VAZ 2106 pump: which is better, faults, replacement and DIY repairs, instructions with photos and videos


This photo report shows in detail how to produce water pump replacement on Russian classic cars VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107.

It is necessary to replace the pump in two cases:

  1. The pump has leaked (a serious case, there is little time to think about it, because it may burst);
  2. The pump hummed (there’s a little more time to think, but not always; the bearing can jam at any moment);

The replacement procedure is of medium complexity. It does not require any special professional skills and takes about 2 hours.

Necessary tools and equipment:

  1. Wrenches for 8, 10, 13, 17, 27, 30;
  2. Flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
  3. Container for draining coolant;
  4. Penetrating lubricant (WD-40);

1

We unscrew the drain plug on the engine block and drain the liquid into a previously prepared container. If you are planning to replace the coolant, then we are looking for a drain plug (or, as in my case, a fan on sensor on the radiator.

2

On the cooling radiator, unscrew it and drain the liquid.

3

We remove the battery. Disconnect the electric fan block.

4

Unscrew the three bolts securing the fan casing to the radiator and pull it out.

5

Using a 17 wrench, loosen (you don’t have to completely unscrew) the generator belt tension nut, loosen the tension and remove the belt.

6

After this, use a 17mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the bracket to the pump and move the bracket to the side.

7

Holding the pump pulley with a screwdriver, unscrew the three mounting bolts. We remove the pulley.

8

Now all that remains is to unscrew the four nuts securing the pump to the engine and remove the pump. After this, clean the pump mounting area from traces of the old gasket and dirt, install a new gasket (after lubricating it with sealant) and install the new pump on the car.

9

We carry out the rest of the assembly in reverse order. When pouring coolant, we forget to put the heating radiator valve control lever in the open position and to “bleed” the system, disconnect the hose from the intake manifold.

Source: https://etlib.ru/report/447-zamena-pompy-na-avtomobilyah-vaz-2101-2107-klassika

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2101 pump repair

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In general, as a result of the above, we try not to delay replacing the pump, and carefully read the article further and decide whether to carry out the replacement ourselves or whether it is better to contact a mechanic...

Now we move on to the next stage - choosing-purchasing a pump and compiling a list of tools that will be needed for the job.

I think that I won’t surprise anyone if I advise you to buy only a VAZ pump!? As always this is the best choice. If, however, it is not possible to buy a VAZ one, then it is difficult to advise anything specific, since at the moment there are quite a few manufacturers of pumps for Zhiguli.

Here it’s up to your taste, pocket and seller’s recommendations.

The only other thing I can add is to check that the gasket is included in the kit, buy a small tube of sealant and do not mess with Fenox (maybe I was unlucky, but the pumps from this manufacturer were often not pleased with their quality).

What else... Yes! Replacing the pump is an excellent reason to replace the coolant in your car. It is worth checking in advance what condition (color, density) the antifreeze or antifreeze is in your car. Remember the last time it was replaced.

Now for the instrument.

To replace the water pump (pump) on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 you will need: open-end wrenches (the presence of socket wrenches is also welcome) wrenches 8, 10, 13, 17, container for draining coolant, screwdriver, wrench 27-30 (in case, instead of the drain plug on the radiator, you have to unscrew the fan switch sensor).

And finally, about the main thing - a description of replacing the pump (water pump) on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Classic, Zhiguli cars:

  • We unscrew the drain plug on the engine block (photo 1) and drain the liquid into a previously prepared container. If you are planning to replace the coolant, then look for the drain plug (or, as in my case, the fan on sensor on the radiator, see photo 2) on the cooling radiator, unscrew it and drain the liquid.


Drain antifreeze or antifreeze from the cylinder block


Draining the coolant from the VAZ-2106 cooling radiator

  • We remove the battery. Disconnect the electric fan block (photo 3). We unscrew the three bolts securing the fan casing (photo 4) to the radiator and pull it out.


Removing the electric fan from a VAZ car


Cooling fan casing VAZ-2105

  • Using a 17 wrench, loosen (you don’t have to completely unscrew) the generator belt tension nut (photo 5), loosen the tension and remove the belt. After this, use a 17mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the bracket to the pump (photo 6) and move the bracket to the side.


VAZ generator belt tension nut


VAZ generator belt tensioning bracket

  • Holding the pump pulley with a screwdriver, unscrew the three mounting bolts (photo 7). We remove the pulley.


Unscrew the VAZ pump pulley

  • Now all that remains is to unscrew the four nuts securing the pump to the engine (photo and remove the pump. After this, clean the place where the pump fits from traces of the old gasket and dirt, install a new gasket (after having lubricated it with sealant) and install the new pump on the car.


Removing the water pump on a VAZ Lada Classic car

We carry out the rest of the assembly in reverse order. When pouring coolant, we forget to put the heating radiator valve control lever in the open position and to “bleed” the system, disconnect the hose (photo 9) from the intake manifold.

Source: https://www.vazzz.ru/remont-pompy-vaz-2101-svoimi-rukami/

Do-it-yourself pump (water pump) replacement

If during operation of the VAZ 2106 engine you hear extraneous noise from the water pump (pump) or a leak appears, then this part must be replaced. In most cases, they make a complete replacement rather than a repair, since the cost of the part is not that high, only about 600 rubles.

So, to perform this repair we will need the following set of tools:

  1. Ratchet small and medium
  2. Heads for 10 and 13
  3. Thin extension
  4. Screwdriver
  5. Open-end or socket wrench 13

You must first remove the alternator belt and completely drain the coolant from the system.

Now below we will analyze in more detail the procedure for removing and installing the pump. First of all, you need to unscrew the clamps securing the coolant supply pipes:

Then disconnect the pipe from the water pump:

Now you need to unscrew the two nuts securing the metal tube on the left side, which supplies antifreeze (antifreeze) to the interior heater system (heater radiator):

And then we remove the tube from the studs, pulling it off with a little force and pulling it to the side, as shown in the photo below:

Then you need to unscrew the three bolts securing the pump to the VAZ 2106 engine block. One of which is located at the very top in the center:

And two bolts also secure the VAZ 2106 water pump from below, this is clearly shown below:

After which you can safely remove the pump out:

If necessary, we buy a new pump and install it in a strictly defined reverse sequence, putting all the removed parts in their places.

Source: https://vaz2106-remont.ru/zamena-pompy-vodyanogo-nasosa-svoimi-rukami/

How to repair a water pump on a VAZ classic with your own hands: tips, instructions

The power unit is, of course, the most important component of any car. But do not forget that the main condition for its uninterrupted operation is high-quality cooling. Therefore, the cooling system plays an important role in the operation of any machine.

In this case, it is worth paying considerable attention to the water pump (that is, the pump), which ensures the circulation of antifreeze in the system.

Drivers often independently repair or replace the pump on a VAZ classic, since these procedures cannot be called complex and time-consuming.

Do-it-yourself pump repair for a VAZ 2107

The water pump, as mentioned above, is designed to provide the necessary pressure in the cooling system, that is, the circulation of liquid throughout the system. The blades of the device rotate, due to which antifreeze is supplied to the engine cylinders and cools them efficiently.

If the pump stops working, antifreeze will not flow to the engine. Accordingly, the engine may overheat, “boil” and jam. The main malfunctions of the pump on the “classic” are:

  • leak through the gasket;
  • leak through the seal;
  • production of bearings.

The pump has a metal casing to guarantee a long service life

Why is a pump needed?

The pump of passenger cars is the “heart” of the cooling system. It is with its help that forced circulation occurs through the pipes, engine jacket, and radiators. The pump provides antifreeze pressure, which cools the engine jacket much faster.

If there were no pump, and the liquid moved randomly inside the system, all work would be disrupted. The antifreeze will begin to boil, the engine will overheat, and this may cause the rings on the pistons to stick.

Pump for VAZ 2106: repair or replacement?

The pump is one of the elements of the cooling system of the VAZ 2106 car, located in the water pump. Its purpose is to force coolant to move throughout the engine cooling system. This part is considered very important, since if it stops working, the cylinder block stops cooling and may jam.

Malfunctions

Any pump can last quite a long time. Its service life directly depends on its operating conditions. Sometimes the damage is minor and can be repaired. For example, you can replace a faulty oil seal or bearing.

However, there are situations when a part cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced. Moreover, replacing the pump on a VAZ 2106 car must be urgent, since if this breakdown is ignored, the engine may overheat and ultimately jam.

As you can already understand, one of the first signs of a pump malfunction is engine overheating. If you feel heat in your legs while driving, you should stop and open the hood. Visually inspect the pump. When the seals wear out, significant coolant leaks will be noticeable on this part.

In such cases, you should immediately go for repairs, stopping periodically and adding water to the radiator. The remaining signs are visual streaks. There can be no more signs of pump failure than current.

Repair

If on your VAZ 2106 this element is subject to repair, then you need to perform the following steps:

  • Drain the coolant from the system.
  • Dismantle the pump by unscrewing the nuts securing it to the housing.
  • Next, you should remove the pump itself.
  • After this part is removed, it will need to be disassembled and the seals removed.
  • Inspect the seals for defects, and if there are any, replace the element with a new one.
  • After this, remove the bearing and inspect it as well. If this too becomes damaged, it must be replaced.

After the replacement, assemble the pump and install it, along with the pump, in its place. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. If, at crankshaft speeds of 2000 - 2500 rpm, obvious leaks are observed on the pump, it must be replaced entirely. If there are no more drips and the VAZ 2106 engine does not heat up, then the work was done correctly.

Conclusion

The procedure for repairing and replacing a pump is quite simple and can be done very easily with your own hands, using a screwdriver and a set of wrenches. So, if you discover such a malfunction, do not rush to pay money to specialists, but try to fix it yourself.

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Source: https://vashalada.ru/mashiny/vaz-2106/pompa-na-vaz-2106.html

Troubleshooting

The following problems are typical for water pumps of classic VAZ models:

  • bearing wear and resulting shaft play;
  • antifreeze leakage through the oil seal;
  • shaft distortion and jamming.


The pump impeller is inserted into a separate housing mounted on the cylinder block.
Almost all pump problems are the result of worn-out bearings. With little wear and play of the shaft, the pump operates normally. As the gaps in the bearing separators increase, the oil seal begins to leak antifreeze, and unnatural noises are heard from the pump installation site when the engine is running - a hum or crackling sound. As a result, the shaft becomes distorted. The further scenario can develop in three ways.

  1. The bearing jams and the belt jumps off the pulleys. The engine continues to run, but the red battery discharge lamp lights up on the dashboard, and the coolant temperature rises sharply to the maximum.
  2. As a result of bearing jamming, the shaft breaks into two parts. As in the first case, when the engine is running, the battery discharge lamp lights up and the maximum coolant temperature is observed.
  3. Due to the skewed shaft, the rotating impeller breaks a hole in the wall of the pump housing, through which all the antifreeze comes out within a few seconds, and the engine instantly overheats. In this case, you will have to change not only the pump, but also the housing in which the impeller broke the wall.


As a result of bearing wear and misalignment, the pump shaft may break.
Unlike front-wheel drive VAZ models, where the pump is hidden under the timing cover, in the “classic” it is in plain sight. Therefore, it is much easier to avoid unpleasant consequences. You only need to periodically check the pump as follows.

  1. Start the engine, open the hood and listen. If there are suspicious noises from the front of the engine, manually press the accelerator and increase the speed until the hum becomes clearly audible.
  2. Carefully inspect the front of the engine for coolant leaks.
  3. If you find traces of leaking antifreeze, grab the pump pulley with your hand and shake it along the shaft axis in order to detect any play.
  4. If you feel a slight play when the belt is tensioned or you doubt the diagnostic result, unscrew the nut securing the generator to the adjusting bracket and loosen the belt. After this, pump the pump pulley again.


The nut keeps the belt taut

Due to the considerable age of these cars, the “native” plant no longer produces original spare parts for them. Commercially available parts rarely last more than 50 thousand kilometers. You should focus on this figure when servicing your car, which will help you detect a malfunction in time.

If you notice a slight play, you should not immediately start replacing the water pump. It will still “live” for 3-5 thousand kilometers. However, its condition will have to be constantly monitored and a new pump will have to be purchased in advance.

If there is any leakage of antifreeze, noticeable play in the shaft, and a cracking sound is heard during operation, the pump should be immediately replaced with a new one.

Replacing the pump on a VAZ with your own hands | VAZ lovers club

The main feature of domestic Zhiguli cars is that their cooling system consists of water pumps and pumps. The pumps of these machines have always been very reliable and durable, but still, over time, they were expected to break down. But the water pump failed only in two cases.

Water pump breakdowns

The first case is a leaking pump. This malfunction is immediately noticeable. Water or coolant leaks appear on the housing, which indicate a problem. The main thing is not to hesitate in solving it and to replace the pump as quickly as possible.

Otherwise, a few drops of coolant on the body can turn into a small trickle within an hour, and in a few minutes the system can lose the entire coolant. Under such conditions, not only can the pump burn out, but real problems can also begin with other parts of the motor due to significant overheating.

Therefore, replacement must be carried out immediately at the first sign of a leak.

The second problem is related to the appearance of unpleasant noise. This hum indicates that it is time to change your water pump bearings.

When it appears, you can drive for a while, but until the bearings are completely worn out, after which the pump will completely fail and leak due to excess pressure.

It is impossible to say for sure how long it will take for the noise to appear; it will depend on the general condition of the cooling system, the model and durability of the pump. It can last for just a few minutes and continue to work for several months; it is quite difficult to give an accurate forecast.

But you should not delay and conduct experiments, checking how much it will be enough, because this can lead to failure of the entire system and, according to the law of meanness, this will happen at the most inopportune moment.

The pump will definitely become unusable and replacing it cannot be avoided, so don’t hesitate.

A breakdown of the pump or cooling system will require you to shell out a lot of money, but if the engine overheats, these costs will increase several times, so it is better to take care of repairs in a timely manner.

This is a good enough reason not to put the problem off for a long time, but to immediately resolve this issue on your own or by contacting a car service, before one minor breakdown leads to the failure of more important systems, the repair of which will cost much more. But how to choose a high-quality pump and replace the water pump without turning to specialists for help.

Replacing the pump on a VAZ

In order not to make a mistake in choosing, you need to purchase a native VAZ pump. This will be the most ideal option not only in terms of costs, but also in terms of the reliability and durability of such a pump. If you couldn’t find a suitable option, you can listen to the advice of professionals or rely on your taste and choose the most optimal pump, since many options are suitable for a car of this brand.

To make your choice easier, you can rely on financial capabilities or recommendations from friends or acquaintances. They can recommend a good store with competent salespeople who can help you choose quality products. It is important that the kit includes more than one pump, as well as a tube of sealant and gaskets. But it happens that you have to buy sealant separately.

When changing the pump, you need to remember about replacing the cooler. There should always be enough of it. When installing a new pump, it is better to use new coolant and not skimp on its quantity.

Its durability will depend on this.

The quality of the antifreeze is of great importance, and if it was replaced a long time ago, then it is better to spend the money and buy a new cooler, completely replacing it in the system.

In order to replace the pump on VAZ 2101-2107 models, you will need several required tools. Open-end, box and socket wrenches for 8,10, 13 and 17 millimeters.

For used coolant that will need to be drained, prepare bottles or a bowl to avoid spilling this environmentally harmful solution on the ground.

If you replace a regular plug with a sensor that detects the inclusion of a fan at the radiator outlet, you will need a 27-30 wrench.

When all the tools are ready, you can begin directly replacing the pump. In this process, the order of actions is important, so do not rush.

Pump replacement steps

First of all, you need to unscrew the drain plug located on the engine block. All old coolant is drained into a pre-prepared container. If the cooler needs to be replaced completely, you first need to find the drain plug, on the sensor of which there is a button that turns on the cooling fan. Once the drain has been found, you can empty it of liquid.

Next, the battery is disconnected from the terminals and pulled out. In order to disconnect the fan from the battery, you need to unscrew the bolts that hold the fan to the casing and remove it.

After this, you should loosen the generator belt. Using a 17mm wrench, loosen the nut holding the generator shaft slightly and disconnect the belt from the generator shaft. To do this, it is not necessary to unscrew the nut completely.

Using the same 17 key, unscrew the bracket adjacent to the pump, which is connected by a bolt. After this, the bracket is moved to the side and the three fastening bolts are unscrewed, holding the pump pulley with a screwdriver.

  • Next, unscrew the pulley itself.
  • In order to remove the pump from the engine, you need to unscrew the four nuts located on top and disconnect the parts.
  • The place of the old pump is cleaned of traces of the previous gasket so that the new part is installed in a clean place.
  • After preparing the surface, a new gasket is installed, pre-coated with sealant.
  • When everything is ready to install the new pump, all that remains is to secure it by performing all the above steps in reverse order.

After completing the installation, coolant must be poured into the system. Regardless of whether an old or new cooler is used for this, the tap must be open to effectively fill the system.

In order for air to escape from the system, it is necessary to disconnect the hose from the intake manifold, remembering to return it to its initial position upon completion of the process.

Since the liquid expands when heated, make sure that there is free space in the expansion tank.

By following these rules, replacing the pump will not cause any problems and you will not have to spend money on car service services.

Source: https://ourvaz.ru/instrukcii/zamena-pompyi-na-vaz-svoimi-rukami.html

Is it possible to eliminate a pump leak on the way?

The loss of some antifreeze on the road is indicated by an increase in coolant temperature and a decrease in the level in the expansion tank. If you find a leak and are sure that the pump is at fault, you can try to fix the problem. Faults that cause antifreeze leaks are as follows:

  • the joint between the pump flanges and the cylinder block has lost its tightness, antifreeze is leaking from under the gasket;
  • a crack has formed in the pump housing;
  • the housing was destroyed by the impact of the impeller.

A wedge is inserted into the hole in the housing from the front and covered with cold welding

Generally, water pump leakage problems are critical and difficult to resolve in the process. Try to compress the leaking gasket by tightening the 4 pump mounting nuts, which will require you to remove the alternator drive belt and pulley. Don't overdo it: it's easy to break the threads on Ø8 mm studs.

Try to seal a small crack with a chemical compound - cold welding. If possible, tie the patch to your body with something to prevent it from falling, add water and go to the garage. It will not be possible to close the large gap from the impeller; you need to look for an option to tow the car or call a tow truck.

Video: repairing a hull crack

From a financial point of view, rebuilding the pump is more profitable than completely replacing it, since it saves about 50% of the cost of a new part. Considering how often minor breakdowns occur on Zhiguli cars, this difference in price plays a role. The technology for replacing the bearing and oil seal on the VAZ 2101 water pump is also suitable for other cars equipped with a classic engine: VAZ 2121 Niva and its modifications, Niva-Chevrolet.”

How to check the water pump on a car without removing the water pump

The water pump (water pump) of the engine cooling system is an important component that ensures constant circulation of coolant through the channels of the cooling jacket, pipes, lines, cooling radiator, etc. Even a slight decrease in the performance of a car pump can cause the engine to overheat, especially in the warm season.

Another reason to check whether the pump is working or not is possible extraneous noise in the water pump drive. In this case, the specified pump requires increased attention on some car models.

The fact is that the pump can be driven by the timing belt. If the water pump jams, then the timing belt breaks, resulting in valve bending on most engines.

Next, we will look at the available methods that allow you to check the water pump yourself.

How to check the serviceability of the pump on a car

Timely diagnostics of the pump allows you to avoid costly repairs or problems with constant overheating of the engine. To answer the question of how to check the pump’s performance yourself, let’s consider diagnostic methods using the example of domestic VAZ cars (model 2109, 2110).

Let's start with the fact that the pump is a kind of “consumable”, which on cars with a pump driven by a timing belt is recommended to be changed every 60 thousand kilometers traveled or 48 months, whichever comes first. These are the regulatory requirements of many automakers.

As practice shows, a high-quality pump on average lasts about 100 thousand km. For this reason, drivers usually do not change the water pump immediately (if there are no visible reasons for replacement), but in parallel with the second replacement of the timing belt (after 100-110 thousand km), trying to combine the replacement of the pump with the replacement of antifreeze.

In simple words, a good pump lasts as long as two timing belts last. It is also worth adding that using spare parts or low-quality antifreeze, mixing different types of coolant, etc. can lead to pump failure ahead of schedule. For this reason, it is advisable to check the pump regularly.

How to check the pump's operation

You should check the water pump on your car using a common method. For diagnostics on a VAZ and a large number of other cars, the engine should be warmed up until it reaches operating temperatures.

  • After warming up, you need to hand pinch the upper pipe coming from the radiator. If the pump is working properly, then the coolant pressure created by the pump will be felt. This is the main answer to the question of how to check whether the pump is working or not without removing the pump from the car. During such a check, care must be taken, since the coolant in the system gets very hot. If the fluid pulsation is weak or absent, then you should proceed to a detailed inspection.
  • To check, you need to remove the protective casing of the gas distribution mechanism, which will allow for a visual inspection. If the rubber seal (pump seal) in the area of ​​the seat begins to leak, then drips of antifreeze or antifreeze will be visible. Also, leakage and problems with the pump will be indicated by deposits around the seat, which may have a reddish-brown or grayish color. If they are present, you need to drain the antifreeze and remove the pump for troubleshooting and replacement.
  • If engine operation is accompanied by a characteristic “howling” sound, then the problem may be in the pump bearing. In this case, the pump is checked for play in the shaft area. To check by hand, you can rock the pump drive gear. In some cases, you can replace the worn bearing or immediately install a new pump.
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