Steering shaft LADA Granta / VAZ 2190 from 2011

Cross design

The mechanism of the steering shaft crosspiece performs a transport-guiding function and is designed to transmit the torque of the wheel to the gear of the rack and pinion assembly. The transmission of torque is carried out by the steering shaft cardan, to which the crosspiece is attached. In many models of modern cars, the crosspiece performs the same function and has a similar shape. The cross itself consists of four identical protrusions, each of which is equipped with needle-type bearings. All elements of the cross are made of high-strength steel and must withstand high loads.

Diagnostics, repair and reassembly

Before determining why there is a knock in the steering, you should completely disassemble the rack and carry out diagnostics for wear, destruction of components and connections. Disassembly is carried out in this order. Secure the steering rack in a vice, having previously installed spacers made of soft metal or other material. Unscrew the nut securing the mechanism crankcase pipe. The crankcase tube is removed. Remove the clamps securing the pipe bushings and remove them.

Unscrew the adjusting nut. Here you need to use a special 24mm wrench, which has external edges for unscrewing. Sequentially remove the rack stop spring, the sealing ring and the rack stop. Remove the crankcase cover. After removing the bearing cage and sealing ring, remove the rack. The second element of the steering mechanism pair - the gear shaft - is dismantled.

Now you can diagnose the condition of the bearings and sealing rings. After thorough cleaning, the wear of the gear sectors and the condition of the surface of the rack and shaft are assessed. After all, this is where the reason lies that causes the knocking that appears. If necessary, select the necessary parts and replace them.

Before reassembly, all critical connections are lubricated with a special compound. Very often, it is the insufficient amount of lubricant that leads to rapid wear of loaded parts, which violates the previously established clearance. Therefore, even a recently installed rack knocks again.

Assembling the steering mechanism is carried out in the reverse order. For correct and easy installation of dismantled bearings, you should select the required diameter of pipe cutting, which will help to correctly install the bearings in place. The assembled steering mechanism must be adjusted, since the size of the gap can also determine whether a knock will appear after reinstallation.

Signs of wear on the crosspiece

Often, motorists do not pay attention to insignificant signs that it is time to make repairs, and wait until the problem makes itself known publicly and this is fraught with consequences, especially when it comes to loss of vehicle controllability.

The first signs of wear on the crosspiece appear as:

• the presence of noticeable resistance to the steering wheel when rotating at speeds above 80 km/h;
• delayed wheel turning and loss of sensitivity (delayed response of wheels and steering shaft);
• increased free play angle of the wheels (popularly this symptom is also called “Steering play”);
• uneven rotation of the steering wheel, the steering wheel moves with sharp jerks;
• obvious grinding or knocking noise that occurs when the steering wheel is rotated; the grinding becomes especially noticeable and obvious on an uneven road.

Most often, motorists turn to a car service center to replace the steering shaft crosspiece mechanism only when the last sign of a malfunction appears, but in vain, because in the event of an emergency, the steering control will not be able to adequately respond to the driver’s efforts, and sometimes, the steering control may even fail, this is already fraught with very big troubles.

Repair of the shaft cross is carried out every 50 - 100 thousand, it is better more often, otherwise it will have to be completely replaced with a new one.

To replace, you will need to purchase a crosspiece - on average 150-300 rubles, some car services claim that for the steering to work correctly, you need the entire steering shaft (4 - 7 thousand rubles), but on most cars it is enough to change only the crosspiece.

Self-replacement procedure for the steering shaft crosspiece

The replacement takes place in several stages:

1. We lift the car off the ground using a lift or by rolling it into a hole, but you can also get by by lifting the front of the car.
2. We set the steering wheel at a right angle and fix it, and also fix the steering wheel; during replacement, movement of the wheels and steering wheel is not desirable.
3. To access the steering shaft, remove the left (right) wheel. We go into the salon and unscrew the fastening bolt; after a slight effort, the steering shaft should come off the steering wheel.
4. Under the car, carefully remove the upper and lower casings, check the amount of dirt on the crosspiece and steering shaft driveshaft; not all cars have them protected by a boot (purchase and installation of such rubber will cost 100-200 rubles).
5. We find and unscrew the bolt on the crosspiece; you may have to use a WD tool. Once the bolt is removed, the steering shaft should easily come off the steering rack.
6. Pull the shaft down and pull it out. Often the crosspiece mechanism is rusty and dirty; first of all, you will need to wash it.
7. For flaring you will need a sprocket of the appropriate diameter; fix the shaft in a vice.
8. Using a head (presumably a 8-pointer), we knock out the cross first in one direction (remove the bearing cup), and in the other direction (also remove the cup).
9. Then we take a new crosspiece and insert it in the same order - we start one side first, and then the other, press it in using a vice (but not too tightly, the metal may wrinkle).
10. We align both cups and roll them with a chisel and hammer.

The final assembly procedure is no different from disassembly - the main thing is to maintain order. So, we have replaced the steering shaft crosspiece; if everything is done correctly, the handling will respond better to your efforts.

The steering crosspiece is the key to the control of the car; it is responsible for transmitting the rotation of the wheel to the rack and pinion assembly through the steering shaft cardan (the crosspiece itself is attached to it). Not just the ease of driving, but the safety and health of all passengers depends on its correct functioning. If the car has been in use for more than 100 thousand kilometers, it most likely needs repairs; it is worth studying in advance the question of when and how to change the crosspiece on the steering cardan.

Steering components Lada Granta, Kalina

Steering of Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190 cars with electric booster and tilt-adjustable steering column.
The steering wheel is mounted on the splines of the steering shaft and secured with a self-locking nut. On vehicles equipped with a driver's airbag, an airbag module is installed in the steering wheel instead of a pad.

The steering shaft is composite. It consists of an upper and intermediate shaft. The upper shaft rotates in two bearings pressed into the steering column tube.

An ignition switch with an anti-theft device is installed on the top of the column pipe. The intermediate shaft is collapsible and has two cardan joints at the ends.

The Lada Granta/Kalina steering column is assembled with a gear motor and an electric power steering control unit. The efficiency of the electric booster depends on the speed of the vehicle.

The electric booster only works when the engine is on. The steering column brackets are attached to the body on four studs with self-locking nuts. The brackets are pivotally connected to the steering column pipe.

The upper bracket is equipped with a steering column fixation mechanism. By moving the locking lever to the lower position, you can change the angle of the steering column. When the lever is raised, the column is fixed in the selected position.

The steering mechanism of the Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190 is rack-and-pinion type, consisting of a crankcase, a drive gear and a rack in gearing. The mechanism is secured to the partition of the engine compartment with two brackets on rubber supports.

When the steering wheel is turned, rotation is transmitted through the upper and intermediate shafts of the steering column to the drive gear, which, when turning, moves the rack.

Steering rods, which consist of the rods themselves, tips and adjusting bushings, are bolted to the Lada Granta/Kalina steering rack. At the inner ends of the steering rods there are eyes with rubber-metal bushings pressed into them.

Ball pins are installed in the outer rod ends, with which the steering rods are connected to the swing arms of the front suspension struts. When the rack moves, the rods rotate the front suspension struts.

The length of the tie rods can be changed by rotating the adjusting bushings and thereby changing the toe-in of the front wheels. The bushings are secured against spontaneous rotation by tightening bolts wrapped in the flanges of the tie rod ends.

Fig.32. Steering Lada Granta/Kalina

1 — tie rod end; 2 — adjusting sleeve; 3, 6 — brackets for fastening the steering mechanism; 4, 5 tie rods; 7 right protective cap; 8 — right steering gear support; 9 — protective cover of the steering mechanism; 10 — steering mechanism; 11 - seal; 12 — intermediate shaft with lower universal joint; 13 — upper universal joint; 14 — steering column with electric power steering; 15 — steering wheel; 16 — contact ring; 17 — steering wheel fastening nut; 18 — steering wheel pad (driver airbag); 19 steering shaft bearings; 20 left protective cap; 21 left steering gear support

Checking the steering of Lada Granta/Kalina

Visually check the condition of the protective covers of the tie rod ends and steering mechanism. Damaged covers (torn, cracked) must be replaced.

Make sure that the steering column locking lever is raised all the way. Trying to move the steering wheel in a vertical plane, we check that the steering column is securely fastened with the locking mechanism.

If the steering column of the Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190 moves, remove the steering column lining and use a 13 mm wrench to tighten the nut of the steering column fixing lever axis.

Trying to move the steering wheel along the axis of the steering shaft, we make sure that there is no play in the steering wheel on the splines of the shaft and shaft in the steering column.

To check the play in the steering, turn the steering wheel to the position corresponding to straight forward movement. We place a slotted screwdriver on the instrument panel so that its blade is located next to the rim of the steering wheel (for reliability, it can be secured with masking tape).

Turning the steering wheel to the right until the wheels begin to turn (selecting play), and then to the left and using the blade of a screwdriver as a guide, use chalk, pieces of wire, or otherwise mark these positions on the rim. The play should not be more than 5″ (or 18 mm) when measured along the outside of the rim.

Increased play indicates the need to troubleshoot and fix the problem. As a rule, the tie rod ends in the Lada Granta/Kalina steering system are the first to fail.

To check that there is no play in the tie rod ends, an assistant slightly rocks the steering wheel from side to side. We place our hand at the junction of the steering rod with the swing arm of the suspension strut so that the palm touches them at the same time.

When play appears in the tie rod end, a displacement of the steering arm relative to the rod will be felt. Check the tightness of the nuts on the steering column universal joint bolts. We repeat the check on the other side of the car. We replace faulty hinges.

When rocking the steering wheel from side to side, listen to the operation of the steering mechanism. A knocking sound from the right edge of the steering gear indicates wear of the support sleeve. We remove the faulty steering mechanism and repair or replace it.

Turn on the ignition - the electric power steering fault indicator light on the instrument panel should light up. Let's start the engine.

The warning light should go out and the steering wheel should turn easily with one hand. If the lamp lights up while the engine is running, it indicates a malfunction of the electric amplifier and the need for repair.

Replacing the steering column of Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190

Depending on the purpose of the work, the steering column can be removed as an assembly with the steering wheel and steering column switches. The operation is described with partial disassembly of the steering column.

— Turn the steering wheel to the position corresponding to straight movement. Removing the steering wheel

— Remove the decorative lining of the steering column.

— Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws and remove the lower trim of the instrument panel.

— Disconnect the wiring harness blocks from the steering column switches and the slip ring.

— Loosen the coupling bolt and remove the connector assembly with the steering column switches and the slip ring.

— Disconnect the ignition switch wiring harness connectors.

— By releasing the clamps, we disconnect the two wiring harness blocks from the electric power steering of the Lada Granta/Kalina.

— You can remove the steering column complete with the intermediate shaft. However, it is more convenient to remove and install the steering column if you disconnect the intermediate shaft.

— The connection of the intermediate shaft universal joint flanges is possible only in one position, so you don’t have to mark their relative position.

— Unscrew the nut of the coupling bolt connecting the universal joints of the intermediate shaft. We remove the bolt.

— Loosen the tightening of the two nuts of the lower mounting of the Lada Granta/Kalina steering column.

— Using the same wrench, unscrew the two nuts of the upper mounting of the steering column.

— Remove the steering column assembly.

— Unscrew the nut of the coupling bolt of the flange of the lower cardan joint of the intermediate shaft. We remove the bolt.

— Using a slotted screwdriver, we open the flange and remove the cardan joint from the splines of the steering rack mechanism shaft of the Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190.

How do you know when it's time to change the driveshaft?

Signs of its malfunction are noticeable, but have little effect on the quality of movement, which is why many car owners ignore the problem until the last moment, almost to the point of losing control of the car. You should not ignore signs of a malfunction; if at least two appear at once, you need to immediately carry out diagnostics. What are the signs of wear or breakage?

• When driving at a speed of more than 80 km/h, the steering wheel resists when turning, making it more difficult to turn.
• The steering wheel turns unevenly and jerks when turning, which puts additional stress on the hands.
• The steering wheel has become less sensitive, and the turning of the wheels responds to control late.
• The appearance of noticeable play (free movement of wheels with stable fixation of the steering wheel).
• Vibration of the driveshaft. Check with a tachometer to see if this vibration appears at one speed or at different speeds. Only vibration at different speeds indicates problems with the cardan; if it occurs at different speeds, but at the same frequency, then you need to think about how to change the steering cardan on a grant, because the speed of the cardan was different at that time.
• Knocking and grinding noises in the steering wheel, especially when driving on rough roads.

Power steering and power steering: do-it-yourself installation

The electric booster first appeared on Kalina, then on Grant and on the new Priora. You can drive a car without an ESD. But if a car owner previously owned a car equipped with a hydraulic or electric booster, then, at a minimum, he will experience great inconvenience. On the Lada Granta in the minimum configuration, the manufacturer does not install electric power steering, so many owners of such cars decide to install the power steering themselves. This procedure is not the easiest, and the unit is not cheap. But its presence means a comfortable ride, maneuverability and safety.

Installation does not require any special knowledge or skills; minimal experience and a set of tools are sufficient. If, nevertheless, the question arose about installing electric power steering on the Lada Granta, then when purchasing an electric power steering unit, you should pay attention to its number.

The set of numbers contains a definition of the place of production, these are the last two digits:

• 00 – made in Makhachkala (not the highest quality, has many negative reviews);
• 04 – Korean amplifier, you can buy it in a store, a rare copy at auto wrecking yards;
• 02 – made in Kaluga, a good medium option.

To install the amplifier you will need a set of wrenches, screwdrivers and an angle grinder (grinder). Before proceeding with installation, the steering wheel, all steering column switches, the ignition switch, and the steering column with cardan must be removed. The further algorithm of actions is as follows.

1. Knock out the bolts from the removed bracket in the form of a plate and cut off about 3 cm from the top with a grinder.
2. Drill holes in the plate to mount the electric amplifier.
3. Fix the cardan to the EUR.
4. Place washers under the bracket (where the electric booster is mounted), and you can use them to adjust the steering wheel.
5. Attach the electric booster, and then install the cardan into the rack.

How to change the steering cardan

• It is better to roll the car into a pit (at least raise it in front of the car).
• Fix the steering wheel and steering wheel at a right angle. You should also not move or touch the wheels during repairs.
• Remove the front wheel, then unscrew the mounting bolt through the interior. If all operations are carried out correctly, the shaft should come off the steering wheel on its own.
• Remove both casings (top and bottom), make sure there is a boot on the steering shaft. If it is not there, it is better to install it after repair; the part costs no more than 200 rubles.
• Unscrew the bolt on the crosspiece, then the shaft will come off the steering rack on its own.
• Pull down and pull out the shaft. Before repairing, it is better to wash it from dirt and rust; it also affects the quality of movement.
• Secure the shaft in a vice. When it is secured, take the head and knock out the cross on one side to remove the bearing cup. Repeat the same action from the other end.
• Insert a new cross in the same order (one at a time on each side).
• Press in a new crosspiece with a vice (do not overpress).
• Align the cups and roll them with a hammer and chisel.
• Install the new part on the car in reverse order.

Many car owners note when they are looking for where and how to change the steering joint on a Toyota that steering crosspieces from the VAZ-2015 are very suitable for this brand. This greatly simplifies the process of finding parts and reduces the overall cost of repairs.

Rack and pinion steering

If we talk in general about the steering mechanism of the Lada Grant, then the following are its main characteristics and features.

1. The steering column provides the ability to adjust the tilt of the steering wheel. And the steering wheel itself can be locked by installing an anti-rotation device connected to the ignition switch.
2. The steering mechanism is of a rack and pinion type, where it is possible to change the gear ratio in different operating modes.
3. The mechanism is mainly equipped with electric power steering.
4. The electric amplifier is equipped with a unit that allows you to independently diagnose the technical condition of the device, and, if necessary, exclude the amplifier from operation.

The schematic diagram of the Lada Granta steering device is quite simple. The rack-and-pinion type mechanism is fixed in the engine compartment on a special shield through rubber supports. Reliability of fastening is ensured by bolts welded to the body. Steering drive is provided through two separate tie rods, which interact with the steering arms of the front wheel struts.

Reliability of engagement of the gear pair on one side is ensured by a special gap set at the factory. On the other hand, the precision of engagement is maintained by a spring stop, which presses the rack itself against the gear teeth.

The above gap under normal conditions is 0.1 mm, but during operation it may be violated due to wear of individual parts. Thus, one of the main reasons why an extraneous knock appeared in the steering mechanism is a violation of the set gear clearance. It should be noted that there are other malfunctions that can lead to an unpleasant knocking sound in the car:

• loosening of the steering rack itself on the mounting bolts;
• loosening of the tie rod ball joint;
• wear or destruction of mechanical transmission teeth.

Why might the driveshaft break?

The most common reason is constant use of the car on uneven roads, driving over potholes and ruts. During such shaking, a large load falls on this moving part.

The second reason may be oil leakage due to a leaking oil seal. Because of the oil, the sealing ring https://podshipnik-mo.ru/koltsa-uplotnitelnyye hardens, and a gap appears between the oil seal and the rod. Or the mirror on the driveshaft connection is broken, and various roughness and burrs appear on the rod. In this case, the splines will have to be changed or sanded (but this is a temporary remedy).

We noticed that when driving on uneven roads (for example, gravel), vibration is strongly transmitted to the steering wheel. It is also possible that a knock may occur, but it is not the steering rack that is rattling. The cause of the rattling may be play in the steering shaft. It is proposed to solve the problem with the help of a simple modification, which was used on VAZ 2108-15 cars.

Knocking and rattling noises appear due to gaps in the mating parts. To eliminate them, insert a rubber cube (dimensions 22x22x22 mm) into the universal joint of the intermediate steering shaft. It is cut out from the rubber bumper of the rear suspension of the “classic”.

To install the rubber part into the steering shaft, you don’t need to remove anything, just crawl under the panel and look for the connection above the brake pedal. To fit the cube into a narrow space, you will need to lubricate it (for example, WD-40) and use a clamp or jack.

For owners of Lada Granta and Kalina models with ESD, there is an alternative to this modification - install a steering driveshaft without knocking (catalog numbers: 11186-3422092-00, 21230-3401085-00). Let us remind you that in some cases the causes of knocking can be eliminated by tightening the steering rack or steering shaft bolt. Have you encountered such a modification? What effect did you feel after installing the rubber cube?

Steering of Lada Granta

It is designed to control the car while driving. Structurally, it consists of the following main elements:

The work of the mechanical part is that the driver acts on the steering wheel, the impulse through the steering mechanism and rack transmits force to the front wheels through the levers, and the car turns in the desired direction. A characteristic feature of a passenger car steering wheel is its smaller diameter (compared to a truck). The design of the mechanism also differs. The steering of the Lada Granta is complemented by an electric booster. The steering wheel can be adjusted in height. Unfortunately, there are no settings for departure.

The steering mechanism of the Lada Granta is rack-and-pinion type, the simplest and most inexpensive option.

The drive is mechanical, structurally consisting of levers, rods and hinges. For more efficient and convenient control, the Lada Granta is equipped with an electric amplifier. This is a complex mechanism that provides force through the use of electricity. An electric power steering, or simply EPS, is used to improve dynamic characteristics and controllability. And, according to some data, it allows you to save fuel by increasing the vehicle’s maneuverability.