Front wheel drives LADA Granta / VAZ 2190 from 2011

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Recommendations

  1. As a rule, the clutch “disappears” when the clutch fork breaks or the cable breaks. In such a situation, you can drive your car to the service center without using the clutch pedal. To do this, turn off the engine, engage first gear, then start with the gear engaged. To upshift, you need to re-gear, and to downshift, you need to wait until the engine speed drops to suitable values.
  • If the Grant clutch is being replaced, the gearbox or engine is being removed, experienced car enthusiasts recommend replacing the clutch cable if the cable has traveled more than 30-40 thousand km. Also on the Granta, clutch adjustment and inspection are necessary if even minor problems appear with the clutch pedal or difficulties with gear shifting.

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Downloading a book

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Features of the Granta front suspension

The front suspension is independent, which means that when one of the front wheels falls into a hole, the second one maintains its position. So that when driving on a flat road, both wheels are in the same plane and rotate evenly and parallel to each other, a stabilizer is installed between them. On the front part of the Granta suspension system, the mounting bearing is installed between the shock absorber spring and the body support. As a result, the weight of the machine is completely concentrated on it and keeps it in a compressed position. With this design, the backlash is reduced to zero - extraneous noise disappears.

The independent circuit consists of hydraulic shock absorbers and two wishbones, which are complemented by anti-roll bars. To strengthen the levers, so-called extensions of the upper supports of the front struts are used. They are not installed from the factory, so car owners are forced to install them themselves. The spring has a conical shape, a hydraulic shock absorber is located inside, the pitch of the coils is variable.

The lower part of the rack rests on the steering knuckle. The front suspension is designed in such a way that when the steering wheel rotates, the wheels are turned by the steering knuckle, and the spring and shock absorber turn with them. In this case, the stand of the latter remains in a stationary position. Thanks to this feature, it is possible to increase the service life of shock absorbers.

The designers modernized the block of front strut supports, which made it possible to increase their strength and eliminate squeaks, vibrations and rattling. The anti-roll bar remains unchanged. It is made of hardened steel, attached to the lower arms on the right and left, and rigidly attached to the body in the middle.

Another feature of the updated chassis of the Lada Granta is the increased castor. This is the angle of rotation of the steering wheels, which on Grant is 2° 45`. This solution has both advantages and disadvantages. On the one hand, handling improves; at high speed the car shows a higher level of directional stability. On the other hand, it takes a little more effort to rotate the steering wheel. The steering has also been updated:

  • the installed electric power steering has a greater compensating effect;
  • a steering rack with a lower gear ratio (short) is used.

The updates have significantly improved the car's handling at different speeds. The steering wheel has become more sensitive, and the number of its revolutions to the full angle of rotation of the steered wheels has decreased due to the short steering rack.

The owners were outraged by the return to using the standard suspension system from Kalina. The steering angle remains the same and no power steering is used. However, this is observed only in minimal configurations.

Problems when paying with bank cards

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Removing the left front wheel drive (outer CV joint) Lada Granta

Tools:

  • Ratchet wrench
  • Extension
  • 8 mm head
  • 10 mm head
  • Jack or ditch lift
  • Stand - 2 pcs.
  • Wheel key
  • Medium flat screwdriver
  • Hammer medium
  • Kerner
  • Driver for socket attachment
  • 30mm wrench attachment
  • Torx wrench attachment E12
  • Large flat screwdriver or spatula
  • 17 mm straight box spanner
  • Metal brush
  • Funnel
  • Hose

Parts and consumables:

  • Technical capacity
  • Transmission oil
  • Aerosol lubricant type WD-40
  • Wood block
  • Rags
  • Left front wheel drive (replacement if necessary)
  • Boot of the outer drive joint (replacement if necessary)
  • Boot of the internal drive joint (replacement if necessary)
  • Inner joint shank retaining ring
  • Grease

Notes:

Front wheel drives (CV joints) are often sold complete with boots and a retaining ring.

Carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

We carry out work to replace the external and internal joints of wheel drives, their dirt-proof covers, drive seals, as well as when dismantling the gearbox or power unit.

1. Remove the middle mudguard from the engine compartment.

2. Drain the gearbox oil.

3. Lift the front of the car from the left side and remove the wheel.

4. Unscrew the left front wheel hub bearing nut.

5. Remove the two screws securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.

Note:

Turn the steering wheel to the extreme right position so that the steering rod output is at its maximum value. This will allow the outer joint housing shank to be removed from the wheel hub without disconnecting the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.

6. Using a mounting blade or a large screwdriver, remove the hub from the ball and at the same time from the CV joint.

7. Remove the boot from the CV joint and remove all possible grease so that there is less dirt.

8. Knock out the “grenade” with a hammer.

9. Insert a spudger or large screwdriver between the inner drive joint housing and the clutch housing and push the joint housing shank out of the drive gear spline.

Note:

Do not damage the protective ring of the drive oil seal located on the inner joint housing.

10. Remove the left drive.

Note:

When removing both drives, after dismantling the first one, it is necessary to insert a clamp, for example, a wooden or soft metal roller with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 150 mm, into the hole of the drive gear. Otherwise, the differential drive gears may become misaligned and the drives may not be able to be installed.

11. Before installing the drive, use a screwdriver to pry up the retaining ring of the inner joint housing shank, which secures the drive in the gearbox.

12. Remove the retaining ring.

13. Install a new ring into the groove of the inner joint housing shank.

Note:

Reuse of retaining rings is not permitted.

14. Before installing the drive, center the retaining ring in the shank groove using grease.

15. Insert the splined shank of the outer joint housing into the hole in the wheel hub, install the washer and tighten (do not tighten) the hub bearing nut.

16. Carry out further assembly in reverse order.

The article is missing:

  • Photo of the instrument
  • Photos of parts and consumables
  • High-quality photos of repairs

Source: carpedia.club

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