Hi all! Another experiment has come to an end. Last winter, I experimented with removing the gearshift lever linkage. www.drive2.ru/l/4751686/ The reason for this was excessive vibrations on the gearshift lever and clearly audible transmission noises.
The effect of removing the thrust was not bad, the lever dangled a little more when the engine jerked, but at the same time the shifts remained almost as clear as with jet thrust, vibrations were slightly reduced and these same noises completely disappeared. For half a year of such operation, the transmission has never been knocked out. In a word, everything was wonderful until summer came. In the cold season, the rubber on the engine mounts became dull and everything was fine, but in the summer, in the heat, the rubber on the engine mounts becomes much softer and the vibrations of the engine, and with it the gearshift lever, increase.
I decided to return the jet thrust back. In order not to saw or cook the old rod, I decided to buy a new one. Finding it turned out to be not so easy, the sellers looked at me like I was an idiot, like how did you break it?! They offered the assembled drawstring for 750 rubles, but naturally I didn’t want to overpay. As a result, I had to order, and a week later the cherished stick arrived. It cost 200 rubles.
How to remove the VAZ-2110 gearbox shift drive
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We remove the shift drive when repairing it and dismantling the gearbox.
We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or a lift.
1. Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the buffer bracket
2. and remove the bracket.
3. Using a socket and a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the torque rod to the race of the ball joint of the gear shift drive.
4. We move the jet thrust down.
5. Using two 13mm wrenches, loosen the coupling bolt of the torque clamp and move the clamp back.
6. Remove jet thrust.
7. If it is necessary to replace the thrust damper, use a “13” wrench to unscrew the nut securing the eyelet
8. Remove the eyelet with the damper.
9. The jet thrust damper can be replaced without removing the thrust itself. To do this, loosen the linkage clamp, and then use a 13mm wrench to unscrew the two bolts securing the damper bracket to the gearbox housing.
10. Remove the bracket with the damper, removing the splined shank of the eye from the hole in the rod.
Why do you need a gearbox slide?
In fact, most often the gearbox is in good condition, but the rocker may fail.
The drawstring is assembled.
You can replace the unit with a new one, or you can get by with proper adjustment of the rocker. Adjusting this element will help troubleshoot problems and make sure that the problem is related specifically to the gearbox linkage. It happens that a car owner simply begins to change one component after another without understanding the problem, wasting money and time to no avail.
The gearbox itself is designed to prevent gears from switching spontaneously . It happens that due to incorrect or erroneous adjustments, the entire transmission system begins to work incorrectly and may even fail. Therefore, you need to be able to adjust the gearbox rocker with your own hands, especially since this procedure is not complicated.
When does the rocker need adjustment?
Gear shift mechanism.
The procedure for adjusting the gearbox linkage is recommended in the following cases:
- After the transmission on the car has been replaced or removed.
- When loosening the fixing clamps.
- If the cardan was changed.
- If the link starts to rotate on its hinge.
Although visually it may seem that the rocker is in place, even the slightest movement of the rocker can lead to incorrect operation of the gearbox. It happens that it is enough to tighten the link to the cardan by 1 mm, after which all functions of the gearbox will be restored.
Jet thrust VAZ 2110 operating principle
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the man is handsome. as if he’s not being filmed on camera, but actually talking to the guys =DDDD . as if the guys were sitting in front of him and listening to him =DDD
11/15/2017 — 06:44 Suleman Huleman
How much did you pay for the car?
thank you, I won’t install it, I didn’t think it would ruin the box
Make a video about the location of the masses and all possible glitches due to the masses, twisted almost everything, I can’t understand where the dog is buried from the car, it’s giving an electric shock, the bsk shows that the light bulb has just burned out, other indicators do not show and half of the instrument panel lights are not working, the lamps are ok
09.15.2017 — 20:04 Nemoy, kz
Well, good, your opinion about the cardan is wrong. I've been racing with him for 2 years now, and everything is fine. There's just a little more vibration on the gearbox. Think about it yourself, how can you break the box with an ordinary cardan? ahahahahahahahah nonsense.
09.14.2017 — 15:25 komm18
You're a funny man:
09.13.2017 — 08:46 Alexey Sushka
Thank you, I also installed the Kalinovsky, vibrations and ringing appeared on the lever.. I decided to return it to my original one. Why eight?
08/24/2017 — 20:38 Jason Crow
The Kalinovsky cardan needs to be sawed off a little to shorten the rod, in the original they are not installed on the Kalina, in all the manuals they write on the net, I’ve been driving for 3 years with no problems. And when installing a Kalinovsky cardan, you also need to put a Kalinovsky boot on it, for some reason everyone forgets about this, of course you can do it with the original one, but with a Kalinovsky one it will be better.
Adjustment
Now let's talk about how you can adjust the link if it shows primary signs of malfunction.
- First of all, try by hook or by crook to engage first gear.
- Place the car on an overpass, turn on the handbrake, place additional supports under the wheels to avoid the car moving.
- Do not turn off first gear on the transmission.
- At the bottom, find the clamp that holds the rocker and secures it. To do this you will have to crawl under the hood. You shouldn't have any problems finding the gearbox. The clamp needs to be loosened.
- Now return to the salon. Your task is to move the box lever as far as possible to the left. If you start to pull the handle forward or backward, the drawstring will most likely come off. You don't need it.
- Get back under the car and tighten the clamp back.
- In many cases, simply shifting the rocker relative to the cardan shaft by literally a few millimeters is enough.
When adjusting, pay attention to the condition of the cardan shaft. It may require replacement if worn out
Work is in full swing
Finalization
Now many owners of the VAZ 2110 are discussing the possibility of refining and improving the gearbox by replacing the rocker from a standard one to a short-throw one.
The short walk is the result of independent tuning. Decide for yourself whether to carry out such work or not. But from the point of view of the efficiency of the gearbox, installing a short-throw rocker is only beneficial, since gears begin to shift more clearly.
Short walker
To install a short walker for yourself, it is not necessary to completely dismantle the standard version.
To do this you need to perform several operations:
- You just need to disassemble the ball joint from the outside;
- Next, the metal ring of the support is opened and the legs made of plastic are spread apart;
- This is how the ball will come out;
- Now the rod is disconnected from the support, and a small piece of pipe and a piece of sheet metal of good strength are welded to the rod;
- Be sure to lift up the hinge with the hook, otherwise erroneous switching of speeds will not be avoided.
Installing a short drive will entail the need to apply more force when engaging a particular gear. But on the other hand, switching becomes clear and smooth. Therefore, decide for yourself which option would be better for you - standard or short-stroke.
Installation and modification of the gearbox control rod joint from Kalina in Lada Priora
1. Installation of the gearbox control rod joint from Kalina in Lada Priora
2. Refinement of the gearbox thrust joint in the Lada Priora
Installation of the gearbox control rod joint from Kalina in Lada Priora
I looked closely for a long time, but couldn’t decide. And so, while at the car market, this device caught my eye again. Bought. Even during preliminary fitting, I discovered a strong play in the gearbox torque in the damping joint - that’s what rattled during acceleration. The reason is wear of the hinge bushings. At the same time, I also bought the torque rod joint assembly, because I couldn’t find any bushings separately. In general, for the future there are some thoughts on improving this hinge, because its design is moronic. But, more on that later.
Tie rod joints and gearbox control rod joints. Both are from viburnum. The seller was dumb, but I didn’t look. Then I had to change the Kalinovsky jet thrust joint to a ten-seater one, because the Kalinovsky one does not fit: it has a thicker shank and larger bushings.
There is no point in describing anything special. Everything has been chewed up for a long time. The tail of the Kalinokardanka is 2 cm longer than the native Priorovsky. The excess is sawed off with a grinder and that’s the end of it.
And here is the removed Prior’s hinge (aka tenth hinge). Has decent play in the longitudinal direction. This is a design feature.
After installing the Kalino cardan, the box was replaced. I never thought that installing this simple device could so improve the comfort of using a completely uncomfortable VAZ box. Surprisingly, for some reason the most painful first gear began to engage noticeably easier and more clearly. In short, a must-have for everyone, Prior.
Sahler gearshift knob.
To extend the life of the new handle, I decided to first pull a thick fabric skirt over the handle and only then installed a Sahler rubber boot on top. Let's see what comes of this.
Refinement of the gearbox thrust joint in the Lada Priora
This knot has been bothering me for a long time. If you shake it from the pit, it dangles all over. When the wear of the plastic bushings reaches a certain value, a rattling sound appears during acceleration, which is transmitted to the passenger compartment. This is all due to the stupid design of this hinge. The rubber damper dampens only strong shocks with high amplitude, and all the little things are well transmitted to the gearshift lever and into the passenger compartment through non-elastic plastic bushings, which. Moreover, for this reason, they break very quickly. I didn’t reinvent the wheel and purchased 2 rubber bushings from the 2108 valve cover.
Signs of breakdown
In fact, it is not difficult to determine that the backstage is the culprit of all the troubles. After all, there are a number of characteristic signs that indicate this.
You can prepare to work on adjusting or replacing the rocker if:
- The first gear does not want to stubbornly engage or disengage, or move to another position;
- When you engage first gear, initially the gearshift knob behaves normally, but then the box spontaneously jumps into reverse gear;
- You cannot engage first and/or fifth gear, while changing to other speeds is no problem.
At the first sign of a problem, you should go to a service station or your own garage to have the problem repaired.
| Sign of breakdown | Explanation |
| There is play on the gear lever | Most likely the linkage is worn out. In this situation, the problem can only be solved by replacing the worn element |
| The ringing of the scenes | It occurs most often when there are problems with the gearbox on a VAZ 2110. The ringing can be caused by defects in factory production, or by poor-quality repairs |
| It’s hard to engage the gearbox, it gets knocked out | In such a situation, you can try two methods - adjustment and replacement. If the adjustment does not help, change the element |
| Instead of first gear, reverse gear is engaged | Everything is fine with the lever, but the rocker let you down. Make a replacement. Although repairs using a repair kit can also help |
| Lever vibrates excessively | Check the condition of your transmission handle joints. Most likely, there was a serious backlash in them |
