Replacing the boot of the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2114. When is it necessary to replace the CV joint on a VAZ

Cost of anthers

The price range is quite wide: from approximately 150 to 1000 rubles.
and higher. It all depends on the make of the car and the manufacturer of the part. Non-original spare parts are cheaper. However, it also happens that the cost is unreasonably high: for example, because of the brand. Thus, the price of covers for a Toyota Land Cruiser reaches 8,000 rubles. The same can be said about other prestigious car brands. But not all car owners are eager to pay that kind of money for essentially an ordinary rubber band, albeit of high quality. Therefore, many simply select covers from other cars that are suitable in size and cost. Causes of boot rupture:

constant driving through water and mud;
high torsional load (regular sharp turns);
careless (unprofessional) repair of suspension parts.

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In theory, and sometimes even in practice, it is possible to replace the boot without removing the CV joint.

But in most cases, resorting to such methods is not particularly rational or correct. To minimize the consequences of such a makeshift replacement, use special elastic anthers.

And the most correct solution would be to dismantle and replace it in accordance with the operation and repair manual. Objectively, this is the most correct and effective solution to the problem of a torn boot.

There are many life hacks related to car repair and maintenance. But not all of them are universal, useful and safe.

Therefore, think twice before using the life hack discussed in the example of your own car. You assume all risks.

Do you think it is worth changing the anthers in this way? Or is this life hack extremely dubious and ineffective?

Write your opinion in the comments. It will be interesting to read your reviews. At the end there is also a visual video.

Fault diagnosis

The VAZ 2114 has 2 external and 2 internal CV joints. First you need to determine which one is knocking. The optimal test would be on a suspension diagnostic stand. If this is not possible, diagnosis by ear is possible.

Two signs indicate a grenade malfunction in a VAZ 2114:

the sound resembles a crunch;
It usually appears when turning.

The simplest and most accurate way to do a garage check is as follows:

Place the car on a flat surface;
Turn the wheels to one side (to the middle position or a little further);
Drive off with medium speed. It is worth remembering that starting too smoothly may not reveal a crunch due to insufficient load on the CV joint, and starting too abruptly may lead to the drive flying out of the wheel.
Repeat the operation by turning the steering wheel in the other direction. The appearance of a crunch indicates a malfunction of the outer CV joint on the side in which the steering wheel is turned.

Visual detection of ruptured anthers will also be a sign of a CV joint failure. If you discover a damaged protection for any grenade, it must be immediately removed, disassembled and cleaned. If there is enough grease and there is no significant wear on the hinges yet, it is enough to replace the boot and fill it with new grease. If the wear of the balls is obvious, it is better to change the grenade.

CV joint boot VAZ 2114 with a defect

It is more difficult to diagnose a malfunction of the internal grenade on a VAZ 2114. If it malfunctions, it crunches when starting off in a straight direction, and not when turning. But the same symptoms, for example, include play in the steering rack or wear on the engine mounts.

Sometimes the problem can be diagnosed from the pit by tugging on the drive from the gearbox side: strong play or the appearance of extraneous sounds indicate that the internal CV joint should be replaced.

Replacing CV joints VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

If you do not regularly check and change the boot, then frequent replacement of the VAZ 2114, 2115 or 2113 CV joint is inevitable. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly clean this element from dirt, dust, reagents, sand and moisture. Other reasons for the failure of the hinge are: exhaustion of the unit's service life, damage to the retaining ring, and others. But, no matter what the problem, if you hear a characteristic crunching sound when turning when you take turns at speed, you need to urgently carry out restoration work. Otherwise, there is a high risk of the grenade breaking into two halves while the vehicle is moving. In case of this malfunction, repairing it yourself is quite possible. This article will tell you how to fix the problem. But first you need to understand how the CV joint works.

Disassembling the drive and replacing the boot

Sequence of work.

The car is driven into a pit, chocks are placed under the wheels, and the car itself is left in first gear.

Before completely removing the wheel, loosen all the wheel nuts.

This is interesting: The CV joint is crunching: reasons, how to determine which grenade is crunching, is it possible to drive and what to do

The protective cap of the nut securing the drive to the hub is also removed.

To prevent the nut from unscrewing from the shaft, it is centered around the circumference, which is why it has bends that fit into a groove made in the shaft.

These bends need to be aligned, this is done with a thin screwdriver or a drift and a hammer.

After aligning the bends, using a socket and a powerful wrench, the nut is unscrewed, and the washer located under it is also removed.

Next, the car is jacked up and wooden stands are placed under its sills.

The wheel nuts are unscrewed and the wheel is removed.

Next, work is done under the car.

If there is a crankcase protection, it can be unscrewed. Then the oil from the gearbox is drained through the drain plug into the prepared container.

Next, you need to unscrew the two bolts securing the lower ball joint to the hub.

This will make it possible for the latter to move sideways. At the same time, you can check the condition of the support itself.

The steering wheel must be turned all the way to the left so that the drive is completely shifted in the inner CV joint, ensuring its minimum length.

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After this, the hub is removed from the splines of the drive shaft.

The outside of the drive will be removed.

Then you can go in two ways.

The first way.

Knock down the outer “grenade” without removing the inner CV joint.

To do this, you need to remove the boot clamps, and then cut the boot, and then wipe off the existing grease on the hinge.

Then you need to prevent the drive from moving on the internal hinge.

To do this, take a small vice or a butt wrench, clamp the shaft in them and hold it firmly in your hands.

An assistant, using a soft metal spacer and a hammer, knocks down the CV joint, striking the inner race of the hinge.

With this method, there is no need to drain the oil from the box. But there is a possibility that when striking, the inner race will jump out of the outer inner CV joint.

Also, shooting down a “grenade” in this way is not very convenient, since this work will be done in a limited space.

Second way.

Complete removal of the drive from the vehicle. To do this, a pry bar is driven between the gearbox housing and the internal joint and the shaft entering the gearbox is pulled back and forth.

After this, the drive is completely removed.

IMPORTANT: With this method, the oil must be drained.

The advantage of this method is also the ability to assess the condition and replace the gearbox seal, through which oil often leaks.

In the future we will consider work with the drive completely removed.

How to replace the outer CV joint boot without removing it

This is also possible, at least on domestic cars, but you will have to acquire (or borrow) a special device that stretches the boot. The device is a housing with movable arms attached to it and a connected hose for supplying compressed air. A rubber cover is put on them and they stretch it. All that remains is to pull the device through the grenade removed from the hub and release the levers. The process is worth watching in more detail in the video.

Replacing the inner CV joint boot

To do this, you will have to remove the drive shaft completely. But first you need to remove the outer CV joint, as described above, that is, pull it out of the hub without removing the grenade. Next, drain the oil from the box. After this, unscrew the nuts securing the inner joint (usually there are 6 of them) and insert a flat mounting between the gearbox and the CV joint - the part should come out of the socket. Clamp the part in a vice, then:

remove the retaining ring using a flat screwdriver;
pull out the inner CV joint housing and carefully pick out the balls located in the separator;
remove the clip stopper and the clip itself;
wash all parts in gasoline;
install a new boot and, having generously treated everything with lubricant, reassemble in the reverse order;
install the drive, tighten the drain plug and pour oil into the box.

Complete removal of the drive is also recommended if the grenade was not knocked down when trying to replace the outer CV joint boot. In this case, you can use a vice and achieve your goal. If you don’t need to knock down the grenade to replace it, just put on the cover after removing the inner CV joint, remembering to wash it first and apply new grease to the outside (the part cannot be repaired - it is not removable).

Let's summarize

From the above, it is obvious that replacing a VAZ 2114 CV joint with your own hands is quite affordable. The activities take little time, provided you know how to handle the tool and have common sense. To ensure that repairs do not have to be performed frequently, you need to not only regularly check the condition of the boot. But also change the lubricant. Experts recommend doing this at least every 100 thousand kilometers.

Further steps are performed in reverse order. Also see the sequence of replacing the CV joint on a VAZ 2114, 2113 or 2115 in this video:

Source

Signs of failure of the outer grenade (CV joint)

There are two options here:

signs that your grenade has already broken
signs that the grenade will soon come out and break .

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How to understand that a grenade will break soon

Of course, the first sign of a malfunction of the external grenade is a crackling sound . If you hear a crackling noise while driving with the steering wheel turned, it is definitely a CV joint. The greater the angle of rotation of the wheel and the harder you press on the gas, the louder the clicks. Another sign that does not always appear is vibration on the steering wheel at speeds greater than 80 km/h. The vibration is only slightly similar to the vibration from an unbalanced wheel. It usually manifests itself as a slight twitching of the steering wheel.

How to understand that the outer CV joint is broken

If the CV joint breaks, the car will stop moving. In any gear engaged, press the gas, the speed increases, but the car does not move.

How to understand that it is the outer CV joint that has broken, and not the internal one or the clutch in general (the first signs of failure are similar to the signs of a clutch failure)? First of all, start the car and put it in any gear. Next, open the hood and look in turn at each of the shafts going from the box to the wheels (one short, the other long). If any shaft is spinning, it means that the CV joint has broken on this side.

I recommend not just visually looking at the shaft, but touching it with some long, hard object, such as a stick. The main thing is that there is nothing on it that can wrap around the shaft !!! When you touch the shaft with a stick, if it is spinning, you will feel a slight vibration. This is usually done in the dark, because it is difficult to understand whether a cylindrical object is spinning, especially in the dark.

In what cases is it necessary to replace the inner CV joint?

Replacing the internal CV joint on front-wheel drive VAZ vehicles is required if the following symptoms are present:

Crunching and knocking noises when driving and accelerating in a straight line;
Vibration and shock when changing gears;
Significant play when testing by hand;
If the “grenade” fails completely, the vehicle cannot move further.

» alt=»»> The main reason for the malfunction of the VAZ “grenade” is the entry of water and dirt through the hole in the torn boot. The second possible cause of failure is a sharp press on the gas with the wheels fully turned, although in this case you risk killing the external rather than the internal grenade.

In addition to the above, replacing the internal CV joint on VAZ-2110 and other models may be necessary if the quality of the previously installed joint is poor.

How to remove a vaz shruz

Having determined that it is the external grenade that is broken, we begin to remove it.

How to unscrew the hub nut on a VAZ?

First of all, unscrew the hub nut. To do this, take a 30mm head and a lever, the larger the better. We put bricks under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling (simply putting it in gear is not an option, the wheel will spin) and begin to unscrew the hub nut.

In this matter, the more you weigh, the better, since I very often lacked my weight and leverage of about one and a half meters. I got out of the situation in the following way: I stood completely on the lever, as close to the edge as possible, thereby giving maximum tension to the nut, and hit the lever with a hammer. Usually this method helped me unscrew even the most soured wheel nuts.

One more nuance: if the outer walls of the head come into contact with the walls of the hub, it is better to lubricate the head with mining or lithol, or, in extreme cases, with silicone grease. Thanks to this trick, the head will not bite in the hub.

How to remove a grenade?

The hub nut is unscrewed, now we remove the wheel, unscrew the two bolts that hold the ball joint, disconnect the suspension arm and the hub, move it to the side of the car while lightly tapping the grenade, remove it from the hub. At this point there are two options:

The grenade is already broken.
Replacing the grenade due to its crunching sound.

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In the first case, you simply remove the outer part of the CV joint from the shaft, then the retaining ring from the drive shaft and knock off the cage with a hammer.

In the second case, removing the CV joint becomes more difficult. You need to deflect the grenade relative to the shaft at the maximum angle so that the bearing balls and their cage are visible.

Now use a hammer to break the jumpers of the cage between the bearing balls and take out the balls one by one. When you take out the last ball, you can remove the body of the grenade, and then its inner part sitting on the shaft, after first removing the locking ring from the shaft.

Of course, you can simply try to knock the grenade off the shaft, but due to the locking ring this will be problematic.

That's it, the CV joint is completely removed. Now let's start installing the new part.

Replacement

Armed with new CV joints, also collect a set of necessary tools and materials.

It will include:

Set of heads;
Spanners;
Shoes;
Dry rags;
Grease for CV joints;
Jack;
Anthers.

CV joint arrangement diagram

Now let's get down to work on replacing the CV joints:

Determine the location where the repairs will be carried out. This could be an overpass, a garage with an inspection hole, or a room with a car lift.
Stop the engine and apply the handbrake. Use chocks to block the wheels.
Using a wheel wrench, remove the wheel bolts.
Raise the required part of the car with a jack.
Loosen the nut in the center of the CV joint. Keep an eye on the puck so you don't lose it. It is not included with the new CV joint.
Armed with 13mm wrenches, unscrew the fasteners of the upper part of the ball joint. It is not necessary to perform a similar procedure with the lower part, since it will not interfere with the repair process.
Using a pry bar, slightly rip the grooves off the support and move them aside.
Knock the hub off the CV joint splines. To do this you will need a hammer and some kind of wooden stand.
Remove the old damaged CV joint.
Check for damage to the stem.
Remove any remaining lubricant from the rod using a dry rag.
Place a new grenade in the new location. This assembly should include a CV joint, boot, clamps, nuts, and retaining rings.
When assembling the unit, do not forget to use high-quality lubricants. There shouldn’t be too much of it, but you shouldn’t feel too sorry either.
Reassemble the parts in reverse order.
By changing the CV joints, you can simultaneously check the condition of the brake pads. If they are in a sufficiently worn condition, it is advised to replace them at the same time. Anyway, you have already dismantled the knot.
After completing the repair, check the car in action.
It’s not uncommon for craftsmen without much experience to leave behind supposedly unnecessary parts after reassembly. Please note that everything that remains after assembly, and that is not the released elements that you replaced with new ones, has its place in the design of the car. Therefore, check where exactly these “extra” elements come from and install them in their rightful place.

How to install a new CV joint on a VAZ

Be sure to follow this sequence for installing new parts:

Small clamp.
Grenade boot.
Large clamp.
Retaining ring.
The CV joint itself.

First, we clean the drive shaft from dust, dirt and old grease. Most CV joints come with lubricant, a boot, two clamps and sometimes a new hub nut. If suddenly there is no lubricant in the kit, it is better to use graphite lubricant, and if it is not available, then simple lithol. First of all, we put on a small collar. Then the boot (it should go behind the limiting washer) and a large clamp. Then we put a retaining ring on the drive shaft. Now open the tube of lubricant and completely squeeze it into the grenade. Now it's time to put the CV joint on the drive. Because of the locking ring, it will be difficult to insert the drive into the grenade, so we take a hammer and lightly, trying not to damage the thread, press the grenade into place. Now you need to put the boot on the CV joint and tighten the clamps. Assembly occurs in reverse disassembly sequence, but there is one nuance! Do not overtighten the hub nut! This may cause the bearing to hum. The hub nut must be tightened with a force of 225.0–250.0 N*m. Of course, few people have a torque wrench. So, tighten the nut tightly, but not with all your might. In theory, a force of a maximum of 25 kg will need to be applied to a meter-long knob. But, the extension pipe will spring back under such force, so how can you describe it exactly? But obviously there is no need to jump with weight.

Garage repair

Now let's get straight to replacing the boot without removing the hinge itself, that is, the CV joint.

It is quite possible to replace the anthers without dismantling the drive. After all, the main task is to release the outer end from the hub. Then all that remains is to simply pull the new seal, like a contraceptive (condom), across the entire shaft.

Before tightening, be sure to turn the boot inside out correctly.

After this, you will need to cut the old element, install new clamps, and add high-quality lubricant. Since the new boots are highly elastic, you can tighten them without any problems. In this case, reliability will not be affected.

Step-by-step instruction

If you decide to do everything yourself, then you need to follow a certain sequence and follow the instructions.

The whole process roughly looks like this. Here it is worth making allowances for design differences between different cars.

First, place the car on a pit or lift. The vehicle must be securely secured and prepared for work;
Unscrew the drive nut first. There is a possibility that it will have to be changed;
If you have a MacPherson type suspension, you will need to unscrew the ball joint nut;
After this, you can pull the hub to the side. This will allow you to pull out the outer part of the drive;
Armed with a pry bar or large screwdriver, pry up the inner CV joint and pull out the drive;
The drive is in front of you. Place it where it is convenient for you. Dismantle the old clamps, remove the retaining ring;
Now carefully pull on the new boot;
Connect the 2 parts of the drive until you hear a characteristic click;
Return the locking ring to its place and fully tighten the fresh boot;
All that remains is to tighten the clamp and return everything to its place.

The only problem is that this method is not suitable for everyone and not always. First you will need to purchase a special elastic boot. Many commercially available parts are extremely hard.

Therefore, in the case of their use, there is no need to talk about any possibilities of twisting and pulling, like a condom.

Special devices are also used to tighten the anthers. But they are not so easy to get, plus the price is high.

What to do if the boot breaks on the road

The situation is not uncommon: you had to change a tire while on the road and you noticed that the boot was torn. It is highly not recommended to leave “everything as it is” and go to the nearest car service: CV joint is not a cheap part at all, especially if it is on an expensive foreign car. Options:

Place the car on a jack (if it is not already on it), pull out the old contaminated grease through the hole and fill the boot with grease until it stops, and to prevent it from falling out when driving, wrap the problem area with a plastic bag and tighten it along the corrugation with a rope.
Wrap the torn case with opaque tape or electrical tape. This “alternative” will last for 500 kilometers until the boot is changed.

On the road, check whether your “winding” is in place: getting dirt under it will sharply reduce the life of the CV joint.

Replacing the inner CV joint with your own hands

» alt=»»> The procedure for replacing a “grenade” is the same for the entire front-wheel drive VAZ line, starting with 2108 and ending with VAZ-2115, “Kalina”, “Priora”, “Grant”. Before removing the inner CV joint, the oil is drained from the gearbox. Then proceed according to the following algorithm:

Unlock and unscrew the hub nut. To make the work easier, a piece of pipe about 1 meter long should be put on the key.
The desired side of the car is hung on a jack or lift.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the washer located under the hub nut installation site.
Disconnect the steering tip.
The CV joint is removed from the hub.
Using a pry bar, remove the drive and internal joint from the gearbox.

Note: when removing both drives at the same time, a suitable mandrel should be installed in their place.

How to change the “grenade” with the drive removed? To do this, clamp the shaft in a vice, loosen the clamps and remove the boot. After this, the hinge is knocked off the splines with hammer blows.

The new CV joint should be hammered by applying light blows to its end with a hammer. For this it is better to use a wooden mallet. The “grenade” is first filled with a special lubricant.

Before installing a new constant velocity joint, it is necessary to clean its seat from old grease and install a new boot. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

The repair is considered complete after successful sea trials. In this case, there should be no extraneous sounds from the drive side in all modes of vehicle movement.

Shall we get started?

Before replacing the mechanism, you need to drain all the oil from the gearbox. Let's not touch the jack yet! You need to place a brick under the rear wheel of the car, after this procedure we take the 30 socket and, accordingly, loosen the nut. Don't be alarmed, you may need about a half meter long piece of pipe half a meter long as a lever. Remember, we only need to loosen the nut, not remove it yet!
Everything worked out? Go ahead! We lift the car with a jack, and only now completely remove the hub nut along with the washer. Now you can safely remove the wheel from the hub.
Take the 13mm head and remove the two bolts that secure the ball to the hub. After this, we move the hub and remove the outer grenade from it. Then we attach a pry bar to the internal grenade and, using hammer blows, knock it out of the gearbox. By the way, if you still don’t have a pry bar at hand, a piece of pipe can replace it.
When the grenade is removed, we clamp its shaft in a vice.
We remove the clamps from the unusable boot. After that, we shoot down the outer grenade. Attention! In order not to damage it, you need to hit it along the edge. When this operation is completed, remove all old grease from the mechanism, wash it in gasoline or kerosene and wipe it well again, this way you can better remove traces of grease.
Now we put a new boot on the drive shaft, and using a hammer we hammer the outer CV joint back, after thoroughly lubricating all the parts of the product. After that, we put it on and tighten it with a collar.
Then we insert the grenade into the gearbox, driving it there. We place it in the hub and return the ball to its place. We put on the hub nut.

Consider the device

The stable availability of spare parts for any domestic cars in stores, and their quite affordable price, makes the repair (replacement) of a CV joint not costly, both financially and in terms of time. However:

You should take into account that replacing a boot in terms of the volume of work performed is no less than replacing a grenade on a VAZ 2115
That is why in practice, due to the labor intensity, replacing the boot cannot be called easy, in addition, you will need skills in using metalwork tools and following the rules in accordance with safety requirements when starting to perform such work
CV joint, also called a “grenade” for its peculiar shape, its task is to transmit torque from the box to the wheels of the car, the design of the CV joint is not complicated, it consists of the main seven elements, photo below

The main elements of the CV joint and the CV boot (boot)

However, although its service life is designed for a long time, replacing the VAZ 2115 CV joint is a procedure that has to be performed quite often and this largely depends on the intensity and operating conditions of the machine
The need for replacement arises when play appears in any connections of the device, or when there is a characteristic crunch and crackling sound when turning the wheels.
Replacement is usually carried out after checking and confirming the version of the CV joint malfunction, and you need to diagnose it to make sure that the whole problem really lies in it

How to inspect the case

This can be done without removing the wheel: just turn it all the way in any direction and shine a flashlight on the part for better visibility. Also feel it with your hands: you will feel the tears immediately. The best inspection option is to remove the wheel (for example, when you are repairing a tube, a tire at a tire shop, or doing a seasonal tire change). Everything will be more noticeable here. Also, for one reason or another, you probably have to put the car in the inspection hole: for example, when changing the oil, adjusting the hand brake, etc. Here, also take the opportunity and inspect the CV joint covers: this can be done more carefully than in previous cases.

You can tell that the cover needs to be replaced by the appearance of thick grease on the suspension parts and on it itself.

What to choose?

To replace the inner or outer CV joint on a VAZ 2114, a new element will be required. To be fair, we note that the most suitable and high-quality CV joints for the VAZ 2114 model are produced by the manufacturer, that is, AvtoVAZ.

But here comes the most important disappointment - they are not for sale. The only option is to go to a specialized VAZ official car service center. But from the point of view of financial costs, it is not the most reasonable decision.

In addition, there is now a fairly wide range of analogues on the market. Judging by the reviews of VAZ 2114 owners, special attention should be paid to CV joints produced by such companies as:

Photo of GKN CV joint for VAZ 2114

Advice from experienced motorists

There are some useful tips on this matter that are worth listening to.

If you hear a characteristic crunch while driving in a straight line, it means the CV joint has failed. If this crunching noise is heard only when turning, then the problem lies in a faulty joint.
Before installing a new CV joint, treat the grenade landing site with lubricant. This significantly extends its service life.
To adjust the CV joint and seat it properly, use wooden attachments. If this is not done, the risk of damaging the new element is very high.
The boot should be installed as tightly and efficiently as possible. If you don't do this, dirt and dust will soon get there. These components will quickly render it unusable, and repair work will have to be carried out again.
The lock nut on the hub is tightened with a special torque tool. Moreover, tightening is carried out strictly with the parameters specified in the instruction manual for your VAZ 2114 modification.
During a routine inspection of the technical condition of your car, be sure to pay attention to the condition of the clamps and rubber elements to ensure their integrity. Such seemingly insignificant components can lead to serious consequences and significant financial costs.
The purchase of spare parts, including CV joints, should be made only from trusted sellers, certified distributors. If you buy a bad, low-quality part, just trying to save money, you will have to pay even more to eliminate the consequences that the use of such elements led to.

The CV joint is an important component of any car, and replacing it even on your own is not particularly difficult.

Source

CV joint repair

As mentioned above, the hinge cannot be repaired. Conventionally, one of the repair measures includes washing the “grenade” after driving with a damaged boot.

Washing is carried out at the same time when the damaged boot on the pomegranate is replaced. The hinge is carefully knocked off the shaft, inspected for damage and thoroughly washed to remove any dirt and grease in gasoline or kerosene.

After washing, the assembly is filled with lubricant and mounted in place, having previously installed the boot. The procedure makes sense only if there are no obvious signs of a joint malfunction.

A crunchy or knocking part definitely needs to be replaced, since wear forms on the working surfaces of the inner race, and it is no longer possible to stop the destruction. Continued operation of the vehicle may be dangerous for the driver and other road users.

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Write:

In front-wheel drive cars, one of the most problematic areas is the constant velocity joints. Abbreviated as CV joint or "grenade". The CV joint is a kind of ball bearing; its races have transverse grooves, which allows you to change the angle between the drive and driven axle shafts. All elements of the CV joint are made of ultra-strong alloys, the wear of which occurs extremely slowly, but, as practice shows, signs of a CV joint malfunction can appear even in a car that has recently left the assembly line of a car plant.

Necessary tool

If you decide to do the repairs yourself, you will need the following tools to disassemble the car:

Open-end wrenches for 17, 19. But it is better to have a full set on hand;
Set of heads and knobs;
Wheelbrace and jack;
Pliers;
Screwdriver;
Hammer;
Rag and gloves.

Also make sure you have a complete replacement kit: grenade, boot, CV joint grease and two clamps. For convenience, you can drive onto a pit or overpass, and for safety reasons, set the car to the parking brake and put supports under the wheels.

Tips and notes

The procedure for replacing the outer boot of the left CV joint was described above. There are practically no differences in the replacement process for the left and right sides. The only difference is that the protective cover of the right inner CV joint is not attached to the gearbox using bolts. The hinge itself is mounted on splines and secured with a stopper, so the shaft is removed by tapping a hammer through a drift.

It is important to remember that there are differences in the size of the protective covers themselves - the left one is 2 cm shorter and 1.5 cm larger in diameter. Accordingly, they are not interchangeable.. Despite the fact that on cars before the 2010 restyling the CV joints are non-separable, their design has not fundamentally changed, so the technology for replacing CV joint boots is similar.

Despite the fact that on cars before the 2010 restyling, CV joints were non-separable, their design did not fundamentally change, so the technology for replacing CV joint boots is similar.

If you don't have a CV joint puller

If there is no puller for dismantling the retaining ring of the inner joint race, you must use a hammer and chisel carefully so as not to break it. It is recommended to apply weak blows to the points of the clip located around the circle at an angle of 120° to each other and continue to do this consistently until the clip is completely removed

To avoid losing the rings of the cage, before dismantling it is necessary to wrap it in a piece of rags.

When replacing the outer CV joint boot, it is quite reasonable to replace the inner boot as well. Firstly, by the time the outer protective cover is removed, most of the dismantling work will have already been completed, and, secondly, this will significantly increase the overall service life of the drive. In addition, it is strongly recommended that along with the external boot, you also replace the plastic boot, oil seal and bearing.

Thus, by performing a relatively simple operation to replace the outer CV joint boot, you can prevent the labor-intensive and costly work of replacing the entire CV joint or wheel drive assembly.