Replacing the inner CV joint of a viburnum with your own hands

Replacing outer and inner CV joints on Lada Kalina

CV joint (constant velocity joint - approx.) or popularly just a “grenade”, is designed to transmit torque to the wheels of a car. CV joints can be internal or external, and the devices themselves are quite simple in technical terms and consist of a ball bearing that rotates transversely to its axis.

In the video, replacing CV joints on a Lada Kalina:

Failure of the CV joint on the Lada Kalina is a very common occurrence, and the main reason for its failure is torn anthers. Because, together with dust and water falling under them, the lubricant turns into thick mud, and it is no longer able to fully perform its functions.

Replacing the outer CV joint

In the process of replacing the outer CV joint

The work of replacing an outer or inner CV joint is not very difficult and can be done by any motorist who has at least once repaired a car with his own hands. And in order for the repair to be easier and faster, you need to prepare the following tools:

Socket heads for “17” and “30”.
Driver or ratchet.
Extension for the wrench.
Jack.
Wheel chocks.
Hammer.
Vise.

Step-by-step disassembly procedure

After you are convinced of the malfunction of one or another CV joint, you can begin to work.

First of all, we tear off the mounting bolts from the wheel and the hub nut, then we set the wheel chocks under the rear wheels. (To make it easier to tear off the nuts, it is better to use an extension for the wrench - approx.).
We put the car on a jack and hang the wheel.
We remove the wheel and, for greater reliability, place it under the car next to the jack.
Now that this picture appears before you, all that remains is to unscrew the 2 bolts that secure the ball joint to the steering knuckle.

Unscrew the bolts marked with a red marker on both sides.

CV joint VAZ. Lada grenade. Comparison of different manufacturers

They counterfeit everything related to the AvtoVAZ assembly line. Any part purchased at a car store can be a counterfeit...

BEWARE OF FAKE! CV joint LADA Image. features

CV Joint Review

(grenades) for VAZ 2108-2115.

Without causing strong blows, the CV joint will move out of place

If the internal CV joint is supposed to be replaced, then work 1 to 6 should be performed as well, after which, using a pry bar, we remove it from the gearbox and take out the entire assembly.

Replacing the outer CV joint of the Prior

The CV joint sits on the shaft using a splined connection. The splines have two slots into which retaining rings are installed. On the inside, the ring limits the movement of the CV joint inside the shaft. And it is a rigid thrust ring. On the other side of the shaft, the CV joint retaining ring is springy and when the CV joint is installed, it is compressed. There is a slot in the inside of the splined part of the CV joint.

The ring gets into it and, straightening, stops the CV joint from coming out of the shaft. This connection ensures that the CV joint is in a fixed position and eliminates its beating. In order for the CV joint to come out, it is necessary to apply several sharp blows to the CV joint. As a result, the retaining ring will compress and the CV joint will freely come off the shaft. All that remains is to remove the remaining old grease from the torn boot from the shaft. And wash the spline connection.

Packing the CV joint with lubricant

Before installation, the CV joint must be filled with lubricant. Special CV joint oil 4 is used as a lubricant. Lubricant must be filled into the splined part until it begins to show from the balls.

This will fill the entire internal volume of the CV joint.

Replacing the CV joint boot on a Priora

Before installing the CV joint on the shaft, it is necessary to put the CV joint boot on. It is not necessary to remove the internal retaining ring. The boot is put on the shaft like a stocking. At the same time, he turns inside out. After the boot passes the locking ring, you need to turn it back out.

To install the narrow part of the boot on the shaft there is a ring-shaped extension. The boot should slip through it... and rest against it with its back side. this will look like a stopper for the boot. If it is installed before this expansion, the boot will quickly tear. And the replacement of the Priora CV joint boot will need to be repeated.

Installing the CV joint on the shaft

The CV joint must be inserted into the splined part of the shaft up to the outer retaining ring. After the CV joint rests against it, apply a slight sharp blow to the CV joint from the outside. Be sure to place a wooden block at the impact site. To avoid damaging the CV joint threads.

The outer retaining ring is compressed by the impact and the CV joint is pushed onto the shaft until it touches the inner retaining ring. As soon as the CV joint rests. The outer retaining ring will snap into place in the groove of the CV joint. It is necessary to put the boot on the CV joint. After the boot is in place. Clamps are installed.

How to tighten a clamp on a CV joint

Tightening clamps requires a lot of patience, especially if you don’t do it often. The clamp that comes with the kit. Most precisely suited for installation on the CV joint boot. Because after installation it has minor protrusions. Which do not allow catching grass, wire and all possible fibers.

The installation principle is quite simple. At the end of the clamp there is a slot with a protruding peak. it is necessary to hook the peak onto the protrusion on the clamp located exactly in the place that gives the normal tension of the clamp. There are two additional tabs on the clamp. Designed for gripping with pliers or pliers. With the help of these protrusions the clamp is tightened. A clamp with a smaller diameter can be pulled together almost without problems. Using pliers.

Their span is enough to reach the protrusions on the clamp. But I had to tinker with a larger diameter clamp. A larger span of something is required that can tighten the clamp. I couldn't find anything of that size at hand in the garage. I had to use old metal scissors, having previously sharpened the hooks on the tips of the scissors. And only after that it was possible to tighten and connect the clamp.

That is, it is very difficult to tighten the clamp on the CV joint without special tools.

So-called Euro clamps are sold separately in stores. Installing them is more convenient and faster. The clamp is connected using protrusions at the end. Then it is pulled together using regular pliers.

After installing the boot, you can insert the CV joint into the hub.

Installing the CV joint in the hub.

After the CV joint is installed on the shaft. It must be inserted into the hub. The stand is retracted again. The CV joint easily fits into the hub.

The ball joint is screwed to the rack with two bolts. Then you need to put the wheel back in place and lower the car to tighten the CV joint nut.

The tightening force is 225-247 N*m. The force is quite large, you don’t always have a torque wrench at hand. This nut is tightened as tightly as possible so as not to strip the threads. If tightened without a torque wrench. There is no need to be afraid of squeezing the bearing. Bearings are installed on the hub. Here the CV joint is simply attracted to the hub. And the large tightening force is associated with the loads that the CV joint transmits to rotate the wheel. Tightening prevents runout from appearing in the splined part of the hub and CV joint. After the CV joint is tightened. It is necessary to lock the nut.

Then remove the wheel again and put the protective cap back in place. Screw in the stabilizer.

Replacing the CV joint on a Lada Priora. The procedure is not complicated. This means that you can make repairs yourself, even if you haven’t done it before, without much effort. The only problem with the clamps is of course problematic. Therefore, it is better to take care in advance and purchase Euro clamps for the anthers

Signs of CV joint failure

The first signs of a faulty grenade are crunching sounds in the area of the front wheel on turned out wheels when starting to move. When the fault is severe, noise appears at less significant loads.

The anther begins to crawl

In order to prevent such damage in advance, you should periodically inspect the anthers from the outside for cracks and integrity in general.

Selection of CV joints

CV joint in original packaging. Usually inside the package is a pomegranate produced by VIS

There is no consensus among car owners regarding the choice of one or another brand of constant velocity joint, but clear leaders stand out:

VIS.
GNK.
Original packaging of GNK CV joint
Inside the GNK CV joint package - boot, CV joint, clamps
GNK outer CV joint installed
GLO.

On a note!

Constant velocity joints, which are sold in the store in sets, include grease, a boot and all the necessary clamps in their sets. Pay special attention to this fact so as not to overpay for additional spare parts and accessories.

I had to change more than one CV joint. Of course, I had to tinker with the first one for a couple of hours, since I didn’t really know all the subtleties, but I changed the subsequent ones almost with my eyes closed.

I bought a grenade for viburnum. The assembly includes the grenade itself, a finger guard and clamps. You can change it in an hour without rushing, it can be done faster. But why rush in such a matter?

"Lada Kalina" is a front-wheel drive car in which the engine and gearbox are located transversely relative to the body. The drive to the wheels is carried out through the main gear. Torque is transmitted through constant velocity joints (simply CV joints, or “grenade”). There are several of them - internal and external. Despite their reliability, these elements can fail. Well, let's look at how to replace a “grenade” on a Kalina, what tools are needed for this and what are the signs of a malfunction.

CV joint repair

As mentioned above, the hinge cannot be repaired. Conventionally, one of the repair measures includes washing the “grenade” after driving with a damaged boot.

Washing is carried out at the same time when the damaged boot on the pomegranate is replaced. The hinge is carefully knocked off the shaft, inspected for damage and thoroughly washed to remove any dirt and grease in gasoline or kerosene.

After washing, the assembly is filled with lubricant and mounted in place, having previously installed the boot. The procedure makes sense only if there are no obvious signs of a joint malfunction.

A crunchy or knocking part definitely needs to be replaced, since wear forms on the working surfaces of the inner race, and it is no longer possible to stop the destruction. Continued operation of the vehicle may be dangerous for the driver and other road users.

Device

In terms of their design, the inner and outer CV joints are very similar.

Half shaft.
Clamp and boot.
Clip.
Hinge housing.
Separator.
Ball.
Retaining and cone ring.
Spring washer.

Thanks to this device, the elements are capable of transmitting torque to the wheels at an angle of up to 45 degrees (not only in the horizontal, but also in the vertical plane).

Installation of new hinges

After disassembling the drive, it is necessary to install new parts and reassemble the transmission in the reverse order. Replacement is done as follows:

The small clamp is put on the axle shaft first, followed by a new boot. The clamp must be placed around the end of the casing and tightened. It is better to turn the boot in the other direction so as not to interfere with the installation of the hinge.
Add SHRUS-4 lubricant to the hinge mechanism. According to the instructions, there should be at least 40 cm³ in the outer grenade, and 80 cm³ of thick lubricant in the inner grenade.
Place the grenade on the shaft, making sure the splines match. Using a wooden adapter, press it as far as possible with gentle hammer blows.
Pull the boot onto the grenade, apply a large clamp and tighten it. In the same order, the operation is performed on the other side of the axle shaft.

Now the drive assembly can be put into place. In order not to confuse the hinges, you should follow the mark placed on the axle during disassembly. The assembly is mounted into place from the inspection ditch, the splined part of the internal grenade being inserted first. To seat it in the slots all the way, you will have to rest the axle on the lower lever and apply several blows with a hammer through a piece of wood from the other side. Further assembly proceeds in reverse order.

How to determine a breakdown?

The grenade is a ball bearing, the cages of which have transverse grooves. Due to this, the angle between the driven and driven axle shaft changes. Thus, the CV joint not only transmits torque, but also changes the angle between the axle shafts. In view of this, over time, it develops. In places where the parts do not fit tightly, backlash and extraneous noise are formed. In fact, this is accompanied by a characteristic crunch. It occurs due to large wear on the balls that move along the grooves. The crunch can appear both during straight-line movement and when turning. In the latter case, most likely, the external grenade of the Kalina requires replacement. This sign should not be ignored, since the bearing may fall apart at high speed.

Front suspension CV joint design

The Lada Kalina car has front-wheel drive, which receives torque using a gearbox regardless of the angle of rotation. Front suspension drives (left and right) - consist of two working joints of equal angular velocities and a connecting shaft that provides connection between them. The left short shaft is made of a special steel bar, and the right long shaft is made of durable steel pipe. The shank of the inner joint housing is connected via a spline to the differential side gear. Torque is transmitted from the hinge to the drive shaft at the required angles. A feature of the design of the internal CV joint of the Lada Kalina is that, in addition to transmitting torque at several angles, it allows movement along the axis of the hinge body and the drive shaft of the suspension when moving.

With proper operation and timely maintenance of the vehicle, the joints can last up to 100 thousand km. According to statistics, external hinges are prone to failure more often than internal ones, which is primarily due to external factors.

Let's get to work. Dismantling the CV joint

First of all, put the car on the handbrake (or install anti-rollbacks). Then we remove the wheel bolts and hub nut. The latter may not be supplied, so we use an extension cord. Next, place the car on a jack, lift its front part and remove the wheel. Then we find two bolts that secure the grenade to the steering knuckle.

Now we twist the steering wheel to its extreme position (so that the disc looks out of the wheel arch). Pull back the steering knuckle along with the shock absorber strut. Next, remove the outer part of the hub with the external “grenade”. If it is tight, you can use a hammer. But you need to hit through a wooden block, otherwise the part will be seriously damaged.

Next (if it is an external hinge) remove the old boot and clamp. Now you need to get the “grenade” itself out of the hub. To do this, you can use a puller or hit the CV joint with a hammer. In this case, you need to rotate its axle shafts.

If it is intended to replace the internal “grenade” on the Kalina, all operations are carried out in a similar way. The only thing is that the part is removed from the box using a pry bar, without hitting it with a hammer.

In what cases is it necessary to replace the inner CV joint?

Replacing the internal CV joint on front-wheel drive VAZ vehicles is required if the following symptoms are present:

Crunching and knocking noises when driving and accelerating in a straight line;
Vibration and shock when changing gears;
Significant play when testing by hand;
If the “grenade” fails completely, the vehicle cannot move further.

» alt=»»> The main reason for the malfunction of the VAZ “grenade” is the entry of water and dirt through the hole in the torn boot. The second possible cause of failure is a sharp press on the gas with the wheels fully turned, although in this case you risk killing the external rather than the internal grenade.

In addition to the above, replacing the internal CV joint on VAZ-2110 and other models may be necessary if the quality of the previously installed joint is poor.

How to extend the resource?

Typically, these bearings travel 250-300 thousand kilometers or more. They have a very durable construction. However, there are several factors that can significantly reduce their durability. This is the condition of the anther. It is because of this that water, dust, and sand get inside. As a result, the lubricant turns into a thick abrasive, which has a destructive effect on the bearing. How to prevent this? During operation, you should periodically check the condition of the boot on the CV joint. If it has cracks or tears, it needs to be replaced immediately.

How to remove the internal grenade of a Priora

Do you hear a characteristic crunch when turning? It's time to change the constant velocity joint(s) (CV joints, aka "grenades").

When performing any maintenance or during repair work on elements of the chassis, steering, as well as during a routine inspection, cracks were discovered on the boot of the outer CV joint (constant velocity joint, in everyday life - a “grenade”). After cracks, usually the boot breaks and dust and dirt gets into the CV joint housing, and this is a direct path to replacing the joint assembly, which is expensive and not justified. Therefore, to avoid this circumstance, it is necessary to replace the boot(s) in a timely manner.

To perform this operation you will need the following tools: a 17 mm wrench, a 30 mm wrench, a pry bar and a wheel wrench.

For clarity, as well as for simplicity, we replace the boot on the removed drive shaft. For this:

1. Install wheel chocks under the rear wheels and tighten the parking brake lever. We tear off the wheel mounting bolts, jack up the desired side and place a special support stand under the car. Finally unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the wheel.

How to replace a grenade on a Lada Priora car?

According to the manufacturer's recommendation, replacing a grenade on a Priora means installing a new front wheel drive assembly - 2 CV joints and an axle shaft on each side. Since a new unit costs a lot of money, the cost of the work is too large. Therefore, in practice, only the worn part of a given unit is replaced - the outer or inner grenade, or even both at once. If you know how to change these parts yourself, you can save a lot on car service costs.

When is replacement required?

The hinge mechanisms of the Lada Priora, which transmit rotation from the engine to the front wheels, are considered quite reliable and in some cases last 100-150 thousand km. Grenades should be replaced in the following cases:

The car's mileage is more than 100 thousand km;
the parts of the unit have become unusable, as evidenced by crunching sounds when turning the front wheels.

The first type of replacement is preventative. Recommended for motorists for whom a car is a tool for making money, which must be constantly in combat readiness and serve without fail. Replacement due to wear is a more common option; it is practiced by most Priora owners.

In order to change expensive CV joint parts as rarely as possible, it is important to promptly detect torn boots, through which dirt and dust enter the mechanism. Grenades cannot be repaired; they only need to be replaced. It is much easier and cheaper to replace leaky anthers so that the assembly lasts as long as possible.

Preparing for work

To replace the grenades, you need a car lift or an inspection ditch, since some of the disassembly work is performed from below. The following tools and devices will be required:

standard set of socket heads with a knob;
mount;
open-end wrenches;
metalworking tools, which include screwdrivers, hammer and pliers;
a device that helps press the steering rod ball pin out of its socket in the strut.

If you don’t have a steering rod puller, then it’s easy to find one from fellow car enthusiasts or just buy one; it’s inexpensive. This is a steel cylinder with a slot and a bottom into which an extrusion bolt is screwed. To carry out the replacement in the inspection hole, you will also need a jack with a wheel wrench to lift the car. To completely disassemble the unit, it is advisable to have a vice and purchase CV joint-4 thick lubricant.

Disassembly procedure

The first operation is not removing the wheel, but unscrewing the large wheel bearing nut. It is caulked, so it will be much more difficult to loosen when the car is raised. After this, the wheel bolts are loosened and the car is raised with a jack.

Do not forget to place reliable supports under the rear wheels to secure the car.

If the Priora has a metal sump protection installed, then it also needs to be removed in advance. In addition, it does not hurt to partially empty the gearbox oil sump to avoid liquid lubricant leaking through the open hole after removing the drive.

Further steps are carried out according to the following algorithm:

When the drive assembly is removed from the car, it must be completely disassembled and worn elements, including anthers, must be replaced. Disassembly begins with them, for which it is necessary to loosen the fastening clamps and move the rubber boot, and then clamp the axle shaft in a vice closer to the end with which work will be carried out.

When it is known that the grenade needs to be replaced, there is no need to stand on ceremony with it and you just need to knock it off the slots with a hammer, holding it with your hand at the other end, and then remove the boot. The second grenade is dismantled in the same way, only the axle shaft must be moved in a vice and clamped closer to the hinge. If, for various reasons, the grenade needs to be kept in normal condition, then it must be knocked down carefully, using a wooden handle.

Installation of new hinges

After disassembling the drive, it is necessary to install new parts and reassemble the transmission in the reverse order. Replacement is done as follows:

The small clamp is put on the axle shaft first, followed by a new boot. The clamp must be placed around the end of the casing and tightened. It is better to turn the boot in the other direction so as not to interfere with the installation of the hinge.
Add SHRUS-4 lubricant to the hinge mechanism. According to the instructions, there should be at least 40 cm³ in the outer grenade, and 80 cm³ of thick lubricant in the inner grenade.
Place the grenade on the shaft, making sure the splines match. Using a wooden adapter, press it as far as possible with gentle hammer blows.
Pull the boot onto the grenade, apply a large clamp and tighten it. In the same order, the operation is performed on the other side of the axle shaft.

Symptoms of a problem

The operation of a CV joint is always associated with the impact of enormous loads. Despite the use of high-strength materials in the design of the unit, it can sometimes fail. The following reasons contribute to this:

Use of low quality materials in the manufacture of assembly parts, use of counterfeit or defective spare parts.
Lack of lubricant inside the mechanism or its poor quality.
Water or abrasive debris getting inside the mechanism due to damage to the boot.
Excessive load on the mechanism due to poor road conditions or aggressive driving style.
Long-term operation, during which the life of the parts is exhausted.

A malfunction of the internal CV joint is manifested by the following symptoms:

A characteristic crunching sound when hitting obstacles, starting from a stop or sharp acceleration.
Jerking and vibration during acceleration.
Play in the joints of the hinge when the wheel is hanging.