Cars with front-wheel drive have a shaft with two grenades, through which torque is transmitted from the gearbox to the wheels. The mechanism tends to wear out, and it may be necessary to replace the outer CV joint on a VAZ 2114. The repair does not require special knowledge from the car owner who decided to service the car himself, and following the instructions for replacing the outer CV joint on a VAZ 2114 with your own hands, you can do it correctly.
This video clearly shows the process of replacing the internal grenade:
Symptoms of outer CV joint failure
Signs of mechanism failure are similar to an internal grenade:
- Crunch . While driving, turning the wheels and pressing hard on the gas, you will hear a distinct crunching sound in the front axle area. A common problem with outer CV joint failure is a torn boot during operation. If there is a suspicion of a malfunction, to diagnose it, just turn the wheel out and look behind it. When the rubber band covering the moving part breaks, dust and dirt begin to get into the mechanism. Because of this, the lubricant thickens and loses its properties, while acting as an abrasive and increasing production on the balls inside the part.
- Backlash . This also happens due to the development of the mechanism. In this case, vibration will be felt on the body when the car moves. To be sure of the problem, you need to grab the drive and swing it in different directions. If play is felt, it means the part is broken.
Remember that it is extremely unsafe to continue driving in such situations. You can damage your car by increasing the cost of repairs. It’s better to go to the nearest service center or call a tow truck.
How to check the CV joint? Signs of malfunctions and methods for checking the “grenade”
Front-wheel drive cars are very popular all over the world. Some motorists prefer front-wheel drive rather than rear-wheel drive cars, considering them more convenient and reliable. Front-wheel drive vehicles use MacPherson strut or multi-link suspension. Both of them have a number of positive aspects, they are reliable and durable, and besides, they are not expensive to repair, what else do you need? However, like everything in this world, front-wheel drive is not without its drawbacks; owners of such cars have to more often change ball joints, front wheel bearings, as well as CV joints (constant velocity joints), which, by the way, will be discussed today in my article .
CV joints, or “grenades” as they are also called, cause a lot of trouble for car owners, so it is not surprising that they are sometimes called the “weakest point” of front-wheel drive. Despite the durable materials used in the production of “grenades”, as well as various coatings, due to friction and impacts that occur on the front suspension, CV joints quite often fail. A banal rupture of the CV joint boot can lead to complete failure of this expensive part. In order to prevent CV joint malfunction and not end up with expensive repairs, you should carry out a visual inspection of the chassis from time to time, and also monitor the integrity of the CV joint boot. Today I will talk about how to check the CV joint; if you suspect its malfunction, you will learn about the causes and signs of a “grenade” malfunction.
Constant velocity joints can be internal (installed in the gearbox and transmit torque from the transmission to the external CV joint), as well as external (connected to the wheel hub and transmit torque directly to the wheel, through the hub). The service life of both is different, despite the apparent similarity. The reason is that the external “grenades” come into contact with the wheels, from which they very often receive serious impacts. In addition, the rubber boot of the CV joint is very soft and is susceptible to destruction as a result of “rubber aging”, exposure to petroleum products, temperature changes, etc. After the boot is damaged, moisture and sand get onto the internal rubbing parts of the joints, which very quickly damage them. external.
Necessary tool
If you decide to do the repairs yourself, you will need the following tools to disassemble the car:
- Open-end wrenches for 17, 19. But it is better to have a full set on hand;
- Set of heads and knobs;
- Wheelbrace and jack;
- Pliers;
- Screwdriver;
- Hammer;
- Rag and gloves.
Useful : How to replace the internal grenade on a VAZ 2114?
Also make sure you have a complete replacement kit: grenade, boot, CV joint grease and two clamps. For convenience, you can drive onto a pit or overpass, and for safety reasons, set the car to the parking brake and put supports under the wheels.
How to install a new CV joint on a VAZ.
Be sure to follow this sequence for installing new parts:
- Small clamp.
- Grenade boot.
- Large clamp.
- Retaining ring.
- The CV joint itself.
First, we clean the drive shaft from dust, dirt and old grease.
Most CV joints come with lubricant, a boot, two clamps and sometimes a new hub nut. If suddenly there is no lubricant in the kit, it is better to use graphite lubricant, and if it is not available, then simple lithol.
First of all, we put on a small collar. Then the boot (it should go behind the limiting washer) and a large clamp. Then we put a retaining ring on the drive shaft. Now open the tube of lubricant and completely squeeze it into the grenade. Now it's time to put the CV joint on the drive. Because of the locking ring, it will be difficult to insert the drive into the grenade, so we take a hammer and lightly, trying not to damage the thread, press the grenade into place. Now you need to put the boot on the CV joint and tighten the clamps.
Assembly occurs in reverse disassembly sequence, but there is one nuance! Do not overtighten the hub nut! This may cause the bearing to hum. The hub nut must be tightened with a force of 225.0–250.0 N*m. Of course, few people have a torque wrench. So, tighten the nut tightly, but not with all your might. In theory, a force of a maximum of 25 kg will need to be applied to a meter-long knob. But, the extension pipe will spring back under such force, so how can you describe it exactly? But obviously there is no need to jump with weight.
I hope I helped you. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments.
The process of replacing the outer CV joint
Having prepared everything you need, you can figure out how to replace the outer CV joint. This is done according to the following points:
- Remove the decorative cover (if any) from the car disk and flare the hub bearing nut.
- We take a 30mm socket, a wrench and preferably an extension to provide greater leverage. We take off the nut.
- Jack up the car and remove the front wheel.
- For convenience, unscrew the brake caliper. This is done with a 17 key. The bolts are located on the back of the hub.
- We spread the pads with a screwdriver and remove the caliper along with the bracket securing it to the hub.
- To press out the steering tip, we need to unscrew the nut with a 19mm wrench, and then apply force to knock it up.
- We unscrew the two 17mm bolts that secure the ball joint.
- Now you can completely unscrew the hub nut.
- We pull the hub towards ourselves, removing the CV joint from it.
- Many car enthusiasts carry out the replacement process without removing the drive from the car. But if you are doing this in the garage, then for convenience it is better to remove it and move it to the workbench. If you have removed the drive from the box, plug the hole with a rag to prevent excess oil from leaking out.
- If the grenade boot is not torn, then use pliers to unclench the large clamp and, prying it up with a screwdriver, remove it.
- We carry out a similar process with a small clamp and move the cover down.
- We begin to knock down the old part with a hammer. Hit on different sides to remove the CV joint evenly.
- We clean the drive splines from grease to see the retaining rings.
- We replace the old ring with a new one, which comes with the grenade.
- We fill approximately 80 cm3 of lubricant into the CV joint cavity and install it on the drive. It is better to do this through a drift made of soft metals or through a block. This will help prevent damage to the new part.
- We install a new boot and place the clamps. Replacing the grenade boot is required in all cases of repair, even if the old one has slight wear. The fastener of each should be directed against the direction of the vehicle. Then we crimp them with pliers.
At this point, the repair process is completed and the entire chassis can be assembled in the reverse order.
Causes of CV joint failure
- Factory defect (marriage), low quality metal;
- Violations of installation rules during CV joint replacement;
- Lack of graphite lubricant or its complete absence. Lubricant may leak if the boot is damaged while the car is moving;
- Damaged boots or their poor quality, as a result of which dirt and sand got onto the rubbing elements of the CV joint, which did “their job”;
- Bad roads, bumps, careless driving on a bad road;
- Natural wear and tear of parts (for example, when a CV joint “dies” on a car over the years, there is nothing surprising here).
Cost of outer CV joint
If you are faced with the task of choosing a new part, it is best to choose a product from the manufacturer, that is, choose a genuine spare part. Most often, they have a price slightly higher than analogue ones, but are distinguished by excellent product quality.
But check the article number, as some auto stores may sell you a Chinese part with a box that is very similar to the original. The part should go under the number 21080-2215012-86. The price of the set will be about 1400 rubles .
If you want to purchase analog parts, then after reading the reviews, you can identify three quality companies:
- HOLA – 1200 rubles;
- GKN – 1600 rubles;
- KRAFT – 1150 rubles.
Before purchasing, it is best to study the reviews of the store where you want to purchase the part. This way you will be completely sure that you are buying a quality spare part. And in this article we presented prices for internal grenades of the VAZ 2114 from 10 manufacturers.
Why do you need a CV joint?
Today, CV joints are one of the most efficient mechanisms that smoothly transmit torque from the engine through the gearbox to the turning drive wheels without loss of power.
Typically, the outer and inner joints are attached to a splined shaft using thrust rings and circlips. The outer one connects to the wheel hub. It transmits torque to the wheel and ensures turning. The internal one is adapted to axial movements and is installed on the drive from the gearbox side. From it rotation is transmitted to the drive shaft. In this case, the rotation speed of the input and output shafts is the same; it does not change depending on the angle of operation of the hinge.
Cost of replacement at a car service center
If you do not want to do the repairs yourself, you can contact a car service in your city. Prices for repair work can range from 800 to 1,500 rubles, if we consider the average prices in Russia.
If you are limited in finances and want to save almost half of the repair budget, changing the external CV joint on a VAZ 2114 yourself is not so difficult. But in any case, approach the choice of spare parts carefully, since if you buy a part that is obviously not of high quality, you may again encounter the problem of a worn grenade in the near future. Try to check the condition of the anthers at least once a month, this will help extend the life of the mechanism. You will have time to replace the outer CV joint boot in time and the mechanism will not have time to become dirty. Well, if the connection is severely worn out and begins to make extraneous sounds, it is better to begin repairs immediately, otherwise you may create a threat to other road users.
How to check CV joint
- First way . Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right or left, then shift into gear and try to quickly move away. If during such a jerk you hear a crunch, most likely the “grenade” is gradually failing, or already requires replacement. Listen to which side of the CV joint crunches and get ready to replace it.
- Second way . We lift the car on a lift or hang the front wheel (you can hear a crunch on the side with the bark). Next, we perform a visual inspection and also check the backlash. There shouldn't be any play, maybe just minimal.
- Third way . We hang the front end or lift the car on a lift. We turn on first gear or turn on “D”. If the CV joint is faulty, you will hear a characteristic distinct crunching sound when the wheels rotate.
Replacing a CV joint is not an easy task, and not everyone can do it, so before you replace a CV joint with your own hands, you need to realistically assess your capabilities and knowledge in this area. If there is no time and desire, it is better to entrust the replacement of the “grenade” to professionals. They will do the work quickly and efficiently, and you will most likely be provided with a guarantee for the work done.
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What lubricant to use for CV joints
The main tasks of lubricants used in CV joints are protection against friction and prevention of corrosion. Also, the lubricant must be inert with respect to the polymer boots, which prevent moisture and debris from entering the mechanism. Most of the above requirements meet the following types of lubricants:
1. Lithium. These are viscous yellowish compounds, which at low temperatures acquire an even thicker consistency, making it difficult to spread on parts. They are able to significantly reduce friction and loads acting on the hinge elements, protect them from moisture and neutralize accidentally trapped dirt. Their only drawback is the ability to dissolve some types of anthers made from organic polymers. One of the representatives of this type of lubricant is the domestic Litol-24, which is replaced after a run of 100 thousand km.
2. Based on molybdenum disulfide. More universal lubricants that are characterized by increased resistance to corrosion. Their composition has a reduced content of organic acids, thereby reducing aggressiveness towards polymer products. Such lubricants are recommended for use in CV joints of cars of any manufacturer. Their main drawback is sensitivity to moisture ingress when the seal of the boot is broken, due to which the lubricant loses its properties. Domestic manufacturers produce lubricants with molybdenum disulfide under the general name SHRUS-4.
3. Barium grease. It is resistant to moisture getting inside the mechanism, successfully resists corrosion, and is also neutral to any polymers from which the anthers are made. Its main drawback is poor resistance to low temperatures. Lubrication is currently not very common due to its high cost. All domestic compounds manufactured using this technology are labeled under the name ShRB-4.
Symptoms of a problem
The operation of a CV joint is always associated with the impact of enormous loads. Despite the use of high-strength materials in the design of the unit, it can sometimes fail. The following reasons contribute to this:
- Use of low quality materials in the manufacture of assembly parts, use of counterfeit or defective spare parts.
- Lack of lubricant inside the mechanism or its poor quality.
- Water or abrasive debris getting inside the mechanism due to damage to the boot.
- Excessive load on the mechanism due to poor road conditions or aggressive driving style.
- Long-term operation, during which the life of the parts is exhausted.
