Malfunctions of the VAZ 2109 ignition coil: we repair it ourselves

Today we will look at the design and diagrams of ignition systems for VAZ cars of all major models. Since carburetor versions of VAZ are practically history, we will dwell in detail on the ignition systems of injection cars. Their ignition system is based on an electronic ignition module. We also recommend that you carefully consider the choice of spark plugs and the quality of high-voltage wires, because the quality of the spark and, accordingly, the operation of the ignition system as a whole will depend on them. The information is intended as a reference guide for self-repairing a car.

Examination

If you notice signs of a problem with the ignition coil, or have to deal with a situation where the engine “died,” be sure to check the condition of this element.

As you test, you will be able to determine what caused the coil to fail and how the problems can be corrected.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Z5cUQhKBZm0

Ignition coil

How to check the device? The instructions are not complicated, even a beginner can handle it.

First, let's check the condition of the unit, and then check for correctness of the resistance of the coil itself.

1. If the engine cannot be started, make sure that the coil itself is producing a spark at all. To do this, the central wire is removed from the distributor and a spare spark plug is connected to it.
2. Now take the spark plug with pliers and place the metal casing on the breaker or motor.
3. If a spark does not appear when the engine starter is turned, there is a malfunction in the ignition system.
4. So check the power to the coil, or rather its presence. For this you will need a multimeter. One terminal is connected to contact B on the coil, and the second goes to ground. Turn on the ignition. If there is no voltage, the culprit is the ignition switch.
5. You can start the engine in emergency mode. To do this, the plus from the battery is thrown onto contact B of the coil.

If there is voltage but there is no spark, check whether the primary winding is intact. To do this, the side low-voltage wires are disconnected from the coil and resistance measurements are taken with a multimeter. Then the secondary winding is checked.

ignition coil

We will tell you about this procedure in more detail.

Multimeter for testing

Checking coil resistance

1. Unplug your car. To do this, simply disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Disconnect all wires and leads going to and from the coil.
3. Be sure to arm yourself with the necessary tools and a tester. A universal multimeter or ohmmeter will work fine.
4. Take measurements on the primary winding. To do this, the tester probes must be connected to the low-voltage terminals located at the edges of the coil. Before doing this, do not forget to clean the terminals from accumulated dirt and traces of oxidation. Surely they formed during the operation of the car.
5. Record the data.
6. Now the resistance of the secondary winding is checked. To do this, you need to transfer one ohmmeter probe to terminal B of the coil, and the second to the high voltage.
7. Note your results.
8. The last stage of the test involves measuring the insulation resistance to ground. To do this, you need to connect one terminal of your tester to ground (this is the ignition coil housing), and connect the second one in turn to all three terminals - a pair of low-voltage terminals and one high-voltage one located in the middle of the device. If the coil is working properly, then in all three measurement cases you will get a resistance of at least 50 ohms.
9. Check the table against the previously recorded data.

[media= https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2F4BDExybgs]

We measure the resistance of the ignition coil

Repair

In fact, the only way to repair a faulty ignition coil on a carburetor or injection VAZ 2109 is to replace the device.

Here you just need to choose which element will replace your old coil.

• MZATE-2. This is a standard coil, which all VAZ 2109s were equipped with from the factory. It costs about 600 rubles and serves well;
• An excellent alternative option, characterized by reliability, durability and operational efficiency. But it costs about 1800-2000 rubles;
• Valeo. Something between the factory and Bosch version, which has good characteristics and positive reviews. Today such a reel costs an average of 1,500 rubles.

The coil is the most important element of the ignition system; if it fails, you can forget about traveling about your business.

How to check an ignition coil: 3 proven methods

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How to check the ignition coil (IKZ) with your own hands

The car jerks, there is no traction, vibration is felt, or the engine is rough; all these are symptoms of improper operation of the individual ignition coil (IIC). Other signs of a faulty ignition coil are the presence of errors 0301, 0302, 0303 and 0304, indicating misfire in one of the cylinders. Let's look at a few simple ways to check the ignition coil with your own hands.

It is worth noting that the process of checking IKZ on modern Lada cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina and Priora) does not have significant differences. All actions are performed in the same way.

Checking the ignition coil on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

If such malfunctions occur in the operation of the engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars such as the disappearance of a spark or a weak spark, unstable idling, inability to adjust idle speed, difficult starting or impossibility of starting the engine, failures and jerks when starting and in motion, etc., It makes sense to check the functionality of the ignition coil.

Required Tools

- 8 mm spanner or open-end wrench

— a tester (multimeter or similar device) with an ohmmeter mode (preferably also a megohmmeter)

Preparatory work

You can check the ignition coil on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars without removing it from the car.

- remove the negative terminal from the battery

- disconnect the high-voltage wire from the ignition coil

- disconnect the wires leading to the two terminals of the coil

To do this, use an 8 mm wrench to unscrew the nuts securing the wires to terminals “K” and “B”. We disconnect the wires, remembering their position, so as not to confuse them when installing them back.

— Check the serviceability of the primary winding of the ignition coil

Checking the primary winding of the ignition coil of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 To do this, connect one tester probe to terminal “B” and the second probe to terminal “K” - the terminal of the primary winding. We turn on the device in ohmmeter mode. The resistance of a serviceable primary winding of the ignition coil should be close to zero (0.4 - 0.5 Ohm). If it is lower, then there is a short circuit, if higher, there is a “break” in the winding.

— Check the serviceability of the secondary (high-voltage) winding of the ignition coil

Checking the secondary winding of the ignition coil of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 To do this, connect one tester probe to terminal “B” of the ignition coil, and the second probe to the terminal for the high-voltage wire. We measure resistance. For a working secondary winding it should be 4.5 - 5.5 kOhm.

— Check the insulation resistance to ground

For such a test, it is necessary that the multimeter has a megohmmeter mode (or a separate megohmmeter is needed) and can measure significant resistance.

To do this, we attach one tester probe to terminal “B” of the ignition coil, and press the second probe to its body. The insulation resistance must be very high - 50 mOhm or higher.

If at least one of the three checks shows a malfunction, the ignition coil should be replaced.

Notes and additions

— Ignition coils installed on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars can be of two types: dry with a closed magnetic circuit (3122.3705) and oil-filled with an open magnetic circuit (8352.12, 027.3705, 27.3705, 27.3707-01, ATE1721). The winding resistances for them are slightly different. Coil 3122.3705 – primary winding 0.43±0.04 Ohm, secondary 4.08±0.4 kOhm. Coils 8352.15, etc. – primary winding 0.42±0.05 Ohm, secondary 5±1 kOhm. Measurements were carried out at +25 degrees.

Twokarburators VK - More information on the topic in our VKontakte group, on Facebook Twokarburators FS, in Odnoklassniki - Twokarburators OK and in Yandex Zen - Twokarburators DZ

— The procedure for connecting high-voltage wires to the distributor cover on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

— Malfunctions of the contactless ignition system of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

— Malfunctions of the distributor of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

— Checking high-voltage wires on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

— Setting the ignition timing on the engines of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Comparative test repair

— Checking the ignition coil of the ignition system of carburetor engines of VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107 cars

What to do next

So, the reason why there is no spark from the coil has been discovered. Now we need to decide what to do next. There are two main options:

• repair the faulty element;
• purchase a new coil, and then replace it.

Repairing a unit is a rather complex process. Here it is necessary to disassemble the mechanism into its component elements, then check them for various chips, scratches and other defects, and then clean up the damage. Then you need to restore the shell using glue or a special composition.

To replace the coil, you need to select a model with similar parameters.

It is important to connect the connecting wires correctly, otherwise there is a high risk of overheating and a short circuit. If a spark appears during the test, and the data obtained by the ohmmeter and ammeter are within normal limits, then you should look for a problem in the remaining elements of the ignition system.

To summarize, we can say that several elements are responsible for starting a car engine. At the same time, the main reason here is that there is no spark from the ignition coil. Before solving this problem, it is necessary to understand why exactly this situation arose. You should carefully check the spark plugs, wiring and the coil itself. Having discovered where exactly the problem lies, it is necessary to replace or repair the faulty element. On the other hand, it requires special equipment and instruments, so if you don’t have all this, you should entrust repairs and diagnostics to the hands of professionals .

Below is a video about what to do if your VAZ does not start:

A situation in which the engine does not start the first time, or does not start at all, can hardly be called pleasant. Experienced motorists know that any malfunction of the ignition system leads to partial and often even complete failure of the car engine.

Flooding when there is a spark and the starter is rotating

Experienced motorists are faced with situations when a spark appears, the starter rotates, but the lower part of the spark plugs is filled with gasoline. Do not be deluded by the presence of a fire, since this event can occur irregularly under pressure and can be lost while the engine is running.

The cause of the event appears to be excessive pressure in the cylinders. It will be possible to identify the event and the factors that motivate it by monitoring the car on a stand that simulates a combustion chamber.

We recommend paying attention to the valve timing, because their failure will be the cause of wet electrodes. In injection internal combustion engines, motorists should check the functionality of the bypass valve located on the fuel rail. If its malfunctions are ruled out, you will need to find out the gasoline pressure in the rail, because the manufacturer regulates this parameter

Sharp fluctuations and going beyond the specified interval (larger/smaller sides) can block the start of the internal combustion engine or stimulate flooding of contacts for spark ignition

If its malfunctions are ruled out, you will need to find out the gasoline pressure in the rail, because the manufacturer regulates this parameter. Sharp fluctuations and going beyond the specified interval (larger/smaller sides) can block the start of the internal combustion engine or stimulate flooding of contacts for spark ignition.

Diagnostics will need to be carried out for the sensors of the electronic control system and for the injectors. An example of a failure is when the coolant temperature sensor sends incorrect data. In such a situation, the control unit unreasonably over-enriches the fuel mixture. Much less often, the culprit of incorrect impulses is a failed electronic control unit or a malfunction of its software. In this case, problems will appear not only with the ignition.

Ignition settings

When setting up the ignition, you will need to do the most important thing - install the shafts according to the marks so that the gas distribution functions synchronously with the operation of the piston group. This is the first thing you should do before you start adjusting the ignition. It is worth noting that there should not be any particular difficulties during setup, especially on VAZ 2108-21099 cars. The thing is that the ignition distributor on the engines of these machines can only be installed in one position. Moreover, the ignition switch does not undergo any settings during this procedure, since it does not have any. The distributor body rotates around its axis to make more precise adjustments. And this turns out to be enough. To accurately set the torque, you can use a simple circuit that uses a simple LED as an indicator. The Hall sensor is disconnected from the system, and positive power is supplied to its negative terminal. An LED is switched on between “+” and the signal LED, and a 2 kOhm resistance is connected in series with it to reduce the voltage. But the plus of the Hall sensor is connected to ground. Now all that remains is to slowly rotate the distributor housing. The moment when the diode lights up will be the desired one.

Main malfunctions of the ignition module

Perhaps the main indicator of a malfunction is when there is no spark at the spark plugs. However, there are other signs of unstable module operation:

• No dynamics when accelerating. You can feel obvious dips at the moment of a sharp increase in speed.
• The car does not have the usual power; it even happens that the car simply does not pull uphill.
• Floating idle.
• One of the pairs of cylinders is not working. In this case, most likely there is no current from the ignition coils.

If you encounter similar problems, you should check the spark plugs that do not have a spark, the crankshaft position sensor and the ignition module itself.

Checking the system for functionality

So, it’s best to start with candles that have no spark. This is done in an elementary way and even a person very far from car repair can cope with such a task. For greater clarity, let's divide the whole process into stages:

• The first thing you need to do is unscrew the spark plugs. This is done quite simply. Remove the high-voltage wires and then simply unscrew the spark plugs with a special wrench.
• Now that the spark plugs from which there is no spark have been removed, carefully inspect them. Spare parts should not have carbon deposits or mechanical damage.
• Throw away damaged candles and put new ones in their place; most likely, this will solve the problem. If everything is in order, then there is no spark for another reason.

Next, before proceeding directly to diagnosing the ignition module itself, you should check the block of high-voltage wires that fit to it. Perhaps there is no spark due to their fault. This is done using a special tester. The voltage on the wires during testing should be around 12 volts.

If everything is in order with the wires, most likely there is no spark precisely because the ignition module is faulty. There are many options for checking the functionality of this device. Let us examine in detail the most important of them:

• The most basic one is that you can simply replace the module with one that is known to be functional. Is it true. The problem is that often there is simply nowhere to get an additional module, and buying a new device just to test it is not very smart.
• Another not very difficult way to check is by moving the module. This is done as follows: while the engine is running, move and knock on the device. If the engine's performance changes in any way at this point, most likely the problem is that the necessary contact is missing. In fact, the malfunction is not catastrophic and in this case everything is fixable. At least there is no need to spend money on a new module.
• This option is the most accurate and requires a tester. We put the tester in ohmmeter mode, after which we measure the resistance on the wires, the same high-voltage ones that conduct current. It is necessary to concentrate specifically on the terminals of the ignition module between cylinders 2 and 3 and between the first and second. If the module is working properly, the value should be identical, around 5.4 kOhm.

Preventing ignition module malfunctions

Despite the fact that the ignition module is a very reliable device, cases when it fails still occur.

However, if you use a few simple tips, the device will work much longer:

• Always ensure that high-voltage wires are in the correct order. If they have a resistance higher or lower than required, the ignition coils may fail.
• Timely replacement of spark plugs is also very important. A large gap on these spare parts has a very negative effect on the operation of the module.

Source

How to replace the ignition module on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099

1) The module is not difficult to remove, but there will be problems with checking it, because first of all, special equipment is needed for this, although using a conventional multi-meter you can check the module for functionality (We will describe how the module can be checked in this same article), but first you need to remove it, to do this, first disconnect the wire block from the module (see photo 1) which is attached to it by a latch, so don’t forget to bend the latch on the block, otherwise you can break it off as soon as the block will be disconnected, pick up a wrench and use it to completely unscrew the upper bolt (see photo 2) of the module fastening, then unscrew the side nut (see photo 3, indicated by the red arrow) of the bolt and so as not to lose the bolt, you can remove it like this well, and finally, move lower (Under the car if you can) and there look for the last bolt securing the module in the lower part (see photo 4, the bolt is indicated by an arrow), loosen this bolt a little and then completely remove the ignition module from the car, with To do this, disconnect all four wires that are connected to it, otherwise they will not allow you to remove the module from the car.

THIS IS ONLY ONE METHOD FOR CHECKING A MODULE

!!! DO NOT RUN FOR A NEW IMMEDIATELY!!! THERE ARE MORE METHODS, THIS IS.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=4wHGBUx6x3M

In general, when working with the module, it is recommended to de-energize the on-board system (the network is de-energized by removing the minus terminal from the battery; if you don’t know how to remove the terminal, read the article: “Replacing the battery”, everything is written in paragraph one of that article), you never know what can happen, so safety is paramount, but before de-energizing the system, check the wiring block that is connected to the module and after that you can de-energize it, to check, disconnect it and turn the ignition key until all the devices in the car light up as soon as they light up they pick up a multi-meter and turn on the voltmeter mode on it and measure the voltage on the block, to do this, connect two wires coming from the multi-meter, connect one of the wires to the terminal that is marked (see the wire block, it has these markings on it ) with the letter C, and the other which is marked with the letter D and the device should show a voltage of 12 V, if it shows less or does not show anything at all, then either the battery is discharged or the wiring is faulty, but to check the ignition module itself it is better to do this either using a special device, or changing it to a known-good module, taking it from a neighbor as an example (If he has the same car), or using the same multi-meter, you can try (But even a multi-meter can show incorrect results, therefore, do not rely too much on this method), read about how to do this in the article: “Replacing the module and coil on a VAZ”, namely in that article the item “Note!” read it!

2) Now that the module has been removed, disconnect it from the bracket; to disconnect it, use a wrench and a socket head of a suitable size; in total, the module is attached to the bracket with three nuts (see photo 1), unscrew all these nuts and then you can disconnect the module from the bracket (see photo 2).

1. The new module is installed in its place in the reverse order of removal, but only when installing, first align the new module with the bracket by tightening the three nuts that secure the module to the bracket and something else, when the module is put in its place, the high-voltage wires that you got from the old one disconnected to a new one, you need to connect it in a certain order, that is, on each wire there is a number from 1 to 4 (see small photo below), on the module itself these numbers are also there (Red arrows are indicated, but unfortunately the number 2 is not visible, because her small photo is covered), in addition, with these numbers on the module there are pins (Indicated by blue arrows) to these pins and high-voltage wires must be connected, so connect all the wires to these pins so that the numbers match (That is, the first wire, to pin one, the second wire to terminal two, etc.), if there is a mismatch, the car will not work correctly and may not even start.

Verification procedure

If you detect one or more signs of “dying” of the coil or if it is impossible to start the engine, you should definitely check its performance.
This is necessary in order to find out what nature of the breakdown occurred, and, therefore, begin to eliminate it. Can this be done without instruments? Unfortunately no. Unless you immediately replace the coil with a known good one. At the very least, a regular multimeter will suffice. Such a tester must be kept in the car - its cost is almost symbolic.

In general, verification is relatively easy. It is enough to follow the steps described below, and even a completely inexperienced car enthusiast can handle it.

Contactless - transistor ignition system (BTIS)

Now we have come close to the ignition system of the VAZ 2109. This VAZ car model is equipped with a non-contact ignition system, which has been used since the mid-80s.

In this system, the chopper mechanism has been replaced by a more modern non-contact sensor, which instantly and accurately determines the engine speed and angle of rotation.

Unlike earlier ignition systems, where their operation was based on the mechanical action of parts with each other, the principle of operation of the new ignition system is based on an electrical impulse, which is generated using a non-contact sensor. But first things first.

Device Features

The ignition coil serves to produce a spark coming from the spark plug electrodes. To put it briefly and simply, this is a small transformer that operates in pulse mode and converts 12 volts from the car into 20-30 thousand volts at the output. High-voltage wires are used to transmit the impulse, which also sometimes cause coil malfunctions.

The distributor-type ignition system works simply - the distributor (distributor) receives a low-voltage pulse from the car's network, transmits it to the coil, and it, in turn, transforms the pulse into a high-voltage pulse. Next, the distributor distributes sparks among the cylinders depending on the order of their operation.

Structurally, the VAZ 2109 coil consists of a pair of windings - secondary and primary.

• The primary winding has fewer turns, but wires with a larger cross-section;
• The secondary winding of a coil with a large number of turns, but a smaller wire cross-section.

Windings

Signs of breakdown

Often the spark at the carburetor disappears unexpectedly when the driver is not prepared for such a turn of events. But if you have enough experience and pay close attention to the behavior of your car, you can detect signs of a malfunction before the spark disappears and the engine does not start.

So, why does the spark disappear, what are the reasons and what signs may indicate a failure of the ignition coil?

Approximately 500 kilometers before the coil’s life is over, on a cold engine the device normally starts working only after a couple of minutes of warming up. The engine starts with difficulty, but some people think that the problem is in the idle system. At the same time, the engine begins to behave unstably at low speeds.

This phenomenon occurs within 10-30 seconds, so you don’t always have time to pay attention to it. Another short-term symptom is the active vibration of the engine when starting a cold engine and holding the gas pedal.

This will happen literally for 3-5 seconds, and after pressing the pedal again, everything will return to normal. When accelerating or changing gears at the gearbox, the engine may produce jerks, vibrations, and the dynamics deteriorate for a short time

The downside is that such a symptom may appear for a few moments, but disappears just as quickly. The most obvious sign is the complete failure of the engine to try to start. The spark disappears, and therefore the chances of starting are zero.

How to check the ignition module?

We have already learned what the ignition module is and what are the signs of its malfunction (unstable idling, failures during acceleration, engine twinkling).
In this article we will talk about how to check the ignition module with your own hands.

From personal experience: on the Internet, while reading various forums on this topic, I came across a post that broken high-voltage wires do not affect the ignition module in any way. In fact, faulty high-voltage wires can lead to the fact that a spark, in search of the shortest direction, can be sent to a nearby relay, which contributes to module burnout.

Let's move on directly to checking the ignition module. To correctly and accurately check the ignition module, you need a device such as an oscilloscope. But, as a rule, the average driver does not have anything like this, except for the usual warning light and tester, so our task is to use only these devices that are available to everyone.

Checking the ignition module

Before checking the module itself, we need to check the block of wires coming to it.
To do this, first of all, disconnect the wiring block, take the tester and connect one tester probe to the block at pin A, connect the other probe to engine ground. Turn on the ignition and look at the tester readings: the voltage should be around 12V. If there is no voltage, then you need to check the fuse. going to the ignition module. The next step is to take a 12V test light and connect it to contacts A and B. Turn on the starter and look: the light should blink, if it doesn’t blink, then there is an open circuit on contact A. We perform this operation in the same way with contact B. There are several ways to check the ignition module , and we will look at some of them.

1. The first and easiest way to check a module is to replace the module with a known working one. Everything is simple here: we take the module from the donor’s car and change it. But there are certain disadvantages:

• The donor car may not be available, buying a new module does not suit our task;
• Not every car will have an ignition module: “of course!” - you say, - “from SAMAR this will do.” But not everything is so simple: as a rule, the first Samaras with a 1.5 liter engine are equipped with an ignition module. New Samaras with 1.5 and 1.6 liter engines are often equipped with ignition coils. Let me remind you that the ignition module consists of a switch and an ignition coil. In new Samaras the switch is located in the ECU. Therefore, the module is eliminated as unnecessary, leaving only the coil. Take this fact into account and look for a new donor;
• It is imperative to make sure that the high-voltage wires are in good condition: how to check the high-voltage wires?

Otherwise, there is a high probability that the ignition module will burn out.

2. The next method is the method of moving the module. To do this, we move the block of wires, knock and move the module itself. If, at the moment of our influence on the module, the operation of the engine changes noticeably, then the matter is most likely in poor contact. This malfunction is not catastrophic, so you can try to repair the module yourself: Repairing the ignition module. If the module cannot be repaired, then it must be replaced (Replacing the ignition module).

3. To check we need a tester. Using a tester in ohmmeter mode, we measure the resistance at the paired high-voltage terminals of the ignition module 1 and 4 of the cylinder; and between cylinders 2 and 3. The resistance should be the same but vary around 5.4 kOhm.

Lada 2109 › Logbook › Dual-circuit ignition on the VAZ 2109

I suffered several times in the winter with starting the engine. Even when it’s not cold, but at 0 degrees, you come to start it and the car is silent. You unscrew the damp spark plugs and the battery eventually dies! With a good battery, it starts normally. As it turned out in the end, I had a contact ignition coil B- 117 from the classics. I immediately changed it to a coil from BSZ. And the car started to start and drive much better, but I didn’t stop there and decided to make a dual-circuit ignition with 2 hall sensors, 2 switches and 2 coils from the Volga ZMZ- 406

How to check the ignition module of a VAZ-2114 injector 8 valves

To begin with, I started assembling the distributor because it is the most basic and thinnest part of the system. I took the distributor from OKI as a basis, or an ordinary nine-wheel one. I just had it from the window lying in the garage. I completely disassembled it and started installing the second one. hall sensor directly to the standard platform at an angle of 90 degrees. Marked the approximate position of the 2nd sensor. On the platform there are risks of the approximate position of the middle of the sensor:

Drilled and tapped the threads for the bolts:

Then I carefully cut the hall sensors themselves with a metal cloth so that they do not interfere with each other. It looks something like this:

Then I modified the shaft, replaced the ignition angle advance weights with nine-shaft ones. They are smaller and lighter than those of the Oka, the photo shows Okushinsky weights! And accordingly, I also replaced the springs. The curtain remained the standard Okushinsky one, I didn’t touch it. If you make it from a nine-shaft shaft, then the curtain must also be modified sawing off two opposite ones so that it looks like in the photo:

That's all for the shaft! Next, I cut out a small piece from the distributor body itself to attach the fork of the 2nd hall sensor, drilled a hole and cut a thread for the bolt

Then I put the whole thing together. Here’s what happened:

Note: during assembly it turned out that the platform on which the hall sensors are attached from the Oka is larger than from the 2109 and it turned out to be easier to mount the sensor, so another one +, It is advisable to buy the same sensors themselves in the same store from the same batch as they are slightly different! That's all for now with the distributor!

Then I bought the rest of the necessary parts: 2 coils from the Volga ZMZ-406, a wiring harness for the BSZ 2108, an “Astro” switch, as I already had the same one

I connected the wiring according to the diagram:

Note: when connecting according to scheme 1, the tachometer will show half the revolutions. If you want to make a normal tachometer, then there is also scheme 2, you will need to solder in 2 KD213A diodes. But I did not do this and did it according to scheme 1. And don’t try to connect wires without diodes according to scheme 2; thereby you parallel both coils and it turns out that all 4 spark plugs spark at the same time when both hall sensors are triggered! Tested personally)

I made a metal mount for the coils, but it didn’t turn out very well:

And now about the most important thing: for the system to work well, you need to adjust the synchronization of the hall sensors so that the spark on all cylinders is the same advance. To do this, you need to make the opposite mark on the flywheel, this will be the TDC of the 2nd cylinder. You need to count 64 teeth along the crown from the standard mark. And Using a strobe light, align both marks from the 1st and 2nd cylinders, moving the 2nd hall sensor up and down or both sensors in the direction of the white arrows. To do this, I drilled holes with a thin drill in the sensors to move.

Description of the ignition coil for the VAZ 2109

The characteristics, type and even appearance of the coil differs depending on the car model. Specifically on VAZs, you need to look for the ignition coil under the hood, in the engine compartment. Using special pins, it is attached to the mudguard on the left side and looks like an insulated cylinder. Inside it (or, in mechanics' slang, inside the bobbin) there is a transformer between two windings. It’s worth talking about them in more detail.

In VAZ cars, the initial voltage, which is then converted to high voltage, is 12 volts. First, freedom is given to the primary winding - a small copper wire (130-140 turns). A secondary winding is placed on top of the primary winding, which is also a copper wire, but much thinner. The number of turns on the secondary winding can reach 25 thousand.

Design features

It is possible to understand how the ignition module works only using the example of the entire system. So, it includes the following components:

• Ignition coil in a VAZ 2109 car injector. There are always two coils and this is the very mechanism that generates the current.
• High-voltage key switches, there are also two of them, through them the current goes to the spark plugs, in addition, the controller regulates how long the current will be turned on, it calculates the required time based on the data received from the crankshaft sensor.
• Electronic control unit.
• The body of the device itself is made of durable plastic.

Checking the ignition system of the VAZ-2106

Prepare a Phillips and flathead screwdriver, a test lamp or tester, rubber gloves and pliers. Before checking the contact ignition, apply the parking brake or chock the vehicle's wheels.

• First, carefully check the integrity of all elements of the system, as well as the reliability of the connection of high-voltage wires in all areas. They must be tightly seated in the appropriate contacts.

Turn on the ignition and check the current flow into the system. To do this, connect one wire of the lamp or tester to ground, and the second to the “+B” contact of the coil. The lamp should be on and the tester should show a voltage of more than 11 V. Turn off the ignition.

• To test the high voltage wire, put on rubber gloves and remove the center wire from the distributor cover. Install a working spark plug into the cable end, and then press it against the mass with the metal part. Turn the ignition on and turn the crankshaft. If there is a discharge on the spark plug, then the wire is OK. In the case where there is no spark, you need to look for the cause of the malfunction in the distributor.

To check the performance of the distributor, remove the cover and inspect it for any damage, as well as the integrity of the carbon contact. If defects are found, the cover should be replaced with a new analogue.

Look at the distributor rotor. The runner must not have any damage. Sometimes the rotor housing can break through to ground. Also check the functionality of the noise suppression resistor installed in the rotor. If there is the slightest doubt, it is recommended to replace the rotor.

• After this, it is necessary to check the presence of a gap between the contacts of the MP. First, install the crankshaft using a special wrench in a position in which the upper end of the distributor shaft cam will be exactly in the center of the textolite pad of the rotating contact lever. Measure the gap between the MP contacts, its specified value is 0.35-0.4 mm. Make appropriate adjustments if necessary. After this, check the advance angle.

After completing the above steps and correcting any identified problems or replacing damaged components, start the engine. If in this case the motor does not work, try replacing the capacitor located in the breaker.

Useful tips

• If the noise suppression resistance installed in the distributor rotor fails, it can be temporarily replaced with a spring from a regular ballpoint pen.

What should you do if you discover a breakdown of the ignition switch or a broken wiring along the way and as a result, power does not flow to the ignition coil? In this case, you can go to the nearest service center by connecting the emergency power supply using an additional wire. Connect one end of it to the positive terminal of the battery, and the other to the “+B” terminal of the coil. However, make sure that there is no sparking. If strong spark discharges occur, immediately disconnect the wire. This means there is a problem with the wiring and this option will not work.

Today we will look at the design and diagrams of ignition systems for VAZ cars of all major models. Since carburetor versions of VAZ are practically history, we will dwell in detail on the ignition systems of injection cars. Their ignition system is based on an electronic ignition module. We also recommend that you carefully consider the choice of spark plugs and the quality of high-voltage wires, because the quality of the spark and, accordingly, the operation of the ignition system as a whole will depend on them. The information is intended as a reference guide for self-repairing a car.

how to check whether current is flowing into the coil of a VAZ 2109 electronic ignition | Topic author: Anton

Ilya Buy a simple voltmeter tester!

Vladimir, there are two crap sticking out there, the terminals are called one labeled B+, the second K on B, 12 volts should appear after turning on the ignition. K is connected to a transistor switch, which is most likely what you got screwed

Zhanna, now the question is asked more correctly!