Repair and replacement of the stove faucet on a VAZ 2109

Purpose of the heater valve on the VAZ 2109

On the VAZ 2109 there are two circles of coolant movement: large and small. When the coolant flows in a large circle, it, having warmed up in the main radiator, leaves it for the heater radiator and heats it up. An electrically driven fan is installed behind the heating radiator. It blows air through the radiator and forces hot air into the cabin through an air duct system. In this way, the interior of the VAZ 2109 is heated. However, in the warm season there is no need to circulate antifreeze in a large circle.

Using a heating tap, the driver changes the direction of movement of antifreeze

Therefore, drivers switch the heating system to a small circle when the coolant does not enter the heater radiator. To switch, a heating tap is used, the purpose of which is to direct the flow of coolant into the desired pipeline depending on the season.

Heater valve location

The heating valve on the VAZ 2109 is built into the front wall of the engine compartment so that one pair of valve tubes is discharged into the engine compartment, and the second pair is discharged into the cabin, under the center console.

In order to get to the crane, the car owner will first have to dismantle this console. There are no other options.

Heating tap failure and its cause

It is impossible not to notice a breakdown of the heating valve on a VAZ 2109: a puddle of antifreeze appears on the floor of the cabin, on the front passenger side, and a characteristic sweetish smell is clearly felt in the cabin.

There are two reasons why a heating tap breaks:

poor quality faucet. They are equipped with membrane taps, the tightness of which leaves much to be desired. Their service life is very short;
corrosion. It's simple: in the warm season, all motorists turn off the heating tap. They run for three or four months with the tap closed. During this time, the valve stem becomes covered with rust and is literally welded to the body. Sometimes things get so bad that you can only turn a rusted faucet using pliers. Of course, there can be no talk of any tightness after such an operation.

Reasons for the release

The first step is to figure out why the coolant is being thrown out of the expansion tank.

Wear of CO elements. In particular, we are talking about pipes and connecting hoses. They are constantly exposed to high pressure and temperatures. Therefore, over time, their wear and tear is a completely natural phenomenon. As a result, antifreeze begins to be thrown out.
Low quality components. If natural wear and tear is typical for used cars and cooling systems that have been in operation for quite a long time, then when using low-quality components, even on a completely new or updated cooling system, serious problems can arise. An example is simple burrs on the neck of the expansion tank. Because of them, the lid does not fit tightly enough, which leads to a gap and the release of antifreeze.
Expansion tank. Alas, the quality of the plastic from which expansion tanks for the VAZ 2109 are made today leaves much to be desired. Because of it, the plastic simply bursts under high pressure.
Faulty engine. If the engine itself is not working correctly, the coolant may boil. This leads to damage to the thermostat, radiator, and pump.

From this we can conclude that the quality of the CO directly depends on the technical condition of the car and the quality of the components used.

Signs of coolant emission

It is important to understand that coolant can be thrown out not only through the expansion tank cap, but also inside the system. It is important to monitor the condition of the CO and identify signs of a leak in time.

Antifreeze evaporates very quickly, so traces of it are not always visible.

If coolant is released through the reservoir, puddles immediately form under the car.
If liquid enters the cabin due to a malfunction of the CO, this can be determined by the smell. It has a sweetish tint.
Antifreeze also often leaks into the engine system. Such a breakdown is determined by white smoke emanating through the exhaust pipe.
The most unpleasant and dangerous situation is the release of antifreeze into the engine crankcase. If this happens, a white emulsion will appear on the surface of the oil filler cap.
Periodically checking the space under the timing belt cover will determine whether the pump has failed. If yes, then you will find high humidity there.

Signs of boiling

If there are problems with the engine, antifreeze may simply boil in the CO

There is nothing good about this, so it is important to detect the malfunction in time. There are five main signs of coolant boiling:

The temperature gauge jumps to 130 degrees;
White foam appears at the filler neck;
The engine stops working properly;
The coolant level in the expansion tank rises sharply;
White smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe.

Selecting a heating tap and cost of the part

A driver faced with a leaking heating tap will inevitably be faced with the question: which tap to buy as a replacement? The question is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. Because there are three types of heating taps, which differ not only in cost, but also in design. Let's list them:

faucet with membrane. This is exactly the crane that the manufacturer installed on the “nines” that came off the assembly line. Cost - from 400 rubles. This is the cheapest faucet that can be found on the market today. However, the low price should not deceive the car owner: the reliability of membrane taps leaves much to be desired. And you can purchase them only in one case: when you couldn’t find anything else;
ball valve As the name suggests, the locking element in this device is a massive ball, which is much more reliable than a standard membrane. However, the above ball is made of steel. And therefore susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, a car owner who decides to open the tap with the onset of cold weather may be in for a very unpleasant surprise. The cost of such a crane starts from 550 rubles;
ceramic faucet. The most reliable and at the same time the most expensive option. Corrosion is not a problem for such devices: their body is made of plastic, and the antifreeze is locked by two tightly pressed ceramic plates. The cost of a ceramic faucet starts from 700 rubles, and if the car owner is not short of money, then ceramics should be purchased.

Here we should make one digression and tell a real-life incident. One driver I know experienced first-hand all the delights of domestic heating taps. Once again, having discovered a puddle of antifreeze on the floor of the cabin and remembering the domestic manufacturer with a kind word, he solved the problem radically: he disassembled the console, pulled out the leaking diaphragm valve, and replaced it with an antifreeze hose. He brought the long end of this hose under the hood and screwed it to an ordinary Chinese-made plumbing faucet. He screwed the crane itself to the right wheel arch with a piece of ordinary steel wire. Since then he has had no problems with antifreeze leakage. But such a solution cannot be called convenient: every time you need to open a tap, a person has to stop and climb under the hood. So think for yourself, decide for yourself, as they say.

Some car enthusiasts install plumbing taps under the hoods of their cars.

Bringing the radiator to life

As a rule, it is not the entire system that becomes unusable, but only some part of it. The first signs that it is necessary to intervene are a specific smell in the cabin, the appearance of steam from the exhaust vents, and very rapid evaporation of coolant. First of all, you need to check the radiator. You should not bother with checks when the engine is running or has not yet cooled down. The problem most often lies in the radiator, in the area of the heater tap or in the electrical circuit. Let's look at these weak points in more detail.

Replacing a faucet or electric motor is not the first step; first you need to carefully inspect the radiator for leaks. Then you will have to remove it and check the tightness. The radiator is removed in the following order. First you need to disconnect and (preferably) remove the car battery, completely drain the antifreeze from the cooling system and disconnect the wires from the sensor that turns on the fan motor. Then you will have to remove the fan casing fasteners, disconnect its bracket and wires, and tilt it to the side. This will allow you to remove the protective cover. All that remains is to disconnect all the hoses, slightly tilt the radiator to the side and remove it out.

Replacing the electric radiator motor

It should be noted that it would not be superfluous to replace the rubber shock absorbers located on the radiator holders.

After the unit is removed, it is necessary to put tight plugs on the pipes or holes (except one) to which they are connected. Through the remaining inlet it is necessary to pump air into the radiator. Just be careful: do not allow air pressure to exceed 0.2 MPa. After this, lower the radiator into a bath of water, preferably so that it completely covers it. If air bubbles appear, the seal is broken and replacement is necessary. If there are no bubbles, there is a chance that it is simply clogged. In this case, it is necessary to flush the device.

Replacing the heater tap and fan on sensor

Hello dear reader. After treating the floor with zinc, while it was drying, I began to change the stove faucet. Everything has been taken apart and if anything leaks, everything will dry quickly.

This is what we have, the faucet itself and the pipes in connection with the radiator are leaking.

Leaks from pipes and faucet

Ceramic heater tap YAVVA – 2108-8101150-12 was purchased for 285 rubles earlier.

YAVVA

And the pipes were available, they were still left over from my brother’s wife’s 9K. This is like 8 years ago. I only bought Norm clamps for them. But when the old tap was removed and found itself in my hands along with the pipes, it dawned on me that the existing pipes did not fit in any way. I began to wonder why this was so. And this is what happens. Remembering the location of the heater radiator on my Razvedchitsa 086, it stands more vertically, but on the right-handed one it is also located on the passenger side, that is, on the left side. It turns out that the existing pipes were from the old-style stove body (low panel).

The pipes didn't fit

When I removed the faucet, I noticed that the intake pipe bracket was unscrewed. I tried to tighten it and broke both studs. I also noticed a missing nut on the exhaust pipe. There was still time, so I went shopping for pipes. Taking with you the existing pipes.

All sellers unanimously were initially interested in a carburetor or injector.
And they took out a set of heater pipes (4 pieces) to the carburetor. But there are exactly the same pipes as in my hands, that is, they are not suitable. When they brought it to the injector, 3 pipes were what we needed, but one was not the right one. After visiting 2 stores, I realized that I couldn’t buy it separately today, so I returned home. On Sunday morning I went to my favorite store (it was already closed yesterday) and purchased the necessary pipes there separately.
Having also bought 2 engine compartment pipes - 326 rubles. 4 standard clamps – 80 rub. Cover of the expansion tank of an auto-device - 132 rubles. Copper washer for fan activation sensor – 3 rubles. Rubber plugs – 25 rubles. (They were damaged when installing the alarm system). Bracket for the exhaust pipe – 113 RUR. Fastening kit – 20r. Intake pipe nut – 4p. Corner with jack left - 113 rubles. Threshold amplifier left 120r.

Purchases

Pipes per piece

Front exhaust pipe bracket and nut

The plugs were damaged during installation of the signaling

Expansion barrel cover

It’s good that there is a store that has almost all the spare parts, especially by the piece. I still can’t understand why the sets of stove pipes are divided into carburetor and injection ones. "Red Lees" 1999. The likelihood that the heater housing was replaced is minimal.

Turning to the available books, I immediately found the difference. And there is no attachment to the carburetor or injector. Excerpt from the text “Since August 1998, part of Samar has been equipped with a heater 2108-01. The 2108-01 heater is distinguished by an almost horizontal radiator arrangement and a different air flow distribution: in intermediate damper positions, hot air enters from below, thanks to which cooler air is supplied to the windows. And it’s warmer at the feet.”

Difference between housings 2108 and 2108-01

On the pipes themselves there are markings 2114-8101200 and 2114-8101204, but this is again all doubtful, since the catalog shows 2108 - the old model of the stove body and 21082 - the new model. These are the roots of the injector.

Pipes

I started installing the pipes. I preliminarily outlined how they would be located, how it would be easier to tighten the clamps.

Let's put it like this

I took them off, coated them with sealant and installed them.

For sealant

I did the same with the pipes under the hood.

Installed

Everything is in place here too

Note one more feature: when I changed the heater valve and pipes on the Razvedchitsy 086, I also bought a heater radiator tube seal 2108-8101210-01, there is a recess on the body for it. She's not here. And I'm not going to install it.

heater radiator tube seal 2108-8101210-01 missing

Installed a new exhaust pipe bracket and the missing nut.

Bracket in place

Nut too

Let's move on to the fan activation sensor. This is what we have. The terminals are already green.

It’s terrible how everything is neglected

I decided to install a previously purchased sensor TM 108 99-94Cº 1A, which involves installing a switching relay.

sensor TM 108 99-94Сº 1A

I decided not to drain the antifreeze from the radiator, I mean, not to torment the drain plug. The generator was protected with a plastic bag. And unscrewed the sensor. I immediately spun a new one. Some of the liquid splashed out. The removed sensor was Finord FN 9103, and the response temperature was 92-87 Cº. This means that it is for the VAZ 2106. I think this was the reason for its quick demise. Since the native one has a threshold of 99-94Cº, it turns out that the fan will turn on more often in traffic jams, and may not turn off at all. It is likely that the sensor holds 16A no, therefore, even with a 4-pin relay, it simply died after some time.

The removed sensor was Finord FN 9103 92-87 Cº

Cable location

Gazelle stove faucet business electrical connection diagram

Learn more about how this process is carried out in the video below (the author of the video is the Engine Repair channel! And interesting!).

So, get your pliers ready and remove the upper part of the dashboard. By the way, you can do without dismantling, but this way you can clearly see where the central damper of the VAZ-2109 heater is located, assess its condition and control the adjustment process. After removing the panel, find the fastening cable, which is located to the right of the accelerator pedal and, using pliers, carefully bend the wire.

In the “nine”, the VAZ heating system operates using an electric drive. The instruction manual for the VAZ 2109 high panel shows an electrical diagram of the stove's operation. The interior heater connection diagram consists of:

fan motor;
the ignition switch, which turns on the stove;
operating mode switch;
additional resistor;
fuse mounting block (fuse F4 is responsible for the stove in the “nine”).

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The first thing you need to do is turn off the power to the car. To do this, simply remove the negative terminal from the battery. Remove the panel trim in the area of the ashtray, radio and the mounting of the heater control levers - to do this, unscrew the 4 fastening bolts. Disconnect the wires from all switches: lights, foglights, radio, etc. Move the front seats all the way back or, in general, remove them so that they are not in the way. Remove the seat belt anchors on the floor. Also remove the plastic trim that holds the gear lever boot on. From under this casing you will need to remove the lower air duct

Very carefully disconnect the clamps from the faucet, and then the cables themselves. To make it convenient, first disconnect the leg heating flap rod (3), then the windshield heated flap rod (14), then the rod that controls the valve (19) and the rod that controls the flap (20).

On the back of the heater, disconnect the wires that control the fan speed and the fastenings of the wires, backlights and levers. Not quickly, so as not to damage it, lower the heater control lever diagonally downwards. Now you can remove the cable and replace it with a new one.

As you know, on the VAZ 2109, interior heating is provided by air heated by a radiator. On the VAZ 2109, the heating and ventilation of the interior are interconnected and represent a kind of special system. In this article we will look at the general principles of operation of the heating and ventilation system of the VAZ 2109.

Like most repairs, this procedure is carried out on an overpass. Replacement requires the following tools:

Container for draining coolant;
Classic set of wrenches and screwdrivers;
Sealant;
WD – 40;
New faucet with a set of rubber gaskets.

Operating procedure:

1. Display the VAZ 2109 car;
2. Place the prepared empty container under the motor and, opening the drain hole, allow the coolant to drain;
3. Next, you need to unscrew the pipes running from the engine to the heater. To do this, just loosen the fastening clamps. It happens that they do not give in, then it makes sense to use a “bucket” and clean the threads of the crane bolts;
4. Remove the pipes and drain the remaining antifreeze;
5. Remove the side trim of the dashboard in the car interior. Here, too, unscrew the pipes;
6. Then, using a 10mm wrench, loosen and unscrew the faucet fastening nuts. It's under the car. Continue working inside the car again and tighten the tap on the passenger seat side. Then remove the clamp. Disconnect the control cable;
7. The next stage is the installation of a new tap. First of all, it must be connected to the control cable. Now put the spring clip in place. Tighten the fasteners. When installing pipes, use sealant.

Where is the heating system on the domestic nine? How to disassemble and remove hoses for repair, for what reasons may the device stop working? If the VAZ 2109 stove does not heat up, first of all you need to understand the reasons why this is happening.

Radiator device for heating system

Replacing the radiator of the VAZ 2109 stove - Lada master
What to do if the VAZ 2105 stove does not heat well
Repair of generator on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099
Starter 2108, how to make repairs yourself. How to repair a VAZ 2108 starter. Repair and replacement of a VAZ 2108 starter.

Malfunction - characteristic symptoms

The following signs indicate that the faucet is leaking:

traces of liquid are found on the floor in the cabin;
A characteristic smell of antifreeze appeared in the car.

Having discovered one of the above symptoms, it is necessary to inspect the failed unit. It is important to understand that if the breakdown is not repaired in a timely manner, then repairs will subsequently cost much more money, and it will most likely not be possible to do it yourself.

How to perform an inspection? You will need to get under the hood on the engine side. It should be noted that leaks can occur in various places in the cooling system, so you will need to inspect the entire system.

It is more convenient to do this with a flashlight. Coolant, in particular, often drips from:

radiator;
joints of hoses and pipes.

When it turns out that the faucet is the culprit of the malfunction, the owner needs to start replacing it as soon as possible.

This requirement is even more relevant if it is winter, because without heating in a car it will be very uncomfortable to move and, moreover, dangerous if you have a long trip through a sparsely populated area.

Reasons for the release

The first step is to figure out why the coolant is being thrown out of the expansion tank.

Wear of CO elements. In particular, we are talking about pipes and connecting hoses. They are constantly exposed to high pressure and temperatures. Therefore, over time, their wear and tear is a completely natural phenomenon. As a result, antifreeze begins to be thrown out.
Low quality components. If natural wear and tear is typical for used cars and cooling systems that have been in operation for quite a long time, then when using low-quality components, even on a completely new or updated cooling system, serious problems can arise. An example is simple burrs on the neck of the expansion tank. Because of them, the lid does not fit tightly enough, which leads to a gap and the release of antifreeze.
Expansion tank. Alas, the quality of the plastic from which expansion tanks for the VAZ 2109 are made today leaves much to be desired. Because of it, the plastic simply bursts under high pressure.
Faulty engine. If the engine itself is not working correctly, the coolant may boil. This leads to damage to the thermostat, radiator, and pump.

From this we can conclude that the quality of the CO directly depends on the technical condition of the car and the quality of the components used.

Coolant emission

Signs of coolant emission

Antifreeze evaporates very quickly, so traces of it are not always visible.

If coolant is released through the reservoir, puddles immediately form under the car.
If liquid enters the cabin due to a malfunction of the CO, this can be determined by the smell. It has a sweetish tint.
Antifreeze also often leaks into the engine system. Such a breakdown is determined by white smoke emanating through the exhaust pipe.
The most unpleasant and dangerous situation is the release of antifreeze into the engine crankcase. If this happens, a white emulsion will appear on the surface of the oil filler cap.
Periodically checking the space under the timing belt cover will determine whether the pump has failed. If yes, then you will find high humidity there.

Signs of boiling

If there are problems with the engine, antifreeze may simply boil in the CO

There is nothing good about this, so it is important to detect the malfunction in time. There are five main signs of coolant boiling:

The temperature gauge jumps to 130 degrees;
White foam appears at the filler neck;
The engine stops working properly;
The coolant level in the expansion tank rises sharply;
White smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe.

Which one is better to choose?

Both the duration of its operation and the reliability of the entire system largely depend on the quality of the new crane.
In total, there are three types of this unit on the Russian market. This means:

standard, that is, native, used by the manufacturer;
ball valve;
ceramic.

The first one is very inexpensive, but usually lasts a fairly short period of time. For this reason, it is worth choosing it only when the car enthusiast does not have extra money or if he was unable to buy anything else.

The ceramic model is more expensive and quite durable, but its disadvantage is its relatively low throughput. If you live in the southern regions, then feel free to take this option. Otherwise, a ball valve is ideal.

This type of locking fittings is different:

great reliability;
strength;
good throughput.

However, the latter option may also turn sour over time.

How is the replacement made?

If the tap does not open and you discover a problem in the summer, then there is no need to rush, but the leak requires prompt elimination - after all, the cooling system is constantly losing antifreeze, and this, in turn, calls into question the normal functioning of the power plant.

You should know that in both older and new 2109 models, the tap is located opposite the front passenger seat, under the panel.

To replace the unit in question you will need the following:

new tap;
a set of gaskets (usually it is sold complete with the above unit);
a can of WD40 or its equivalent;
wire brush;
wrenches for 13 and 10 (both socket and ring);
screwdrivers;
container for antifreeze;
new coolant.

Execution of work

The car must be placed on a pit or ramp. Its wheels are fixed with stops. You should start working no earlier than the engine has cooled down. Don't forget to apply the handbrake! You will also need to disconnect the battery - it will be enough to remove the negative wire from it.

It will not be possible to do without draining the antifreeze. Therefore, the prepared container is placed under the hole intended for this purpose and, unscrewing the plug, wait until the coolant drains out completely.

Next, you need to disconnect the pipes connecting the engine directly to the mechanism that has become unusable. The fastening clamps on them are loosened. Use a brush to clean the threads on the two studs that hold the heater tap itself. As reviews indicate, without WD40 it is most likely impossible to easily remove a faulty unit.

Only after this can you completely unscrew the clamps and remove the pipes. Please note that sometimes some antifreeze remains in them. You should be prepared for this and have a vessel ready. To avoid getting your hands dirty, you should also wear gloves.

Having completed the work on the hood side, you need to go to the interior. It will also be impossible to do without removing the torpedo, or rather, its side panel. Having opened access to the remaining pipes, they are dismantled. In those situations when it turns out that they have completely retained their properties and do not need to be replaced, they will only need to be disconnected from the tap. And coolant often leaks from these pipes - be prepared for this.

After the tap has been rid of the tubes, we move again under the bottom of the vehicle. Here, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nuts holding the above element in place. Then, returning to the salon, they pull out the tap itself, removing the spring retainer. Only after this is it possible to dismantle the cable leading to the regulator.

When installing a new mechanism, do not forget to return the rod to its place.

Reassembly is carried out in reverse order.

As practice shows, quite often car owners leave the old gaskets behind when replacing the faucet itself. This should not be done under any circumstances. Even if the seals look good, they still have a very limited life and can quickly become unusable. The new ones are supplied complete and you won’t have to spend extra on them.

When returning the pipes to the tap, the joints should be treated with silicone sealant; this will allow you to forget about grooves for a long time.

Before filling the system with antifreeze, return the drain plug to its place.

Installing an additional pump

The main negative quality of the basic heating element of the VAZ-2109 is its low efficiency at idle speed. This problem can be solved by installing an additional pump (additional pump) in the cooling system.

Purpose

By installing an additional pump 09, you can increase the efficiency of the stove at idle speed. The base heater blows warm air at idle, and hot air only when driving. This means that fluid circulation in the engine cooling system is poor. Installing an additional pump makes the coolant move much faster, including at idle, therefore, during a stop, hot air will blow from the stove, and not warm as before.

Which additional pump is better to choose?

The most common and proven options are additional pumps from GAZelle or Bosch. These elements do not have any problems with leakage.

Installation of an additional pump from a GAZelle on a VAZ-2109

You will need:

Pump for GAZelle
Relay. You can take a relay with normally open contacts 2105, 2108 - starter or ignition relay and bridge contacts 30 and 86.
Reinforced hose.
Cooling.
Several clamps.

Progress

Wait for the antifreeze to cool completely and drain it.
Unscrew the 4 top screws on the pump, where the impeller is located, and coat the rubber gasket with sealant.
Secure the pump to the studs near the battery.
Disconnect the coolant wire hose to the heater from the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and connect it to the horizontal pipe of the pump.
Connect the hose of the connected S-shaped hoses (located in the cabin between the tap and the radiator) to the vertical branch pipe.
Connect the second end to the head of the block, in the previously removed place of the base one.
Pull all the clamps and do not forget to tighten the drain plug in the block.
Fill the coolant to the maximum and check for leaks.
If necessary, tighten the clamps.
After running the engine for half an hour, bring the antifreeze level to normal.

Scheme for installing an additional pump in a car's cooling system.
Installing an additional pump from a GAZelle is very popular among VAZ owners, as it has only positive aspects. The car will be properly heated even at idle speed, and the price of the issue is about 2000 rubles. depending on the price of the purchased part.

How to replace the interior heater valve of a VAZ-2109

In a VAZ-2109 car, replacing the heater valve is caused by two malfunctions: a coolant leak and a failure to switch the supply of cold to hot air due to souring. If the malfunction of changing heating modes is not critical and can wait, then puddles of antifreeze in the place where the valve of the VAZ-2109 stove is located indicate the need for immediate repair.

What is hidden under the panel in the car interior?

The “refrigerator effect” becomes most noticeable if you still continue to use old VAZ models with front-wheel drive: 2108, 2109, 21099. Let's try to figure out whether there is any possibility of replacing the heating system yourself. Despite the visual identity of the car models, there is still some difference in these VAZ units of the 8th and 9th models.

This difference is not fundamental. It’s just that in the process of evolution, unnecessary air ducts were removed from the design, the shape of the damper and the location of the radiator were changed. But this does not change the principle of operation. The interior is heated by air, a radiator connected to the engine cooling system is responsible for heating it, and the heater itself is located under the instrument panel in the car, which is higher in the VAZ 21099 due to some design features of the stove. With the help of connected air ducts, heat flows into the interior.

Radiator in the engine cooling system

To force heated air into the cabin, a fan is located at the top of the heater, which rotates using an electric motor. The easiest way to access it is from the engine compartment. Heater radiator. which was mentioned above, is located in the VAZ 2109, 2108 and 21099 models near the heater itself.

Since heating is connected to the car’s cooling system, fluid circulation through the radiator occurs using the pump of this system. You can regulate its flow using the heater tap and various levers that affect the position of valves and dampers. Warm air enters the cabin through two central and two side nozzles, inside of which there are dampers that regulate the intensity of heating. The direction of flow is also changed by blades-blinds using levers in the cabin.

After the air in the cabin is heated, it is necessary to circulate it and maintain the set temperature. It is necessary to release the waste stream outside. In this regard, on VAZ 2108 models, hot air flows out through holes located in the central body pillars. On 9-model cars, these holes are located in the corners of the rear side windows and have rubber valves that prevent atmospheric air from entering the air ducts.

To force heated air into the cabin, a fan is located at the top of the heater, which rotates using an electric motor. The easiest way to access it is from the engine compartment. The heater radiator, mentioned above, is located in the VAZ 2109, 2108 and 21099 models near the heater itself.

Checking the functionality of the heater tap

If the cold or hot air supply modes do not switch, the cause may be a loose damper control cable or souring of the mechanism itself. How to open the tap of the VAZ-2109 stove in this situation?

To do this, you need to remove the side panel of the dashboard on the passenger side. Then check the condition of the cable and if this is the reason, then connect it back into place. You can also, without removing the panel, put your hand under the dashboard, where the VAZ-2109 heater tap is located, and move the VAZ-2109 heater damper lever to the desired position. If the lever does not give in, then most likely it has gone sour and must be replaced.

Removing and replacing the heater valve

To replace the VAZ-2109 heater tap, you need a set of tools available to most drivers:

a set of Phillips and slotted screwdrivers;
a set of open-end wrenches No. 10 and No. 13 or socket heads of these sizes, as well as a wrench with a ratchet mechanism and a cardan;
silicone sealant;
container for draining coolant;
metal brush;
universal penetrating lubricant WD-40 or its equivalent;
inspection hole, overpass or lift;
rags to protect the interior flooring from antifreeze.

Ceramic, ball, and electric valves for the VAZ-2109 stove are available for sale. Which heater valves for the VAZ-2109 are better than those listed? With rare use, ball mechanisms are more susceptible to souring, and the electronic automatic heating control system “SAUO” is much more difficult to install. Ceramic mechanisms produced in Russia or “LUZAR” are free of these shortcomings.

Many experienced drivers advise simply replacing the heater taps with water taps. The benefit of this solution is not only in cost, but also in reliability - the coolant either constantly circulates or is easily closed manually at the pipe. Another way to make it easier to change the heater faucet of a VAZ-2109 is to abandon it altogether; the cabin temperature in this case is regulated by air dampers.

Instructions on how to change the heater tap of a VAZ-2109:

Before replacing the valve of the VAZ-2109 heater, place the car on an overpass and, unscrewing the cap on the radiator, drain the coolant into a container prepared in advance.
When the radiator is empty, use a screwdriver to loosen the clamps on the pipes going from the engine to the heater, then use WD-40 and a metal brush to clean the threads on the studs securing the part to be replaced. When finished, completely unscrew the clamps.
Carefully remove the hoses one by one; they may contain residual antifreeze that needs to be drained.

Important! Do not skip this step, because it will not be possible to remove the valve of the VAZ-2109 stove with the hoses connected.

Having removed the side trim of the torpedo from inside the cabin, check the condition of the pipes and change them if necessary.
Then, under the car, using a socket wrench No. 10, unscrew the nuts securing the part to be replaced on the VAZ stove
Returning to the car interior, pull the faucet towards you (where the right passenger seat is), remove the spring clamp and disconnect the control cable from the part being replaced.
We take a new spare part and reassemble it in the reverse order.

Important! To prevent future leakage of coolant at the joints of the pipes, it is necessary to treat it with silicone sealant, and also to increase the service life, install rubber seals where the heater faucet is located on the VAZ-2109.

We make sure that the radiator plug is in place and fill it with coolant to the required level. Then we start the engine and, having gotten rid of air pockets, check the proper operation of the heater modes. This completes the replacement of the VAZ-2109 heater valve.

Classic way

It is worth noting right away that it is quite labor-intensive and will take quite a lot of time. You will need a lot of patience and care (as mentioned above). The most difficult part is removing the instrument panel and installing it, as it is much more difficult to get the instrument panel into place correctly.

Tool

Coolant drain container
Screwdriver Set
Head with a wrench to unscrew the steering wheel

Let's start in order:

Removing the terminals from the battery
With the heater tap open, drain the coolant by unscrewing the drain plugs located on the radiator and cylinder block (into a substitute container)
Removing the decorative trim from the steering wheel
We unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel so that its end is flush with the end of the steering column shaft.
The steering wheel is seated very tightly on the shaft splines, so for safety reasons it is not recommended to completely unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel: with a sharp impact, it will jump off the splines and can cause injury
Be sure to mark the location of the steering wheel in relation to the shaft
Knock the steering wheel off the shaft splines with sharp blows of your hand.
Now you can finally unscrew the nut and remove the steering wheel
Unscrew the six screws securing the lower steering column casing
Remove the lower casing from the steering column, as well as the lining of the ignition switch (lock)
Then remove the upper casing from the steering column
Loosen the bolt securing the base under the steering switches
We remove the base from the shaft, disconnect the blocks with wires (there are two of them) from the contacts of the car horn
Now we disconnect the block with wiring from the windshield wiper and washer switch lever
It is recommended to mark the terminals with wiring before disconnecting. This will help you avoid confusion during assembly and save time.
Disconnect the block with wiring from the headlight and turn signal switch lever
Pull the carburetor choke control handle (aka “choke”) towards you so that the draft comes out, remove the handle from it
Unscrew the two screws securing the dashboard console trim
Removing the cover from the console
Remove the cigarette lighter from the socket
We take out the ashtray from the nest by pressing on the plate to extinguish cigarettes
Remove the handle that switches the heater fan
Then we remove the three knobs that control the stove and hook them with a screwdriver
Disconnect the block with wiring from the heater fan switch, located under the heater control panel
Disconnect two wires from the contacts of the lamp illuminating the heater control panel
Remove the headlight direction adjustment handle, just pull it towards you
Now remove the instrument cluster lighting switch knob
Unscrew the nut securing the instrument lighting switch
Unscrew the nut securing the headlight hydraulic corrector
We push the hydraulic corrector for headlights and the instrument lighting switch inside the panel
Remove the side nozzles located on both sides of the dashboard using a screwdriver
Unscrew one screw securing the trim on both sides of the dashboard
Using a screwdriver, use a screwdriver to remove the exterior lighting switch.
Disconnect the block with wires from the switch. Push the block inside the dashboard
We use a screwdriver and remove the socket intended for radio equipment. If you have radio equipment installed on your VAZ 2109, remove it first
We remove radio equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions
Then unscrew the screw securing the trim to the dashboard
We insert two screwdrivers so that we can bend the plastic latches
Raising the dashboard trim
Disconnect the wiring harness from the cigarette lighter
Disconnect the block with wiring from the block for lighting the cigarette lighter
Disconnect the block with wiring from the lamp illuminating the hazard warning switch
We disconnect the block with wiring from the hazard warning switch, and finally remove the dashboard trim
Gently press down and remove the speaker cover located on the left side of the dashboard. Be careful - latches break easily
Disconnect the block with wiring from the heated glass switch
Remove the block from the rear fog lamp switch
Unscrew the two screws securing the instrument cluster
We take out the instrument cluster from the dashboard, unscrew the nut securing the cable from the speedometer and disconnect it

Tap function

In a VAZ-2109 car, coolant circulates through two circuits.
If a large one is used, then it passes through the engine. It heats up there and then goes to the radiator of the heater itself. This element is blown by a special fan, which drives the air heated by the stove into the cabin. In summer, the large circuit is not used, and the liquid circulates exclusively through the small circuit, which includes the main radiator and power plant. The air ducts of the stove provide ventilation to the interior.

The tap itself regulates the supply of hot coolant to the heater or completely blocks its access there. Accordingly, during the warm season it is constantly in a closed position.

Installation of new pipes

It is recommended to buy a set of new clamps for a set of new pipes. It is necessary to put them on the pipes before installing them, they must be in a free position, we will tighten them after installing the hoses on the fittings.

If the pipe does not fit well onto the fitting, do not make much effort, just lubricate the fitting. Apply efforts evenly, after successful installation, tighten the metal clamp. It must fit evenly over the entire surface, distortions are not allowed.

In general, the installation of pipes is complete. Upon completion, it is necessary to visually check again and perform a final tightening. Next, fill in new coolant. To do this, we lift the nose of the car so that the new fluid does not create air pockets. Next, turn on the stove to maximum and fill in the liquid. We wait until it completely fills the radiator, heating stove, and block. As soon as the level is at the desired level, you can close the expansion tank cap. At this point the procedure is considered completed.

Upon completion of repairs, periodically check the coolant level. The absence of stains under the car engine, and a constant level of fluid in the expansion tank will tell you that you did everything right, and there is nothing to worry about for the next 3-5 years. In conclusion, I would like to note that this type of repair is not something fantastic, this procedure is carried out frequently and allows you to avoid engine overheating.

Why do breakdowns occur?

As noted above, the shut-off valves of the heater are a very vulnerable element of the VAZ-2109. If it fails, then it will not be possible to ignore the breakdown. First of all, on the floor, at the base of the passenger seat in the first row, a puddle forms under the carpet. In addition, leaking antifreeze emits a very characteristic odor, which should also suggest a malfunction of the stove.

Leakage occurs for three main reasons:

use of low-quality cranes by a domestic automaker;
oxidation;
mechanical destruction.

The Volzhsky plant supplies its products with membrane-type locking fittings. This system has one inherent drawback - poor tightness. Even with careful use, such taps break very quickly.

The second malfunction occurs due to the fact that the heating system is not used for at least 4-5 months a year. This period is quite enough for the valve casing and moving elements to become covered with sediment. As a result, his insides literally stick together. The owner of the car makes a significant effort to open it, and as a result the unit simply collapses. That is, a third type of breakdown occurs.

Which to choose

Every driver wants his car's heater to work flawlessly. Therefore, when a faucet breaks down, a person begins to think about which one is best to choose as a replacement.

There are three main types of shut-off valves on the market. They are distinguished not only by price, but also by design features.

The most budget-friendly faucet option is the previously mentioned membrane faucet. The stove is equipped with it at the factory. The unit will cost about 400 rubles. There is nothing cheaper in nature. The trouble is that the savings are often quite conditional, because the unreliability of membrane models is already legendary.

Ball valves are often used for replacement. They are much more convenient than membrane ones, but slightly more expensive - for one piece you will have to pay at least 550 rubles. At the same time, in cheap options, the locking ball is made of ordinary steel, which is relatively easy to corrosion.

Ceramic stove models are considered the most reliable. They are not afraid of aggressive environments and do not turn sour. The price of the crane is about 750 rubles. This option is recommended by everyone who has used it.

What you need to replace the heater tap

Before you start working on the VAZ stove, you should prepare all the necessary tools and consumables. In particular, you will need:

new working faucet;
steel clamps (2 pcs.), opening up to 23 millimeters;
antifreeze, at least 4 liters;
tap gaskets;
sealing compound (special automotive or plumbing silicone with a neutral reaction);
bucket for old coolant;
sets of keys and screwdrivers;
pliers.

Replacement procedure

If you have been using the car, be sure to let its power plant cool down - otherwise the coolant will be very hot, and this is dangerous.

The car must be placed on a ramp or pit, since you will need access to its bottom.

Before changing the shut-off valves discussed in this article, set the stove regulator to the extreme right position, that is, to maximum heating. Only in this case will you be able to completely drain the coolant from the radiator.

When the preparation is complete, unscrew the cap of the distribution tank slightly and place a bucket under the car to collect the leaking antifreeze. The radiator is the first to be freed from it - it has a special plug. Next, drain the liquid from the cylinder block and hoses leading to the tap.

From the hood side, loosen the pipes that go directly to the tap. The clamps on them often rust, and therefore it is recommended to treat them with VD-40 before unwinding. The screws are unscrewed with a flat screwdriver. Go to the salon. Here, remove the side trims of the center console. They are held in place by screws, which can be unscrewed using a Phillips screwdriver.

Actually, the heater valve is located on the front passenger side. It has two pipes fixed with clamps. Carefully loosen the latter and very carefully remove the hoses (there is a risk that there is still antifreeze left in them).

Now you need to release the tap - to do this, just unscrew the three 10 mm nuts. Before this, the drive cable is disconnected from it. All that remains is to dismantle the damaged unit and install a working one in its place.

Reassemble everything in reverse order and check how the heater works, and also make sure that everything is sealed in the places where the pipes are attached.

Classic way

Tool

Coolant drain container
Screwdriver Set
Head with a wrench to unscrew the steering wheel

Let's start in order:

Removing the terminals from the battery
With the heater tap open, drain the coolant by unscrewing the drain plugs located on the radiator and cylinder block (into a substitute container)
Removing the decorative trim from the steering wheel
We unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel so that its end is flush with the end of the steering column shaft.
The steering wheel is seated very tightly on the shaft splines, so for safety reasons it is not recommended to completely unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel: with a sharp impact, it will jump off the splines and can cause injury
Be sure to mark the location of the steering wheel in relation to the shaft
Knock the steering wheel off the shaft splines with sharp blows of your hand.
Now you can finally unscrew the nut and remove the steering wheel
Unscrew the six screws securing the lower steering column casing
Remove the lower casing from the steering column, as well as the lining of the ignition switch (lock)
Then remove the upper casing from the steering column
Loosen the bolt securing the base under the steering switches
We remove the base from the shaft, disconnect the blocks with wires (there are two of them) from the contacts of the car horn
Now we disconnect the block with wiring from the windshield wiper and washer switch lever
It is recommended to mark the terminals with wiring before disconnecting. This will help you avoid confusion during assembly and save time.
Disconnect the block with wiring from the headlight and turn signal switch lever
Pull the carburetor choke control handle (aka “choke”) towards you so that the draft comes out, remove the handle from it
Unscrew the two screws securing the dashboard console trim
Removing the cover from the console
Remove the cigarette lighter from the socket
We take out the ashtray from the nest by pressing on the plate to extinguish cigarettes
Remove the handle that switches the heater fan
Then we remove the three knobs that control the stove and hook them with a screwdriver
Disconnect the block with wiring from the heater fan switch, located under the heater control panel
Disconnect two wires from the contacts of the lamp illuminating the heater control panel
Remove the headlight direction adjustment handle, just pull it towards you
Now remove the instrument cluster lighting switch knob
Unscrew the nut securing the instrument lighting switch
Unscrew the nut securing the headlight hydraulic corrector
We push the hydraulic corrector for headlights and the instrument lighting switch inside the panel
Remove the side nozzles located on both sides of the dashboard using a screwdriver
Unscrew one screw securing the trim on both sides of the dashboard
Using a screwdriver, use a screwdriver to remove the exterior lighting switch.
Disconnect the block with wires from the switch. Push the block inside the dashboard
We use a screwdriver and remove the socket intended for radio equipment. If you have radio equipment installed on your VAZ 2109, remove it first
We remove radio equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions
Then unscrew the screw securing the trim to the dashboard
We insert two screwdrivers so that we can bend the plastic latches
Raising the dashboard trim
Disconnect the wiring harness from the cigarette lighter
Disconnect the block with wiring from the block for lighting the cigarette lighter
Disconnect the block with wiring from the lamp illuminating the hazard warning switch
We disconnect the block with wiring from the hazard warning switch, and finally remove the dashboard trim
Gently press down and remove the speaker cover located on the left side of the dashboard. Be careful - latches break easily
Disconnect the block with wiring from the heated glass switch
Remove the block from the rear fog lamp switch
Unscrew the two screws securing the instrument cluster
We take out the instrument cluster from the dashboard, unscrew the nut securing the cable from the speedometer and disconnect it