New model VAZ 2110 heater design

Today we will get acquainted with the stove and its structure on a VAZ 2110 car.

As you know, the heating system has a direct impact on the level of comfort. If in summer there is no special need for interior heating, then in autumn and winter it is problematic to imagine traveling without it. Theoretically, you can drive, but lower temperatures are unlikely to benefit your health.

Dismantling the heater

Device

Periodic malfunctions in the operation of the heating system for the VAZ 2110 are an ordinary and common thing. Therefore, the owners of this model from the Russian automaker have to dig around in their own garage every now and then or send the car for repairs to specialists from service stations.

Heater circuit diagram

To understand exactly how to carry out repair and preventative measures, you first need to familiarize yourself with the diagram of the stove and its components.

Element

Peculiarities

A fan is mounted on it. Both elements contribute to the injection of heated air into the cabin

The entire operation of the heating system is based on this component. Remove the radiator and the heater will not work. Interestingly, the new model stove does not have a valve that shut off the flow of coolant through the radiator. Older devices have a faucet. The faucet was removed in order to avoid leaks, which were common on old stoves. Plus, they got rid of the tap for faster and more efficient heating of the interior. Although many owners of new tens do not agree with this decision, therefore, during repairs, they install a faucet on the stove

In total, the stove has three of them. The first is responsible for air intake recirculation, the second is for opening and closing the heater duct, and the third is intended for control and is considered the most important

This element is responsible for the speed of blowing hot air into the cabin.

All elements, including additional valves, shields, fittings, are combined into a single unit. It, enclosed in a housing, is located in the engine compartment near the dashboard.

Air ducts

Air ducts are another block of the heating system. They come from the stove and perform several different functions at once:

The interior is ventilated through central nozzles;
Distribute the air through an appropriate distributor that supplies heat or air for ventilation;
Another pair of air ducts serve to heat the rear row of seats;
The system, which includes five nozzles at once, warms the feet;
A pair of side air ducts take over the functions of heating the glass and partially heat the interior. This makes heating more efficient;
A pair of nozzles are used for ventilation.

Electronic stove control

This electronic control unit operates directly from the passenger compartment. It consists of two main elements.

Pen. Using the controller knob, the user sets the required temperature, which the stove then generates. Control is carried out by turning the knob in one direction or another, depending on what degree of heating you require at the moment.
Temperature sensor. It is responsible for activating the stove when the temperature drops by more than 2 degrees compared to the value set on the controller. The sensor is equipped with a micro motor. When the handle is in position A, the micromotor in the stove block turns on, the damper is activated, thereby causing proper heating.

Control block

Before starting repairs of the entire stove, it is strongly recommended to check the condition of the sensor. You can find it near the heater lamp on the ceiling of the car. The device cannot be repaired. Replacement only.

Design Features

For the VAZ 2110, it is possible to install two types of stoves - new and old. Regardless of the engine used (injection or carburetor), there are no fundamental differences in the designs of the stoves.

But what is the difference between the new and old type stoves? Let's try to figure it out.

Radiator design. This is the main difference between the devices. Therefore, when replacing a radiator from an old one to a new one, be sure to take into account the installation nuances;
The controller knob on stoves is slightly different. Old-style heaters have a main problem - they have been discontinued. They cannot be an analogue for 4 and 5 position controllers, which began to be equipped with dozens of them in the fall of 2003;
The micro-gear motors for the stoves are different, starting in September of the same 2003. The difference lies in the shaft position sensors (resistors). Therefore, when making repairs, make sure that the devices are truly interchangeable and that you bought old-style resistors for your old stove, not new ones. Otherwise the gearmotor will not work.

Which radiator is better: copper or aluminum cooling radiator

Before replacing the cooling radiator, it is necessary to choose the right high-quality analogue. Today you can buy a VAZ 2110 radiator made of aluminum or copper, the part is offered from various manufacturers.

An aluminum radiator is lighter in weight and more affordable. At the same time, the thermal conductivity of such a solution is lower, and there is also a higher tendency to corrosion. In any case, if we consider the aluminum radiator of the VAZ 2110, the price will be 25-30% lower than for copper radiators.
A copper radiator is more durable and better resists corrosion, which increases the service life of this element.
Copper also conducts heat better, which improves the performance of the engine cooling system. The main disadvantage of copper radiators is their higher cost and fewer available options on the market.

As for popular manufacturers and costs, the 2110 Kraft radiator will be the most affordable. You can also opt for Luzar or DAAZ. It is important to understand that the price of a VAZ 2110 radiator should not be the main deciding factor. The first place should be the quality of the product and full compliance with the engine, taking into account the displacement.

Repair

As we have already noted, the design of stoves on dozens with carburetor and injection engines has practically no differences. Therefore, the repair instructions below are suitable for owners of a VAZ 2110 with both types of power units.

If you are planning to overhaul your old-style stove, we recommend starting with the purchase of a radiator. Use copper as it is more efficient and helps the heater work better.

To carry out repairs correctly, strictly follow the points presented in our instructions and rely on video materials.

There is a plug on the engine block through which coolant is drained into any container. If you plan to use the same antifreeze or antifreeze again, choose clean containers.
Next you need to move the frill forward. This process will take quite a long time, so be patient.
Next, you need to remove the windshield wipers and get rid of as much as possible of everything that could interfere with the repair process.
Remove the body of your stove. It is divided into two parts, which is important to know in advance. The front part of the stove body is removed directly along with the fan.
After this comes the stage of dismantling the cabin filter. Check its current status. If the filter is dirty, this is an excellent reason to replace it.
The next stage involves removing the second part of the housing.
Loosen the clamps used on the hoses a little. This will allow you to easily remove the hoses.
Having applied some effort, you can now finally remove the radiator from its seat.

Car heating system design

The design of the heating system on the "ten"

Where is the VAZ heater control unit, heater tap, micromotor gearbox and other design elements of the old and new design, how to turn the heater on and off? First, let's talk about the device. As practice shows, owners of “ten” cars usually repair heating systems and other inoperative components of the car on their own.

Therefore, first you need to consider the design of the stove; below is a description of the main elements of the old and new-style systems:

The VAZ 2110 stove is controlled by an electric motor. The VAZ 2110 heater fan is installed on the latter. These components are designed to pump hot air flow into the car interior.
The next element of the circuit is the radiator, on which, in principle, the entire operation of the heating system is based. Without it, the operation of the unit will be impossible. It should be noted that the stove valve on the new model version is missing - it was dismantled in order to prevent possible leaks that often happened on old systems. In addition, removing the tap allowed the interior to be heated more quickly and efficiently. However, many “ten” owners today do not agree with such an engineering solution. Therefore, often, when tuning and modifying the VAZ 2110 stove with their own hands, “VAZ drivers” install the faucet back on their car.
The stove on the VAZ is equipped with three dampers. One of them is responsible for air intake recirculation, the second ensures the opening and closing of the heating duct, and the third is necessary for controlling the system.
The additional resistor of the VAZ 2110 heater (resistance) is essentially a regulator responsible for changing the speed of air flow inside the car.

Heating unit for VAZ 2110

As for secondary elements, such as valves, fittings, rheostat, shields, they are combined into one unit, installed in the body and located in the engine compartment. It can be found next to the control panel.

An equally important block of the heating system on any stove, including the VAZ 2110, are the air ducts that come from the unit and perform the following tasks:

ventilation of the vehicle interior;
air flow distribution via switch and distribution device;
two air ducts serve as heating for the rear seats;
five air ducts perform the function of heating the feet;
On the sides there are air ducts designed to heat the windows and interior;
Several more elements are designed for interior ventilation.

Air Ducts and Heater Controls

The electronic control system for the VAZ stove is located directly in the car’s interior and consists of several components:

The switch itself. Using the knob, you can switch and set the desired temperature. The switch is adjusted by turning the knob to the right or left in accordance with the needs of the motorist.
Temperature regulator. This element is designed to automatically turn on the heating system if the air temperature in the cabin drops by more than two degrees compared to the set parameter. The heater motor begins to function to heat the interior to the desired temperature, and the regulator itself is equipped with a micromotor. When the switch is set to position A, the micromotor is automatically activated, the damper is turned on, as a result of which the interior begins to heat up.

Operating principle of the stove

As for the operating principle, it is partially described above. As you know, a temperature controller is installed on the stream, designed to send information about the temperature, after which the heating system control unit activates the operation of the stove gear motor. The latter is responsible for opening or closing the damper, which is responsible for supplying air flow into the cabin. Further adjustment of the flow is carried out when the controller detects a change in temperature (video author - Fire Screen - Live).

Typical faults

Below are the main malfunctions of heating systems:

When the heating is turned on, hot air blows. In this case, there may be many reasons. It is necessary to diagnose the heater motor, gear motor, temperature controller on the ceiling, and the ACS controller. In some cases, the problem lies in the radiator, which, due to incorrect operation, cannot warm up the air flow that passes through it.
Often the cause of incorrect operation of the heating system is dampers that are unable to open or close well. Since the damper is made of plastic, it tends to deform over time; in this case, installing a metal damper will solve the problem. To understand the condition of this element, you simply need to dismantle the deflector. Turn on the heating and try turning the controls - if the damper does not respond to your actions at all, then you need to look for the problem further.
Fan failure can be determined by the absence of characteristic noise. But if there is no noise, the problem may be a failed fuse or oxidized wiring contacts. In order to get to the fan, you need to dismantle the so-called apron.
In the engine compartment there is a radiator for the heating system, next to the fan. To remove the radiator, the fan will also need to be removed. If the radiator begins to leak, you will be able to see puddles of coolant under the floor mats; sometimes this problem is caused by bad clamps. One way or another, it is necessary to determine the location of the leak and solve the problem to restore the system's functionality.
Many owners of "ten" are faced with such a problem as the lack of backlight on the heater control panel. Car enthusiasts associate the lack of lighting with stove malfunctions, but this is completely wrong. If there is no backlight, this may only be due to the wiring (video author - Aleks B).

Reasons for failure of the cooling radiator

As a rule, the main reasons for the failure of the cooling radiator are:

mechanical damage;
vibration;
corrosion.

Often flying stones damage the radiator, jamming its thin “honeycombs”. Also, vibration loads cause cracks to appear in different parts of the radiator.

As for hidden problems, untimely replacement of antifreeze or antifreeze, the use of coolant with unsuitable properties, as well as severe contamination of the cooling system leads to active corrosion destroying the internal cavities of the radiator.

To increase the service life of the radiator, it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness and serviceability of the cooling system. It is recommended to periodically flush the entire system, regularly change antifreeze, do not pour ordinary untreated water from the water supply into the system, and also clean the radiator externally from dirt, dust and fluff.

DIY repair

Regardless of whether you have an injection “ten” or a carburetor, the repair procedure is carried out according to the same principle. If you decide to tune the system by adding new lighting, then the console will have to be disassembled. To provide improved illumination, it will be necessary to install diode bulbs instead of conventional lamps.

As for repairs, if it is necessary to replace the radiator, it is best to use a copper device, since it is more effective in itself:

First, the antifreeze must be drained from the system through a special plug on the engine block.
Then you need to move the frill forward - this step may take some time.
Then you should dismantle the windshield wipers, as well as other elements that may interfere with the repair.
After these steps, the housing of the heating system is removed - it is divided into 2 parts, the front one is dismantled with the fan itself.
Next, you should remove the cabin filter element and check its condition. If you see that the filter is very dirty, then it should be changed.
Then the second part of the heater housing is dismantled.
Now you need to loosen the clamps on the pipes, after which you can remove the lines themselves.
The last step is to remove the radiator and replace it with a new one. Subsequently, all steps must be repeated in reverse order for assembly.

Sorry, there are no surveys available at this time.

Do-it-yourself replacement of a VAZ 2110 engine mount

So, having decided that replacing the engine mounts is inevitable (either one or several, for example, replacing the rear engine mount), you need to prepare the car and tools for repair work (drive the car into a pit or onto a lift, have a set of keys, jacks, etc.).

In the case of an 8 valve engine:

First, use a 13mm wrench to unscrew the alternator belt tensioner bolt and remove the belt;
A jack is placed under the engine, a wooden beam or a thick board is placed on the top of the jack;
Next, the engine is raised with a jack so as to relieve the support;
Then, using a 15mm wrench, unscrew the central nut securing the right airbag;
Then, using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the pillow to the bracket
Next, from below in the area of the right arch, using a 17 key, you need to unscrew 3 bolts (the bracket is attached to the spar);
Now the bracket can be removed and the engine mount can be replaced by tightening all the bolts back after installation.
Upon completion, the jack at the bottom moves under the box, which raises the gearbox;
Now, using a 15 wrench, unscrew the central nut securing the pillow on the left;
Afterwards, you can unscrew the 2 bolts securing the support with a 13 key, and the support itself is removed;
Next, a new support is installed and reassembled;
Having completed the stage, you need to go down under the car, then unscrew a couple of 17 nuts (attach the pillow to the body);
After this, unscrew two more nuts securing the element to the gearbox and remove the rear support;
All that remains is to use a 19mm wrench to unscrew the nut that secures the cushion to the bracket, then remove the old cushion and install the new element;
Reassembly completes the process; at this point, the replacement of the VAZ 2110 engine mounts can be considered completed;

Let us also add that for VAZ engines with 16 valves, both the process of removing and replacing the side airbags itself is no different from the process discussed above. When it comes to replacing the front lower airbag, you need to work from below.

First, use a 15mm wrench to unscrew the bolt that secures the front lower support rod to the cross member of the car's front suspension. Afterwards, the nut of the bolt that attaches the support to the engine bracket is unscrewed, and the bolt itself is removed.

To unscrew the bolt, you will need two 15mm wrenches. Now the support can be removed and only the pad or the weight of the entire element can be changed. Now we can proceed to reverse assembly.

The overall process of replacing the pillows is completed by unscrewing the fastening bolt of the upper front support to the body with a 17mm wrench. The bolt nut can be held by hand.

Then the bolt and nut are removed, after which, using a 15mm wrench, the bolt securing the front upper support to the power unit bracket is unscrewed (the bolt and nut are also removed). Next, the support is removed, the cushion or the entire assembly is changed, and reassembly is performed.

As you can see, the VAZ 2110 16-valve engine mount changes almost exactly the same as on an 8-valve internal combustion engine. The only difference is that there are more supports themselves, and the rear support is changed from below (in the bottom area). At the same time, with the right approach, there are still no special difficulties; it is quite possible to change the cushions on this type of internal combustion engine with your own hands in the conditions of an ordinary garage.

Having installed new VAZ engine mounts (engine mounts for 2110, 2112 and other similar models), you should start the engine to check. If the pillows or supports are of high quality, and the replacement itself is carried out correctly, normally there will be practically no vibrations.

Replacing the right damper support

Before changing the right engine mount of a VAZ 2110 car following the video example, you should install wheel chocks and also disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. The further process is carried out according to the following scheme:

Loosen the generator fasteners with a 13mm wrench and remove the belt drive.
Loosen the tensioner bolt.
Jack up the right side of the car.
Using a 15mm wrench, unscrew the nut securing the support.
Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the support to the bracket.
Using a 17mm socket, unscrew the three bolts securing the bracket to the right side member.
Remove the bracket and install the new support in the reverse order.

Replacing the left damper support

The procedure for changing the engine damper on the left side of the car is performed in the following order:

Remove the car crankcase protection.
Place a jack under the car in the area of the gearbox, place a wooden beam and lift the car, removing the load from the support.
Using a 15mm socket and a wrench, unscrew the support pin fasteners.
Release the support stop.
Lower the jack slightly to freely remove the support pin.
Using a 13mm socket, remove the fasteners of the engine support to the body.
Pull the support towards the motor.
Remove the lower support stop and install the new part in the reverse order.

Replacing the rear damper mount

Reading how to change the rear engine mounts on a VAZ 2110 and watching the video is half the battle. It is important to strictly adhere to the order of repair work:

Remove the engine crankcase protection.
Using a 17mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the support to the car body.
Using two 19mm wrenches, unscrew the two bolts securing the gearbox and remove the support.
Clamp the removed bracket in a vice and use a 19mm wrench to unscrew the bolt securing the support.
Remove the bolt and install a new rubber support in the bracket.
Assembly of the unit is performed in the reverse order while maintaining the perpendicularity of the mating planes.

Based on practical experience, it can be argued that the process of replacing the damper supports of the power unit on the “ten” is not particularly difficult. Usually, after repair, vibrations disappear, but if everything remains unchanged, then the solution to the problem may lie in a different plane. It makes sense then to look for a problem in the suspension or in the CV joint components.

Video “Instructions for dismantling the heater radiator on a VAZ 2110”

How to replace the heater radiator on a domestic “ten” at home, see the video below (the author of the video is NlCKRUS).

On the VAZ 10th family, which includes the VAZ 2110-2112 models, the designers used an electronically controlled interior heating system, thanks to which the temperature set by the driver is maintained automatically.

On the VAZ-2110, instead of a manual heater control mechanism with a cable drive of the main elements - the coolant shut-off valve and dampers, an automatic heater control system (AHC) controller with a temperature sensor and a gearmotor that regulates the position of the dampers are used.

In such a stove, the valve for shutting off the antifreeze supply is no longer used, and the adjustment of the heater operating mode - “heating” or “ventilation” - is carried out by a central damper, which directs the air flow through the radiator or bypassing it.

When to change the radiator?

Radiator radiator leak - the malfunction is indisputable, noticeable immediately, if not by traces of antifreeze under the car, or by a drop in the fluid level in the expansion tank.

The situation is much more complicated when there are no signs of leakage, and the radiator does not heat up even at high antifreeze temperatures. In this case, either a clogged or clogged radiator or several other reasons could be to blame for the drop in temperature:

air clogging in the cooling system;
broken thermostat;
crack in the hot air distribution system;
air leakage through leaky air ducts (this is the most severe disease of the entire tenth family);
low level of antifreeze in the expansion tank.

Antifreeze leaks under the radiator are an obvious reason to look for a leak.

Heating system diagnostics

In a word, before buying a new radiator or removing the old one for repairs, you must carefully check the entire cooling system so as not to throw money away.

Speaking of money, it's a breeze - a gas station will require at least 2000 rubles to replace the radiator. Therefore, it is cheaper to do all the work on replacing the radiator yourself.

How malfunctions manifest themselves

The automatic temperature maintenance system used on the VAZ-2110 is more convenient in terms of control, since the automatic control system does everything independently, but is less reliable than a mechanical cable drive. Moreover, problems are caused by the electronic and electrical components of the stove - the controller, temperature sensor and micromotor gearbox, the central damper, which regulates the air supply to the cabin from the outside.

Problems with the operation of the VAZ-2110 heater related to the damper:

lack of temperature control (only hot or cold air comes from the stove) regardless of the position of the handle on the controller;
insufficient air heating (even when setting the handle to the maximum temperature);
squeaks, knocks and extraneous noises after setting the temperature.

The cause of such problems is the central damper of the VAZ-2110 stove, which is adjusted by the controller through a gearbox. The design of the stove includes another damper - air distribution into zones. It is controlled using a handle mounted on the central air supply deflector into the cabin, so malfunctions with this part are rare.

Features of the design of the VAZ - 2110 stove damper

Note that VAZ-2110 of different years of manufacture uses heaters that differ in design:

1. Old-style stove damper

Old heaters use two central dampers, one of which blocks the flow of air into the cabin from the outside, and the second one redirects the air flow to the heater radiator or bypasses it. They are interconnected by drives and opened by a micromotor gearbox.

2. New sample

What do you need for work?

First of all, you will need a new heater radiator. The choice is presented in a fairly wide range, so decide for yourself here.

As for tools and materials, be sure to check the condition of the system pipes. It is possible that they are also damaged, so they will have to be replaced.

Buy a set of clamps. In general, you will need three of them, but it is better to take a reserve just in case. Moreover, this “just in case” happens to every second person who changes a stove radiator with their own hands.

Tools include a short Phillips screwdriver and tweezers . The latter will help you install the latches.

Causes of malfunctions

Depending on the design of the stove, the damper may cause a disruption in the efficient operation of the heater for the following reasons:

deformation;
wear of seals;
deterioration or damage to control levers and rods;
skew.

Deformation is a problem with old-style heaters. The first dampers of the VAZ-2110 stove were equipped with plastic elements that bent under the influence of temperature. Because of this, even when completely closed, cold air from outside leaks in and mixes with the heated air, and the efficiency of the stove decreases. Subsequently, the designers replaced the plastic flaps with aluminum ones and the problem with deformation disappeared.

To ensure tightness, the dampers have seals that reduce air leakage. Initially, foam rubber seals were used, which quickly wore out and became damaged. Later, foam rubber was replaced with rubber, but this only extended the service life of the seal; over time, the rubber ages, cracks and collapses.

On old-style stoves, rods and levers may break. On new heaters, there is another problem - wear on the edges of the square end of the gearbox, with which it is inserted into the groove made in the damper axis. As a result, the limit switch bypasses the groove, and the heater damper jams, although the gearmotor operates. The misalignment occurs due to the displacement of the damper axis in the mounting holes of the housing. Because of this, the damper warps and jams when opening.

Replacement procedure

The radiator of the VAZ-2110 stove is replaced from under the hood. Before starting work, carefully remove the insulation from the rear wall of the engine compartment. In the opened space you can see the stove body, which is under plastic protection. To remove the heater radiator, you will have to dismantle the wipers, plastic protection, air intakes, as well as the plastic ski under the windshield. When removing the ski, carefully remove the wiring that goes to the windshield washer. They are unhooked directly near the washer reservoir, then carefully removed from the engine compartment.

Next, the plastic housing containing the heating system radiator is dismantled. Before this, you need to unscrew all visible screws and carefully unclip the latches holding its components. This is a complex and painstaking job, in which there is no need to rush so as not to damage the fragile plastic parts.

When removing housing elements, do not damage the stove motor, which is attached to its cover. There is one more feature when dismantling the plastic protection. When removing the plastic housing that directly covers the heater radiator, it is necessary to unclip two latches that are located in its lower part. The problem is that they are absolutely invisible from the engine compartment; everything needs to be done with a screwdriver, carefully and by touch, so as not to break off these fasteners.

The radiator is located in the central part of the case and can be seen after removing the casing. On the right side there are hoses that go to the stove, and a hose leading to the expansion tank. To continue operation, you must drain the coolant from the cooling system. This can be done by unscrewing the hose that is attached to the injector. The disconnected hose must be taken out into some container so that it is below the level of the stove, then all the antifreeze will leave the radiator. After this, you can disconnect the hoses from the stove, since it will be dry.

Sometimes it happens that the hoses become woody, in which case it is better to simply cut them off and then replace them. After this, you can remove the heater radiator from the socket with virtually no effort. By looking at the removed part, you can identify leaks of antifreeze - a sure sign of depressurization of the radiator.

Having made sure that the stove radiator needs to be replaced, when purchasing a new unit, you need to pay attention to its model; you will need the old version, and the kit should include new pipes. In addition, buy new antifreeze, since some of it spills out when installing the heater radiator. A volume of 4 liters will be sufficient.

Before reassembling, thoroughly clean and rinse the seat, then install the heater radiator. Everything is put together in reverse order. When assembling a stove with an old-style heater, we pay attention to several important points. When reassembling the plastic case, you must make sure that its pedal fits into the groove intended for it. All components must clearly fit into their seat; if this is not done, there will be problems with the supply of warm air and the plastic casing will have to be disassembled again.

After assembly, antifreeze is poured through the expansion tank to the level so as not to get a cold heater radiator after repair, and the engine starts. When it warms up, you need to turn on the stove and let it run for a few minutes. This will help ensure that there are no leaks and that you can set the normal temperature inside the car. If the coolant level in the expansion tank drops, it must be topped up.

Diagnosis of the problem

If the reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work is the damper, it is not difficult to identify it. To do this, disassemble the central deflector, turn on the ignition and rotate the temperature setting knob to its extreme positions. In a working stove, the central damper will not knock and will completely open and close the air supply channel.

If the heater damper does not move or stops in a position that does not completely block the air passage, it may be stuck. You can verify this by pushing the valve with your hand or a long rod. If after this the damper returns to its normal position, then this is the reason why it is jammed. Through the mounting hole of the deflector, you can assess the condition of the damper and its seals. If the damper is deformed, its bend is clearly visible.

Repair and restoration of the stove damper

The deformed heater damper of the VAZ-2110 cannot be repaired; it only needs to be replaced. In this case, it is better to purchase a replacement metal part that is not so susceptible to temperature effects.

Whatever heater is installed on the VAZ-2110, to carry out repair work, the heater must be completely disassembled. In this case, the process of dismantling and disassembling depends on the design of the stove.

A positive aspect of the heater design on the VAZ - 2101 is its location - to get to it and the dampers you can from the engine compartment and you don’t have to remove the front panel.

Disassembling an old-style stove

For example, let's look at how to disassemble an old-style heater:

Remove the terminal from the battery.
We remove the windshield wipers, the seal, remove the air intake near the windshield (“jabot”) from the car, in the process you will need to disconnect the windshield washer nozzle tubes.
We dismantle the insulation that separates the stove body from the engine compartment.
We remove the gear motor.
We divide the housing of the stove and air filter into two halves. To do this, unscrew the coupling bolts around the perimeter of the housings and remove the mounting brackets.
Disconnect the fan power wires.
Remove the outer half of the air filter and heater housing (along with the fan).
We dismantle the inner part of the fan housing.

After this you will have access to the dampers. If you are only planning to repair or replace the heater dampers, there is no need to drain the antifreeze, since the heater radiator will remain in place and will not be removed.

Before removing the dampers, carefully inspect and remember their position and the way they are engaged. Further actions depend on the nature of the damage. Deformed damper parts cannot be repaired and only need to be replaced. As for damaged rods and levers, try to repair them or simply replace them. The damaged seal is replaced.

When assembling the stove, pay special attention to the engagement of the dampers. Do it as it was before disassembly, otherwise the dampers will not work correctly, which will affect the performance of the heater.

Disassembly and repair of a new type heater

The new model stoves are disassembled differently:

disconnect the battery terminal, drain the antifreeze;
dismantle the frill and insulation;
disconnect the power wires of the fan and micromotor gearbox;
unscrew the fasteners that secure the stove body to the body;
disconnect the coolant supply pipes to the heater radiator;
We remove the heater from the car along with the filter housing.

After this, we disassemble the stove body, dividing it into two halves, after first disconnecting the air filter housing and removing the mounting brackets. Next, we change or repair the damper, assemble the heater and install it on the car.

Note that the general algorithms of work are indicated above, but in reality, dismantling the stove is not so easy, since many fasteners are located in hard-to-reach places, sometimes you have to disconnect or remove elements that make it difficult or interfering with the removal of the unit.

Necessary tool for replacement on VAZ-2110

For dozens of older pre-2003 editions, the replacement is a little more complicated than the upgraded post-2003 2110 edition, but in any case, for the replacement we will need the following tools and supplies:

container for draining antifreeze (with a wide neck);
a set of screwdrivers with a square, extension and ratchet;
Screwdriver Set;
four new screw clamps;
if you plan to replace antifreeze, use new antifreeze;
correctly modified heater core (not interchangeable).

Replacing the heater radiator of the tenth family of a new model

Before disassembling, drain the antifreeze into a prepared container - if you have not completely replaced the fluid, you only need to drain it from the cylinder block by unscrewing the cap and placing the container under the engine. If you are replacing it, also drain the antifreeze from the radiator.

If a complete replacement of antifreeze is not planned, it can be partially drained, as shown in the photo (the expansion tank cap must be closed).

Before draining, remove the expansion tank cap and get to work:

After draining the liquid, you can and should disassemble the expansion tank - loosen the screw clamps, remove the hoses, and unscrew the bolts securing the tank.
The hood gasket should be in the way, remove it.
Remove the sound and heat insulation from the engine casing. To do this, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew all the screws on the insulation from above. From below, the insulation is attached to the body with two bolts with a 10-mm head. It is more convenient to unscrew them using a high head with a cardan and an extension.
Unscrew the plastic clamps from the insulating layer.
We remove the finishing elements.
Disconnect the connectors from the brake fluid level sensor on the reservoir cap.
Remove the power steering vacuum tube from the body and set it aside.
Using a 17mm socket and a ratchet, unscrew the master cylinder and carefully turn it forward without disconnecting the brake hoses.
Go inside and disconnect the brake light switch connectors.
Using a high head (13), unscrew the nuts securing the brake pedal and vacuum booster.
From under the hood we take out the power steering with the pedal. There is no need to remove the plastic trim at the bottom of the windshield; everything can be lifted without it. Lift the vacuum unit and pull the pedal out through this hole. Move the vacuum valve to the side.
The heater housing of the new copy is assembled from two parts, which greatly simplifies its dismantling. All you need to do is unscrew the three threaded bolts and first remove the right and then the left part. Remove the heater housing.
Gain full access to the heater hoses by unscrewing the screw clamps on the inlet and outlet hoses and one steam vent.
The radiator is installed at four points - a screw on top at the edge of the glass, two nuts at the height of the collector and one on the left near the filter. Find the screws that secure the radiator and remove them.
Remove the old radiator, clean and rinse the cavity from dust and dirt, install a new or repaired old radiator. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Pull out the old radiator. Clean the heater body from dirt.

Remove the cover gasket and threshold plate.
Remove the hose from this fitting.
Remove the brake master cylinder.
Remove the brake pedal mounting nuts.
Remove the heater housing.
Disconnect the connectors from the old radiator.
Find the screws that secure the heating element and unscrew them.

After reassembly, check the operation of the heating element; the joints should be hot. If they do not heat up in the air seal system, remove it and check again.

We are replacing the stove 2110 of the old modification

A slightly different technology for disassembling a VAZ-2110 radiator heater of an old design.

Therefore, after draining the fluid and disconnecting the fan hoses, remove the frill, wipers and windshield trim. The radiator is held in place by clamps, 4 of which need to be removed.

Removing the windshield trim and heater casing clips.

After that:

Unscrew the cabin filter mounting bolts; when unscrewing the bolts, remember their position (among them there are 4 long ones).
Remove the fan with part of the casing. Remove the front part of the casing along with the fan.
Pull out the filter housing and the back of the fan housing.
Loosen the clamps and remove the three hoses (inlet, outlet and exhaust). Disconnect the hoses and pull out the old radiator.
Pull out the heater core.

When unscrewing the screws, remember their position (4 of them are long).
Remove the front part of the case with the fan.
Pull out the filter housing and the back of the fan housing.
Disconnect the hoses and pull out the old radiator.