Lowering VAZ-classic 2101-2107, VAZ-2108-2114 (Samara), priors, viburnums and grants

alexx600oo › Blog › My hobby. Budget landing 2114 “super car”.

Hi all.
Today after work a client arrived to plant another Vase. I have no desire to discuss the very necessity and meaning of planting, because... this will be a shit topic. But personally, I am FOR adequate planting of the VAZ! For me there are only advantages from it.

I decided to try to capture the whole action and reflect the process in detail. Maybe it would be better to create an entry in the b/w of my ex 08, but still this entry does not quite apply to her.

So, what we have: a VAZ 2114 with an engine and suspension from Priora. I’m not a fan of experiments, so I told the person in advance about the need to purchase lowering front springs. For the life of me, I don’t understand the heated or sawn front Prior springs. Let's start to sort it out.

We remove the wheel. Remove the tip pin. I use a puller, but many people make do with a crowbar and a hammer.

Next, we take out the brake hose from the clamp on the rack and unscrew and remove the bolts responsible for adjusting the camber.

Then unscrew the three nuts under the hood that secure the support to the body.

That's it, the rack has been removed and is ready for further disassembly. It is advisable to compress the spring with special ties, but I have already gotten used to doing this without them.

We install “low springs” instead of the drain and assemble everything in the reverse order, without using zip ties.

Next, fix the strut to the body using the support nuts. We insert the camber adjustment bolts, insert the brake hose into the groove and also tighten and cotter the tip pin.

The second side runs in the same direction.

Now I want to talk separately about camber and toe-in. I often come across posts, especially on VK, that people park their cars without doing a wheel alignment. I completely disagree with this, because... the position of the body relative to the ground changes, the length of the lever remains unchanged, therefore the camber goes away. And if the camber goes away, then the toe-in is correspondingly lost, and it is precisely because of it that it begins to “eat” rubber. In general, this is a matter for everyone - I expressed my position.

I always make the camber a little negative on the PP, because... this has a positive effect on handling and does not harm the tires.

With the rear axle, everything is simpler: unscrew the top nut in the cup under the shelf, then hang the car and unscrew the bottom bolt securing the strut in the beam. I don’t see any reason to set the rear springs to lower ones, because... 99% of cars are used for civilian purposes and there is no smell of real sport. Yes, and underestimation of the global is not usually planned. Therefore, we simply saw off the required number of turns with a grinder. If you don’t agree, for God’s sake, buy ready-made products, I don’t mind at all.

Assembly should be carried out slowly, because... It’s important not to forget any rubber bands. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything all over again. The rubber on the body must be removed and installed on the spring, because This will make it easier to put it in place.

That's basically it. The whole process takes me from 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the car.

Important details: — do not forget to insert the brake hose into the groove; - use an angle grinder with glasses; - lubricate the bolts that adjust the camber, this will greatly simplify their removal in the future and insert these bolts with the head forward, and not vice versa, because this simplifies camber adjustment.

I really hope that this post will encourage someone to do their own repairs, because... it really brings you closer to the car. ))) I was glad to help, if I helped of course.

Lada 2114 ☝ GrApHiTe MeTaLLic › Logbook › Proper lowering, complete suspension replacement.

Hi all. I finally got around to hanging it, how long have I been waiting for this moment, but I debated even longer whether it was worth taking it or maybe not, but I took it anyway, then I had doubts about whether to install it or not, I was embarrassed by the fact that the whole Internet was just talking about from June 1, they will be fined for understating, but despite all my doubts, I still installed what I had been dreaming about for so long) As soon as I bought the car, the idea immediately came to understate it, because she was just an unreal jeep =)

and then I firmly decided that . . .

Then a long and painful search began for the suspension; I wanted it to be moderately low and soft, and opted for short-travel struts from ASTON.

The racks are oil, there are a lot of positive reviews about them, everyone wrote that they are very comfortable and soft on them, that’s why I chose this model. Next, I chose which springs to install, someone advised to saw stock ones, then it would be generally soft, and someone advised to buy ready-made ones and not suffer, I followed the second advice and bought ready-made springs.

There are also a lot of positive reviews about these springs, not oak but not soft either, in general the best option.

The next stage was the choice of support bearings, I didn’t think too much about this, and chose SEVI EXTREME support bearings, which for me are the best option in terms of price and quality ratio.

then I took the suspension components: 1) Sound insulators front and rear SS20 2) Strut boots, front and rear 3) Polyurethane silent blocks 4) Bump stops 5) All new bolts and nuts. Everything else was changed quite recently, and therefore I did not buy anything else.

Well, then the installation process began) I was very afraid that what was written in the picture would happen, because... problems would increase significantly =)

But surprisingly, everything came off very easily and well) they started changing the front struts first) I left 2 bump stop divisions at the front)

Then the rear part) I also left 2 bump stop divisions at the rear)

After all the manipulations with the suspension I went to the alignment) Well, after the alignment I drove around and enjoyed the suspension) What I want to say about these struts, these guys are really worth the money, I don’t regret one bit that I took them, the ride is very comfortable and soft, considering that that the wheels are R15, on wheels of a smaller diameter it will be generally ideal, the car does not jump, does not throw to the sides, unevenness handles perfectly, to be honest, it has even become much softer if you compare your STOCK struts, in general I am very pleased with them so far)) I think that I can’t find a better option, I don’t take the pneuma into account)) Well, a couple of photos of how the car sat on these racks)

Lowering springs SS20 Racing for VAZ

These springs allow you to lower the car to the desired height, significantly improve handling, reduce sagging during acceleration and braking, and body roll when cornering.

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Applicability

• VAZ 2108-2110
• VAZ 1117,1119 (LADA Kalina)
• VAZ 2190 (LADA Granta)
• VAZ 2170 (LADA Priora)

Benefits of SS20 Racing Lowering Springs

• lowering to the desired height -30, -50, -70 while maintaining comfort;
• stylish sporty appearance of the car;
• improving aerodynamics, increasing the speed characteristics of the car;
• stability and safety at high speed;
• improved handling when maneuvering at high speed;
• reduction of “dive” and body roll during braking, “squat” during acceleration.

Guarantee

The SS20 Racing lowering springs are a new addition to the SS20 SPORT series of products for drivers who prefer a fast, active driving style. These are springs for those who care not only about the appearance of the car, but also about the correct operation of the suspension and steering when the ground clearance is lowered, confidence and safety on sharp turns.

SS20 Racing lowering springs have the following features

• made of high-quality Japanese steel using the cold-winding , which significantly increases the service life;
• have progressive characteristics: optimal suspension stiffness at low loads and a proportional increase in stiffness as the vehicle load increases, during roll when cornering or extreme braking;
• matched in pairs with identical characteristics, which ensures even lowering without body distortion;
• work without shrinkage 2 times longer than hot-rolled springs;
• the weight of the springs is reduced to 25% compared to the standard ones (depending on the car model);
• have a durable and resistant powder coating that protects against corrosion;
• have a polyurethane protective braid that protects the coils from damage when closed;
• When installed with SS20 Racing Series shocks, these springs provide your choice of -30, -50, -70 or -90mm drop.

Ways to lower a car

How to lower a car correctly

Air suspension. The most expensive way to lower or raise a car at will. I won’t dwell on it; you can get acquainted with such an adjustable suspension on the VAZ in this article.

Understatement -70/-90 at 2114

Greetings to my subscribers. Well, as we understand, we will talk about underestimation. For a long time I wanted to lower the car, but never got around to it. So I drove for 7 years without understating it. The factory suspension was there all along. I drove 78 thousand on it. Well, more or less the suspension was still alive.

So I chose Aston struts, SS-20 cups, Technoresor springs, rear donuts, SS-20 sound insulators too, Demfi bumpers, TRT balls with polyurethane covers, I also installed polyurethane boots on the front and rear. At first it was very unusual to drive with such a lowered suspension, but I got used to it and even began to like it. Now it’s possible to maneuver at a relatively high speed, there is no roll at all, the car seems to be nailed to the road. Very pleased with the stands. I didn't put spacers on the balls. I also replaced the external grenade covers with polyurethane ones.

How to lower a VAZ 2114 correctly

Post by tazmen72 » 07 Jul 2012, 14:33

I've been reading the forum for a long time, but I decided to register and ask for advice on undervaluation.

what we have: 2114 with standard suspension, r13 wheels, 175/75 tires

in the future I plan to change the wheels to white forged r15 with tires something like 195/50

you need to lower it without sawing the arches or shuffling your wheels against them.

Which struts with springs are best to buy? Or maybe it’s better to cut the drain, because I don’t need rigidity, but I need a beautiful fit? And is it really possible to do it yourself, is there a lot of hassle in replacing the struts, or should I go to a hundred?

Now I’ll try to find pictures of chepyreks on the Internet with a lowering that I like

Lowering a car (for example, lowering a VAZ ) is one of the most common areas of tuning a VAZ.

The most common solution for novice tuners is to take and cut off several coils of suspension springs. Some manage to do this without even removing the shock absorbers from the car. This approach to undervaluing a car is fundamentally wrong.

Lowering VAZ-classic 2101-2107, VAZ-2108-2114 (Samara), priors, viburnums and grants

Currently one of the most common types of VAZ tuning

there is
an understatement

VAZ
cars .
Now, first of all, after purchasing a car, enterprising “tuners” cut the spring
, and the most common question on the Internet is:
“How many turns should I cut
on the basin so that the car lies flat?”

For those who want to lower their VAZ, they will need to take care of purchasing special racks for lowering the car. After all, under each lowered spring it is necessary to install lowered struts and shock absorbers

.
Because on them the stroke of the rod is changed, for the springs having a specific understatement. Otherwise, the rack will work poorly and will quickly fail. They also very often ask the question about the preferred lowering for the front and rear. So, the suspension works well up to a lowering of -50, then you need to get used to it. The next question: “How to choose the right struts and springs so that the car sits level?” To lower the VAZ 2110, 2112, Classics, Priors and Kalinas,
it is necessary to take front and rear lowered struts, shock absorbers and springs with the same lowering.
And in order to lower the VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114,
you need to take the rear lower than the front.
For example, when purchasing front struts and springs -70 mm
, springs and shock absorbers with a lowering of
-90 mm