Signs of faulty engine mounts, how to determine the fault. Engine hydraulic mount: how is it designed, how to diagnose it and can it be repaired?


03.07.2019
(Votes: 5, Rating: 4.2)

Issues discussed in the material:

  • What is an engine mount or mount?
  • For what reason can an engine mount break?
  • How to understand that the engine mount has become unusable
  • How to change an engine mount

An engine mount is a support structure that maximally softens vibrations of the engine in the engine compartment of the car. An ideally functioning cushion should completely dampen any engine vibrations, preventing vibration from spreading throughout the body.

Types and types of engine mounts

Before checking anything, it is also necessary to understand the purpose of the part, what malfunctions of the element may occur, as well as what signs of failure. As you know, the engine weighs quite a lot and vibrates during operation. This means that if the internal combustion engine is rigidly attached to the car body, then all vibrations will be transmitted to the latter.

When driving over uneven surfaces, the mounting points of the power unit experience significant loads. A rigid attachment to the body will mean that the fasteners and their installation location will quickly begin to break. To ensure that the overall design is reliable and comfort is maintained, special supports are used to mount the internal combustion engine.

A cushion (engine support) is a part that serves to fix the power unit, prevents it from moving and dampens vibrations during operation. In essence, this is a real gasket, only quite large. It is placed between the engine and the car body, that is, it is attached both to the power unit and to the body itself. The number of pillows depends on the make and model of the car; there are from three to five.

If you open the hood, you can immediately see the top (right support). The rest are located on the underside of the motor. Again, placement points depend on the car model, engine and gearbox type. In most cases, engine mounts consist of a rubber housing and metal fasteners.

Sometimes polyurethane is used instead of rubber, which is more wear-resistant. In expensive cars, more complex and modern options are installed - hydraulic ones. The vibration damping efficiency is naturally much higher.

Such supports consist of two chambers, between which a membrane is located. Either propylene glycol or a special liquid (gel) is used as a filler in the chambers. During operation, depending on road conditions (for example, on uneven surfaces), it flows from one chamber to another through special channels, and the overall rigidity of the cushion dynamically changes thanks to this design.

There are different types of hydraulic supports:

  • Electronically controlled. The computer changes the rigidity of the support by receiving and processing signals - vibrations, the strength of which changes depending on the situation. The liquid inside such a pillow often contains metal particles and the density changes under the influence of a magnetic field. Thanks to such technologies, it is possible to achieve maximum comfort in the car interior, regardless of engine operating mode and road conditions;
  • With mechanical control. A simpler option. Technical characteristics are set at the assembly stage. It depends on them in what mode the maximum benefit will be: at idle or at different engine operating modes.

Of course, high-tech devices are installed on very expensive cars. On budget options, and even more so on old Soviet models, simple rubber-metal supports are installed. In case of breakdown or wear (usually they last about 100,000 km), they are simply replaced. And the hydraulics can be repaired. And even on your own. However, before removing the mounts, you need to know how to check the engine gel mount, rubber mount, etc.

Device and diagnostics

The design of the hydraulic part of the engine mount is simple. Inside it, under the main load-bearing rubber stop (like a support without hydraulics), there are two compartment chambers located one above the other, filled with liquid. The chambers are separated by a rubber damping wall-membrane, but they also communicate with each other through a small hole - a throttling flow. At small vibration amplitudes the membrane resists the vibrations, at large amplitudes the flow channel comes into operation. In essence, such a support has two “sub-ranges” in which it exhibits different damping characteristics.

Despite the fact that the liquid in a failed support is usually black with rubber dust, the hydraulic part of the support rarely suffers from physical wear - as a rule, the rubber block is the first to give out, losing elasticity with age due to partial detachments from the metal, micro-tears and cracks.

It is important to understand that the liquid and, in general, the entire hydraulic part in the rubber-hydraulic support does not play a leading role, but an auxiliary one. The mass of the engine, as is the case with conventional rubber mounts, is supported by a powerful elastic rubber element. And if for some reason the liquid leaves the support (which sometimes happens due to a break in the elastic bottom or due to a leak in the rolling of parts of the body), then a catastrophe will not occur - except that the level of vibrations in the body will increase. And it’s not a fact that even throughout the entire speed range - the defect is usually more noticeable at idle.

However, it is still not worth delaying the replacement of the support - the increased amplitude of the engine’s swing causes it, when starting or gaining speed under load, to hit the stationary elements of the engine compartment, which can damage various pipes, hoses, and wires. And the rest, usually still quite alive, the supports begin to wear out intensively after the death of the leading, hydraulic one.

1 / 3 2 / 3 3 / 3

If you take the support by the working part (the one to which the bracket connecting it to the engine is screwed) and swing it (by the support in its pure form or by the engine itself), then you will not feel its “hydraulic essence” in any way - only ordinary rubber elasticity. Therefore, visually, faults in the rubber-hydraulic cushion are usually impossible to detect. Well, with the exception of cases where liquid is openly leaking from it... Both the new support and the dead one respond with a certain elasticity to a manually applied force - without experience or at least comparison with a similar machine with a known good support, finding the problem alone is difficult for a non-specialist, although an experienced mechanic can do it it's easy.

Therefore, to diagnose the serviceability of the airbag in garage conditions, it is necessary to observe the behavior of the support in conditions close to working conditions, when the assistant accelerates under load (turning on the “D” mode or slightly releasing the clutch on the handbrake). The amplitude of the engine swing and the possible contact of the central axial fastener with the support of its holder (body) is controlled, which is unacceptable:

Repair of rubber-hydraulic bearings is not practiced. They are non-separable and there are no spare parts for them on sale. Although there is a garage practice of replacing supports with similar ones (we will not use the term “similar”) from other models and even brands of cars. The fastenings at the supports are redone - holes are re-drilled, adapter plates are made, etc.

In principle, when using supports from another car with an engine of comparable power and weight, such tricks are generally workable and are acceptable out of desperation. It’s just that it is extremely undesirable to use cushions from transversely mounted ones on longitudinally located motors, and vice versa - the shear and compression loads are calculated completely differently, and such supports do not work correctly if installed incorrectly - they either do not dampen vibrations or are quickly destroyed.

Popular questions

Change the air conditioner filter

Posted: 01/09/2015 Is there a cabin filter on the Gret Wall Safe?

More details

Change the connecting rod bushing

Posted: 07/04/2014 Hello dear users. Although I’m not a guru, I’ll try to give you some advice. In principle, the third video shows the process itself quite well and briefly and you can easily find the shaft bushing...

More details

Removing the gas tank flap

Posted: 07/19/2015 Removing the gas tank flap on most car models is not particularly difficult. First you need to open the hatch

Afterwards, the trim in the trunk is carefully folded back. It is necessary to remove...

More details

Replace power steering

Posted: 12/04/2014 A week ago, my brother and I were returning from the dacha and suddenly the power steering broke down. The fact is that as soon as the car overheats, the steering wheel begins to jam. In some places, it doesn’t turn left at all...

More details

Removing the trunk trim

Posted: 07/20/2015 The most important thing that I have understood over the years of my experience is that when removing any trim, no matter what: the roof, trunk or anything else, do not accidentally tear off the rivets/screws... Read more

Replacing brake pipes

More details

Replacing brake pipes

Posted: 06/03/2014 An old song about the main thing) Last year I had to replace the brake system pipes with new ones on my old UAZ. The problem is no longer that new ones need to be installed, but how to dismantle the old ones...

More details

Installing Valve Guides

Posted: 12/04/2014 Hello, car enthusiasts. Guide bushings are replaced mainly after the timing belt breaks. The valves can also wear out over time. The very first thing we do is remove the battery...

More details

How to remove the dashboard

Posted: 01/05/2016 Tell me, the heater temperature regulator is not working, probably the cable has come loose. How to remove the heater panel, where the automatic transmission is in the way, how to disconnect it? Maybe there is a video?

More details

How to replace front control arm silent blocks

Posted: 06/19/2014 Silent blocks, or as they are popularly called daisies, often fail and lead to a loose lever. The best thing about the replacement is the price; the daisies themselves on one side cost a lot...

More details

Installing the rear wheel bearing

Posted: 11/27/2014I recommend using Vologda or Samara wheel bearings, as far as I know the Chinese are very fond of counterfeiting, so it’s not a fact that you bought Polish ones. and in general such a thing is lu...

More details

Design features

A rigid engine mount contributes to the transmission of noise into the car interior and increases the load on the internal combustion engine parts, since the body inevitably “plays” when driving over uneven surfaces. Therefore, vibration-damping materials are used in the design of the pillows. In modern automotive industry, several types of support designs are used:

  • rubber-metal cushion. The units are fastened to metal elements, between which there is a layer of rubber. The silent blocks used in car suspensions have an identical design. This type of pillow is the most common because it has a long resource and low production cost. Some types of rubber-metal supports use springs to increase rigidity, as well as buffer elements to reduce shock loads. Rubber alloy or polyurethane is used as a damping material;
  • hydraulic cushion. The operating principle is close to the operation of shock absorbers. The design of hydraulic mounts is more progressive, since it allows vibration damping to be adapted to the changing amplitude of engine and gearbox vibrations. The device assumes the presence of a working fluid, a membrane, upper (working) and lower (expansion) chambers, as well as a throttling channel. At idle speed, vibrations of the internal combustion engine are dampened by a membrane. As the speed increases, the rigidity of the membrane is not enough, so vibration damping begins to be carried out by hydraulic fluid. Thanks to this principle of operation, the cushion remains soft at idle, changing hardness only as engine speed increases.

We will not consider the design of electromagnetic and electrovacuum engine mounts, since they are found only on luxury cars, where replacing an engine mount with your own hands is a phenomenon bordering on science fiction.

Where is the engine mount located and what does it look like?

Mounts can mount the engine to a subframe, frame, or directly to the car body. The photo shows the main types of supports, so even a novice car enthusiast can find an internal combustion engine support on his car by analogy. To securely fix the motor, at least 3 pillows are used. The most commonly used scheme is with three lower and two upper supports.

"Ford"

Vibrations on the car body at idle and while driving indicate that the engine mounts are out of order or damaged. Signs of malfunction (Ford Focus 2 as well) may be different. Ford Focus cars use two supports. The right one is hydraulic, the left one is the gearbox support. In case of damage, it is recommended to replace both elements.


Naturally, you can replace only the damaged one and the vibrations will go away, but the new support will be subjected to significantly greater loads and will fail much earlier than its intended life. As a replacement, it is worth purchasing original parts. Inexpensive analogues last less than 20 thousand kilometers.

Signs and causes of engine mounting problems

The main symptoms of faulty engine mountings are as follows:

  • strong vibration on the steering wheel when the engine is running;
  • knocking in the gearbox installation area when driving over uneven surfaces;
  • jerks in the transmission while driving and changing gears at high speed;
  • knocking under the hood when overcoming a rough road, as well as at idle and when the load changes while the engine is running;

When these signs appear, it is worth diagnosing the pillows. You can do this yourself.

Typical faults

If, while driving a car, a characteristic knocking noise has become clearly audible from under the hood, more precisely, from under the lower part of the engine or in the transmission area, if noise and vibration increase during the switching from 2nd to 4th gear, then this may be associated with malfunctions in the suspension or engine operation. Depending on the condition of the road surface, these sounds may become louder.

If the car is operated for a long time under conditions of severe loads or temperature changes, then all this does not have the best effect on the condition of the engine mounts. Over time, rubber loses its elasticity. In addition, the pillow may delaminate or crack, or even collapse.

But it is worth considering that the service life of these parts is quite long - more than 100,000 km. The supports are subjected to high loads when the vehicle starts and during braking. If the car owner likes to drive fast enough, with sharp jerks at the start, then the supports will not last their intended period.

Also among the typical faults is the breakdown of a metal aluminum bracket. This often happens when hitting a different obstacle. If there are oil leaks in the engine, it will definitely get onto the rubber part of the support. This lubricant can corrode the silent block and the support will fail.

Coolant also does not have the best effect on the rubber part of the cushion. Breakdowns in the system must be eliminated immediately. Do not overheat the engine. In addition to the cracked cylinder head, antifreeze from the expansion tank will also get onto the rubber parts. This will not have the best effect on their resource.

Torn engine mount: signs

Like any other part, the power plant support also has a limited service life and eventually fails. On average, airbags on modern cars are designed to last at least 100-120 thousand km, although in practice these elements may need to be replaced both earlier and much later than this period.

Usually the cause of problems is the rubber insert, which simply cracks and breaks under load. Less often, cracks appear in the metal part of the support, the installation sites of fasteners are broken, etc.

One way or another, the following symptoms usually indicate a malfunction of the engine mounts:

  1. The engine itself runs smoothly, but the driver feels a clear increase in vibrations in the body, on the steering wheel, on the gearshift knob, etc.;
  2. When you start moving from a standstill, as well as during braking, you can hear clicking or muffled knocking in the engine compartment;
  3. When driving on an uneven road, impacts are heard from the front of the car; in many cases such impacts are felt on the gearshift lever; shifting gears with a manual transmission at this moment can be difficult;

To check the engine mounts, it is not necessary to immediately go to a service station and drive the car to a stand. Usually, a fault can be identified and localized on your own, even if you do not have much experience in car repair and maintenance.

The simplest method of initial diagnosis is to rock the engine with your hands in the engine compartment, after which you can localize a torn or cracked support by knocking.

To carry out a more detailed check, you first need to find out in advance where exactly the supports are located on a particular model. Then the elements available for review will need to be pre-inspected. Cracks, breaks and other damage are usually visible and easily visible.

For a full visual assessment of the lower airbags, you need to be prepared for the fact that the car will need to be parked in a garage with an inspection hole, driven onto an overpass, or using a lift.

If a superficial diagnosis shows nothing, then the assistant should be used again. One person uses a pry bar to move the support, while the other watches for tears in the rubber insert at the very moment the support moves. It happens that some cracks are not immediately visible without rocking.

As for the replacement itself, replacing the top cushion is quite simple. The car needs to be jacked up, the old cushion removed and a new one installed. If you have to change the lower supports, it is also important to consider that the engine goes down after removing this cushion. This means that you will need an additional support that supports the internal combustion engine, allowing you to direct the cushion and properly secure this element.

Signs of wear on engine mounts

  1. Engine vibration at idle.
  2. Extraneous knocks while driving, felt in the engine compartment or under the gearbox.
  3. Jerks during dynamic acceleration of the car.
  4. Knocks in the engine compartment when starting or stopping the engine.
  5. Difficulty shifting gears.

On cars with hydraulic supports, in addition, acceleration dynamics may deteriorate. Visually, faulty airbags can be identified by delamination and ruptures of rubber dampers or breakage of aluminum brackets. An experienced specialist can also visually identify a sagging pillow by how severely its damper is deformed.

How to determine that the unit support has failed

Often, novice drivers do not know how to diagnose a faulty engine mount. Signs of such a breakdown are often confused with something else. The first signal that a support is broken is unpleasant sounds like clicking or knocking sounds in the front of the car when starting to move or when braking. Another sign is revealed when driving on uneven roads. Such a ride is necessarily accompanied by characteristic impacts in the front of the car. A sudden vibration can also indicate a malfunction of the airbag. Sometimes, when driving on bad roads, the gearshift lever may feel squeezing. This all indicates that there is a malfunction of the engine mount. These signs must be taken into account and then a diagnosis must be made. Sometimes it can be very difficult to determine if a support is broken. Typically, car enthusiasts attribute vibrations to the fact that the engine is not warm enough and often simply do not pay due attention to them. A characteristic sign that will tell you about the failure of a part is a creaking sound.

Checking engine mounts yourself

Making such a diagnosis is not at all difficult. Even if the car is equipped with hydraulic cushions. The main thing is to know how to check the right engine mount correctly, and also diagnose the others. This can be done in several ways, which are best used in conjunction with each other to make a more accurate diagnosis.

  • The first method is good for hydraulic supports. Having placed the car on a flat surface, you need to open the hood and start the engine. Then try to move slightly.

If the mountings are faulty, the engine will move from its place. In this case, characteristic sounds will be clearly audible. A similar check can be done with the engine not running, if you insert a pry bar or stick between the engine and the car body and try to shake the power unit from side to side.

  • The second way to check is this. With the engine running, you need to engage the gear and move away a few centimeters. On different types of gearboxes, when the airbags malfunction, characteristic jerking may be felt.

We also recommend reading the article on how to replace engine mounts (mounts) with your own hands. From this article you will learn about the available methods and features of replacing the support cushions of the power unit.

  • To check the lower supports you will need an inspection hole, a jack and a wooden block about half a meter high. Having lifted one wheel and replaced the jack with a block, you need to inspect the bottom of the cushion for cracks, ruptures, and leaks of hydraulic fluid. Of course, before this it is necessary to take safety measures to prevent the car from moving from its place (a wheel chock under the rear wheel, etc.).

In order for the supports to last as long as possible, you need to monitor your driving style. The principle “higher speed - fewer holes” must be thrown out of your head forever. In addition, engine mounts are more likely to fail if you move off frequently and abruptly. In a word, the fewer sharp fluctuations in the internal combustion engine, the less often you will have to check the serviceability of the engine mounts.

Checking rubber-metal engine mounts

The first method , which will help determine the malfunction, is the simplest, but the least informative. Open the hood, ask the assistant to start the engine, and then slowly move away, driving literally 10 centimeters, then turn on the reverse gear and move back. If the engine changes its position as a result of changing vehicle driving modes, or it vibrates too much, most likely the problem is in the airbags. This method is best suited for checking the right, or upper, engine mount - it is clearly visible under the hood. However, several airbags or a problem with the lower support may fail at once, so it’s worth moving on to the next option.

The second method will help make sure that the integrity has been damaged and check the condition of all the pillows . It will require a pit or overpass, a jack, a support or prop, a pry bar or a strong lever. Then follow the algorithm.

  1. Raise the front of the car with a jack (if you have a rear engine, then the rear).
  2. Secure the raised vehicle with jack stands or a support/block.
  3. Use the released jack to support the engine and remove its weight from the mounts.
  4. Inspect the engine mounts for damage.

Diagnostic methods

So, the owner believes that the engine mount has failed. The symptoms of the malfunction were confirmed.


Next, you need to check the condition of the supports. In order to ensure the integrity of these parts, you will need a jack and any supports - wood stumps, pallets, tires. Anything will do. It is also advisable to prepare a crowbar or a thick stick. Let's look at how to determine if an engine mount is faulty. To do this, it is recommended to place the car on the most flat surface possible. Then the car needs to be lifted using a jack, then a prepared support should be installed under the engine. It could be a log or something else. It's better to remove the jack.

Features of the procedure for replacing motor mounts

It is necessary to ensure easy access to the cushions, so in addition to wrenches, you will also need a good jack. Let's look at the list of measures to replace a defective cushion using the example of a rubber-metal product:

  • Loosen the nut securing the airbag to the body.
  • Jack up the engine and remove the bolt.
  • Unscrew and remove the faulty support.
  • We install a new one and tighten it.
  • Jack up the engine and insert the mounting bolt.
  • Tighten the bolt and lower the motor.

Note! If the vibration, on the contrary, increased after installing new cushions when the car was warmed up and running, then the supports need to be centered. To do this, you need to loosen all the bolts securing the pillows and tighten them evenly until the vibration disappears.

Self-replacement

If a visual inspection reveals problems in the pillow, it should be replaced as quickly as possible. Start by purchasing a new part. It should be noted that it is better not to buy this spare part for disassembly, even if it is in good condition. In this case, saving money may cause more harm than good. Ideally, it would be to buy an original part.

  • Remove the terminals from the battery. Raise the car to a height that will allow access to the engine from below. In this case, you can use a jack and wooden blocks as support.
  • Raise the engine with a jack to release the load on the required part.
  • Remove the bolts that secure the cushion to the engine and body.
  • Place the new part in place, guiding it properly into place. Tighten the mounting bolts well. It's best to tighten them while the engine is running to avoid excessive vibration in the future.
  • Once you have finished installing the cushion, put all the dismantled parts back in place.

In each individual case, it may be that there is no convenient access to replace the part. In this case, try to remove those components that prevent you from making a replacement.

Sometimes this operation may require another person to help guide the motor while you push the part into place. If we are talking about the top cushion, then, as a rule, it will not be difficult to inspect it and, if necessary, replace it. It will be possible to do without a hole.

Periodically check the condition of the engine mounts on your car. As you can see, this is not at all difficult, but it can help avoid many problems in the future and provide you with a comfortable ride in any conditions. Remember that a car feels when it is being looked at and then thanks its owner for a long and good service.

"Mazda Demio"

Signs of a malfunction of the left engine mount of the Mazda Demio are knocking and vibrations. The supports bear a heavy load. It is worth carefully monitoring the condition of the airbags; a faulty part can damage the engine. This car has three airbags: left, right and bottom. The second is located near the engine oil filler neck. The left support is located under the battery. The lower one is located directly opposite the junction of the engine and automatic transmission. The methods for diagnosing a malfunction in this case are the same as for any other cars - this is a visual inspection and checking for play.

What we see after replacing engine mounts

Having installed new original power plant mounts, we naturally feel a significantly lower level of vibration. And not only! After the repair, the gears engage more clearly, the comfort of movement on a dirt road increases noticeably, and the engine becomes 1-3 cm higher. But the vibrations of the manual gearbox lever do not always go away.

Sources

  • https://KrutiMotor.ru/proverka-podushek-dvigatelya/
  • https://www.kolesa.ru/article/gidroopora-dvigatelya-kak-ustroena-kak-ee-diagnostirovat-i-mozhno-li-remontirovat
  • https://tuning-mg.ru/ustrojstvo/iznos-podushek-dvigatelya.html
  • https://avtika.ru/kak-proverit-podushki-pod-dvigatel/
  • https://bibika.pro/kak-proverit-podushki-dvigatelya-vse-ob-avto/
  • https://autobann.su/diagnostika-podushek-dvigatelya.html

Preparation for repair work

The presence of rubber elements in the structure of the racks implies a “positive” temperature at which their repair can be carried out. Otherwise, the rubber hardens, making it impossible to properly adjust the position of the power unit. The sequence of preparatory actions looks like this:

  • entry to the inspection pit;
  • battery disconnection;
  • inspection of the front left pillar (it is the one that most often fails);
  • inspect all the pillows one by one.

If the fastening is broken, the rack itself can be repaired. This is economically justified, since replacing engine mounts, which are quite expensive, will cost much more.

What is needed for repairs

First, you need to determine which support on the VAZ 2110 engine should be changed (if you do not want to change all the damper mounts at once). To do this, you need to do an independent inspection of these parts. Sometimes, the power plant seems to be tilted horizontally on one side or tilted along the central axis of the car. This is the first sign to replace the damper mounts.

Locksmith kitRolling jack
A couple of short boardsAngle grinder (grinder)

Two cushions (side) secure the engine to the left and right side members in the engine compartment. And one (rear) fixes the motor to the bottom. Therefore, it is necessary to lift the machine on a lift or install it on a viewing hole. The wear is immediately visible. The rubber has tears and core failure. Depending on the result of visual diagnostics, you should purchase the required number of parts for installation.

You will need a tool. In most cases, a standard locksmith set consisting of open-end and box-end wrenches with heads will be sufficient. In addition, to replace engine mounts on a VAZ 2110 you will need a rolling jack and a pair of short boards. It is advisable to have electricity and a cutting machine with a disc, since you may have to cut off the mounting bolts.

Helpful information! A couple of hours before repairs, it is strongly recommended to apply universal lubricant “Liquid Key” to the threaded connections. Damper supports are changed very rarely, therefore, unscrewing them without prior preparation is quite difficult.

This is interesting: Rating of the best models of lamps for fog lights

DIY repair tool

To install the engine mount, you will need:

  • a set of keys and sockets (the exact number depends on the size of the bolts used on the old and new cushions, as well as the number of parts that will have to be removed to gain access to the supports. All this information is in the operation and repair manual for your car model);
  • a jack that will be used to support the engine while the replacement takes place;

Additional tools may require a brush to clean dirt from bolts, as well as WD-40 or its equivalent to remove stuck nuts.

Why is it needed?

The engine of any car is attached to the body through special elastic cushions. They are needed to smooth out vibrations, taking them upon themselves. Thanks to them, vibration is practically not transmitted to the body and is not noticeable inside the cabin. The car's engine simultaneously receives protection from adverse consequences, such as impacts when the wheels fall into a hole or pothole in the roadway.

A hydraulic cushion is a device that can provide the most suitable conditions for stable engine operation. Because it itself adapts to the intensity of vibration.

At low vibrations the cushion is soft, but as it increases it becomes harder to better dampen the vibrations of the machine.

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 4 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]