Why does the car jerk when starting off?
If the car starts to jerk while starting from a stop, the reason is usually due to a malfunction of the clutch or CV joints. In such cases, it is imperative to carry out diagnostics in order to immediately determine the breakdown and begin to eliminate it.
The main thing is not to panic, you need to make sure that before you start driving, the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, there are no problems with the ignition and the fuel supply system. If everything is normal here, then we need to further look for the cause.
Driving style
Inexperienced drivers often abruptly release the clutch pedal, causing the car to start jerking away. There are no malfunctions, you just need to change your driving style, learn to smoothly release the clutch and add gas at the same time.
It is necessary to determine the moment of clutch actuation on the car. To do this, start off without adding gas and smoothly release the clutch. Having determined in what position the clutch begins to engage, you can move away smoothly. On a car with an automatic transmission there is no clutch pedal. In order for such a car to move without jerking, the gas pedal must be pressed smoothly.
Problem with CV joints
In front-wheel drive cars, the force from the gearbox is transmitted to the wheels using internal and external CV joints. If these parts partially fail, the car will jerk when moving away.
Signs of CV joint failure:
Replacing CV joints can be done at a service station or independently. These are relatively inexpensive parts that require little time to replace. Having an inspection hole and a set of keys, you can replace the CV joints with your own hands.
Procedure for replacing the CV joint:
Clutch faults
Very often, problems associated with car jerking at the start occur when the clutch breaks down.
Main clutch malfunctions:
Replacement of the clutch driven disc is carried out in the inspection pit. You can raise the front of the car using jacks or a winch.
Work order:
Video: the car jerks when starting due to clutch problems
Gearbox failure
When the gearbox is faulty, in addition to jerking at the beginning of movement, difficulties may arise with shifting gears, and extraneous noise may appear. It will be possible to diagnose and repair the gearbox only at a service station. It will be easier with a manual transmission, since it has a simpler structure and its repair is usually inexpensive. To restore the automatic transmission you will have to spend more money.
Steering faults
The steering rack is responsible for transmitting force from the steering wheel to the front wheels. If there are certain malfunctions, jerking may occur during start-up; in addition, vibrations can be felt in the steering wheel. If the tips are worn out, they begin to loosen. This leads to vibration of the front wheels, so jerking occurs at the start, as well as when accelerating and braking. Worn steering elements are not restored, but replaced with new ones. It is difficult to do this on your own, so it is better to contact a service station.
Problems with engine operation or mounting
Jerking of the car at the beginning of movement may be associated with irregularities in the operation or mounting of the engine. There are many options here. One of them is floating speed, which can be determined by the tachometer readings; they will either increase or fall. If there is no tachometer, then by the sound of the engine you will hear how the revolutions change. As a result of unstable speed during start-up, the car may jerk. Some injectors may become clogged, causing fuel to flow unevenly into them and the engine to operate incorrectly.
Incorrect mixing of air and fuel leads not only to jerking at the start, but also while driving. Often the reason is associated with damage to the rubber flange of the air duct, which is popularly called the “turtle”. Another reason may be failure of the engine mounting mounts. If this happens, the engine lock is broken. When starting to move, it will vibrate, as a result of which shocks are transmitted to the body and the car twitches.
Video: why the car jerks at the start
If a beginner experiences jerks when starting a car, then it is usually enough to change the driving style and learn to smoothly release the clutch. In other cases, when such a problem occurs, the cause must be immediately determined. This will eliminate the problem and prevent more serious damage. Steering faults can lead to accidents and should only be repaired by a professional.
Source
Suspension upgrade
The standard suspension of the "seven" is considered soft and imperfect. That's why many people decide to do tuning and modifications. This helps significantly improve handling and overall comfort, as well as extending the life of springs, balls, bushings and other components.
Reinforced springs
Springs are the main element that ensures a smooth ride, directional stability and good handling. When they are weakened or lowered, the suspension cannot compensate for the load, so failure of its elements and other problems occur.
Owners of the “Seven” who often drive on bad roads or drive with a loaded trunk should definitely think about upgrading the standard springs. In addition, there are two main signs by which you can judge that the elements need to be replaced.
- After a visual inspection, the springs were found damaged.
- The vehicle's ground clearance has decreased significantly because the springs have dropped over time or due to excessive load.
Spacers are the first thing that comes to mind for VAZ 2107 owners. But this is not an entirely correct conclusion. Yes, they will restore the stiffness of the springs, but will negatively affect the service life of the elements. Soon cracks will appear on the springs reinforced in this way.
Therefore, the only correct solution would be to replace conventional springs with reinforced or modified ones from the VAZ 2104. In this case, the shock absorbers must be replaced with more powerful ones, otherwise the reinforced springs will easily damage the standard system.
Before you begin the replacement procedure, you need to equip yourself with the following tools.
- Lift up.
- A set of various keys, including a wheel wrench.
- Scrap.
- Bruscom.
- Wire hook.
Now more about the replacement.
- Place the car on a jack and remove the wheels.
- Disassemble conventional struts or shock absorbers.
- Loosen the shoulder clamps.
- Place a block under the car and lift the lower arm with a jack.
- Unscrew the stabilizer bar mount.
Then you need to release both springs from the seals and check the condition of the latter. If they are in good condition, install them onto the new spring using electrical tape. Install reinforced springs in place of the standard ones.
Air suspension
The “Seven” has great potential in terms of modernizing the front suspension. And many car owners decide to install an air suspension with an electric compressor, hoses and a control unit.
This is a real electronic assistant that allows you to change the ground clearance depending on driving conditions. Thanks to this innovation, the car's stability at high speeds increases, long trips become comfortable, the car overcomes bumps more smoothly, in a word, it looks like a foreign car.
The system modernization goes like this.
- VAZ 2107 is installed on a pit.
- The battery is de-energized.
- The wheels are removed from the car.
- The front suspension was completely disassembled and air suspension elements were installed in its place.
- The control unit, compressor and receiver are located under the hood. Then the elements are connected to each other by pipes and hoses.
Video: air suspension on a VAZ, is it worth it or not?
Electromagnetic suspension
Another upgrade option involves the use of an electromagnetic suspension. This is a set of mechanisms and components that act as a link between the road and the body. By using this suspension setup, a smooth ride, high stability, safety and comfort are guaranteed. The car will not “lower” even during long stops, and thanks to the built-in springs, the suspension will remain operational even in the absence of commands from the on-board network.
Today the most famous manufacturers of electromagnetic suspensions are Delphi, SKF, Bose.
The front suspension of the VAZ 2107 requires timely maintenance and inspection of the main components. Remember that road safety depends on this.
Hospitality! Upper arms: a ball joint is installed on them, in addition, thanks to them, it also holds the spring (Located inside, between the lower arm and the body, but the upper arm also plays an important role, if you remove this, the springs will fly out of their place after the first impact ), all classic levers are used in the front suspension, if we are talking about PP- “Front-wheel drive”, then they have a suspension design, then the rear one, the one that has been radically changed in the front, there are already telescopic struts, thanks to which the car is better It stays on the road and the spring and shock absorber eliminate unevenness as much as possible, because they are very, very close to each other (the shock absorber is located inside the spring).
Note! To replace the upper control arm you need to remove the wheel, ball joint, and to remove the ball you will need a puller and a lot of time, so immediately be patient, pick a day and get to work you will need to do. : Also, horn keys, caps, connecting rods with heads would be nice, and you will also need a balloon and a jack to hang the front of the car!
Summary:
Where is the upper arm? Below is a photo in which the arrow indicates the upper lever. Today we are disassembling this lever, unlike the lower one, it is not difficult to replace it, because everything is done to a minimum, that is, we unscrew the three small nuts that attach the ball joint and then unscrew the large nut, the bolts of the upper arm and after that it will be necessary to remove it, and if the lower one changes, then it will be a hemorrhoid, firstly, it is inconvenient to crawl the nuts, secondly, the spring must be tightened with ties and thirdly, the upper ball will need to be unscrewed before anything becomes possible, because that the upper lever will interfere and by unscrewing the ball and pressing on it with a special puller, the upper lever can be easily tilted back, that's how many more actions need to be done, so drive carefully, most often it is not possible to turn the lower lever (usually when you get into a deep hole , if you drove the car for more than a year, q so most likely they got into such a situation and since the lever is at the bottom and the car falls into the hole, all the weight falls on it, in other words, the car falls on the lever, which means it is deformed and must be replaced).
When should you change your shoulder? It should be replaced only in case of deformation, if it was accompanied by a crack and similar defects, there are those who change the levers when the bushings break, but some of these bushings themselves are changed in the old levers and put everything in place, without special tools these bushings cannot be replaced, they press hard, and new ones go even worse, therefore, in order not to bother, motorists immediately buy a new lever assembly, the price of which is 200-400 rubles, you can find it for 100 rubles for disassembly in normal conditions.
Checking VAZ-2107
Now let's take a closer look at how to identify the cause of such a malfunction on different car models.
The first will be the carburetor VAZ-2107; there are plenty of cases when the car suddenly starts to jerk while driving.
If actions with the fuel system did not help, we proceed to checking the ignition system.
We unscrew the spark plugs, check their functionality, and replace them if necessary; We check the system wiring for breakdown. This can be done this way - in the dark or in a closed garage (the main thing is that it is dark), open the hood and start the engine. If there are voltage losses on the wiring, they will be immediately noticeable by the sparks that form. Next, we replace the wiring that “breaks through” and check the wire connections; Next, we check the distributor, there should be no signs of critical wear, it should be dry under the cover. Be sure to inspect the centrifugal regulator, and also check the vacuum regulator. You should check whether there is a vacuum in the pipe leading to it. Then the Hall sensor, coil and switch will be checked for functionality. You can do this yourself if you have the necessary equipment at hand, but you need to know how to check them
But you can contact an auto electrician. It is also important not to forget to check that the ignition is installed correctly.
This is in general and all the features of identifying the cause of uneven running on the VAZ-2107.
Clutch adjustment on a VAZ-2107 - detailed instructions for a beginner
The main purpose of the clutch mechanism is to combine the crankshaft with the gearbox and transmit torque from the engine to the wheels of the car. This device is used on the car when switching to a lower or higher gear, as well as when turning on neutral. In order for gear shifting to be carried out easily and smoothly, you will need to properly adjust the VAZ 2107 clutch, which every owner of the 7 should be able to do.
Typical faults
Let's look at the most classic injuries.
A clogged injector nozzle is unable to inject the required amount of gasoline or diesel fuel. As a result, a significant amount of fuel burns out in the manifold, and this leads not only to an increase in consumption, but also to other malfunctions - loss of power characteristics, increased load on the electronics, failure of the ignition module, spark plugs, armor wiring, etc.
Normal and clogged injector nozzle
When little fuel enters the system, this may indicate a failure of the fuel pump. The latter, in many cases, is simply installed crookedly in the process of amateurishly carried out repair work. In many cases, the fuel pump simply becomes clogged and needs to be cleaned.
The most compelling reason for unstable operation of the idle mode is a malfunction of the IAC sensor. In some cases, the throttle surface may become clogged.
Engine starting problems are usually caused by a lack of spark. To quickly check this, it is recommended to use a spark gap. Experts do not recommend checking the spark for a break, as this may negatively affect the operation of the ignition module and controller.
Lada 2107 Forever › Logbook › Cable clutch drive for classics
So for everyone to think about!
Cable clutch drive for classics
1. Introduction
Hello to all lovers of classic Lada cars! To all those who have ever thought or dreamed of having a cable clutch on a classic. There are many reasons for this. Well, firstly, hydraulics are more complex in design than cable hydraulics. Many people constantly have problems with brake fluid leaks. The left leg is constantly tense - the clutch pedal moves hard. Pumping is not a very pleasant thing. Another thing is the cable one: simplicity of design, soft travel of the clutch pedal, sensitivity of the pedal. With a cable, the car's handling improves, i.e. increases the safety of you and your passengers. They didn’t pay attention: after driving a classic and immediately changing to, for example, a nine, you immediately notice how easy it is to start and drive, it would seem that “a child can handle it”! There are several reasons for this: one of them is the clutch; correct location of the gear shift lever and brake sensitivity (will not be discussed in this article), etc. Types of clutch release applicable for our modification (maybe someone wants to do it differently):
So, let's begin. We will need: 1. VAZ 2110 clutch pedal assembly (bought at www.avtozapchasty.ru/shop/i.php?id=855 cash on delivery, with delivery it cost 1050 rubles.) You can search for it yourself.
2.Pedal installation
We remove the entire hydraulic mechanism Fig. 6, namely the positions marked with numbers.
Next, completely remove the windshield wiper with rods. We take our VAZ 2110 pedal bracket and remove the template from it. For convenience, I made 2 templates: one from cardboard; and the other from a plastic document folder, because... it is more rigid Fig. 7:
Here is a visual drawing of the template:
I think there will be no problems in making the template
The template is applied to the body, and the area to be cut is marked with a marker. It is drilled out and cut with a round file. Pay attention to pos. a, Fig. 9 - the right edge of the cut rectangle must strictly coincide in a straight line with the center of the drainage hole (VERY IMPORTANT). In the process of drilling a rectangular hole in the body, we will come across the so-called gusset for strengthening the steering wheel fastening (pos. b). It’s okay - we use ordinary pliers to break out part of the scarf from the interior side (shown with a red dash stripe)
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