Remaking the carburetor for the VAZ 2107 injector Remaking the carburetor for the VAZ 2107 injector

Injector advantages

more accurate fuel dosing;
fuel burns better, engine efficiency is higher;
gasoline costs are reduced;
environmental pollution is reduced;
The VAZ 2107 with an injector responds to the gas pedal much better;
you can quickly find faults in the power system even by yourself by connecting your laptop to a “smart” injector (if the program is installed);
For novice drivers, electronic injection is good because it does not allow the engine to stall, it decides what speed to gain, makes it easier to start without revving up, etc.;
maintains stable idle speed, during a cold start, no “choke” is needed;
the engine runs more quietly, as a hydraulic chain tensioner is installed;
no valve adjustment is required, since hydraulic compensators are installed and the absence of gaps is maintained automatically;
as a result, the injector is 15-18 horsepower more powerful;

Improved motion sensor circuit with bug corrected

I am posting a revision of the diagram outlined at the beginning of the article. It (revision) was sent by Alexey Filippov from Lvov:

modified motion sensor circuit with bug corrected

The essence of the modification is this.

Example of use: Spotlight on the porch of a house. How it works - the light in the hallway is on - the light from the street is on constantly, the light in the hallway is OFF - the spotlight on the street is turned on by the motion sensor (normal mode). There is no need for a separate switch (and wiring) and at the same time the light in the hallway does not turn on when the sensor on the street is triggered, that is, the circuits are decoupled.

I had this modification done at work, assembled in two copies, one at the service center, the other at the warehouse.

When entering the service, it gets dark early in winter, the light in the room is on and the entrance is illuminated from the street for clients until working hours; during the rest of the dark time, the spotlight with the sensor works as it should - in normal mode.

Thanks Alexey!

Injector disadvantages

the injector is capricious, requires regular maintenance and cleaning (otherwise the quantity and quality of injection decreases), and there is a loss of power, the engine runs unstable, and exhaust toxicity increases;
since a new type of engine was not developed for the injector of the classics and the VAZ 2107, in particular, but “they took what they had,” then access to many parts of the traction unit is difficult, and it can be difficult to repair anything with your own hands;
installation of the catalyst is low, below the rear axle gearbox, at a height of 10-11 cm, immediately forget about driving through a mown field to pick mushrooms;
refuel wherever you want, but get your VAZ 2107 accustomed to excellent gasoline. Otherwise, you'll stall.
If you stall on the injector, you will be “like on a foreign car”, you will stall for a long time. The tow truck and car service station are shining.
When starting the engine, leave the key in the ignition position for a few seconds. This will allow the fuel pump to build up fuel pressure, otherwise it will fail.
How much does it cost to tune a carburetor VAZ 2107 with conversion to injection injection?
If you turn to service experts, you will spend about 30 thousand rubles on tuning. at prices in the summer of 2014, when the ruble was more or less stable for parts and labor, for everything on a turnkey basis. Maybe you'll even get a guarantee.
If you are confident in your knowledge and experience, then, by going to auto repair shops, you can buy everything used, but working, for 12-15 thousand rubles, and disappear in the garage for a long time, doing tuning not only with your own means, but also “ with your own hands,” for this you need to be “handy” and understand hardware, but even more “big-headed” and understand electrics.
The cost of a new six engine with an injector is 55,000 rubles. Will fit on VAZ 2107. Option with warranty. If you choose tuning at a car service center, you will receive a guarantee for both the kit and installation.

How to install a 16-valve engine on a VAZ 2107

To begin with, you should be well prepared for the procedure:

enlist the help of two people in advance or connect a hoist to move a heavy motor into the engine compartment;
dismantle the old engine and all attachments;
prepare a complete set of wrenches and screwdrivers;
prepare a hammer and pliers;
find a good turner to bore the flywheel (on a new engine you will need to remove the flywheel and grind its crown from the inside - this is the only way to ensure free entry of the starter element into the clutch with the flywheel);
replace the input shaft bearing on the gearbox - instead, drive a bearing from a VAZ 2101 onto the shaft;
use pliers and a hammer to bend the pallet on the right under the beam by 2 centimeters - this is necessary for the engine to fall into place;
buy engine mounts from Lada Niva.

Work process

If you are installing an engine from a VAZ 2112 or Lada Priora, then you will not need to change the clutch basket, since the new engine will feel quite comfortable with the old clutch.

There should be nothing unnecessary in the engine compartment of the car.

After completing all the preparatory work, the actual installation of the 16-valve engine on the “seven” follows:

Install Niva engine mounts in the engine compartment.
Place 2 thick washers on the cushions to level the motor. It is quite possible that on the “seven” it will be necessary to increase the number of washers, so you need to initially measure the height of the new motor and all attachments.
Mount the original gearbox with three bolts. The top left bolt will not align with the box hole due to the installation of washers. However, the gearbox will be perfectly fixed on three mounts.
Install the starter into place.
Mount the output manifold with two lambda probes in the same way as installing the “original” manifold from a VAZ 2107.
Pull the clutch cable through and secure it to the throttle valve actuator.
Install the “original” pump, generator and other attachments - no modifications are required.
Secure the new motor in place.
Connect all highways.
Make sure that all marks and notches match, that all pipes and hoses are securely sealed.

Necessary improvements

However, the installation of a 16-valve engine does not end there. A number of works will be required to improve the entire system. And the best place to start is with electrics.

Electrical refurbishment

For high-quality operation of the new power unit, you will have to replace the gasoline pump. You can take this mechanism from both the Priora and the Twelfth, or you can save money and buy a pump from the injection model of the Seven. The fuel pump is connected according to the usual algorithm and does not require any modifications.

On the VAZ 2107, the motor is connected with only three wires. The new engine requires a qualitatively different connection. First of all, you will need to complete the following steps:

Install the engine control unit (for example, from the VAZ 2112 model).
Connect all the sensors included in the kit to it - the wires should be pulled along the same places where they are stretched on the VAZ 2107 (in some cases, the standard wiring will need to be extended).
To connect the “check”, install an LED on the dashboard and connect the wire from the control unit to it.
Carry out programming of the ECU (it is advisable to do this at a car repair shop if you have no experience in setting up electronic equipment).

Brake system

The new motor has higher power characteristics, which means that the car will accelerate faster and brake slower. In this regard, it is recommended to modify the braking system on the VAZ 2107. To do this, it is enough to replace the main cylinder with a more powerful one, and also, if necessary, replace all the cylinders if they are badly worn.

Cooling system

As a rule, the available potential of the standard cooling system on the “seven” is enough to promptly cool the new powerful engine. However, if the engine lacks cooling, a small modification will be required: fill the expansion tank not with antifreeze, but with a higher quality antifreeze.

Thus, installing a 16-valve engine on a VAZ 2107 is a complex procedure, as it requires not only significant physical effort, but also thoughtful action. The main difficulty of this operation is connecting the wiring and modifying the system.

Required spare parts

If you still decide to tune the engine yourself, then here is an approximate list of parts that you need to purchase on your own:

cylinder head with 21214;
her gas pedal;
MZ bracket;
also a pulley with distributed injection;
firmware for ECU January 5.1.1.;
Volga fuel pump (Bosch) with bracket;
assembled throttle with gasket, idle speed reducer;
high-voltage ignition wires for an eight-valve engine;
throttle cable (possible with classics);
fuel filter for injection engine;
highway;
knock and speed sensors;
receiver with ramp from 21214;
engine cover with crankshaft position sensor;
injection wiring harnesses;
fuel pump and breaker plugs;
antifreeze temperature sensor;
air flow sensor;
Nivovsky ignition module;
tee with cylinder head;

..... and also all the standard gaskets and seals, which we will replace during installation.

Sequence of work

We drain the antifreeze below the height of the cylinder head.
We remove the carburetor.
Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds.
We remove the breaker - distributor with coil.
We remove the pulley from the crankshaft, replace the front engine cover with a new one, with space for the crankshaft sensor.
We install a new pulley, with teeth for the sensor, not forgetting the marks.
We install a new block head 2124. You can use a new prefabricated one, or you can use an empty one, but then you’ll have to rearrange everything with yours, or you can leave your classic one, but bore it for the new profile of the intake windows and for additional studs with your own hands;
We install the coolant sensor on the tee of the VAZ 2107 block head, drilling a hole and cutting a thread for the sensor. Then we install it.
After installation, we attach the intake pipes and exhaust manifold to the block head, install a ramp with injectors on the intake, and screw it on. Then you need to put on the receiver, with the throttle assembly and screw it on.
We attach a plug to the seats of the fuel pump and breaker.
We place the knock sensor closer to the cylinders, preferably on the breaker plug screw.
Install the ignition module; To do this, use a grinder to level the area with your own hands ( be careful, sparks and gasoline vapors can cause a fire and explosion! ) next to the brake fluid reservoir and attach the “Nivov device.” It's away from the heat, which is better for electronics.
We install a fine filter between the supply tube and the main line; it is easier to install it from the Volga on clamps;
We install the return line in the same way, in the form of a second line along the bottom of the car to the tank;
There, under the bottom, near the fastening of the speedometer and gearbox cables, we install a speed sensor;
We put the return line into the gas tank, the main thing is to make it hermetically sealed, by drilling a hole in the intake cover and inserting the tube;
We install a fuel pump. It is better to place it further away, as it makes noise. For example, on the wheel arch in the trunk:
We connect the fuel pump hoses according to the diagram: intake - pump - supply line - return - pipe to the gas tank. The clamps need to be strong, otherwise there will be a stink of gasoline from the trunk into the cabin.
Place the gas pedal, attach the gas cable to it, attach the cable to the throttle and to the receiver bracket. The cable does not need to be pulled too tight. We check the tension with our hands.
Electrical: all new wiring, on-board computer, all fuel injection system sensors need to be installed. To discourage beginners, let’s just say that you need to not only cut out the lengths of all the circuits to the sensors, but also professionally solder them, making do with a minimum of connections to prevent “terminal souring.”
In this case, you will have to conduct separate electrical circuits by hand: black - white, black - red, red, gray, white with a stripe, blue with a stripe, brown with a stripe of wire. They need to be carried out on the battery, fuel pump, ignition, choke light, tachometer, fan, fan relay and all sensors.

Advice: before you start purchasing all the parts and spending major financial resources, figure out which wires are connected where if you decide to install the injector yourself.

Finally, the ignition system is installed - coil, high voltage wires.

Now the pleasant sound of an injection engine can please the owner. You have done a great job!

What do you need to buy for installation?

The minimum required (seals, gaskets, spark plugs, etc.).
Crankshaft bearing from 2101. This bearing will play the role of supporting the gearbox input shaft. The crankshaft of the 16 valve engine must be machined for the bearing. Don't forget to fill the bearing with new grease. Often they forget to fill the bearings with grease.
The flywheel can be purchased ready-made. You can take a lightweight flywheel from 2112 with a crown 2101, since we still have the starter from the previous engine.
The clutch will consist of a 2112 kit and an adapter release bearing.
Ideally, the pallet is purchased ready for installation on a classic. Otherwise, a standard pallet will need to be tamped down in some places.
Ready set of cooling system pipes 2101 16v. The system is made for a 2101 thermostat and an aluminum radiator.
Complete exhaust system kit for 16v.
Remote fuel pump, or a complete set of EBN in a classic tank.
Flat valve cover with convenient location of the breather pipe.
Engine mounts from VAZ 2121 or supports on silent blocks.
Diffuser with fans from Chevrolet Niva.

Motor installation

To install a new unit, you will need to assemble a new motor and install it on the brackets, attaching the nuts to the pads. Next, the motor is mated to the gearbox.

Please note that the gearbox is secured with three bolts. Next, the cooling system is assembled and the braid is spread out from the control unit

There are no difficulties during installation, since you just need to connect the connectors to all sensors, as well as connect the fuel pump. If desired, a lambda probe can be connected or a snag can be installed. To save fuel, I recommend leaving the oxygen sensor.

Installing an injector on a carburetor classic

So, today we will tell you how to convert a classic carburetor engine into an injection one . We described this procedure using the example of converting a carbator VAZ-2107 into an injection one ; in principle, the instructions are suitable for any similar classic engines. In general, I decided to evolve and switch from mechanical mixture formation to electronic, simply from a carburetor to an injector . I'm tired of constantly pulling the choke handle when warming up, looking at the smoked spark plugs and the drooping tachometer needle when under load, especially in winter. No, it’s clear that building a turbo engine is much cooler than simply switching from a carburetor to an injector. But just think about how much it will cost you to repair a turbine if it fails https://turbos.com.ua/about - I think it won’t seem a little