How to properly maintain and repair a generator on a VAZ 2112 on your own?

The best generator for VAZ 2110-12

FAQ on generators (automotive)

What is the service life of a car generator? The service life of a generator varies greatly and depends on the quality of its performance. For example, a standard generator can last 140 thousand km, which is almost 10 years of operation.

Which generator is better to choose? First, decide on the manufacturer. It is much easier to find spare parts for Russian generators, while for unpopular generators it is almost impossible to find a replacement for a broken part. Decide on the current strength. From the factory, the tens generator has a current strength of 80A, this is quite enough even if there are additional current consumers. If the generator is not enough, then first try to inspect it and clean the contacts. Powerful 120A generators are installed, as a rule, when the car has “strong” acoustics, they do not harm the battery. Who in the future wants to install a 3-level voltage regulator (VR) , it is recommended to first determine on the manufacturer’s website which generators it is structurally compatible with. They say that generators with the numbers -03- at the end of the model number have a new model pH, which is better than the old one. Also, pay attention to the presence of a warranty, then you can easily exchange the generator for a new one if it is defective. By the way, the defect rate of generators is almost 25-50%!

How to replace the generator on a VAZ of the tenth family? Replacing the generator is shown here.

Is it possible to repair a generator with your own hands? Self-repair of generators is possible (for example, replacing the slip rings of the generator) Approximate cost of spare parts:

1. Winding 600 rub.
2. Anchor 850 rubles.
3. Generator diode bridge 250 rub.
4. Generator brushes 100 rub.
5. Generator bearing 150rub/set.

At these prices, repairing generator malfunctions is much more profitable than buying a new generator.

What is the price of a generator for a ten? The cost is from 2500 rubles to 5000 rubles. By the way, in order to save money, a generator from Volga (406 engine) is installed on the VAZ 2110, the price of which is 2200 rubles. No alterations or modifications are required.

Where can I buy a generator for a VAZ? It is possible to order it in online stores (section “Spare parts”)

So, let’s vote and leave reviews about the VAZ generators of the tenth family:

1. What generator did you buy?
2. Impressions and comments on the operation of the generator?
3. How long did the last generator last?

ps Off-topic comments will be deleted.

Which generator is better to choose for the VAZ 2110-12?

If a dozen is standard with small additional consumers, then what should the generator current be?

How long did your standard VAZ 2110-12 generator last?

Keywords:

Recommendations and tips for repairing a generator

1.Before assembling the mechanism, check the condition of the brushes. These should be replaced immediately so as not to remove or disassemble the structure again. You will also need to replace the body bolts, if their edges are “licked”, be sure to check the condition of the rotor

2. To make disassembling the case easier, moisten the fasteners, nuts and other threaded connections with WD-40 penetrating lubricant. 3. If you cannot remove the pulley with a hexagon, try fixing the rotor with a screwdriver inserted into the holes of the case. 4. When removing the product from the front cover, make sure that it has not fallen apart, otherwise it will become more difficult to remove. 5. Use an impact screwdriver when disassembling the housing so that the nut and bolt heads are not deformed. 6. When repairing the generator or replacing elements in it, be careful with the stator winding and the housing, as it is made made of brittle duralumin aluminum. 7. Carefully watch the video on how to replace a bearing in a generator.

• When replacement is required
• What to use
• Replacement

Some novice motorists are sure that the source of energy in a car is exclusively the battery. But this is not so. The battery's job is to supply the necessary current to start the engine and provide power to the starter so that it turns the crankshaft.

The engine starts, and at this moment the electrical equipment begins to be powered by the generator. The quality of operation of electrically dependent equipment and timely recharging of the battery depend on the generator. If the generator breaks down, the entire load goes to the battery. Once it runs out of power, the entire car will be left without power.

In almost 90% of cases, generator failure is associated with its bearings. That’s why we’ll talk about them in more detail today.

Element appearance

The best generator for VAZ 2110

We remove our original generator, unscrew our pulley with a hammer or in a vice. Take the r.

Generator VAZ-2110 14V, 80A DINAMO.

UAZ special offers online.

Selling a VAZ 2110 generator.

For VAZ 2110-12 panel assembled. panel-4t ceiling-500r seat front-3t, rear.

What is the best generator for the VAZ 2110?

The main function of a car generator

Used auto parts and VAZ REPAIR Achinsk VKontakte.

I am selling a VAZ-2110 generator in excellent condition, price: 1700 rubles.

Generator "BULSTART" 110A VAZ 21082-15, 2110-12.

electrical circuits. Electrical diagram for connecting heated mirrors KAMAZ.

Installing a VAZ 2110 generator on a classic.

I will sell for 2110 a starter ELDIX ELD-ST-2110 and a generator (115 amps) ELDIX ELD.

Announcement of sale of Generator VAZ 2109 in the Republic of Khakassia on Avito.

Modification of the VAZ 2110 generator.

Advertisement for the sale of a used VAZ 2110 generator in the Volgograd region.

auto parts generators vaz.

The generator armature (rotor) is pressed into the bearing, and the bearing is pressed into the wheel.

How to check the charging of the generator.

Modification of the VAZ 2110 voltage regulator.

Location of the generator in the car.

Interchangeability of autogenerators

Interchangeability of generators for Lada cars is achieved if the following requirements are met:

Most Russian-made automobile generators have a 2-leg mount. These fasteners are found on both covers. For equipment of foreign brands, installation is carried out using 1 paw, the fasteners are located on the front cover.

In order to correctly install and securely fasten a foreign generator in a car from AvtoVAZ, it is necessary to replace the bracket.

How to remove a generator on a VAZ-2110 with 8 or 16 valves?

The generator is responsible for supplying electricity to the vehicle's engine. On the VAZ-2110 this unit is located in front of the engine, which makes it easier to access. Removing the unit and disassembling it is not difficult even for an inexperienced car enthusiast. Let's look at the main breakdowns that motorists encounter.

Generator operating principle

This unit consists of several parts:

Thanks to the generator, the torque from the power plant is converted into electrical energy. During rotation, the rotor creates a magnetic flux, which is regulated by a relay, and the pulley carries out a belt drive. The rotor moves with the help of bearings, and when they work well, the shaft moves easily.

Another purpose of the relay regulator is to limit the output voltage in the range from 13.6 to 14.7 V. The voltage is transmitted through the commutator rings to the brushes, and the rectifier bridge is responsible for ensuring that energy is transferred in one direction.

Service Features

The need to repair the generator unit on a VAZ 2112 16 valves does not arise often, but in order for the unit not to have to be repaired, it must be properly maintained. In general, this unit has a fairly high margin of reliability.

What maintenance features must be observed to prevent repairs:

1. It must be remembered that the outer surfaces of the unit must always be clean.
2. When carrying out maintenance, you also need to check the quality of fastening of the unit - it must be securely fixed at the installation site.
3. It would be a good idea to check the functionality of the voltage regulator; a multimeter is used for this.
4. The same applies to belt diagnostics. As stated above, first of all you need to check its tension - the belt should not be too tight, but it should also not be loosened. In addition, diagnostics of the condition of the strap should be carried out every 10 thousand km - there should be no signs of damage, cracks, and the belt should not peel off.
5. Another point in maintenance is checking the condition of the bearings. For diagnostics, you need to remove the strap, and the rotor of the unit must be rotated by hand. If during rotation you feel a gap or even slight jamming, then the bearing devices need to be changed. The same applies to the appearance of sounds uncharacteristic of their normal operation.

Photo gallery “Main device malfunctions”

1. New and worn brushes

2. Bearings with frozen grease

3. Worn belt

Generator for VAZ 2110 which injector is better

Dear visitors of the “Cars” website! We will be very grateful for your comments on the video clip “Which injector generator for the VAZ 2110 is better”; registration is not required for this. We also ask you to let us know if you have any problems playing the video.

thx was just wondering

07.26.2017 — 14:29 Alexander Menshchikov

I bought it in 2013 at the eleventh volt start, died a week later, passed it under warranty

07/05/2017 — 22:00 Denis Kamozin

start volts is complete crap the bearing fell apart after 7 thousand km.

06/08/2017 — 04:12 Uazovod

Hello, could you tell me one thing? When many devices are turned on, the voltage drops. If you power the relay regulator with a plus to the power terminal +, and not with the add. diodes? Does the minus of the relay need to be moved? Or can I leave it on the body? 

05/13/2017 — 04:44 Alexander Selivanov

my drain outputs 14.5. So I shouldn’t bother?

05/09/2017 — 14:19 blaccki

buy a 3-level voltage regulator and get 14. 8-14. 6 under full load 

05/06/2017 — 23:00 Murat Karaketov

A good competent reviewer, I would like to add on my own behalf that the bearings are good, they have been spinning for years without problems, if desired, you can smear them with Castrol LMX? In short, the gene inspires respect, the only anchor, or rather. most likely it will not be possible to replace the plates after wear, but most likely they are twice as large as the factory ones, and the beating of the shaft should have been shown to the audience 

04/17/2017 — 12:23 Evgeniy Sukhoi

I installed the Pramo at 100 amps with the replacement of the regulator relay. In cold winter at 1200rpm 14.7 volts. At idle, I turn on the headlights, low beam, high beam, heated rear window, hazard lights, heater 2 speed. Voltage 13.8 volts. On the native 80 ampere at such speeds and load it was 12.3. Satisfied. Chevrolet Niva car. Start The burned out Volt was given to me for disassembly. I disassembled and burned out the diode bridge. Pramo works pah-pah without complaints for 1.5 years. 

04/11/2017 — 10:10 Pavel Aminow

God forbid you save you from this Chinese shit, God forbid anyone buys this, Starvolt parts often come to me, they are complete bullshit, they don’t stand up to any criticism, filthy China with disgusting metal and assembly, my advice to you if you are even a little - if you have a little respect for the domestic manufacturer, fuck that shit out, just throw it away and forget it. If you need a third harmonic, that is, BATE generators with a zero point, you can yourself lead the wire from the zero point to the fourth pair of diodes and the KZATE generator. Doesn’t it make you cringe at the thought that under your hood you have a part of the lousiest quality made of shit and sticks made by Starvolt? 

03/28/2017 — 10:44 mike che

Clean China, all of America rides on these :-

03.25.2017 — 17:19 Walter Khaipovich

The drain generator does not give 80 amperes, it gives somewhere around 40-45, I don’t remember exactly. The generator from the VAZ 2112 seems to give 70A. It’s better to put the front drive basins out normally. There will be at least some rework 

01.03.2017 — 14:01 maksim zakharov

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The need to repair a generator unit may arise for various reasons. As practice shows, the most common of them are failed brushes or bearings. Read below about repairing these components.

Brush replacement procedure

Replacement of VAZ generator brushes is carried out as follows:

1. First of all, you need to release the three latches on the device’s body, on its sides. These latches secure the cover to the mechanism.
2. The cover itself can be detached and put aside. This will allow you to access the regulator.
3. There are two bolts on the regulator that secure the device - they need to be unscrewed. Then pull the regulator and remove it.
4. Assess the condition of the brushes - if they are working, then the length of these elements should be at least 0.5 cm. If their size is smaller, then you have two options - either repair it by replacing the brushes, or change the device assembly. If repairs are being made, you will need a soldering iron since the brush assembly is soldered to the relay. First, you need to unsolder the wires connected to the brushes, and then dismantle the assembly, replacing it with a new one and securely soldering it to the relay contacts. Or you simply change the relay, and further assemble the device in the reverse order (the author of the video is the IZO channel)))LENTA).

How to change bearings yourself?

To replace the bearings, follow these steps:

1. On the dismantled generator, you need to block the rotor; to do this, use a screwdriver, then unscrew the pulley.
2. Next, by pulling the latches, you need to remove the device casing. You need to make marks on the two halves of the case, and then, using a screwdriver, you will need to remove the front cover.
3. Then you will need to knock the bearing out of its seat; to do this, you will need to place it on a more suitable object. Alternatively, you can use a 27mm socket.
4. After this, you can take a new bearing device and fill it with grease. This element should be hammered through the old one. To make the device more securely fixed at the installation site, you can use a chisel to flare the edges.
5. Now let's move on to the rear bearing. To do this, you need to place either a thick screwdriver or a thin chisel under it, and hit the top several times with a hammer, while simultaneously moving the screwdriver in the opposite direction. The device can be dismantled using an open-end wrench.

Generator voltage VAZ 2110 injector

Installation of a generator on a VAZ.

Replacement in the generator for a VAZ 2110.

Checking the generator voltage regulator.

Kalinovsky steering wheel for a VAZ 2110.

Removing and disassembling the generator.

2110-2112 at the best price with photos and descriptions, selling in Nevinnomyssk.

The main function of a car generator

generator VAZ-2110, 21102, 2111, 2112.

generator 9402.3701 with electromagnetic excitation, built-in rectifier.

Coolant temperature sensor VAZ 2115 where it is located.

57.3702 Relay voltage regulator VAZ-2110, GAZ-3110 injector with generator.

Forum of Kostroma Jedi - Generator VAZ 2110 - 15 injector 9402.

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In cold weather, appliances do not work or there is no charger - vaz15_e_sirg373701_14pd_c.

Generator 2108-2110 BATE 3202.3771 inj.

VAZ 2110 low voltage generator.

How to increase the voltage of a VAZ 2110 generator.

Hi all! This year we have a typical Taganrog winter, instead of snow there is rain, instead of snowdrifts there are potholes and knee-deep puddles. In rainy weather, my generator belt constantly whistled when I turned on consumers. The culprit was the new Dayco alternator belt, which was ungodly stretched. But this time the whistle sounded with all consumers turned off. I crawled under the hood and saw how the generator axle, together with the pulley, was dangling relative to the body. The reason is obvious: the bearings fell apart, a hum and play appeared. The belt began to whistle constantly, even when minor consumers such as low beam were turned on. I changed the bearings in the generator about 20k km ago. This time I decided not to suffer from bullshit, but to buy a new unit. I considered different options (“StartVolt” 120A, “Electrom” (Cheboksary 120A)), but in the end I chose KZATE 115A, which is installed with.

The logic was simple, my dear KZATE lived for 12 years (almost 170 thousand km) and perhaps would have gone even longer if I had not replaced the original bearings at 150 thousand, which became a little noisy, for some crap. Smart guys in the store told me that replacing bearings is a bad idea, all the bearings on sale are crap and they don’t last long, and that’s how it turned out.

Generator installation.

The generator from the Priora is bolted to ten, only the wiring will require minor modifications. The connection chip for the excitation winding differs from the tenth one. Having gone through the stores, I didn’t find the chip I needed. The solution came quickly; I used the acoustic terminal that connects the speakers. I soldered wires to it and wrapped it in heat shrink.

Becomes like family. You will also need to drill out the positive terminals that fit on the generator. On the old generator the stud was at six, but on the Priorovsk one it was at eight.

This time I decided to take the belt from BOSH. Before that I tried Balakovo, Gates and Dayco. Dayco turned out to be the worst. Bosch is cheaper than Balakovo (BOSH 400r, Balakovo 550r), but the quality seems even better.

Conclusions:

The power supply is sufficient, the gene works quietly and smoothly. Voltage with DRLs and music on is 14.2V. The voltage with all consumers turned on is 13.8V.

I once thought about installing an electric power steering system, but the standard generator was not enough for it to work; a new one would be enough. We can consider that the first step has been taken.

Of the minuses:

I heard that KZATE began to install cheap Chinese bearings, but time will tell. There may be a short blinking of the light when the speed is reduced. Apparently the voltage regulator is a little weird.

The generator is the power of the entire system of functioning of a single, albeit artificially created, organism called a car. It is specially designed to convert mechanical energy into electricity. But, like all components of any car, the generator on the VAZ 2110 performs its duties, which there is simply no one to do for it.

VAZ 2110 generator diagram

Replacing the generator with power steering, eliminating noise

There was a very strange knocking sound from the engine, when you accelerate and let off the gas there is a knocking sound from the area of ​​the generator and the steering wheel... I struggled with this for a long time, but not very successfully, in order: - the fault was on the belt roller, well, it was a little sensitive and not everything was going well with it okay, I was looking for a roller without play for a long time, but I found it and installed it, it didn’t help with the main knock; -removing the engine and power steering belt and starting the car, the knocking noise disappeared completely, well, for a long time I sinned on the power steering pump, then I replaced it, and it seemed to be better, but after some time this knocking noise came again (((... - I thought, what if it’s a generator It’s noisy, and the voltage was low when you turn everything on to 12V. I went to remove it and look, and then it started... Removing the gene on a car with power steering is another quest... I decided to remove it through the headlight, since it’s not possible to pull the receiver out through the top, but through the bottom, the pump Power steering, removing the pump means draining the oil, and then also pumping it... so it’s easier through the headlight, especially since I also changed the headlights)))

It fits through the headlight just fine, removing the headlight is not difficult))

And so, having removed the generator, I twirled it in my hands and realized that its bearings were running out...

burnt contact, apparently he was punished well at one time)

The contact from the winding is a little burnt, a stub from it remains, the bearings are damaged, the voltage sags, so I bought a new one then)))

dynamo

Dynamo 105A when the old one had 80 Next is the most interesting thing, the secret of the ominous noise is revealed...

bottom of generator mount

and this is the top part of the generator mount

that’s the reason for the noise, a mount broken in two was knocking on another engine mount.

I’ll say right away that finding a new bracket for an engine with power steering was not easy; I never found one in Bryansk! It is attached to the same bolts as the engine mount, but in order to screw it on I had to remove the pump; I removed it directly without twisting the tubes from it, but simply lowering it to the bottom)

The bottom bolt can only be tightened by removing the power steering pump

new generator next to the old one

The new one looks impressive, it has one more winding contact, the regulator is more massive, the voltage on board is 14.2 V and does not consistently respond to the heater and low beams)))) if you turn on everything you can, these are high beams, heated mirrors, emergency lights , heater, reverse, brake light...

The result is I'm happy, there is no noise, the voltage is normal, everything is fine))

• Generator 3800
• Bracket 560

Principle of operation

The principle of operation is this: you turn the key in the lock, and current flows to the excitation wire. The magnetic field that the armature creates penetrates the stator windings, at the terminals of which voltage appears. When the armature reaches a sufficiently high rotation speed, which is provided by the pulley and belt drive, the so-called self-excitation mode occurs.

The rectifier unit converts alternating current into direct current. The voltage regulator starts working when the crankshaft speed changes (accordingly, the armature rotates faster or slower) and regulates the time for which the field wire is turned on. Sometimes a generator malfunction may occur due to a blown fuse in the circuit.

Disassembling the generator

To avoid mistakes during subsequent assembly, you need to use a marker to put two marks on the metal covers of the generator.

1. Disassembly begins by removing the rear plastic casing. To do this, you will have to release three latches.
2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, open the two screws that secure the voltage regulator together with the brushes.
3. To remove the capacitor wire, you need to open the M 10 nut. Now all that remains is to unscrew the screw with a screwdriver and remove the capacitor.
4. To remove the generator pulley, you will need a vice, a 21 socket wrench and an 8 hexagon. The generator body is clamped in a vice, and the head is put on the nut. A hexagon is inserted through the hole in the head. By opening the nut, you can remove the pulley and washer.
5. You can disconnect the two parts of the generator after unscrewing the 4 fastening screws.
6. At the back of the case, the screws securing the diode bridge and the stator wire are unscrewed.
7. Now you can remove the diode bridge and the generator winding.
8. The rotor is easily squeezed out of the cover with your fingers along with the bearing.
9. Removing the plastic bearing bushing is not difficult. But to dismantle the bearing you will need a puller.
10. The bearing is removed from the front cover using a suitable mandrel and hammer.

When disassembly is completed, all that remains is to identify the defective parts.

Functions performed

So, what is a generator for? First of all, in order to provide all VAZ 2110 equipment that runs on electricity with energy. Perhaps someone thinks that this is the battery's task. Not really, because the battery is needed to maintain functionality when the engine is not running (it starts the engine, supports the alarm, music system while parked, etc.).

But when the engine has already started, with the help of the battery, the generator comes into play. During the trip, it is he who supports the operation of all electronics, air conditioning, audio (or even video systems), and everything else that you have added to your VAZ 2110.

Another equally important function of the generator is charging the battery. This also happens when the engine is running. And if it weren’t for this device, the battery would not be able to cope with its tasks, and it would have to be charged all the time.

Choosing a new generator

Despite the similarity of generators produced by different manufacturers, it is necessary to take into account a number of important factors. The main arguments are the number of consumers, generation, vehicle equipment

You should pay attention to the trade article, rated power, and originality of the product. It is more logical to provide a power reserve

Any device that does not operate at maximum loads will live longer. We should not forget about the wire cross-section and battery capacity. An increase in power entails an increase in current loads and overheating of the wiring. When choosing a new generator, you have to search for the golden mean. If energy consumption has not increased, additional consumers have not been connected, it is more correct to look for an analogue of the factory generator according to the article number.

Specifications

Most often, the VAZ 2110 is equipped with a Katek generator, usually designated by the numbers 5102.3771, but it can also be 94.3701. Both generators have a power of 80 amperes, and the output voltage is about 14V. But recently Katek has been releasing a new type of generator, also suitable for the VAZ 2110.

It produces a current of up to 120 amperes, and is more suitable for the high energy loads of a modern car. By installing a 120-amp generator, you can ensure simultaneous uninterrupted operation of almost all electricity consumers.

Device components

If the generator device is considered in terms of size, then there are compact and traditional ones. They also differ in their design features.

1. drive pulley;
2. excitation wire;
3. bracket;
4. anchor device.

They can be fastened with one bolt, or with several, and other “little things”. However, any generator has a general structure.

• The rotor (or armature) is the rotating part of the generator. The armature is designed to create a magnetic field using an excitation winding located on the shaft. The excitation wire is powered by slip rings located on the same shaft. The following are also located here: the excitation winding wire, the fan impellers (one or two), the drive pulley and the bearing assembly;
• The stator is the stationary part of the generator, consisting of three windings (three-phase), which create alternating current. These windings can be connected to each other by the so-called “star” or “delta”;
• The housing is most often made of lightweight non-magnetic aluminum alloy; it consists of two covers, secured with a bolt. The front cover is located in the same place as the drive pulley; the back cover is on the side where the slip rings are. Each bolt that connects the back and front covers is tightened. In the future, to disassemble the generator on a VAZ 2110, it is enough to remove the bolt mounts;
• Mounting the generator on a VAZ 2110. There is an upper mounting bracket that uses 2 bolts. The lower mounting bracket most often has one bolt, but there may be two, in which case minor modifications may be necessary. The bolt can be anything, the main thing is that the size is suitable, sometimes a sleeve is required for this. It is better not to redo the bracket itself. The bracket securely holds the generator, which has many responsibilities. And yet, we should not forget that the bracket, like the bolt, can break, so you need to monitor its condition;
• The structure of the brush assembly consists of two graphite brushes, springs that press them, and a brush holder;
• In modern Katek generators, the voltage wire and brush holder are located together in a non-separable unit. Therefore, if the voltage regulator fails, the entire assembly must be replaced. Structurally, this regulator can have a hybrid device - when radio elements with electronic devices are in the same circuit. But an integral is when the regulator is made in thin-film microelectronics technology. Many believe that the integral regulator copes better with its mission - controlling the duration and frequency of current pulses. The regulator changes the voltage used to charge the battery. At higher temperatures, less voltage goes to the battery. Although, in principle, it is not so important whether the integral is responsible for this regulation, or the hybrid;
• A rectifier unit with six diodes is responsible for converting the alternating current generated by the armature and stator into direct current, directly used by all on-board equipment. It also serves to charge the battery;
• The device is driven by a belt drive. It provides a significant increase in the speed at which the crankshaft rotates. In this case, the V-belt wears out faster if the pulley has a small diameter. If the driven pulley is small, it is better suited to a serpentine drive, which is more often used in modern generators.

Here, in brief, is the basic structure of generators, regardless of whether they produce 80 or 120 amperes.

Possible faults

Like all other systems in a car, the alternator can also fail. Sometimes repairs can be made and the device will work again. But in case of some malfunctions, only replacing the VAZ-2112 generator will help.

Diagnostics of this unit is performed when increased noise occurs during operation. Often noise occurs due to severe wear of bearings. But often only the bearing located in the front cover fails. It is subject to increased radial loads, so it does not last long. If the drive belt is too tight, this will also affect the rate of bearing wear.

What to choose?

In terms of popularity and reliability, the first places are occupied by manufacturers Bosch (Bosch), Denso (Denso) and Delphi (Delphi). But you should know that Katek (KZATE) (made by us) are also quite reliable and do a good job of their duties on the VAZ 2110, creating the required voltage. Maybe somewhere they lose against Bosch, but compared to the Chinese they are at their best.

VAZ generators of the tenth family:

So it’s difficult to say for sure which generator is right for you; the best one is the one that provides the necessary power to operate electrical appliances and charge the battery. If we take the advantages that Katek clearly has, then this is sufficient reliability, and also - what is important - the availability of inexpensive spare parts for sale: you can always buy at least a fuse, a pulley, an armature, a voltage regulator, an excitation wire, etc.

Generator - performance check

Many car enthusiasts are interested in how to test a new generator that has just been installed on a car? Or how to check that the old one has already failed, although it seems to be working normally? After all, driving with a faulty generator can have a number of unpleasant consequences, the easiest of which is completely discharging the battery and stopping the car, and the most severe is damage to the on-board network and devices.

In order to test this device, you will need a tester (multimeter).

The diagnosis itself is performed in the following order:

By performing the test according to the specified scheme, you can quickly and accurately determine whether the generator is working. But, there are a number of indirect signs that may also indicate a malfunction of this device.

If you detect even one of these signs, you should immediately perform a full check (according to the scheme described above). If it turns out that the generator is faulty, a new one should be installed instead. But we’ll look at which generator is better to put on a VAZ 2114 below.