Remaking the brake system of a VAZ 2110 on your own

As you know, you can’t go far in life or in a car without brakes, because in addition to accelerating, you also need to stop in time, prevent a collision with an obstacle, etc.

Let's look at how the brake system of the VAZ 2110 is designed, what malfunctions are most common, and what modifications are possible in order to improve the brakes.

Hydraulic brake circuit diagram

Device

Hydraulic brakes are installed on the machine and operate generally reliably. They are double-circuit and have a diagonal distribution. That is, if one part suddenly fails, then braking by another circuit is possible. For the sake of safety, the VAZ 2110 brakes operate diagonally, one circuit is the right front and left rear wheels, the other is also diagonal.

This device allows you to brake efficiently (without skidding and other troubles) even in the event of a malfunction, if the brakes in one of the circuits are lost.

Let's consider the design of the brake system. The hydraulic drive includes a vacuum booster, as well as a dual-circuit regulator that creates pressure in the rear brakes.

In addition, the hydraulic drive is equipped with pipelines divided into two circuits, hoses and brake mechanisms that provide braking to the front and rear mechanisms.

The hydraulic drive is activated by a pedal located in the cabin (middle). Here are the main components of the hydraulic drive:

    Vacuum booster. It is designed in such a way that it creates pressure on the master cylinder piston, and thus causes braking;

Vacuum brake booster

Brake pressure regulator drive

Master brake cylinder

Front wheel brake

Rear wheel brake

The brakes require attention. Without waiting for the warning light to come on, indicating a critical level of fuel fluid or wear of the linings, and even more so, without allowing the brakes to completely disappear, you need to carry out preventive checks.

Particular attention should be paid to all connections and hoses, since the “escaped” brake fluid will not make it possible to brake, and from here it’s not far from tragedy.

Let's get started

Only after a thorough inspection of the parts is the brakes properly pumped. The VAZ-2110 is placed on a flat platform. First, the rear right part is hung out and the wheel is removed. Next, check the fluid level in the plastic tank. It should be at an average level, but not below the minimum. So, add fluid to the MAX mark and start bleeding the brakes. First, clean the valve from dirt. Next, remove the protective rubber cap from it. A hose is placed over the valve head. Its second end is lowered into a clean transparent bottle (for example, a mineral water bottle).

Alarm Signals

The following symptoms are quite unsafe, please note:

  1. If the brakes are completely gone, then it’s clear that you can’t go any further, even to a service station! If independent repairs on site are beyond your capabilities, or simply impossible, you need to call a tow truck;
  2. When braking there is a strong vibration, especially felt in the steering column. You press the pedal, and it’s just hard to hold the steering wheel in your hands. There can be several reasons for vibration: • Many argue that vibration can occur due to the fact that there are non-ventilated disks. Their design is such that they really don’t like it when braking occurs in the rain, or even right in a puddle. No repair will help here - you need to replace the disks with ventilated ones; • Vibration may also occur if there is a problem with the rear drums. If upon inspection you find dark spots on the working surface, this indicates uneven wear. The vibration is usually very strong. Such drums need urgent repairs, and possibly replacement with disc brakes; • Check the front brake discs for deformation. At the same time, vibration is also observed.
  3. The brake pedal is too tight. There may also be several reasons for this: • A clogged air filter for the vacuum booster can cause the pedal to become stiff; • Check the vacuum booster itself. Its possible malfunctions are destruction of the diaphragm, tip, sticking of the check valve, damage to the hose connecting the intake manifold to the amplifier. In all these cases, a stiff pedal syndrome may occur, and repair of any of the indicated faults is necessary; • Also, the pedal may become stiffer as the pads wear, check them too.
  4. Hisses when you press the brake. If it hisses exactly when you press the pedal, you need to urgently check the vacuum booster, and then decide whether it needs repair or replacement. But if it hisses when you release the brake, then this is a normal phenomenon. Unless, of course, the hiss is too obvious.

see also

Comments 111

The diameter of the brake disc also affects 16kl. comes 14″ plus ventilated, for 8 cells. goes 13″. That’s why the gearboxes have normal brakes) well, at least two times better than the 8kl. I suspect that the Priora is not very different from the last 12)

Thank you. I like it myself

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