The day before yesterday in the morning, I’m getting ready to go to work, I get into the Kalina, turn the ignition key... and the key turns past the “Starter” position. The engine started. Realizing that something wrong had happened, I tried to turn the key back, but no such luck, the key does not turn in any direction. I pulled the key out of the lock and the car continued to work. I inserted/took out the key several times, tried to turn it back and forth - all to no avail.
I understand that it’s not worth driving to work, in case the steering wheel bites on the road. And then how to start it? But first you need to turn it off. I didn’t immediately remember about fifth gear and the sharp clutch, so I reached under the hood and pulled the wires off the ignition coils. The engine stalled, but the ignition remained on. I removed the terminal from the battery and ran to work on foot...
I'm researching the Internet - I'm not the first to have this problem. The reason is a broken return spring. The springs are not on sale separately, but they can be taken from the new model VAZ-2108/2109 ignition switch, which costs much less than the Kalinovsky one. Replacing the lock will be accompanied by replacing the cylinders in the doors, because... Kalina has the same key for all the locks.
The next problem is removing the ignition switch. It is mounted on 4 bolts with shear heads. Those. you will have to unscrew it with the help of a chisel, a hammer and some mother...
In practice, everything turned out to be somewhat simpler than it seemed; working with a chisel turned out to be not so difficult. A couple of hours and the lock is removed.
I disassembled the lock - everything turned out to be exactly as they write on the Internet. The return spring broke, the key turned further, and the locking ball fell into the groove of the steering shaft lock, blocking the key.
Second day. After work I go shopping in search of spare parts. It was impossible to walk further than the first store I came across, so I stopped there. There are no springs for sale. There is a lock from Kalina for 890 rubles (and on the Internet they wrote that in 2011 it cost 1200 rubles, apparently spare parts for Kalina do not increase in price, but fall, which is good news. But remembering that the same spring is in the VAZ lock - 2108, I also inquired about this lock. It turned out that it also exists and costs 360 rubles! Visually it looks exactly like the Kalinov lock, differing only in the plastic lining on the cylinder and the connectors. I decided to take the figure-eight one.
At home I disassemble the lock, and here it is! It's exactly the same spring! I moved it to the old lock, lubricated it and assembled it. I checked it with the key, it works fine. It's time to put it on the car.
Ignition switch malfunctions
Like any electronic device, the ignition switch of the Lada Kalina is subject to frequent breakdowns.
Malfunctions can occur for a variety of reasons, the most common of which are the following. Oxidation of contacts always leads to serious damage (usually due to moisture and dampness in the machine)
Contact burnout. what happens due to sudden voltage surges. Voltage drops usually occur when the power unit is started, during which the temperature inside the system rises sharply, causing the insulation to simply burn out
This is why it is so important to approach the launch issue wisely.
Mechanical damage. If, when you are about to turn the key, you notice that it has become more difficult to do so than usual, it means that something happened to the lock cylinder, perhaps it was simply clogged with dirt or dust, or maybe there was a defect at the factory that came to light only now.
If the problem lies in burnout or oxidation, then when you turn the key in the lock, you will not see any reaction from the ignition system. In this case, you just need to replace the contacts without changing the entire lock; if the defect in the wires is not severe, then you can get by with cleaning the contacts.
Damage to the lock cylinder also occurs when someone tries to steal a car. In any case, the lock needs to be changed completely. But how to do it yourself?
How to use the lock?
The standard Lada Kalina lock has three key positions.
- Position “0” is fixed. From this position the key can be easily removed. In this key position, external lighting devices can operate. The functionality of the alarm and sound system is also available.
- Position “1” is also fixed. Here the key is locked inside the lock and cannot be removed. The ignition is turned on. Power from the on-board network is available to all consumers, excluding the starter. It is not recommended to leave the key in this position for a long time, as the battery may be discharged. Before starting the engine, it is advisable to hold the key in this position for about five seconds. During the specified period, the fuel supply pump will be able to create sufficient fuel pressure in the line for trouble-free starting of the engine.
- Position "2". This mode ensures that the starter unit is turned on. When the key is released, it returns to position “1”. If you completely remove the key and turn the LADA Kalina steering wheel to one side, the mechanism shaft will be blocked. This is necessary as an anti-theft measure. To “free” the steering wheel, you will need to set the key again to the “zero” position and rotate the steering wheel with rocking movements to achieve the ability to move the key to position “1”.
In the position corresponding to the starter activation mode, the key should not be held for more than 8-10 seconds. If an attempt to start the power plant is unsuccessful, you must pause for about 15-20 seconds and repeat the start. Also, do not hold the key in this position while the engine is running.
When driving, it is forbidden to remove the key from the lock cylinder. If this is neglected, the shaft will block, which will cause loss of controllability.
If the key is left in the lock and the driver's door is open, the audible warning signal will be activated. When the key is removed, but the parking lights are on, when the Lada Kalina door is opened, an audible warning will again sound in the form of short beeps.
Replacing the front wheel bearing Kalina
Tighten the handbrake on Kalina
Replacing the Kalina 8-valve thermostat
The lock has a function to block the starter from turning on while the engine is running.
An immobilizer sensor is also integrated into the lock design. This is an anti-theft agent. Note that a lock with an immobilizer can function without problems in the following range of external temperatures: from minus 40 to plus 45 degrees Celsius.
The set usually consists of two keys. The first key integrates a remote control for the central locking of LADA Kalina, and the second has a red insert.
The main (first) key is responsible for the following functions:
- turning on the ignition;
- luggage compartment and door lock;
- possibility of remote control;
- activation of the APS-6 immobilizer.
A key with a red insert provides:
- possibility of turning on the ignition;
- unlocking doors and luggage compartment lid;
- ensuring the immobilizer learning process.
Replacing the ignition switch – Lada Kalina Blog
Lada Kalina hatchback Sport Logbook Replacing handbrake cables on the Luca ZTD
I greet all readers of my blog, and this article will show the process of replacing the ignition switch on a Lada Kalina car. For a long time now I have had a similar review of other front-wheel drive cars, and I could have posted it on the website, but I decided to show everything specifically using Kalina as an example.
So, to perform this procedure we will need:
- Phillips screwdriver
- Sharp and narrow chisel
- Hammer
- Head for 10
- Ratchet with extension
Photo report on removing and installing the ignition switch on the Lada Kalina
The first step is to unscrew all the screws and screws securing the steering column casing. I won’t dwell on this point in detail; I think that there shouldn’t be any problems here.
There is no need to remove the steering wheel, although in my photo it is removed, since the process was carried out while disassembling the car. So, we set the chisel on the bolt heads, as shown in the photo below:
You can see this more clearly in close-up.
In this way, we remove all 4 bolts securing the ignition switch one by one. And after that we finally turn them off with long-nose pliers:
When they spin quite easily, you can even do everything by hand.
When the 3 bolts are unscrewed, the lock is almost completely released and must be held on the other side so that it does not fall. We unscrew the last one and remove the part, as well as the clamp.
All that remains is to disconnect the plugs with the power wires from the lock, as is clearly shown below.
The lock is now completely freed and ready to be replaced.
When installing a new one, please note that you need to buy special bolts with tear-off caps in order to install everything as required by the factory! The lock is installed on the shaft, and the bolts are tightened with a certain force until the caps of each of them break off
This photo is shown using the example of the tenth family, but the essence does not change.
The lock is installed on the shaft, and the bolts are tightened with a certain force until the caps of each of them break off. This photo is shown using the example of the tenth family, but the essence does not change.
We reconnect the plug, install the casing and you can check the functionality of the mechanism. If you have any questions, you can watch the video on this topic below.
Video review on replacing the ignition switch
This manual was demonstrated on a car of the tenth family, but, as mentioned above, there is practically no difference in performing this repair. There are a couple of things that will be different:
- There is one power plug on the ten, and there are two on Kalina
- The steering column cover is attached slightly differently
Let's sum it up
Upon completion of the entire list of manipulations, this chip key can be considered trained. Sometimes the first attempt, when the key is trained, may not bring the expected result. You should not despair, because if you repeat the procedure, the situation is guaranteed to improve. And now you know how to register the key correctly.
Sources
- https://FB.ru/article/424366/lada-kalina-zamok-zajiganiya-ustroystvo-printsip-rabotyi-pravila-ustanovki-sistema-zajiganiya-dostoinstva-nedostatki-i-osobennosti-ekspluatatsii
- https://successfulauto.ru/otechestvennye-avtomobili/lada-kalina/167-ignition-key-viburnum.html
- https://Vaz-Lada-Granta.com/kalina/elektrika-i-tormoz/zamok-zazhiganiya.html
- https://Vaz-Russia.com/remont-vaz-1117-kalina-universal/obuchenie-immobilayzera-na-kaline.html
- https://carfrance.ru/kak-obuchit-klyuch-na-lada-kalina-svoimi-rukami/
- https://korean-car.ru/menaem-zamok-zazhigania-na-lada-kalina/
- https://1ladakalina.ru/obsluzhivanie/kak-obuchit-klyuch.html
- https://avtozam.com/vaz/lada-kalina/menyaem-zamok-zazhiganiya/
- https://Vaz-Russia.com/remont-vaz-1117-kalina-universal/zamena-zamka-zazhiganiya-na-kaline.html
- https://Vaz-Lada-Granta.com/kalina/elektrika-i-tormoz/obuchenie-klyucha.html
Key programming instructions for Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, etc.
- Close all doors. Turn on the ignition with the training key and wait in the on state for at least 6 seconds.
- Turn off the ignition. The indicator light in the warning lamp unit should flash quickly (at a frequency of 5 times per second) while the learning procedure is being carried out correctly. If the lamp stops flashing quickly, it indicates an incorrect operation, an out-of-time interval, or a malfunction. Remove the training key from the ignition switch.
- While the warning lamp is flashing (about 6 seconds), insert the remote control and turn on the ignition. The immobilizer buzzer should emit three sound signals. If the buzzer does not sound and the flashing indicator stops, this means: - the time interval of 6 seconds has been exceeded and it is necessary to repeat the learning procedure, starting from step 1; - the immobilizer is faulty
- Wait 6 seconds for the buzzer to emit two more beeps and turn off the ignition.
- If it is necessary to train the second remote control, then you should perform steps 3...4 again, using the second learning remote control to turn on the ignition. If not, continue from step 6.
- After turning off the ignition for no more than 6 seconds, while the indicator is flashing, remove the remote control, insert the learning key and turn on the ignition. The buzzer should beep three times. Wait 6 seconds until the buzzer beeps two more times.
- Turn off the ignition without removing the training key, wait 6 seconds until the buzzer sounds a single sound signal. The indicator should flash twice as fast. If the sound signal does not sound and the flashing of the indicator stops, you should return to step 1 and repeat the learning procedure. If a repeated failure occurs when performing step 7, this means that the ECM was previously trained with a different key, in which case the controller should be replaced.
- After the buzzer gives a single sound signal, no later than 3 seconds, turn on the ignition for 2...3 seconds and then turn it off (after turning on the ignition, the buzzer will sound three times and the indicator will stop flashing). The hazard warning lights should flash and the car signal will “beep”.
- Remove the learning key. Wait with the ignition off for at least 10 seconds. Insert the working key and turn on the ignition. Wait 6 seconds, if the indicator does not flash, test start the engine, the engine should start. If the indicator flashes, turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds. Turn on the ignition. The warning light should not blink, and the engine should start. If after turning on the ignition, after 6 seconds the warning light comes on with a constant light, then the learning procedure must be repeated, starting from step 1.
Replacing the ignition switch for a VAZ 2115 injector
General information
The purpose of the Kalina ZZ is no different from other cars - turning on the ignition and controlling the engine starter. It is equipped with a mechanical interlock and protection against restarting the starter without turning off the ignition. This allows you to protect the flywheel crown and bendix from accidental turning of the key. There is also electronic protection in the form of an immobilizer, the antenna of which is integrated into the 3Z.
The Kalina ignition switch has 3 positions, each of which is described in the table.
| Position | Consumers |
| 0 | Side lights, radio, hazard warning lights, brake lights, courtesy lamp |
| 1 | Car ignition system, low and high beams, heater, washer and wipers, turn signals, fuel pump. |
| 2 | Starter |
The key can only be pulled out in the zero position. In order not to forget it in the lock, when the engine is turned off, an audible alarm is provided, which turns on simultaneously with the opening of the driver's door.
Removing and disassembling the ignition switch Lada KalinaVAZ 11173-11183-11193
Communities Lada Priora Lada Priora Club Blog Ignition switch wires
We remove the ignition switch to replace its assembly, as well as to replace the contact group of the switch or the APS coil. Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery. We remove the steering column switches (see “Removing the steering column switches”). The heads of the ignition switch mounting bolts are cut off. That's why..
...unscrew them using a chisel. Loose bolts can be removed using pliers.
Remove the bracket from the steering column...
...and the ignition switch. Use a slotted screwdriver to pry up the clamp of the APS coil wire block...
...and disconnect the coil wiring block from the APS block wiring block.
By pressing the block latch... ..disconnect the ignition switch contact block from the wiring harness block.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws...
...and remove the ignition switch bracket.
We take out the locking rod of the anti-theft device. Turn the key in the ignition switch...
...and remove the locking rod drive. We remove the rod spring from the drive...
...and a stopper with a spring. We push the cylinder out of the switch body...
...and remove the locking ball.
Remove the cylinder from the switch body.
We remove the locking ball spring from the hole in the cylinder.
Using a screwdriver we pry off the two plastic latches of the wire block cover...
...and open the lid. We mark the wires located in the block.
Using a thin awl or stiff wire, bend the locking tendrils of the wire tips...
...and remove the wires from the block.
Remove the insulating tube from the wires.
Squeezing the three plastic latches with a screwdriver… ..remove the contact group from the body…
...and bring the wires out through the holes in the housing.
Using a screwdriver we pry off the three plastic latches...
...and disconnect the contact group.
Remove the moving part of the contact group.
By pressing the moving contact and turning it counterclockwise...
...remove it from the body.
Remove the contact spring.
Using a screwdriver...
...remove the APS coil. We assemble and install the ignition switch in the reverse order. We install the moving part of the contact group like this...
...so that the wide protrusion of the movable contact is located opposite the protrusion on the cover with the fixed contact... ...and the protrusion on the lock cylinder must fit...
...into the recess on the body of the moving part of the contact group.
..
220
221
223 ..
ignition switch Kalina connection
Egnition lock
In the power supply circuit for most of the vehicle's electrical equipment, except for the emergency, sound and light alarms, the canopy lighting, side lights, the brake signal, the security alarm and the electric door locks, voltage is supplied through the ignition switch. To increase the car's anti-theft properties, the switch is combined with a lock, which is why this device is more often called an ignition switch.
The lock body is attached to the steering column with four special bolts with break-away heads. At a certain tightening torque, the bolt heads come off, and after that it becomes impossible to unscrew the bolts with wrenches.
The ignition switch is additionally equipped with a steering shaft locking mechanism. Once the key is removed from the lock, the spring-loaded latch is released. When you try to turn the steering wheel, the latch locks the steering shaft from turning.
EXAMINATION
To do the job you will need a multimeter.
Execution Sequence
1. Prepare the car for work and disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Remove the decorative linings of the steering column.
3. Disconnect the pair of connectors of the ignition switch (lock) wires.
4. Using a multimeter (in ohmmeter mode) based on the color of the wires, we check the serviceability of the terminals in the block.
Perform the check when the key is in position O - “off”. Then check the contact closure in position I - “on” and II - “starter”. The order of contact closure and the colors of the wires at the terminals are shown in the car electrical diagram
We replace the ignition switch with a faulty contact group.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
To complete the job you will need four special bolts with breakaway heads.
In the absence of special bolts, you can secure a new lock using MB threaded bolts 20 mm long, although the anti-theft security of the car will be significantly reduced.
Removal
1. Disconnect the ignition switch (lock) wiring harness connectors.
2. Having rested the chisel blade against the edge of the head of one of the bolts, lightly hit the chisel with a hammer to loosen the bolt. Similarly, loosen the three remaining bolts securing the switch.
The chisel should not cut the head of the bolt, it should turn the bolt counterclockwise to loosen it.
3. Using pliers with narrow jaws, remove the bolts. While unscrewing the last bolt, hold the ignition switch. Remove the lock mounting bracket and the ignition switch itself from the steering column.
Installation
1. Before installing the ignition switch, insert the key into it and turn it to position I (“on”) so that the latch of the steering shaft locking mechanism is pushed into the lock body.
2. Install the ignition switch with mounting bracket on the steering column and hand-tighten the new mounting bolts.
3. Having removed the key from the ignition switch, we check the operation of the steering shaft locking mechanism. If the steering shaft does not lock after a full turn of the steering wheel, the position of the ignition switch on the steering column must be adjusted so that the lock latch can engage the groove in the steering shaft.
4. After making sure that the locking mechanism works, use a 10 mm spanner to tighten the bolts evenly (crosswise, half a turn) until their heads come off.
5. Connect the ignition switch (lock) wire blocks and install the steering column pads.
Detailed programming instructions
How to train a key? To train the key in LADA Kalina you will need to follow eight steps.
- So, programming the key begins with closing the doors and activating the ignition. We carry out this manipulation only using a training key. Having started the engine, we perform a delay for 6 seconds.
- Now we turn off the LADA Kalina engine. At this moment, the tidy control indicator is switched to flashing mode. This action continues until the end of the learning process. When the indicator stops blinking for unknown reasons, this indicates the presence of an incorrectly performed manipulation at some stage. If this situation occurs, then repeat the ignition switch with a delay.
- The third stage of action is also characterized by the blinking of the indicated indicator. This happens for 6 seconds. At this time, you will need to re-insert the key into the lock and activate the ignition. When all manipulations are performed correctly, three sound signals will start coming from the buzzer.
- With the beginning of the 4th stage, you will need to do a little holding. Upon completion of repeated sound signals, insert the learning key and repeat the procedure. If we fail to complete this process, we conclude that an error was made during the manipulations. One might suspect that this chip key has previously been subjected to a similar procedure.
- The fifth stage involves turning off the ignition. The operation regarding the second element will need to be repeated about 3 times.
- In the next step, the control symbol starts flashing again. Here you will need to remove the trained key, after which we insert the training remote control. Correctly performed manipulations will be confirmed by a three-time buzzer.
- At the penultimate stage, we wait for a couple of signals to sound.
- We complete the action by turning off the ignition. Next, we wait for a single buzzer signal. Now you know how to train a key.
Replacing the ignition switch yourself
Unfortunately, the Lada Kalina cannot please you with its reliability and durability; many systems, including the ignition switch, fail within a couple of years, so in order to save on repairs at expensive car repair shops, it is better to find out how to do it yourself. So, having come to the conclusion that the lock needs to be changed, we buy a new lock, which costs around a thousand rubles. In the kit we will receive three cylinders (on the doors and trunk) and 2 keys. You also need to purchase four shear bolts. since the old ones will no longer be suitable after dismantling.
In addition to the product itself, we will need the following tools:
- chisel;
- two screwdrivers, a flat one for removing the clamps and a cross for the bolts;
- 10mm wrench or 10mm ratchet;
- key to 8.
Let's get started
1. First you will need to disconnect the battery cable from the negative.
2. Armed with a cross-head screwdriver, unscrew the fasteners on the steering column. To make it more convenient for you, we immediately warn you: there are two bolts on the right and left sides (3), two at the bottom in the middle (2), and two at the very bottom (1). There is also a self-tapping screw located directly under the steering wheel (4).
3. We take out the clamps holding the steering column switches. We dismantle the switches.
4. Now we need the help of a chisel. It is necessary to apply blows of medium power and unscrew the bolts. Bolts, as a rule, become very sticky after several years of use, so you will have to work hard. As soon as you notice that the bolts begin to move out of place, you can pick up pliers and continue to work only with their help.
5. We need to get to the lock connectors, of which there are only two (main power and immobilizer antenna). The connectors are hidden under the console casing. To gain access to the connectors, you need to slightly pull the wiring harness away from the lock and pull them out.
6. Unplug the connectors, and then remove the ignition system switch.
Now we replace the old lock with a new one and reassemble it in the reverse order. But don’t forget that you need to do a little more magic on the doors and trunk, changing the lock cylinders.
Replacing door cylinders
To remove the old cylinders on the doors and trunk, you need to carry out a simple job consisting of several stages.
1. Take a 8mm wrench (or a 8mm socket with a ratchet) and a Phillips screwdriver. 2. Unscrew the screws from the door trim and remove it.
3. After removing the casing, you need to use a 8mm head to unscrew the iron figured holder (3 bolts).
4. We reach for the rods and, using a screwdriver, remove them.
5. We get to the bolts that secure the handle, the bolt is screwed in from the end, and if you look deep into the door there will be a nut number 8, unscrew that too.
6
Carefully pull out the door handle
7. We take out the larva, having first found the latch and pressed it with something very thin.
The tailgate lock can be removed a little easier:
1. Remove the door trim and see the lock system.
2. Unscrew the two nuts by 8 and tear off the system in which the larva “sits” from the rod.
3. We disassemble it and take out the cylinder (when disassembling it is better to remember where and how everything is attached, there are many small parts.
When the problem is spark plugs
The ignition switch is not always the reason the engine refuses to start. In such an unpleasant situation, you should start troubleshooting by checking the spark plugs. What kind of spark plugs should be equipped with the Lada Kalina engine? The manufacturer recommends “A17DVRM” elements. As an analogue, you can install “A15DVRM”. You can also resort to installing products from foreign manufacturers. The cost of the kit is small (does not exceed 500 rubles), so there is no point in saving, but it is recommended to purchase high-quality products.
The design of the candles may vary slightly. This concerns the number of electrodes. For LADA Kalina, it is recommended to use products with two electrodes: central and side. The service life directly depends on operating conditions and fuel quality. It is recommended to replace spark plugs after 30,000 miles. To perform the replacement procedure, you will need to stock up on a special spark plug wrench. How to remove and also how to replace spark plugs? The process itself is quite simple and looks like this (motor cooled):
- We wipe the adjacent areas around the spark plug wells with a rag to prevent debris from getting inside the combustion chambers.
- We remove the ends of the high-voltage wires from each spark plug.
- We unscrew each of the spark plugs one by one and inspect the electrodes (image No. 4).
- We screw in the new products using the appropriate tightening torque.
Training procedure
Carrying out the training procedure leads to the following consequences:
- the engine control controller activates the anti-theft function if it has not been activated;
- the system changes its password to a new one chosen at random;
- a new system password is written into the training key;
- all remote controls that were previously trained are erased from memory;
- The codes of those remote control units that were trained in this training procedure are stored in memory.
The training procedure is applied in the following cases:
- activating the anti-theft function in the controller (for example, in a new car or replacing a faulty controller);
- erasing old and training new remote controls if lost;
- changing the system password if the owner admits that his system password may have been read (for example, when selling a car from one owner to another)
- remote control training when replacing a faulty immobilizer with a new one.
Only new remote control units or those that were previously trained using the training key used in this training procedure can be trained. It is impossible to learn a remote control key from another car into your car.
Please note: Due to the importance of the training key, it is not recommended to use it for everyday use and should be kept in a safe place. Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline, so as not to get confused by squeaks
Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline so as not to get confused by the squeaks.
The purpose of the key and its capabilities
The remote control for a car is designed to remotely open and lock doors, turn on the alarm, block the trunk door, lower the windows and perform other actions. This key is also used as a coded electronic key for the immobilizer. The immobilizer can be disabled, then the car will be able to start from a “normal blank”.
Such a system is attached to the metal part of the key itself and is intended for connection to the car system by:
- Radio channel.
- Transponder channel.
Correct use of the key
Regular remote control key Lada Kalina
To use the remote control key in a car, it must first be trained (activated). To do this you need to use a training key. Also, using such a key, you can remove restrictions on starting the engine. It is possible to use such a key with two remote controls.
Resynchronization of remote control codes
In cases where the remote control buttons are pressed outside the range of the radio channel, the “floating” code counter in the remote control goes out of synchronization with the counter in the system control unit. If the number of button presses outside the signal reception area of the system exceeds 1000, the system stops responding to remote control commands. In this case, the remote control training procedure should be repeated.
Updated August 01, 2013
Due to the increasing number of cases of lost training (master) keys for car owners of Kalina, Priora, Grant, Niva-Chevrolet, we are introducing a new type of service: registration of working keys in these cars, without a master key!
Usually in such cases, it is necessary to change a set of blocks: ECU (electronic engine control unit), APS unit, glass control unit, ignition switch complete with door cylinders and new keys, etc.
Now in our company you can register a working key with buttons without a training key, and for an additional fee you can receive a new training (red) key for your car. For this procedure, you need to come by car and leave it while the work is being carried out. The work includes dismantling the necessary units (ECU, APS, etc.) from the car, programmatically changing the data, installing the units on the car and registering the keys. We emphasize that a key registered in this way will cost more than registering the remote control yourself if you have a training key, but naturally cheaper than buying and replacing a set of blocks with new ones.
Update January 05, 2014
Attention! It is now possible to make a duplicate chip for autostart using a working key with remote control buttons! A master or training key is not required. The chip obtained in this way can be used both for installation in the immobilizer bypass unit to implement autostart, and for everyday use, starting the engine of Lada Kalina, Priora, Niva-Chevrolet cars
Such a duplicate is more expensive than a regular chip, which can be registered using a master key, but this is a real solution in cases where the master (training) key is lost
To create a duplicate, you need a car, a working key with remote control buttons (and it doesn’t even matter if it is partially faulty, for example, the buttons don’t work, etc., the main thing is that the ignition key starts the engine). The entire copying procedure takes 10-15 minutes.
Contact us by phone in contacts.
Repair or buy a new one
There is no clear answer to this question. The fact is that it is very difficult to find a new contact group on the Kalina ZZ, in contrast to the classics, Samara and the tenth family. Therefore, you have to repair it, which without experience, skills and desire is not the best idea. Most often, owners install a new ZZ by purchasing it assembled.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the Kalina ignition switch has an immobilizer that will not respond to the new key and the car will not be able to start. Of course there is a way out. You can retrain the immobilizer for a new key. In this case, you will also have to change the cylinders on the door locks.
You can do it easier - carry two keys with you. True, it is not clear whether it is worth keeping them on one bundle. Therefore, the most reasonable thing would be to make a new “tip” and install it on the old key. By the way, it may be included in the delivery of a new lock.
Ignition switch Lada Kalina diagram, wires, how to connect, remove, replace
The voltage in all electrical equipment of the vehicle, excluding parking lights, brake lights, interior lighting and hazard warning lights, is controlled by the ignition switch. To increase the car's resistance to theft, the ignition switch is combined with a lock. The lock, in turn, is held on the steering column by special bolts with break-away heads.
It is impossible to remove such bolts with a wrench; you need to firmly tighten the bolt and tear off the head. The ignition switch is also equipped with a mechanism that locks the steering shaft. The shaft is fixed by means of a latch, which does not allow it to rotate when the steering wheel is turned.
You can check the operation of the ignition switch as follows. First of all, you will need to prepare the car for inspection; you will need a multimeter as part of the equipment. Disconnect the wire terminal from the battery negative. After this, you need to remove the decorative trims from the steering column.
The next step is to disconnect the ignition switch wiring harness connectors. Next, you should check whether the terminals in the block are properly connected using a multimeter. The key in the lock must be in the zero position (off).
Then you should do the same check procedure for key positions 1 and 2 - “on” and “starter”. If there are any problems with the ignition switch, it must be replaced with a new one.
Removal, installation and disassembly-assembly of the ignition switch.
Tools required: flat head screwdriver, chisel and hammer.
Procedure:
Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal from the battery. Disconnect the casing from the steering column. Release the lock.
Disconnect the ignition switch wiring harness from the instrument panel wiring.
Disconnect the same block from the wiring harness of the immobilizer control unit.
Using a hammer and chisel, remove the 4 breakaway bolts.
Separate the ignition switch from the steering column.
Bend the ignition switch wire block retainer.
Disconnect the terminals with wires from the block.
Squeeze the latches.
Remove the plastic cover from the ignition switch housing. Bend back the two plastic latches.
Remove the contact group from the lock cover. Inspect the contacts. If there are burnt or oxidized ones, you need to clean them with fine-grained sandpaper. If the damage is too great, the contact group or lock must be completely replaced.
Reassemble the ignition switch following the disassembly steps described in reverse order, paying attention to the location of the terminals with wires in the block. Install the ignition switch following the steps described for its removal.
Before installation, the locking rod of the anti-theft device should be recessed. To do this, you need to insert a key into the lock and change its position from zero to any other
Install the ignition switch following the steps described for removing it. Before installation, the locking rod of the anti-theft device should be recessed. To do this, you need to insert a key into the lock and change its position from zero to any other.
Working with a chisel
First you need to remove it so as to disconnect the ignition switch wiring harness blocks. In this case, the blade of the tool should rest against the edge of the bolt head, after which the bolt should be loosened by hitting the chisel with a hammer.
Next, you need to loosen the remaining bolts in exactly the same way.
It is very important not to cut the head of the bolt with a chisel. To loosen the tightening, the bolt must be turned counterclockwise
When the tension is loosened, you can remove the bolts with pliers.
When removing the last bolt, you must hold the ignition switch. This removes the fastening bracket and the lock itself.
Before installing the lock back, insert the key into it and move it to the first position. This slides the steering shaft lock latch into the lock.
Next, you need to install the ignition switch in place, remove the key from it and check whether the steering shaft lock works. After making sure that all mechanisms are in good working order, you need to connect the ignition switch wire blocks and attach the pads to the steering column.
Design
The lock consists of mechanical and electrical parts. Briefly about the design of each of them:
- The mechanical part is a cylindrical mechanism, which can only be turned with a key designed specifically for it. In addition, this includes an anti-theft latch that prevents the steering wheel from turning.
- The electrical part consists of terminals and contacts that close accordingly with each turn of the key. For this purpose, it is connected to the lock mechanics. There are only three contacts. One of them, the thirtieth, is supplied with plus directly from the battery. The remaining two (15 and 50) are intended to turn on consumers and the starter, respectively. To limit the current through the fiftieth contact, a relay is included in its circuit. The starter is powered through its contacts, and not through the Kalina ignition switch.
The immobilizer antenna is located in the decorative ring covering the 3Z. It responds to the transponder of the key inserted into the lock. The immobilizer recognizes only its own unique signal and gives permission to the control unit to start the engine.
