Quick answer: What kind of clutch is on the grant from the factory?

The clutch is designed to connect and disconnect the gearbox and engine flywheel, smoothing out sudden changes in torque loads. The friction clutch allows the car to start and stop smoothly with the power unit running. If sudden braking is necessary with the clutch engaged, it slips, protecting the gearbox from possible overloads. In good condition, the mechanism should provide a reliable connection between the transmission and the power unit.

Friction clutch device

The manufacturer installs the same clutch on the Lada Granta as on the Lada Kalina. The mechanism consists of a flywheel with a basket attached to it. The task of the latter is to continuously press the disk with linings made of friction material - this is how the torque from the engine is transmitted to the transmission. A cable-type clutch means that when the pedal is pressed, the cable connected to the clutch fork becomes taut, the paddles stop pressing the disc, and torque from the engine is not transmitted to the gearbox.

The clutch on the Grant has one disc; it is frictional with a central spring in the form of a diaphragm. It is located in a special aluminum crankcase and combined with the gearbox in one housing, attached directly to the cylinder block. For clarity, you can see a detailed drawing of the device.

Lada Granta clutch device

1. Drive cable.
2. Outer braid of the cable.
3. The end of the cable braid is lower.
4. Dust cover.
5. Metal leash.
6. Fork bracket.
7. Bearing sleeve.
8. Release bearing.
9. Casing.
10. Diaphragm spring.
11. Disk (master).
12. Flywheel.
13. Friction material linings on the disc.
14. Disk (slave).
15. Damper spring.
16. Rotation vibration damper.
17. Disc hub (driven).
18. Central spring.
19. Cable end.
20. Automatic cable tensioner housing.
21. Sleeve.
22. Fastening the cable braid.
23. Pan (crankcase).
24. Gearbox input shaft.

On the Lada Grant, the clutch does not require additional adjustment during its entire service life - this is what is written in the car’s operating manual.

Which clutch is better to put on a grant?

The clutch is designed to connect and disconnect the gearbox and engine flywheel, smoothing out sudden changes in torque loads. The friction clutch allows the car to start and stop smoothly with the power unit running. If sudden braking is necessary with the clutch engaged, it slips, protecting the gearbox from possible overloads. In good condition, the mechanism should provide a reliable connection between the transmission and the power unit.

Possible faults

How to fix

Only the main causes of mechanism malfunction are listed; many indirect factors pointing to the same components and assemblies should also be taken into account.

Signs of clutch wear

Clutch adjustment methods

All diagnostic and adjustment work is carried out only with the engine turned off. To identify the need to adjust the friction clutch, you should perform a few simple steps. You need to press the pedal two or three times - no knocks, squeaks or other extraneous noises should be heard. The pedal should move freely, without sticking. If you suspect that the pedal is sticking, but visually everything is in order, you should perform the following manipulations:

• press the pedal all the way by hand;
• release the pedal, but do it in such a way that your hand is on it, thereby you can feel its movement, but not interfere with its progress.

You can feel even the slightest jamming or jerking with your hand when the pedal returns to its initial position. If characteristic twitching is observed, it is necessary to make adjustments.

Using a ruler, measure the distance from the floor to the protruding part of the pedal. You need to press it all the way so that it rests on the floor, then release it. The distance is measured again. If the ruler is more than 145 mm, then the pedal free play must be adjusted to normal values.

The pedal's full travel distance should be no more than 146 mm, less is allowed. The cable guide should move relative to the fork lever no more than 27 mm. Normally, the runout of the friction linings of the disc should not exceed 0.5 mm. There must be a distance of at least 0.2 mm between the rivet holding the lining and the lining itself; less is not allowed.

Recommendations

Comments 32

Take the original Valeo. A colleague at work recently installed it and liked it.

Craft the best grip

I installed the bow set, disc and cart, I've been riding for a year, I'm happy

Valeo delivered everything perfectly, I recommend it.

Onions are quite normal. As an option, you can use a disc from an ino, if the bearing and basket are alive. Suitable for example from Accent 1.5, or higher from Mitsu they offer.

Basket onion or valeo, disk from Mitsubishi, Exedy MBD 006U - standardly installed on a car with a power of 136 hp, that is, there is a good supply. Becomes like family.

Does this drive fit right in without any modifications?

Absolutely. I have one like this now.

I think he's thicker. The basket shrinks a little. How does the clutch grip, in the same place as with the original one?

I'll write it down for myself. I didn’t know from Mitsu. Usually they install from the Accent, it is a millimeter thicker and the damper springs are fatter.

I have it in my blog and another person put it www.drive2.ru/l/462742114006990981/

Yes. There is a difference. I bought a set of Bow for almost 5000.

I have it in my blog and another person put it www.drive2.ru/l/462742114006990981/

He even broke some bolts there, and he installed 2110 again?

Absolutely. I have one like this now.

oooh, I'll take note, thank you very much)!

I installed a Luk from a Priora, but it’s expensive at 4200 here

Why is no one talking about Valeo? I already installed it twice - gut.

too soft, and the percentage of fakes and defects is high

The original bow, 70, passed, I installed it again, but it turned out to be a bad one, maybe it’s a fake, it barely made it through the winter. Buy l vis for two years now, everything is fine and it’s cheaper

I installed VIS, which with the EXEDY disk runs fine. But I don’t like it because it’s very soft... I’ll install Sachs or, at the very least, luk

When rebuilding the engine, Luk changed the driven disk, a good soft one.

I compare the soft hatch with the priory craft term. I would take the hatch or sax

Clutch cable adjustment

Adjusting the clutch of the Lada Granta begins by pulling the tip of the cable in the direction of its movement, taking into account the fact that the spring will create force. You should fix the cable in this position and start measuring from the front edge of the plastic leash to the clutch fork lever. It should be no more than 2.7 cm. Since there is not much space under the hood, you should prepare a piece of wire of the required length (27 mm) in advance and measure the distance with it.

The leash rotates to adjust the tension. After the clutch cable is released, you need to eliminate the gaps between the driver and the fork lever. Next, the friction clutch pedal is depressed several times - this is how the auto-adjustment mechanism takes its working position - the pedal should not be tight or fall through.

Judging by the reviews of Lada Granta owners, this mechanism is far from ideal and makes various extraneous sounds when you press the pedal - it starts to crunch or click. You can try to get rid of them by increasing or decreasing the distance of 27 mm. You need to select the size individually in each specific case.

Clutch kits for VAZ (Lada) Granta

for repair of VAZ (Lada) Granta

We installed a Trialli clutch on Grant's fret, the engine hesitates when you take off. I drove about 1000 km in three weeks, and ended up with a clutch failure. Today we changed it to Valio, the difference is like heaven and earth. I'll just say one thing: Trialli is complete garbage.

I bought a Sachs 3000950097 clutch, the master did not install the release valve from the kit, but installed the factory VBF. I like how the new clutch works, the pedal has become softer, and when you press the pedal you can’t hear the clicks of the auto tensioner.

I took the kit and changed it. It has gotten worse, it has become difficult to turn on 1-2 in a traffic jam, now it jerks more strongly. There is no full pressure, the pedal is lower than the brake, the cable is unscrewed to the maximum.

It seems that “that one” is not such a good company as it is praised. The clutch itself lasted for a year or 20 thousand km, so again there were difficult gear shifts. The basket had a touch of rust... The bearing on the input shaft was biting, so I had to finish it with sandpaper and a file.

There is not the slightest reason to change KRAFT TECH, 220 thousand and still alive. And the current for nerds is normal when driving aggressively for 30-50, it dies to the point of riveting.

I installed HATCH for myself. After 5000 km, things weren’t the same, they had already taken it apart at the service center, the disc was unevenly worn, and there was wear on the flywheel, in short, the flywheel had to be changed immediately. As a result, the clutch + flywheel was replaced again. It’s already 16 thousand km - the flight is normal.

Today I changed the clutch kit. The reason for the replacement was that the gear shift was difficult, so the reverse gear did not engage at all when it was hot. And the clutch pedal whistled when the clutch pedal was pressed. The factory clutch has done 189t km. I think it's a worthy result.

I decided to replace the clutch, since the clutch that came from the factory was stiff. I decided to immediately install a SACHS clutch. Since I already had experience using this clutch, I was very pleased. This is what the box looks like, they removed the box and installed a new clutch.

From the factory the clutch was from Luk. The photo shows 2170. General view.

Yesterday I changed my clutch to a Sachs. It’s too early to say anything, because... I only drove a couple of kilometers. From first impressions, the pedal has become much softer.

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Replacing the cable

To change the cable, you need to carry out a number of simple operations:

• in the car interior (under the panel), the nut that secures the cable to the pedal assembly is unscrewed;

• the braid stopper is removed from the pin;

• use pliers to remove the locking bracket;
• the pedal axle is removed;
• the pedal bracket spring is also dismantled;
• use pliers to pull it towards you and remove the tip stop;
• the pedal is released from the cable end;
• the cable sheath seal is removed (in the engine compartment);

• the tip of the cable connected to the plug must be pulled forward towards you and pulled out of the groove;
• dismantle the tip driver;
• remove the guide bushing;
• pull the Lada Granta clutch cable through the hole between the engine compartment and the car interior.

Before installing a new cable, it must be lubricated. To do this, a little machine oil is poured between it and its shell. Install the new cable in the reverse order. It is impossible not to pay attention to the imperfection of the cable tension mechanism. The reason for its squeaking may be:

• plastic bushing on the pedal;
• plastic leash;
• cable (cable and its sheath);
• gearbox input shaft.

Most of the reasons can be eliminated very simply - you need to lubricate the rubbing parts, for example, with lithol. The same applies to the input shaft - creaking occurs due to lack of bearing lubrication. To lubricate it, you need to get to the fork boot and, pulling it back, generously pump graphite lubricant inside.

The clutch of the Lada Grant remains the same as before. Exactly the same single-disk mechanisms were installed on previous models - Priora, first-generation Kalina, VAZ 2110, 2109, 2108. The plant only partially modified the design, providing it with higher quality parts. Additionally, an automatic cable tensioner has appeared, which in itself is an additional source of malfunctions. This is a fairly old development, and during its use no measures have been taken to eliminate the most common problems. On the contrary, engineers complicated the design by adding additional elements. On the other hand, the Lada Granta clutch is inexpensive to maintain, and you can buy all the necessary spare parts in every car store. Any car owner can replace the Lada Granta clutch with his own hands. Availability and simplicity of design remain AvtoVAZ’s priorities, although quality is not in first place.

The mileage is almost 45 tons. The pedal has become somewhat stiff, and I want to change the clutch for maintenance... Who can advise me... I can pull the Veleo in principle, but where can I buy an original xs. In short, I need something in between for the price of reliability and softness.

Price: 3,500 ₽ Mileage: 44,800 km

Traditional first aid methods

If suddenly during a trip you discover that the pedal has treacherously failed and there is no longer any hope that the car will last until the planned trip to the car service center, you need to know 3 possible options for further action.

The first is to ask a friend to hold out the frozen car in tow, the second is to call a tow truck. But what to do if your friends are far away and there is no tow truck? In this case, there is a 3rd option: try to restore the clutch yourself so that it works until you get to the service station.

The driver is required to do the following:

• turn off the engine;
• use the lever to set first gear;
• simultaneously with turning the ignition key and starting the engine, press the pedal.

Here we go. Slowly? Of course, but don't even count on 2nd gear. If you try to switch, the gearbox will instantly fail, and its repair will cost a lot.

The Lada Kalina car gained well-deserved popularity among the people, which only strengthened over time, because this car showed truly high performance characteristics with minimal maintenance costs.

The video shows a detailed process of replacing the clutch on a Lada Kalina:

However, as with any other car, there are some components that require mandatory replacement after a certain mileage. Such components include the clutch, without which every car simply cannot exist.

In the process of replacing the clutch

Replacing the clutch on a Lada Kalina yourself is quite difficult, although it is doable. Below, in our article, we will describe in detail how to carry out such work from beginning to end without making mistakes.

Types of clutch on Kalina

, 1118

and
1119
two different types of clutch are installed at 190 and 220 millimeters. Determining your diameter is very simple, just pay attention to the number of starter mounting bolts. At 190 mm there are 3 of them, and at 200 mm there are 2. Regardless of the manufacturer, in the assembly you will almost always find the clutch disc itself, the basket and the release bearing.

If problems with the clutch occur on the road, then it is necessary to tow the car with a tow truck, since further movement may damage the gearbox.

Preparatory work

It is no secret that clutch replacement work involves dismantling the gearbox, therefore, it is necessary to take care in advance of the presence of an inspection hole or overpass. We will also need the following tools and materials:

• New clutch kit.
• Set with tools.
• Hex key.
• Jack.
• Rags.
• Screwdriver.
• Container for draining oil.
• (if necessary).
• Lamp for illuminating hard-to-reach places.