The speed drops after releasing the gas on a VAZ 2114: what's the matter?

After warming up the car, error 2115: rich mixture and with a sharp release of gas, a deep drop in speed.

The idle speed does not drop, Samara 2 – 2 answers
Error code 0340 in VAZ 2115 – 4 answers
Dips at idle, VAZ 2115 – 4 answers
The VAZ 2115 check light is constantly on - 4 answers
Error on the instrument panel of VAZ 2114 - 3 answers

And the throttle assembly in the sink.

I wrote to you about the throttle position sensor, and not about what you listed. And bad gasoline also cannot be ruled out, but your engine runs smoothly and there are no jerks during acceleration or is that not so? A week ago I changed the air flow sensor with the same symptoms. But at first there were failures, after replacement a rich mixture was added to the failures (the Volt sensor was available), I installed the old one again, went and bought a new one and replaced it. I'm enjoying it.

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The idle speed does not drop, Samara 2

If, with a sharp release of gas, the engine speed drops to 400-500 rpm, then most likely the system simply does not have enough air due to a small leakage through the idle speed regulator. In order to get rid of the drop in speed on engines with a mechanical throttle, you need to tighten the throttle adjusting screw. On VAZ cars this screw is marked under the letter “B” and is usually painted over from the factory:

To fix the problem, it is necessary that the throttle valve be opened a little more when the gas pedal is not pressed. To do this, the screw should be turned clockwise. Using the method of test runs of the engine, determine the optimal position of this screw until the dips go away.

How to get rid of problems caused by a drop in speed

A failure in the engine during significant acceleration can occur for various reasons - this has already been dealt with. These reasons vary depending on what type of engine is installed in the car: carburetor or injection. Accordingly, methods for troubleshooting also vary. We have to deal with this now.

Checking the carburetor system

Initially, the operation of the fuel system is checked to see how smoothly and correctly it works. Every working unit and detail matters. Air leaks are checked, fuel lines are examined and the fuel pump is diagnosed. All blockages and deposits are removed.

If the diagnostics do not reveal any problems, then the carburetor may cause a failure in the engine when the gas pedal is pressed. This part is responsible for supplying fuel. During normal operation of the carburetor, fuel is supplied without interruption, constantly and evenly.

To identify and eliminate the cause of the problem, you must proceed as follows:

We exclude air leaks, which may occur due to a loose fastening on the exhaust manifold.
We study the condition of the mesh-type filter, which is located in the area where the pipe from the fuel pump connects.
We dismantle the EPH valve and the sealing ring and examine their condition. If the EPHH is working properly, then when you connect one side of the wire to the terminal, and the opposite end to the positive terminal of the battery, a clicking sound will be heard.
Check the liquid level in the float chamber. To do this, start the engine, leave it to run for a while, remove the top carburetor cover and filter housing. Now let's evaluate the fuel level. In normal condition, it should be in the middle of the inclined wall.
The dosing system may become clogged and this is a common problem. To eliminate it, you will need to remove the top part of the dispenser and the jets. We look for blockages and remove them using wooden parts. Emulsion tubes, which are often forgotten, also need inspection and maintenance.
Special products are used to clean the carburetor channels.

Drop in speed on injection models

In the case of injection cars, when failures occur in the engine, the fuel supply system is first checked to see how well this system works

What you need to pay priority attention to:

Is there a blockage on the fine filter?
The fuel pump operates stably.
Clean filter mesh on the intake.
Is the fuel rail pressure normal? The norm for this indicator starts from 2.8 and reaches 3.2 Bar.
The sensors that regulate the formation and supply of the fuel mixture are functioning normally.
How many errors have accumulated in the ECU?
The throttle valve has collected debris.
Injectors can cause failures in the operation of an injection engine when you press the gas pedal. We definitely check their functionality.

To carry out a complete diagnosis with your own hands, you need a multimeter and a pressure gauge. Some working components (injectors, throttle valve, ECU) can only be checked by specialists. If the cause has not been identified, then you need to check the ignition system

First of all, pay attention to the spark plugs. Then the wiring, main operating components and the installation itself are checked

Do not delay in solving the problem. It will not go away on its own, the situation will only get worse. Ultimately, more serious problems with the vehicle may arise that will take longer and be more expensive to fix. Moreover, the risk of accidents increases significantly. But you cannot skimp on safety; not only your life is at risk, but also that of other road users.

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TPDZ

Another likely sign is TPS. This is especially true if your car is equipped with so-called “e-gas”. This technology has been used in cars since 2010. When the throttle is fully computer controlled, the influence of TPS on machine performance increases.

A faulty DPS may incorrectly regulate the supply of the fuel mixture, as a result of which the mixture becomes excessively lean or, conversely, excessively rich. Neither option contributes to stable engine operation.

Purpose of the pxx controller

We consider this problem to be less likely because it is almost always associated with a Check Engine Light. And since you didn't include it in your list of symptoms, it may not exist. Therefore, it is recommended to start testing this case after abandoning the first two options.

Information on how to check TPS can also be obtained from us.

We wish you good luck in repairing your car!

Fuel quality

The use of high-quality gasoline or diesel fuel is the key to long-term engine life and obtaining maximum power indicators from it. But none of the drivers is completely immune from refueling with low-quality fuel, the use of which threatens not only a significant reduction in power indicators, but also the inability to start the engine. Regular use of low-quality gasoline manifests itself in intensive formation of carbon deposits on the cylinders, pistons, catalyst and exhaust manifold, as well as increased wear of the cylinder-piston group.

Fuel pump strainer is clogged

Considering the quality of fuel supplied to our market, you can often encounter a similar problem. If you have checked everything listed above, but still have not figured out the problem, it is better to immediately go to the nearest auto parts store and purchase a new mesh there. The issue price is about 70 rubles.

Then, under the rear seats, we find the hatch and unscrew it, gaining access to the gas tank. We disconnect all the tubes and remove the fuel pump mount and remove the entire mechanism from the tank. A mesh will be attached to the supply to the fuel pump, remove it and install a new one. Afterwards we collect everything back into the gas tank.

On diesel

Some of the reasons for power loss listed above are also relevant for diesel engines. But there are also a number of specific points associated with diesel engines that should be mentioned. One of the most common causes of power loss in a diesel engine is the failure of the turbocharger. When this unit fails, it usually begins to emit a characteristic whistle, which is difficult to confuse with something else. But in order to accurately determine the breakdown, you will have to send the car to a car service center. There they will scan it and identify the problem. Why might the turbo turn off? Here are some options.

The charge air pressure sensor has failed.
The turbine has simply exhausted its factory life.
The tightness of the joint between the compressor and the motor is broken.
The air path is clogged.
The turbocharger axis has become coked, causing its rotation to slow down.
The turbocharger shut-off valve has failed.

A characteristic external sign of a compressor failure is blue smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe.

It occurs due to the combustion of oil, the excess of which enters the combustion chambers of the cylinders due to leaks in the compressor. If the tightness of the compressor discharge line is broken, air leaks occur and the mixture becomes too rich. When it burns, not blue smoke comes out of the chimney, but black smoke. Finally, white smoke indicates that the oil line through which oil is drained from the compressor is clogged.

Other reasons

Sometimes the engine may shut down due to a stuck idle air valve.
Solving this problem is quite simple - you only need to adjust the throttle cable. True, the car’s performance will not be restored for a long time. But there will be enough time to get to the car service center. If the car does not start when cold, then it is worth looking for a fault in the battery. Perhaps one of the terminals is not holding well. It is also worth resetting the ECU settings by turning off the power. After this, the on-board computer will reboot. This measure will be enough for several trips - then the system will accumulate enough information to start working normally, and the engine will most likely stall again.

Finally, if none of the above helps, you will need to pay attention to the injectors. Improper operation of this element is caused by:

For cleaning, you should use a special liquid - WD-40.

Why does the VAZ 2114's speed drop sharply and the car stalls?

VAZ 2114, mileage 48 thousand, dv. 1.6. In the morning the car starts perfectly, but if you press the gas sharply when cold, the revs are sharp

drop to the point that the car stalls, even if the car is warmed up, and does not stall when pressed, I start to move away and when driving, if I turn off the speed, it also stalls.. I wait for a few seconds and with the gas pedal it starts immediately. or I just start it while driving, then when I drive for a little while the engine warms up thoroughly, everything stops. I tried to immediately warm it up to 60-80% in the morning and as soon as I started moving, everything repeated. When you turn off the speed, the speed drops sharply and the car stalls. I changed the fuel pump and filter, still the same...

I had this happen, try disconnecting the air flow sensor with the car running, if nothing changes, then it’s it

I had this happen, but the engine power supply system was carburetor and after changing the gas station everything went away on its own, but you most likely have an injector.

As an option, change the gas station; if this does not help, then read on.

Look at the spark plugs, you can see from them what mixture is supplied to the engine; if they are heavily smoked or, on the contrary, have a white coating, then the mixture is incorrect (in the first case, too rich, in the second, too lean). Then check the injectors.

It wouldn’t hurt to connect to the BC and read the errors (if any), the BC can switch the engine operation to “emergency mode”, they say we work anyhow, just to get to the garage/service station.

There can be a lot of reasons.

Here are some problems that you can solve (fix) yourself:

Bad fuel (poor quality).

The fuel is good, but you “find yourself” at a gas station where a fuel truck dumps gasoline into the tanks of the gas station, just make it a habit, you see a fuel truck, don’t refuel at the gas station right away, “suspension” will rise in the tanks and you pour this “mash” into your tank, it gets clogged and fuel filter and injector.

I've encountered this a couple of times, the filter can be washed (blown out), the injector can be cleaned with liquid for cleaning injectors.

These problems with fuel have exactly the same effect on the car; the car suddenly stalls.

When releasing the gas, the speed is increased or “freezes”: common malfunctions

Let's start with the fact that on many cars with an injector, the ECU raises the speed while the internal combustion engine is warming up. This is necessary to ensure that the power unit operates stably after a cold start.

However, after the temperature rises, the control unit reduces the idle speed, bringing it to normal. On many cars with a carburetor, the driver independently increases the speed during warm-up, using the so-called “choke”.

Moreover, after the engine is warmed up, the normal idle speed is, on average, 650-950 rpm. If you press the gas and release the accelerator, the speed should increase, and then decrease again to the specified values.

Also, a situation often arises when the speed drops slowly or is constantly kept at around 1.5 thousand rpm, 2 thousand revolutions, etc. Naturally, in such cases, consumption increases and the internal combustion engine wears out more, which indicates the need for diagnostics.

So, let's start with common carburetor problems. Often the engine speed does not drop due to problems with the throttle valve. For example, when the driver steps on the gas, the throttle must be opened wider to allow more air to enter the cylinders to burn fuel. After the gas pedal is released, the throttle closes and the speed decreases.

If the damper does not close completely, an over-enriched mixture enters the cylinders, and the speed is increased. The cause may be severe contamination of the throttle assembly or damage to the valve itself (deformation). First you need to clean the damper; carburetor cleaning liquid is suitable as a cleaner.

We also note that the damper does not close tightly even when the drive cable is worn out. In this case, the cable must be replaced. On carburetor cars, engine speed often does not drop even if the gasket between the carburetor and the cylinder head has failed. The culprit may also be an intake manifold that is damaged.

It should be noted that after cleaning the carburetor and fuel system, the engine speed slowly drops due to a failure in the adjustments of the idle system itself. In other words, after any manipulations with these components, the carburetor should be separately configured and adjusted.

The main task is to find the correct ratio of fuel and air. Often, a high level of fuel in the carburetor float chamber also leads to increased speed. The check should begin with the needle valve.

Now let's move on to the injector

Please note that on many injection cars, after cleaning the throttle valve, the assembly also needs to be additionally “trained”. As for problems, the injection system itself is more complex, that is, there are more reasons for high speeds compared to a carburetor

As a rule, problems with speed can be caused by problems with both mechanical elements and electronic components. In the list of main malfunctions, experts highlight malfunctions of the coolant temperature sensor, which is installed in the cooling system.

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In simple words, if the specified sensor gives an incorrect signal, the ECU considers that the engine is cold and activates the warm-up mode. In this case, the control unit raises the speed so that the power unit operates stably and reaches operating temperature faster.

Also, problems with speed can begin due to problems and malfunctions in the operation of the IAC (idle air regulator). It also happens that the throttle cable gets stuck and becomes wedged. The spring that closes the throttle valve may also become stretched or damaged.

Special attention should be paid to gaskets, since air leaks can lead to disruption of mixture formation. This means that you need to separately inspect manifold gaskets, injector seals, etc.

Principle of operation

When the ignition is turned on, the on-board computer begins checking the system. You may hear the fuel pump start and all the warning lights on the instrument panel illuminate. At the same time, the idle air control completely closes the air duct, and the control unit calculates the number of steps required and removes the needle, opening the air duct slightly at the desired position.

The distance from the air duct may vary and depends on the parameter: hot or cold engine. For example, heating requires a rich mixture, which means that the needle is extended as far as possible, but to operate a hot engine, the mixture is lean, that is, the regulator removes the lead screw, increasing the supply of air to the air.

How to fix

It is better to immediately contact specialists at a car service center. This is what all owners usually say, who are not accustomed to doing their own repairs, do not show any initiative, and expect others to do everything for them. Yes, this is a good aspiration, but we warn you that today quite a lot of dubious auto repair shops are opening in the country, where it is unclear who works without the proper qualifications. Entrusting the work to an amateur is like signing a machine's death warrant.

This is not the only reason why a car owner decides to repair it himself. Sooner or later, every experienced motorist should be able to tune the operation of the “iron horse” so that it is always in shape.

So, the reasons for the failure of an injection engine are hidden in various factors

For example, here you need to switch attention from purely mechanical breakdowns to electronic ones. We are talking about the functions of electronics, its control of the injection system

To more specifically determine the cause, it is necessary to identify the type of failure. For example, in carburetor engines, the most common type of failure is a momentary lack of thrust, followed by a sudden jerk. This failure is explained by clogging of the carburetor or jets, failure of spark plugs, etc. An injection engine is characterized by twitching or rocking when a series of prolonged failures occurs.

Learn more about types of failures.

Type of failure	What's happening
Short term failures	The engine does not respond to pressure for 2-3 seconds.
Long or prolonged dips	The power plant loses speed for 4-10 seconds, which is enough for a complete stop.
Jerks	Very short-term dips, lasting 1-2 seconds.
Twitching	A series of short-term dips, causing the car to either gain speed or slow down at the same position of the gas pedal.
Rocking up	A series of prolonged dips, acts like a twitch, but the time to gain speed and reset it is above 4 seconds.

Owners of injection cars have noticed another type of failure, when it is when driving at medium and high speeds that an attempt to accelerate leads to the front end of the car pecking. The feeling is that you are sitting behind the wheel of a carburetor car with clogged jets.

In general, it should be understood that a disruption in the operation of the system leads to a change in the proportions of fuel assemblies. An excessively lean or enriched fuel assembly negatively affects the power plant; it is not able to increase speed when needed.

Thus, we can conclude that the first reason for the occurrence of failures on the injector is the pressure drop on the ramp. As you know, a parameter of 3 Bar is considered normal for an injection system. To eliminate failures (if the cause is pressure), you need to measure the pressure and compare the values with the standard ones. If the indicators are very different, then find the reason. It is possible that there is an air leak in the system or the injector is faulty.

Another reason may be the operation of sensors involved in the process of mixture formation. The sensors are responsible for the supply of fuel and air and regulate the crankshaft speed. To check all these details, it is enough to use standard instruments. They will make it possible to first test the pressure in the ramp, and then the condition of the sensors themselves. As for the general inspection of injectors, this is done using special equipment.

If the diagnosis of the reasons causing the failures yields nothing, you should definitely check the ignition system.

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VISITING A CAR SERVICE

In a situation where you specifically do not have enough experience in car maintenance, there is a fairly high probability of aggravating the problem by unqualified intervention in the operation of various on-board systems.

It is important to objectively assess your own capabilities, and if you don’t have faith in yourself, then it is better to entrust the repairs to specialists. In a situation where it turns out that the problem is not particularly serious, they will not take much money from you. But in any case, you will be able to avoid many of the troubles associated with unqualified attempts to repair the vehicle.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply submitting your question in the form below.

Causes of failures when pressing the gas pedal

Let's look at the main reasons:

Spark plugs and high-voltage wires;
Clogged fuel injectors;
The throttle valve is dirty;
The ignition is set incorrectly;
Errors in the ECU;
The air filter is clogged;
Problems with the fuel pump.

Often, failures occur due to a breakdown of the power system. After pressing the gas pedal, the power system increases the volume of fuel supplied to the cylinders. Breakage causes a change in these proportions. Those. The motor just can't do its job.

In addition, it is possible that there may be a breakdown in the ignition system. It occurs much less frequently. It's either spark plugs or ignition wires. The spark plugs must be removed and checked. The presence of carbon deposits or too clean spark plugs indicate a rich or lean fuel mixture, respectively. This indicates that the ignition system is adjusted incorrectly.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal during acceleration

It is determined both using computer diagnostics and by the steps described below (some of the points below can be performed independently, but specialists in car services in Moscow will be able to determine the problem area more quickly and accurately):

The first thing you need to do is inspect the spark plugs. To do this you need to remove them. The presence of carbon deposits on the spark plugs, poor contact with the wires, or an excessively lean or rich mixture lead to spark plug malfunctions.
High voltage wires can also cause engine malfunction, as can ignition coils.
The throttle needs to be checked. If it is clogged, this causes the engine to respond untimely when pressing the gas pedal.
It is necessary to check the condition of the air, fuel and oil filters. They tend to get clogged, which worsens dynamics, increases fuel consumption and causes pedal failure. They need to be changed constantly, you can do it yourself, they are inexpensive and easy to install.
The presence of errors in the ECU leads to failures.
Clogged injectors. If necessary, replace or repair injectors.

The wires, as well as the rubber bands on them, should not be damaged and should not spark when the engine is running. If damage is found, this indicates that the engine is shaking and jerking begins. This may occur due to the age of the car, worn-out or low-quality spare parts, poor contact with the spark plugs, or due to the temperature of the engine.

The resistance of the coils and the temperature change together, as a result of which a gasoline car begins to jerk during acceleration. In diesel cars, jerking cannot be associated with the coils, since they are not present.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal at idle

Problems also occur at idle speed; of course, there will be fewer reasons. However, this is also a serious problem and cannot be ignored, because... The car will have difficulty starting and simply stall.

Troubleshooting is performed in the following order:

The first thing to check is the spark plugs. If the spark plugs are faulty, they should be replaced. We recommend replacing all spark plugs at the same time. Buy spark plugs specifically for your engine. If necessary, adjust the gap; it should be 1 mm for 92 gasoline.
The fuel filter and fuel pump diagnostics are checked. If a malfunction is identified, fix it.
The breakdown may be in the idle speed sensor.
Checking the injectors. If clogged, replacement or cleaning is necessary.
Diagnostics of the ECU for errors.
Checking the injector.

How to find the cause of the problem

If the speed of the VAZ 2114 drops, you need to comprehensively diagnose the functioning of the injection system on your car, which can be done in your garage if you have a little experience and appropriate instructions. In this case, those “fourteeners” that were equipped from the factory with a dashboard from the German manufacturer VDO have an important advantage, since it, in comparison with the analogue from Schetmash, is equipped with a self-diagnosis mode.

VDO dashboard for VAZ 2114

To carry out this procedure, you will need to perform a few simple steps:

After turning off the engine, you need to keep the odometer button pressed for three to five seconds;
Having turned the engine ignition to the first position, the button must be released;
arrows should appear on the display, which is a signal of normal operation, then the button must be pressed the first time (displaying the firmware version) and the second time - after this probable errors in the ECU will be shown;
To reset the error message, you will need to hold the button until a zero appears on the display.

Self-diagnosis of VAZ 2114

After reading the manual, you can find out what errors shown on the screen may be associated with the fact that the speed constantly drops when the gas is released on the VAZ 2114.

So, it could be one of the following situations:

code 1 – controller error;
code 14/15 – coolant sensor error;
code 22/23 – throttle position sensor error;
code 33/34 – mass air flow sensor error;
code 42 – faulty ignition;
code 44 – fuel mixture is lean or too rich.

The owner of a VAZ 2114 should remember a specific feature of the self-diagnosis mode on his car: if there are several errors, the computer sums their codes arithmetically, which can be misleading. This can be indicated by a logical discrepancy between the displayed code and the actual problems.

To be completely sure, you will either need to take the car to a service center and pay for its inspection, or buy a diagnostic scanner yourself, which is not that expensive. Another option is if you have the same VAZ model (fully operational), one by one, remove it from it and install potentially vulnerable sensors on your car, using the method of elimination to find the problem.

Physical aspect of occurrence

It is a mistake to think that the problem is sudden. It all starts with short sharp decreases in engine power, lasting no more than 3 seconds. If the driver does not take any response measures, the duration of the dips increases to 10 seconds. The result of the development of a technical malfunction is a series of jerks or failures. After this, the car will have to be left at the service station for a long time.

Regardless of the age of the vehicle, the causes of failure are the following: clogging of the fuel system due to the use of low-quality fuel or lubricants, breakdown of the ignition system, engine malfunction, breakdown of the carburetor or its individual part.

From a technical point of view, a decrease in the dynamic characteristics of the engine due to failure occurs when the fuel mixture is too or insufficiently enriched. As soon as it appears in the engine cylinders at the moment you press the gas pedal, the heart of the car experiences increased loads. The following signs will tell the driver about this:

Minimum dip - duration ranges from 1 to 2 seconds. It occurs even when you gently press the gas pedal or when you start moving. In the future, acceleration and maintaining high speeds occurs without problems. The reason lies in the accelerator pump of the carburetor or in the first chamber of the transition system.
A series of slight jerks - the vehicle jerks several times when the gas pedal is pressed, with or without a subsequent stop. Most often the problem occurs at low and medium speeds. As soon as the driver presses the gas pedal hard, the problem disappears. This can be caused by oxygen leakage from the carburetor, a critical decrease in the fuel level in the float chamber, or clogged emulsion channels or fuel nozzle.
A series of dips, or rocking, is when the driver notices unstable engine operation under increased and decreased loads. A malfunction occurs due to incomplete opening of the throttle valve in chamber II, a failure of the fuel supply cycle to the carburetor, clogging of the fuel channels or nozzle, or less often due to the ingestion of air by the carburetor.

Why are the revs dropping?

Cases in which dips appear when you sharply press the gas are represented by incorrect operation of components in the car's power systems. Most problems occur on cars with carburetors. But even on injection models such cases are not excluded.

If there is a drop in speed when pressing the pedal vigorously, you need to inspect the accelerator pump. Most likely it is faulty. It is possible that the liquid content in the fuel level stabilization chamber has decreased. The problem manifests itself at the beginning of movement, at zero load, and when driving with a change of speed.

How to fix:

Requires monitoring of the fuel supply system in the carburetor

Pay attention to the following components - atomizer, channels, inspect the valves, diaphragm. The filter element located at the inlet is checked. The appearance of dirt and blockages interferes with the flow of fuel, which is accompanied by a drop in the level in the stabilization chamber

After cleaning the filter, you can resume system operation. If there are blockages, it is recommended to pay attention to the fuel pump filter, fine filter and the filter element on the fuel intake in the tank.

Reasons for constant failures

While operating a car, it is easy to detect other signs and reasons why failure occurs when you press the gas pedal.

Common situations:

Short-term jerks that appear under moderate load, when the car starts moving or at idle. The reason is related to the 1st chamber, where the outlet holes become clogged; problems with the accelerator pump are possible.
Longer breaks, sometimes combined or turning into twitching. Noticeable when lightly accelerating, when the car is traveling at low or medium speed. If the signs disappear with active gas operation, it means there is a problem with the nozzle - it is clogged or not fully closed. It is possible that the elements of the dosing system may become clogged. You should be wary of a mismatch in the markings of the fuel nozzle, the possibility of air masses entering from the outside, or a drop in the amount of fuel in the float chamber.
If, when you press the gas pedal, the drop in speed becomes regular, there is instability at zero load, swaying, signs indicate problems with the jet, CXX, EPH channels.
Lack of response under heavy loads, when operation is noted with open throttle valves of the 1st and 2nd chambers. All this is accompanied by a drop in potential and pickup capacity. Such problems occur due to incorrect operation of the ecostat, problems with fuel due to interruptions, or clogging of gasoline supply units. There is a high probability of problems with the power mode economizer.

The functionality of the accelerator pump requires increased attention in most situations, because it is indispensable in the operation of the carburetor and power unit in all modes, in addition to idling.

Finding a breakdown without using the on-board controller

External “symptoms” of the behavior of a car and, in particular, its engine can also give a lot of food for thought to an experienced and observant driver. By analyzing these factors, you can significantly reduce the list of probable causes of the problem.

For example, it is necessary to track the moment the engine randomly turns off - at idle, during a “cold” start, after the engine has warmed up to a specific temperature, or when the gas pedal is sharply pressed.

In addition, you should pay attention to whether the speed drops with constant throttle application, and how the engine behaves when braking, releasing the gas pedal and turning off the gear?

Along with visual and auditory diagnostics, it would be useful to check in a circle potentially vulnerable components that could lead to the VAZ 2114 stalling when releasing the gas.

Firstly, you should start by checking the fuel and air filters - it is recommended to change them every 30 thousand kilometers, but in fact, operating conditions and the quality of the filters lead to the fact that in order to avoid problems it is better to halve this period (especially since in cars with With longer mileage, filters become clogged even faster).

In addition, you definitely need to check the fuel level in the tank, no matter how funny it may sound: the fuel level sensor often deceives the driver, and in addition, the car may simply be parked on a slope, which is why the fuel pump simply does not supply fuel to the engine - hence reason for the drop in speed.

A very common situation is the appearance of problems with ignition or maintaining speed after minor independent repairs: in this case, you need to check all the chips, contacts, terminals and wiring again to eliminate the usual human factor.

Air flow sensor

If the IAC is found to be in good condition, the airflow sensor should be checked. To do this, you will also need a multimeter set to voltage measurement mode (in the range of up to 20 volts).

Measurements are made as follows:

turn off the engine and turn on the ignition;
measure the voltage at the sockets used to connect the yellow and green wires;
if the voltage value is between 0.98 and 1.02 volts, the sensor is working correctly. If not, action needs to be taken.

DMRV VAZ 2114 First, you can try to clean the sensor by blowing it with a carburetor cleaning compound (in the form of an aerosol), although this does not always help. If, after purging, the voltage readings return to normal, the “repair” was successful, otherwise the sensor will have to be replaced with a similar new one.

Air leak in the intake manifold

Another reason why the engine does not develop speed may be a banal air leak in the intake manifold of the power unit. Symptoms of such a malfunction are difficulty starting the engine, its “triple”, problems with idling, increased fuel consumption and, of course, loss of speed. This all happens due to a sharp depletion of the mixture due to unaccounted air entering the combustion chambers.

Most often, system depressurization occurs due to wear of the intake manifold gasket. It is quite difficult to determine that an injection engine does not develop speed precisely because of air leaks, just as it is not easy to find the place of depressurization itself. It is better to entrust this to specialists. But there are some things you can try to do yourself. You can, for example, take a syringe with a needle, fill it with gasoline (or solarium for diesel units) and treat the perimeter of the junction of the manifold with the engine with fuel. If the gasket between them has become unusable, then gasoline will be sucked into the combustion chambers along with the air. If, after starting the engine, you notice positive changes in its operation, you can be sure that the reason lies precisely in the suction.

Floating speed

In addition to slowly falling revs, car enthusiasts may encounter a phenomenon called floating revs, when they drop and then rise sharply. The reason is excessive air supply into the system, which causes the engine to spin up to 2 thousand revolutions at idle.

This often happens in cars that have a fuel injection sensor. It calculates how much air the mixture needs. When its operation is disrupted, different amounts of oxygen are supplied at different times, as a result, speed jumps are observed approximately every 3 seconds.

Faced with a similar phenomenon, the same computer diagnostics will be a prerequisite

It is very important that this and all subsequent work is carried out by experienced, qualified specialists. By contacting a service that does not specialize in breakdowns of this kind, you may be faced with the need to carry out expensive engine overhauls ahead of time.

Why does a hot engine stall at idle speed injector VAZ 2115

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We have: 2112, 47 thousand km, engine. 1.5 16 cl, just changed the oil, spark plugs (NLC 12). It starts with half a turn and when the engine is cold it runs almost normally, only the speed fluctuates. As soon as the temperature reaches the operating level, the engine is mercilessly turned off - and only at idle. Here, come on, we squeeze the clutch in front of the headlights, let off the gas - and it locks

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Dips and uneven engine operation on the VAZ-2114

#1 St4n

Garage workers

2531 messages

Yesterday my combat VAZ decided to scare me - when driving around the city, the engine suddenly began to run unevenly. It was idling, when you pressed the gas, the vibration intensified, the car drove very poorly, did not pull, when you pressed the gas pedal, it first “failed”, and then barely drove, sneezing and farting. Moreover, the vibrations gradually became stronger, and the engine worked worse and worse - when I stopped at a traffic light, the car was already pounding, and the sound of the engine was similar to the “droning” of a Subaru Impreza.

At a traffic light, I turned off the engine and started it again - it got better, the engine started working more equally, but over time it also slowly gave out. I reached the parking lot and opened the hood - checked the level and condition of the oil, pulled the high-voltage wires - everything seemed to be normal. Five minutes later I started the car - it works fine, pulls normally, drives as if nothing had happened. I calmly went about my business, and then drove home - with the throttle evenly open (60 km/h), the car twitched a couple of times, as if there was something wrong with the fuel supply. However, I got home fine.

I started it this morning and it works great again, as if nothing had happened. I calmly drove to the auto shop (12 km) and back, without a hint of uneven operation (but subjectively, when you press the gas pedal sharply, you seem to feel a slight dip before picking up speed).

I also remembered that some time ago (a month, maybe) it happened a couple of times that the car would stall when releasing the gas and pressing the clutch (when approaching an intersection or crossing). It stalled - I started it with half a kick, then it drove normally, I forgot about it and gave up.

I think that the problem is somewhere in the throttle assembly - IAC, MAF, TPS, I will check first (although it turns out that the nodes seem to work, only periodically giving out malfunctions).

The car is 2008, mileage 82 thousand kilometers, engine from Kalina 1.6 with 8 bugs.

What else could be the reason? I ask for advice, share your experience.

A trip to the workshop

As you can see, everything described above can be done by a person who knows the structure of the car, but there is nothing for a beginner, because not every novice car enthusiast knows where the XX valve is located, much less its sensor. There is a high probability that outside interference will only make everything worse, or will break or spoil something that was originally in working order. So here it’s worth setting priorities and logically assessing your chances of correcting all problems yourself.

Naturally, in moments when the car stalls when releasing the gas, few people are interested in why this is happening, so it would be very advisable to call a tow truck and tow the car for repairs, or, if the situation is not completely dire, then you can drive to the repair shop yourself .