Many Grants (at least approximately 2012-2015) have such a disease that sometimes (let’s say 1 out of 100 starts) the engine does not start the first time. That is, you either need to apply gas while the starter is running, or wait a few seconds and start it again. In my opinion, Putin’s test copy was also guilty of this. It looks something like this:
This occurs both cold and hot. Closer to the 70K mileage, a problem appeared that the autostart sometimes could not start the car at all (even after several attempts). As a result, I did a little maintenance, which (pah-pah-pah) seemed to solve this problem. I describe the work chronologically, it is possible that the first method already helps. T - time to work, P - price.
1. Cleaning the throttle valve. T=30 min, P=RUB 100 per spray cleaner.
The damper is unscrewed with a hexagon and pliers (if the hexagons fit tightly).
The damper position before cleaning is about 5-6, after cleaning is about 2-3:
2. Replacing the air filter. I change it about once a year, every 15,000 km. T=5 min, P=200 rubles.
3. Valve adjustment. I don’t know if there is a problem with starting the 16-cl. (write in the comments), but for the 8-cl. it is a very useful procedure. I haven’t adjusted them for about 30 thousand (or maybe more, it’s not a fact that they were adjusted at the off-site maintenance), there is an effect. I did it at a service center, the price including the gasket was about 1000 rubles.
4. Replacing spark plugs, I also change them once a year, before winter. T=15 minutes, P=200 rubles.
The cheapest spark plugs are LADA, well, they will cost 250 per set maximum.
5. Switched to TatNeft gasoline. The startup speed certainly doesn’t depend much on gasoline, but gasoline there is cheaper than Bashneft and especially Lukoil. And the car doesn’t feel like it’s losing any momentum in terms of dynamics.
That is, spending 500 - 1500 rubles may well solve the problem with launches on Grant, or at least make difficult launches less frequent.
Price tag: 1,500 ₽ Mileage: 69,000 km
Starts and stalls when cold
The engine stalls when cold in most cases for one of five reasons. This happens when the fuel pump is malfunctioning, the air supply is incorrect, the IAC rod is not moving properly, the fuel is bad, and the sensors are malfunctioning. It will help you identify the problem..
- Why does the engine start and stall when cold?
- Main reasons
- More rare reasons why the engine stalls during a cold start
- Factors affecting normal engine operation
- 1. The required amount of fuel is not supplied
- Starts when cold and immediately dies
- Some tips for a carburetor engine
- The main reason
- When cold, the VAZ 2114 engine starts and immediately stalls
- 2. Incorrect operation of the exhaust system
- Diagnostics
- Diagnosis of IAC
- Injector malfunction
- DIAGNOSTICS FOR HEARING AND EYE
- save help
- Failure Traits
- Fuel sensor failure
- Complete sabotage
- 3. Malfunction of the fuel and air mixing system
- What to do if the battery “dies”?
- Fuel system malfunction
- Causes
- How to start a car from a tow
- Starts and stalls immediately when cold
- Starts and stalls immediately when cold
- The timing marks on the VAZ are not set correctly
- Checking the crankshaft sensor VAZ 2114
Does a cold engine start on the 2nd try? It's decided!
Glad to welcome everyone!
This post will be sooooo long, sooooo boring and almost without photos. Therefore, many may not be interested in it. I just wanted to share my experience on this issue with you. Perhaps this post will even help someone. Go! Actually, the crux of the problem is in the name. It manifested itself like this: I go out in the morning, start it, the engine, as usual, immediately seizes, runs for 2-3 seconds and then suddenly stalls. There were absolutely no errors in the BC. I am attaching a roughly similar video of how this happened:
Only in my case, on the second attempt, the engine ALWAYS started 100% of the time and then worked as if nothing had happened. By the way, a manipulation like turning on the fuel pump several times and only then starting it didn’t help at all.
So, this problem first appeared a couple of years ago. Somehow, at first I wasn’t too focused on this; due to my inexperience, I was guilty of bad gasoline, clogged fuel and air filters, spark plugs, etc. And now the time has come to replace it all. I change it, start it... Everything is the same, absolutely nothing has changed!
I didn’t look further for the reason, I just scored.
After some time the problem disappeared. At first I was happy. But the happiness did not last long... Six months later everything came back again. I began to observe under what conditions this manifests itself. It turned out the following:
1.
At street temperatures of +20 and above, the problem practically did not appear
2.
At an engine temperature of 40 degrees.
and above - the same. 3.
I noticed one strange pattern: if before starting you crank the crankshaft with the starter several times
without starting it,
then the start occurs perfectly.
As if for the engine to start successfully... How would it be more correct to say... It was necessary to make a little more crankshaft revolutions than usual. 4.
There was another interesting feature: if you let the engine cool down to 10-15 degrees. and try to start it - it starts and doesn’t stall, but for 1-2 minutes it jerks, as if it’s throttling, and the revolutions jump in the range of 600-900.
In general, all this was somehow strange and incomprehensible. Judging by the symptoms, I had 2 main versions of what was happening:
1. The most popular are fuel pressure regulator/fuel filter/fuel pump mesh. 2. The least likely, but still valid assumption is sticking of one or more valves on a cold engine.
I haven’t encountered this myself and generally had a hard time believing it, but in my situation anything could have happened...
So, I started working on the first version. I took out the pump, and the mesh was like new! Not a speck, just a little yellowed. In general, I didn’t even touch her. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, put the module in place, started it... Everything is the same!
Damn! OK!
Thoughts about a sticking valve began to visit me... I thought this way and that, and still came to the conclusion: well, this can’t happen! No way!
The car is 3 years old and has 45 thousand miles, so what the hell are sticking valves? Bullshit!
I sat and thought some more. I started to remember what I had done with the car over the past six months. Replacing oils, filters, spark plugs, alternator belt tension roller, lubricating timing rollers... STOP! I remembered! Well, of course!
While I was looking for this nasty squeak when cold, the first thing I did was remove the timing belt rollers
in order to lubricate them.
The person who suggested this idea to me mentioned in his entry that his intake camshaft was installed incorrectly from the factory - it was shifted one tooth back. For this reason, he had difficulty starting a hot engine. And I thought: what if, after lubricating the rollers, I incorrectly installed the camshafts according to the marks and because of this it doesn’t start well when cold?
It was decided to do the whole procedure again with the correct markings.
But here’s the problem... Aligning the camshafts to the marks is a simple procedure... But how to align the crankshaft to the marks?
Murzilka tells us that there are 2 ways: align the marks on the flywheel through the hatch in the box or align the mark on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the oil pump. But here’s the problem: I have an automatic transmission and there are no hatches in sight. And to get to the crankshaft pulley, you need to unscrew the drive disc, and this is very problematic, especially on a car with an automatic transmission.
But we don’t give up so easily! We Google and find 3 more ways
Set the crankshaft to the TDC position of the 1st cylinder:
1.
Screw in a dial indicator instead of the spark plug of the 1st cylinder and manually turn the crankshaft until we reach the highest position, monitoring the deflection of the needle.
2.
Insert a small rod/twig/stick/oil dipstick, etc. into the cylinder.
and act on the same principle. 3.
Set TDC to the master disk.
Neither I nor my friends have an indicator. Set TDC according to approximate
deflecting a rod/twig/stick/dipstick is not an option at all. But method 3 interested me! The bottom line is that the TDC of the 1st cylinder corresponds to the position of the 20th tooth on the drive disk opposite the DPKV.
Is it realistic to set this position? Yes Easy! We take off the belt, set the crankshaft to the desired position and look at the marks on the camshafts. Hmmm... As I expected, both the intake and exhaust ran a couple of teeth in different directions! We set everything according to the marks, put on the belt, rollers and start it.
The result of all the physical movements made: a cold engine that has been standing all night starts the first time and does not stall! Plus, the consumption at idle decreased from 0.9 to 0.8 l/h. Problem solved!
Thanks to everyone who had the patience to read this writing to the end! Good luck to everyone on the roads and see you again!
Source
What's the result?
As you can see, there are quite a few reasons why the engine starts running and stalls after starting. However, most of them are usually associated with the fuel system, ignition system and electronic control system.
In this case, it is appropriate to talk about low compression in the cylinders due to the fact that the engine has exhausted its service life (the cylinder walls, rings, etc. are worn out), that is, the unit needs major repairs. Compression can be measured at a service station or yourself using a compression meter.
The engine stalls at idle: what to check. Possible causes of malfunction on engines with a carburetor, injector, and diesel power plants.
At idle the speed “floats”: why does this happen? The main malfunctions associated with idle speed on gasoline and diesel engines.
The main reasons why the engine starts to stall after warming up. Frequent problems of carburetor and injection engines, fault diagnosis.
The reasons why, after pressing the gas pedal, dips occur and the engine begins to choke. Gas engine failures when switching from gasoline to gas.
Why the engine may not pick up speed: gasoline engine, diesel unit, car with LPG. Fault diagnosis, useful tips.
Reasons why the engine may stall when you press the brake. The power unit stalls during sudden braking, when the clutch and brake are depressed, etc.
The main reasons for poor cold starting.
Judging by the problem described above, there may be several reasons for the malfunction, and you need to start with the one that you think can be solved most quickly.
The reasons may lie in the following:
- Poor quality gasoline - try changing gas stations.
- Pay attention to the quality of the fuel - there may be a lot of water accumulated in it.
- Check the ignition module for functionality.
- Diagnose spark plugs and high-voltage wires - spark plugs for breakdowns, and wires for cracks; if anything like this is found, then this element should be changed.
Location of spark plugs and protective caps
This is a list of the main reasons why an engine may start poorly when cold.
Service or DIY repair?
Some causes can be diagnosed by yourself, but most of them will require replacement parts. Usually electricians have “guaranteed working” spark plugs, armored wires, and also if they have special ones. equipment (CO emission standards), you can check the operation of the ignition.
In order to solve the problem, contact a specialized car service for diagnostics, or do it yourself if you have a diagnostic cable and suitable software.
Why does the engine suddenly stall?
Among the possible factors that determine the tendency of the engine to stop, if it starts and stalls, the reason may be that the valve in the throttle assembly has become dirty. The problem is resolved by cleaning.
A clogged fuel system filter can also cause the engine to stall. This symptom may manifest itself after a long time from the moment low-quality fuel enters the tank. There is only one solution - draining the substandard gasoline and directly replacing the filter component in the LADA Granta.
The starter turns but does not engage or the engine has stalled and refuses to be started? The generator may have become unusable or its drive belt may have broken unexpectedly. If an unfortunate situation occurs, then the on-board network is not supplied with the required power. The battery takes over “command”, but its charge runs out, and the starter subsequently will not be able to rotate the engine.
If an inattentive owner left the LADA Granta car parked for a long time, forgetting to turn off some pantograph (for example, audio), then starting the engine is out of the question, since the battery will be discharged. You'll have to light it up.
How to start a car in winter?
Moments of a successful winter launch are a separate topic. If the car does not start, you should resort to the following actions. First, turn on the ignition, and then activate the low beam headlights. We wait about 30 seconds and turn off the optical devices. This warms up the battery. But if the car starts and stalls, the reason may be precisely the temperature difference.
We engage neutral gear (if manual transmission) and depress the clutch pedal. Turn the key and listen to the starter. If the launch is unsuccessful, then repeat the procedure again. Failure again? The battery is probably frozen. The solution is to take the battery to a warm room and recharge it or “light it” from another car. Sometimes it makes sense to start it with a tow, but not with an automatic transmission.
The main reasons for poor cold starting.
Judging by the problem described above, there may be several reasons for the malfunction, and you need to start with the one that you think can be solved most quickly.
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Expert on Renault cars I own a Renault Megane 2, before that there were Citroens and Peugeots. I work in the service area of a dealership, so I know the car inside and out. You can always contact me for advice.
The reasons may lie in the following:
- Poor quality gasoline - try changing gas stations.
- Pay attention to the quality of the fuel - there may be a lot of water accumulated in it.
- Check the ignition module for functionality.
- Diagnose spark plugs and high-voltage wires - spark plugs for breakdowns, and wires for cracks; if anything like this is found, then this element should be changed.
Location of spark plugs and protective caps
- Check the oxygen sensor - the mixture may not be rich at startup.
- Malfunction of injectors - it may be that one or more injectors are clogged.
- Problems with the crankshaft sensor (if this sensor is completely damaged, the car will not start).
- Low compression in cylinders.
This is a list of the main reasons why an engine may start poorly when cold.
Service or DIY repair?
Some causes can be diagnosed by yourself, but most of them will require replacement parts. Usually electricians have “guaranteed working” spark plugs, armored wires, and also if they have special ones. equipment (CO emission standards), you can check the operation of the ignition.
In order to solve the problem, contact a specialized car service for diagnostics, or do it yourself if you have a diagnostic cable and suitable software.
Why the car starts and stalls after a few seconds: list of reasons
Unstable engine operation may be due to a lack of fuel in the tank. The gasoline pump grabs the remaining fuel mixed with air or water, the engine jerks and immediately stalls. This also includes refueling with low-quality fuel when the car is acting up a few meters from the gas station you just visited.
The level and condition of the fuel in the fuel tank is where you need to start looking for the cause of the problem. For example, a diesel car may have enough fuel, but in the cold, paraffins may fall out and clog all the elements of the line. And the water that has accumulated in the gas tank may freeze in the gas line.
If the fuel condition is normal, then you will have to examine each of the systems:
timing belt
The gas distribution mechanism (GRM), its basis is a belt that connects the generator, crankshaft pulleys, and camshaft.
Due to weakening of tension, a break, it is impossible to start the Lada Granta engine. Replacing the drive belt is not at all difficult; the task can be done by a car enthusiast without any skills.
It is enough to loosen the generator mounts, move the housing as far as it will go, and remove the belt. Reassemble the structure in reverse order.
What could it be?
Causes
Your car may not start right away or may stall immediately when one or more parts of the system are faulty.
Now let's look at the reasons why the Priora does not start at all. So:
- Check the electrical connections of the ignition coil. They may be weakened or damaged. Replace if necessary;
- It's also worth taking a look at the fuel rail. There may be insufficient pressure;
- there may be problems with the intake tract. Check the catalytic manifold and intake manifold. The connections of these parts may be leaky;
- Perform engine diagnostics. It may be broken;
- oil can freeze in the cold;
- The battery may be low. This can be understood by the rotation of the crankshaft;
- an equally significant reason may be frozen water in the ramp, in which case your fuel system is faulty;
- in the cylinders - low pressure;
- It’s also worth checking the fuel injectors, they should be sealed;
- Possible injector malfunction.
Your favorite car, Lada Priora, may have difficulty starting during frosts, that is, it will start and immediately stall.
There are also a number of reasons that cause this problem:
- large accumulation of water in gasoline. Check this and better change the fuel;
- examine the entire ignition system - from the module to the high-voltage wires;
- look at the oxygen sensor;
- Another common cause is a malfunction of the immobilizer and alarm system. Many people advise solving this problem by reflashing the engine control unit.
Equally important is the constant maintenance of your car.
It may be that the starter turns, but your Priora does not start. What can be done about this?
Signaling
Alarm failures are not uncommon, regardless of the quality and modification of the security system. Both a new security system and one with an impressive “mileage” can block a car’s engine for no reason.
Obviously, without experience, you are not able to turn off the power to the secret police on your own. In such cases, use the workshop service. Any car owner who has already encountered a breakdown knows that they need to disconnect the standard immobilizer. Of course, in cold weather this is quite difficult, but it is possible.
Causes of malfunction on Lada Kalina
View of the parting panel when the car stalled
To understand the reasons why the engine starts and immediately stalls, you need to know a little about the engine design, as well as the operating process. Let's consider the main reasons for this malfunction:
- Fuel does not flow into the combustion chambers or is supplied poorly . This is due to a malfunction in the fuel system.
Fuel system diagram
Spark plugs and high voltage wires
Fuel rail with injectors
All these reasons can cause the power unit to start and then stall.
Engine starts and stalls when cold
In cold weather, especially in winter, the engine starts and stalls for several reasons. This is a common problem for most cars.
First of all, this is due to the fact that an insufficient amount of fuel is supplied to the cylinders, as well as cold air, which does not allow the mixture to ignite normally.
This problem can be treated in two ways:
- We insert the ignition key and turn it to start the gasoline pump, and wait until it stops working. Turn off the ignition (you don’t have to remove the key). Turn the key again and the pump starts again. When it turns off, you can start the car.
We insert the ignition key into the lock, turn it, then turn it off. Turn it on again and start the car
Gasoline pump disassembled for diagnostics
After eliminating all problems, the car should start the first time at any time of the year. It is also recommended to check the condition of the coolant sensor, which may indicate that the car is hot. If it malfunctions, the part should be replaced.
FakeHeader
Comments 45
So it's not about the spark plugs or the throttle or the valves. The jamb is constructive, pumped over from previous models of vases. Since the fuel rail is located in close proximity to the exhaust tract, after trips it heats up due to the heat emanating from the cat or spider, because of this, the gasoline heats up and boils inside the ramp, therefore the pressure in the ramp drops and the car takes a long time to start hot. I personally start it this way: I turn the key to the first position several times 2-3 times, wait until the fuel pump relay clicks, and then I start it 4 times, and what do you think... It starts perfectly...
The throttle position sensor needs to be replaced.
The problem has been known for a long time and there is one more thing, replacing the coolant temperature sensor, which is located in the thermostat, changed the problem, no such problem yet. If you have a question about how a sensor can affect startup, then google it. True, the problem always arose on a warm engine, but on a cold one it always started the first time.
I got this hemorrhoid after installing Denso candles ///
I’ve had it since new and it’s not going anywhere))
What you described does not help, because... I carry out these procedures regularly, but the problem is still present.
This happens to me, but I have nothing to clean since everything is already clean and everything has been changed, but the problem remains.
one of the last ones worth
8bug ones seem to take a long time to turn, at work and at my wife’s it’s the same thing, my 16kl starts with half a kick even with a decrepit battery
Late 2015, mileage 30k, gasoline 95, fall/winter/cold spring — auto start. It never started. The rest of the time with the key, with the clutch depressed. It never started.
At 70K mileage, such garbage appeared that sometimes it could not start from autostart. And at a mileage of 20-30 it happened that the second time it started and the starter turned for a long time (regardless of the temperature)
In my opinion, these are all VAZ genes passed on from generation to generation. This happened on a tag with a mileage of 200,000+ and the same thing is observed on a grant with mileage “recently left the showroom”))
Yes, this fact exists. The solutions described are not a panacea. A design feature that does not depend on service life. But bad spark plugs and gasoline will manifest themselves in any car in one way or another, and replacing the air filter will not at all affect the starting of the car. Over almost 6 years of operation, this defect has not increased or decreased. Didn't adjust the valves 70 t.km. because the clearances were normal (dynamic driving reduces the need for valve adjustment). But literally not long ago, the adjustment of the valves (one was out of order) coincided with the next independent maintenance (replacement of oil, spark plugs, filters), as a result, the starting situation did not change. Your candles don't look very good. Mine are always dry, even after 40 thousand kilometers on one set. And the damper is not the reason, because... Since then, the problem has appeared (and even during dynamic driving this is not required, but it will manifest itself in floating speeds, deterioration in dynamics, etc.). I don’t even dare call it a problem or a defect, rather a feature of this car because... appears extremely rarely.
The required amount of fuel is not supplied
Most likely, the problem lies in the pump, which in the vast majority of cars is located in the fuel tank. This pump either fails or its fine mesh becomes clogged.
- Read about replacing the fuel pump
There may be a lot of debris and water in the fuel tank. The mesh catches and delays all this, acting as a filter. In the warm season, all this debris does not interfere with the normal circulation of fuel; it easily enters the combustion chamber. But in winter there is a different picture. In cold weather, water and debris freeze to the mesh rods, and fuel can no longer pass through the mesh at the required speed. And if you manage to pump a little more to start the engine, then you can’t get it to work! Actually, for this reason the engine stalls. Cleaning the mesh is not difficult - the main thing here is to get to the fuel pump.
It stalls when the engine is cold for the first time - logbook of the 2013 Lada Granta on DRIVE2
It might be useful to someone. The Grant drove for six months without problems, started up in any frost, but then a problem arose. The car started to start 2-3 times in cold weather. Having tracked all the parameters of the internal combustion engine, I still could not find the reason; the car stubbornly refused to start the first time in the morning. Once we left the car alone for 2 weeks, when we needed the car, it turned out that the battery on it was low. I quickly discovered the current leak; it was a Pioneer radio. I solved this problem by connecting the red power wire through the button. So after this the car began to start always the first time in any frost. Then I conducted an experiment to make sure again, and indeed, with a high current leakage, the internal combustion engine starts 2-3 times. The leakage was 0.35A, with the norm being 0.05A. For those who are interested, the replacement is made with a multimeter, connecting it to the gap between the negative terminal of the battery and the ground wire. In this case, you need to take into account that the door is closed (otherwise the light will be on in the cabin) and all consumers are turned off. VAZ cars equipped with TsBKE (central body electronics unit) require a wait of 10 minutes after connecting the multimeter. This is due to the fact that after 10 minutes the CBKE goes into standby mode. Normal leakage should not be higher than 0.05 A; the leakage area can be localized by removing the fuses from the mounting block. This seemingly small thing has been blowing my mind for six months with unsuccessful launches.
"Let's light a cigarette"
This forced start method is very common in the driver's environment. The idea is to temporarily power the starter from the on-board network (battery) of another car.
For successful “lighting”, we acquire cables with the largest cross-section possible. Cars should be placed in friendly positions - with their hoods facing each other. We connect the positive terminals of the batteries of both cars using one wire. We use another cable to connect the negative terminal of someone else’s battery with the ground of the “native” LADA Granta car.
If the startup attempt is unsuccessful, and the car still does not start, we change the circuit. Now we connect the negative terminals of both batteries directly. Be careful to avoid unauthorized short circuits. Having achieved a successful start, do not rush to remove the cables; let the motor run for a few minutes. Remember the disconnection order: remove the negative wire first, and then the positive wire. Do not activate electrical appliances at this time in order to protect them from damage due to a power surge.
