Priora does not develop speed when you press the gas pedal a little harder!

As a rule, during the long-term operation of a vehicle, almost every driver sooner or later notices that the engine does not pull well. In other words, the power unit has difficulty coping with the loads, there is a loss of power, the unit needs to be cranked up to high speeds to maintain the usual pace, the car accelerates worse from a standstill, picks up speed slowly, etc.

At the same time, in many cases the engine runs smoothly, does not tremble, there are no increased vibrations, extraneous sounds, knocking or noise during operation of the internal combustion engine. Let us note right away that there is a fairly wide list of possible reasons why a warm engine does not run, and there is a loss of engine power when cold and/or when hot.

In this article we will talk about why the engine does not pull, and also consider the most common malfunctions that manifest themselves in the form of loss of traction of the power unit.

Priora pulls poorly: we study possible causes of power loss

Lada Priora is a family of cars from the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, which replaced the Lada 110 family of cars. Priora has been significantly improved and finalized. But, as with most domestically produced cars, problems very often arise with it. One of the most common problems is that the car does not pull.

Whether a car pulls or not depends on many factors, most of which relate to the operation of the power plant. Although there is also a possibility of failure of other mechanisms of the Lada Priora.

If the car breaks down and does not move at all, then you can turn to professionals and call a tow truck, for example, https://volok-evakuator.ru/shaxov.php.

If the Priora stalls while driving, there may be the following reasons:

By the way, I recently read a forum, I forgot where - there this problem for Prior was discussed on 78 pages. A little operating advice - I recommend keeping the engine oil level at a medium level, and not at the maximum. The fact that the car stalled while driving did not bother him at all! And in services, garages, etc. Is this so, please advise, you won’t be constantly driving and braking at rpms of more than 2000...

5, started it - and as if nothing had happened, everything is ok! and yesterday, while coasting, it also stalled twice, what should I do, good people? I had this problem, but not on Prior.

Dear user, you have limited rights to publish topics and comments in the forums (banned). Should there be one coil on an eight-valve engine or a different one on a grant? I found somewhere on the net an advice to add two layers of heat-shrinkable tubing to the rubber insulator, it lasted for about a month, “knock on wood” and they don’t fly out.

Loss of traction not related to the engine

If the engine operation does not raise suspicions and the car does not pull, then this indicates a clutch malfunction. Destruction of the clutch plate lining or damage to the springs leads to the fact that the clutch transmits torque from the engine to the gearbox only partially, and clutch slippage occurs.

With such a malfunction, any car, including Priora, pulls very poorly.

It is quite easy to identify this malfunction. When slipping occurs, the driven disk linings overheat greatly and a specific smell appears. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing worn or damaged clutch elements.

Power drop on a VAZ carburetor engine

To begin with, let's take VAZ cars with a carburetor power system and an 8-valve timing system - VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115.

The same power plant is installed on these cars, so the reasons are identical.

Let's go through those components, due to malfunction of which a drop in dynamics may occur.

In general, the main reason that the engine does not pull is a change in the processes in the combustion chambers - a mismatch in the proportions of the air-fuel mixture, the combustion process is disrupted, the filling of the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases does not occur as required.

Supply system

Very often, a drop in traction occurs due to the power system. Structurally, the carburetor fuel system used on cars from VAZ-2109 to VAZ-2115 is very simple and is almost completely mechanical, so identifying the cause is not particularly difficult.

A decrease in power can occur due to:

• Severely clogged fuel filter (its throughput drops and the pump is simply not able to pump the required amount of fuel);
• Contamination of the carburetor channels (the jets and fuel channels in this element have a small cross-section and debris often clogs them);
  Read also:  VAZ 2114: where is the starter fuse, location of the relay
• There is air leakage in the area from the tank to the pump (because of this, the performance of the fuel pump drops sharply);
• Damage to the fuel pump membrane (a small crack in it leads to the fact that the vacuum required for pumping fuel is not created in the pump chambers);
• The fastening of the carburetor or intake manifold is loose (due to this, air leaks around the carburetor and the proportion of the air-fuel mixture is greatly disturbed);
• The hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged (because of this, a vacuum is created in the tank and it is much more difficult for the gas pump to pump gasoline out of it);

In addition to the elements responsible for supplying fuel, a drop in power also occurs due to severe contamination of the air filter element.

Ignition system

This system also takes part in the combustion of the mixture, which means a failure in its operation can affect power.

In carburetor engines VAZ-2110 and others, a decrease in traction can occur due to:

• Faulty spark plugs or changes in their thermal gap;
• Excessive wear of the contacts and the central electrode of the distributor;
• Voltage losses in high-voltage wires;
• Violations of the ignition timing.

Irregularities in the power supply and ignition systems most often cause a drop in power, so testing to identify the cause should begin with them.

If the operation of these systems does not raise suspicions, other components of the engine should be diagnosed.

Exhaust system, timing belt and crankshaft

Loss of traction can also occur due to the exhaust gas removal system, although problems with it rarely occur on carburetor engines.

The main reason here is the reduction in throughput due to large deposits in the muffler. Because of this, exhaust gases, without having time to escape from the cylinders, “choke” the engine.

The reasons for the drop in thrust are also often the gas distribution mechanism and the cylinder-piston group.

Here the reduction in power occurs due to:

• Violations of the thermal clearance of valves;
• Heavy carbon deposits on the valve plates and seats, or their burning;
• Occurrence of rings;
• Limit wear of the CPG;
• Cylinder head gasket failure.

In general, problems with the timing belt and CPG cause a drop in power in any engine - carburetor, injection, diesel. Therefore, we will not mention these mechanisms further.

Loss of traction due to power system failure

But still, if a drop in power is noticed and the car pulls poorly, you need to look for the cause in the power unit.

As with most cars, on a Priora, if a malfunction such as loss of power occurs, the check should begin with the engine power system, ignition system and gas distribution mechanism.

Description

Diagnostics of fuel pump operation
If all fuel supply mechanisms are working properly, you should check the air supply system: You need to check the condition of the air filter; if it is heavily soiled, it should be replaced.

After checking the filter, you need to pay attention to the performance of the mass air flow sensor and the throttle position sensor.

If they malfunction, they provide the electronic control unit with readings that do not correspond to the driving mode, which leads to a loss of power in the Priora.

If everything is in order with the power system, and the car does not pull, you should check the oxygen concentration sensor in the exhaust gases, also known as a lambda probe. If it malfunctions, the car begins to over-consumption of fuel and loses power.

Priora 2011 16th grade 98hp no traction and high gas mileage!

Guys, help! The car has lost traction and has high gasoline consumption; on board it shows 13.5-15 liters per hundred. There are no errors. I was diagnosed 4 times! Everyone says everything is normal. I looked at the belt, catalytic converter, changed sensors, filters, mesh, measured the pressure of the fuel pump and showed 4. The pressure in the cylinders was 14. I reflashed it twice and did not notice any difference. Sometimes it won't start the first time, and it slowly picks up speed when cold. To whomever I haven’t addressed, everyone shrugs.

Peugeot Expert Mercedes-Benz Vito

If you have changed the fuel pump mesh and air filter, clean spark plugs and injectors, also look at the mass air flow sensor and the air pressure sensor.

I checked the MAF and TPS yesterday (diagnostics), everything is fine. The spark plugs are also new, I replaced all the filters except the interior.

Peugeot Expert Mercedes-Benz Vito

There may be no errors. But diagnostics must identify the causes of problems. Change diagnosticians. If diagnostics say that this is the norm, then they consider such operating modes and consumption to be normal.

And it eats my oil. stood in my grandfather's garage for six months - I bought it! I went to Tver/400 km/as a result I added 1.5 liters of oil. I measured the oil pressure in the system when hot - 2.5 at idle. They said it was normal! The compression in the pots was 12:8.5:9.2:10.3. The rings lying down say. I sprayed the pots with water several times. I ran the piston strokes and sprayed it again...left it overnight. In the morning we measured the compression - 12:12:12:12. but it still eats oil. what else to do. Tell! She doesn't smoke, but some kind of smoke

black husks fly out of the muffler.

sav82, February 18, 2016, 18:05, #5

And it eats my oil. stood in my grandfather's garage for six months - I bought it! I went to Tver/400 km/as a result I added 1.5 liters of oil. I measured the oil pressure in the system when hot - 2.5 at idle. They said it was normal! The compression in the pots was 12:8.5:9.2:10.3. The rings lying down say. I sprayed the pots with water several times. I ran the piston strokes and sprayed it again...left it overnight. In the morning we measured the compression - 12:12:12:12. but it still eats oil. what else to do. Tell! It doesn't smoke, but some kind of black husk flies out of the muffler.

There are no miracles. It looks like you were deceived. What I would pay attention to is whether there are any traces of removing the cylinder head - sealant at the joints, pipes, etc. If so, then most likely the belt is broken and a quick repair with replacement of the valves. God forbid I'm wrong

Source

Loss of traction due to a malfunction of the ignition system

Next, you should check the ignition system of the Lada Priora. The glow plugs are checked first. They must supply a spark to the cylinder at the right moment. If you notice interruptions in the operation of the spark plug, you should also check the ignition coil, which supplies voltage to the faulty spark plug; it is quite possible that the fault lies there.

After checking the spark plugs and coils, you need to pay attention to the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. Incorrect data from these sensors, which they transmit to the control unit, can cause interruptions in engine performance. If interruptions in the functioning of these sensors are detected, they are replaced.

Loss of traction due to improper assembly or engine wear

Often the problem of power loss in a power unit is a mismatch between the position of the camshaft mark and the mark on the housing, which causes the engine's valve timing to be disrupted.

First, the alignment of the camshaft marks is checked. If the marks on the camshaft are in the correct position, you should also check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft. Often a discrepancy in marks occurs precisely on it.

The classic way to start a broken car

Incorrect adjustment of the valve clearances of the gas distribution mechanism can also cause a loss of power from the power plant. If the gaps are incorrectly set, the valve timing is disrupted, which leads to a decrease in the power of the power plant. To eliminate the malfunction, check the valve clearances and, if necessary, make adjustments.

Finally, you should check the compression in the engine cylinders. If the compression rings are severely worn, the compression in the cylinders drops, which leads to a decrease in engine power. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the rings.

Source

Main reasons

On the Lada there are hydraulic compensators on the valves; they automatically adjust the clearances in the valve mechanism. These devices are sensitive to oil starvation. As a result of a decrease in the level of this substance, fingers knock when accelerating the car. This knocking sound is also produced in the following situations:

Jerking is another common problem that is associated with a short-term spontaneous change in the speed of the engine crankshaft, regardless of the position of the accelerator pedal. In daily use, a whole series of jerks appear. The limiting case of this phenomenon - failures during acceleration of the Lada Priora - is a noticeable delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.

There are several reasons for jerking:

You can determine the reasons why a Lada with an injection engine stalls when accelerating using special diagnostic equipment. In most cases, jerking is caused by insufficient fuel pressure in the corresponding rail, a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor.

Recommendations

Comments 44

Good day, tell me how you solved this problem, it’s the same garbage, I’ve already changed everything except the pump

Good Yes, apparently this was not a problem, but a nit-picking. In general, you need to look at the diagnostics, measure the pressure in the ramp, change the mesh in the tank.

If you claim that the coils are normal, the spark plugs are normal, either the forces are dying or the sealing rings are lying down and drawing air

I changed the rings last year. As for the forces - well, they flow at xx 3.4 ms, above the diagnostic tolerances. Who knows. I cleaned it with Vince, then poured laurel into the tank. But then again, that was a year ago. I change the filter according to the regulations, I have already changed the mesh in the tank 2 times, within 30k of mileage. Gasoline at Gazprom in some places. I just noticed the difference between a cold and hot engine. Although the car drives the same as it was. But for some reason I really noticed it. I don't think these are rings.

Look at the pressure of the pump, look at the forces, honestly, I think the flushing is nonsense, I watched how they wash, just like they were applied, and they remain the only thing a little better, I bought new ones, they put out perfect fog. Change the fuel filter, you describe that you have the same thing, in general, I’m describing to you what I did, because the diagnostics are all fine, they tell me why did you come, well, I started looking for problems myself, I looked for suction valves, the knocking of the hydraulics also failed in operation is huge, because the valves do not work fully + the knock sensor turns on emergency mode, in terms of throttle heating you can remove it for the summer, but provided that there is little rain, the air is not humid, otherwise other problems will appear, buy a bk staff, here you have it They won’t tell you the same diagnostics anymore, there are smart ones, if it doesn’t seem like they are looking for a problem, well, God forbid they find them. Throw out the exhaust and have it flashed, yes it will be a plane, no talk, I felt the consumption has decreased and it goes well from the bottom.

My pump is relatively new, I changed it a year ago, this is certainly not a panacea, but I would like to think that it is not the case. There’s probably no point in removing the heating, it’s cold, and winter will begin in a month. Another thing is that after warming up, the speed at хх changes a little in the region of 840-920, and рх changes the pitch all the time, but within small limits.

This is a video on the self-tensioning timing belt, the speed jumps depending on the advance angle, that is, on the Prior this is normal

it gets dull when accelerating from 2500 to 3000 thousand, as if someone is holding it, then the 16kL Priora drives normally, 8 years old, when cold everything is fine up to 70 degrees, I already wrote a post on this topic, so I cleaned the catalyst and it still gets dull)

Jerks when moving

The moment the car starts moving, most often there is a failure. Unpleasant sensations are associated with a delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal. In some cases, the engine stalls. A jerk occurs when the throttle valve opens, when, based on a signal from its position sensor, the ECU determines the moment of transition from cold mode to load mode. This is aimed at increasing the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors. Due to insufficient pressure in the fuel line, there is not enough fuel to move the Lada Priora smoothly.

For this reason, the car stalls when accelerating. In this case, the electronic control unit of the engine, having received a message from the throttle position sensor about the intensive opening of the damper at a large angle, strives to increase the fuel supply as much as possible. This is impossible to do due to low fuel pressure.

Lada Priora sedan › Logbook › They float at cold speeds, warm up a little and everything is fine?

In general, it all started about three weeks ago. When starting in the morning, the revolutions rose to 1500, then 500 and the speed became normal, then slowly it got worse and worse, the lower the temperature and the longer the car sits, the longer the revolutions float, when you start in the morning, you have to keep on accelerating to keep it from stalling. Before that, when I didn’t apply the accelerator once, it blinked, and then the check light came on and started flashing. While I was traveling on business, the check went out, I went to the diagnostician, he said that there were misfires in cylinder 4. Maybe the coil is moving? Priora with an electronic pedal and throttle by the way!

In short, I found the reason, the rings on the receiver seemed to have fused, I replaced them with new ones and everything was fine!

Signs of engine tripping

Regardless of the reasons, engine tripping is associated with the presence of various problems, which can be solved after finding out what caused the stoppage of one of the cylinders of the internal combustion engine.

The main signs of engine tripping include

Signs

Auto mechanics identify several reasons why jerking occurs and the engine begins to stall. The main ones are: incorrect ignition timing, faulty spark plugs and installed condenser, broken piston rings, piston and valve burnout, rocker wear, clogged air filter, and others.

The cause of the jerking must be sought in the cylinders

To reduce the search for the cause of engine tripping, it is recommended to determine which cylinders are not working correctly or have stopped functioning. To do this, you will need to remove the high-voltage wire from the spark plugs one by one. This procedure must be performed carefully, as there is a risk of electric shock. Before performing this work, you will need to place a dielectric base in the form of rubber or wood under your feet. It is recommended to remove by the wire. Then the engine speed increases to 1500 rpm. The valves are removed from the cylinders one by one. If the sound of the vehicle changes when removed, then the cylinder is working correctly. Otherwise, it must be replaced.

Lada Priora idle speed fluctuates: reasons, repairs

In the case of the Priora, we have a 16-valve engine with an injector, which means with electronic fuel supply. You can often encounter a situation where the engine speed begins to “dance”, and sometimes the car even accelerates on its own, when there is not even any pressure on the gas pedal. Most often this happens when the engine is hot.

But this also happens at low temperatures, when in the morning, after starting the car, you can observe inadequate engine operation. In individual cases, interruptions may disappear on their own as the car warms up.

To begin with, it is recommended to diagnose the product to identify the root cause of the malfunction. The following points are worth considering:

1. Is the engine filter clogged?
2. Check the serviceability of the spark plugs.
3. Condition of high voltage wiring.
4. Make sure that the idle speed control and its electrics are in good working order.
5. The oxygen supply sensor is faulty.
6. Avoid damage to the temperature sensor.
7. Is the on-board computer normal?

Inspection of high voltage wire

Often, the Priora stalls when accelerating due to a malfunction of the ignition system. This is especially true for the condition of the high-voltage wire leading to the spark plug. To inspect it, you will need to remove the tip attached to the spark plug. The structure of a high-voltage wire is as follows: the winding contains the central core of the wire. The tip, which is put on the candle, has a persistent metal penny. The main purpose of this element is to transmit current to the spark plug.

The core of the high-voltage wire should fit as closely as possible to the “penny” of the steel tip placed on the spark plug. Due to aging, contact between this element and the wire may be lost due to oxidation of the metal. As a result, tripling occurs. The oxidation of the contact is checked as follows: with the second probe of the multimeter, you should touch the central core of the high-voltage wire; if the core of the high-voltage wire burns out along its entire length, then it is possible to identify such a section using a special multimeter tip.

The wire is pierced until the affected area is identified every 5-10 mm. If such a section is detected, it is cut off if the length of the high-voltage wire allows it. Otherwise, it needs to be replaced.

Replacing spark plugs yourself

Since faulty spark plugs occur most often during acceleration failures, auto mechanics recommend Lada Priora owners learn how to change this element of the ignition system themselves. This should be done after the car has traveled 20 thousand km. However, if the engine starts to trip, the spark plugs should be replaced before this date:

To ensure stable engine operation, spark plugs should be replaced regularly.

Source

Reason 4 – fuel filter

This is perhaps one of the most common reasons why the Lada Priora twitches.

Like any other filter, the fuel filter becomes clogged over time. The reason is low-quality fuel and dusty air, so it is better to refuel at proven gas stations.

You can check a clogged filter yourself using a conventional pressure gauge, tube and clamp. For this:

At a service center, a pressure check service will cost about 300 rubles.

You can replace the fuel filter at home. The part costs about 300 rubles. If there is no desire or opportunity, contact the service center. There they will charge from 500 rubles for the service.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal? Does the Priora have trouble starting?

Good day, if you are faced with a problem when you press the gas and the revolutions lazily increase and at the same time the car does not start the first time, then read the article. In most cases, the cause of this phenomenon may be a problem in the fuel system. Most likely, your fuel pump strainer is clogged or it’s time to change the fuel filter. In this article, we will take the Priora from the VAZ family as an example, and consider replacing the fuel filter. The fuel filter on a Priora must be replaced every 30,000 kilometers, as recommended by the manufacturer. The filter on the Prior is located under the fuel tank in the rear of the car, between the rear wheels. It is best to replace the filter in an inspection hole or in a suspended state.

To replace, we will need two keys for 12 and 10, as well as a Phillips screwdriver. We will need to decompress, which means removing excess fuel from the system. Remove the rear seat and unscrew the two bolts on the hatch using a Phillips screwdriver.

We unhook the connector from the fuel pump, start the engine and let it run until the fuel in the system runs out.

Loosen the filter fastening with keys 10 and 12. Remove the right pipe from the filter by pressing the latch and moving it to the side. Be sure to take a small container, as about 200-300 grams of gasoline will drain from the detached pipe.

Remove the second pipe by also pressing the latch and moving it to the side. Now you can remove the filter by tilting it down; not a lot of gasoline will drain from it either.

Installation of a new filter occurs in the reverse order. Be sure to install it strictly in the direction of the fuel, just like the old filter was. The filter has a fuel direction arrow, so it needs to be placed in the direction from the gas tank to the intake manifold

When installing the filter, you should also pay attention to the gaskets in the pipes for cracks and breaks.

Now that the filter is installed

We hook up the fuel pump terminal and, turning on the ignition without cranking the starter 2-3 times, pump gasoline into the system. We start the car and look for leaks at the junction of the fuel filter with the pipes. After making sure that there are no leaks, we put the fuel pump hatch cover and the rear seat back.

Reason 5 – mass air flow sensor or ECU firmware

A malfunction of the mass air flow sensor on a Priora leads to the control unit receiving incorrect data on the amount of incoming air, as a result of which the air-fuel mixture is not prepared correctly, and the car may begin to twitch. The malfunction is determined using diagnostics at a service center.

The price of the sensor is not at all budgetary for a Priora - about 4,000 rubles. You can change it yourself. To do this, first disconnect the negative battery terminal, then the wire connector and unscrew the pipe clamp. After this, use a wrench to unscrew the two screws securing the air filter housing and carefully remove the sensor.

Inappropriate ECU firmware leads to the same symptoms. The air-fuel mixture is not prepared correctly, and interruptions may occur during engine operation. This can be caused by improper chip tuning or a malfunction of the “brains” themselves. In any case, only competent diagnosis will help here. It usually costs about 500 rubles. After diagnosis, the technician will tell you exactly how to solve the problem.

VAZ injection engines

In injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, both 8-valve and with a timing belt with 16 valves, it is more difficult to identify the cause of the decrease in power due to the more complex design of the main systems.

Supply system

Any injector consists of a mechanical executive part and an electronic control part, and problems can arise in both of them, which will lead to a drop in power.

Let's look at the mechanical part first. Here, cravings can be influenced by:

• Severely clogged mesh filter on the fuel pump;
• Decrease in fuel pump performance due to wear;
• The fine filter is dirty;
• Malfunction of the fuel rail pressure regulator;
• Clogged injectors;
• Fuel filter dirty;
• Air leak in the manifold.

In general, almost every element of the injector executive part can be the culprit for a decrease in dynamics.

The situation is approximately the same in the electronic component.

The operation of the engine with the injector is controlled by an electronic unit, which constantly monitors the parameters through sensors installed on different systems.

The number of these tracking elements is considerable and the breakdown of any of them leads to the fact that the ECU incorrectly evaluates the indicators on the basis of which it controls the executive part.

Thus, the lambda probe, DPKV, mass air flow sensor, DPZ, phase sensors, detonation sensors and coolant temperature sensors in the event of a breakdown lead to a decrease in power, so you will have to check all of them in search of the cause.

Ignition and exhaust system

As for the ignition system of injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112 and others, the reasons may be:

• Candles;
• High voltage wires;
• Ignition module.

Another possible cause could be a misalignment of the generator drive pulley (with the ring gear).

Because of this, the DPKV readings are disrupted, as a result the operation of the ignition system is disrupted, which leads to a drop in traction.

In injection engines, the exhaust gas removal system more often creates this problem than in a carburetor car, and all due to the use of a catalyst.

The element's honeycombs have a small cross-section, so they become clogged quite quickly, which leads to exhaust gases “crushing” the engine.