Dashboard assembly LUX (European panel) VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

Description and location of indicators on the panel

After 2006, a new dashboard was installed on VAZ 2112 cars. For reasons that are not entirely clear, any description of it includes the prefix “euro”, probably due to its modernity and quality.

But in order to use it, you need to know the symbols, which are not always easy to understand even from the instructions. You can often only guess what this or that indicator and light bulb mean. To make this task easier for yourself, pay attention to the diagram of the instrument panel below and its explanations.

Description of the panel

1. Arrow pointer. Intended to indicate the approximate coolant temperature. The data is obtained from a sensor that is installed between the cylinder head and the thermostat. This allows you to obtain accurate data. The sections have a range of 20 degrees, the lower level is 50, and the upper level is 130.
2. Tachometer. Its purpose is known to any driver - to show engine revolutions per minute. Sections of 5 units, digitized every 10 units. To get the real value, add a couple of zeros to the number. Starting from 55, the engine enters the red zone in terms of revolutions.
3. Left turn signal indicator.
4. A similar indicator for the right turn signal.
5. Speedometer. It is of the induction type and receives speed data from the sensor on the gearbox. Unfortunately, it’s definitely not very high; the error can be up to 5 km/h or even more.
6. Fuel level indicator. The sensor is located directly in the tank.
7. A warning light indicating a dangerously low fuel level.
8. Low beam indicator.
9. Lamp for monitoring the amount of brake fluid.
10. High beam indicator.
11. Lever for adjusting the clock.
12. Total (odometer) and daily mileage.
13. Alarm.
14. Failure of electronic systems leading to critical engine failure.
15. Clock and thermometer.
16. Low battery charging voltage.
17. Handbrake warning lamp.
18. Critical oil pressure level.
19. Fuel mixture enricher indicator.

Based on the above diagram, you can easily remember what this or that alarm light means. And although this is an instrument cluster for the VAZ 2112, it is approximately the same on other VAZ cars.

Which wire goes where?

First, let's look at the back of the instrument panel. At the top there are:

• fuel level indicator;
• dashboard lighting lamps;
• control of right and left turns (separately);
• tachometer;
• block with many plugs;
• coolant temperature gauge.

As you can see, there is really nothing particularly complicated here. At the bottom of the instrument panel on the back side there are controllers:

• high beam;
• "emergency lights";
• CHECK ENGINE;
• battery charge;
• parking brake;
• oil pressure;
• air damper (for models with a carburetor);
• outdoor lighting work.

Installation and repair instructions

Replacing the panel, especially if you are installing it on an old VAZ 2112, is a certain difficulty. Older machines do not have some of the functions for which the panel has buttons. The wiring may need to be worked on.

Tools and materials

Standard tools will be required.

But a certain amount of additional materials is needed:

• you will need plugs for extra buttons that are not needed on an old car;
• air duct;
• various inserts, buttons (5 pieces) and pads;
• a new wiring harness suitable for the wiring diagram;
• brackets for mounting the instrument panel;

Algorithm of actions

First you need to remove the old panel. This is done in the same way as on other models of VAZ cars.

When installing, you need to replace the ignition switch with a decimal or Kalinovsky one, depending on how many terminals there are on the block to the lock. You can leave the old one and rearrange the wires, but the new one will work and look better.

The instrument panel wiring needs to be replaced. Also, connect the dimensions with additional two wires in Ш4/13 and Ш3/13 on the mounting block. This applies to older units with 11 relay spaces.

Depending on whether it is an injector or a carburetor, the connection has its own nuances. If you bought a solid factory panel, then instructions should be included with it. Briefly, it can be noted that the injector is not equipped with a speed sensor, please take this into account when installing.

The car's electrical circuit can be of great help. If it is not there, you can find it on the Internet. There are some differences between the VAZ 21124, 2111 and other car variants, so find yours.

If the instrument panel does not work after turning it on, check that the wiring is connected correctly - this is usually the error.

Ignition and engine control circuit

Here are the control diagrams for the following internal combustion engines:

• 21120 – January 5.1 or BOSCH M1.5.4N, Euro-2;

  
  21120 (Euro-2)

• 21124 – BOSCH M7.9.7, Euro-2;
  21124 (Euro-2)
• 21124 – BOSCH M7.9.7, Euro-3.
  21124 (Euro-3)

The elements installed in the additional mounting block are indicated in brackets.

Mounting block on the right side under the dashboard

Video “Europanel on VAZ 2112”

A frequently asked question is where to buy and how to install a Euro panel or dashboard trim on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands. This is not surprising, I’m already tired of dozens of ancient panels and want to somehow update the interior. In this article I will show you what is needed in order to change the old VAZ 2110 torpedo to the euro and many important issues that you will encounter when replacing the old torpedo.

First, let's define what “installing a torpedo on a VAZ 2110” means. In fact, only the panel overlay is different, and the lower part of the panel remains the same. It turns out that the torpedo is collapsible and consists of 3 parts. We are talking about the very top trim, so installing it is not as difficult as replacing the entire dashboard of a car.

Soundproofing panel VAZ 2110

To soundproof the “tens” dashboard, they mainly use bitoplast, modelin, sealant and even polyurethane foam. Bitoplast and modelin are used to cover plastic panels on a disassembled dashboard, which eliminates squeaks and improves sound insulation. Something like this in the photo below -

Bitoplast is glued with a special glue; when installed in place in the right places, this material is compressed where necessary. It is recommended to paste over the panel naturally from the inside.

Some craftsmen turn the front panel into an impregnable fortress for vibrations and squeaks using ordinary mounting foam. However, it is not recommended to use such a radical method without some experience. As a result, this is what sticks out from under the torpedo -

In addition to soundproofing the VAZ 2110 panel, it is necessary to carry out a similar procedure with the floor, roof, and doors. Such comprehensive sound insulation will ensure maximum acoustic comfort in the cabin.

In conclusion, I would like to say that there are two panels installed on the “ten”, old and new models. Photos of the old version can be found at the beginning of our article. A photo of the new version of the panel is attached below.

The most interesting thing is that a new-style panel or a Europanel for the “ten” can be installed instead of the old-style panel. In principle, they are interchangeable, but it is worth considering that along with the installation of a new panel, you will have to install a new instrument panel assembly, another ACS unit (automatic control system for interior heating) and add an electric heater damper drive. The mounting points of the old and new panels themselves are the same, so there are no problems with installation.

To change the torpedo trim, it is not necessary to remove it completely!

So let's get started, let's look at the panel overlays, which are divided into:

Euro-1, another name is “Caprice” and has an index of 21104. The features of this lining are that it does not have a passenger shelf.

Euro-2, index 2110L, cover but already comes with a passenger shelf.

Euro-3, a cover without a shelf, but under the instrument panel of Kalina, Priora, and has a climate control module with 3 knobs and an emergency stop button.

There are also exclusive panel overlays that make the interior of the VAZ 2110 similar to the Nissan Primera, where the instrument panel is in the center.

In addition to these Euro-overlays, there are overlays that are installed on top of them. For example, the overlay of the Chestnut panel.

It is not difficult to install the Kashtan overlay on the dashboard, so we will not dwell on this, but changing the old panel overlay to the Euro one is already more difficult.

The euro overlay for the panel consists of:

• On the masonry itself
• Inserts for buttons (small insert 2110L-2120031, large 2110L-2120032)
• Air ducts (2114-81080623)

• Device panel trim (2110L-5325124)
• Double button for turning on the headlights and low beam
• Key for turning on the rear fog lights (with fixation)
• Rear window heating switch (latching)
• Key pads - 2 pcs.
• Plugs instead of keys - 6 pcs.

• Wiring harness for connecting the dual side position switch and low beam headlights
• Block
• Device panel fastenings
• It may be necessary to purchase separately different keys for the VAZ-2114 and pads for them.

The cover gives the impression of a high quality product. It is softer than the old pad and, as the developers say, is more injury-proof. They also promise improved air flow to the side windows.

Now we are moving towards installation, and here we can distinguish 2 methods, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages:

Components

When purchasing, you will receive what is included in the kit, namely:

1. Europlate;
2. Inserts for switches (buttons) of devices;
3. Trim on the instrument panel;
4. Since your instrument combination may differ from those whose installation is structurally provided, there should also be six plugs; they can be inserted instead of buttons;
5. The buttons themselves and two pads for them: • Double – for low beam and dimensions; • To turn on the fog lights; • Heated rear window.
6. Air ducts;
7. Block and wiring harness designed to connect a double button for side lights and low beam;
8. Brackets securing the instrument panel.

In addition, if you are not entirely satisfied with this combination, and you need more buttons for other devices, then they, as well as the pads for them, can be purchased separately.

Source

Installing the Euro trim without removing the dashboard

In this option, you need to have a drill and screws on hand.

Rely on the lining mounting diagram and start in order:

1. Remove the dashboard.
2. Open the glove compartment and unscrew the three screws from the inside (positions 1,2,3 in the diagram). Trying to unscrew the screw (pos. 9) from the inside near the windshield is difficult, but doable.
3. Remove the 4 keys (next to the control module) and unscrew the screws from the inside (pos. 4.5)
4. Unscrew or loosen the fastening by adjusting the backlight (pos.
5. Open the fuse module and unscrew 2 screws from the inside (pos. 6 and 7)
6. Now the panel overlay is held in place only by screws, positions 10 and 11. They cannot be unscrewed, so we break them out or lift the overlay by the right edge and cut them off with a file. (Note: the Euro trim will cover the entire top of the panel up to the windshield, so you don’t have to worry about the appearance when you cut or break the screws)
7. Remove the old dashboard trim.

Installation without completely disassembling the panel

The panel, as many people know, consists of three parts, but the Europanel of the VAZ 2110 is, in fact, only the upper part of the dashboard. And if the goal is only to replace it, without any modifications or other tuning, then you can safely do a partial disassembly without removing all the equipment.

You will need:

• Drill;
• Screwdriver;
• Self-tapping screws.

The dismantling process goes like this:

Remove the dashboard; Open the glove compartment and unscrew the three screws from the inside. It is quite difficult to unscrew the screw near the windshield, but still doable; Next to the ECU, pull out 4 buttons and unscrew the screws from the inside; We loosen the fastening of the backlight adjustment. You can unscrew it completely, as is more convenient; Having opened the instrument fuse box, we also unscrew 2 screws from the inside; There are still two self-tapping screws that hold the panel trim, but they cannot be unscrewed without complete disassembly. Therefore, either these screws are carefully broken out, or even cut out by lifting the overlay on the right, using a metal file. At the same time, the appearance of the future updated “face” of the interior will not be affected, since the Euro trim will cover these places; Now you can safely remove the cover. We carry out actions with the overlay according to the instructions We lay a harness at the base of the panel We stretch and tighten additional wires into bundles The connectors under the overlay are wrapped in bitoplast Installing the Euro overlay and tightening it with self-tapping screws Installing the Euro overlay and tightening it with self-tapping screws View of the assembled panel from the inside

Let's prepare a new dashboard trim for installation

To do this, we cut off the remaining material of the Euro lining. There is no need to cut out any space under the dashboard, otherwise there will be a gap between the control column and the trim. In this place you simply need to make 2 cuts on the sides so that this part of the lining can be slightly bent as needed. Also, there is no need to cut off 10 mm from the sides of the lining in the area of ​​the side air ducts; these places must be adjusted to the location.

We measure the panel overlay and adjust it as necessary. At this step, it is recommended to use anti-creak (soundproofing the panel). This way, you will insure yourself against squeaks in the future.

To install the dashboard in the Euro trim, you can use one of the methods:

1. Use fasteners from the Euro lining kit.
2. Use fasteners from an old lining (from drilling).
3. We connect connectors and Europanel keys according to the instructions:

When the overlay is ready, let's try to install it. Fastening the Europlate in positions 1-7 of the diagram. We fix 35mm screws on top, which are then hidden under a plastic cover.

The advantage of this method is time. If you dismantled the panel, then you will spend no more than 3 hours changing the lining. If this is the first time you are faced with a similar type of work, then about five hours.

VAZ 2112 dashboard tuning with the installation of “euro” torpedoes

VAZ 2112 tuned dashboards are becoming very common, and are moving from the section of unaffordable luxury to the area of ​​tuning available to everyone, limited only by the owner’s imagination. Now it is fashionable to install a “Euro” torpedo, instead of the standard one, in addition, covering it with leather or fashionable fabric (Alcantara), and tuning the instrument panel on the VAZ 2112 is becoming the most common and affordable, as it is simple to perform and attractive.

Installation of a “euro” torpedo

The owners of the “twelfth” vases, which were produced after 2006, are very lucky - since from this year the cars will be produced with a “Euro” panel, as well as a Kalinovsky (from the Kalina fret) steering wheel and power steering. What remains for owners of cars equipped with an old panel? Either use what you have or install a “euro” panel if the car was manufactured before 2006:

"Euro" torpedo VAZ

• The main question is whether it is advisable to change the standard panel in an old car to a “euro” one, as in the photo above
• Since the existing so-called “euro” panel contains many indicators and buttons not used in the old generation VAZ2112
• And its old steering column does not fit well with the design of the modern “Euro” panel

To install the “euro” panel with your own hands, you need to purchase additionally:

• Overlay for "euro" panel
• Special inserts for buttons,
• The buttons themselves, pads for them, plugs instead of unused buttons
• New air ducts
• Fuse box
• Wiring harness
• New brackets for the instrument panel
• Matching door trim panels

At the same time, keep in mind that standard connectors for the “brains” do not fit, so you will have to tinker to make adapters; you will also need a steering wheel from Kalina, and power steering for that matter. Of course, if you tinker a lot (the price for such tuning is high), but the result will justify itself, since the advantages of the “euro” panel are many:

• Firstly, modern design
• Secondly, ergonomics are at a high level
• Thirdly, VDO devices are already illuminated from the inside
• Built-in digital odometer, very original warning lights
• Its plastic is much softer and more pleasant to the touch.
• The “Euro” torpedo has a more precise fit of all plastic parts

Another option is that you can install a panel from a Priora, but you will also have to purchase it complete with the door trim; this is also quite expensive. Therefore, tuning VAZ 2112 tuning devices will help you avoid unnecessary emotions and solve the problem at low cost:

• Replacing the instrument cluster with a modern model
• Performing sizing of the instrument panel in order to eliminate squeaks that are unpleasant to the ear

Where can I get Europanel?

The fact is that europlates, as well as assembled europanels, have become in short supply, since their production was discontinued more than five years ago. Therefore, they mostly sell used ones in good condition; it is quite difficult to find a new one. If suddenly the offered product does not suit you, you can install the Priorovskaya by completely disassembling the old one.

Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.

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Panel painting

You can update the appearance of the car interior by painting the plastic, the look will be tuning, and the costs will be minimal:

• And since first you will need to “get your teeth into”, we will start this work with the simplest part - the air duct
• Before painting, of course, it will be necessary to dismantle these parts
• To remove the deflectors you will need a flathead screwdriver because they are secured with special plastic latches
• However, you should act very carefully, the latches break easily, then you will have to buy new ones in the store
• Immediately after removing the necessary plastic elements, do not rush to paint them immediately
• In this case, the paint will not last very long, and you will have to repaint them again very soon
• Therefore, first you need to thoroughly wipe the surface of the plastic from dust and dirt, then degrease it using white spirit or another solvent that does not corrode the plastic.

Removed air ducts and door plastic panels

• For painting we use paint exclusively in cans; it must be painted in several layers
• And after painting, we dry the parts, and only after that we can start varnishing
• It is advisable to apply the varnish in several layers from a can or sprayer.
• In about a day you can install the painted and varnished elements in their places
• In addition, it is worth knowing that the paint for such work should be chosen that is heat-resistant, since otherwise exposure to direct sunlight can significantly damage it; harmful fumes negatively affect the health of passengers and the driver of the car.
• After that it's time to paint the torpedo
• Painting the dashboard inside the cabin will be very problematic, so we recommend dismantling it first
• We remove the dashboard, clean it of dust and dirt, then carefully degrease it
• After this we apply black paint, also several layers, but there is no need to varnish the panel
• And after drying, you can install your dashboard back into the interior.
• Well, if you are too lazy to dismantle the panel, and still decide to paint it directly inside the car, then you should try very hard
• First, you should cover the entire interior with film, then move the seats back and then start painting
• And don’t forget to use personal protective equipment, be sure to wear a respirator and rubber gloves on your hands
• After painting, it is necessary to drive the car into a dark garage to protect it from direct sunlight.
• Open all doors and windows
• The final drying of the paint will occur in about a week, but if you have a strong desire to try out a car with a self-updated dashboard, then you can do this no earlier than in a day

Removing the car dashboard

1. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the three screws that secure the center console;
2. remove the cover, the protrusion located at the bottom, remove the protrusion from the bracket;
3. Using a nozzle, unscrew the five screws located in the console on the right and remove the screen;
4. Disconnect the terminal with the (-) sign from the battery. If there is a radio receiver, you need to remove it, remove the plug from the shield;
5. Disconnect the wires coming from the cigarette lighter, remove the cartridge;
6. Using a narrow screwdriver, remove the handle from the levers;
7. pull the handle towards the heating and fan switch;
8. unscrew the two screws above the panel and the two located under it using a screwdriver;
9. unscrew the screw located behind the panel;
10. Also unscrew the two self-tapping screws securing the cover;
11. disconnect the harness and wire connectors. To avoid confusion when installing the panels, you should mark the order in which they are connected;
12. unscrew the fastening bolts;
13. unscrew the two self-tapping screws, those that secure the bottom bracket using an 8 key;
14. unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the light guide and remove it;
15. Also unscrew the screws securing the heating unit;
16. remove lamp sockets;
17. after removing the external parts, remove the decorative insert;
18. unscrew all nuts with a 21 key;
19. hydrocorrector, remove its lamp;
20. Unscrew the screws that are attached to the cross member on the left.
21. Finally, the panel itself is removed. The panel is assembled accordingly in the reverse order.

In general, the repair work is quite doable even with your own hands, but before starting dismantling work, you need at least a pinout mapped on paper, otherwise it will be difficult: you will need to “trace” every wire and every connection that is on the “path” from devices to the power button.

Tuning the instrument cluster

Let's look at the types of instrument cluster tuning in order:

• In many car parts stores, as well as on the Internet, you can easily find special 'inserts in the instrument cluster', with the help of which you can change not only the backlight colors, but also the design of the dials. However, in my opinion, they are unreasonably expensive, although anyone can make them on their own, the only drawback of this method is the need to remove the instrument needles
• The second option for changing the backlight is to replace the backlight bulbs with high-brightness blue LEDs, but this inevitably leads to the disappearance of red elements on the scales
• But if you simply paint the backlight bulbs blue using tsaponlak, this is a bad option, firstly, you will end up with a blue color that is not at all saturated (not bright), secondly, the red elements will disappear from view, and thirdly, the installed insert devices has a filter with a green tint

Let's make a substrate

First, change the backlight bulb to an LED in the odometer screen:

• The green filter should not be touched; it will not change the color or shade of the blue LED
• The action that will need to be performed with the LED is to grind off its bulb (since the bulb has a lens installed that concentrates the light and makes the diode shine directionally, like a flashlight)
• After this, we leave 0.5-1 mm of the inside of the LED (with the contacts on which the light element is attached), add a drop of Super Moment type glue

After this, we move on to the option of making an insert into the shield ourselves:

• It is best to have a template, download it from the Internet and print it, or take a scale from non-working instruments, remove the insert with the scales, scan it in film mode so that the pictograms of the indicator of dimensions, fuel, oil and others are visible
• Next, the CorelDRAW graphic editor will help you vectorize
• A radical change in the design of the scales is simply a waste of time, so you can easily leave the standard design, the main thing is that the readings are perfectly readable
• The base can be printed using a phototypesetting machine, you just need a good density of black color, otherwise you will have the entire panel glowing, and not just its numbers

Tuning trim for instrument cluster

To make a color base there are two options:

• Option one: take a film for a laser printer, print the outlines of the scales, setting the “mirror” mode, it is better to set the outline color to 5%
• We recommend that you first enlarge the contours (slightly) by 0.5 millimeters, in case there are any discrepancies between the tracing paper and the photo output
• We color the tracing paper with paints that are used in silk-screen printing, since such paints dry quickly, they are transparent and give a good rich color
• Option two: you can print the colored substrate on the film of an inkjet printer, however, most likely, you will have to run it several times to achieve a bright, saturated color
• To achieve the invisibility (invisibility) of the symbols of the control lights, we take a transparent film specially for an inkjet printer, print colored squares on it, which we lay according to the sample
• When the control light is not on, the designation pattern is practically invisible, and to achieve a better effect you can glue a piece of tint film onto the base

The final stage in making a “sandwich”:

• Taking into account the fact that the film from the phototypesetting machine came out glossy, we put a matte film as the first layer in order to laminate it, which has a thickness of 25 microns
• We put a base under the film
• The next layer is a laminating film to glue two sheets of paper together, instead of double-sided tape
• Then a colored substrate and again a matte film
• Film layers 1, 3 and 5 will give us additional dispersion, as a result of which we get uniform illumination
• Then we put it all through a laminator.
• Finally, carefully cut out our insert
• We use a punch to cut out holes for the shafts for the arrows
• Just a piece of iron tube of suitable diameter will do; the edge needs to be sharpened
• However, as a result, it quickly became clear that the scales glow, not so brightly, I would like it to be brighter, even worse than before (the power of the standard backlight is not enough), so we move on to a method of radically changing the entire backlight