Brake system VAZ 2115 injector: diagram, possible malfunctions - do-it-yourself car repair avtoservis-rus.ru

The brake system of the VAZ 2114 car contains a master brake cylinder (GTC). The main task of this unit is to convert force when the driver presses the brake pedal. The brake cylinder is located on the cover of the vacuum booster, and above it is the brake fluid reservoir. Like any other part, the GTZ can be damaged and fail. To replace it, you don’t have to go to a car service; you can do this work yourself.

Installing rear disc brakes, adjusting braking forces on the rear axle

First, the drum brake system is unscrewed and removed.
Next, the four bolts are unscrewed and the hub is removed.
After this, the brake pipe is unscrewed from the cylinder.
Next, the hub is installed using the appropriate faceplates (left and right). The tabs on the adapter must be on the outside.
There is no need to place a grommet under the bolt indicated by the arrow, as it will make it difficult to install the caliper.
The hub bolts must be replaced with new ones, 5 mm longer than the old ones.
Six bolts are needed on each side: four to secure the hub and two to install the calipers. A total of 12 new bolts will be needed. If it was not possible to find bolts of the required length, then you can take longer ones and cut them to the required length: the thread to the head should not exceed 13 mm.
The corner of the beam will have to be crushed with a hammer, and, if necessary, the surface will have to be refined with a grinder. The metal here is soft enough, so there will be no difficulties. This is done in order to prevent the caliper from touching the beam. If rear 14-inch wheels and calipers are installed, then this operation is not necessary.
There is a protrusion around the circumference of the hub that prevents the VAZ disk from seating. The internal diameter of the disc, like the hub, is 58 mm, but where there is a protrusion, the diameter is 60 mm.

The process of replacing the turbocharger and brake fluid

When the tools, new mechanism and fluid are prepared, you can begin dismantling the old VAZ 2114 spare part:

The first step is to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Replacing the master cylinder involves completely removing the old brake fluid - this is best done with a syringe;

Advice! When assembling the system, motorists often confuse brake pipes. To make your work easier, it is recommended to sign them with a marker. This applies to any parts in the VAZ 2114 car.

Once the threads have been removed, dismantling the main unit can begin. Using the “18” socket, you need to remove the nuts that attach the main cylinder to the amplifier;

The vacuum booster may also need to be replaced. In this case, remove the fitting and turn the main unit to the side. After this, you need to unscrew the hose and go into the interior of the VAZ 2114 car, where the pin locking bracket is located. After removing all the fasteners, you can install a new fluid pressure booster.

Source

Installation process

If any difficulties arise during dismantling, then it is worth looking into the VAZ 2114 service manual, there is a detailed description of the removal and installation of all mechanisms. And now to work:

The cable tension must be loosened and the rear pads must be brought together. After this, you can use the 12th key to remove the guide pins. The seat must be thoroughly cleaned with a metal brush, and then the drum must be knocked down. It is not recommended to use a metal tool for these purposes, as it can damage the seat. The best solution would be a rubber hammer;

The caliper can be located in front or behind the wheel axle. This should not affect the operation of the mechanism in any way, but usually owners of the VAZ 2114 prefer to install it on the rear axles, since symmetry will have a positive effect on braking. The next step is to join the faceplate and hub. You should check that the centering has been carried out thoroughly. If there are defects, the docking must be repeated;

How to find the cause of the leak

To find where the VAZ 2114 brake fluid goes, you should conduct a thorough visual inspection.

Brake hoses

The easiest way to detect a leak is on the brake hoses - here it is enough to check the rubber by touch. If it is rigid, inelastic and cracks form when bent, the hose must be replaced, even if there are no leaks.

Sometimes a brake hose of the wrong diameter falls off the fitting. In this case, it should be replaced with a similar one, but smaller in diameter. You can put on the same hose, but in this case you will have to secure it with special clamps.

Wheel brake cylinders

To detect fluid leaks on the brake cylinders, remove the wheels and inspect the brake system for signs of leakage on the calipers.

VAZ-2114 is equipped with a drum braking system. To detect leaks in the wheel cylinders, the brake drums must also be removed. This usually causes difficulty in removal due to the fact that their surface wears out.

In this case, they are removed in two ways:

You can “squeeze” the drum out of the hub by selecting bolts of the required diameter and screwing them into the threaded holes on the drum. This is done until the drum is removed.
Knock out the brake drum by hitting its internal parts with a hammer from opposite sides.

Important! With the second method, you should only use a hammer with a rubber striker. Metal cannot be used, because The drum may be damaged.

The best option for the VAZ-2114 is to replace the entire brake cylinder assembly at once. Otherwise, you should disassemble the cylinder and inspect its parts for damage.

You need to carefully examine:

the surface of the cylinder itself;
pistons - need to be changed if there are signs of corrosion or scratches on them;
seals - if worn or in case of a loose fit, they should be replaced;
Anthers - check for rips, scratches, cuts and other damage.

Attention! Before assembly, all cylinder parts should be cleaned and washed with brake fluid.

Master brake cylinder

If the cuffs of the main brake cylinder are clearly worn out, they should be replaced.

pump out as much liquid as possible from the tank with a syringe;
disconnect all tubes from the cylinder;
remove and disassemble the cylinder itself.

Installing new pads

In order to install the stops, it is necessary to place the piston in the area of the brake cylinder.

Here it is important to balance your strength and not overdo it, because this work is hard, requiring not only effort, but also caution, since the part is made of aluminum, which, as is known, is not very strong

The second step is to install the pads in the caliper. The caliper itself is installed in its place and secured with a bolt. Installation of parts is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling.

The job is done, all that remains is to put on the wheel.

For an experienced motorist, replacing pads is not a complicated procedure that takes a little more than fifteen minutes. It is necessary because the pads primarily affect the safety of the car, because they are directly connected to the braking system.

Therefore, you should not neglect this type of repair work; it is better to spend some time in the garage and a certain amount of money on buying new parts than to suffer more serious losses in an accident, which is what worn pads lead to.

We wish you good luck and a bon voyage!

The brake system worked well, but still not perfect. I was especially infuriated by the beating of the pedal when I pressed the brake in the middle, and I wanted to carry out preventative measures: replace the fluid, replace the vacuum seal, bleed it.

I didn’t choose wheels for a long time, I couldn’t financially cope with the transition to R14, so the stock is from Autoreal (cost: 1200 rubles per pair)

The process of replacing discs is generally simple; all difficulties arise from stuck bolts and the discs themselves to the hub. You can change in one helmet, no assistants are required, if only to save you from boredom.

As usual, we place the wheelbarrow on the platform, do not forget to provide a reliable support for the car, so that during the work it does not fall on our heads! We remove the wheel, for easy access to the bolts we turn the caliper towards ourselves. We unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper, move it to the side, securing it or placing it on some kind of support so that it does not hang on the hose.

Then unscrew the caliper bracket from the steering knuckle and remove it, thereby freeing the brake disc.

All that remains is to unscrew the last two studs, and you can begin to knock down the brake disc. This activity is very interesting. Here, depending on your luck, it happens that the discs come off after just a couple of hits, and sometimes you have to suffer because the discs are no longer needed. I hit the work surface, naturally it was all chipped. If the disc is needed, we hit it on the inside of it, using the pointed bit. It is more convenient to perform this procedure from the pit. I cleaned the disk landing area with a metal brush. As you can see in the photo, there is paint and dirt, and WD40 was poured in generously.

Before assembly, I started painting work, I didn’t bother too much, I sanded the discs lightly, but I had to tinker with the calipers and brackets a little longer, I didn’t sand them to perfection. I didn’t want the usual color, I was already pretty tired of red and silver, and since there isn’t much choice in the village, I took the paint: Auto enamel 1K repair, alkyd, Adriatic color 425, I’ve already driven more than 5 thousand km, the paint is spot on))

In order to seat the new disk evenly, I tightened all the wheel mounting bolts and began to gradually tighten it with a cross, the disk sat smoothly, without distortions...

Everything else is in reverse order. And don’t forget to bleed the brakes, this is where you will need an assistant. There are plenty of pumping methods on the Internet and I don’t see the point in describing my own.

The color turned out to be very unusual, some people like it, while others are drawn to red.

And now, after several days of repairs, happy as an elephant, I jump behind the wheel and go to check the brakes, and at the first braking I fell into a stupor! NO BRAKES! (I didn’t brake all the way, but in a smooth, gentle mode, so as not to ruin the disks). At first it seemed to grapple, and then it swam. In shock, I check all connections for leaks - everything is normal. I touched the discs, and they were boiling water, and it was just a couple of smooth stops! I didn't expect this. Go home straight away and let the discs cool. After some time, leaving again - the same thing, but a little better. At this rate I drove 80 kilometers, and each time the brakes grabbed better and got less hot.

https://www.drive2.ru/l/7951803/

https://youtube.com/watch?v=1M8iKMFVM0k

Sources

https://vaz-russia.ru/remont-vaz-2113/zamena-perednih-tormoznyih-kolodok-na-vaz-2113-vaz-2114-vaz-2115.html
https://mylada.net/remont/zamena-perednix-tormoznyx-kolodok-na-vaz-2110.html
https://spike.su/index.php/Replacing-brake-discs-VAZ-2113-2114-2115.html

Features of operation and repair of car disc brakes

A disc brake system includes a brake disc and a caliper with one or more working cylinders. Brake calipers can generally be either floating or fixed. The floating caliper is attached directly to the steering knuckle or to a special bracket using guide pins. On one side of this caliper there are working pistons or only one piston.

When you press the brake pedal, the force is transferred to the brake fluid and then to the piston, which ultimately presses the inner pad against the disc. By resting on the brake disc, the piston allows the caliper to move along with the outer pad.

The fixed caliper has a different design. All vehicles are required to be equipped with them - from cars to airplanes. This caliper, which has pistons on both sides, is rigidly attached to the steering knuckle. The force developed in a disc brake is capable of completely braking a car weighing 2 tons from a speed of 100 km/h at a distance of 35 m. Thus, in comparison with floating mechanisms, fixed mechanisms create much more force, but their cost is much higher. In addition, the fixed caliper has quite a decent mass. But if fast and effective braking is of paramount importance, the choice is made in favor of a fixed mechanism.

Repairing any type of caliper involves the same problems. In both cases, the caliper is constantly in contact with water and dirt, which can lead to the destruction of the sealing cuffs in the pistons. This can cause the piston to seize in the disc brake caliper. For replacement, ready-made repair kits with a special high-temperature resistant lubricant are offered.

Brake pads are considered a consumable item. They consist of a metal plate and a friction lining glued to it. Although commercially available pads may vary in size and shape, their function is always the same. Friction linings are usually made of ceramic and carbon fiber.

Modern cars are equipped with a wear sensor, which is mounted on one of the internal brake pads. The sensor is an ordinary spring. As the pad wears, this spring eventually begins to come into contact with the brake disc, producing an unpleasant squeaking sound and warning that the disc brake needs to be repaired.

The brake discs themselves, in the cheapest version, are made of cast iron. For a budget car like the Hyundai Accent under standard operating conditions, this is a completely acceptable option. Cast iron discs have characteristic disadvantages - they wear out and warp. Wear, sometimes uneven, is caused by friction.

Over time, thin grooves form on the surface of the disk, created by abrasive friction of small dust particles. In this case, it is necessary to look at the depth of these furrows. If the depth exceeds the standard value, the disk will need to be ground, and if repair is impossible, the disk will need to be replaced.

Warping occurs as a result of temperature changes: heating and expansion of the disc material during braking and cooling when the brake pedal is released. The smooth and slight heating-cooling process does not have a strong negative impact. Prolonged and sharp braking and subsequent cooling of the disk, for example, by splashing water from a puddle, leads to irreversible deformation (warping). In the future, braking with such a disc will cause vibrations. If the warping is not critical, the warped brake disc can be straightened.

Symptoms of problems

The fluid brake system consists of many parts that can become unusable: pipes, wheel cylinders, calipers, drums and pads. Typical signs of a faulty master cylinder:

After pressing the pedal, the car stops slowly. The reason is that the cuffs of one or two pistons have lost their tightness - they have cracked or “floated”.
To slow down, you need to press the brake pedal hard. The phenomenon occurs due to swelling of the rubber of the piston seals.
The brake pedal travel is too short. The fluid inside the cylinder has nowhere to go because the compensation hole is clogged. Another option is that the passage is blocked by a swollen rubber seal.
A common symptom is pedal failure, the brakes coming on at the end of the stroke. This indicates complete wear of the cuffs; as a result, liquid penetrates behind the piston and rushes into the expansion tank - the cylinder “bypasses.”
The pads do not release the brake discs and drums and get very hot when driving. Options: one of the pistons is jammed or the bypass hole is clogged.

The listed symptoms of a GTZ malfunction are similar to malfunctions of other elements. Pedal failure also occurs when a large amount of air enters the tubes or loss of fluid in one of the working cylinders. Sluggish deceleration and increased force on the pedal are often caused by a breakdown of the vacuum booster - a cracked membrane or a lack of tightness at the joints of the hose that takes off engine vacuum.

There are signs that clearly indicate the performance of the main hydraulic cylinder and the malfunction of other elements:

during braking, the car pulls to the side - the problem lies in a certain circuit or wheel;
jamming of the brake mechanisms of one wheel;
creaking and squeaking when braking;
heating the discs and pads on one wheel.

If you eliminate these symptoms, it will become easier to check the brake master cylinder in a garage. This also includes obvious brake fluid leaks and the knocking sound of worn calipers.

Relays and fuses VAZ 2114

F1 for 10 Amps (A) rear fog lights and rear fog light warning lamp.
F2 for 10 A turn signal lamps, turn signal relay, hazard lights, hazard warning lights.
F3 7.5 A lamps for interior lighting (both) and trunk, ignition lighting, powertrain control system control lamp, brake lamps, computer, if available.
F4 20 A carrier, relay and rear window heating element.
F5 20 A horn and its relay, cooling fan.
F6 30 A power windows and their relays
F7 30 A motor for heater, headlight cleaner, windshield washer, cigarette lighter, glove compartment light bulb, rear window heating relay coil.
F8 7.5 A right fog lamp.
F9 7.5 A left fog light.
F10 at 7.5 A left side marker, lamp signaling the inclusion of the side light, lamps for illuminating the sign, engine compartment, illumination of switches and instruments, instrument lighting switch.
F11 at 7.5 A right side.
F12 at 7.5 A right low beam.
F13 at 7.5 A left low beam.
F14 for 7.5 A left high beam and a light indicating that the high beam headlights are on.
F15 at 7.5 A right far.
F16 30 A - a light indicating insufficient oil pressure, brake fluid level, engagement of the parking brake, low battery, instrument cluster, relay for monitoring the health of lamps, indication of control systems, reversing lamps, turn indicators and their relays, as well as an alarm if turning mode is turned on, computer, generator excitation winding is turned on at the moment the engine starts.

Location of relays and fuses of the new model

K1 - relay for turning on headlight cleaners;
K2 - relay-interrupter for direction indicators and hazard warning lights;
K3 - windshield wiper relay;
K4 - lamp health monitoring relay;
K5 - power window relay;
K6 - relay for turning on sound signals;
K7 — relay for turning on the heated rear window;
K8 - headlight high beam relay;
K9 - relay for low beam headlights;
F1-F20 - fuses.

Connection diagram of the new type mounting block

K1 - relay for turning on headlight cleaners;
K2 - relay-interrupter for direction indicators and hazard warning lights;
K3 - windshield wiper relay;
K4 - lamp health monitoring relay;
K5 - power window relay;
K6 - relay for turning on sound signals;
K7 — relay for turning on the heated rear window;
K8 - headlight high beam relay;
K9 - relay for low beam headlights;
F1-F20 - fuses.

BRAKE SYSTEM

All modern cars have a hydraulic brake system, and discs or drums are used as braking elements. Discs are considered more efficient in their action, but drums do not wear out longer. The brake system of the VAZ 2114 contains the following parts:

Brake master cylinder;
Front caliper (right and left, they are not interchangeable with each other);
Rear brake service cylinder (one for each rear wheel);
Vacuum booster;
Tubes;
Hoses;
Disks (on the front wheels, identical to each other);
Drums (on the rear wheels, interchangeable with each other).

What is a brake master cylinder and what is it for?

Brake master cylinder and reservoir.

Braking is accomplished by pressing the pads against the disc. This is done by pistons that are driven by a hydraulic system containing brake fluid. However, for brake mechanics to work, pressure must be somehow transmitted by pressing the pedal. For this purpose, a master brake cylinder is needed, which transmits the mechanical action of the driver to the hydraulic system through a booster.

Considering the importance of the part, they try to make it as reliable as possible. But even greater reliability can only be ensured by an additional system, which is why all modern cars have a two-section GTZ. Each section serves an independent circuit, which, in the event of a breakdown of the first, will be duplicated, although with less efficiency.

The circuits can be connected in the following ways:

Parallel (4+2). One circuit is used for all wheels and has insurance on the front ones.
Parallel (2+2). One circuit is responsible for the front wheels, the second - for the rear.
Diagonal (2+2). Each circuit operates on one front and one rear wheel diagonally.

As a rule, a diagonal system is used in front-wheel drive cars, and a parallel 2+2 in rear-wheel drive cars.

What does the VAZ 2114 brake system consist of?

The brakes of the VAZ 2114 are a vital system of the car. These are not loud words and every driver will agree with this. Also, every driver knows that timely, high-quality repair of the VAZ 2114 brake system is the key to its trouble-free operation.

The brake system on the VAZ 2114 consists of two main parts:

Wheel mechanisms - directly affect the elements rotating with the wheel and slow down its rotation.
Drive – a system for transmitting force from the pressed pedal to the wheel mechanisms.

The “fourteenth” has a dual-circuit system with a hydraulic drive. This means that the force created by pressing the pedal creates fluid pressure (hydraulics) throughout the system. This same pressure forces the wheel cylinders to work. The concept of “dual-circuit” means that the pedal force is transmitted along two lines (circuits) independent of each other to pairs of wheels. The contours have a diagonal distribution: the rear right wheel works together with the front left one, and the rear left one works with the front right wheel. If one of the circuits fails, this solution allows you to maintain vehicle stability when braking, especially on slippery roads and when turning.

Important: the main condition for the system to work is its tightness. Therefore, it is extremely dangerous to operate a car with fluid leakage.

It is also extremely dangerous for air to enter the system. According to its physical properties, air, when compressed, decreases in volume many times over, unlike liquid, which, when compressed, practically does not change its volume. When braking a car with a leaky system, the pedal may “fail” and the brakes of the VAZ 2114 will not work.

VAZ 2114 brake system diagram

The brake system diagram of the VAZ 2114 has a classic layout, similar to both VAZ models and cars of many world brands.

Master brake cylinder.
Metal pipes of the 1st circuit.
Flexible hose for front mechanisms.
Liquid reservoir.
Vacuum brake booster.
Metal pipes of the 2nd circuit.
Rear wheel cylinders.
Brake pressure regulator drive lever.
Flexible hose for rear mechanisms.
Pressure regulator.
Pressure regulator bracket.
Pedal.

Main brake cylinder VAZ 2114

General view of the brake master cylinder (MBC) under the hood of a car with a fluid reservoir and a vacuum booster.

The master brake cylinder creates pressure in the system, distributes it along the circuits and transmits it to the wheel cylinders. It consists of a two-section housing, inside which a piston moves, driven by a pedal. The fluid pressure created in the hydraulic structure is transmitted through circuits to the wheel mechanisms.

The vacuum booster reduces the force applied to the pedal. This makes the system more efficient. The operation of the vacuum valve directly depends on the operation of the engine. The vacuum booster is connected to the engine intake manifold by a flexible rubber hose. The vacuum (vacuum) in the amplifier is created by creating low pressure in the intake manifold from the movement of the engine pistons during the intake stroke.

The rear brake pressure regulator changes the force applied to the brakes depending on the load on the rear of the vehicle. It protects the car from early or late deceleration of the rear wheels and increases its stability.

How does a brake master cylinder work?

The structure of the main brake cylinder: 1 - Housing with compensation holes; 2-3 - Circuit drive piston; 4 - Spacer washer; 5. Rod;

To make it easier for the driver to brake comfortably and confidently, in modern cars the pressure on the pedal is transmitted through a brake booster, often a vacuum one. Often the brake master cylinder is mounted on the booster cover, forming a single unit with it. In this case, a compensation tank is located above the cylinder, which contains a reserve of brake fluid, which can be useful in case of minor leaks or natural evaporation.

The rod coming from the vacuum booster rests against the double piston. Since the pistons are located on the same axis, the force of the rod moves them simultaneously, allowing pressure to be created in two circuits at once. At the same time, liquid also enters the compartments expanding behind the working cavities from the tank. This will avoid vacuum in the circuits, which can occur if the pedal is released abruptly. Having removed the force on the rod, the piston is returned by springs to its original position, after which the pressure in the cylinder is equalized.

Front brake device for VAZ 2114

The front brakes of the “four” consist of the following parts and mechanisms:

Brake disk. It is connected to the wheel hub and rotates with the car wheel.
The pad guide is a holder for the pads and a base for the guide pins.
Caliper. Responsible for uniform transmission of force from the pads to the disc.
Brake pads. When you press the pedal, the disc is compressed on both sides. This results in slower movement.
Cylinder. A sealed cavity in which the piston moves.
Piston. Hydraulic fluid pressure presses the pads against the disc during braking.
Seal ring. Serves to seal the system.
Cover to protect the guide pin from dirt.
Guide finger. Ensures uniform movement and adhesion of the pads to the disc with the entire plane.
Protective cover. Protects the disc from contamination.

The front brakes of the VAZ 2114 are disc. They provide automatic adjustment of the gap between the pads and the disc.

SOME SIGNS OF ITS MALFUNCTION

The driver should be alert to the following comments in the operation of the brake system:

Liquid leakage from the tank;
The brake pedal sinks when pressed;
The appearance of air in the car brake system;

The manifestation of at least one of these signs should cause an immediate response from the driver to eliminate it.

Restoring the performance of the GTZ is impossible without removing it, so it will have to be removed from the car.

Working principle of brake caliper

The brake caliper performs its main task - it provides the necessary braking force required to slow down or stop the car.

Pressing the brake pedal causes pressure to build up in the brake line. It is transmitted to the caliper pistons, which at this time strictly parallel fixes the pads relative to the disc. When braking, the calipers compress the pads on both sides of the disc, causing it to slow down. But there is another effect. It involves heating, as friction energy is transformed into heat. This significantly heats up both the disc and the pads and calipers. The temperature of the brake fluid also increases.

This effect places certain demands on manufacturers. So the front brake caliper must have the following characteristics:

high heat transfer rates;
strength;
high resistance to heat (so that increased temperature does not deform the caliper components).

Where does the brake fluid go?

The presence of brake fluid (BF) can be determined by the level in the reservoir.
It is advisable that the TJ is always at the max mark. If you notice that the fluid level is dropping, make sure that it does not drop below the minimum. To be on the safe side, a red exclamation mark will light up on the central panel inside the car (most often this happens when braking). If the TJ level decreases, you need to do the following:

top it up;
At the first opportunity, find and replace the faulty element of the brake system.

Features of pedal settings

The driver controls this entire complex assembly with just one pedal.

That is why it is very important to monitor the condition of these mechanisms and correct errors in a timely manner.

It is necessary to pay attention to the following features:

Each owner of this vehicle must remember that when the engine is not running, the pedal must have free play. The adjustment can be made with the vehicle turned off. This can be done by moving the brake light switch and lowering its nuts.
When the switch at the brake light is very close to the pedal itself, this risks the fact that it will not return to its original state. But even here there is a possibility of only partial release of the wheels when the pedal is released.
When it was not possible to correct errors using a brake light and eliminate incomplete release of the brakes, you can simply disconnect the master cylinder at the brake drive and double-check that the adjusting bolt is not too far from the plane to which the flange of this cylinder is attached (the difference can be from 0.2 to 0.25 mm). This size will be optimal for adjusting the pedal.

Diagnostic features

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the readings on the dashboard. As a rule, they react to a malfunction earlier than you are able to diagnose it during operation. So, if there are problems in the brake system, then the corresponding lamp should light up on the dashboard.

When the first signals of a malfunction appear in the brake system, the first thing you need to pay attention to is inspecting the brake cylinder (there should be no obvious signs of leakage on it).

In addition, pay attention to each of the brake circuit outputs, joints, and so on. After an external inspection, check the pressure in the brake system (this can be done using a special pressure gauge).

The pressure obtained during the measurement process is compared with what the car manufacturer recommends. If the measurements show a serious difference, then we can talk about the failure of one of the circuits. It is also worth checking the tightness of the circuit, but this work can only be done with special equipment.

As practice shows, one of the main reasons for the breakdown of the gas turbine engine is its depressurization. This is easy to notice by the appearance of a leak and a characteristic odor. Damage to the housing, failure of the return spring, wear of the cuffs (sealing and inlet) or the assembly mirror - all this is a reason to replace the master cylinder.

Knowing how to identify a faulty brake master cylinder can help you identify the problem early, fix it, and eliminate any risk to life. Good luck on the roads and of course no breakdowns.

Problems that arise with the brakes while traveling are considered critical and must be corrected immediately. The culprit of the malfunction is often the main cylinder, installed in the engine compartment and rigidly connected to the pedal. To find out the cause of the breakdown and repair the unit yourself, you need to know the structure of the brake master cylinder (MBC) and its principle of operation. During the diagnostic process, it is necessary to distinguish and filter out problems with other elements of the system.

Symptoms of a malfunctioning idle speed sensor (IAC)

Unfortunately, the idle air control is not equipped with a self-diagnosis system, so neither the on-board computer (OB) nor the illuminated check engine will tell us about this. But if you encounter the following problems, then the sensor needs to be checked (How to check the IAC?), cleaned (How to clean the IAC?), repaired (How to repair the IAC?) or replaced (How to replace the idle speed sensor?) in case of a malfunction.

Stalls at idle.
Idle speed fluctuates.
When starting a cold engine, there is no increased speed.
It stalls when the transmission is removed from the gearbox.

In principle, all the symptoms of death of ICH are similar to the symptoms of TPD. But the difference is that if the TPS dies, the on-board computer will show an error or the check engine will light up.

Diagnostics and repair

From the signs listed above, it is easy to understand that in most cases there is only one source of problems - rubber products that have become unusable. The cuffs crack and swell, as a result they leak liquid and close the discharge holes. Hence the recommendation: all “rubber bands” of the brake system should be changed at intervals of approximately 100 thousand km, without waiting for critical wear.

Reference. Many auto mechanics express the opinion that after replacing the cuffs, the main hydraulic cylinder will not last long. The statement is true if the car owner purchased cheap, low-quality spare parts or installed new o-rings in the cylinder, where internal wear has formed in the walls.

Before checking the GTZ for operability, make sure there are no other faults:

Inspect the wheel assemblies from the inside for leakage of brake fluid from the working cylinders.
Check the integrity of the expansion tank and the fluid level in it.
Start the engine and at idle speed, press the vacuum take-off pipe to the amplifier. If the engine speed has increased noticeably, there is an air leak and the master cylinder is most likely working.

A clear symptom indicating a breakdown of the main hydraulic cylinder is drops of brake fluid on the body . If you discover a leak, feel free to dismantle the unit and disassemble it to look for the cause. Another common problem - fluid flowing through the seals - is diagnosed as follows:

Open the cover of the expansion tank and place an assistant in the driver's seat.
Listening to sounds in the tank, give the command to an assistant to press the pedal.
If the pedal moves easily and gurgling is heard in the reservoir, liquid is entering there. The reason is that worn cuffs are unable to create pressure in the circuits; liquid seeps through the leaks and enters the container.

Also, problems with the GTZ are indicated by jamming or too little pedal travel.
Sit behind the wheel, press it several times, and start the engine while holding the pedal with your foot. If it sinks to the floor or does not budge, disassemble the hydraulic cylinder. To replace or repair the master brake cylinder, you need to remove the unit from the vehicle. Work is carried out in the following order:

Suck out the liquid from the tank with a syringe. If the cuffs are leaking, press the pedal several times and suck out the excess fluid.
Remove the expansion tank.
It is not necessary to drain all brake circuits. Substituting a small container, unscrew the nut of the first tube and carefully move it to the side, plugging it with a wooden stick.
Repeat the operation with the second tube, unscrew the fastening of the GTZ flange and remove the unit.

Further actions depend on the design of the master cylinder. If the element is completely disassembled, change the rubber seals. Otherwise, you will have to replace the pistons assemblies. Pre-wash the body and all openings with alcohol; do not use gasoline. After assembly, add fluid and bleed the brake system to remove air.

Why change brake discs

Brake discs can be replaced for various reasons. First, replacement is required if the original rotors are worn out. Almost every rotor has a minimum thickness or throw characteristics cast or stamped somewhere in the center section of the rotor. When replacing brake pads, the rotors should always be measured with a micrometer to determine their thickness. If the rotors are worn too badly and are at or below the minimum thickness (or cannot be aligned without exceeding the limit), the disc will need to be replaced (all at once is recommended).

Measuring the thickness of the brake disc (rotor)

Worn rotors are dangerous for two reasons: thin rotors cannot absorb and dissipate heat as well as new rotors, increasing the risk of the pads getting too hot and fading under prolonged or heavy braking. Additionally, thin rotors are more likely to crack and break, which can lead to brake failure.

Another condition that usually requires this part to be replaced is when the rotors are "warped" and cause vibration or pulsation when the brakes are applied - called rotor runout. When the thickness of the disc is more than a couple of hundredths of a centimeter, it pushes the pads during braking. The force is transmitted back through the caliper pistons, brake lines and master cylinder all the way to the brake pedal, creating a vibration or pulsation that can be felt by the driver. The greater the change in rotor thickness, the greater the vibration or pulsation. This is a truly annoying condition, although not necessarily unsafe. The vehicle owner may mistake these vibrations for a problem with the anti-lock braking system.

Unevenly hewn marks on the brake disc due to its runout - the reason for replacing the disc with a new one

Uneven wear and thickness can be caused by severely overheating of the rotor (brake pad or seized caliper), rotor distortion caused by uneven torque or over-tightening of the arm nuts, or even metallurgical defects in the rotor casting itself. High spots on the rotor are often discolored with a dark bluish tint. Regrinding the rotor can restore flat, parallel surfaces, but often hard spots caused by overheating or uneven wear extend to the metal surface. Over time, this will again cause uneven wear and return of pedal pulsation or vibration. Replacing the rotors with new ones eliminates any such problems.

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Increased brake pedal travel

1. Leakage of brake fluid from the wheel cylinders

1. Replace failed parts of the wheel cylinders, wash and dry the pads, discs and drums, bleed the hydraulic drive system

2. Air in the brake system

2. Bleed the system

3. Damaged rubber O-rings in the master cylinder

3. Replace the rings and bleed the system

4. Damaged rubber hoses for hydraulic brakes

4. Replace hoses and bleed the system

5. Increased runout of the brake disc (more than 0.15 mm)

5. Sand the disc; if the disc thickness is less than 10.8 mm, replace it

6. Fluid leakage through the O-rings of the pressure regulator pusher

6. Replace O-rings

Insufficient braking performance

1. Oiling the brake pad linings of Lada Samara 2

1. Clean the pads with a wire brush using warm water and detergent. Eliminate the cause of fluid or grease getting on the brake pads

2. Jamming of pistons in wheel cylinders

2. Eliminate the causes of jamming, replace damaged parts, bleed the system

3. Complete wear of the brake pads

3. Replace brake pads

4. Overheating of brake mechanisms

4. Stop immediately and let the brakes cool down.

5. Using pads with mismatched linings

5. Use only pads recommended by the manufacturer

6. Incorrect pressure regulator adjustment

6. Adjust the pressure regulator drive

How to replace stabilizer struts on a Chevrolet Aveo

Stabilizer struts are one of the elements of the Chevrolet Aveo anti-roll bar.
Their main purpose is to ensure the connection of the main structural elements with the hub or steering knuckle.
Structurally, the stabilizer strut is a rod with fasteners at both ends.
The main purpose of the Chevrolet Aveo anti-roll bar, the element of which is the strut, is to minimize the horizontal vibrations of the car, including cornering.
Symptoms of a malfunction are:

A knocking sound occurs when driving, especially on bad roads.
The car pulls to the side, which leads to the need for constant steering.
The appearance of a noticeable roll of the car when cornering.
Strong rocking of the car, especially when making sudden starts or braking.

Particular attention must be paid to the hinge and boot used. In most cases, it is the failure of these components that leads to the need to replace the Chevrolet Aveo stabilizer bar. There are two ways to check the condition of the rack:

Rock the car. To do this, it is enough to apply force to one of the sides, and if the vibration turns out to be excessive, then the problem exists.
Using the lever, try to influence the rack, first turning the wheel to the side. If play appears, the rack should be replaced.

If a malfunction is detected, it would be more advisable to replace the stabilizer link rather than repair it.

Signs of a malfunction of the main brake cylinder of the VAZ 2114

Welcome, friends, to the DIY auto repair website. The braking system of cars consists of a whole group of components, each of which takes on a specific function. In this case, one of the most important elements is the brake master cylinder. Thanks to its action, the force applied to the system takes the form of hydraulic pressure.

Malfunctions of the main brake cylinder

Malfunctions of the master cylinder can lead to a number of negative consequences. For example, the brakes may become less effective or fail. To avoid these problems, every driver should know how to recognize and fix the problem.