Hi all! Another experiment has come to an end. Last winter, I experimented with removing the gearshift lever linkage. www.drive2.ru/l/4751686/ The reason for this was excessive vibrations on the gearshift lever and clearly audible transmission noises.
The effect of removing the thrust was not bad, the lever dangled a little more when the engine jerked, but at the same time the shifts remained almost as clear as with jet thrust, vibrations were slightly reduced and these same noises completely disappeared. For half a year of such operation, the transmission has never been knocked out. In a word, everything was wonderful until summer came. In the cold season, the rubber on the engine mounts became dull and everything was fine, but in the summer, in the heat, the rubber on the engine mounts becomes much softer and the vibrations of the engine, and with it the gearshift lever, increase.
I decided to return the jet thrust back. In order not to saw or cook the old rod, I decided to buy a new one. Finding it turned out to be not so easy, the sellers looked at me like I was an idiot, like how did you break it?! They offered the assembled drawstring for 750 rubles, but naturally I didn’t want to overpay. As a result, I had to order, and a week later the cherished stick arrived. It cost 200 rubles.
Removing jet thrust from a VAZ 2110 gearbox
Hi all!
In continuing the struggle with vibrations and rattling of the gearbox lever, I decided to get rid of the gearbox torque rod. I decided to return to this problem after the gearbox lever, in which I had once filed a bushing, began to rattle again. www.drive2.ru/l/2052503/ I thought for a long time about how to calm the jet thrust without removing it, and some time ago I converted the jet thrust hinge into some kind of silent block. www.drive2.ru/l/3350393/ I was very pleased with the result of this modification, the creaking of the old joint disappeared and the gears began to fit noticeably better. But over time, I noticed an increase in vibrations on the gearshift lever and transmission noises appeared, the 3rd gear became especially audible, the sound resembled the work of worn gears or bearings. I tried to loosen the tightening on that same silent block, but nothing changed.
Having studied the unit in detail, I realized that no matter how you look at it, jet thrust will always be a source of noise and vibration.
It is attached directly to the engine and here you have the choice of either play of the standard joint and soft gear shifting, or a clamped connection with clear gear shifting and an abundance of vibrations.
After weighing all the pros and cons, I decided to completely get rid of jet propulsion.
You can’t just take jet thrust and throw it away. In this case, the gearbox ball joint cushion will remain loose, and the lever will dangle like a float in an ice hole, and sooner or later the ball joint itself will break.
The easiest way to secure the ball joint would be to cut off the part that holds it against jet thrust and weld it to the retaining bar.
But I wanted to keep the jet thrust intact and I decided to try to cut off the platform from the old collapsed gearbox ball joint and weld it to the retaining bar.
But this area turned out to be too thin and was burned through the welding.
In the end, we still had to cut off part of the jet thrust.
First, I lightly tacked the weld to fit the parts in place.
Source
Gear shift drive rocker from Priora on VAZ 2110
| After the start of production of the Priora, the plant constantly refined the design of the car. So, starting around 2011, AvtoVAZ began equipping cars with a new type of gear shift drive. Thus, the Priora got its own gear knob (and not like on the “ten”), a rocker, a lever axis and other elements of the shift drive. Let's figure out what this modernization of the Priora gave and why this design is installed on the VAZ 2110. |
| 1 | Gear shift knob cover | 21700-1703124-00 |
| 2 | Lever | 21700-1703088-00 |
| 4 | Hinge bushing | 21700-1703226-00 |
| 5 | Thrust washer | 21700-1703371-00 |
| 17 | Control drive assembly | 21700-1703010-00 |
| 18 | Lever arm | 21700-1703082-00 |
| 19 | 21700-1703219-00 | Lever axis |
- No vibrations on the gearshift knob;
- New design of the gear knob with a gray insert to match the interior style.
- Owners who have installed new parts notice a gap between parts 17 and 20. The metal disks 16 are not pressed against the spacers 16 and the lever 20 tightly enough due to the bushing 18. The problem can be solved by shortening the bushing by 1-2 mm.
- Vibrations on the gearshift knob become less, but they do not disappear completely. They say that only cable shifters have no vibrations, but even there there is a rattling of the gearshift knob.
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Removal and installation of jet thrust of a VAZ 2110 gearbox
Hi all! Another experiment has come to an end. Last winter, I experimented with removing the gearshift lever linkage. www.drive2.ru/l/4751686/ The reason for this was excessive vibrations on the gearshift lever and clearly audible transmission noises.
The effect of removing the thrust was not bad, the lever dangled a little more when the engine jerked, but at the same time the shifts remained almost as clear as with jet thrust, vibrations were slightly reduced and these same noises completely disappeared. For half a year of such operation, the transmission has never been knocked out. In a word, everything was wonderful until summer came. In the cold season, the rubber on the engine mounts became dull and everything was fine, but in the summer, in the heat, the rubber on the engine mounts becomes much softer and the vibrations of the engine, and with it the gearshift lever, increase.
I decided to return the jet thrust back. In order not to saw or cook the old rod, I decided to buy a new one. Finding it turned out to be not so easy, the sellers looked at me like I was an idiot, like how did you break it?! They offered the assembled drawstring for 750 rubles, but naturally I didn’t want to overpay. As a result, I had to order, and a week later the cherished stick arrived. It cost 200 rubles.
Together with the rod, I put back the modified hinge, on a Volgov silent block. www.drive2.ru/l/3350393/
As it turned out, this hinge in the cold season was precisely the source of increased vibrations and a conductor of transmission noise. At temperatures below 10C, the silent block became rigid and transmitted vibrations perfectly. With a regular, serviceable hinge, such effects would not have occurred, and the experiment with the removal of jet thrust would not have taken place. For the winter, you will need to install a regular hinge or choose a softer silent block. Of course, you don’t want to remove the modified hinge, because... the effect is very pleasant. The gears are switched on more clearly, and in the warm season it does not transmit any vibrations or noise. I think it will be possible to experiment with the stabilizer bar bushing VAZ 2108-2906079, this is the bushing that is used in the tuning torque joint from Avtoproduct.
This begs the question! Who installed this very hinge, what does it feel like in winter?
Source
Installing a short-stroke cardan
The first step is to purchase the cardan itself. The best choice would be a part from Priora or Kalina. Usually it is included in the repair kit with a boot, so the standard boot from a VAZ 2110 will not fit here.
Required tools:
- Hammer.
- Screwdriver.
- Keys for “10” and “13” (2 pieces).
Work is performed only if there is an overpass, inspection hole or lift. It is also recommended to call an assistant for help, since at the end of the process it will be problematic to independently adjust the position of the gearshift lever.
Cardan shaft mounting location. Here you need to unscrew it with the 13th key.
The work proceeds according to the following scheme:
- Armed with two 13 keys, we need to loosen the clamp on the drive rod and then pull it off the rod.
- The next step is to dismantle the boot. Next, use the 10th key to unscrew the bolt, which is a lock on the standard cardan. Now you can remove the cardan with gentle blows of a hammer.
Important: it is necessary to check the condition of the oil seal. If this is the first intervention in the gearbox, then it is most likely in a worn condition, so it is recommended to change the boot.
- We install the driveshaft from the Priora in the reverse order: put on the boot and install the new driveshaft, securely tighten the fixing bolt, and then tighten the boot. All that remains is to put the drive rod on the cardan rod, but the clamp should not be tightened.
- Now the assistant gets behind the wheel and places the gearshift lever in the optimal position. At this time, the clamp is tightened. Done, the replacement is complete, all that remains is to test the switching.
Refinement of gearbox jet thrust
For a long time I wanted to do something with the jet thrust of the gearbox, the idiotic design of this unit began to seriously irritate me with squeaks and backlashes.
Recently, gear shifting has become slurred, I had to search and get into it, especially in 1st and 2nd gears. Shifts were accompanied by the creaking of this very rod, or more precisely, its hinge. Having accidentally stumbled upon a tuning jet joint, I decided to look for it, but I couldn’t find it in our stores, and the price tag for it was too high
While I was looking for this hinge, I came across an alternative solution on the VAZ forum. Make a tuning joint like a silent block, from a standard eyelet and a Volgov rubber band.
To do this, we needed two front shock absorber rubber bands from Volga. The price is insignificant, about 20 rubles.
We unscrew the standard hinge; in my case, I had to unscrew the rod completely, along with the ball joint of the gearshift lever, otherwise the hinge rested on my pants and did not want to come off the pin.
We throw out the standard rubber band, turn the hinge eye 90 degrees and press the Volgov rubber band into it, it is too short, so we cut the second one in half and press it in next to it. The edges of the rubber bands should protrude a few millimeters from the eyelet.
Source
Tie rod joint, gearbox No. 268
Hello everyone)
This entry is dedicated to a small improvement in the area of gear shifting. And so, we will talk about the gearbox torque rod joint. Many people hear the name of this element in the transmission and do not understand what we are talking about! I visited a lot of stores and the sellers gave me either a gearbox driveshaft or a ball race for the gearbox lever. Let's now figure out why it is needed at all? The gearbox thrust rod is located under the bottom of the car. It connects the base of the gearshift lever inside the car and the gearbox. This ensures precise gear shifting and also protects against spontaneous gear shifting on bumps. The downside of jet thrust on the 2110-2170 is that it transmits quite noticeable vibration from the power unit to the body.
This is especially noticeable on 8-valve engines, at speeds around 2 thousand rpm. This is to blame for the factory torque rod joint, which attaches this rod to the gearbox bracket. Its design is simple - a rubber damper is inserted into a square cage, which in theory should dampen vibrations. However, it is of little use, since the hinge itself is attached to the gearbox through two rigid bushings, which transmit vibrations. Now a photo of where it is located.
Now the tool is needed to dismantle and install it. And here everything is simple, it is enough to have one key for 13 and, of course, a pit (lift).
And this is what a tuned gearbox torque joint looks like.
What can we expect after installing this hinge?
Here is the information stated by the manufacturer: reduction of vibrations on the gearshift lever. The rigidity of the silent blocks is selected in such a way as to ensure a progressive increase in rigidity during vibrations; the service life is more than twice that of a serial hinge. Installed hinge.
I only replaced the nut with a self-locking one. I would also like to add that if you don’t have a Kalinka cardan, I recommend installing one.
Together with a reinforced hinge there will be an excellent effect. That's all.
Bye everyone )
Source
Differences between a short-stroke link
The main differences can be seen even in photographs. We see that the short-stroke rocker has smaller dimensions, namely length. To reduce the stroke length at startup, the length of the transmission under the hinge should be increased. Due to this, we can not only get shorter gears, but also maintain the traction axis in its original position.
The photo shows a self-modernized backstage. As an alternative, you can use a part from other VAZ models.
It is worth understanding that after such tuning, you will need to put more effort when changing speeds. After upgrading, switching will resemble joystick control, which is undoubtedly a plus. In addition to the rocker, you can install a backlash-free cardan, which will also have a positive effect on the smooth operation of the gearbox.
Article on the topic: Replacing the heater motor on a VAZ 2114
What is jet thrust for the VAZ 2110 gearbox needed for?
I have a VAZ 2108 box
I have a VAZ 2108 gearbox, it makes sense to install this traction. There were no problems with self-switching gears
In 8-9-14-15, the engine is rigidly attached to the car body and shakes with it (and with the driver!)
In 8-9-14-15, the engine is rigidly attached to the car body and shakes with it (and with the driver!)
Friedrich
In 8-9-14-15 the engine is rigidly attached to the car body
Is it true? Even on classics, the engine rests on cushions.
In 8-9-14-15, the engine is rigidly attached to the car body and shakes with it (and with the driver!)
By any chance, did you confuse the chisels with the Ford-T?
In 8-9-14-15 the engine is rigidly attached to the car body
There are 4 airbags for 10-12, but there is no front airbag, most likely this is what caused the gears to fly out and the installation of additional jet thrust was required.
Because of this, there is less noise and vibration in the cabin.
I think the fact that the 16 valve engine itself is less noisy plays an important role here.
In practice, it turned out that the jet thrust can be safely removed if all the supports are in order.
On 9k I don’t have enough stiffness of the Createk supports
Try driving with a co-driver, let him hold
Instead of the original silent block, this rod is equipped with a block from a Muscovite and a large washer, and there are no problems with backlash in this unit.
Instead of the original silent block, this rod is equipped with a block from a Muscovite and a large washer
