Refining the expansion tank cap on Kalina will help improve the cooling system. It is no secret that the normal functioning of the main components of the car depends on proper engine cooling. If the tank element in question does not perform its function correctly, pressure interruptions occur in the cooling system.
Due to untimely bleeding of excess air, the pipes begin to leak. The hotter the power unit heats up, the higher the coolant temperature. Excess pressure from the sealed unit must exit through the expansion block and two-way valve.
After the system cools down, a similar process occurs, only with air being sucked inside. The tank cap should be periodically checked for scale, other formations and valve operation. If there is an excessive amount of various contaminants, the valve is deformed, does not perform its function and the system depressurizes.
Technical features of the system
The single-circuit and closed design of the Kalina engine cooling system (SOD) is typical for other VAZ models.
The system is designed to remove thermal energy from heated engine elements using antifreeze or other coolant. The ODS consists of the following functional parts.
- Cooling radiator. Reduces the coolant temperature due to the flow of cold air masses.
- Fan. Used for rapid cooling of antifreeze in the Kalina cooling system.
- Expansion tank. Designed to compensate for the volume of coolant (coolant). The need for this unit is related to the ability of the coolant to expand/contract.
- A pump or centrifugal pump responsible for the forced circulation of antifreeze through the appropriate channels.
- A thermostat whose task is to regulate the volume of antifreeze in the Kalina cooling system.
- The temperature sensor is involved in controlling the cleaning system.
The operation of the cooling system is based on the close interconnection of various parts, elements and sensors, including devices designed to measure oil temperature. The passage of coolant through a large or small circle depends on the engine temperature. In the first case, antifreeze passes through all components of the SOD, with the exception of the radiator. With this type of circulation, the thermostat is closed. As the engine temperature rises, this element gradually opens. Antifreeze, having passed a large circle, enters the radiator. The latter device is cooled by incoming air masses. If this was not enough, a signal is sent to the ventilated block, which begins to forcefully direct air masses towards the cells.
The cooled liquid flows into a small circle. In addition, taking into account the engine temperature, antifreeze is automatically circulated in a small or large circle. At the same time, the optimal operating temperature is maintained, which should be from 95 to 105 ° C. This factor directly affects the performance of the Kalina stove. In this case, it will not be able to deliver masses of warm air into the cabin.
If there are doubts about the operation of the cleaning and diagnostic equipment, it is necessary to diagnose the vehicle, finding out the causes of the malfunction. You can fix the breakdown either with your own hands or with the help of a mechanic.
First of all, it is recommended to check the level of antifreeze in the system. To do this, you will need to open the hood and inspect the expansion tank. It should be filled to half the total amount. If necessary, add antifreeze or completely replace the coolant. In the latter case, you will need to drain the old antifreeze. If there is a fluid leak, you should inspect the engine compartment.
The classic way to improve
To improve the expansion tank cap in this way, it is necessary to remove and disassemble the element under study. In this case, remove the rubber gasket and remove the inner part using a screwdriver or other suitable tool. The lid device itself consists of a housing, a pair of springs and a valve mechanism.
The essence of modifying the part is to trim both springs. The first element is shortened by 1 turn, the second copy by 2. After assembling in the reverse order, you need to check the efficiency of the modernized unit. As a result, the outlet part of the valve will open at a load of 1 bar (it is worth noting that the initial value was 1.7 bar.
).
Correctly performed modification will allow you to blow the lid freely with your mouth on the air inlet and outlet. If the process occurs without difficulty, it means that the part has been improved in terms of preventing the formation of air in the system and the flow of coolant through minimal gaps.
You can modernize the cover of the unit in question yourself, quickly, at minimal cost. The problem occurs not only on the car model in question, but also on other vehicles with similar characteristics.
Refinement of the expansion tank cap on Kalina significantly increases the working life of the cooling system and associated elements. In addition, the modification promotes normal operation of the valve in both modes and prevents freezing of the unit, even in severe frosts.
When the engine cools down, air is supplied through the steam exhaust hose from the expansion tank, this happens mainly in winter. And when the engine is started, air bubbles in the radiator of the stove and the heater does not heat well. The boiling on the stove got a little annoying, so I decided to get rid of it using a water seal on the steam exhaust hose. If in doubt, you can also read here www.lkforum.ru/showpost.p...?p=1158931&postcount=1455 here is also www.lkforum.ru/showpost.php?p=1256887&postcount=2
I took a bolt, cut off the threaded part as much as I needed, drilled it not straight through, and drilled it from the side.
We welded it with tubes (stainless steel), one long tube and one short.
I screwed a nut onto it and painted it for appearance.))
Now the expansion tank: I cut off the plug where the steam exhaust hose from the radiator is connected.
There is no need to drill anything, we cut the thread with an M12*1.75 tap.
And we tighten the water seal so that it does not let through, and we wind the fumka.
Now, instead of air, antifreeze is sucked in through a long tube and air does not enter the cooling system. —We drain the old antifreeze: We unscrew the cap on the radiator in the lower right corner, then open the cap of the expansion tank, and also unscrew the cap on the cylinder block, take out the top radiator hose of the interior heater and blow into it to expel the remaining liquid from the heater radiator. — We rinse: I tightened the cap on the radiator and began to pour distilled water into the cylinder block for flushing, when water came out of the heater hose, I put it in place and tightened it. We started the engine to run for a while so that a large circle opened and drove distilled water through the system (rinse) then I drained everything. — Fill in new antifreeze: Fill in the antifreeze in the same sequence as distilled water. We drive all the air out by placing the car on a hill in front and the left side of the car should be higher, and press on the gas until a large circle opens, it’s somewhere around 102-105 * C. This is the temperature when The thermostat is fully open and antifreeze begins to circulate through the radiator and expansion tank. We look at all the leaks, if there are any, we eliminate them (tighten the clamps). The water seal tube should not be long, it should reach the maximum mark on the expansion barrel, that is, it should be immersed in the coolant by 5-10 millimeters; if it is long, the system cannot expel air through it. I can’t promise that it will work for everyone, but if you do everything correctly, it will work. For me, it circulates through the water seal when the large circle opens. I’m happy as an elephant, the stove heats up perfectly. Thank you for visiting this page.
How to troubleshoot your cooling system yourself
If you notice that a stream of cold air is entering the cabin, you should not delay repairs, especially if the autumn-winter period is upon us.
Improper cooling can be corrected in several ways. Car enthusiasts recommend following step-by-step instructions on the forums:
- Remove the hose from the part responsible for heating the throttle valve.
- Open the expansion tank cap and cover the neck with a clean, dry cloth.
- Blow into the tank.
- Watch the antifreeze trend. As soon as the coolant appears on the horizon, quickly return the hose to its original position and tighten securely with a clamp.
Problems due to a faulty lid
Modifying the expansion tank cap on Kalina allows you to avoid malfunctions of the valve and freezing of the element in winter. Before considering options for modifying a part, you will need to find out the consequences of its malfunctions and how to check it.
Severe clogging of the expansion tank valve leads to pressure buildup, leakage of pipes, depressurization of the system and the formation of air locks. All this affects the operation of the stove and cooling unit. Due to such fluctuations, breakdowns of the pump, thermostat and connecting elements occur.
The functionality of the lid valve can be checked as follows:
- Visually inspect for the presence of rust and other foreign deposits;
- When mechanically pressed, the valve characteristically whistles, signaling the release of air, and after releasing, the norm is to hear a hissing suction sound;
- To check the system for blockage, you need to remove the hose from the upper fitting and connect it to the pump or compressor;
- The injection of the air mixture on the pressure gauge readings should correspond to values from 1.1 to 1.5 kgf/sq.cm.
The final adjustment of the pressure will be made possible by upgrading the cover, which involves cutting off the thick spring of the part and adjusting it to the required air pressure.
The main causes of ODS malfunctions
Refrigerant leakage is mainly due to the following reasons:
- presence of an old clamp;
- old or damaged radiator.
In the first case, the drive is replaced, and in the second, repairs are made.
Check the system connections first
Then it is necessary to check the circulation of fluid in the motor system in question. To do this, you need to see if antifreeze gets into the tank. If the result is negative, the pump is replaced or the cooling system is cleaned with special means.
If the Lada Kalina overheats, auto mechanics identify the following reasons for the current situation.
- The thermostat has failed. To check its functionality, you need to touch the radiator hoses. If the top element is cold and the bottom element is hot, the thermostat is blocked. In this case, a new drive is installed.
- Stuck honeycombs. This problem usually occurs in late spring and early summer. In this case, the radiator is cleaned from the outside.
- Fan malfunction. If this device does not turn on when the coolant is very hot, then you need to check the wiring and relay.
- Presence of air masses in the SOD.
To solve the last problem, you will need to open the expansion tank. Start the engine, periodically press the accelerator pedal until you reach the red mark on the gauge. If the fan turns on, you need to “charge with gas”, then turn off the ignition. If it is not possible to eliminate the airlock using this method, more radical measures are taken.
The plastic engine shield will need to be removed. To do this, he gets up. Use a screwdriver to lower the clamp. Remove 1 of 2 connecting tubes. Then remove the expansion tank cap. It is necessary to blow into the container until antifreeze begins to flow out of the disassembled hose.
If it is impossible to pierce the container, the lid is closed. The tube is put in place. The engine is warming up, the ignition is turned off. Without disassembling the tank cap, remove the heating pipe.
What to do before removing the plug.
GAZ 31 029 Black Logbook About the cooling system
First of all, you need to understand why an air lock forms, for this:
- We check for coolant leaks in the connections of the pipes, if there are any, we tighten the clamps or replace them.
- We check the coolant level in the expansion tank; for viburnums, it is advisable to keep the level at or slightly above the maximum.
- We check the correct operation of the expansion tank plug; if the air inlet plug does not work or with noticeable difficulty, then it is better to replace it; below I will explain in more detail about the plug.
- It is also advisable to check whether the interior heater radiator is leaking; this can be done from inside the cabin by removing the right lower side of the panel under your feet and feeling the floors and the heater block itself.
Self-tuning
Causes of Kalina engine overheating:
- Thermostat malfunction. To ensure their functionality, visually inspect the radiator hoses. If the top is cold and the bottom is hot, the thermostat is locked. In this case, you will need to install a new device;
- clogged honeycombs. In this case, the engine overheats in spring or summer. It is advisable to clean the radiator (external);
- fan failure. The device does not start due to strong heating of the coolant. It is advisable to check the functionality of the relay and wiring;
- air in the system. In this case, open the expansion tank. After starting the engine, periodically press the throttle (to the red mark). If the fan starts, they "ignite with gas" after the ignition is turned off. If the malfunction is not resolved, the power unit screen is removed. First raise the motor, lower the vice. The pipe has been removed. The lid has been removed and the container has been broken. The tube and cap have been replaced. The engine warms up and the ignition turns off. Then remove the heating pipe. Since antifreeze is a toxic substance, it is recommended to drain it thoroughly (following safety precautions). The engine must be cold. A pipe is put on the fitting and air is removed.
If the engine warms up, the Lada Kalina SOD will be updated. Modification of the system consists of installing a 6-hole thermostat. The device is designed to maintain a stable fluid temperature and normalize the operation of heating devices inside the car. If necessary, install a coolant filter or heater tap. To quickly pass antifreeze through the channel (with minimal risk of overheating), an additional pump is installed.
The system under consideration is suitable for short-circuit and open-circuit stoves on a VAZ 2110. In the first case, it will be necessary to throttle the output from the SOD. In this case, the oven will only operate at high speeds. To get hot air from the heating unit, press the gas pedal. If you reduce the heater C/O power, the pressure in the remote control will increase. To do this, use a throttle valve or ball valve. Before installing Kalina SOD in a VAZ, it is recommended to consult with specialists.
To configure it yourself, it is recommended to first study the ODS diagram.
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up to 85 degrees, on average it’s always in this position; in summer in traffic jams it’s 90 – 91 degrees, which is quite comfortable. Turning the fan on controls the ECU logic, and the thermostat has almost no effect here - unless it's stuck. In general, the Grantovskaya SOD is very durable and compact in terms of the thermostat itself, after two years of use there are only positive emotions. He himself is not difficult, in any case, he changed it on his knees in the fresh air in the hot season himself
How much antifreeze is in viburnum - Auto repair
Replacing the coolant on Lada Kalina is recommended every 60-70 thousand km. mileage or once every three years, whichever comes first. There are situations when there is no need to replace antifreeze or antifreeze, however, it is necessary to drain the coolant, as a result, a completely logical question arises about how to drain the antifreeze from the Lada Kalina, carefully, without spilling anything.
The need to drain the coolant may arise when replacing a water pump, thermostat, radiator or expansion tank, while the antifreeze itself does not necessarily need to be changed, provided that it has recently been changed. In this article you will learn how to carefully drain antifreeze from a Lada Kalina engine to reuse it.
How to drain antifreeze on Kalina
- The first thing you need to do is drive into the inspection hole and let the engine cool down if it has warmed up to operating temperature.
- Then you should dismantle the plastic engine boot by unscrewing the six screws marked in the photo.
Then you need to unscrew the hidden fasteners, which are located in the niches of the fog lights (PTF).If you have PTFs, you will have to dismantle them, but if you have plugs, then all you need to do is remove the plugs and unscrew the self-tapping screw marked in the photo.
When everything is unscrewed, remove the plastic boot.
- We place a clean container under the radiator to drain the coolant and unscrew the plastic plug on the radiator. We drain the antifreeze or antifreeze and move on to the second stage.
- Now you need to think about how to drain antifreeze from the engine. This is done simply, we find such a bolt-plug on the engine, substitute a container and carefully unscrew the bolt. We wait until the liquid drains into the container.
That's all! This way you can carefully drain the antifreeze or antifreeze with minimal losses, after which the coolant can be reused.
I recommend letting the drained liquid sit for several hours, so all the impurities and dirt particles will settle to the bottom. When filling, I advise you to filter the antifreeze through a fine sieve, this way you will achieve maximum cleaning of the coolant.
After completing all work, check the antifreeze level in the system and add if necessary. Be careful and after some time check the coolant level again, because after the engine has fully warmed up and the “large circle” of circulation has opened, the level may drop and eventually you will need to refill. Also, avoid air pockets.
Antifreeze replacement in domestic Lada Kalina cars is carried out every 5 years, or after 75,000 km. This task can be completed ahead of schedule when the color of the coolant changes, the radiator is repaired, there is a leak in the system, as well as when other work is performed in the engine cooling system.
Which antifreeze is better and how much to fill in Lada Kalina?
To completely replace antifreeze in a Kalina/Kalina 2 car, you will need 7.8 liters of coolant. At the factory, the manufacturer pours a red composition of the Felix type. To carry out the work, you need to purchase a 10-liter canister of antifreeze or two small containers of 5 liters each.
If the manufacturer filled it with red coolant, then it is not advisable to change it to a composition of another color. Alternatively, the following products can be used:
- SINTEC Luxury G-12 is a red antifreeze, sold in a 10 liter container.
- NIAGARA G12, red, 10 l.
- FELIX Carbox-40. Color - red, 10 l.
- Arctic Circle G12 and others.
All of the above compounds have shown their best performance, so they can be used in Lada Kalina cars.
Replacement process
To replace antifreeze, prepare a standard set of tools. You will need a container for draining the old coolant with a volume of 6-8 liters, a sixteen socket wrench (for dismantling the starter on a car with a 16-valve engine), as well as a sixteen socket.
Replacing antifreeze should be done on a cold engine, which reduces the risk of burns. To begin, release the pressure in the cooling system by unscrewing the expansion tank tube. To gain access to the drain plug, remove the middle mud shield.
Please note that on Lada Kalina cars equipped with engines with eight and sixteen valves, the process for replacing antifreeze differs. Removing old coolant from the radiator does not cause problems. But how to drain antifreeze from a 16-valve engine block? To solve this problem, you cannot do without unscrewing the starter.
If the engine has 8 valves
To change the coolant on a Lada Kalina with an 8-valve engine, proceed as follows:
- Relieve the pressure in the system by unscrewing the expansion tank cap.
- Remove the motor protection to get to the drain plug.
- Find a 6-8 liter container, then place it under the drain hole (located on the right side, at the bottom of the radiator).
- Tighten the reservoir cap to relieve pressure in the system.
- Unscrew the drain plug and allow the fluid to completely drain from the radiator.
Let's look at how to drain antifreeze from the cylinder block of an 8-valve engine. Removing the coolant is carried out in several steps:
- Locate the drain cap (it's located under the ignition coil).
- Take the key to “thirteen” and, with its help, unscrew the drain plug.
- Place the container and wait until the coolant is completely removed.
Important points of improvement
Refrigerant is considered a toxic substance that negatively affects human health. Mechanics advise carefully draining the antifreeze. When carrying out this procedure, you must remember safety precautions and use rubber gloves. Antifreeze drains when the engine is cold. Then the pipe is put on the fitting and the clamps are tightened. Air masses were successfully removed from the system in question.
SOD Kalina needs improvement. Its overhaul involves installing a new 6-hole thermostat. This unit will maintain a stable liquid temperature, normalizing the operation of internal heating devices.
Modification of the cooling system involves installing a coolant filter or heater tap. To ensure that antifreeze passes through the channels faster and the risk of overheating is minimal, you will need to install an additional pump. You can do the tuning of Kalina SOD with your own hands according to the diagram of the engine cooling system.
Types of coolant for Lada Kalina
In Lada Kalina, the coolant must be replaced on a regular basis every 50 thousand kilometers. It is worth remembering that when operating a car in difficult urban or extreme conditions, the coolant should be replaced more often, because the engine operates under increased loads and the antifreeze reaches its potential faster.
In order to choose a high-quality coolant for the Lada Kalina, you must give preference to the original manufacturer, for example, the Cool Stream brand. The car owner should remember that before updating the refrigerant, the used coolant must be drained and the system flushed with a special compound or distilled water. This is, first of all, necessary to remove suspended matter, metal shavings from the bottom of the system and the remains of old liquid.
We recommend: Replacing the front engine mount of a VAZ 2114
Design elements
The expansion tank of the Lada Kalina is made of transparent polyethylene. The system in question is sealed due to the presence of inlet and outlet valves. The Kalina SOD diagram is a coolant pump. The device body is made of aluminum. There is a control hole inside the unit, with which the fluid flow rate is determined when the pump fails.
The engine cooling system of the Lada Kalina car consists of 2 circulation circuits:
- fluid moves through the jacket and radiator (large circle);
- the liquid moves only along the jacket (small circle).
The SOD scheme provides for constant circulation of liquid. This does not take into account the position of the thermostatic valves. The last device consists of 2 valves that redistribute the coolant flow. When the engine is cold, the fluid circulates in a small circle.
A special sensor is used to control the temperature in the system. It is located at the head of the jacket and is connected to a temperature indicator. The Kalina's interior is heated using a heating radiator. The device consists of 2 vertical tanks and pipes arranged in 2 rows (horizontally). The last elements are connected to the tanks using a rubber gasket.
Why does air get into the Kalina cooling system?
How much antifreeze is in the cooling system of a VAZ-2110 with 8 or 16 valves
One of the benefits of buying a new car is that from the very beginning you can see, feel and remember how the car works when everything is working properly.
While the car is new and unusual, it is difficult to say what works correctly in it and what does not. After three to four thousand kilometers, a picture of a normally working machine automatically forms in your head. If something suddenly changes, I notice it immediately. This change does not always indicate a malfunction, but often it indicates its approach.
Something like this happened after about two years of operation.
Visible signs of trouble Typically, the temperature gauge arrow on the instrument panel did not reach the “90 degrees” mark by about 2 mm. Of course, in traffic jams it rose even higher. But when driving, the norm is a little less than 90.
At some point, the picture changed and the arrow began to show a little more than 90. I noted this fact. But there were no other signs of any malfunction.
It was autumn, winter was approaching. Soon I started turning on the stove and made an unpleasant discovery: it was barely heating. And after a couple of days, the murmur of antifreeze in the heater radiator began to be clearly heard...
I spent several days studying the Internet and hardware and now I can tell you the solution to this little puzzle.
The cooling system on the Kalina (and similar ones) has two design defects, due to which at a certain stage of the car’s life air begins to be sucked into it. While there is still not too much air, it slightly disrupts the circulation of the coolant. In order to maintain the heating-cooling balance, the thermostat raises the temperature of the antifreeze.
If nothing is done, air will continue to accumulate in the system and the heater radiator will become air-filled. It stops heating normally. Since she is in the cabin, you can hear “streams babbling” in her radiator.
Design defects:
1. The expansion tank is located below the antifreeze level in the engine.
2. There is no air valve in the expansion tank plug (or it is always inoperative), there is only an emergency pressure valve.
After stopping the engine, the antifreeze begins to cool and compress - a vacuum forms in the cooling system.
While the car is new, all rubber pipes are tightly connected to their fittings. The rubber of the pipes is still fresh and elastic. Therefore, they slightly compress under the influence of the vacuum generated inside and compensate for the change in the volume of antifreeze during cooling.
After two years of operation, the rubber becomes tanned and at the same time the pipes are pressed under the clamps, the connections begin to lose their former tightness. As a result, when the engine cools down, air begins to be sucked through them. It gradually accumulates and - read above what happens.
The simplest "treatment"
1. Tighten all clamps.
2. After the trip, let the engine cool slightly and unscrew the expansion tank cap so that air can flow freely into the system.
You can park the car with the left wheels on the sidewalk a couple more times to help the air pockets escape into the expansion tank.
With an 80% probability, all air pockets will come out on their own and the temperature gauge will again show just under 90.
Try this trick. Just don’t forget to tighten the cork properly the next day!
Complete diagram of the Lada Kalina engine cooling system
The cooling system of the Lada Kalina is one of the main elements of the car's design. Its design and layout are typical for all cars and are practically no different. The main purpose of this design is to ensure timely cooling of the main power unit and prevent its overheating.
Let's sum it up
So we figured out why there is pressure in the engine cooling system, why it can be excessively high or, conversely, low. There is often nothing complicated about checking it yourself, although a lot depends on the car. For example, it happens that the coolant temperature sensor fails. It can provide incorrect data to control devices, thereby misleading the driver. It can show both a high temperature of the power unit and, conversely, a low one. But this will not mean that the system is not working correctly.
If there are any breakdowns in the cooling system, they must be repaired as soon as possible. It is advisable not to operate a vehicle with a stuck cover or thermostat. After all, for some engines overheating is fatal, and major repairs are not cheap at all. In general, it is worth regularly checking the coolant level in the system to ensure that there are no leaks or other defects. It is also recommended to periodically clean the radiators from dirt, as this can cause increased engine temperature.
Reasons for airing the cooling system
Newcomers to car service centers mostly turn to car service centers when traffic jams occur. However, the verdict of gas station service personnel is always the same: a complete replacement of the thermostat or a complete repair of the part is required. Regardless, this is an excellent question that only another specialist can answer.
Why the cooling system may fail:
- If there is a refrigerant leak, you will definitely notice traces coming out. Check the integrity of the clamps and radiator. It may be sufficient to replace or partially repair the device. You can determine whether antifreeze is circulating or not by observing whether fluid flows into the tank. If there is no circulation, be prepared to replace the pump or clean the cooling system with special cleaning solutions. It is better not to use water or detergents that you use in the kitchen - the result is minimal, but it is quite possible to damage the machine.
- The thermostat or its components have failed.
- The radiator honeycomb is dirty.
- The radiator is broken.
- There are traffic jams in the system.
Troubleshooting Methods
Depending on the breakdown, the nature of the repair will differ. If the problem is caused by coolant leakage, then this can be identified, for example, by leaking pipes. Fluid emissions will also be clearly visible in the form of colored streaks on the expansion tank near the plug. In the event of minor damage to the radiator, finding the location of the leak will not be so easy, since the device is blown by a counter flow of air and leaks cannot always be detected.
To simplify the leak detection procedure, it is recommended to fill the system with coolant with a fluorescent additive. Using an ultraviolet lamp you can easily detect the slightest smudges.
Any malfunctions that occur can be resolved as follows:
- If problems arise with the expansion tank plug valve, you can try to clean and rinse it. No results will indicate the need to replace the part.
- If cracks appear on the tank, it will have to be replaced. Sometimes the expansion tank is restored by soldering, but this option is unreliable, since with the next pressure surge the housing may burst again.
Video: how to get rid of air in the cooling system
If any malfunction occurs on the road, you can add antifreeze or, in extreme cases, water and get to the nearest car service center. The exception is a blown head gasket. In case of such a breakdown, you must call a tow truck to transport the car.
Most of the problems that cause coolant to squeeze out of the expansion tank can be fixed on your own. To replace pipes or pumps, you do not need special tools or skills. Repairing more serious damage, such as replacing the cylinder head gasket, will require certain skills, but this procedure can also be performed in a garage without specialized equipment.
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Cooling system diagram and operating principle
Engine cooling system diagram
Therefore, many car owners are familiar with the main parts of the engine cooling system. However, it is worth taking a closer look at what is included in this simple design that does not allow the power unit to heat up:
- Cooling radiator. It is used to cool the heated liquid that has entered it in a large or small circle with the help of a head wind.
General view of the cooling radiator
Cooling fan mounted on radiator
Expansion tank for engine cooling system
Engine Cooling Sensor
Cooling thermostat
Cooling system pipes
Of course, there are also passages in the cylinder block itself and in the head that act as coolant where the fluid is heated. Let's consider the main stages of coolant recirculation through the system: from the radiator along the line, the liquid enters the thermostat, which, depending on the temperature, passes the liquid through a small or large circle. Next, the liquid passes through the power unit, where it enters the pump, which pushes it into the radiator.
Main problems and solutions
The main problems associated with the cooling system include two parts that fail more often than others: the thermostat and the water pump (which checks their operation).
The first is characterized by jamming in a small circle, which leads to frequent turning on of the fan and, possibly, overheating of the motor. In the second - wear of the pulley, as well as the shaft, which, being discharged, begins to release liquid.
Therefore, leaks from the pump may indicate that it is “on the verge” and requires immediate replacement. Frequent overheating and turning on of the fan become a sign of thermostat failure. If such factors occur, it is necessary to replace the part. If the fan does not turn on, it means the relay is faulty or the fuse is blown.
Consequences of untimely replacement of ODS elements
The consequences of premature replacement of cooling system components on a vehicle can be:
- Overheating of the cylinder head, which will lead to rupture of the gasket, and, most unfortunately, to deformation and bending of the cylinder head. Such consequences will lead to grinding of the internal surface and major repairs of the unit.
- In the worst case, coolant will get into the engine cylinders and simply knock. In this case, the owner may agree to a major overhaul or replacement of the main power unit.
Measuring the bend of the block head after the engine boils
These are the main consequences that should be feared, so diagnostics and repair of the cooling system must be carried out every 20,000 km.
Tuning
Many car enthusiasts install sports uniforms on Kalina to improve the performance of the cooling system. Therefore, they can be ordered in stores or purchased at car markets. How do they differ from the standard ODS system:
- an additional electric pump is installed.
- The sports thermostat is made of cermet, so its service life is much longer than standard.
- The sport lines of the cooling system are made of a special material, which also allows for additional cooling.
The basic cost of a sports cooling kit for Kalina is about 20,000 rubles.
Squeezes antifreeze out of the expansion tank
When operating a car with a cooling system, problems sometimes arise that are of various types. One of these is squeezing out the coolant from the expansion tank. There can be many reasons for this phenomenon. Therefore, it is worth dwelling on each of them separately, considering the signs of manifestation and the consequences of untimely repairs.
Cylinder head gasket burnout
The most common problem in which antifreeze is expelled from the expansion tank is the burnout of the gasket between the engine block and the head. The seal can be damaged for various reasons, for example, when the engine overheats. You can determine that a breakdown is caused by a loss of tightness as follows:
- Start the engine and open the reservoir cap.
- If air bubbles come from the main hose when idling, this clearly indicates a problem with the gasket.
Gasket breakdown can be different:
- if the seal is damaged internally, white smoke will be observed from the exhaust pipe;
- if the outer part of the gasket is damaged, the antifreeze will be squeezed out, which cannot be missed by the smudges on the cylinder block.
The second option is a rather rare case. Most often, it is the inner part of the seal that is damaged, and coolant gets inside the cylinder. A gasket failure can lead to serious consequences, namely overheating and engine jamming, as well as water hammer of the cylinder head and the appearance of cracks in the unit housing.
Video: reasons for squeezing antifreeze into the expansion tank
Airing the system
Often, when replacing coolant or depressurizing the system, an air plug is formed, which is an air bubble. As a result, the stove may not work, the engine may overheat, and antifreeze may leave the expansion tank.
You can make sure that the problem is caused by an air lock by applying gas, that is, letting the engine run at high speeds. If bubbles appear in the expansion tank and the liquid level decreases, then most likely the air plug is broken.
Expansion tank malfunctions
There are cases when the coolant leaves directly from the expansion tank, and leaks can be observed on its body or under it. If the tank is located between body elements and a crack has formed in its lower part, then the part will have to be dismantled to identify the leak. The reasons for coolant squeezing out may be the following:
- the tank lid does not close the neck tightly, and the liquid splashes out under pressure during operation of the power unit;
- there are problems with the bypass valve located in the plug;
- A low quality expansion tank is used, which has led to cracks.
The design of the tank is made in such a way that a safety valve is built into the plug, through which excess pressure that occurs in the system during heating of the antifreeze is released. If the valve begins to malfunction, then under the influence of high pressure the coolant will come out through one of the weak points: the joints of the pipes, the threads of the plug.
If we consider VAZ cars of the “tenth” series as an example, then due to problems with the valve on these cars the expansion tank ruptures. In this case, the leak cannot be ignored, since antifreeze will escape in large quantities through the resulting hole, which will also be accompanied by the formation of copious amounts of steam from under the hood.
Pipe defects
As rubber ages over time, the cooling system pipes will sooner or later crack and fail. Antifreeze leakage can be detected when the engine is warm, as the pressure in the system increases. To identify a damaged hose, it is enough to conduct a thorough inspection of each of them. They also probe with their hands the connections between the pipes and the fittings of the radiator, cylinder head, etc.
If a hose leak was not detected, but there is a clear smell of antifreeze in the passenger compartment or engine compartment, this indicates a coolant leak, liquid entering the exhaust system and its subsequent evaporation.
Coolant leak
Often the problem of coolant escaping into the expansion tank is caused by a low level of antifreeze in the system. As a result, rapid heating of the fluid and the motor occurs, followed by overheating. This leads to evaporation of antifreeze and increased pressure in the system. In such a situation, the coolant is constantly distilled into the expansion tank, regardless of the operating mode of the power unit. If the antifreeze level remains the same after the power plant has cooled, this indicates problems with circulation. If the level drops below the MIN mark, this will indicate a loss of system tightness. If there is a leak, you need to identify the cause and fix the breakdown.
Radiator problems
The antifreeze in the cooling system tank may also decrease due to damage to the main radiator. The most common malfunctions of this device are:
- mechanical damage to the radiator honeycomb, for example, when hit by a stone thrown from under the wheels;
- wear of the radiator honeycomb as a result of corrosion;
- long-term operation also leads to breakage of the side plastic radiator tanks.
To detect a radiator leak, you do not need to disassemble anything: the problem should be clearly visible, especially if the tanks are damaged.
Pump damage
If a puddle of antifreeze was found under the car at the location of the pump, then troubleshooting should start with this mechanism. However, it is worth considering that the engine compartment and some components on different cars are protected by casings, and the coolant can leak in one place, and the source of the leak is located in another. A leak from the water pump can be caused by the following problems:
- lip seal wear;
- Damage to the gasket between the pump and the cylinder block.
To more accurately determine the cause of the leak, just reach with your hand to the pump pulley and feel the space under the shaft. If drops of coolant are detected, this will indicate a seal failure. However, this method of checking is applicable only to cars on which the pump rotates from the alternator belt. If the shaft is dry and the cylinder block near the pump is wet, then most likely the problem lies in the seal.
Refinement of the cooling system of the Lada Kalina car
Considering that the owners of Kalina have such a problem, we can assume that this is a miscalculation of the Tolyatti engineers. This design inaccuracy will have to be corrected by the owner.
- Drain the coolant.
- We disassemble and install the plug on the large pipe that connects to the bottom of the expansion tank.
- We install the T-shirt in the lower pipe of the stove.
- We install a pipe of a suitable size, which is connected at one end to the tee, and at the other to the bottom of the expansion tank.
- We install a plug in the return line to heat the throttle valve, and in its place we install an additional tube.
- Additional fittings must be installed in the upper part of the expansion tank, to which a fitting for heating the throttle valve is attached. There is also an option that does not require cutting additional fillets. To do this, you need to connect the new line to the upper branch pipe of the expansion tank using a tee.
- Add coolant slightly above the maximum mark, start the engine and warm it up until the fan starts.
- We expel air from the system, pushing all the lines and, if necessary, add refrigerant to the level.
This overhaul option will prevent the formation of an air lock, and if air gets in during a scheduled repair, removing it will not be difficult. After such an update, a slight negative effect is possible in the form of prolonged engine warm-up. But the undoubted advantages will be a well-heated stove and the absence of air pockets.
Car owners have long realized the need to monitor the condition of the engine cooling system. This also applies to owners of practical Lada Kalina models. Constant monitoring of the operation of all components and components of the engine cooling circuit will allow you to avoid unexpected problems and failures, which, as a rule, arise at the most inopportune moment. Today we’ll look at what kind of engine cooling system is in this car.
Pressures antifreeze through the expansion valve
Hello! Antifreeze presses through the expansion tank and does not return. I ordered a new plug while I placed it under the old wire. When antifreeze is poured from the expansion tank into the radiator, bubbles appear at first, then at any speed there are no bubbles. When the fans are turned on, the antifreeze level in the expansion chamber drops approximately 1 cm from the cap to the minimum mark. Do you think it will cost you to replace the plug or prepare to replace the head gaskets?
It’s unlikely that there are cylinder head gaskets, but at rpm there are no bubbles
But where does the air in the system come from when the plug valve is open? The expansion volume is not enough. Sometimes you have to add water.
Maybe your thermostat just isn't opening? If the antifreeze is thrown through the expander, and the lower radiator hose is cold, then for sure.
The lower pipe and pipes to the stove are hot. There is sometimes a smell of antifreeze in the cabin when the heater is on.
how do you top it up? back to start gradually or topped up, closed, turned on the throttle, opened again, topped up?
air may still enter the system when the coolant cools, if the tube in the expansion tank does not fit tightly, it will suck in air instead of coolant, or from under the radiator cap, if the rubber sealing the boat there has become damaged
refilled, closed, re-opened, refilled. car facing up.
Topped it up, closed it, turned it off again, topped it up again. The car is facing up.
The tube fits tightly; with the jammed lid, the current was pressing through the expansion valve. The area around the radiator cap is dry.
If the cap is jammed, it will not press into the expansion chamber, but will rupture the radiator or pipes. I agree with the post above, look at the thermostat
water went into the expansion chamber, but was not sucked back in. with the wire attached (the valve is open), there is no pressure in the system, but it is sucked back into the radiator.
Is the bottom pipe hot? my (now former) Legaska with the same engine has been riding with wire for almost 2 years
Yes, the bottom pipe is hot. It is not clear why, with a wire, when warming up, the water level in the expansion chamber rises from min. almost to the brim. I'm afraid that there is pressure through the cylinder head gasket, or there is air in the system.
when the fans are turned on it drops back to minimum
Tribeca with the same symptoms. Replaced the cover of the thermostat and pump - the problem was not solved. Although it’s not a fact that the cause is the same, the symptoms are very good. similar.
The owner is going to change the cylinder head gaskets, but I don’t think it will help
miracles do not happen, it means there is air in the system, only it can squeeze out coolant. Jack up the face of the car when it is cold and add coolant. then start and let the engine run for 3 minutes, then some more
Your expansion tank is clean inside. There is no oily residue. What a smell. Doesn't look like exhaust.
If, when cooling the engine, the system does not take coolant from the expansion chamber, then you need to look for air leaks and the reason for this could most likely be the cylinder head gaskets; you can visually determine if there are hints of leaks on the gasket. On mine I cured such a problem by replacing the gaskets, and also did not remove the fluid from the expansion valve. And in order to expel air from the system, you need to put the wheelbarrow with its face in the air, I will say that these dances are a completely empty act if the cooling system is working, you just need to fill the radiator to full and the required level in the expansion tank, and then the engine will sort itself out.
Last edited by Karek; 06/17/2010 at 18:52.
The “health” of the engine cooling system is the key to reliable operation and longevity of the power unit. A sealed, fully operational system ensures coolant circulation, effective heat removal, and maintenance of normal engine temperature conditions. Problems can lead to overheating of the motor, leading to serious malfunctions, expensive repairs or complete replacement. One characteristic of most modern cars is the squeezing of antifreeze (antifreeze) through the expansion tank cap.
Lada Kalina vs Lada Granta
So is there a difference between Kalina and Granta? Undoubtedly. This difference can be explained by the fact that AvtoVAZ engineers, when designing Lada Grants, pursued the goal of introducing all the best from Kalina into the new product, eliminating all the shortcomings and making it cheaper. And so it happened, the base Lada Grant car came off the assembly line at a price 50,000 rubles less than its “colleague” Kalina.
The platform on which the new product is mounted has also been slightly modified. The body structure has increased rigidity up to 12.
The updated rack, which is equipped for the entire model range (except for the basic version), rotates 3.1 turns all the way, while for Kalina this parameter is 4.02 turns.
Better grant management. To achieve this, it was decided to install more powerful anti-roll bars. The inclination of the front suspension strut is the same as that of the motorcycle fork - 2 ° 25 ', the camber of the rear wheel is 1 ° (similar to the characteristics of the Mazda 3), positive toe-in is 10 minutes.
The Grants light block is simpler than its partner. The new product uses H4 type lamps, when the more expensive H7 ones are installed in the Lada Kalina. In addition, in the new product the radiator grille and bumper are made as a single element, while in the Kalina model they are two separate elements, which increases the cost of assembling the car. Along with this, the new product contains a number of other design changes, as a result of which the number of elements of the front part is reduced.
Lada Granta car paint is produced using modern equipment from Germany PPG Helios. The AvtoVAZ company bought it specifically to paint a new car. With the help of this equipment, the car's paint protects it from corrosion with the possibility of long-term preservation of the original color.
As for the Lada Kalina, its main drawback is considered to be the excessive noise of the power unit. As Grants users say, in a new car, even at high speed, you can communicate under your breath.
How to modify the cooling system of the Lada Kalina
Traditionally, the modification of the cooling system on the Lada Kalina is the installation of a new thermostat with 6 recesses, a filter through which antifreeze passes and an oven mechanism tap. Gas station workers also recommend installing another pump. This amount of work requires skills and knowledge in the field of repair. A normal driver does not have them.
Therefore, the craftsmen came up with another way to improve the cooling system. Follow the step by step instructions:
- The hose that was previously run to heat the throttle assembly should be connected to the cooling system.
- Take an extra hose, a tee and enough clamps, then install a smaller diameter connection. This will help ventilate the cooling system and revitalize it.
- It is better to place the air outlet closer to the thermostat; a prepared tee will help with this. It should be cut into the supply pipe of the radiator device.
- Now we move on to processing the second end of the air outlet component, attaching it to the steam outlet, passing next to the RB fitting.
The proposed overhaul of the Lada Kalina cooling system will allow maintaining the temperature while driving the car at a constant level of 90 to 95 degrees. At first, the stove heats up to 50 degrees. How expensive is this method of improving a ventilated cooling system? When purchasing the missing coolant, tees and clamps for 1 m of pipe, it cost 600 rubles. Those who have already tried the overhaul note a noticeable decrease in engine temperature, but previously it warmed up to 100 degrees, and cold air flowed into the cabin from the heater mechanism.
Video instructions on how to change the cooling system of the Lada Kalina:
The first method of modernization
You can improve the expansion tank cap on the Lada Kalina using the method presented below. It is necessary to purchase a FEBI cover (02269)
. The price of the issue will be no more than 150 rubles. The standard Kalina cover should be disassembled and the valve mechanism removed from it. A similar procedure is carried out with the purchased part.
The original valve assembly is sawed down and removed along with the bead that helps center the spring. The Faby valve needs to be ground off no more than one millimeter. This manipulation will allow you to put him in a new place without any problems. The new valve is installed on the standard cover along with a rubber gasket. The part is screwed onto the neck of the expansion tank. The result is a frost-free lid, the production of which took no more than half an hour and quite reasonable financial costs.
The technical side of the coin
it is difficult to understand why Kalina did not remain on the market. In terms of their characteristics, they are practically twins to Grant - a 1.6-liter engine from 87 to 106 horsepower, the presence of a mechanical, automatic transmission and even a robotic version. In both cases, the 98-horsepower version was fully automatic, and the robot assistant was only available in the high-end configuration. But there is still a difference. Kalina was offered in an 82-horsepower version with a manual transmission.
With the same stride and almost the same weight, the size also spoke in favor of Kalina. The Granta was 50 centimeters longer, which played a role when choosing a car in congested areas. 10 Kalin presented 8 grants in the same segment. But what the berry definitely loses is in trunk volume. This seemed especially critical for a station wagon or hatchback, which are traditionally used for country and family trips. 520 liters is much better than 355 or 235. Okay? So fuel consumption and ground clearance are also in favor of the first participant. And don’t forget to mention the fast acceleration to hundreds of kilometers per hour – 11 seconds versus 12.2.
Spacious interior is one of the undeniable advantages of Granta
Thanks to the larger wheelbase, even a large person can easily get behind the wheel of the car, and the passenger does not have to squeeze into a limited space. Driving in a car is also more comfortable, because the plastic in the cabin does not creak or grumble, and sounds from outside are muffled by high-quality sound insulation.
If we compare what's best about the Grant Priora and the Kalina liftback, the Grant is miles ahead of its teammates in terms of cabin quietness. Otherwise, the liftback interior is not much different from the Kalina, and also has some absolutely identical elements.
As for the trunk, the Granta exceeds all expectations here. The volume of 440 liters, from 355 liters to the Kalina, allows you to transport a large number of things, so a comparison of the Grant liftback and the Kalina station wagon will definitely be in favor of the Grant.
Improved cooling of VAZ-1118 “Kalina”
To reduce the likelihood of SOD aeration due to the jamming of the compensation valve of the expansion tank cover, readers suggested removing the valve from it as a temporary measure. We cannot recommend this method as it increases the risk of boiling and overheating of the engine.
A more correct update option has been repeatedly tested and shown to work on cars with a cable-operated throttle valve.
The problem of air removal is solved once and for all.
We wish our readers a warm interior and stable engine temperature!
Basic data for monitoring, adjusting and maintaining the cooling system
Temperature at which the main thermostat valve begins to open, °C | 85-89 |
Full opening temperature of the main thermostat valve, °C | 102 |
Opening pressure of the outlet valve of the expansion tank plug, kPa (bar) | 110-150 (1,1-1,5) |
Opening pressure of the inlet valve of the expansion tank plug, kPa (bar) | 3-13 (0,1) |
Coolant temperature in a warm engine at an ambient temperature of 20–30 °C and a fully loaded vehicle moving at a constant speed of 80 km/h, no more, °C | 95 |
Resistance of additional resistor, Ohm | 0,23 |
Volume of liquid in the engine cooling system, l | 7,8 |
Coolant (mixing liquids of different brands is not allowed) | OZhK-KHT; OZh-40-ХТ; OZh-65-ХТ; OZH-K Antifreeze; OZh-40 Antifreeze; OZh-65 Antifreeze; OZh-40; OZh-65; OJK-KSK; OZh-40SK; OZh-65SK; Lada-A40; OZH-K Tosol-TS; OZh-40 Tosol-TS; OZh-65 Tosol-TS; Antifreeze G-48; AGIP Antifreeze Extra; GlysantinG03; GlysantinG913 |
Specifications
They look like Granta and Kalina. The cars are equipped with almost identical engines. The car can be equipped with a 1.6-liter engine with 87, 98 and 102 hp. An eight-valve engine with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 81 hp was installed only on the Lada Granta.
Exterior view of engine 21116 on Grant
All powertrains of these cars can be combined with a five-speed manual transmission and a Japanese automatic transmission. The chassis of the cars is also similar.
The only difference is in the settings, depending on the characteristics of a particular model.
Body
Video of how both of these cars are painted at the factory:
you need to start comparing these two body style cars. Today Kalina is offered in station wagon and hatchback body styles.
Appearance of Lada Granta
The subsidy applies only to the sedan body. Some car enthusiasts prefer to buy sedans for their classic looks and practicality, while some prefer sedans for their efficiency and compactness.
Kalina in the estate
Station wagons are chosen by those who value a large amount of usable space in the cabin.
We take potatoes from the dacha (photo by comrade Grantovod especially for the site)
It is worth noting that those expecting a spacious trunk from Kalina will be a little disappointed. Its volume is 360 liters versus 400 for Grant. The sedan has even less trunk space: 260 liters.
Equipment
The difference between Kalina and Granta becomes obvious if you look at the car’s equipment. The basic version is already installed in Kalina:
- Electric power steering.
- Short stance.
- 14-inch wheels.
- Cabin air filter.
- Electric windows at the front.
- Athermic glasses.
It should also be noted that Granta in its most expensive configuration is better equipped than Kalina, and at the same time the cost of the cars is almost the same. So, Grant can be equipped with:
- Electric rear view mirrors.
- Fog lights.
- Heated rear view mirrors.
- Electric windows on all doors.
Comparative characteristics
From the above we can draw the following conclusion:
- the grant has a modern platform and greater manageability;
- Granta is cheaper than Kalina;
- Granta top quality paint. Less susceptible to corrosion, retains its natural color longer.
- Compared to Kalina, Granta has better sound insulation, which allows you to talk in the car even at high speed.
- due to the safety and quality of the Grant, it simplifies the blocking of headlights and other parts of the body, but at the same time reduces the price of the car;
Some parameters are worth considering in more detail and comparing.
- Appearance of the car. A quick examination of the new product may seem that Granta is not like other Russian cars. Upon closer inspection, we notice that the side doors are the same as those of the Lada Kalina. Moreover, the sedan bodies of both models are not much different. Grant is recognized only by its larger size and different shape of the bumper and headlights.
- Luggage compartment. As for the trunk, the Lada Kalina remains on the bench. Due to the fact that Granta's body is longer than Kalina's, her torso is much larger. This is just a view of the “lame” trunk, and this is not the first time it has closed. But the size of the trunk speaks louder than its shortcomings, and that's good news.
- Overview of the living room. Kalina users often received complaints about the unbearable creaking of panels, a large number of gaps and backlashes. In the new Lada Granta, these shortcomings have been corrected and the interior makes virtually no unnecessary unpleasant sounds. But the question regarding the plastic of the car is: is it cheap? Despite this, the Lada Grant salon has its advantages:
- nice and pleasant dashboard;
- cup holders installed;
- oversized glove compartment;
- No problems were found in the operation of the heating element.
- Rack. A significant advantage of the Grant over the Kalina is the shortened steering rack. This decision was achieved thanks to the ease of driving of the new car. But there was no place in the car for an ashtray, but all was not lost.
- Power supply. The engines in both cars are almost the same, but the subsidies have some advantages. With the same number of valves per cylinder, the Kalina engine is capable of developing 82 horsepower, and the Granta - 90. Such figures can be explained by the fact that the latter has a lightweight connecting rod-piston assembly. The Granta's power unit works faster than the Kalina and there is no additional noise.
- Safety system. It is worth noting that the Granta has two airbags, which cannot be said about the Kalina, and this is a good indicator, considering the new product as a budget car.
In addition, the new product, like its competitor Lada Kalina, will exist in a sedan body. The Grant sedan looks younger, but the Lada Kalina is more functional in terms of transporting large loads.
Problems and methods for solving them
There are few actual reasons for failures and deviations in the functioning of the cooling system in LADA Kalina. Liquid leaks are the most common. They can arise from loose clamps on the pipes, through the gasket or seal of the pump, a broken radiator (also in the heating circuit), etc. Copper radiators used to be subject to repair, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to successfully restore a modern aluminum product. The clamps can be tightened, and if it doesn’t help, they can be replaced, fortunately this is a cheap idea. The radiator is much more expensive, so replacement may be burdensome, but there is no other way.
How to change the running light bulb on a Grant
Granta gearbox with cable drive
Installation of alarm system on Lada Granta
Sometimes the engine cooling system can become clogged. This will require cleaning followed by a complete fluid replacement.
We will also consider other problems that arise in the cooling circuit of the Lada Kalina.
- Thermostat. An effective diagnostic measure would be to manually touch the pipes connected to the radiator. If the lower radiator hose does not warm up on a warm engine, then we can safely state that the thermostat has failed. The valve stopped opening, preventing the liquid from circulating in a large circle. The only way out is to change the part.
- The radiator honeycombs are clogged. Here you also need to resort to cleaning. In spring and summer, debris clogs the honeycombs, making the radiator ineffective in terms of cooling.
- The fan has failed. The first step is to check the integrity of the wiring and the serviceability of the relay in the Lada Kalina with an 8 or 16 valve engine. Most breakdowns point to these components.
- Airing of the system, the so-called air lock. Often air can get inside the circuit, forming plugs. Airing of the system can often be observed after replacing antifreeze. To combat this phenomenon, open the reservoir cap and raise the engine speed (accelerate). If the traffic jam cannot be removed, we try to raise it in front of the car (as high as possible) and continue to practice with the accelerator. Blowing out the tank until liquid appears from the fitting also helps.
Dynamics and handling
There is no data on this, but the 4x2 formula indicates a lack of off-road characteristics. The ground clearance of these cars is quite high: 160 and 180 mm, respectively, so light off-road conditions will not be a problem for them. Unless, of course, after a long stay the wheels don’t get stuck and spin. Security comes with several options. It is also possible to install an alcohol lock, which will prevent the engine from starting if vapors are present. The cars are equipped with standard solutions, including child seat mounts and keyless engine starting. In more expensive trim levels you can find a higher level of alarm than in previous models.
Tools
The following tools will be needed for work:
- Set of keys (including wrench, extension and sockets);
- Container for draining coolant;
- Hose;
- Syringe;
- Double sided tape.
As for the tank itself, it is recommended to buy a product of a new design - this is a reinforced tank, which can be purchased under article number 11180-1311010-10. Its price is low and does not exceed 300 rubles.
Who has more choice of engines and gearboxes?
Since 2011, the powertrain models are almost identical. Both are equipped with 1.6-liter engines producing 87, 98, 106 horsepower. The difference in the amount of “horsepower” under the hood is achieved by modifying the engines and timing. But the Granta in the Sport package has a special 16-valve unit with 118 hp. Together with.
As for gearboxes, the sons of AvtoVAZ have two – 5 manual transmissions (modernized, cable type) and 4 automatic transmissions from Jatco. True, in 2018 Granta also received the Robotic 5 gearbox. And soon after Kalina 2, it also inherited the “robot”.
Which car is right for you
If, after reading the article, you have not yet been able to compare the liftback Kalina and Grant and have not decided which car is best for you, then pay attention to the most basic nuances:
- Appearance of the car. This is important, because every day you drive, and not someone else.
- Price. Think carefully about what you are willing to pay and what you think is not necessary. Based on this, select the appropriate package
- Characteristics. Decide what is more important to you: power and speed or comfort and maneuverability on difficult roads? Maybe the size of the trunk and space in the cabin? Do you want to show your friends the dynamic design of your car and easily fly around the city at night or just comfortably move from point A to point B? Only by thoughtfully and sincerely answering these questions will you be able to choose a car that completely suits you in all respects and that will become a real “friend on wheels” for you!
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