How to quickly and easily replace a generator bearing on a VAZ 2110?

AvtoVAZ, as a domestic manufacturer of passenger vehicles, has a controversial reputation among car enthusiasts. On the one hand, their cars are loved for a relatively low price, and this applies to both the cars themselves and subsequent operation.

On the other hand, this is, in fact, the only thing you can love them for, because in all other characteristics the Lada is hopelessly behind its foreign competitors. At the same time, two decades ago it set the pace of development in some areas and gave a head start to some overseas colleagues. However, the concern itself admits that their creations are not intended to set speed or roadability records. These are cars for every day, which, as they say, are not a pity - they do not lose their visual appeal even after external damage, because they do not have it, and repairing them, as a rule, is not difficult even for a novice car user.

VAZ-2110 is a very common model, especially on the secondary market. It cannot be said that it stands out as something special even against the background of its fellows, but it looks much more fun than the same “seven” or “nine”, which for more than 30 years have not undergone any changes either in the interior or in the technical component. In addition, the “ten” is distinguished by relatively good reliability of its components, and this applies not only to small consumables, but also to spare parts for the gearbox and internal combustion engine. However, of course, it cannot be done without problems: both due to natural wear and tear and as a result of other reasons, various types of breakdowns occur. A common problem on such cars is the need to replace bearings.

Of course, you can go to the nearest service station and ask its technicians to service your “ten,” but replacing generator bearings is not a procedure that requires enormous effort.

If you bring a VAZ-2110 to a service station, it won’t require any effort at all, but it will require a certain amount of money, albeit not that much. However, you can replace these parts yourself, thus not only saving money, but also gaining experience in independently servicing your car, which will undoubtedly be useful in the future.

When replacement is required

If you hear creaking and howling while the generator is running, then you have discovered the main sign of bearing failure. The only correct solution is replacement.

Creaking and howling occur due to the fact that the bearing separators lose lubrication, they wear out, and are destroyed as a result of prolonged use under heavy loads.

Sometimes a thin creaking sound can be heard from the generator, which is often confused with bearing failure. In fact, it could be the timing belt pulley or the water pump. Because to make sure, just remove the belt. If the sound remains, then the culprit is the bearing.

What to use

Before you start replacing the bearings on the generator, you need to determine what elements are on your car, as well as what they can be replaced with.

When choosing bearings, pay attention to the hub manufacturers. For VAZ 2110, bearing hubs are produced in the city of Samara and are marked SPZ-4. But there are also Vologda and Saratov hubs marked 23 GPZ and 3 GPZ, respectively. It is not recommended to purchase bearings with unmarked hubs, much less use Chinese generator elements.

Dimensions

It will not be superfluous to know what dimensions the standard front and rear generator bearings for your “ten” should have in order to make sure that the spare parts are selected correctly.

The rear bearings of the new type, marked 6203, have the following dimensions:

• Inner diameter - 17 millimeters
• External diameter - 40 millimeters
• Width - 12 millimeters.

We recommend: Repair of power windows on VAZ 2110

The front bearings marked 6303 have the following dimensions:

• Inner diameter - 17 millimeters
• External diameter - 47 millimeters
• Width - 14 millimeters.

Based on the dimensions, you can understand why rear and front bearings are often called small and large, respectively. It’s easy to visually distinguish them from each other, so you definitely won’t confuse the elements when replacing them.

Disassembled device

How to reduce noise without tuning

If you'd rather avoid making any changes to the generator itself, there are still ways to muffle the sound.

1. Installation as far as possible

It is so simple. The further you go, the less likely you are to hear it, so use longer extension cords if possible.

1. Create a Soundproof Box

Assembling a generator box not only prevents sound from spreading, but can also serve as a space to store the generator outdoors.

Remember that fuel-burning generators require adequate ventilation to prevent dangerous levels of carbon monoxide from building up. Fire retardant insulation material is a good material for this.

1. Install sound deflectors

Sound deflectors are solid materials that reflect sound waves in a different direction. In some cases they are used to create a more direct line towards you, but in this case you obviously want to adjust the deflectors so that they move away from you and your home.

1. Install the generator on rubber

Some noise simply comes from vibrations, so if the alternator shakes less, that can also reduce noise. A simple rubber mat under the generator is enough to reduce vibration or purchase a special anti-vibration mat.

Alternatively, buy rubber feet

The best option is to use several noise reduction methods at the same time. The generator will never be completely silent, but these tricks can reduce the uncomfortable noise level.

Generator bearing replacement process

General view of the front and rear bearing of the generator

Existing play indicates that the bearing has indeed failed.

So, let's consider the step-by-step process of replacing a product with a VAZ-2112.

1. We place the car on a pit or overpass. The main thing is that there is access from below.
2. We dismantle the “minus terminal”.
3. Remove the generator belt.

   Pull the alternator belt through the slot

4. To further carry out the work, you will need to dismantle the generator itself.
5. Disconnect the appropriate wires to the generator.

   Disconnect all wires that go to the generator

6. Loosen the nut that holds the tension bolt.
7. Remove the adjusting bolt.
   Unscrew and remove the generator adjusting bolt
8. Remove the lower engine protection.

   We dismantle the engine protection

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9. Unscrew the 2 lower mounting bolts.
10. We are dismantling the generator. It comes out through the bottom.

    We unscrew the fastenings and dismantle the generator

11. When the generator is in your hands, you can put it on the table. Now, you can proceed directly to the repair.
12. Having blocked the rotor from turning, remove the pulley.
13. We dismantle the casing.
    To do this, you need to pull back the latches. Block the rotor and unscrew the pulley
14. Remove the front and back covers.

    Generator disassembly diagram

15. Now feel free to move on directly to replacing the bearing.

    Using a hammer, knock out the rotor from the cover along with the bearing

16. The product can be dismantled using a special puller, or simply by knocking it out of its seat.
17. Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Replacing bearings

1. We clean the load-bearing elements well.

   Disassembled generator

2. Apply sealant to the seat.

   Applying sealant

3. We press in new bearings.

   One bearing is pressed in

4. The most difficult part is to press in the inner bearing. First we remove it. There is a puller, but if it is not available, then we use a regular key.

   Removing a bearing without using a puller

5. We put on a new one.

   New bearing ready for use

Next, we assemble the generator and install it back!

What bearings are on the VAZ-2112 generator?

The choice of bearing should be taken seriously, since the stable voltage in the on-board network, as well as the wear of the generator itself, depends on this part.

Since there are 2 bearings in the unit - front and rear, each of them has its own markings and dimensions.

So, the front ones are marked - 6302 or 6303, but the rear ones - 6202 or 6203.

Generator front and rear bearings

Since there are many fakes on the automotive spare parts market , especially with regard to bearings, when choosing, you should pay special attention to the production of this product. The wear of many other parts of the generator will depend on the quality. Therefore, it is recommended to check the availability of a quality certificate, as well as the presence of markings and holograms.

Original

6303-10B is the original catalog number of the generator bearing for the 10 series of Lada cars produced by AvtoVAZ. The average cost of a product is up to 150 rubles .

Analogs

Not original bearings, strip, and plug. Vologda bearings VBF

In addition to the original, you can buy a substitute product. Of course, now bearings can be selected depending on the size or number, but manufacturers of analogues still decided to produce high-quality products for cars.

Reasons for failure

There are several reasons for generator bearing failure:

• Wear . Like any part, the generator bearing fails during operation.
• Violation of the rules of operation and maintenance will lead to the product failure.
• External factors such as dirt, salt and road chemicals lead to the part being subject to increased wear.
• Poor quality can cause premature failure.
• Lack of lubrication. The grease may have dried out over time.

  The lubricant is almost invisible

Which bearings are better to install?

As a rule, KATEK brand generators were installed on cars of this model from the factory. It may also be suitable for spare parts from some other domestic and foreign manufacturers. It is not recommended to use original bearings from the Samara and Volzhsky plants (VBF and VPZ), as well as Chinese ones, due to poor lubrication and short service life. Products from German brands DAS LAGER Germany and FAG, French brands SNR, Japanese brands NSK, NTN and Kouo, as well as Polish Craft are considered to be of good quality.

Price of bearings for VAZ 2110 generator

The price of a VAZ 2110 generator bearing is very low. It starts from about 100 rubles for the rear and from 150 rubles for the front. Here a lot depends on the manufacturer of the parts. Russian-made spare parts are considered the cheapest. Products of foreign brands are more expensive, sometimes twice as expensive.

Why is the 2110 generator needed and how does it work?

The tens generator is an ordinary, most banal three-phase dynamo. Like an electric motor, but in reverse. The generator is driven by the crankshaft pulley and produces a nominal voltage of 13-14 volts at its output. at least it should give. Stop. Therefore, then it is three-phase, if we need constant +12, and not alternating current? very simple.

To answer this question, you need to find a grandfather who has a Moskvich 403 in his garage. Watch him when he goes fishing at five in the morning and ask him to open the hood. The atomic warhead, which takes up half of the engine compartment, is the DC generator. If grandpa doesn't come out for a long time, here's a photo of this generator.

Naturally, a modern car, even a dozen, cannot afford the luxury of devoting half of the engine compartment to a generator, so it has to convert alternating current to direct current. Alternating current generators are always several times more compact. And to convert it to a constant voltage, there is a rectifier unit in the generator housing itself. It is he who converts the change into the +12 volts we need. A more detailed picture of the generator structure for the curious is here:

For now, we’ll talk about malfunctions, mechanical malfunctions that can take a car enthusiast by surprise.

ENGINE SIZE

Typically, the larger the engine, the louder it runs, which also means that larger generators can make more noise than smaller ones. This is why, for example, a heavy duty 8000 watt portable generator has a higher decibel rating than a 2000 watt version in the same range.

However, there are exceptions. The Home Standby model is very powerful, but it comes with noise-canceling technology so it can be installed very close to your home without being too noticeable.

There are also inverter hybrids that have a higher capacity than traditional open frame inverters, making it lighter. This is a good alternative to regular portable generators if you are concerned about decibel levels.

What do you need to know when choosing new parts?

Initially, in the design of the 2110 generator, as mentioned above, two bearing devices are usually installed. In older versions of the car, parts marked 6302 or 6303 (these are front units), or 6202 (rear units) are used; in more modern versions, 6203 bearings are installed at the rear.

As for the sizes, they are as follows:

• for 6303 (or the domestic analogue under number 180302) the dimensions are 17*47*14;
• for marking 6302 (or domestic analogue 180303) - 15*42*13;
• for marking 6202 (Russian parts are marked as 180202) the dimensions are 15*35*11;
• for 6203 (domestic equivalent - 180203) dimensions - 17*40*12.

Reasons for failure

There are many reasons for bearing failure, but there are several main reasons, which are discussed below.

Wear

Wear is a typical cause of bearing failure, since the number of revolutions of the generator rotor is huge over the Nth period of time. Consequently, the lubricant in bearings under the influence of high temperatures loses its properties and the bearing ceases to receive the required slip coefficient, which causes heating and increased clearances in the ball part of the bearing.

Belt tension

Excessive tension on the alternator belt greatly affects the life of its bearings. It is necessary to tension the belt correctly, observing all norms. The generator belt should bend under the influence of 10 kg. by 5-7 mm.

What types of bearings are in the top ten: part numbers and sizes

Bearings in generators of VAZ 2110 cars are closed type, ball, single row, have a double-sided seal.

• The front marking is 6202 2RS (in domestic catalogs under number 180202).
• Rear bearing - 6103 2RS ​​(aka - 24940220).

An important point: when choosing bearings, you should pay special attention to the manufacturers of their hubs. Typically, VAZ 2110 bearing hubs are produced in Samara, their marking is SP3-4.

You can also find hubs on the market from 23 GPP (this is Vologda) and 3 GPP (this is Saratov). It is strictly not recommended to buy bearings on which the hubs are not marked. You also cannot buy Chinese generator bearings, which are now found everywhere, since the quality of these bearings does not stand up to criticism.

Parameters and design

The basis of the operation of each car, along with the power plant, is an alternating current generator. Like any other automotive equipment, this unit has its own characteristics, functions and features. An installation for generating electricity is one of the most reliable devices, especially considering the quality of components and assembly of domestic cars. The generator is able to withstand constant vibrations from the engine, sudden temperature changes and the ingress of moisture and dirt without any consequences, because protection is not always effective. The electric current at the output always remains constant - regardless of what modes the power complex operates in and at what speed.

The generator set has general requirements. The vehicle's on-board network is provided with a stable electrical voltage, regardless of the conditions under which the power unit operates. In this case, the battery must not be discharged. On the contrary, simultaneously with the power supply to the on-board network, the battery is recharged.

Insufficient electric current or its unstable generation will lead to constant undercharging of the battery and, as a result, difficult starting of the engine, especially at low temperatures. Excessively high voltage generated by the generator also does not bring anything good, causing premature failure of the battery.

Principle of operation

The generator is not the most complex mechanism; everything about its functioning is quite simple. After turning the key in the ignition switch, the following processes occur.

1. An electrical impulse is received at the contacts and then transmitted through an assembly with graphite brushes to the armature winding (rotor).
2. The rotor shaft begins to rotate synchronously with the crankshaft, a magnetic field is formed in the windings, which is transmitted to the stator winding. As a result of this process, an alternating current voltage appears at the stator output contacts.
3. After reaching the optimal rotation speed, the self-excitation phase of the generator begins. This means that electric current begins to flow to the rotor winding from the generator set.
4. Passing through the rectifier block (diode bridge), the alternating current is converted into direct current. This voltage can already be used to recharge the battery and power the energy consumers of the vehicle’s on-board network.

The voltage regulator does not start working immediately, but after the vehicle starts moving, i.e., when the speed and load on the device becomes unstable. The regulator's task is to turn on the excitation of the rotor winding at a certain moment when it is required. The excitation switching time depends on external loads and on changes in rotor rotation, i.e., when these parameters decrease, the time decreases, and when these parameters increase, the time increases.

There are cases when the energy consumption of the on-board network exceeds the capabilities of the generator set (connecting a powerful speaker system, lighting, etc.). In this case, with a working generator, the battery begins to supply the missing voltage, which inevitably leads to chronic undercharging and rapid failure of the battery.

The functionality of the device is indicated by a special lamp on the instrument panel. If there are problems with charging, the lit icon will notify you in time.

How the unit works

The rated voltage of the car's electrical network is 12 V. At the same time, the rated current of a standard VAZ 2110 generator is 80 A, and the rotor speed is 6000 rpm. The standard device is compact in size, which is not surprising given the low current.

Structurally, the device consists of several main parts

Most generator sets have such a device, regardless of how many amperes they are rated for. Differences may be in fastening methods, pulleys, and covers. Otherwise, all models are identical.

The resource of the standard VAZ 2110 generator is declared by the manufacturer to be at least 10 thousand kilometers.

This equates to 10 years of operation, provided that the rules of use of the device are followed according to the manual. When choosing an alternative option, you should take into account the number and power of energy consumers in the on-board network. So, for a standard set, 80 A will be enough, but when using, for example, powerful acoustics, it is better to pay attention to 120 A.

Dismantling and disassembling the generator (in detail)

Work order:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Next, unscrew the terminals of the device itself, having previously unscrewed the fastenings of these terminals.
3. We study the diagram of the generator fasteners in order to begin removing the unit.

4. Then remove the crankcase guard and get under the car.
5. Next, unscrew the fasteners securing the generator to the frame (positions 5 and 2 in the diagram).

6. While unscrewing the last fastener, hold the mechanism with your hand.

7. Remove the unit, remove dirt and wipe with a rag. Lubricate the threaded connections with WD-40.
8. Use a screwdriver to remove the rear plastic cover on the generator.

9. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the voltage regulator and brush holder fastenings.

10. Remove the pulley from the axle and clamp the product in a vice.

11. Using an adjustable wrench or other wrench, unscrew the nut on the pulley. To prevent the shaft from spinning, insert the hexagon into a special recess at the end.

12. Remove the washer and, having unscrewed the corresponding bolts, disassemble the unit body.

13. Remove the plastic cover and then the front ball bearing to access the armature.

Useful tips

During operation, moisture gets onto the generator, so when dismantling and disassembling, information on how to lubricate the threaded connections is relevant. For this purpose, a WD-40 spray has been created, which is used to treat detachable connections 5 - 7 minutes before unscrewing.

Before replacing bearings, you should inspect the components:

• collector rings, brushes and brush holders;
• diode bridge and voltage regulator;
• stator winding and armature magnets.

Grease LM50

In second place is the SKF lubricant modification LGWA 2 worth 950 rubles, in the third position of the ranking is the EP 2 product from Gazpromneft (issue price 175 rubles).

Thus, it is better to change the front bearing of the generator together with the cover of the same name. A puller is required to remove the rear bearing. However, all repair operations can be performed independently in the garage.

Replacement

The procedure cannot be called complicated, but it is very important to strictly follow the instructions. Based on our recommendations, as well as video tutorials, you can carry out the replacement yourself without any problems.

You have already found out what bearings are on VAZ 2110 generators, purchased a set of new spare parts, so you can start repairing.

Dismantling works

Front bearing

1. Slightly unscrew the mounting nut on the generator, and also loosen the adjusting bolt.
2. Reset the alternator belt and start the engine. This will allow you to verify that the problem is with the generator.
3. If the noise disappears, then we move on. There is still a lot of work ahead of you.
4. Let's move on to the battery, from which the negative terminal should be removed. This is important from a safety point of view and protection against accidental short circuits during repairs.
5. Once the terminal is removed, unscrew all the wires going to your generator.
6. If you have a crankcase guard, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove it. This will allow you to reach the lower mount of the generator and remove the device. Remove the generator by pushing it through the engine compartment.
7. Using a regular screwdriver or other handy tool, you need to block the generator rotor and then unscrew the pulley.
8. The next step is to look for special latches. By pulling them to the side, you will be able to dismantle the device body.
9. Next, the generator brushes are unscrewed, as well as the mounting bolts holding the halves of the generator assembly. There should be 4 of these bolts in total.
10. We recommend marking both halves of the generator housing to avoid problems during reassembly.
11. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the cover and remove it.
12. Practice shows that it is more convenient to remove the rotor from the front cover bearing in the following way. Take a nut and screw it onto the rotor threads. Then hit it with a hammer, first placing a wooden block under it.
13. Find a part whose diameter will coincide with the diameter of the bearing being removed. For example, a 27 millimeter head may be perfect.
14. Gently start tapping the element so that the bearing comes out of its seat.
15. Take the new bearing and prepare to reinstall it.
16. The first step is to treat the new bearing with lubricant so that it lasts as long and reliably as possible.
17. To install a new component, you will need the old bearing. Place it on top of the new device and lightly tap with a hammer to install.

That's it, the front bearing has been removed and replaced. Let's move on to the back.

Press-fitting

Rear bearing

• To remove the rear element, you will need a special puller;
• If you don't have a puller, you will have to knock out the component with a chisel. An alternative option is a metal rod and a powerful, strong screwdriver;
• The selected tool is used to strike the bearing with a hammer. Here you definitely need to move along the surface, moving in the opposite direction;
• Some people can easily cope with dismantling; they use a regular strong open-end wrench;
• Now take the socket that you used to remove the front bearing and the old generator element that was removed. With their help, a new bearing is driven into its seat;
• If you don't like this method, use a tubular wrench or a metal pipe whose diameter matches the diameter of the rear bearing.

Having finished the work, all you have to do is assemble the assembly, following the steps in reverse order. You should start with the front cover of the generator, followed by all other components of the assembly.

If you carefully study the instructions, watch training videos, understand the structure and operating principle of the generator, replacing its bearings will become a fairly simple repair job for you, which will take no more than an hour of your time.

After completing the replacement, be sure to check the machine for noise. If everything was done correctly, the next operation to change the bearings will not be required soon.

Replacing the generator bearing on a VAZ-2112 is quite simple with your own hands. However, to complete the process you will need some knowledge of car design and auto electrics. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the part, since low-quality components fail much faster than more expensive high-quality ones.

Additional recommendations for replacing rotor ball bearings

1. Reasons for ball bearing failure (for subsequent replacement):

1. Wear of parts to failure (service life from 100,000 km);
2. Ingress of dirt, abrasive particles, moisture;
3. Damage to sealing protective washers, separator;
4. Drying of the lubricant, insufficient quantity;
5. Development of landing surfaces;
6. Corrosion on rings;
7. Low-quality steel (non-metallic inclusions, inconsistency in hardening, hardness);
8. Inconsistency in the processing accuracy of rings, micro-geometry of raceways, balls;

1. Before reassembling, check the condition of the internal elements of the mechanism (brushes, contacts); they should be changed at the same time;
2. Additionally, it is recommended to check the condition of the clutch release ball bearing and the hub bearings on the VAZ.
3. If, when unscrewing the pulley nut, it turns, insert a screwdriver into the groove of the cover, thereby stopping the rotor.
4. When tightening bolts, lubricate them with graphite lubricant.
5. Be sure to watch useful videos on how to correctly change bearings on a Lada model fourteen, as well as how to improve and strengthen the generator.

Improving the VAZ generator

Replacing generator bearings 2114

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Bearing 330802 (1НР16092)

Radial double-row bearing, combined, ball-roller (one row of balls and one row of rollers), the coding of which is subject to separate rules. The product has a double-sided seal and a roller instead of an inner ring. Bearings of this design are also called “pump”, since they are used in water pumps of cars (VAZ), which have a second name - pump. Another name for them is “popsicle”. Full marking is 6-1НР16092EKС17, but may differ between different manufacturers and depending on the design features. Thus, the Vologda plant completely switched to a foreign-brand system of symbols. A product with the outdated marking 330802 indicates exactly the same bearing, and is often sold in illiquid quality.

6 - degree of accuracy, HP indicates that the rolling elements are balls and rollers, the first number 1 is a smooth roller with an annular groove on a long ring, 16 and 115 are sizes. E - polyamide separator, K - design, 17 - type of lubricant used in production (Litol-24).

The bearing is produced at two factories in the country, both of which are famous for their high quality products - VBF (23 GPP, Vologda) and SPZ (Saratov Bearing Plant, 3 GPP), however, at the latter they have been discontinued, although many still have them in stock companies. To purchase them in bulk, you can contact EPK or VBF dealers in your region (some also carry out retail sales). The approximate price is about 130 rubles.

The bearing is used in the pump (water pump) of front-wheel drive VAZ cars - 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111, 2112, their modifications, as well as in such outdated models as VAZ 1111 "Oka", "Tavria", LuAZ and some others.

Dimensions and technical parameters of bearing 330802 (1НР16092)

Inner diameter (d) - 16 mm;

Outer diameter (D) – 30 mm;

Width (B) – 39/92 mm;

Dynamic load capacity - 6.5/12.7 kN;

Static load capacity - 2.7/11.8 kN;

Rated rotation speed: 10,000 rpm.

There are currently a variety of brands and manufacturers of water pumps on the market; each manufacturer claims that its products are the best. We will try to impartially figure out what’s what, and consider one of the most popular items - a pump for front-wheel drive eight-valve VAZ cars.

To avoid any confusion, let's clear things up right away. Eight-valve engines on front-wheel drive VAZs were constantly modernized and changed, so the pumps listed below are suitable for all engines equipped with the so-called “eighth” timing belt. If we take it by model, then these are VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 21013, 21014, 21015, as well as Kalinas and Prioras of the first years of production.

We purchased seven samples of pumps from different manufacturers - both domestic and foreign. But before we start introducing the products, I would like to explain some of the terms that are used below.

The impeller is a low impeller, which is located on the reverse side of the main impeller, its purpose is to relieve the shaft-housing seal

Equally important is the presence of holes in the base of the impeller - they also help reduce the load on the mechanical shaft seal with the housing

Other modification

As for the direct brother of the car mentioned above, replacing the generator bearings on a VAZ 2112 differs little from the process described. After all, the filling of these cars is virtually the same. Moreover, the marking number of the bearing for the VAZ 2112 is identical to what we mentioned earlier, both front and rear. For repair actions you will need the same set of tools and accessories:

• spanners;
• round timber and block;
• puller;
• "Litol."

Procedure.

1. We de-energize the car from the battery power.
2. We dismantle the electric motor we need in the same way as for the “ten”, since it is mounted in the same way.
3. In the sequence described above, we release the necessary parts from the assembly unit.
4. Using thick lubricant, we install new parts.

We did not pay much attention to this instruction, since the VAZ 2110 engine and the VAZ 2112 engine are essentially the same, and the generator model used in these cars is the same.

Fourteenth model

Let's turn to another AvtoVAZ modification. Next, we will look at replacing the generator bearing in a VAZ 2114.

The reasons for the breakdown of parts here are similar to those given at the beginning of the article. Well, what will be useful to us for the next repair, we list here in a short list:

• set of wrenches;
• screwdriver;
• hammer and round timber;
• Litol lubricant.

Let's describe the repair technology point by point.

1. Disconnect the terminals from the battery.
2. We loosen the long adjusting bolt at the top of the unit being dismantled, then unscrew the lower mount of the electric motor, having previously treated the threaded connections with penetrating lubricant.
3. Having disconnected all the wires, we remove the electric motor (you can try through the top), and also prepare new parts. Their numbers are 180302 and 180201.
4. We unscrew the plastic cover of the electric motor, remove the brush holder and voltage regulator. At the same time we study the degree of wear of the brushes.
5. Use a screwdriver to separate the stator from the cover. A hammer may come in handy here, but we do everything very carefully!
6. Unscrew the nut from the pulley area and separate the impeller.
7. We remove the bearings and install new ones, applying thick grease.
8. Assembly is done in reverse

It is easy to understand that the procedure resembles the process we described for the case of the “ten”. That is, the set of stages again does not cause any particular complexity. But it happens that some owners of VAZ cars with front-wheel drive either do not have time to do the repairs themselves, or do not have the conditions, or enough funds to contact a car service center.

How much does the repair cost?

Therefore, we will also touch upon such an important point as the average cost of partial repair of an electric generator at a car service center.

To make a selection for large cities of the Russian Federation, let’s take as an example an operation such as installing a new bearing on a VAZ 2110 generator. We present the results in the table below.

Let us add that you can buy the bearing itself for a VAZ 2110 generator at a low price, within one hundred rubles for the entire set, consisting of two standard rolling parts.

Return to top

Based on the above data, we can draw the following conclusion: the cost of work, even when removing the entire unit at a car service and then installing it back, does not go beyond reasonable limits.

Let's sum it all up. We found out that the procedure for removing and installing the on-board electric motor on a VAZ, as well as disassembling it and dismantling old parts, is not so difficult to do with your own hands if you have a certain skill. But the prices for this work in a car service are also low and, if desired, you can contact a workshop.

Now read about replacing the oil filter on a Citroen C4 and how much brake fluid is needed for a complete replacement.