The problem may arise in engines with high mileage or in those whose maintenance was practically not monitored, counterfeit and cheap oil was filled in, it was rarely changed, and skimped on the quality and timing of filter replacement.
Previously, there were engines in which rapid wear of the camshaft was the result of design and technological errors, but now this does not happen, all engines are almost the same.
Eliminate camshaft knock (axial runout) with your own hands
Many already know that the VAZ 2111 injection engines have the following disease: “Axial camshaft runout”.
This disease does not progress and does not cause damage to other timing components, but it manifests itself in the form of an unpleasant camshaft knock. It just so happened that the developers of the 2111 engine missed this point. Where carburetor engines used to have a fuel pump and distributor, injection engines have a regular plug into which the camshaft rests. The camshaft axial play set by the manufacturer should not exceed 0.15-0.20mm. Over time, as the camshaft pastel wears out, the axial play increases, and a distinct knock begins to be heard from under the valve cover. Of course, you can continue to drive with this knock and not worry, but not every car enthusiast will be pleased.
I am sure that almost any auto repair shop will tell you: “Either ignore this knock, or change the entire head!” But there is one simple and absolutely free way to eliminate this annoying knocking noise by placing a washer between the camshaft and its side cover! Below is a detailed description and photo report of the work done.
Checking the camshaft axial play.
Remove the timing belt cover and start the engine. Then, with the engine running, press the handle of a screwdriver into the camshaft gear bolt. If the knock disappears when pressed, the reason is: Axial runout of the camshaft.
Communities › VAZ: Repair and Modification › Forum › Camshaft VAZ-2109
When I picked up the car, there was a slight knock from the engine. It works smoothly, then tututututut, then smoothly again. Over the winter, the knocking became louder, so I traveled around the drains to find out what it was. Everywhere they say that the camshaft is knocking, but everyone has different ways of solving the problem.
1. Just buy a new camshaft, install it, everything will be fine. 2. Sharpen the bed by 1mm (or some other part near the bed).
Has anyone encountered this, which option is correct?
depending on what exactly is causing the noise, perhaps the bed of the shaft has been broken...
I haven’t climbed there yet, so I haven’t seen it all live. If the bed is broken, then it turns out that the head housing needs to be changed?
In theory, you need to change the head! In practice, you pull off the RV, take out the pushers, screw the RV. Swing the RV, up and down, dangle, remove, and carefully wipe the RV covers on the stone. Rub, measure (do not rub) Tr-measure, assemble, adjust !
Thank you, very useful information! After grinding in, how long does it take in theory?
should run fine, but the valves will still have to be adjusted
Well, did you do it? What's going wrong, I also have something going wrong, either the valve or the camshaft
No, I’m waiting until the bed is completely broken so that I can put an evil head on it
I did it, but when assembling it I forgot to lubricate the beds with oil! As a result, within 30 seconds of engine operation, my head rocked! Don't forget to lubricate the camshaft journals and seats!
why is there a small knock?
If the knock is like at the 20th second of the video
then this is the longitudinal play of the camshaft. You need to measure the play and grind off the plug located on the right side of the head. Where the distributor is on carburetor engines. Here's the video showing everything:
Why immediately, the decision about the camshaft? one theory and speculation? You need to decide on the source of the noise! As you described, the tug-tug-tug, not only from RV. How to find the source of noise - woolif
If it’s still an RV, then replacing it won’t do anything, because they knock from behind the bed, just like on a classic engine. The shaft is dangling! On 2108, the bed is made from spirit parts. If it is not paired from the factory, then the plane is milled with a fit on the shaft! otherwise the shaft will burst if it does not turn after installation.
Remove the camshaft cover.
To begin with, using a powerful old-fashioned key of 17, we set the camshaft gear to the mark. This is necessary so that the “pin” that is on the camshaft does not interfere with removing the cover.
Then, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the cover (2 nuts and one bolt with a rubber ring).
Only 2 are visible in the photo, the third from the back:
Here you can see how this pin passes through the slot in the cover:
How to independently adjust valves on a VAZ 2106
Any mechanism wears out over time and needs debugging. The same can be said about the valves on the VAZ 2106. Initially, their thermal gap is set correctly. However, as the engine operates, its value gradually changes.
Over time, the gap may become smaller or larger. When the clearance decreases, the valves tighten, which leads to a loss of tightness. With large gaps, the valves are not able to open completely.
If there is a problem, you will hear it. The engine will begin to make a characteristic metallic ringing sound coming from the top. People simply say about this unpleasant sound: “valve knocking.” In the video you can clearly hear what it sounds like:
Experts recommend adjusting the valves in a timely manner, without waiting for problems to arise. The VAZ 2106 valves are adjusted after 30,000 kilometers. It wouldn’t hurt to do this after repair work on the engine.
This is especially important to do if the cylinder head has been removed
You can check the gap every 10,000 kilometers.
We make a washer.
For the material for the washer, I took a piece of galvanized sheet about 0.5mm thick and secured it to a piece of MDF panel with four self-tapping screws (so it wouldn’t fidget).
I drew 2 circles with a marker (inner diameter 25mm, outer 35mm) and hollowed out the inner diameter with a chisel.
I cut out the outer diameter with metal scissors, and I ended up with a curve like this, with the washer blank all covered in burrs:
I processed the inner diameter of the washer with a round file, and sharpened the sharp corners on the outer one:
Install the washer.
We put the washer on the camshaft (it should fit freely, if not, then adjust the dimensions).
I entered freely:
Put the cover back and tighten it.
Attention! Be sure to check if the camshaft is jammed.
To do this, take a key set to 17 and try to rotate the camshaft.
It should turn with the same force as before installing the washer.
If the camshaft becomes very difficult to turn, or is completely jammed, then remove the cover again, take out the washer and grind it to thickness:
Shutdown.
After the washer is adjusted, the cap is tightened and the camshaft rotates freely - start the engine and enjoy the silence of its operation!
If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.
Source
What to do if engine valves are knocking
The easiest and fastest way is to have it repaired by professionals. However, not everyone can afford to pay for their services. Therefore, you have to figure it out and solve the issue yourself. There are motorists who are interested in repairing their car with their own hands. There are also people who accumulate experience in self-repair for some purpose.
If valve knocking is a problem in your car and you have to repair it yourself, be prepared to do some serious work. Seriously and carefully, because if you make a mistake, the sound will only become stronger. Therefore, it is not recommended for a novice motorist to eliminate valve knocking. The sequence of actions is of great importance in this type of repair. First of all, it is recommended to study the repair manual for a specific car brand. Next you need to follow the algorithm:
- Engine oil is drained.
- The cylinder head plug is unscrewed. This will clear the way to the valves.
- The camshaft must be rotated until the mark on the pulley and the unit match.
- Determine the gap between the rods and valves by touch. The size of the gap can be changed using an adjusting washer.
- Depending on the specific car model, you need to turn the washer the required number of revolutions.
- Reassemble everything in reverse order and then check if the valve knocking has gone away.
Each car model has its own operating characteristics. But on average, every 25 thousand kilometers you need to adjust the valve clearances. The number of valves directly affects the noise level when they knock. The more valves, the louder the noise will be in the event of a malfunction. There is an engineering solution to the problem - some cars use hydraulic pushers to accurately maintain valve clearances.
Timing valves require preventive maintenance. It consists of periodically cleaning their surface from the deposits that have formed. Carbon deposits can reach a thickness that makes it difficult for the valves to operate properly. Therefore, you should not forget about their periodic cleaning and grinding. Careful implementation of preventive maintenance will extend the life of the engine and even slightly reduce fuel consumption.
If self-adjustment of the valves does not give a positive result, then it is better to contact a professional service station. Setting the gap yourself in this case is hardly possible. Sometimes the cause of valve knocking is completely different faults. But it is also possible that the valve clearances are set incorrectly.
How to diagnose camshaft knocking
To determine the knocking of the camshaft, you need to start the engine cold, when the lubricant has dropped down and the camshaft remains almost dry:
- the noise is heard only when the engine is cold, after warming up it decreases due to the fact that the bed begins to lubricate;
- the camshaft makes a dull sound, the crankshaft has a louder sound, especially when picking up speed;
- When the speed increases, the camshaft noise remains at the same level.
When the knocking noise occurs due to longitudinal play, another test can be performed. To do this, remove the timing belt cover and start the engine. After this, use the handle of a screwdriver or other convenient tool to press on the bolt holding the camshaft gear. If the knocking noise disappears, the reason is longitudinal play, which needs to be eliminated.
You can drive with a knocking sound from the camshaft for a long time, but if you do not solve the problem, it will lead to destruction of the shaft, engine failure and major repairs. Therefore, the problem must be solved immediately after it is identified.
If the VAZ 2110-2114 camshaft is deformed or mechanically damaged, the supports are broken or the journal is broken, this part must be replaced. The same is done in cases where the cams exhaust their service life, become deformed, and do not ensure proper operation of the valves. In this case, the knocking will be especially intense and will not go away when the engine warms up. Therefore, when you hear the camshaft knocking in the valve area, you need to be especially careful. But most often the reason is play as a result of the wear of the seats and the camshaft bed.
Timing shaft diagnostics
In the removed state, you can easily assess what defects are on the shaft. Visually, you can detect damage such as scuffs and scratches, as well as wear on the cut on the cams and coating of the aluminum word on the necks.
Even if minor traces of deformation were noticed, the camshaft on the VAZ 2107 must be replaced.
We present a table that shows the permissible values of the dimensions of the shaft journals for its further use.
| Part number (report starts at the front) | Threshold of permissible size values, mm | |
| Minimum | Maximum | |
| Shakey | ||
| 1 | 45,91 | 45,93 |
| 2 | 45,61 | 45,63 |
| 3 | 45,31 | 45,33 |
| 4 | 45,01 | 45,03 |
| 5 | 43,41 | 43,43 |
| Supports | ||
| 1 | 46,00 | 46,02 |
| 2 | 45,70 | 45,72 |
| 3 | 45,40 | 45,42 |
| 4 | 45,10 | 45,12 |
| 5 | 43,50 | 43,52 |
If these values are not met, it is important to replace the “bed” or timing shaft.
Eliminating camshaft knock on an 8 valve engine
Before starting work, you need to remove the engine valve cover, remove the cover of the right support cushion and pull out the valve tappets. This will free up access to the camshaft and, if necessary, allow it to be rotated to determine the play, since the shaft is completely unloaded.
When the camshaft of a VAZ-2114 or another model from this series knocks, two types of play are observed - longitudinal and transverse, and each of them has its own method of elimination.
When is it necessary to replace the oil seal?
The camshaft seals are replaced if oil leaks are detected in the pulley area.
In addition, the element is replaced if there is obvious mechanical damage. The procedure is not urgent, so a machine with a faulty cuff can be operated with some caution for a long period.
The exception is when the loss of oil through a destroyed element is sufficiently large or the destruction of the part is so massive that it allows dust to penetrate into the power unit.
Elimination of lateral play
The lateral play is determined by loosening the camshaft up and down, for which one of the covers of the support cushions is removed. This play appears when the camshaft journals and the shaft bed support pads against which they rest are worn.
First, we dismantle both camshaft cushion covers and remove excess metal using an emery stone with a fine-grained abrasive. Its surface must be perfectly flat so as not to disturb the geometry of the part. An alternative is fine-grained sandpaper glued to smooth glass.
The pad cover is ground with an abrasive to reduce its depth, causing it to hold the shaft more tightly. To prevent the emery from clogging, it is recommended to periodically water it with water. After 1-1.5 minutes of processing, the cover must be replaced and tightened, checking for play. It is important not to remove too much metal as the camshaft will stop turning. After installation, it should move without play with a slight, so-called “velvety” force.
Next, the operation is repeated with the second cover of the support cushion, while the cover that was processed earlier must be removed so that it does not interfere with determining the degree of camshaft play. After the backlash is completely eliminated, both covers are installed and the engine is assembled. After starting the engine, the knocking should stop completely.
Video: A simple way to eliminate camshaft knocking on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115.
What is the cause of valve knocking
Modern vehicles are equipped with a camshaft. It is located on top. The valve is driven by a rod, otherwise called a “Pusher”. The valve makes a tapping sound for some reason. Let's look at each in turn:
1. Almost all motorists know that there is a certain distance between the rod and the valve, which is calculated by vehicle manufacturers. If there is a decrease or increase in space, a loud sound with metal tapping occurs.
2. With constant use of low-quality oil, engine detonation occurs.
3. If there is a knocking sound while driving at high speeds or during acceleration, this may indicate a lack of oil pressure to increase engine power.
4. The timing belt is not installed correctly or is stretched.
5
An important reason is wear and tear. Each part needs to be replaced after some time.
Dismantling
To replace the problematic oil seal, you will have to perform several disassembly steps. As a result, you will need to do the following:
- Remove the front protective cover, and then remove the timing belt;
- Remove the camshaft pulley mounting bolts. To do this, hold the element with a screwdriver to prevent it from turning, and perform the removal procedure itself using a 17 mm wrench;
- Remove the toothed pulley;
- Remove the oil seal. For this operation, you will need a flat-head screwdriver or needle-nose pliers.
This set of measures will allow you to remove and replace the oil seal. But we advise you to check the condition of the camshaft and, if necessary, replace it.
To get to the camshaft you need:
- Remove the oil pressure sensor completely. If you don’t want to dismantle it, then at least disconnect the wires from the device;
- Unscrew the camshaft bearing housing mounting bolts. There are as many as 20 of them there. After this you can easily remove the case;
- Do not forget about the plugs that are located in each technological hole. Take them out;
- Disassemble the potentially problematic camshaft and determine the need for repair or replacement.
List of tools
To replace the camshaft oil seal on VAZ-2110 and 2112 16 valves, a minimum set of tools is required. These include:
- key to “10”;
- key to "17";
- Slotted screwdriver;
- Mandrel for pressing;
- A small amount of motor oil.
A pit or lift is not required for manipulation. The unit is fully accessible from the engine compartment. On VAZ-2110 cars there are 8 valves and on 16 valve units the oil seal is located under the camshaft pulley, on the right side in the direction of movement of the car.
