Niva Chevrolet speed sensor - Auto magazine MyDucato

The machine booted up on the native firmware (which was regulated in Moscow), and we rolled it up a bit. Victor honestly said that he did not notice any changes, although he did not “pull the trigger.” The logical result is that you should go out and write a proper program, rather than have it thrown away hastily by inept people. What would a buyer do with such a head in such a situation? I would have thought that I had thrown away money and started scolding us - there was no result! It happens that he “threw the hardware” and did not set it up. So there is no result.

It is worth noting the work of the drain. It turned out to be surprisingly decent in volume. There was a certain bass rumble, but there was no roar, as with some kind of forward flow - there was no trace of it. The cabin is quite comfortable, there is no excessive noise from the exhaust. As a result, the Stinger exhaust for the Niva turned out to be quite successful.

We take the machine to install the program. We open the program that was “made in Moscow” and under Victor we begin to dismantle it. First, ALL engine diagnostics have been stripped down to their roots - errors on major engine faults and their display via the check engine light are prohibited. The owner does not even know that something happened to the engine (broken wiring or short circuit in the injector circuit, misfire, etc.). The “programmer” decided that diagnostics were unnecessary and harmful. How will you come?! What to do if there are problems with the engine? The absence of errors will complicate the life of the diagnostician and the car owner - finding a fault will be much more difficult. Let's go further: the maps of ignition angles and fuel supply are practically incorrect. In practice, we see the factory program with an environmentally stifled “bass” and practically no power modes. How will everything go and what results should I expect? Actually, absolutely nothing. So the car doesn't drive and the dynamics are boring. And it won’t run no matter what kind of iron you throw into the engine. No turning, no fuel: where does the torque and power come from? Which? And there are hundreds of such programs. And then the “swing” begins for Tmutarakan clients - “I plugged in a piece of hardware, but it doesn’t work.” And it won’t work, because the program in the controller is written (or rather screwed on) with crooked handles. For some reason, Victor’s “pacers” reworked the fan switching algorithm, and the owner received the first engine cooling fan, which worked almost constantly. “Pacellators” have significantly expanded the threshold for turning on and off the second fan depending on the temperature, as a result the engine constantly screams with the first fan, trying in vain to cool the engine (the second fan does not turn on). Needless to say, he pestered the car owner in Moscow traffic jams. When all this was shown to Victor and clearly explained, he combed the back of his head - “what did he pay this amount for?” Having analyzed the “Moscow Program”, the specialist writes his own program, activates error diagnostics,, if necessary, corrects the corner and fuel maps, and puts in order the operation algorithm of the engine cooling fans.

Having paid half the money for a programmer's work compared to programmers from Moscow, Victor and I go on a test trip. The author gets behind the wheel himself to understand how the engine works and test it in different ways. We walk 15 kilometers, during which Victor (sitting as a passenger) never ceases to be surprised and happy with the results. The car quickly overtakes 4th and 5th gears and picks up speed easily. The engine revs up easily and is responsive to the throttle. There is no trace of the thoughtfulness and stupidity inherent in the VAZ E-gas. Of course, the author feels the difference in the performance of the cable and E-gas, but it is insignificant. First of all, Victor (and the author) was impressed by the engine’s performance at low speeds. We are driving along a bad bumpy road behind cars, before bumps they reduce the speed to 30-40 km/h, the Niva is driving in 5th gear, the author does not switch to a lower gear. The cars in front of us accelerate and instead of going down, the author lowers the accelerator pedal a little and the engine in 5th gear begins to accelerate the car from a speed of 30-40 km/h! According to Victor, you first had to shift to 4th or even 3rd gear for the engine to start moving at that speed. Obviously, the elasticity of the engine has improved significantly. After completing the test trip (Victor was completely satisfied and satisfied with the results of the trip, including driving half the route alone), the All-Union Agrarian Union program was withdrawn.

It's time to move on to analyzing the VSH chart. It is worth noting here that the archives have accumulated many diagrams of various configurations of the Niva 1.7 engine, which allows for a fairly in-depth analysis. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that a direct comparison of different VAZ engines is not always adequate, since the engines are different, and even production engines often differ significantly in characteristics (as evidenced by the rich experience of working with Okushki, where a large number of measurements revealed “above-standard” engines with greater power and “anti-stack” - inexplicably rotten engines that retained reduced performance even after tuning).

Let me remind you that all graphs are available in higher resolution by clicking on the image (opens in a new window). The blue line is time, the red line is power.

Program No. 1: Niva series engine 1.7 l (E-gas), mileage 80 t.km. Among the improvements, the catalyst was removed, and the firmware was done in Moscow. Power 71 hp at 4800 rpm, torque 12 kg at 3900 rpm. In absolute terms - weak performance - the engine did not even reach the factory rated power (81 hp)!

Schedule n. 2: We compare the graph of our standard engine (without catalytic and with Moscow firmware) with the graph of the fully serial Chevy Niva engine, which we measured in 2009 as part of our work with the Kazan car. Thus, this engine (without any firmware) has completely reached factory parameters and is shown below in the graph with a dotted line. The engines are of a completely different nature: Victor’s engine has more thrust at low and medium speeds (the difference of 3-4.8 kg of torque is significant), but at 5000 it loses 10.5 hp to the production engine. At the same time, in the region of low speeds (up to 1700), the “trick” of the engine with E-gas openly shifts in torque ahead of the cable engine. it is difficult to say why the engine did not reach the power level, probably for the reasons discussed in detail above in the analysis of the Moscow program.

Schedule n. 3: The actual result of engine tuning (overhaul of the cylinder head with large valves, need a universal 10.5mm and free exhaust). Maximum power reached 96 hp at 5300 rpm, maximum torque 13.1 kg at 4500 rpm. In the graph we see a big torque plateau from 2500 to 5400 rpm, with pickup in the region of 4000-5400 rpm (this range will be comfortable for overtaking on the freeway).

Schedule n. 4: Let's compare the results before and after. The dotted line shows the graphs of the modified engine. Improved low and low revs in the 2000-3000 rpm range. The torque failure was leveled out (at one revolution this is not noticeable, only a specialist can notice it - in this interval the increase in speed seems to slow down. However, Victor noted that he felt such a slowdown). The increase in power at the top is decent - 20-26 hp added in the 5000-6000 rpm range.

Schedule n. 5: I can’t help but compare with the Chevy Niva engine after tuning in 2009, where a similar cylinder head overhaul was carried out, a DynaCAMS 14 lower camshaft was obtained - 85 hp at 5300 rpm and a maximum torque of 12, 8 kg at 4100 rpm / Min. You can read this report by following this link. The only difference is that the exhaust was serial and the controller was Bosch 7.9.7 with a gas cable. To eliminate confusion, the cars were microchipped by the same person. As you can see, the Victor engine has 12.8 hp more power at 6000 rpm, but less torque in the 1500-4500 rpm range. These engines are different: one is for frequent mud climbing, the second is universal and more suitable, including for driving on the highway.

I would caution the reader against comparing the results by relating them only to camshafts - if the cars had the same exhaust and the same controllers, such as a cable damper - you could say that the camshaft had a big influence on the results obtained. It would be more correct to roll out the VSX graphs separately with a serial exhaust and separately with a direct flow from the Stinger - I am sure that the results will be VERY interesting and not necessarily unambiguous. But we did not have time for such work: Victor was limited in the time frame of the trip.

In general, this is a good universal engine tuning option for mixed modes, when the car is used mainly in the city and on the highway, not excluding trips to nature.

What about the car owner? Here is a review of the results of Victor’s arrival home after the setup:

07/07/14 Hello, Artem. No accidents, okay. I tried all the modes and the results are great. Gasoline for 1140 km. 100.6 l. This amounted to 8.8 liters per 100 km. Considering that a third of the road was traveling at a speed of 110-120 km per hour, this is very good. When I was driving to you, I spent 103 liters, although there were traffic jams. The dynamics are excellent, on the fourth overtake at 4000-4500 rpm the car flew away, my wife compared it to a Subaru, I was very surprised at her knowledge of car brands. Thanks again for your work, I will continue to collect statistics and write later. Have a good rest, keep it up, respectful, Victor.

Report update dated 07/09/2014:

09/02/14 Artem, hello. Unfortunately, the holiday ends quickly, but it is well planned and interesting; it will remain in the memory for a long time, if also supported by photographs. I think you succeeded this time, judging by the geography and distance traveled. Thanks for the advice. Looking at the graphs on my engine and comparing my sensations from driving a car over this period, I come to the conclusion that everything was done correctly. I continue to enjoy driving. So far we have only been able to go to Karelia for a week. Not so much a vacation as testing the car in different conditions. There was everything: a good track, 150 km of off-road vehicles, old wastelands lying in swamps, areas completely littered with boulders, and deep fords. This time my wife supported me, she was with me because she didn’t want to let me go alone. Now in the car. I rode on 29 inch wheels. This is K-139 195/80 R16. On the roof there is a box, two axles with a hi-jack and a spare tire in the cabin, a 20-liter tank, a boat and much more. This is me to compare my feelings from a trip to Mongolia and Altai, where the car was also equipped, but with a serial engine. Given the large wheels and increased aerodynamic drag, on the previous trip I had to crawl behind the trucks, choosing straight areas to overtake. As for the Moscow-St. Petersburg route, these are trucks, trucks and overtaking sections from 400 to 800 m on the tracks. A car was found here. As many as 4000-4500 laps were enough to complete the overtaking and squeeze between the cars. It should be noted that shortly before the trip, given the increased power and not the best brakes of the Niva, I installed ventilated reinforced brakes from the Gazelle, and I was not mistaken. One day, after I had relaxed, I had to brake suddenly, I stopped half a meter from the car in front of me, following the one that I also had to dodge to the side. Before installing the new brakes, I tried to brake hard on my big wheels and couldn't get the car to spin. After the replacement, the car stopped working. In short, a very pleasant addition to a powerful engine. Probably, looking at my slideshows around Altai, you noticed how I had to throttle and work with the clutch, overcoming rocky climbs even on the first lower one. Now at least I don't have to speed up so much when driving past rocky debris. Among the shortcomings I would notice the engine noise, especially in cold weather. But it can complement my exhaust system. In general, the car has become what I imagine for travel. Thanks again, creative approach to work and long trips with my family. Winner.

Article written: August 31, 2014 Updated: September 7, 2014 Author of the article, photo-video materials: © Quasar It is prohibited without the written permission of the author: to reprint the article in whole or in part, to reprint and use photo-video materials, as well as to change and modify them for further publication on third-party sites.

E-GAS or electronic accelerator pedal is installed on all Lada models (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora and Niva 4×4). Owners' comments on this matter are not reassuring; many complain that the electronic gas pedal is “tiring” (less sensitive and informative than a regular cable). Did you know that in some cases the electronic accelerator pedal can be adjusted to be more responsive and a little more lively?

We determine the model of the accelerator pedal; this can be done by the catalog number, which is pasted on the side of the housing. If you don't have access to the sticker, you will need to remove the electronic accelerator pedal:

1. Disconnect the block with wires near the accelerator pedal;
2. Unscrew the three nuts using a "10" wrench;
3. Remove the housing and pedal assembly.

The manufacturer installs at least two types of electronic accelerator pedals on Lada cars (depending on the year of manufacture):

• Old sample (catalog number: 11183-1108500);
• New sample (article: 11183-1108500-01).

Each block is designed differently. Attention! You do all further actions at your own peril and risk. You may also lose your warranty.

Basic functions and purpose of the speed sensor

To control the speed of movement, a special device is installed on the dashboard - a speedometer.
But it only displays the information received, and the speed sensor is responsible for collecting data. If it fails, it will create many dangerous situations on the road, since it will become difficult to control the speed limit in the city and on the highway. But besides this, thanks to the integration of the electronic control unit into the system, the speed sensor allows you to perform the following functions:

• fuel consumption control
• displaying information on the instrument panel
• in cars with an automatic transmission it is included in the complex responsible for engine control

In case of failure, you are allowed to continue the journey, but this will become difficult.

Historically, there were two types of sensors. Initially, mechanical or optoelectronic were used. They read the number of shaft revolutions, transmitting it to the instrument panel using a cable. Then electronic cableless systems came to replace them.

Each car has a speedometer in its design, which displays the speed of movement of the vehicle. But the speedometer is only a display of useful information; the main function of indicating the speed of movement is performed by the sensor. If it malfunctions, further travel becomes a pain, especially on city highways, where it is necessary to maintain the speed of movement.

Therefore, the main function of the device is to read information about the movement of the vehicle. Indirect functions of the device include:

• possibility of rational fuel consumption;
• regulation of traffic according to road markings and signs;
• makes it possible to regulate speed in order to avoid fines.

It is possible to drive a car without this part, but it is quite difficult.

There are two types of speed sensors:

1. Mechanical or optoelectronic. It works by transmitting the number of revolutions of the box shaft using a cable.
2. Electronic or cableless. Actually, that’s what we’ll be talking about.

A speedometer is installed in the design of almost every car. But the speedometer is only a general display that displays information. The main function of indicating speed is performed by the sensor itself. If the device is faulty, further movements become very difficult, if possible at all. The part needs to be replaced as quickly as possible.

The main purpose of the device is to read information related to moving around the city. There are other, so-called indirect functions:

1. Adjust speed to avoid fines.
2. Simplified traffic following road markings and signs.
3. Rational fuel consumption. It is also important for cars produced in 2007.

Without this part, driving a car is possible, but it becomes much more difficult.

A speedometer is installed on the Niva's instrument panel, which is necessary to display the current speed of the car. In the event of a malfunction, driving becomes difficult as most roads have speed limits that must be followed. In addition, a malfunction of the speedometer can affect the calculation of other data by the on-board computer. Based on the DS data, the required fuel consumption is determined and gasoline savings are ensured while idling.

Therefore, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics as soon as possible and identify the cause of the breakdown.

It’s been a while since we’ve done any work specifically on Niva – with drawing of graphs, analysis of cause-and-effect relationships and a large package of photographs. This does not mean that work was not carried out - far from it! We worked with both engines and machines, but most of the heads were given ready-made, assembled, for self-installation. And this is a “black hole” from which reviews and information cannot be pulled out (however, occasionally some “Hawking radiation” does come out of this hole - in the form of a negative, if the car is flashed by an unknown chipmaker, a spherical sample of which the author described in a recent material "Why does the motor die..."). When warning people before ordering ready-made heads, they often have to dwell in detail on the problem of chip tuning, literally persuading them to come for installation and configuration: “installing the hardware is half the battle, the other half is configuring it.”

One of these responsible clients turned out to be Victor from Moscow. He already owns his second Niva (the first one simply rotted completely), the last car was produced in 2011, with a mileage of 80 thousand km. Victor liked the materials and approach to the work of the K-POWER Workshop and he decided to contact us, and even bring the car for engine tuning. There is no need to tell the drivers about the symptoms - a chronically weak engine, the capabilities of which are always insufficient. At first, Victor decided to do a major overhaul with an increase in engine capacity, but later he decided not to touch the “bottom” and just get by with tuning the cylinder head. Thus, the cylinder block remains unchanged, the volume is the same - 1.7 liters . The engine is injection, equipped with an electronic gas pedal (E-gas). The client’s movement pattern (in his words) is “up to 4000-4500 rpm maximum, because the engine doesn’t go any further”, there are a lot of drives along the highways and trips to nature in Russia and Europe.

Victor has already done the necessary minimum of work on tuning the car, not related to the engine - he installed the transfer case on the subframe, replaced the cardans with balanced ones, untied the front axle from the cylinder block, made noise insulation (the car has become more comfortable, as much as possible for a Niva, annoying vibrations have gone away), the time has come engine turn. After patiently waiting several months while the head was made and a window appeared in a long line of customers, Victor came from Moscow to install the modified cylinder head.

I will separately dwell on the reasons that prompted Victor to refuse to increase the engine capacity (using components from STI) - firstly, the high price of hardware - about 50 thousand rubles. for the pleasure of having a lightweight connecting rod and piston group and a volume of about 1.9 liters; secondly, the engine did not consume oil and did not require major repairs (for the same reason, it was decided to abandon the cheaper increase in volume using a crankshaft from Nadezhda). Let's take a look at the engine compartment. The absence of a cable and clutter of supporting brackets visually simplifies the motor. The electronic gas pedal does not bother us at all - the Bosch controller 17.9.7 lends itself perfectly to unsubscribing the program with excellent results. Many chipmakers avoid E-gas, offering the client an expensive transition to a “cable”, but progress cannot be abandoned - such would-be chipmakers will inevitably remain on the sidelines of progress. Victor has already done chip tuning in Moscow, paying 6 thousand rubles , later we will talk about the consequences of analyzing this program by a specialist who writes programs for our engines.

We take measurements of the CVX graph (power and torque) and begin to remove the cylinder head to replace it with a modified one. Analysis of the serial graph is at the end of the article. In the meantime, let's look at the spark plugs - an ordinary picture for the M7 highway, where ferrocene-coated gasoline has been sold for decades. Red spark plugs must be replaced immediately with new ones. In this work, we are getting rid of the hydraulic chain tensioner (installed by ANC Pilot ) and replacing the hydraulic valve lifters with mechanical adjusting bolts. The penultimate photo clearly shows the ends of the valves - a sign of wear indicates a non-rotating valve. On one valve you can clearly see the crackers, half out of the plate. This is either a faulty assembly of the engine at the factory, or the valve has partially become dry during engine operation.

Victor also brought a new exhaust system for installation, manufactured by Stinger. The Workshop has been working with the products of this company for a long time. In this case, it was necessary to install a 4-2-1 spider, a direct-flow resonator and a muffler. There were big doubts about the muffler - would the exhaust be too loud, is this necessary on the Niva? We have experience working with Stinger mufflers, they have never been quiet, and for this reason we installed a Moscow muffler on the turbo VAZ, not the Stinger muffler. After much debate with Victor, we decided to try installing the entire system.

During the installation of the exhaust, a small problem emerged - none of the standard gaskets fit on the manifold flange - neither 2108 nor 2101. The pipes are larger in diameter! As a result, the gasket protrudes considerably into the pipe, which creates unnecessary resistance to the flow of exhaust gases. I’m sure that in a normal service they wouldn’t bother with this and would install it “as is,” but we made a new “correct” gasket.

I was surprised by the condition of the cylinders. They were perfect! Unlike the heavy Chevy Niva, which is also loaded with air conditioning, where the engine works beyond its limits, on the lighter Niva it lives more comfortably, and scuffing does not appear on the cylinders. In any case, Victor is right - it’s too early to overhaul the block here and there’s absolutely no need for it yet. The second surprise is that the entire engine is assembled on metal packages. On a luxury Chevy Niva of similar years, the opened engine was covered with paronite gaskets. It’s really true that whatever the factory has, that’s where the engine is assembled. The red valves (like the spark plugs) scream ferrocene gasoline.

Before Victor’s arrival, a new VAZ 21214 head was prepared. The channels were modified (increased in diameter, polished), the combustion chambers were modified (not just holes-ears near the intake valves, as some people think from the photo, but the entire combustion chamber was created anew, taking into account the large valves), bronze guides are installed. Valve seats are heat-resistant steel, chamfers are machined on a special machine (valve lapping is not required), enlarged valves with a diameter of 42x34 mm, with three grooves for imported crackers. To critics of such valves who doubt that such valves can rotate in a classic head, I can answer - they DO ROTATE, and the practice of inspecting used heads confirms this . The valve springs are stock VAZ springs, the spring plates are made of aluminum with a spread of -2.0 mm. The metal package had to be modified to accommodate the increased diameters of the channels. It’s easier, of course, to modify paronite gaskets, but they are short-lived. The rocker was installed by Italian Pilenga. The intake manifold has also been modified.

We place the head on the cylinder block using a metal gasket. We use Nuzhdin “Estonian” camshaft 10.5 mm with a phase of 256 degrees . This is not quite a low-level camshaft, but rather a universal one. Considering the use of a modified head and an “embroidered exhaust”, the results of its use will be very interesting.

There were no particular problems with installing the exhaust, except that it was necessary to make a lambda probe extension. The probe itself is very close to the transfer case subframe - a little more and we would have to re-weld the input nut for the sensor.

The mechanical part has been assembled and adjusted, it’s time to start the engine and edit the program, followed by drawing up the final VSH schedule.

The car started up on the native firmware (which was correct in Moscow), and we drove it for a bit. Victor honestly said that he did not notice any changes, although he did not “sink the trigger.” The logical result is that you need to go and make a correct program , and not one thrown in a hurry by incompetents. What would a buyer of such a head do in such a situation? He would have thought that he had thrown money away and started cursing us - but there was no result! This is how it happens, they “threw in a piece of hardware” but didn’t configure it. So there is no result.

It is worth noting the operation of the exhaust. It turned out to be surprisingly decent in volume. Those. a certain bass bubbling appeared, but there was no roar at all, as with some direct flows. The cabin is quite comfortable and there is no unnecessary noise from the exhaust. Consequently, the Stinger exhaust for the Niva is quite successful.

We're taking the car to get the program tuned. We open the program that was “made in Moscow” and, with Victor, we begin to disassemble it. Firstly, ALL engine diagnostics have been cut out at the root - essentially, errors on key engine malfunctions and their display on the Check Engine . The owner will not even know that something happened to the engine (a break or short circuit in the injector circuits, misfires, etc.) That is. The “program designer” decided that diagnostics were completely unnecessary and harmful. How so?! What if there are problems with the engine? The absence of errors will complicate the life of the diagnostician and the car owner - finding a fault will be much more difficult. Let's move on - the maps of ignition angles and fuel supply were practically not corrected. In practice, we see a factory program with low-end settings strangled for environmental reasons and almost no power output. How will it go and what result should I expect? That's right - no way at all. So the car doesn’t drive, and the dynamics are a bit rotten. And it won’t run, no matter what kind of iron you throw into the engine. No corners, no fuel - where does the torque and power come from? From what cabbage soup? And there are hundreds of such programs... And then the “swing” begins with clients from Tmutarakan - “I stuck the piece of iron in and it doesn’t work”... And it won’t work, because... in the controller there is a program written (more precisely, messed up) with crooked pens. For some reason, Victor’s “peacemakers” changed the algorithm for turning on the fans and the owner received an almost constantly running first engine cooling fan. The “Payers” significantly pushed back the threshold for turning on and off the second fan in terms of temperature, as a result, the motor constantly screams with the first fan, trying in vain to cool the motor (while not turning on the 2nd fan). Need I say how much this annoyed the car owner in Moscow traffic jams... When Victor was shown all this and explained it clearly, he scratched his head - “why did he pay that kind of money”? After analyzing the “Moscow program,” the specialist writes his own program, includes error diagnostics, edits the angle and fuel maps as necessary, and puts in order the algorithms for the operation of the engine cooling fans.

Having paid half as much money for the programmer’s work as the “peacemakers” in Moscow, Victor and I are going on a test trip. The author gets behind the wheel himself to understand the operation of the engine and test it in different modes. We drive 15 kilometers, during which Victor (sitting as a passenger) never ceases to be surprised and happy with the results. The car quickly overtakes in 4th and 5th gears, easily picking up speed. The engine is easy to climb and responds quickly to the throttle. There is no trace of the thoughtfulness and stupidity characteristic of the VAZ E-gas. Of course, the author feels the difference in response speed between the cable and the E-gas, but it is insignificant. What struck Victor (and the author too) was the engine’s performance at low speeds. We are driving along a bad, broken road behind cars, they reduce speed to 30-40 km/h before potholes, the Niva moves in 5th gear, the author does not downshift. The cars in front of us are accelerating, and instead of shifting to a lower gear, the author slightly presses the gas pedal and the engine in 5th gear begins to accelerate the car from a speed of 30-40 km/h! According to Victor, previously it was necessary to switch to 4th or even 3rd gear in order for the engine to start moving at such a speed. Obviously, the elasticity of the motor has improved significantly. After completing the test trip (Victor was completely satisfied and delighted with the results of the trip, including driving half the way on his own), the VSH schedule was removed.

It's time to move on to analyzing the VSH schedules. It is worth noting here that the archives have accumulated a lot of graphs of various configurations of the Niva 1.7 engine, which allows for fairly in-depth analytics. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that a direct comparison of different VAZ engines is not always adequate, since the engines are different , and even production engines often differ noticeably in performance (as shown by extensive experience with Okushki, where a large number of measurements revealed as “super-stock” engines with increased power, and “anti-stock” - inexplicably rotten engines that retained reduced performance even after tuning).

Let me remind you that all graphs are available in higher resolution by clicking on the picture (opens in a new window). The blue line is torque, the red line is power.

Graph #1: Niva 1.7 l serial engine ( E-gas ), mileage 80 tkm. Among the improvements - the catalyst was removed and the firmware was done in Moscow. Power 71 hp at 4800 rpm, torque 12 kg at 3900 rpm . In absolute terms - weak indicators - the engine did not even reach the factory power rating (81 hp)!

Graph #2: Let’s compare the graph of our production engine (without catalytic and with Moscow firmware) with the graph of a fully production Chevy Niva engine, which we measured in 2009 as part of our work with the Kazan car. That motor (without any firmware) then reached factory specifications and is shown below as a dotted line on the graph. The engines are completely different in character - Victor’s engine is more powerful at low and medium speeds (the difference of 3-4.8 kg of torque is significant), but at 5000 rpm it loses 10.5 hp . At the same time, in the low speed zone (up to 1700), the “chip” engine with E-gas openly loses torque to the cable engine. It is difficult to say why the engine did not increase in power, probably for the reasons that were discussed in detail above when analyzing the Moscow program.

Graph #3: Actually, the result of engine tuning (refinement of the cylinder head with large valves, universal Nuzhdin camshaft 10.5 mm and free exhaust). Maximum power reached 96 hp. at 5300 rpm , peak torque 13.1 kg at 4500 rpm . In the graph we see a wide torque plateau from 2500 to 5400 rpm, with a pickup in the region of 4000-5400 rpm (overtaking on the highway will be convenient in this range).

Graph #4: Let's compare the results before and after. The dotted line shows the graphs of the modified motor. The low end and low revs in the 2000-3000 rpm range have improved. The dip in torque has leveled out (while driving it can be barely noticeable, only a specialist can notice it - in this range the set of revolutions seems to slow down. However, Victor noted that he felt such a slowdown). The increase in power at the top is decent - 20-26 hp in the range of 5000-6000 rpm .

Graph #5: I can’t resist comparing it with the Chevy Niva engine after tuning in 2009, where a similar modification was made to the cylinder head, DynaCAMS 14 - a power of 85 hp was obtained there. at 5300 rpm and peak torque 12.8 kg at 4100 rpm. You can read that report using the link. The only difference is that the exhaust was standard and the controller was Bosch 7.9.7 with cable throttle. In order to eliminate any misunderstandings, the cars were chipped by the same person. As you can see, Victor’s engine is 12.8 hp more powerful. at 6000 rpm , but is inferior in torque in the range of 1500-4500 rpm . Those. The motors are different - one is for frequent climbing “in the mud”, the second is universal and more suitable for driving on the highway.

I would like to caution the reader against comparing the results by relating them only to camshafts - if the cars had the same exhaust and the same controllers, say, with a cable throttle - one could say that the camshaft had an important influence on the results. The most correct thing would be to roll out the VSH graphs separately with a serial exhaust and separately with a forward flow from the Stinger - I’m sure the results would be VERY interesting and not necessarily unambiguous. But we did not have time for such work - Victor was limited in the time frame of his trip.

In general, it’s a good universal engine tuning option for mixed modes, when the car is used mainly in the city and on the highway, not excluding outings.

Well, what about the owner of the car? This is the review that came from Victor’s arrival home after tuning:

07/07/14 Hello Artem. I got there without incident, everything was fine. I tried all the modes, the results are excellent. On gasoline for 1140 km. 100.6l. This amounted to 8.8 liters per 100 km. Considering that a third of the way I was traveling at a speed of 110-120 km. per hour, that's very good. When I was driving to you I spent 103l, although there were traffic jams. The dynamics are excellent, overtaking uphill in fourth 4000-4500rpm. the car flew away, my wife compared it to a Subaru, I was very surprised by her knowledge of car brands. Thanks again for your work, I’ll continue collecting statistics and then I’ll write. Have a good rest, keep it up, best regards, Victor.

Report update dated 09/07/2014:

09/02/14 Artem, hello. Unfortunately, a vacation ends quickly, but a well-planned and interesting vacation remains in the memory for a long time, if also supported by photographs. I think that’s what happened to you this time, judging by the geography and distance traveled. Thanks for the report. Looking at the graphs for my engine and comparing my feelings from driving a car over this period, I come to the conclusion that everything was done correctly. I continue to enjoy driving. So far we have only managed to go to Karelia for a week. Not so much to relax as to test the car in different conditions. There was everything: a good track, 150 km of off-road terrain, old trails built in swamps, areas completely littered with stone boulders, and deep fords. This time my wife supported me, she was with me, because... she didn’t want to let me go alone. Now about the car. I went on a trip on 29″ wheels. This is K-139 195/80 R16. There is a box on the roof, two boards with a hi-jack and in the cabin there is a spare wheel, a 20L canister, a boat and a lot of things. This is me in order to compare my sensations from a trip to Mongolia and Altai, where the car was also equipped, but with a stock engine. Given the large wheels and increased drag, on the previous trip we had to crawl behind the trucks, choosing straight sections for overtaking. As for the Moscow-St. Petersburg route, these are trucks, trucks and overtaking sections from 400 to 800m on climbs. This is where the machine opened up. Even 4000-4500 rpm was enough to have time to complete overtaking and squeeze between the cars. I should note that shortly before the trip, given the increased power and not the best brakes on the Niva, I installed ventilated reinforced brakes from the Gazelle, and I was not mistaken. Once, having relaxed, I had to brake sharply, stopped half a meter from the car in front, and the one behind me even had to dodge to the side. Before installing new brakes, I tried to brake sharply on my big wheels and was never able to get the car into skid. After the replacement, the car stopped dead in its tracks. In short, a very good addition to a powerful engine. You probably, while looking through my slideshows around Altai, noted how I had to gas and work the clutch, overcoming rocky climbs, even in the first low gear. Now at least I don’t rev so much when overcoming stone rubble. Among the shortcomings, I would note some engine noise, especially when cold. But this can complement my exhaust system. But overall the car has become what I imagine for my travels. Thank you again, creativity in your work and long trips with your family. Victor.

Article written: August 31, 2014 Update: September 7, 2014 Author of the article, photo-video materials: © Quasar The following are prohibited without the written permission of the author: reprinting the article in whole or in part, reprinting and use of photo-video materials, as well as their modification and editing for further publication on third-party sites.

Operating principle of the electronic pedal

The speed sensor for Niva 21214 is based on the action described by physicist Hall. It reads electromagnetic pulses, which are then processed by the on-board computer. One kilometer of travel is equal to 6000 pulses sent by the DS, and if the speed increases, the frequency of the pulses increases. As a result, calculations occur in a special controller, which provide information to the instrument panel in a more convenient form.

A gearbox, an electric motor and two sensors are built into the throttle body. The electric motor turns the throttle valve through a gearbox, and its position is monitored by two sensors.

The electronic gas pedal is a plastic lever, and two sensors are installed in the bracket. All elements are a single structure (gas pedal module). The sensors are potentiometers, the moving contact of which is rigidly connected to the rotary axis of the pedal lever.

Also interesting: Chevrolet Niva camshaft sensor

The electronic control unit (ECU) continuously monitors the pedal position based on sensor signals. Based on these parameters, the ECU sends control commands to the throttle gearbox and to the fuel injectors.

The Hall effect is the principle of reading electromagnetic pulses. There are magnetic marks on the car shaft, the impulse from which is read by the sensor. A certain number of shaft rotations is programmed into the control unit, corresponding to the kilometer traveled, equal to 6004. As the speed increases, the interval between pulses is reduced, the information is processed and displayed on the instrument panel.

Reviews from “traditional craftsmen”

Do-it-yourselfers who have experience doing Chevrolet Niva chip tuning with their own hands often say that such work did not make sense. They claim that the engine is capable of adapting to existing conditions, “self-learning.” Indeed, this is typical for Bosch ECU models 7.9.0 and M 7.9.7, as well as M 7.9.7+. But if the “January” block of model 7.2 is installed in the engine, it is quite advisable to perform a flashing, changing all the factory settings. Then the engine power indicators can increase up to 10%. It is advisable to entrust such work to a specialist. The final quality directly depends on this. This way you can avoid negative consequences.

Where is the speed sensor located in the Chevrolet Niva and design features

The gearbox is where the speed sensor is mounted in the case of the Chevrolet Niva. The guidance of electromagnetic pulses inside the device is ensured by the rotation of the gearbox shaft.

The design of the sensor itself is formed by just a few simple elements:

• conductors;
• internal components;
• housing, on a steel or plastic base - connection using it is the safest.

Attached directly to the shaft, with the participation of the gearbox. Inside there is a core of ferromagnets. It is this part that rotates, creating impulses when the car moves. The pulses travel along the conductor to the controller located on the sensor.

About the price

Car enthusiasts who are interested in the question of how much a new Chevrolet Niva costs will be interested to know that the price starts from 630,000 rubles and above, depending on the chosen modification.

Work on reflashing the ECU will cost the vehicle owner in the amount of 5,000 to 6,500 rubles. If the driver is confident in his abilities, he can use a special program and reflash the engine himself. But mistakes in such a matter are extremely undesirable.

Advantages and disadvantages of an electronic pedal

Pros:

1. Instant engine response when you press the gas pedal.
2. Smoothing out sharp gas changes.
3. Reduced fuel consumption.
4. Environmentally friendly.

Minuses:

1. Non-repairable.
2. Slower acceleration.
3. Softer pedal.

What do you think about the electronic gas pedal on Lada cars? Maybe it would be better if the gas pedal has a cable? Let us remind you that some problems with E-Gas are solved after replacing the brake pedal position sensor.

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Why did AvtoVAZ need E-gas?

As I already said, environmental standards are becoming stricter every year, in order for the exhaust to comply with the standards, the cable had to be removed. This made it possible to get rid of the driver’s empty gasping, as well as other unnecessary actions that increase the toxicity of exhaust gases. The electronic pedal, as it were, regulates “at its own discretion” how to open the throttle. Even a sharp press on the pedal will be processed in such a way that as little harmful CO2 as possible is released into the atmosphere.

How it works?

An electronic pedal consists of three main elements: pedal, electric pedal. damper, as well as a sensor located on the pedal itself. The sensor reads the degree of pressure on the pedal, and then sends the data to the electronic unit. It receives the data, analyzes it and sends a signal to the electronic damper, which opens to the required degree.

What advantages does E-gas have for the motorist?

• First of all, the electronic pedal helps reduce fuel consumption.
• Despite the widespread belief that E-gas “presses” the engine, statistics show that electronics, on the contrary, improve dynamics. Although there is indeed a slight “stupidity” at the beginning.

Now about the disadvantages of E-gas

• Most often email. The pedal is criticized for its pause (“stupid”) at the start, when you press the pedal sharply and try to accelerate. According to many, the engine interacts poorly with the pedal, as a result of which approximately one second is lost. Although we have learned to correct this shortcoming.
• E-gas does not allow serious engine tuning, since the pedal negates all efforts. Installing a cable drive solves the problem. I would also like to note that we learned how to customize and customize the pedal for specific needs.
• The electronic pedal causes a lot of trouble during operation.

The main problems of E-gas

In addition to shortcomings with dynamics, other problems are also observed, for example, floating speed, “sticking” pedals, unauthorized throttle application. Main errors of the electronic pedal: (P2122-P2123, P2127-P2128, P2138).

In the office AvtoVAZ reports that when replacing the controller or removing the battery terminal, the electronic pedal requires adaptation.

How it's done?

To adapt E-gas, you must do the following:

• Connect the battery terminal if it was removed;
• Then turn the key in the ignition switch to the “ignition” position. You will see indicator lights on the dashboard. Wait half a minute and start the engine. The air temperature must be at least +7°C;
• After this, we adapt the ignition diagnostic function. We accelerate at second speed, after which we brake the engine from 4000 rpm to 1000 rpm. We perform six such cycles in one run.

Signs of malfunction and methods of failure

Like any car part, the sensor is subject to vibration and is susceptible to contamination and oxidation. Therefore, its failure is possible from time to time. To understand the cause of the breakdown and what to do in each specific situation, the following problems should be eliminated:

• broken wiring
• the appearance of oxide on the contacts
• destruction of wire insulation
• mechanical damage to the housing or its internal components

To do this, you can carry out a certain set of measures to check the condition of the sensor. Typically, such work requires a multimeter. The sensor is removed from the seat. A positive probe is connected to the contacts. The negative one is connected to the ground of the vehicle. The multimeter must be set to minimum power measurement mode.

There is a second diagnostic method. This does not require dismantling the sensor. The car is raised with a jack, then a multimeter is connected to the sensor. To appear, you need to rotate the wheel, observing the readings of the device. If the value does not change, the sensor is faulty.

In the Niva Chevrolet, the speedometer needle is driven not by a cable and a magnetic device, as in classic VAZs, but by electronics. The speedometer itself, like the rest of the instruments on the panel, are nothing more than voltmeters or ammeters with different scales.

This is for information, because it is useless to poke into the speedometer itself, it is not repairable and if at least one element fails, you have to buy the entire instrument panel on the circuit board.

The speedometer receives an impulse from the speed sensor, and it is installed on the transfer case housing. These impulses are also monitored by the electronic engine control unit and, receiving them, draws its conclusions about the operating mode of the motor.

The signs of a non-working speedometer are quite clear - the needle either lies shamelessly, showing 160 at a speed of 20 km/h, or twitches, or falls dead to the zero mark.

Since there are not many elements in the electrical circuit of the Chevrolet Niva speedometer, there are only a few reasons for the device not working:

1. Mechanical damage to the speedometer itself.
2. No contact in any of the terminal connections.
3. Broken or shorted wire.
4. Failure of the speed sensor.
5. ECU malfunction.

Also interesting: Phase sensor Niva Chevrolet symptoms of malfunction, DPRV high signal level

Problems with DS arise from time to time, but not all of them require replacement. Some of them are caused by third-party reasons, such as:

• oxidation of contacts,
• wire break,
• damage to wire insulation,
• damage to gearbox mechanisms.

If a breakdown occurs, it can be indirectly determined by the following signs:

1. If your car has a cruise control system, it stops working. The electronic unit forcibly turns it off to ensure safety.
2. Forced disabling of the power steering on the car.
3. Reduced power and other dynamic characteristics of the car. This is noticeable in poor overclocking and malfunctions when the load increases. Damage is noticeable when towing loads.
4. Reduced idle speed or “floating” indicators. A sharp decrease in performance also occurs in the event of braking. Sometimes the engine itself is forced to shut down while driving.
5. Increased fuel consumption due to the choice of a less than optimal operating mode.
6. Check Engine Light Activation.
7. Some cars face forced restrictions on maximum speed or available revolutions.
8. Forced disabling of the anti-lock braking system.
9. Spontaneous gear shifting in jerks. Such actions are carried out randomly, since the car itself cannot establish optimal performance for the present moment.
10. Lack of normal operation of the speedometer - completely or partially.

The listed symptoms are often characteristic of breakdowns in other components that the car is equipped with. It is recommended to use a special scanner for comprehensive diagnostics of the entire circuit.

The sensor itself rarely fails because it is a reliable device. But its operation may be negatively affected by the following factors:

1. The sensor is dirty from the inside. Such problems are especially common with sensors with detachable housings.
2. Metal shavings get on the device. Sometimes this reason appears in devices supported by permanent magnets.
3. Interference from other devices.
4. Problems related to fixation. The scheme must take into account the color of each individual part.
5. The integrity of the wiring is broken. For example, if it overheated, or some mechanical damage appeared inside. In this case, the contacts are completely cleaned of traces of corrosion, then a special protective lubricant is used for them.
6. Oxidation of contacts. The phenomenon is attributed to natural factors, often arising simply from time to time.
7. Overheating that occurs during direct operation. This happens even if the pinout is initially correct.

Firmware performance

Successful implementation of such tuning will lead to the following results:

fuel will be saved significantly, ranging from one and a half to two liters per 100 km;

engine functionality will improve;

the machine will run smoothly, without jerking.

To perform flashing, use the ChipExplorer editor, which is available for download on the Internet. Such a program is offered for sale in a car dealership. It is important to know how such tuning is performed. If you lack confidence in your abilities, it is better to seek professional help.

Location of the Chevrolet Niva speed sensor

Currently, the production of automobiles has completely abandoned the use of speed measurement sensors consisting of mechanical parts. Modern devices are based on the use of electromagnetic sensors that work due to the effect discovered by the physicist Hall and which received the same name.

The work is carried out in an inspection pit. Before dismantling, you must disconnect the battery.

The sensor is located on the rear cover of the transfer case. Before removing it, you must disconnect the terminals. They are held in place by a plastic retainer.

Then, using a wrench, the device is unscrewed from the seat.

If the device is firmly “stuck”, it is forbidden to use excessive force; it is better to treat the threads with a lubricant like WD-40.

Before installing a new device, you should carefully examine its condition. On the sensor, the assembly points and contact group must be carefully filled with varnish to prevent the penetration of water. Otherwise, the device may soon fail.

The speed of a car has long been measured not mechanically, but electronically. This measurement is based on the principle of the Hall effect, using a special device. The Chevrolet Niva is equipped with the same electronic device, which accurately reads the speed developed by the car.

The ECU uses information from the mass air flow sensor to determine the duration of the injector opening pulse.

After identifying the problem, further actions depend on the reason for the problems in the work.

The following options are available to correct the current situation:

1. Dismantling the device, checking with a multimeter. The signal screen is also easy to disassemble. In case of serious malfunctions, it is easier to replace the device; repairs will be too expensive. The main thing is to dismantle the dashboard in advance to gain access to the interior panel of the car. The fixing nut from the device is also completely removed. After this, disconnecting the sensor itself will not be difficult.
2. Additional check on sensor contacts. Contamination or oxidation of contacts remain the causes that car owners encounter most often.
3. Examination of the sensor circuit to ensure integrity is maintained. To do this, take a multimeter and test the wires. Problems are usually associated with a short circuit or break in the contacts. It is best to replace damaged wires immediately, as they can operate in high temperatures, causing the connection to deteriorate.

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To remove the DS, you need to place the car on a level surface. After this, it is best to disconnect the battery terminals to avoid errors in the BC.

Disconnect the wire terminals; to do this, press the plastic lock on the block. After this, use a wrench to unscrew the sensor from its seat. If you cannot unscrew it immediately, it is not recommended to use excessive force. You need to treat the threaded connection with WD-40, wait a few minutes and continue dismantling.

Installation of a new DS is carried out in the reverse order. When purchasing a new part, you need to pay attention to the external condition: the contacts must be treated with a sufficient amount of varnish, as this protects them from moisture. After completing the work, it is necessary to reset the on-board computer errors in order to remove the CHECK ENGINE error.

Benefits of Execution

Chip tuning of the Chevrolet Niva engine allows you to obtain many tangible advantages:

significantly increase engine power - turbocharged power plants are strengthened by almost 35%, engines in which turbocharging is not provided - by almost 7%;

provided that an experienced specialist is involved in the work, carry out all operations as quickly as possible;

significantly increase dynamic acceleration performance;

using firmware, you can remove those restrictive settings that prevent the vehicle from accelerating to maximum speed;

Now you can reconfigure the engine, change the type of fuel it consumes, for example, AI - 92 to AI -95.

After flashing the Chevrolet Niva ECU, you can always return to the factory settings.

Location of the Chevrolet Niva speed sensor

Each vehicle is equipped with only the appropriate equipment, designed for a certain number of shaft rotations and installed in the appropriate seat. The Chevrolet Niva speed sensor is installed on the gearbox.

The sensor itself is a small steel or, more often than not, plastic device that is mounted in the shaft area. Inside the case there is a core that transmits impulses to a special controller responsible for displaying information on the instrument panel.

When carrying out work, it should be taken into account that the device can be quite fragile, so installation should be carried out with care.

On Niva DS is installed on the gearbox. This allows data to be read only while driving, turning off when the engine is in neutral.

The device itself consists of a plastic case, inside of which electronic components are located. For proper operation, it is placed in close proximity to the shaft. There is a built-in magnetic bar inside the shaft that creates electrical signals when rotated.

The product is quite fragile, so when dismantling or installing you must be extremely careful not to damage its body.

Stages of work execution

Chip tuning of the Chevrolet Niva, according to reviews, consists of the following steps:

you need to read a portion of the necessary data that is located in the ECU controller;

make the necessary adjustments to the program;

write updated data to the controller.

This correction allows you to obtain the following results:

increase the total power and dynamics of the engine;

ensure smooth movement without jerking.

The reprogramming procedure takes several hours to complete. During such work, mechanical intervention is not required.

Checking the sensors.

In order to check the DC, you need to have a multimeter, then follow a certain procedure:

1. Turn off the sensor.
2. We connect the red (positive) probe to the DC contact.
3. We connect the black (negative) probe to ground.
4. We fix a tube of suitable diameter onto the shaft in order to be able to rotate it.
5. We switch the multimeter switch to low voltage measurement mode.
6. It is necessary to rotate the shaft and observe the readings: as the speed increases, the readings on the multimeter display will increase. If the readings do not change, the sensor is faulty.

Another method does not require removing the sensor. To do this, you need to jack up one wheel so that it is at a distance from the ground and can rotate freely. After this, you need to connect a multimeter to the DC connectors. You need to rotate the wheel and observe the readings of the device. A change in voltage will also indicate performance.