Probably, many car enthusiasts have encountered a problem when the lower radiator pipe feels cold to the touch and the upper one is hot. This condition is normal for a car engine that is not warmed up and has not reached the coolant temperature of 80-90 degrees . But if the temperature has reached normal, but the lower pipe is still cold, then you should think about it. Most likely, this is a sign of a malfunction in the car's cooling system.
There may be several reasons for a cold lower radiator pipe when the upper one is hot. Firstly, this is a malfunction of the thermostat or pump. Secondly, you should pay attention to the radiator itself; it may be clogged. Now let's look at each possible problem separately.
Breakage of shut-off valves
Shut-off valves are designed to completely or partially cut off the coolant supply to the batteries. Its main components include :
- Ball Valves;
- valves;
- thermal heads equipped with a mechanical or automatic adjustment system.
Ball valve design
The bottom of the battery is cold and the top is hot due to a malfunction inside the tap. This may be due to a broken valve or any other violation of the correct operation of an element that interferes with the free circulation of fluid. You should also pay attention to the correct direction of valve installation. The manufacturer indicates the direction of water movement on the housing and installation must be carried out according to it. If installed incorrectly, water will not move through the pipe even in the open position of the shut-off valves.
Direction of water movement in the valve
Some cranes require correct positioning in space. For example, strictly horizontal or vertical location.
The cooling system (VAZ Lada Kalina) includes a number of functional elements:
- Engine cooling radiator. This unit is designed to reduce the temperature of heated antifreeze using a cold air flow.
- Radiator fan. This part performs the function of increasing the intensity of coolant cooling () in the system.
- Heater radiator. This is essentially a source of warm air for the car interior.
- Expansion tank. Since coolant tends to expand and contract with constant temperature fluctuations, this container serves to compensate for the volume of antifreeze in the system.
- Centrifugal pump or “pump”. This element carries out forced circulation of coolant through the channels of the vehicle system.
- Thermostat. This small, seemingly primitive part, performs a very important function: it regulates the required amount of antifreeze passing through the engine cooling radiator. Thanks to the thermostat, the most optimal temperature regime in the system is ensured.
- Coolant temperature sensor. This is one of the control elements of the ODS.
The engine cooling system diagram (Kalina 2117) is shown in the photo below:
Messages 11
1 Topic by Dmitriy.Bobilev 2015-07-07 21:11:34
- Dmitriy.Bobilev
- New member
- Inactive
- Registration: 2014-08-11
- Messages: 4 Thanks : 0
- Auto: 2110
Topic: All pipes are hot, but the engine is overheating
Hello everyone, in general, I have been fighting with CO for a long time, at the moment the symptoms are as follows: At idle, warming up goes as it should, it reaches about 88, the needle freezes, then it heats up like crazy, i.e. while you are driving normal, you just need to stand somewhere and let it work Carlson won’t be left behind later (that is, while you’re stuck in a traffic jam, it will turn on annoyingly every minute, maybe less! It’s worth driving 300-400 meters at speed and again in a circle) while the antifreeze on the small return circle from the larger radiator is normal, as soon as goes to a large trickle less and less, it may disappear altogether, the pump is luzar with an iron impeller, the thermostat is working, the radiator is hot evenly, the pipes are new, there is no air lock. I don’t even know what to look for, where to dig. It is advised to remove the gasket from the pump and place it on sealants in order to reduce the distance between the walls of the block and the impeller. Maybe the problem is still in the radiator? The pump is new.
By the way, the problem persists even in the rain and at an outside temperature of +10
2 Reply from Aleksandr.21124 2015-07-08 06:08:38 (2015-10-02 21:15:44 edited by Aleksandr.21124)
- Aleksandr.21124
- Brother-in-law
- Inactive
- Registration: 2014-08-11
- Messages: 392 Thanks : 169
- Car: VAZ 21124
Re: The pipes are all hot, but the engine is overheating
Dmitriy.Bobilev – Perhaps the radiator is clogged inside (if so, replacing it will help) and the radiator itself on the outside may be clogged with dirt (wash with a Karcher). And if you have a grille or mesh on the bumper below the state number (from flies and dirt), then remove it. And also turn off the two hoses that go to the throttle valve - this is a small circle of hot antifreeze (by turning off the car, it heats up less in hot weather). I switched it off myself and for a year now everything has been working fine both in winter and summer. This heating is not needed (it is removed during conversion) on the electronic throttle valve it is not present.
3 Reply from kuler_78 2015-07-08 07:53:38 (2015-07-08 08:03:29 edited by kuler_78)
- cooler_78
- Experienced
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- Registration: 2014-10-22
- Messages: 142 Thanks : 57
What to do if the engine overheats
First of all, it should be remembered that if the overheating is short-term (for example, the temperature needle rises in a traffic jam), then you should observe whether the temperature will drop after you start driving (counter air flow appears) or as a result of turning on the radiator fan.
If the car was already in motion and the engine temperature reached a critical level, you should not immediately turn off the engine. Also, you should not try to cool the engine by pouring water on it from outside, pouring cold water into the radiator, etc. Such actions will lead to the need to repair the internal combustion engine, and it may be necessary to change the BC and cylinder head.
To “cool down” the engine, you will need to pull off the road (if possible), stop the car and then turn the heater on to maximum, while the engine must continue to idle.
Next, you need to wait a few minutes, while simultaneously inspecting for obvious and strong signs of antifreeze/antifreeze leakage under the car or in the engine compartment. If no leaks are visible, but the temperature does not drop, the unit must be turned off.
We also recommend reading the article about why engine temperature drops when driving. From this article you will learn about possible reasons for a decrease in engine temperature while driving, as well as available methods for diagnosing this malfunction.
Please note that you need to immediately turn off the engine when steam starts coming out from under the hood; traces of intense coolant leakage are clearly visible. In this case, the engine must be stopped, without expecting that turning on the stove will reduce the heating.
Removing the air lock
Signs of the formation of an air lock in the cooling system are rapid warming up of the car to high temperatures and poor performance of the interior heater. This can be especially easy to notice in winter. The reasons for the appearance of an air lock are different:
- incorrect filling of coolant;
- engine overheating;
- depressurization of the system;
- damage to some parts, etc.
If, during the inspection, leakage of antifreeze (antifreeze) is detected in the system, traces of coolant on the engine or other places, the causes of the leak should be eliminated. Often depressurization occurs due to poor tightening of clamps on pipes and hoses. They need to be tightened up. Any deformed or faulty parts found should be replaced.
There are several ways to remove air pockets. The easiest one is to drive up a steep hill with your face up. Unscrew the radiator and expansion tank caps. Let the car warm up for 10-15 minutes. Then release the gas a little and fill the system with coolant to the required level. Continue until bubbles stop appearing.
In VAZ 2110, 2114, 2115 cars, airing is rare. The cause of similar symptoms may be clogged hoses or radiator.
Dirty radiator
The main reason for this, according to most experts, is a clogged radiator
. Over time, this important element of the cooling system becomes clogged with rust residue, dust, leaves and other debris. The location of the radiator is in front of the car. So, no matter what happens, it gets inside. Ultimately, all this leads to problems.
Since this reason is the most important, below is a method on how to clean a radiator. In addition, proper care of the radiator and its regular maintenance ensures the normal operation of the entire cooling system.
Once it has been decided to start by flushing the radiator, to eliminate the symptom described above, proceed in different ways:
- Or they go to the store and buy a new radiator;
- Or you can clean it yourself.
Important points:
- The radiator must be cleaned when the engine has completely cooled down;
- It is recommended to wear protective gloves and firmly fasten the car hood;
- All coolant is drained from the radiator and checked. If the liquid is perfectly clean and there are no traces of rust or scale in it, the radiator is clean and the reason for the cold pipe is different;
- If the liquid is dirty, then that's it. Pour clean water (necessarily distilled) inside. We start the engine and let it run for 20 minutes.
- We drain the water, check for cleanliness and, if necessary, repeat the procedure several times.
Coolant replacement
: Often, when replacing the coolant, beginners make a mistake and then complain about a cold pipe. This concerns a situation where the radiator itself is freed from old fluid, but the tank is forgotten. As a result, this affects the entire cooling system. It starts to act up and diagnostics give no clue.
Cars that most often have heat transfer problems
On some cars, the situation where the upper radiator hose is hot and the lower hose is cold is more common than others. Such models and their “childhood diseases” are collected in the table below.
| Brand, model | Cause of the problem | How can I fix it? |
| VAZ 2106, 2101 and other “Classics” | Low quality of original components, in particular the thermostats themselves, which jam. | Instead of the original VAZ thermostat valve, use parts from other companies: Metal Incar, Finwhale, Vernet. |
| The cold bottom of the radiator in a VAZ “Classic” with high mileage is a consequence of corrosion of parts and clogging of the radiator channels. | Flush the radiator using a special fluid or, if that doesn’t help, replace it. | |
| VAZ 2108-21099, 2113-2115, Kalina | A faulty expansion tank cap valve does not allow maintaining operating pressure in the cooling system, which disrupts coolant circulation and causes the heater to heat poorly. | Replace the expansion tank cap. |
| VAZ 2110 – 2112, Lada Priora | On the VAZ 2110-2112, the lower pipe is cold, and the heater blows cold due to the predisposition to the formation of traffic jams and disruption of coolant circulation. | Monitor the condition of the cooling circuit, remove plugs, especially when replacing antifreeze. As a radical solution, you can replace the thermostat with a “six-hole” one (art. 21082-1306010) or from Lada Granta (21900-1306010), adapting the circuit to it. |
| The upper pipe is heated, and the lower pipe is cold, due to exhaustion and lack of pump performance. | Install an improved pump, like the Luzar Turbo. | |
| Skoda Octavia | On the Skoda Octavia, the lower radiator pipe is cold, and the engine begins to overheat due to a faulty oil heat exchanger gasket. | Replace the oil heat exchanger gasket. |
| Daewoo lanos, Sens, ZAZ Chance | Cold lower pipe and radiator, a consequence of early opening or jamming of the thermostat. | Replace the thermostat with a better one that opens at 87 degrees. |
| Ford Focus | On a Ford Focus, the bottom of the radiator is cold and the top is hot, usually due to a stuck thermostat. | Replace the faulty thermostat. |
| Mazda 3 | On a Mazda 3, the lower pipe is cold, usually due to a faulty thermostat. | |
| Volkswagen Passat | With high mileage, the pump and thermostat fail. | Replace the pump or thermostat. |
| Suzuki Grand Vitara | Airing of the cooling system due to pressure failure. | Remove air pockets. Replace the expansion tank cap, which often becomes clogged or, on the contrary, does not hold pressure. |
Battery clogged
Taking into account the low quality of the coolant supplied to heating systems, clogging becomes a very common cause of poor heating. The issue becomes especially relevant during the start of the heating season. In private homes, the system is autonomous, and clogging can only occur through an open expansion tank.
Battery clogged
To clean the battery, disconnect it from the pipes and rinse it. The first time hot water is poured in, then special solutions can be used.
Cleaning or replacing the radiator
The radiator, located in the front of the car, absorbs the main flow of dust and dirt. For its effective operation, timely prevention and cleaning is necessary. The radiator can become dirty both inside and outside.
An indicator of internal cleanliness is the condition of the coolant. Manufacturers recommend changing antifreeze every 75,000 km or every 5 years. However, a change in the color of the liquid, severe darkening, discoloration, or the presence of rust requires urgent replacement of the coolant. It is recommended to change antifreeze at least every 40,000 km.
To carry out internal cleaning of the cooling system of VAZ 2110, 2114, 2115, it is necessary to drain the liquid. Sequencing:
- open the expansion tank cap;
- place a container to drain the antifreeze;
- Unscrew the drain plug from the cylinder block;
- drain the refrigerant;
- unscrew the radiator drain plug (located at the lowest point);
- drain the remaining antifreeze (antifreeze);
- tighten all the plugs.
To clean, pour distilled water into the system and start the engine for about 20 minutes. Ordinary water contains many impurities and forms scale, so its use is undesirable. The liquid is drained several times until clean water flows out. This method is ineffective as it removes a small amount of deposits.
For more effective washing, it is advisable to use special chemical additives. The detergent components included in their composition allow you to dissolve deposits and remove various types of contaminants. The mixture of water and vinegar used by many motorists is less effective. It does not remove all deposits. After using chemicals, the cooling system is washed with distillate.
How to determine the reason why the lower radiator hose is cold and the upper one is hot
The lower radiator hose is slightly cooler than the upper one, since the antifreeze coming from above cools down as it passes through the radiator. But, as a rule, we are talking about a relatively small temperature difference. When the outlet pipe/hose from the radiator does not warm up at all, this indicates a violation of the coolant circulation and heat exchange in the internal combustion engine.
All common reasons why a cold lower radiator pipe does not heat up normally are collected in the table.
| Possible reason | Consequence | How to understand/define it |
| The thermostat is stuck in the closed or half-closed position. | The coolant circulates in a small circle and does not cool. |
|
| The expansion tank cap valve is faulty. | The pressure in the circuit is not automatically regulated, which may cause air pockets. |
|
| The radiator channels (lines) are clogged. | Antifreeze does not pass through the radiator and circulates mainly in a small circle. |
|
| The water pump impeller is worn out. | The pump cannot create the required pressure, which causes the coolant circulation and heat transfer from the engine to the radiator to deteriorate. |
|
| There is an air lock in the cooling circuit. | Coolant circulation deteriorates, heat exchange is disrupted, and pipes may swell and rupture. |
|
Thermostat
The problem may also be related to the thermostat. This device is small in size and has the ability to block coolant. As a result, problems occur, including those related to the cold pipe.
By the way, the problem with the thermostat also affects the upper pipe. It can also be cold, but the bottom one, on the contrary, can be hot. All this taken together cannot in any way indicate the normal operation of the entire cooling system.
Drain the liquid from the thermostat, loosen its bolts and remove the device.
As a result, we gave three main reasons why this happens. Thus, having found out why the lower radiator pipe is cold, we draw the appropriate conclusions and act according to the situation.
Greetings to all readers on the RtiIvaz.ru blog. The article examines all VAZ radiator pipes that exist today and are used in Lada cars ever produced by the plant.
In any modern car that has a liquid cooling system, all kinds of pipes are used to connect the elements of the system. When operating a car, special attention should be paid to them, since if not noticed in time, a defect that appears can lead to serious consequences for the engine of your car.
From my many years of experience, I can conclude that attention should be paid not only to the pipes themselves, but also to the clamps that serve as a guarantor of the connection. There are cases when a clamp that is not tightened or has come loose ultimately leads to a major overhaul of the engine.
To make it easier for you to navigate the vast “sea” of today’s spare parts, I offer you this review article, which shows everything in detail. For a more complete overview, all presented materials have design numbers and visual photographs.
We start the review with classic models and present the radiator pipes of the VAZ 2101-2105 cooling system, used with a copper radiator, which have a number of advantages over the aluminum radiators used today, namely: the possibility of subsequent repairs, higher heat capacity, longer service life.
The pipes for Lada 2101-2105 cars are presented in the amount of 4 pieces. The upper supply pipe (on the right in the photograph, see further at the end of the article) has a design number: VAZ 2105-1303025 1-one; outlet sleeve (left) 2101-1303010 1-one; thermostat bypass pipe (corner in the middle) 2101-1303090 1-one also coupling connecting the thermostat and water pump (short in the middle) 2105-1303092 1-one piece.
The pipes of the copper radiator of the VAZ differ from the aluminum ones in their size; they have lower “discharge” hoses that are different in shape.
I advise you to pay special attention to the lower outlet pipe during installation. The lower fastening clamp is made technologically in a very inaccessible place and it is very difficult to make a high-quality tightening, which very often causes leakage. In this case, I advise you to completely remove the radiator and assemble the unit separately.
Removal takes no more than 10-15 minutes and will guarantee a reliable tightening. In this case, assemble all the pipes together with the thermostat in place except the upper one and install it in this form on the car. Since they are made of rubber and bend easily, installing the assembled unit is not difficult.
Next, we will consider a set of aluminum radiator pipes for the VAZ classic 2101-2107, also consisting of 4 hoses. The longest one on the far right in the photo is the top one (inlet), with a small angle of inclination the bottom one (outlet), the smallest one (the short one) goes to the thermostat, with an angle of ninety degrees (corner) the one on the far left in the photo goes to the pump.
Design numbers: VAZ 2105—1303025-10 (aluminum upper inlet pipe) 1 piece. 2105-1303010-10 (aluminum bottom outlet pipe) 1 piece. 2105-1303092 (coupling for connecting thermostat and water pump) 1 piece. 2101-1303090 thermostat bypass pipe (angle) 1 piece.
Next comes a set of radiator pipes for VAZ front-wheel drive models and we begin the review from the most common of them, Lada 2109, to the main radiator of the carburetor engine cooling system.
The set of pipes consists of four pieces: the upper inlet (wave) in the middle, see photos, the bottom outlet on the left, see photo, also two short ones (short ones), located on the right, see photos, connecting pipes for the thermostat and the water pump.
Design numbers of the upper supply pipes 2108-1303025 1-one; lower outlet 2108-1303010 1-one; connecting couplings for thermostat and water pump 2108-1303092 2 pieces. The pipes of a carburetor engine differ from the pipes of an injection engine and will be considered separately.
The Lada 2110 car has an injection engine. The set consists of four hoses, and have the following design numbers: upper radiator inlet pipe (in the middle of the photo) VAZ-2110-130302525 1-one and lower radiator outlet pipe (from the left in the photo) 2110-130302510 1-one, and two short thermostat and water pump couplings (on the right in the photo) 2110-1303092 2 pieces.
The upper inlet brings cooled liquid to the radiator at the top, and the lower outlet takes the heated coolant to the bottom of the radiator engine, as happens on most Lada cars.
The VAZ -2115 radiator kit includes three pipes. Design numbers: inlet pipe (on the left in the photo); 21082-1303025 1-one, outlet (in the middle of the photo) 21082-1303010 1-one, connecting pipes for the thermostat and water pump (on the right in the photo) 2109-1303093-01 1-one.
The smallest representative of the VAZ Oka family - 1111 has not been forgotten. The set of small car pipes consists of four hoses: design numbers of the outlet (from the left in the photo) 1111-1303010 1-one; supply (in the middle of the photo) 1111-1303090 1-one; coupling (short) 1111-1303092 1 piece; 2101-1303090 thermostat bypass pipe (angle) one.
And we complete the selection by showing the radiator cooling system pipes for modern classics equipped with an injector. Equipment: VAZ-21073 injection engine.
The upper supply hose (on the left in the photo) has design number VAZ-21073-1303025 1-one; lower outlet pipe 2105-1303010-10 1-one; 2101-1303090 thermostat bypass pipe (angle) one and 2105-1303092 coupling connecting thermostat also water pump 1 piece.
Additionally presented at the end of the article are the filler necks of the VAZ 2110 tank, which is compatible with the entire family of tens, and is slightly different in size from the tank neck of the Lada 2108, we are mutually interchangeable and then we see a picture of the long tank neck of the car 21099 of the family of nines and fourteens.
Copper radiator cooling hoses 2101-2107
Copper radiator cooling system pipes:
The radiator pipe of the VAZ 2101-2105 cooling system of the copper radiator consists of four pipes.
They have design numbers:
- Outlet pipe (number 1 on the left) 2101-1303010 1 piece.
- Thermostat bypass pipe (in the middle is corner number 2) 2101-1303090 1 piece.
- Connecting coupling for the thermostat and water pump (short one in the middle, number 3) 2105-1303092 1 piece.
- Upper pipe supplying VAZ 2105-1303025 1 piece (on the right in the photo under number 4).
The pipes of a copper radiator differ from those of an aluminum radiator in their sizes and the lower “discharge” sleeves are different in shape.
Auto 2101-2107 top view
Side view of the aluminum radiator VAZ 2101-2107
Let's look at the aluminum radiator pipes of the Lada 2101-2107. They are installed on Lada 2101-2107 cars, which have an aluminum radiator. The kit consists of four pipes. The longest one on the far right, see photos, is called the top “supply”, with a small angle of inclination, the bottom “discharge”, the smallest (short) goes to the thermostat and the pipe with an angle of ninety degrees (corner) on the far left, see photos, goes to the pump.
- 2101-1303090 thermostat bypass pipe (angle number 1) 1 piece.
- 2105-1303092 (coupling of the connecting thermostat and water pump number 2) 1 piece.
- 2105-1303010-10 (aluminum radiator outlet pipe, lower number 3) 1 piece.
- VAZ 2105—1303025-10 (supply pipe of the upper aluminum radiator, number 4) 1 piece.
All about the cooling system pipe of the Lada VAZ 2105 aluminum radiator.
Next time we will get acquainted with the hoses of the cooling system of VAZ 2108-21099 carburetor engines.
Top view of VAZ 2109, carburetor engine
Let's look today at the radiator pipes of the Lada VAZ 2109 main radiator of the carburetor engine cooling system.
The set of pipes consists of four pipes of the upper “inlet” (wave) in the middle, see the photo, the lower “outlet” on the left in the photo and two short ones (short) on the right, see the photo, connecting hoses for the thermostat and the water pump.
- Radiator pipe VAZ lower outlet 2108-1303010 1 piece. (number 1).
- Radiator pipe VAZ upper inlet 2108-1303025 1 piece. (wave number 2, see figure).
- Connecting couplings for thermostat and water pump 2108-1303092 2 pieces. (short ones numbered 3 and 4).
I’ll also add that the radiator pipe of a VAZ carburetor engine differs from the pipe of an injection engine.
Next in the photo we will look at the pipe of the Lada 2110 car:
View of the pipe from the side of a VAZ 2110
Let's look at a set of pipes for the cooling system of a Lada 2110 injection engine. The kit consists of four hoses.
- Lower outlet pipe (from the left in the photo under number 1) 2110-130302510 1 piece.
- Upper supply pipe (in the middle of the photo, number 2) VAZ-2110-130302525 1 piece.
- Two short couplings connecting the thermostat and water pump (numbers 3 and 4 on the right in the photo) 2110-1303092 2 pieces.
The upper inlet hose supplies cooled liquid from the radiator from above, and the lower outlet hose removes heated coolant to the bottom of the engine, this happens in most VAZ cars.
Side view of car 2115
The VAZ-2115 radiator kit consists of three pieces.
Radiator hose design numbers:
- “Leading” (on the left of the photo under number 1) 21082-1303025 1 piece.
- “Discharge” (in the middle of photo no. 2) 21082-1303010 1 piece.
- Connecting pipe between thermostat and water pump (on the right, see photo number 3) 2109-1303093-01 1 piece.
Cooling system pipe of the small car Oka VAZ-1111. Consist of four radiator pipes.
- Outlet (from the left, see photo number 1) 1111-1303010 1 piece.
- Leading (see photo number 2 in the middle) 1111-1303090 1 piece.
- Connecting couplings (short number 3) 1111-1303092 1 piece.
- 2101-1303090 thermostat bypass pipe (angle number 4) 1 piece.
Nowadays, cars with carburetor engines are becoming history. In front of you is a photo of a VAZ-21073 injection engine pipe with an aluminum radiator.
VAZ 21073 injection
- Upper supply pipe (on the left, see photo number 1) VAZ-21073-1303025 1 piece.
- 2105-1303092 coupling connecting thermostat and water pump (number 2) 1 piece.
- Outlet pipe of the lower aluminum radiator (number 3): VAZ-2105-1303010-10 1 piece.
- VAZ-2101-1303090 thermostat bypass pipe (angle number 4) 1 piece.
Tank filler neck 2110
The filler neck of the tank of a VAZ 2110 car of the tenth family, it is similar to the tank neck pipe of the 2108, differs slightly in size and is interchangeable.
Filler neck of the tank VAZ 21099
Filler neck of the VAZ 21099 tank for cars of the nines and fourteeners family.
Heater hoses VAZ 2101 inlet hoses number 1 - 2101-8101200 and outlet “L-shaped” number 2 - 2101-8101204
Heater hoses VAZ 1111 Oka large inlet number 3 - 1111-8101202, middle outlet 2 - 2101-8101204 and small inlet number 1 - 1111-8101206
Heater hoses VAZ 2108 inlet “big goose” rear number 1 - 2108-8101206, heater outlet hose rear “small goose” 2 - 2108-8101208, heater outlet hose front “small inside the car” 3 - 2108-8101204, heater hose front inlet “large in the cabin” 4 - 2108-8101200
Heater hoses VAZ 2108 inlet “big goose” rear number 4 - 2114-8101206, heater outlet hose rear “small goose” 3 - 2114-8101208, front heater inlet hose “small in the cabin” 1 - 2114-8101200, heater outlet hose front “large inside the car” 2 - 2114-8101204
Heater inlet hoses “large” number 1 - 2111-8101200 and outlet “small” 2 - 2111-8101208
Heater hoses: outlet "Chevy Niva" number 1 - 2123-8101204 and supply 2 - 2123-8101200
Throttle carburetor heating hose 48 cm - 2112-1148038
Radiator steam exhaust pipe “antifreeze tenth” - 2110-1303095
Filling hose for the expansion tank cooling system - 21082-1303080
Cooling system filling hose “stick” - 2111-1303080
Lower crankcase exhaust ventilation hose “large breather” 2108-1014056-10
Lower crankcase exhaust ventilation hose “large breather” - 2112-1014056
Crankcase exhaust ventilation hose “breather Niva” - 2121-1014056
Exhaust pipe hose “snail 8 cells” - 2111-1148035-10
Exhaust pipe hose “snail 16 cl” - 2112-1148035-10
You can also check out other materials:
Sometimes, even experienced motorists wonder: why is the lower pipe on the VAZ 2114 cold? It is impossible to answer this question unequivocally; there are many reasons that lead to disturbances in the engine cooling system. One thing is clear: it is necessary to find out the cause of the breakdown and restore the system to avoid problems with the engine. Let's try to thoroughly understand everything.
