The VAZ-2110 starter does not turn: reasons, what to do?

The purpose of the starter device is to spin the crankshaft when starting the engine. This unit is considered one of the main ones in the ignition system, and its failure can lead to the inability to start the engine as a whole. For what reasons does the 2110 starter not turn and how to replace the mechanism with your own hands - we will talk about this below.

Checking starter components

You can detect wear on the graphite brushes only by disassembling the starter housing. If the car is used for a long time and under heavy loads, then wear will be clearly visible on the brushes, although the factory safety margin allows it to function for a long time and without failure. In some cases, wear on the graphite brushes can block the operation of the solenoid relay, so the characteristic clicking noise will not be heard.

Burnt windings can be detected not only by visual inspection, but also by the unpleasant smell of burning. This element cannot be repaired or replaced, so you will have to completely replace the starter.

You can check the functionality of the relay without special equipment. Inside it there are three terminals: an input from the battery, an output to the starter and a small terminal to the control system. You can try to close the contacts of large terminals with a well-insulated screwdriver, without touching the housing elements. If rotation occurs, the problem is with the relay. After such testing, the relay will not work for a long time, so it is better to immediately replace it with a new one.

Sources

ladaautos.ru/vaz-2110/chto-delat-esli-vaz-2110-ne-zavoditsya-pri-etom-starter-ne-krutit-i-ne-shhelkaet.html
zen.yandex.ru/media/avtobloger/vtiagivaiuscee-scelkaet-no-starter-ne-krutit-prostoe-reshenie-problemy-za-kopeiki-5ce8ce214bdca600b3cba06b
vazweb.ru/desyatka/elektrooborudovanie/ne-krutit-starter.html
drive2.ru/c/2562200/
remont-inomarki.ru/pochemu-ne-krutit-starter-v-vaz-2110.html

How to remove and install the starter relay

VAZ 2110 starter protection relay

To disassemble the starter you need to follow several simple steps:

The car should be prepared for further work (washing, placing it in a stationary state).
The negative terminal from the battery should be removed.
The air filter housing is dismantled.
The traction relay wire block is disconnected from the relay.
Using a key with the number “13”, unscrew the nut securing the tip of the starter power drive.

On a VAZ 2110 the starter relay is located

A wrench with the number “15” is used to unscrew the two nuts that secure the starter.

VAZ 2110 starter relay wiring diagram

Assembling the starter and installing it in its original location occurs in the reverse order.

VAZ 2110 installation of an additional relay on the starter

The main malfunctions of the traction relay are several important problems. If one of the reasons is present, then the traction relay should be replaced with a new one.

VAZ 2110 starter relay clicks - needs to be replaced with a new one

If you continue to use a damaged relay in your car, other parts may suffer:

In the case when the anchor stops rotating. The relay stops working after connecting the starter when starting the car.
The same armature continues to rotate, but its speed is significantly reduced. This happens after activating the starter and connecting the traction relay.
The starter works flawlessly, the traction relay is connected, but after a few seconds, the car engine “stalls”.

VAZ 21102 where the starter protection relay is located you need to know

The main reasons for these problems may be:

Interturn closure of the relay.
Breaks in the power supply circuit.
Untimely operation of the armature or its idle operation.
Oxidation of wires, connections, windings.
The nuts that secure the wire lugs have loosened and loosened the contact.

To get rid of these problems, you need to do several steps:

The traction relay is being replaced.
Check and, if necessary, replace wires.
The armature rotation must be returned to light operation.
Clean the bolts and check the nuts for tightness.

Since the traction relay is part of the vehicle's electrical system, its repair or replacement must be carried out with care and special attention. This process can be dangerous to human health

The car can be entrusted to employees of technological service stations and repair shops. If you decide to carry out repairs yourself, you should follow all safety rules when working with electricity.

Repair and replacement of equipment must be carried out on an observation platform or pit. A prerequisite is to remove the mudguard from the car engine.

All the above steps must be carried out in strict order.

After the process of dismantling the starter, you should perform a few more simple steps:

The lower terminal of the traction relay has a fastening in the form of a nut. It should be unscrewed using a 10 mm wrench.
The wire is disconnected there.
Use a wrench with a stroke of 8 millimeters to unscrew the mounting bolts.
The traction relay is removed.
The gasket located between the front cover and the relay itself is disconnected.
The front cover has a spring, an armature and a traction relay. They must be carefully removed from it.

Traction relay

It is imperative to know that you can check the traction relay using standard instruments. To check it, you should use an ohmmeter.

It is necessary to check the presence of a short circuit between the contact bolts and the contact plate. As for the price of relays, they are different.

It’s rare when their cost drops to 750 rubles. Naturally, the cost is indicated depending on the delivery range of the mechanisms and the markup of the sales representative.

Video and photo materials will help you do your own work. The main thing is to do everything as required by the instructions.

Sources

Special cases

Charge the battery.
Clean and compress the contacts on the battery and starter.

check the battery - close the contacts with a wire, a spark should appear that will melt it;
pass the plus from the battery directly to the solenoid relay.

In the morning the starter turned, after 15 minutes I warmed up the car, then started it, but it didn’t move, the starter closed just a spark and silence, what should I do? I installed a new relay

If the devices go out when you start them, then look at the wiring near the battery, if not, then look at the retractor, try to tap it well, if it’s just stuck, then when it helps. And charge the battery well.

VAZ 2110 injector, started it on autostart, worked for 10 minutes and stalled. Now I can’t start, the starter doesn’t turn, can you tell me what’s the reason?

When you start it, the starter only makes a click, but if you connect it directly, it just turns.

Exal everything was normal and suddenly the car stalled, the panel went dark, then after 10 seconds everything turned on again, released the clutch, started. Everything is fine, I arrived, installed it, then started it, turned the key - the starter doesn’t turn, but turns straight.

The car was working normally, I came to put it in the garage, start it, but there was only a click and no movement, there was no current on the positive wire. What reasons could there be?

There may be no mass from the engine to the passenger compartment, the pigtail has broken

The starter stopped turning, everything else works. Start from the pusher, what could happen?

If it turns straight, there may be a problem with the mounting block or ignition switch. Check the voltage on the retractor, although it may be there, but the current strength is not enough to operate the relay.

The starter doesn't turn. You close the bolts - it turns, and starts with half a turn. He doesn’t want to use the key, the relay clicks once and there’s silence. What could be the matter?

Look, this thing is about the retractor :)

VAZ 2109 injector, this is the problem, started it half a turn, drove 30 km and the car stalled, all the devices went out, checked the wires on the generator, on the battery, but it didn’t help , a day later I started it at idle, it works, but when you give it gas it starts to burn! It worked for a little bit and stalled and all the devices went out again, no signs of life, tell me what could be the reason?

I started the car (2109i), drove for 1-2 km, and heard the sound of a tick-tick-tick. etc. almost at the same frequency, the revs were all right, after 500m I stopped, opened the hood (I didn’t turn off the car), there was a sound, then I turned off the car, tried to start it - no noise Lo, one click, the instrument panel lights up, no trills from the starter side, one click and silence, the towbar did not start (it was in 3rd gear, released the clutch - silence). The battery is normal, I cleaned the terminals, nothing, changed the battery - nothing. The idle speed sensor began to crackle every time I turned the key. I connected the starter directly to the battery - silence, changed the ignition relay - silence. The car has an immobilizer installed - it works now differently than before - When you turn the key so that the dashboard lights up, it should flash - it requires a key - now it just doesn’t flash, you take it out the key or in the “off” position the immobilizer diode lights up steadily. I blame him for now, maybe he blocked everything for me. There are no other explanations yet.

Why is it needed, its price, how much will the auto service charge for replacement, what malfunctions can arise, what the danger is, how to fix it, etc.

The door on the six closes with noise, and for this you need to make an effort? This article will tell you how you can get rid of the problem. This article talks about silent locks on the BAZ 2106. You will find out how much they cost and how to install them.

Where is it located (depending on the year of manufacture); when should it be changed and how to do it? And also get advice that will protect you from making a serious mistake.

Checking spark plugs and sparks

If the engine does not start within five seconds, there is no use turning the starter. You can try to start it again, but it’s unlikely to help. Moreover, operating the starter for too long can lead to overheating and even fire.

If you try to start a carburetor engine for a long time, gasoline will flood the spark plugs and make further starting attempts impossible in principle. The injectors have a purge mode, so the spark plugs can be dried without removing them from the car - you just need to press the gas pedal to the floor and turn the starter.

Clean working spark plugs VAZ 2110

But these are half measures. First of all, you should unscrew at least one spark plug, put the wire back on it and position the spark plug on the engine so that there is a distance of about three millimeters between the metal part of the spark plug and the metal of the engine. Turn on the starter and make sure that there is a uniform spark between the spark plug contacts.

Checking the spark in the spark plugs of the VAZ 2110

Do this check for each candle. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then there are global problems in the ignition system.

The overrunning clutch has failed

A cold engine starts without the slightest problem. You are driving quietly, stopping somewhere - to go to the store or for other matters. You return a few minutes later and are faced with a problem: the starter clicks, but refuses to work. And only after the engine has cooled down the car starts.

The first culprit in this situation is the overrunning clutch (popularly called Bendix, from the name of the well-known manufacturer of this part). It is better to replace it with a gearbox.

But you check and there is no malfunction? The next line is the wires going to the battery. Examine them carefully. It is quite possible that replacing the wire will solve all the issues.

There may be another situation: while on the road, the radio starts to turn off spontaneously, despite your attempts to turn it on. Having stopped to look and turned off your VAZ 2110, you soon discover that you cannot get the starter to crank. We checked the battery, everything is fine, but the car, which previously started normally, suddenly struggles.

You start pushing, and it works, everything works again. Almost certainly the problem is in the Bendix.

The process of removing the starter and installing a new element

Initially, you need to turn off the power to the car by disconnecting the terminals from the battery.

Starter removal process:

Place the car on the inspection pit. If this is not possible, use an overpass or just a good jack.
Lift one side, remove the wheel, remove the boot or crankcase guard (if equipped).
The next step is to unscrew the top nut that secures the starter. This can be done both from the engine compartment and from under the car - whatever is convenient. Additionally, unscrew the nut that secures the terminal to the solenoid relay. Remove it so it doesn't interfere.
Disconnect the nearby wire going to the starter.
The final step is to unscrew the nut, which secures the part from below.
Now you can pull the element out of the clutch housing.

Checking starter malfunction:

Take a flathead screwdriver and try to move the coupling forward/backward along the shaft. It should spin easily and not hit anything.
Use a screwdriver to turn the gear. If everything is spinning in the same direction, everything is fine. If the scrolling goes in the opposite direction, the part will need repair.
Checking the retractor relay is carried out using two wires with “crocodiles” for convenience. Place the red one on the positive terminal of the battery, and place the other end on the control terminal of the relay. Use the negative conductor to connect the negative battery and the starter housing. After such actions, a click will appear and the clutch will come forward. After disconnecting the wires, the coupling will return.
The final stage of the test is to disconnect the wire from the control terminal of the traction relay. Connect the crocodile clips in exactly the same way. When voltage is applied, the starter armature should spin at a frequency of more than 5 thousand revolutions per minute. If everything is so, the element is working.

Installing a new starter is carried out in the reverse order of removal. If you do not want to completely change the part in question, but want to repair it, then we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the relevant information. We do not recommend that you do everything yourself without knowledge of the entire process. In this case, it is better to contact a service station.

To summarize, we note that the starter on the VAZ-2110, as on other cars, is a very important unit, the failure of which is a rather unpleasant situation. In the article we examined the main points for dismantling the old part and installing a new element. Carrying out the work should not cause any difficulties. It is enough to use the recommendations from the article to successfully repair your car.

Price issue

Many owners are interested in how much this device costs and which starter is best to choose for the VAZ 2110. A standard unit from AvtoVAZ will cost about 5,000 rubles. Imported analogues are also suitable for the VAZ 2110. For example, you can take the BOSCH model, which costs about 10 thousand rubles.

There are also budget freelance models on the automotive market; they can be purchased for 3 thousand rubles. Whatever the starter, it should come with a warranty. Of course, the imported version works better, but the standard device has an excellent price-quality ratio.

What to do if the starter does not turn, repair on a VAZ 2110

Hello, dear motorists! We are sure that it is no secret to you: to start a car engine, you need to turn the crankshaft.

This rotation occurs with the help of a starter, which is essentially a DC electric motor. Its power is determined by the moment of resistance to turning the crankshaft and its minimum rotation speed.

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of the work performed by the starter - despite its small dimensions, it has to perform actions that ensure the rotation of the flywheel and, subsequently, the movement of the piston group of the engine

A situation has arisen when the VAZ 2110 starter does not work

Starters are fairly reliable mechanisms and often do not have problems in operation for a long time, but after five to six years of operation, some problems are still possible. So, for example, the most common situations when the VAZ 2110 starter does not work for the first time:

the appearance of any defect in the power circuit (the starter does not have enough electrical power to turn the necessary elements)
heating of the windings, which occurs due to prolonged cranking of the starter and contributes to rapid deterioration of the insulation
The VAZ 2110 starter does not work even if the bushings fail, which prevents the normal rotation of the armature shaft.

Why doesn't the VAZ2110 starter turn?

The VAZ 2110 starter does not turn if the tips are loose or oxidized. The first aid in such a situation is to first clean and tighten all the terminals.

Disassembly and repair of the VAZ 2110 starter are provided if the relay is faulty (displaced, stuck or broken). In order for your “ten” to work again, it will be enough to eliminate the malfunction by replacing the failed parts.

A short circuit in any place of the starter winding also leads to its complete failure to work.

The absence of a full contact in the ignition switch requires checking the switch (lock) and, possibly, replacing its contact part.

The starter of the VAZ 2110 turns poorly - diagnostics of the condition and troubleshooting

If, when turned on, the VAZ 2110 starter turns poorly, cranking the crankshaft very slowly - first of all, pay attention to the oil - maybe it simply does not correspond to the season. Starter operation will be restored after replacing the oil with a more suitable one for the given time of year.

If the battery is discharged or its terminals and tips are oxidized, then immediately after eliminating these faults (charging the battery and maintaining the contact group), normal operation of the starter will be restored.

Poor starter performance is often caused by poor contact between the starter brushes and loose wire ends. In this case, you will have to remove and disassemble the starter, clean the commutator, change the brushes and adjust the spring tension.

If, after disassembling the starter, you find that the freewheel is slipping, the only correct solution is to replace the starter drive.

It is easy to correct the situation when the starter drive is difficult to follow the screw thread - you just need to first wash the shaft thread and then lubricate it with oil.

The nicks that appear in the teeth of the flywheel crown make themselves known by a characteristic grinding noise, which can only be eliminated by removing the nicks. A similar grinding noise is heard when the buffer spring is weakened. In this case, it will have to be replaced.

But a loud noise that accompanies the operation of the starter may indicate a loosening of the pole (when the armature seems to “catch” the pole) or the starter itself. In the first case, it is enough to strengthen the pole fastening by tightening the screw, and in the second, securely fasten the starter.

Even if you have a new car, you should not neglect monitoring the condition of the starter, because timely prevention and diagnosis of its malfunctions can significantly extend the life of the main starting device of your “ten” - the starter.

During the operation of vehicles, regardless of the type of engine installed, a common malfunction is starter failure, as a result of which it is not possible to start the engine after turning on the ignition. In other words, the car starter does not respond to turning the key in the ignition switch. In such situations, after turning the key, instead of cranking the engine crankshaft, the starter is completely silent, buzzes or makes clicks, but does not turn the engine. Next, we will look at the main malfunctions when the starter does not respond in any way to turning the key in the ignition, as well as other reasons that may cause the starter to not work.

Read in this article

All features of the standard scheme

The reader will be surprised, but there will be more than one scheme here. The most difficult option is shown below.

Scheme with additional starter relay

Please note: relay K2 is not “unloading” at all. A significant current flows through the lock contacts, and relay K2 can be called “blocking”: when it does not work, the starter does not turn. Why is this necessary, think for yourself.

If an attacker closes the contacts in the lock, he will not only be unable to start the engine, but also not use the starter. That is, the hijacker will not drain our battery.

The circuit shown above is used with 1.6 liter injection engines. There may be another option - a simpler one.

Scheme without additional relay

There is no blocking relay here. The current flows to the solenoid relay from pin 50. A simple version of the circuit is typical for cars from early years of production. Which applies to the entire “Ten” family, including hatchbacks. That is, an interesting combination occurs: the model is VAZ-2112, and the starter will turn even in the absence of all relays and ECUs!

The starter doesn't turn, what happens?

We know that there are two variants of the scheme. If “option 2” is implemented, voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the lock. But the ignition switch in the “Tens” is short-lived, since 30-40 Amperes are transmitted through it (the current of the solenoid relay). This is true for both the sedan and the 2112 hatchback, and the starter may not turn only because the lock is broken. Draw your conclusions!

All of the above also applies to “diagram 1” - look at it carefully.

The main relay is located in the extension block. It is located under the stove on the right. An additional relay is located in the main unit (see photo). However, it may be missing.

If “option 2” is implemented, check only the lock. And if there is an additional relay, it is not recommended to install a jumper instead. Marked in the photo:

Additional relay (white arrow);
Main relay (element “6”).

Final check before replacing the starter

We turn the key to position II, and nothing happens... In this case, open the hood and remove the air filter by unscrewing the screw on the body and loosening the clamp on the pipe. The starter is located under the filter housing. In the photo we see the following: someone disconnected the solenoid relay cord.

What we found under the filter, we check with a needle probe that when you turn the key, “+12” appears. Then, after checking, we wrap the cord with electrical tape.

The copper is polished to a shine;
The wire (see photo) is supplied with “plus”;
The starter doesn't even click.

The first thing you need to check is the battery contacts. We remove the terminals (key “10”) and look at what is under them. There is no point in measuring the voltage with a probe - it will show “12 Volts”.

General reasons why the VAZ 2109 starter does not turn

There is only one click, and then silence.
You hear several clicks in succession.
There are no clicks or other signs of life.

The power bolts on the retractor relay - they were burnt. Because of this, a voltage of less than the required 12 volts reaches it.
The fork pushing out the Bendix – it could have broken or been somehow deformed. Because of this, the Bendix does not fully reach the flywheel, the cores only partially enter the coil, and the contacts open.
In the Bendix - the teeth on it were worn out. Therefore, there is no voltage from the solenoid relay at the starter.
Armature brushes or bushings - they are worn out.
Winding short circuit.

The battery is dead.
Its terminals - they have become sour or weakened.
Holding winding - it poorly fixes the core, which is retracted by the retracting winding.

Short circuit of the winding - in this case you should smell a burning smell and see smoke.
The ring located in the starter reducer - it has collapsed.
The key is to try to replace it.

The VAZ 2110 starter buzzes, but does not turn the engine.

Indicates that the electrical circuit is being closed and power is being supplied to the motor brushes. The electric motor is in working condition. The holding coil of the solenoid relay does not operate and the bendix does not move. Bendix gear does not engage with flywheel gear. The electric motor runs in idle mode. The cause may be either mechanical or electrical in nature.

Mechanical part. The force from the relay retracting element is transmitted to the bendix through a plastic lever shaped like a grip. If there is high resistance to the movement of the bendix along the rotor shaft, this plastic part breaks. The Bendix does not move to the working position, and the starter rotates without transmitting torque to the flywheel.

Another mechanical reason for the starter idling is the destruction of the teeth on the engine flywheel. The malfunction refers to a motor failure and is not directly related to the operation of the drive. The likelihood of such a malfunction may be indicated by the activation of all working elements of the starter, the spin-up of the electric motor and the transfer of the bendix to the working position, which is detected by a characteristic click when turning the ignition key.

No contact

The starter starts with difficulty, before clicking. At first you are only slightly alarmed, but the situation repeats itself again and again: first it clicks, and only then the engine turns.

Have you checked your contacts lately? You need to start with the battery, maybe you are wrong to blame the starter, and the reason is oxidation of the terminals. Have you cleaned them and the starter clicks again? You need to check how your VAZ has ground contact with the body, and then the contacts of the starter itself, because they are also prone to oxidation.

Another test method: ask someone to turn the ignition key, while you yourself knock on the relay, using only a hard object. If it starts, it means that the closing contacts (nickels) are stuck, and it is easier to change the relay than to disassemble and repair it.

Where is the VAZ 2110 starter relay located?

The solenoid relay is built inside the main body along with the starter itself. To dismantle, you need to follow the following algorithm:

Determine the location of the starter itself. It is located to the left, just below the battery. You need to look for it in the immediate vicinity of the checkpoint.
Disconnect the negative contact from the battery. This will help avoid troubles during dismantling (electric shock).
Dismantle the air filter to free up the “passage” for further actions.
Disconnect all wires that go to the relay.
Dismantle the nut that serves as a fastener for the end of the wire. For this procedure you need a key of 13.
Unscrew the nuts that focus the starter itself. To unscrew them, you need to use a 15mm wrench. The top one can be unscrewed without any noticeable problems, but to remove the bottom one, you will need to apply a noticeable force (it is located in an inconvenient place).
Completely remove the starter.
Remove the nut that secures the output of the relay that performs the retracting functions, and disconnect the wiring.
Unscrew the bolts securing the relay (you need to use a wrench and remove it.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Safety block, wires, terminal blocks

The so-called black box of the motorist, in which fuses and relays are located, quite rightly comes into question in such situations. A short circuit or simply stagnation of contacts may occur in the block. Experienced motorists recommend not hitting the block too hard, this really helps.

If that doesn’t help, find the terminal blocks with the power wires and clean them thoroughly from oxides. Then carefully solder everything.

You can also test the ignition switch and clean the chips whose wires go to the starter. It is better to replace the nuts on the terminals with brass ones to make contact better.

It is important to check the armored wiring that goes directly from the battery to the starter and ground. Experts recommend paying attention to the terminal blocks that are screwed to the generator, because this is where the voltage enters the cabin.

It is highly recommended to purchase silicone aerosol for wires to improve the quality of contacts. They should treat all the areas and locations that were tested.

Why does the starter spin but the car won't start?

For a successful start, a fuel supply with operating pressure, air and a timely spark are required.

It is also extremely important to prepare the correct fuel-air mixture. These conditions need to be checked first when the engine refuses to start.

Burnt contact of the starter solenoid relay VAZ 2110

Difficulties with starting or its impossibility can arise for a variety of reasons. The culprits should be looked for in the following devices:

Fuel system malfunctions for all types of engines;
Problems in the electrical equipment of the machine.

It should also be taken into account that starting the engine in cold weather is significantly different from carrying out this operation at above-zero temperatures. We will not touch upon problems with the battery and starter; we will assume that everything is in order with them, so we will focus only on the problems of the power unit.

What to buy?

2110-3708010, -03, 04 – 9 teeth, 2 holes;

On the right is the BOSCH starter, on the left is PROMO-ISKRA

The choice depends on the type of gearbox. And nothing else.

Chemistry

There is no need to clean copper with WD-40 - after that everything will only get worse. Special equipment needed:

Ammonia;
ASIDOL (Lenbytkhim LLC) - excellent, by the way, also polishes glass;
Molykote S-1002;
Kontakt 60 or 100 (acid) and WL (wash);
CRAMOLIN ContaClean (acid).

CRAMOLIN requires a remover. It's easier to take an eraser and ammonia.

Causes of frequent problems with the starter

As practice shows, the most common problems with the starter appear in the electrical part.

When your car won't start, the first thing you need to do is check the battery. The starter is powered only from the battery. If the battery is discharged and does not produce the required voltage, then even clicks will not be heard. If your car has a tester, you can check if the battery charge is correct. Simply turning on the headlights will help replace it; an experienced driver can understand the degree of dilution of the battery based on the lighting power. You can also twist the fasteners on the battery terminals if you suspect low voltage.