The starter skips when starting, what should I do?

In this version, the bendix would not move away after starting the engine and turning off the starter and would “buzz”, but would not break during starting. In addition, more often it is the front, pressure washer that melts - then yes, it is possible that the initial impulse from the fork throws the bendix out and engages, and after picking up the engine it moves back. But melting of the rear, outlet washer is possible only in the case when the retractor's nickels are stuck, but the fork has returned the bendix to its original position. Or when the starter turns off, but the bendix does not come off, for example, stuck due to dried grease and dirt on the shaft.

It often happens, especially on domestic cars, that the starter spins at idle, does not engage the flywheel, and, of course, the car does not start. It’s especially unpleasant when everything was fine with the car just yesterday, but in the morning you have to go somewhere, and such a situation happened with the starter.

There are several reasons why the starter turns but does not engage, so if these reasons are eliminated, the starter will start the car well. But first, let's figure out how the starter works and what can happen in it that it stops grabbing.

Causes

Why is there a crackling and grinding sound when starting the engine? This question is often asked by beginners and not-so-motorists. Many people are frightened by the strange sound heard when starting the engine. Although in many cases this is not a difficult problem. But it still needs to be eliminated, and for this it’s good to know where to look for the problem. There are several places that produce crackling and grinding noises during startup:

Starter;
Flywheel;
Roller mounting bolt (timing).

Knowing the main places of breakdowns, you will quickly find out where the main problem is. For a more accurate diagnosis, open the hood and ask someone to start the engine. If there are problems with the starter and flywheel, a cracking noise will be heard from the rear of the engine when the bolt is unscrewed at the front.

The starter spins and doesn't stop.

Hello! As I wrote in the previous post, the starter does not let you forget about itself and turns, even when the key is pulled out. But if before that it came unstuck, and this did not happen often, then on May 1 it was eager to work and did not stop, only removing the negative terminal from the battery, but the third time the engine started and I went to work, when leaving home everything happened again , you can’t put it off any longer. I've read a lot on the Internet, there are three main possible reasons: 1) ignition switch (an unlikely cause) 2) starter: a) retractor - contacts burn b) the starter itself, but there are still a few points that can be highlighted in it.

First, I’m trying to understand: the lock or the starter. We take a light bulb, one contact to ground, the second to the wire from the lock, start it, the starter turns - the light is on, turn off the ignition, the starter turns, and here if the light continues to light - this is the lock, if it goes out - then the starter. In my case it is the starter. I will repair the old one later, but for now I bought a new one.

The new starter cost 3,399 rubles. Next is removing the starter.

But I have a 2003 car and the worst thing is the generator on the bottom. operating procedure: ☑remove the engine protection ☑remove the oil protection ☑remove the generator ☑remove the intake pipe spacers ☑unscrew the starter bolts - the most interesting thing is done by touch, remembering the creators.

The old starter will later be examined and repaired - it will be kept as a spare. the new starter has small but obvious differences.

Well, as they say in the textbooks - assembly in the reverse order, the same by touch and with warm words. I remember on a VAZ 2106 I changed the starter, it took me half an hour, although I did it for the first time, with Shniva it took 4 hours, and it started raining and I got wet, and didn’t get cold much - it was +11 outside, but I didn’t guess with the weather.

After assembly, check - everything works correctly, even the sound of the starter is more pleasant. Let's watch the bear.

PySy: It's a shame, I had to reset the minus and... the counter was reset - now I won't be able to capture all the sevens on the display, but I'll try to capture at least a couple in the bottom row.

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Starter

There are several reasons for this behavior. In order to understand the reasons in more detail, you need to know the starter design and operating principle. It consists of an electric motor, on the shaft of which an overrunning clutch with a drive gear is installed. In everyday life, the clutch and gear are called bendix. The design also includes a starting relay with a solenoid. This design is called a “traction relay”. It is connected to the clutch by the starter activation lever.

This design works as follows

. When turned on, the electric motor begins to rotate the bendix. At the same time, the traction relay, having activated, moves the overrunning clutch forward using a lever.

As a result, the gear meshes with the teeth of the flywheel and spins the engine. After the engine starts, the overrunning clutch is activated. This protects the starter from damage. When the power supply to the device is turned off, the relay stops working and the starter bendix returns to its original position. Passenger car starters usually use a roller-type overrunning clutch.

There is only one reason for the grinding noise at startup. For some reason the Bendix cannot fully engage the flywheel. Therefore, when starting the starter, a grinding sound of skipping teeth occurs. This problem needs to be fixed as quickly as possible. Otherwise, the flywheel and starter gears may be damaged. You need to check the following points:

First, check the starter mounting. Sometimes vibration can cause the mounting bolts to come loose. In this case, the starter becomes warped and the gear loses full contact with the flywheel. In any case, remove the starter and check the condition of the bendix;
Sometimes the problem can be caused by gear wear. In this case, the starter's performance decreases. When starting the engine, you will hear the grinding sound of the bendix moving around. Over time, the starter will not be able to turn the flywheel at all. After removing the part from the machine, you can see the gear wear with the naked eye;
Sometimes the Bendix does not move well along the shaft and simply does not reach the flywheel. In this case, remove it. You need to coat the shaft with any motor oil (5w30 or 5w40 or whatever you have on hand). Also check the operation of the traction relay.

These are the main causes of a grinding noise at startup associated with this particular part. Most often you will find the problem somewhere in the starter.

Summary table of main starter faults

Table “Causes of breakdowns and ways to eliminate them.”

Breaking	Cause of the problem	Repair options
Starter unit does not activate	Battery discharge or breakdown	Recharging the battery or replacing it. If the internal components are damaged, charging the battery is impractical. Before recharging, you need to check and add electrolyte solution to the jars, if necessary.
	Poor contact in the wire connection, power line break. We are talking about power cables and control cables for the starter mechanism.	Tighten loose contacts in the electrical power and control circuits of the mechanism. If damaged cables are found, they must be replaced
	Acidification of contacts on battery terminals	The acidified terminals of the device must be cleaned with sandpaper. After cleaning, the contacts must be treated with a lubricant, which is recommended to use technical petroleum jelly.
	The mechanism activation relay or ignition switch device is not functioning correctly	The part is completely replaced
	Problems with the solenoid relay. A winding break or short circuit is possible. The anchor device may jam or the contact disk may move	The relay is replaced after removing and disassembling the mechanism
	The appearance of a short circuit in the windings of the starter unit	The windings are rewinded with wire or the mechanism is replaced
The starter unit activates, but the motor shaft does not turn	Mechanism failure. The reason may be poor alignment of the drive device along the splines mounted on the shaft. The overrunning clutch of the drive unit may slip. The reason may be a failure of the drive mechanism lever, as well as a buffer spring element or drive clutch	Requires dismantling and complete disassembly of the entire device. Failed parts must be replaced
The traction relay is activated, but the crankshaft does not turn. It is possible to turn the armature, but it happens slowly	High battery drain	Recharging the device or replacing it, if necessary
	Acidification of contacts on the battery	Cleaning the surface of the contact components on the clamps and tightening them
	Poor tightening of the nuts that secure the electrical circuits to the solenoid relay terminals	Tightening the nuts
	Problems with the starter mechanism. This could be poor contact on the electrical circuits, acidification or contamination of the motor commutator device, wear or sticking of the brushes, or a ground fault. Sometimes the reason lies in weakened spring elements of the brush holders, jamming of the anchor device, or short circuit of the windings to the part	The starter unit is dismantled and repaired and the main components of the device are replaced
When the anchor device is rotated, the unit makes a lot of noise	Poor quality fixation of the starter unit	The screws that secure the mechanism need to be tightened
	Damage has occurred to the gear teeth of the starter unit or to the gear component of the flywheel of the power unit	The starter assembly is completely replaced or the gear teeth are replaced or repaired. The unit will need to be dismantled and disassembled. If the gear component of the flywheel ring of the power unit is damaged, it is completely replaced
	Problems with the starter device. The support copper-graphite bushing may wear out, the overrunning clutch may break, or the bearing devices may wear out. Damage to the shaft journals of the anchor device is likely. The problem may lie in errors made when installing the unit on the motor.	The mechanism is completely replaced or repaired, which requires dismantling and disassembling the device. If mistakes were made when installing the mechanism, it must be reinstalled and properly fixed. The unit may have been skewed during installation.
The engine starts, but the starter unit does not turn off	The ignition key gets stuck in the switch when it is turned to the ACC position.	If a problem occurs, you need to stop the engine and remove the key. The ignition switch needs to be removed and repaired.
	The appearance of a short circuit on the contact component of the switching device	It is necessary to stop the engine and disconnect the terminals from the battery. The switching device is dismantled and disassembled. Replacement of the contact component is required
	Problems with the starter unit. Possible jamming of the drive device on the shaft of the anchor part or sticking of the relay contact elements	The mechanism is removed and disassembled with its subsequent repair.
The relay clicks, but turns off immediately after activation	Low battery	Charge or replace the device
	The resistance in the mechanism control circuit has increased	Cleaning the battery terminal clamps with further tightening and treatment with a lubricant. Technical Vaseline is used as the latter.
	Broken ignition switch	Replacement or repair of the mechanism. This will require its dismantling and disassembly.
	Problems with the solenoid relay. The problem may be poor contact or an open circuit in the relay winding. Poor contact may be between the winding and the relay body	Complete replacement of the solenoid relay
Starter assembly activates, but gear does not engage	The buffer spring element of the mechanism is weakened	Complete replacement of the starter unit or the spring itself. To perform repairs, the unit is completely disassembled
Starter assembly activates, but gear does not engage	The appearance of potholes on the gear teeth of the drive device. Nicks can form on the teeth of the flywheel crown of the power unit as a result of prolonged wear	To remove potholes, a file is used; the unit must be completely disassembled

Photo gallery

Some reasons for the starter mechanism not working can be seen in the photo.

Worn starter commutator plate

Worn mechanism brush assembly

Damaged starter bushing

Mechanical damage to the starter device

Overrunning clutch is the real name. It is also called a clutch - ratchet or ratchet

Be that as it may, in order to understand the nature of the malfunction, damage in this mechanism, when the bendix slips (that is, the starter spins idle, slips and slips without engaging the engine), you need to understand the function and principle by which this mechanism works. In fact, everything is very simple. It serves as a kind of clutch that works only in one direction, jamming if an attempt is made to turn it in the other direction. Moreover, a clutch that should disengage precisely at the moment when the engine starts. That's when she returns to her seat. After all, the rotation speed of a car engine shaft is much higher than the maximum rotation speed of the electric motor, which is designed to act as a starter.

Fuel supply system diagnostics

Troubleshooting in it must be carried out in several stages, at each of which it is necessary to exclude the presence of damage in the following parts and components:

injector or carburetor;
fuel mixture supply lines;
fuel cleaning elements (filters);
gasoline pump.

As an option, it is also necessary to consider airing the fuel supply system. If your car has a diesel engine, then in winter the diesel fuel can simply freeze in the main hoses of the fuel system and paralyze its operation. On an injection engine, immediately after turning on the ignition, the electric fuel pump begins to pump fuel, this is indicated by a buzzing sound in the engine compartment. If no sounds occur in the engine compartment area before turning the starter, it means that the fuel pump has a problem or there is no voltage supplied to the terminals of its electric drive. Having noticed this, it is necessary to check the condition of the fuel supply pump, its relay and fuse.

You should not ignore checking the functionality of the fuel pump on vehicles with a power unit that includes a carburetor. This element of the fuel supply system operates due to the camshaft. To determine its performance, it is enough to disconnect the main hoses from the outlet of the fuel pump and the inlet pipe of the carburetor. Then you need to manually bleed the system using a special handle located on the fuel pump. If the device is functioning properly, fuel should begin to flow from the hose.

Advice! On cars with an injector, it is most convenient to control the amount of fuel by pressing a special control valve, which is located on the fuel rail (rail). The serviceability of the unit is indicated by the presence of fuel, which indicates that gasoline is supplied under pressure through a ramp to spray it inside the cylinders. At the same time, it is necessary to check the filter element, since it often becomes clogged, impairing the flow of fuel in the system. In addition, the throttle valve needs to be checked and cleaned.

What if he doesn't come back

In fact, Bendix ensures long and trouble-free operation of the entire assembly. And if it weren’t for him, then at the moment when you turn off the starter (that is, the car starts), it does not disengage with the engine, which is called “does not return,” then the rotating engine shaft will simply break the starter itself. Which, by the way, sometimes happens when the Bendix malfunctions in the opposite way - that is, the accelerating clutch does not slip, but, on the contrary, sticks and continues to rotate the shaft together with the electric motor. That is, the bendix does not disengage.

And now we are talking about a malfunction when the bendix slips, slips, and it turns out that it works, but its clutch power with the engine is not enough to turn it over and start it. The thing is that heavy loads wear out the teeth of the ratchet gear over time, and the part fails.

It has already been said that this part - the accelerating clutch, popularly called Bendix - functions on the principle of a ratchet mechanism. And the cause of the malfunction, when the gear teeth do not grab and slip when rotating along their axis without achieving engagement, is in the vast majority of cases the banal wear of these very teeth. Indeed, in fact, at the time of operation, these same teeth experience a serious load, since they have to overcome the force of rotation of the heavy crankshaft of the engine, compression of its cylinders, and the like.

Over time, due to such loads, either:

ratchet gear teeth;
or (if it is not designed with gears, but with two rings with balls, a locking mechanism that works exclusively in one direction and return springs) the rings, balls wear out, or the spring breaks.

And such a malfunction leads to the fact that when the electric motor rotates, a characteristic malfunction occurs: lack of engagement of the starter with the engine.

The starter does not turn off when starting the engine, what should I do?

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The starter is “stuck” - it turns the engine, even with the ignition key pulled out. I don’t understand what the reason is. The only thing that helped was removing the wires from the relay. At first I thought that the relay was stuck, but the other one behaved the same way.

Tell me where to dig?

What do you think is engaging? Or can it be fixed somehow?

Is the ignition switch shorted?

Tomorrow I'll see what happened to the castle

Freedom for parrots and c105!

Disconnected the ignition switch block. Connected the negative terminal to the battery. The starter turns.

I removed the terminal from the battery and disconnected the red wire from the solenoid relay. I put the terminal on the battery - the relay on the engine compartment panel clicks (the new one behaves the same way).

It’s not clear what to watch next

On the advice of T808, I tried connecting the red wire from the ignition switch directly to the starter relay - everything works.

Tell me, who knows where the second red wire leads from the ignition switch block, it seems to be the one that shorts it out.

I suspect that it leads to power supply to the instrument cluster - a couple of days before this collapse, the service center removed it.

If it shorts to ground, could my symptoms appear?

I already figured out the scheme. I have voltage constantly applied to the relay. Because of this, the starter constantly turns.

Now I want to figure out whether this can happen if the red wire from the ignition switch has a short to ground and whether this can happen if the wire from some sensor has a short to ground?

In the ChYa - everything is fine, everything rang through it, nothing shortened

That's it, the machine is working normally. Replacing the wire from the ignition switch to the BSK helped.

True, when I got out of the car I was hit by static from the door, has this happened to anyone?

When the terminal was put on, the starter spun without a key.

Is it possible to retract and even the starter itself from above?

I meant in my message the negative terminal of the battery. The worst thing is that today it started up fine. How were you able to determine that the bsk wire was at fault? As I understand it, bsk is an on-board control system, if so, then it seems to have nothing to do with the starter.

For the future, there is only one red wire, I understand correctly in Fig. 1 below? It feels like something froze in the cold and therefore jammed. This didn’t happen in the summer. But nothing can be poured into the starter and the retractor (I noticed some dampness at the bottom where the tubes with the coolant are) RSI 2. The starter itself is dry and the retractor seems to be the same. Today I went to the service station and they said come back when it fails. I think maybe the retractor can be removed for prevention? Is it possible to remove it without removing the starter itself?

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If, when removing the RED wire from the retractor, the starter turns off, then its activation circuit is to blame and the lock is primarily suspect

For the future, there is only one red wire, I understand correctly in Fig. 1 below?

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Characteristics of the malfunction

The starter spins at idle, the teeth slip, which should ensure unidirectional engagement of the shafts when one rotates at a higher speed, and also ensure their separation as soon as the rotation of the electric motor is stopped (this is when, as soon as the car engine starts, the driver releases the key).

In fact, modern technologies used to manufacture both the starter and one of its main functional units, the bendix, do not imply the possibility (in the event of a malfunction) of the unit to be disassembled and repaired. We'll have to change it. Moreover, fortunately, it is not the entire assembly that has to be replaced, but the bendix, the engagement of which has worn off so much that it is already slipping, does not reach the required power level.

On the other hand, the strength loads of modern automotive parts are designed to have approximately the same service life. That is, even if it is possible, say, to replace the Bendix return or tension spring and thereby eliminate the malfunction, such a unit will still not last very long. Surely, either the balls that ensure the bendix rings roll will soon fall out, or the connection with the shaft will slip, losing the engagement mechanism.

So, with such a characteristic malfunction as a lack of engagement with the engine, when the torque slips without connecting, there can only be one verdict - change it. Moreover, the procedure is simple, and the part itself is not particularly expensive. You can cope with the replacement, at least on a domestic car, yourself, or by contacting the nearest car service center. » alt=»»>

The starter does not turn off when starting the engine, what should I do?

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The retractor stuck once tapping on the starter helped. You can replace it without removing the starter from the car and it’s not expensive.

+1 that's how it is. Remove the relay, clean the contacts and mechanics, lubricate. or change it completely.

to start the engine, the starter continues to turn for another two seconds, you have to release the key yourself

Snacks on the castle. VD-40 rules. Poke inside the lock cylinder and for two days the ignition key will be greasy, of course, but it justifies itself. My wife once drove on her own with the starter not switched off for 600-700 meters. You should have seen that starter. And not blonde!

to start the engine, the starter continues to turn for another two seconds, you have to release the key yourself

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Ignition check

Another reason why the car stalls and does not start, the starter spins at idle, may be incorrect operation of the ignition system. It is quite simple to check its functioning and determine the cause of the problem; just check any of the spark plugs for sparking. To do this, you need to remove the spark plug from the cylinder of the power unit, put a high-voltage wire on its head, and place the skirt 10-15 mm from the engine block. Next, you should ask an assistant to crank the starter. The presence of a spark indicates the serviceability of the ignition system.

If the engine is carburetor, it is worth checking the functionality of the ignition coil. It is tested by analogy with spark plugs: its central wire is disconnected, the contact end of which is located a few millimeters from the car body. When the starter is cranked, the wire should spark. If this is not observed, the coil is faulty, or it is necessary to diagnose the performance of the distributor.