Problems with the starter can occur no matter what make of car you have or how old it is. What can we say about the legend of the Soviet automobile industry, the VAZ “Kopeyka” 2101, if the last car of this model rolled off the assembly line in 1984. Despite their honorable age, these cars still travel on the roads of the former Soviet Union, and the owners continue to repair them in their garages. In this article we will talk about what the VAZ-2101 starter is, what malfunctions most often occur, and also consider methods for eliminating them.
Design features of a “penny” starter
The first “kopecks” were equipped with ST-221 launchers. Their design consisted of:
- housing, which is also a stator with field windings;
- two end caps;
- armature (rotor) with commutator and drive;
- solenoid relay.
In essence, SST-221 is a classic four-pole electric motor that consumes direct current from a battery. A special feature of this device was a collector with transversely arranged plates. In principle, all electric motors at that time had this design.
Over time, SST-221 replaced the new VAZ-2101 starter, modification 35.3708. By the way, it is still being produced today. Almost all VAZ “classics” were equipped with it. Structurally, it differs from its predecessor only in the presence of an additional winding of the solenoid relay, a longitudinal collector and an improved stator. All other elements remained the same, which made it possible and allows us to easily change the outdated model of the launcher to a new one without any modifications.
Original parts and their analogues: which is better
In some cases, it is simply impractical to repair the starter on a VAZ 2101. It's easier to just buy a new one. It is important to remember: all parts are divided into two main groups - original and analogues. As a rule, original parts are of an order of magnitude higher quality and have a longer service life. But in the case of the VAZ 2108, there are many high-quality analogues.
In terms of their service life and many other parameters, they are not inferior to the original components. But it is diversity that often causes problems. Starters made from analogues may have a larger housing. Which causes some difficulties during installation on the seat or makes it completely impossible.
Parameters of the original starter:
Name | vendor code | Main characteristics | Cost, rubles |
AvtoVAZ | 2107.3708000-01 | Power – 1.2 kWt Operating voltage – 12 V | From 4,900 rubles |
It is important to carefully read the packaging of analogue parts. Often, products from well-known manufacturers are counterfeited - and their price is usually no lower than the real thing. The following details have worked well:
Name | vendor code | Main characteristics | Cost, rubles |
StarVolt | 2101-3708000 | Power – 1.2 kWt Operating voltage – 12 V | From 3,400 rubles |
Tadem | 5722.3708000 | Power – 1.2 kWt Operating voltage – 12 V | From 3,100 rubles |
HOFER | HF690103 | Power – 1.2 kWt Operating voltage – 12 V | From 2,900 rubles |
Signs of a faulty starter
A faulty VAZ-2101 starter may show the following symptoms when trying to start the engine:
- the solenoid relay does not operate (does not click), the rotor does not rotate;
- the relay works, but the armature rotates too slowly;
- the traction relay is activated repeatedly, but the armature does not turn the flywheel;
- the relay works, the starter turns, but the flywheel does not rotate;
- operation of the starting device is accompanied by an uncharacteristic sound;
- The VAZ-2101 starter works normally, but does not turn off when the ignition key is released.
Now let's look at each of the signs in more detail.
The relay works, but the armature rotates too slowly
If, when starting the engine, the relay is activated, but the starter does not develop the required speed, this may indicate that:
- the battery is discharged;
- there is oxidation of the contacts on the battery or on the solenoid relay;
- burnt collector plates;
- brushes are worn out;
- One of the positive brushes shorts to ground.
Other reasons
In addition to the malfunctions presented, there are a number of factors that can cause such a malfunction.
- fuse break;
- starter relay failure;
- bad mass.
It is worth noting that the starter relay and the traction or retractor relay are two different devices. The starter relay is an auxiliary device that allows you to convert the current permissible for the ignition switch contacts into a high-power current necessary to start the starter.
Before you start repairing
If you discover that the VAZ-2101 starter does not turn, do not rush to go to a service station or dismantle the device. First, you should make sure that the reason is in it, and not in the battery or wiring. First of all, check the condition of the battery terminals. If they show signs of oxidation, remove the wires from them and clean them thoroughly. To check that the wiring is working properly, take a piece of multi-core cable and use it to connect the positive terminal on the starter to the corresponding battery terminal. This will directly connect the jump starter to the power source. This, of course, needs to be done with the ignition on and the gear off. If the starter works and your VAZ “kopek” starts normally, the reason must be looked for in the wiring or ignition switch. Otherwise, the starting device will need to be dismantled for further diagnostics and repairs.
How to repair a car
Finally, I found the title of this article, at first I wanted to call it servicing the engine starter or repairing the starter with my own hands, while I was thinking about the title, I already finished the article.
Starter maintenance will be of interest to many, especially before the winter season. In life, of course, things happen a little differently. We try to drive until the last moment, when the starter stops turning and we start the car using the pushrod.
Then I started searching the Yandex Internet service for “keywords” - how many people are interested in this topic and discovered the following: people are mainly interested in such questions as how to repair a starter with their own hands or repair a starter with their own hands . I also noticed a trend that owners of the following car brands are especially interested in repairing starters repairing starters for VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2110.
If you like to drive to the last minute, then here we need to talk not about repairing the starter , but about replacing the starter. Therefore, replacing the starter is also a very relevant title for the article. And indeed this is one of the simplest options for solving a problem with the starter . The only thing is that this option is the most expensive and the cost of such pleasure will cost you 50 bucks. And indeed, why throw money down the drain if the problem could be a mere trifle (you need to replace the bushing or brushes).
When should you buy a new starter and not even think about repairing the starter?
Solid mileage of the car (more than 100 thousand km) and the car is used daily. In addition, excellent insurance, because you will still have parts from the old starter in stock.
As a result, as you can see, I called the article repair of the starter for VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2110. As a result, in this article I collected material that will help you with removing and installing the starter, repairing the starter, replacing the starter and starter maintenance.
Main malfunctions of the starter of VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2110 cars.
- When starting the engine starting system , that is, turning the ignition key to the “ starter ” position, the solenoid relay does not operate. This is evidenced by the absence of a characteristic click.
- The starter stopped turning. One of the reasons may be a malfunction of the solenoid relay .
- One of the simplest reasons that the starter has stopped turning may be a faulty battery, poor battery charging, or the condition of the battery terminals.
- If the starter does not respond when you turn the ignition key, but the battery is in working condition, it is possible that the cause is hidden in a malfunction of the ignition switch or solenoid relay .
- When starting the engine, when you turn the ignition key, a click is heard, but the starter does not turn - there is a malfunction of the solenoid relay, wear and sticking of the brushes, wear of the armature or its commutator. And first of all, check the simplest thing - the serviceability of the battery, check the battery terminals for oxidation, and check that the ground is good.
- The starter turns very hard . Breakage of the armature winding or short circuit, wear of the brushes, wear of the starter bushings.
- The starter turns, but does not turn the flywheel . Most likely, there is severe wear on the Bendix, the starter drive gear. In this case, the bendix itself and the flywheel crown are changed, since if you change one bendix, the gear teeth may again deteriorate. Characteristic symptoms are characteristic sounds from under the hood, crackling sounds, etc.
- The starter continues to work after the engine starts (the retractor relay does not work, the Bendix does not disengage.
Removing the starter
To remove the starter in a “penny”, lift the hood, disconnect the terminals from the battery and remove the warm air intake hose running from the engine to the air filter. Next, you need to disconnect the heat-insulating shield. The starter itself in all VAZ “classic” cars without exception is attached to the clutch housing with three 13mm bolts. We unscrew them with the appropriate key. After this, unscrew the nut securing the positive wire to the starter terminal. The starter can now be removed by sliding it slightly forward.
Advantages of the gear mechanism
The gear starter on the VAZ-2107 has the following advantages over the old product:
- ensures faster engine starting;
- significant increase in product service life;
- increasing the power of the mechanism with reduced energy consumption;
- reduced size and weight.
The main advantage of the updated device model is its increased energy efficiency parameters. Thanks to these parameters, starting the engine is possible even with a dead battery. Starting the engine can be done not only in hot weather conditions, but even in severe frosts, when starting a car with a conventional starter is almost impossible.
The gear-type mechanism allows you to save battery charge, so this type of product is much better than older designs. The service life of such a product depends on the number of engine starts, but in any case it will last longer than the old modification of the device.
Design and operating features
To find out why the product is effective and reliable, you should consider the design of the gear starter. The main difference between a gear starter is the presence of a gear located between the armature and the bendix. The effectiveness of the device is due to the fact that the product is equipped with a reduction gearbox, through which the torque can be increased. The most proven starters are those based on a planetary gearbox design.
Features of the functioning of the gear unit on the VAZ-2107 are no different from the usual:
- A voltage of +12V is supplied to the terminals of the solenoid relay.
- An electric current begins to flow in the winding and armature of the device.
- The retractor relay moves the gear along the armature shaft and engages it with the motor flywheel, at the same time the starter itself begins to rotate.
- The flywheel rotates and the engine starts.
- As soon as the power at the terminals disappears, the relay returns the gear mechanism to its original position, and the starter is turned off at this time.
The gearbox used in the design of a modern device will increase its efficiency by 50%, making it more efficient and reliable. Thus, the load on the battery is significantly reduced.
Features of installation of a gear starter
If the old starter is constantly bothering you, then now is the time to replace it with a more modern model. To replace a VAZ 2107 you will need to use a standard set of tools. The replacement process is very simple and does not require special skills. The new unit is installed to replace the old one without any modifications.
- Initially, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
- Using a wrench set to “13”, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts securing the product, as well as the power cable bracket.
- The plug is removed from the control wire.
- Now you can dismantle the old product.
- The new product fits perfectly into the place of the old one, despite the significant discrepancy in size.
- We proceed to tighten the bolts securing the product.
- Don’t forget to reinstall the power wire and then secure it with a nut.
- Now you can connect the battery and start starting the engine.
You will be pleasantly surprised by the functionality of such a small but reliable assistant. The gear starter does not fail in winter, it can be used for frequent engine starts
The last thing that is important to mention is the cost of the mechanism. Despite its size, the gear mechanism on a VAZ 2107 costs about 2500-3500 rubles
But it’s better to pay and enjoy the new mechanism than to continue to live in agony with the old one
This mechanism is produced for the entire range of the Zhiguli family, which can significantly improve the starting parameters of the engine. After replacement, problems with difficulty starting the engine when the battery charge is low will no longer be so relevant, so you need to rush to get a new mechanism
But it’s better to pay and enjoy the new mechanism than to continue to live in agony with the old one. This mechanism is produced for the entire range of the Zhiguli family, which can significantly improve the starting parameters of the engine. After replacement, problems with difficulty starting the engine when the battery charge is low will no longer be so relevant, so you need to rush to get a new mechanism.
Traction relay repair
First of all, unscrew the nut on the solenoid relay, which is located closer to the motor housing. Remove the winding output from the stud. After this, unscrew the three nuts securing the relay and disconnect it from the stator.
After unscrewing the nuts on both studs, you need to carefully unsolder the two contacts of the windings located on the back cover. After this, it can be removed. Carefully inspect the condition of all relay elements: spring, contact plate, nickels (contact bolts). The latter, by the way, very often burn, so it is recommended to clean them with fine sandpaper until they shine. The same must be done with the plate. If signs of a starter malfunction point to the relay, be sure to check (ring) its windings with a tester. After making sure that the device is working, you can reassemble it in the reverse order. If any of its parts malfunctions, it will need to be replaced or the entire spare part assembly will need to be replaced.
If you feel that you are unable to repair the VAZ-2101 starter relay yourself, you can simply replace it. Moreover, it costs about 500 rubles.
Verification Guide
How to change the starter
The device can be checked without removing it from the car. Removal is carried out in case of serious damage. No special knowledge is required for diagnosis. The device is checked in several stages. The most important thing is to test with thick wires; it won’t work on thin ones.
Stages
Checking the starter assembly. To do this, you need to remove the device from the car and clamp it in a vice, securely, but not too tightly, so as not to break it. Then you need to close the contact bolts located on the back side using a metal object or a piece of wire. If the starter is working, it will start spinning. In this case, the cause of the malfunction may be in the traction relay.
Checking the operation of the traction relay. To do this you need to use wires with low resistance. One wire needs to connect the positive terminal on the battery and the relay to ground, and the second wire must connect the negative terminal on the battery and the starter housing. If the relay is working properly, a characteristic click will sound and the armature will push out the gear (video author - altevaa TV)
The tester should measure the resistance between the rotor housing and the windings; it should be several million Ohms. If the insulation resistance is from 0 to 2 ohms, the armature is faulty and requires replacement. Checking the inter-turn short circuit is done using a special stand for testing generators.
Checking the device on the stand
Checking the brushes is done using a 12 V light bulb, which is connected to the brush holder and the body of the device. A glowing light indicates a brush malfunction. In this case, they need to be replaced. The winding is also checked with a light bulb, only the winding and the housing are connected.
Call the electrical network. Using a tester, you can ring an electrical circuit to find breaks. To ring the electrical network, you must turn on the ignition.
Checking the Bendix. To check, you will need a soft gasket to protect the part from damage. The Bendix sprocket must be clamped in a vice and the clutch turned in one direction and the other. If the part is working properly, the coupling will only turn in one direction. If it turns in the other direction, this indicates that it is faulty and needs to be replaced. The teeth may be worn out, then the bendix just needs to be replaced.
Gouges in Bendix teeth
A visual inspection can reveal the following faults:
- winding breaks;
- insulation violation;
- wear of the collector plates;
- surface defects of the commutator and armature in the form of burrs, scratches, grooves, etc.
Small defects can be eliminated by sanding with fine-grained sandpaper. If as a result of these actions the anchor has decreased in diameter, spacers are installed. The same applies to the collector. If the parts are very worn, it is better to replace them. Replacement is required if the interturn insulation is faulty, brushes and bearings are worn out.
By learning to check the device that starts the engine with your own hands, you can save on visiting a service station.
If you don’t know how to check the starter without removing it from the car, diagnostics can be done at service stations that are equipped with a special stand for diagnosing generators.
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