Niva Chevrolet fuel pump does not work, what could it be?

#007 “The Hunger Games” or the fuel pump does not work.

Days from purchase to incident:
36 On an ordinary warm May evening, I left work, got into the car, and turned the key to the “ignition on” position. The fuel pump hummed, throwing a portion of gasoline into the engine. The engine started, accompanied by its daily convulsions, and I was already prepared for the long trip home. Having left the parking lot, I went along the broken road to look for asphalt. He was already visible at the intersection and it seemed that the wheels were about to grab him, but then the car suddenly stalled.

When trying to start again, the starter vigorously thrashed, but the engine did not catch. “Here you go!”, I thought. He got out of the car, opened the hood and, of course, looked around the engine compartment with a sensible look. The cover, covering almost the entire space, was pulled off and placed in the trunk. I didn’t notice any leaks other than the usual ones (the engine filler cap is snotty). But checking the fuel rail showed that the engine, simply, has nothing to feed on because... the ramp is empty.

Apparently, the gas pump refused to continue to resist the hardships of life under my leadership and went into desertion.

However, the first thing to do was to check the fuses, and since the car enthusiast’s Kama Sutra, as luck would have it, stayed at home, I had to call comrade Shnivovod to find out where they live and what the fuel pump fuses look like. (Sasha, thank you!)

It turned out that they live separately from the main ones, which I had already reviewed all of at this point. And since this was my first inspection of the fuses since the purchase, there were some surprises - a couple of fuses were in a terrible external condition, but strangely enough, they continued to function.

My further path lay outside the glove compartment, which was immediately dismantled and immediately showed me the desired unit with relays and fuses, as well as Bosch’s brains.

The big fuses are responsible for the fans that cool the engine when the temperature rises, and the small one on the edge belonged to the fuel pump. Everyone was safe and healthy. Just in case, all fuses and relays were checked with a multimeter - everything is alive. When the ignition was turned on, the relays clicked, and gasoline power never entered the engine. So it's the fuel pump itself.

I recline the back seat and see my fuel pump.

The cable receives power from the battery, which I verified with the same multimeter, which means all that was left was to remove the fuel pump. The cable disconnected without problems, but the fuel hoses turned out to be trickier. According to Feng Shui, you must first press the retaining bracket to the very end and gently tighten it. Awareness of this fact cost the plastic mount one of the petals. I didn’t have the head with the knob with me and the bolts holding the fuel pump housing were slowly and sadly unscrewed with a wrench.

Next, the fuel pump was removed and dragged in a bag to the workshop for inspection.

A quick inspection revealed a hose that had come off.

A black-as-night filter in an underground cave caught my attention. The quality of our gasoline has never been in doubt in my mind, and it’s very good that all this dirt settled on the filter without going further along the highway to the dryer.

While I was rinsing the filter with isopropyl alcohol and blowing it with compressed air, my colleague connected the motor to power and found out that it was more alive than anyone else, which added a significant amount of joy. (thank you, Tolyan!)

The pump, by the way, is also Boshev's. Then the filter cleaning was finished.

Just putting the tube back on and forgetting it would be unforgivable for a true samurai and, with the help of a hair dryer, it was seated.

But even this seemed to me not enough to clear the karma and I grabbed a connection for two more straps.

Now all that was left to do was return the entire structure to where it had been taken from. No sooner said than done, and the key is already sticking out hopefully in the ignition. I turn it to the “ignition on” position, but the usual buzzing sound is not heard. Sadness. I try to start the engine and after fumbling with the starter, the car comes to life. The engine thrashes and does not stall, and this is no small thing. We try the voltage with a multimeter in the “ignition on” position - there is no voltage. I turn the starter and everything is there. And the buzzing sound is in no hurry to return at the first turn of the key to take me back to the “as before” state.

I decide to go home so that in a calm environment in the garage I can poke around to my heart’s content and look for where to click to make it fun.

I throw all my things, tools, covers and generally everything that is left into the trunk. I put the key in the ignition again, turn it and hear that same coveted hum. Everything is back to normal. Except for the disassembled and gutted glove compartment. But, after driving for a day in test mode, I decided to assemble it. Not all the bolts were in place and I simply replaced them with metal screws, which fit perfectly in place of the standard ones.

It is noteworthy that I did all the work with a small screwdriver and a wrench and that was enough.

Source

What to do if the Chevrolet Niva does not start and the starter does not turn: repair

If there is no characteristic click when you turn the ignition key, then in this case there may be a malfunction in the wiring of the starter relay, which is why there is no voltage.

Check for the presence of voltage with a tester, and if this is the reason, then you should either clean and tighten the contacts on the relay terminals well, or replace the faulty ignition switch.

It often happens that there is a voltage of 12 volts on the retractor relay, under the hood it does not click, and the starter does not turn only when hot, that is, when the engine has already been warmed up, the starter does not turn the retractor, it clicks, and the engine does not turn on again. In this case, most likely the problem is with the starter solenoid relay and will need to be replaced.

The fuel pump is silent and does not pump

A fairly common option: “It’s getting cold outside. I got into the car, started it, and the car immediately stalled!” My first thought was “the fuel pump is broken.” The starter spins briskly, but doesn't grab a beat.

0) When the car is working properly, when you turn the ignition key, you hear a click from the fuel pump relay (under the glove compartment, at the passenger’s feet), after which the fuel pump hums for 4-6 seconds (increases pressure), after which the relay clicks again. Also, the relay and pump operation can be heard while the starter is running. (But due to the operation of the starter itself, it is very quiet).

In my case, the relay was audible, but the pump was silent.

But you should keep in mind that clicks and the pump will only be heard the first 2 turns of the key. After this, Boshev’s “brains” block the work of pressure, it is believed that there is pressure in the system.

You can reset the negative terminal from the battery for a few minutes (reset the “brains”). After this, the pump will turn on again.

Make sure there is gasoline in the gas tank. (although the relay will click without it, the pump will be audible even without it).

What to check, where to crawl. 1) We get under the hood. Fuel rail (where the molds are) At the end of the ramp (from the windshield side) there is a cap. Under the cap there is a spool (valve) that, when pressed, gasoline should flow from the ramp in a good stream. After several attempts to start the key, there should be a trickle. You can check with two people (one turns the ignition key, the second checks the pressure in the rail). If there is pressure, everything is fine with the fuel pump. That's not the reason.

If there is no pressure, then the problem is probably with the fuel pump.

2) Check the fuel pump fuse. It is located under the glove compartment. At the feet of the front passenger. We move the seat to the rearmost position and crawl there:

The fuse is 15 A. Sometimes the fuse is intact, but its seat is bad (it does not press well). It is recommended to carefully rotate the “legs” of the fuse.

This way the contact will be more reliable. Checking the operation of the fuel pump (by sound or pressure in the rail)

3) Check the fuel pump relay. Indirectly, a faulty fuse may be indicated by the absence of a characteristic “click”. If it “clicks”, then everything is fine with it. It is located in the same place as the fuse.

The two middle relays can be swapped. They are interchangeable. Relay 752.3777-121 For 12 V and 30 A. If there are no clicks, then there is a problem with the wiring (a break somewhere). If there are clicks, then check the operation of the fuel pump. If we don’t work, we move on.

4) there is a hatch under the rear right seat. Let's open it.

Two gas hoses and one electrical connector. We remove the connector, and the 2nd and 3rd contacts of the chip should be 12 V when the key is turned (and the starter is running). Check with a multimeter. If there is no voltage, then the circuit is open. (including you need to check the total “mass” in the trunk, at least make sure that the side lights and turn signals in the rear lights are on) If there is voltage on the “chip”, then there is something wrong with the pump itself.

5) Remove the fuel pump. It is advisable to have less than 1/3 of a tank of gasoline. I recommend tying the hoses and electrical wire so that after disconnecting from the fuel pump they do not fall into the niche. Unscrew 12 M10 nuts. We get the fuel pump.

6) Diagnostics of the fuel pump. Dry the fuel pump. Provide 12 V in home laboratory conditions. Check all terminals. Sometimes it burns noticeably:

Also check the mesh filter. If the problem is with the fuel pump, then I recommend installing a new one.

Mine lasted 8 years. If old, tired pumps are still working, they cannot create the necessary pressure (the error on the BC is “lean mixture”).

All models of fuel pumps are interchangeable. Previously they had a short glass. Now with deep. Get the latest version of the pump. Just so that the connector for connecting the electrical harness fits (but for now they are all the same). Old fuel pump 21236-1139009

Source

Checking the fuel pump relay Niva Chevrolet

Sometimes the fuse dangles in its socket, although it is intact and in good working order, but in this case it will not work. Check if it is tight, if necessary, press the “legs” of the fuse, just be careful, it will be more reliable and effective. So, let's move on to the relay race. If you hear the relay click when you start the engine, it is more likely to be working correctly. Otherwise, the mechanism must be checked and changed.

suitable relay for 12 V and 30 A - article number 752.3777-121. But before changing the coil, check the wiring. Perhaps where the break occurred or where the contact oxidized? There is a small hatch under the rear seat on the right side, open it, remove the connector, check the voltage with multimeters - it should be 12 V. If the readings differ significantly, look for the place where the circuit break occurred. This way we find the problem area evenly and evenly and thereby eliminate the problem. Good luck.

Design and principle of operation

The Chevy Niva fuel system uses a submersible fuel pump, which is based on a commutator motor with two permanent magnets on the stator.

Power is supplied to the pump through a relay, the control contact of which is connected to the engine control unit. The circuit is protected by a fuse, which prevents the electrical wiring from catching fire in the event of a short circuit.

The relay is located inside the car under the glove compartment. The fuse box is located nearby.

Often, a fuel pump is not called the electric motor itself, but a module that includes:

The electric pump is installed below the gasoline level. This ensures lubrication and cooling of its parts. If you run out of fuel completely and force the electric pump to run dry, it will quickly break down.

The rotation of the pump impeller ensures pressure in the fuel line within 3.6-4 Bar. If this indicator is exceeded, the pressure regulator bypass valve is activated.

Gasoline enters the impeller through a mesh filter, which protects the assembly from large foreign particles. Fine contaminants do not harm the fuel pump.

Main block with fuses and relays

This block is located to the left of the steering column and is closed from below with a lid. To get to it, you need to tighten 2 screws, then press the top edge of the cover and gradually free it from all fasteners.

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The block that appears will be held on a special bracket. The fuse diagram itself and the number of elements on it may vary depending on the configuration and year of manufacture.

For cars manufactured before 2009

Scheme - option 1

Scheme - option 2

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Explanation of fuses

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F1 (5 A) - license plate lamps, instrument panel lamps, indicator light on the dashboard, engine compartment lamp, additional brake light lamp, left side lamps.

Main malfunctions and their possible causes

Problems in the operation of the fuel pump manifest themselves in the operation of the engine, which begins to behave incorrectly:

Similar symptoms also appear in case of malfunctions of ignition, injection and other key systems. However, it’s worth starting by checking the operation of the pump.

Problems arise for the following reasons:

Important: if the coarse filter is dirty, not enough gasoline is supplied to the electric motor and it overheats. If the problem is not corrected in time, the fuel pump will fail.

Trouble-shooting

The engine will not start if the fuel pump does not supply gasoline to the fuel line.

In this case, the check begins with the fuse. If it is working, you need to make sure there is voltage at the fuel pump terminals. For diagnostics you will need a multimeter. Raise the rear seat and remove the cover covering the pump. If, when the ignition is turned on, 12 volts comes to the terminal and the pump motor does not work, the unit needs to be replaced.

Often the pump stops working due to terminal oxidation. Therefore, inspect the connector and, if necessary, clean it of corrosion.

If there is no power supply, it is necessary to check the operation of the relay and the integrity of the wires.

Interruptions in operation or insufficient engine power are a consequence of loss of pump performance and a drop in pressure in the line. This happens for three reasons:

First, check the status of your contacts. Then dismantle the fuel pump and remove the strainer. At the first sign of contamination, the mesh should be replaced with a new one.

Checking the operation of the pressure regulator requires a pressure gauge. It connects to the fuel line outlet. The operating pressure when the ignition is on should not be lower than 3.6 Bar.

How to determine if a relay is working properly

To determine the serviceability of the fuel pump relay, you can use several methods:

The first method requires the presence of a working part. We find the relay according to the above instructions and put a working one in its place. After completing the steps, we check the functionality. That is, we try to start the car, if the fuel supply is successful, then we can proudly note that the breakdown has been fixed.
However, not every driver has a spare relay with him. If it is not available, you can make a jumper from wire. Due to the fact that the current will be insignificant, the cross-section of the wire does not necessarily have to be large. You need to short-circuit contacts numbered 30 and 87 (you can determine where they are located from the diagram on the relay). After the procedure, you need to turn on the ignition: if after turning on the pump stops, then the problem is not in the relay, but if it works, then you will have to change the device.

It is worth knowing that jumpers should only be used to check whether the relay is working or not working. It is strictly forbidden to drive with them on a regular basis, as you can damage other parts or even start a fire in the car.

Video instructions for replacement:

In my case, the relay was audible, but the pump was silent.

You can reset the negative terminal from the battery for a few minutes (reset the “brains”). After this, the pump will turn on again.

Make sure there is gasoline in the gas tank. (although the relay will click without it, the pump will be audible even without it).

If there is no pressure, then the problem is probably with the fuel pump.

2) Check the fuel pump fuse. It is located under the glove compartment. At the feet of the front passenger. We move the seat to the rearmost position and crawl there:

4) there is a hatch under the rear right seat. Let's open it.

6) Diagnostics of the fuel pump. Dry the fuel pump. Provide 12 V in home laboratory conditions. Check all terminals. Sometimes it burns noticeably:

Mine lasted 8 years. If old, tired pumps are still working, they cannot create the necessary pressure (the error on the BC is “lean mixture”).

The fuel pump on a Chevrolet Niva has its own service life, just like other parts in the car. If you constantly refuel your car with high-quality fuel, you can extend the time it takes to replace the fuel pump. It is usually recommended to change it after 20,000 kilometers.

Relay for controlling the fuel supply system to the Chevrolet Niva engine

There are often breakdowns in cars related to electronics. And sometimes it is very difficult to detect the cause of a malfunction. A common cause of breakdowns on the Chevrolet Niva are breakdowns associated with the fuel pump.

The main problems of failure of the engine fuel supply system are: breakdown of the fuel pump itself, clogged filter, breakage of supply wires, damage to tubes, failure of fuses or breakdown of the fuel pump control relay. The last reason, although not common, always remains a mystery to most drivers. This part performs electronic functions, and electronics in a car are a dark forest for the average driver.

“It’s much easier to rebuild an engine than to delve into the brains of a car,” many drivers would say. In order to clarify the picture of the need for a relay in a Chevrolet Niva, let’s take a closer look at what it consists of and what functions it performs.

What is a relay

A relay is called an electromagnetic switch, which is designed for switching during abrupt changes in the input value (current, voltage) in electrical circuits. In simple terms, it is a device that turns on when a voltage signal is applied to it, and turns off when the voltage disappears. The current that switches the device is very low, and to start the fuel pump a large current is required. Therefore, it is also called a kind of amplifier.

What does it consist of?

There are different numbers of relays, but almost all of them perform similar functions. This device consists of a contact group, which we can see by removing it from the block. Inside it there is a coil with a certain number of turns of copper wire, a return spring and an armature. All this is assembled in a certain sequence and located on the board. A photo of the contact group and the shape of the relay can be seen below, or you can enter it in a search engine and see all the types and types. We are interested in the Chevrolet Niva fuel pump relay, which looks like this.

The principle of operation of the relay. The fuel pump relay is used only in engines with injection type. Carburetor engines use a mechanical fuel pump. The Niva (injection) car uses a 12V electric fuel pump.

The electrical circuit of its operation includes power wires, a fuse, a relay, as well as fuel reading sensors in the tank. Thus, when you turn the car key, power is automatically supplied to the relay. It, in turn, operates instantly and closes the contacts that power the pump.

This is how the fuel pump turns on briefly, as a result of which, when we sit behind the wheel and turn the key, we hear its buzzing, indicating its operation.

Location in Niva

On the right side under the glove compartment there is a cover, and under it there is part of the electronics of the Niva car, the second part is under the dashboard on the driver’s side. Under this cover you can see the location of four relays. The device that is responsible for turning on the fuel pump and its operation is located under the third number. Next to it is a 15A fuse, which is designed to protect the circuit and electrical components of the fuel pump.

location of the relay box in the car

Functionality check

To determine whether a given device is working properly, you can use two methods:

Remove the fuel pump relay, the location of which is indicated above, and put in its place, exactly the same. After installation, check the functionality of the fuse. Having temporarily replaced the relays, you can try to start the engine; if, when you turn the key, fuel pumping begins, then the cause of the breakdown has been eliminated.
The first method involves having a spare relay. If it is missing, there is no need to rush to the car market and spend money if you are not completely sure that it is faulty. You can make a jumper from a piece of wire. You can use a thin wire, since the current in the control circuit of the device is small. Use this jumper to short-circuit two contacts on the block numbered 30 and 87. Their location can be determined from the picture on the relay. While closing these contacts, you must turn on the ignition or do this at the end. If the pump works in this case, the switching device itself must now be replaced. It is prohibited to use the jumper on a permanent basis; it is used solely for fault detection.

Situations arise that when you turn the key, the pump does not operate even if there is a jumper or a new replacement device. And the fuse is in good condition. This most likely indicates that the pump has failed. It is necessary to measure the voltage at its contacts using a voltmeter; if the voltmeter shows the presence of 12V, then you can safely buy a new pump. If there is no power, this indicates damage to the power circuit.

Check to see if the injector system power wire has come loose. It fits into the positive terminal of the battery, separate from the main power cable. Without it, there will be no power to the pump.

Can the relay be repaired? If the cause of the fuel pump’s inoperability is determined to be a malfunction of the device, then it can be corrected by replacing it with a working one. Electrical professionals can repair a non-working device, but it is best to purchase a new one.

The cost of a relay on a Niva Chevrolet ranges from 200 to 350 rubles. Repair by a specialist will cost about the same; it’s up to you to decide whether it’s worth repairing.

Knowing the location of this electronic device, the basic principle of operation and methods of testing for functionality in a Chevrolet Niva, you can safely try to fix the problem of a malfunctioning fuel pump yourself.

Source: https://chnivaremont.ru/elektrooborudovanie/rele-benzonasosa-niva-chevrole.html

The principle of operation of the fuel pump

The operation of the pump is controlled by a controller. At the same time, its control scheme is quite interesting. There is no pressure sensor in the car system, and therefore it is maintained by a pressure regulator. It is located near the pump in the tank.

New and old fuel pressure regulator

The regulator has a valve that can open only at a certain moment, namely when there is sufficient pressure in the system (4 Bar).

In this case, fuel will not flow into the return line either. When the ignition is turned on, the pump begins to pump fuel into the system, after which the regulator valve opens and remains in this position throughout the engine operation.

The fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on

First of all, you need to check the fuel pump terminals and the power to them. In the photo, the terminals were worn out, which caused the contact to close and the fuel pump to melt.

What to do if such a situation arises. The verification algorithm is described below. Briefly check the presence of voltage at the fuel pump terminals. Based on this, further conclusions are drawn.

Checking the fuel pump circuit

Checking the power circuit.

If you know that the pump is working (to do this you need to gain access to it, remove it and connect it to an alternative power source), then the reason should be looked for in the car's wiring. To do this, the control light should be connected to the gray wire that goes to the pump.

This is exactly what is a plus. If the light does not light up, then power is not supplied to the unit.

Checking relays and fuses

Here you should initially check the fuses and relays. The fuse box is located behind the left of the driver under the dashboard, and therefore is not easy to access. You will have to unscrew two bolts and remove the decorative protective cover.

If these components are faulty, they should be replaced. The relay is checked in the same way as the pump, by connecting a test light to the input and output . The fuse can be checked visually.

The fuel pump relay is marked with a green arrow.

If the car still does not start, you should check the connector block. It is located behind the driver's side fuse box in the passenger compartment. Here you can also use a test light or tester, with which you can check the voltage at the inputs/outputs.

Tips for motorists

The operation of any internal combustion engine is impossible without supplying fuel to the combustion chamber. This process is equally important for both carburetor and injection engines. The fuel mixture is supplied by a fuel pump, which is electrically driven for multipoint injection systems. Therefore, failure of its operation on this car is almost always associated with the electrical circuit of the car.

What to do in this case

This is a very unpleasant time, especially when it happens on a busy city highway or during rush hour. If there is nowhere to wait for help, you should move the car off the road and try to “revive” the gas pump yourself. To do this, it is recommended to have a car tester or at least a test lamp. The first sign of such a malfunction is that the engine does not start, and when the ignition is turned on, the sound of the fuel pump electric motor is not heard.

Auto electricians recommend disconnecting the battery terminal for a few minutes and trying to restart the engine. If the problem persists, continue troubleshooting. Now you need to get to the pump to check the presence of supply voltage at its terminals. One terminal of the warning lamp or tester should be connected to vehicle ground, and the other to the gray wire of the electrical connector on the fuel pump. There are two possible control options: the presence of voltage or its absence. The first case indirectly confirms the breakdown of the electric motor, the second suggests continuing the search.

Where is the fault located?

Failure of an electric motor is a fairly rare occurrence, so we will focus on the case when there is no supply voltage at the pump terminals. When checking for power supply, note that the control unit initially emits a pulse to start the pump that lasts only 5 seconds. If the engine does not start, there will be no more impulse. Therefore, before checking the supply voltage, it is necessary to relieve the fuel pressure in the rail.

Power is supplied through the relay contacts. This is not very easy to check, since you need to remove the plastic cover under the glove box on the front panel. There is a relay block and a deep fuel pump fuse. To check the relay, it must be replaced with another one. Most often, burnt-out contacts of this relay are to blame. In some cases, problems are created by an additional relay that is part of the alarm system. When the vehicle is armed, it blocks the fuel pump power circuit, preventing the engine from starting.

The fuel pump is an important element of the fuel system, performing two functions:

Supplies gasoline to the injectors.
Creates high fuel pressure in the fuel line.

The Chevrolet Niva is equipped with an electric pump, which is controlled by the vehicle's electronic system.

Design and principle of operation

The Chevy Niva fuel system uses a submersible fuel pump, which is based on a commutator motor with two permanent magnets on the stator.

The fuel pump relay is located inside the car under the glove compartment. The fuse box is located nearby.

Often, a fuel pump is not called the electric motor itself, but a module that includes:

The rotation of the pump impeller ensures pressure in the fuel line within 3.6-4 Bar. If this indicator is exceeded, the pressure regulator bypass valve is activated.

Gasoline enters the impeller through a mesh filter, which protects the assembly from large foreign particles. Fine contaminants do not harm the fuel pump.

Additional relay and fuse box

It is located behind the glove compartment at the feet of the front passenger. To access, unfortunately, you will have to remove the glove box. The fuses for the electric fans of the cooling system and the engine control relay (injection system) are located here.

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Scheme

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Purpose

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Additional relay (turns on the right electric fan through an additional resistor at low rotation speed);
Fuse (50A) protecting the power circuits of the additional relay and the right electric fan relay;
Fuse for the fuel pump (fuel pump) (15A), protecting the power circuits of the electric fuel pump relay;
Fuse (15A) protecting the constant power supply circuit of the controller;
Right electric fan relay;
Left electric fan relay;
Electric fuel pump relay;
Main relay;
Fuse (50A) protecting the left electric fan circuits;
Fuse (15A) protecting power circuits switched on by the main relay;
Controller

Main malfunctions and their possible causes

Problems in the operation of the fuel pump manifest themselves in the operation of the engine, which begins to behave incorrectly:

Similar symptoms also appear in case of malfunctions of ignition, injection and other key systems. However, it’s worth starting by checking the operation of the pump.

Problems arise for the following reasons:

Important: if the coarse filter is dirty, not enough gasoline is supplied to the electric motor and it overheats. If the problem is not corrected in time, the fuel pump will fail.

Trouble-shooting

The engine will not start if the fuel pump does not supply gasoline to the fuel line.

Often the pump stops working due to terminal oxidation. Therefore, inspect the connector and, if necessary, clean it of corrosion.

If there is no power supply, it is necessary to check the operation of the relay and the integrity of the wires.

Interruptions in operation or insufficient engine power are a consequence of loss of pump performance and a drop in pressure in the line. This happens for three reasons:

First, check the status of your contacts. Then dismantle the fuel pump and remove the strainer. At the first sign of contamination, the mesh should be replaced with a new one.

Checking the operation of the pressure regulator requires a pressure gauge. It connects to the fuel line outlet. The operating pressure when the ignition is on should not be lower than 3.6 Bar.

Starter malfunction

Sometimes, when the relay clicks, but the starter does not turn, the car does not start because the starter itself has failed. It is quite possible that the wire that connects the starter winding and its relay has burned out or broken, or that the starter winding has broken.

It is quite possible that a short circuit has occurred in the armature or stator windings, as well as in the brush holder. For example, you can determine a short circuit by looking at the headlights; when you try to start the engine, they dim greatly, and sometimes even go out completely even when the battery is fully charged.

If the car has been used for a long time, the starter brushes may have worn out too much or the starter bushings may have worn out. As a rule, it is impossible to diagnose such problems in the shortest possible time, but if you have enough time, you can find out the cause of the starter failure.

Be sure to watch another video on how the starter works:

If problems arise with starting the engine, you should also not “drive” the starter for too long. The fact is that the starter is essentially a small electric motor, which, however, ensures the rotation of the crankshaft. To do this, it requires a very high current strength, so it is not recommended to operate the starter for a long time within one starting attempt - you run a high risk of damaging it (the contacts may simply burn out). It is recommended to make three short attempts to start the engine, and if they are unsuccessful, proceed to troubleshooting.