What should you do if the “check” does not light up when you turn on the ignition, and what are the main reasons for such a malfunction? This knowledge and skills on how to fix breakdowns can be useful to any driver, especially if the car is well used. But for some new cars, such as those that have recently rolled off the assembly line, this problem may be relevant.
According to the instructions, the “check engine” light should light up when the key is positioned 180 degrees in the ignition switch, and then, after starting the engine, go out. But it happens that in various situations it stops burning even before the engine starts. Then you need to look for the cause and fix the problem. Where to look and what to do?
The “check” does not light up when the ignition is turned on for various reasons. Let's look at some of them, the most common. So, do not rush to immediately get scared and go headlong to the service specialists. You can diagnose the breakdown yourself if you have certain knowledge and skills, using the tips given in our article.
What does it mean?
Now many owners of iron horses already know what a small yellow or orange light bulb of a characteristic shape on the dashboard means. If translated literally, check engine sounds like “check the engine.” Therefore, it should warn the driver about malfunctions of the motor unit. That is, the computer on board detected some kind of malfunction in the operation of this compartment.
Normally, when you start your car, this light goes out immediately when you start the engine. And when the key is inserted into the ignition, but the engine is not started, it should light up. But sometimes just the opposite happens. And if this factor bothers you when operating the machine, then this is one of the signals that something needs to be done.
Why did the light come on and how to fix it
The main situations in which the indicator lights up and the recommended courses of action for the car owner:
- If the Check engine lights up and goes out immediately when starting the car, there is no damage to the engine. The cause of the fire is most likely harmless - the fuel tank cap is lost or not screwed in properly. Just wrap it tightly and check if the warning disappears.
- If the indicator lights up while driving, you should stop and check the wires. You may find a cable hanging loose under the hood or an open battery terminal. This applies to all attachments - wires, hoses, etc.
- If the light flashes while driving, you should stop and check the sounds made by the engine, pay attention to the oil level, and inspect the sides of the engine. If no visually obvious violations are detected, it is recommended to drive to the nearest car service center and carry out diagnostics.
- If the engine is running normally and the Check light is constantly flashing, there is most likely an ignition failure. You should check the spark plugs and coil, pay attention to the quality of the fuel. To do this, it is better to contact the nearest auto diagnostic center.
- If the indicator is constantly on, you need to stop, unscrew the spark plugs and check the gap. Gaps that exceed 1.3 may cause the light bulb to burn out.
- In addition, when the “check” is on, the ignition is usually checked. Any car service center has special testers that allow you to determine the wear of wiring insulation.
- A faulty fuel pump can also cause the light to come on. You should stop and listen to the sounds the fuel pump makes. A smooth hum without clicks or pauses is considered normal. If extraneous sounds appear, the pump should be dismantled, washed inside and the filter cleaned.
- Serious engine malfunctions can be indicated by the coolant temperature. If it is above 85–90 degrees, and the Check engine lights up while driving, the engine is definitely faulty. In this case, it is advisable to call a tow truck or drive at low speed to the nearest car service center.
Check the electrical
If the Check Engine light does not come on when you turn on the ignition (especially if the car has been sitting idle for a long time in a garage or on the street), then the problem may be quite trivial. And first of all, you should check the battery itself (it also happens that the lights on the dashboard are barely lit rather dimly, and the car itself does not respond to the key).
It is possible that the power supply is discharged, or the contacts have oxidized or a terminal has come loose (or, alternatively, the wires have broken). In general, first of all, we check the battery itself to make sure that power is being supplied and the current is flowing at the required strength.
Also, on the positive terminal of the battery there is a wire that is responsible for powering the ECM. Sometimes it happens that it is broken - you need to check it first.
If everything is in order, we proceed further.
We check the electrical systems of your car
. For example, relays and connectors near the electronic control unit, the wires themselves going to the ECU. Perhaps the on-board computer is malfunctioning (but without certain knowledge in this area, you most likely will not be able to determine this). By the way, it wouldn’t hurt to check the fuses that control the light bulbs and ignition. We take the diagram out of the glove compartment and find out which ones. If they are burnt, you need to change them urgently.
If, apart from the check, there are no other signs of life, then perhaps it’s time for the ignition switch itself. We check the lock, clean the wiring, the power should be supplied. We try to start again, and again there is no reaction, then the lock will most likely have to be changed.
If everything starts up fine, but the light does not light up when the key is turned 180, then perhaps the problem is in the light bulb itself. After all, it (although this happens quite rarely) can burn out - especially from high humidity and condensation in the car interior, formed for any reason. It is also quite easy to check with certain skills (you will need to disassemble the torpedo). Or perhaps the supply wire has become unsoldered or frayed and there is no contact.
If you have thoroughly checked everything and even at the same time eliminated some shortcomings in the systems of your car, and the “check” still does not light up when you turn on the ignition, then you will have to come to terms with the fact itself and take your car to a familiar electrician at the nearest service station. With the help of certain devices, he will accurately determine the cause of this malfunction. But you shouldn’t delay this, even if the check engine that doesn’t light up doesn’t interfere with your driving and the car doesn’t show any visible faults.
The reason for such an event may turn out to be more complex and serious, but why do you need unplanned repairs to the engine or other compartments?
- What to do if the “check” does not light up when you turn on the ignition
- 1. What is it responsible for and what does the “check” on the dashboard of a car mean?
- 2. Why the “check” does not light up when the ignition is turned on: we are looking for the cause of the malfunction.
- 3. How to troubleshoot problems with the check engine control unit?
Reviving a “dead man” – is he dead?
The first sign of trouble that I noticed was the fuel pump not working. It was him who I rushed to revive first, which turned out to be not quite the right decision. If your car (or any other equipment) breaks down, carefully examine the problem from all sides: maybe there are some other signs of breakdown , because the car is a rather complex system of units (which, by the way, has its own built-in diagnostics). If I had directly connected the wire from the battery to the fuel pump connector (that is, supplied it with 12 volts, eliminating all intermediaries in the electrical circuit), I would definitely have been convinced that the pump is alive. But... the engine still wouldn’t start! Then, I would check to see if there was a spark at the spark plugs, and I would be very sad because there was none. After reading the forums, you can be horrified at how much time and money some people with the same problem spent solving it, changing one car service center for another.
Why doesn't the Check Engine light come on?
So, the check must light up as soon as the vehicle’s SZ is turned on, and go out as soon as the engine starts. This indicates normal operation of the vehicle. Otherwise, if the check light comes on while driving or does not respond at all, diagnostics are needed at a service station.
First, let’s find out what the purpose of the indicator is. It turns out that the check translated from English literally means “check engine.” In other words, if the indicator lights up while the vehicle is moving, it means that the car’s ECU is sending a clear signal to the driver that there is some kind of malfunction in the operation of the internal combustion engine.
Unfortunately, the ECU is not capable of specifying the problem. On the other hand, if you know which systems the check is responsible for, you can draw the appropriate conclusions.
It will not be so difficult to find the cause of the malfunction if the indicator does not light up after turning on the SZ. The driver got behind the wheel of the car, turned the key half a turn - the indicator should light up. If this does not happen, you need to try to test a few things yourself.
The check does not light up when the ignition is turned on VAZ 2112 16 valves
After what did this happen?
I once tore the mudguard off the engine and the DPKV block became disconnected - I put it in place and it started. but my starter didn't turn over either. and you're spinning.
Check Engine Light Doesn't Come On
I can't hear the fuel pump, that is, the relay or the pump itself
The onboard computer cannot determine the protocol
In my opinion, signs that the ECU is not working.. see power supply to the ECU
Option . Disconnect the battery terminal, wait 5 minutes. connect .. try to start the engine.
In my opinion, signs that the ECU is not working.. see power supply to the ECU
Without a doubt, check the power to the ECU, relays and fuses located near the block on the passenger side, under the cover near the left leg.
+1. Also check the alarm power supply. My installer powered the alarm from the central locking system, and as a blocker, he broke the power supply circuit to the ECU. When my central locking fuse started to fail (it’s not a blade type, but an old one), the lock drives stopped working, the car wasn’t armed, and the locking relay opened the ECU power supply circuit. I cleaned the central locking fuse and the car came to life. But your signaling may be powered from something else.
People! Tell me what it could be. Previously, the car started normally. Then I replaced the timing belt and somehow it started to start wrong, something like this:))): you you you you you you tyhhhh it started, in short, the starter spins for a long time (but the first time). I disassembled the entire starter, cleaned it, lubricated it, and installed it. Everything seemed to start up ok, but it felt like there was too much lubricant in there, that it was stuck. I took it off again, removed the excess, and installed it. And again it started you you you you you started. I've already removed the starter 3 times, maybe something else, but no results.
The check does not light up when the ignition is turned on VAZ 2112 16 valves
I somehow miraculously solved the problem (including thanks to your advice), i.e. The check engine came on, the pump started and started.
I'll tell you what I did and how I solved it. In order with the reasoning.
About the fuel pump:
blurted out without thinking, I attached the voltage regulator to one of the bolts on which the adsorber is attached.
Battery is normal:
1. Immediately before the breakdown, I drove around the city for 2 hours. Agree that it is easier to start a dead battery with a hot engine than with a cold one (noted from experience). Those. If the battery had died, I would not have been able to start the car before the trip. 2. I removed the terminals at night. Today, when I approached the car, the first thing I did was measure the voltage at the battery terminals in the open position - 12.45 V. Then, when connecting the terminals at rest, about the same amount (about 12.45 V). 3. The instrument panel and many consumers are working. In position 1 of the ignition switch, the following operate: - Low and high beam headlights (including on the panel). — Turn signals, emergency lights (including on the panel). — Handbrake. — Brake when trying to restart. - Bake. — Heated rear window.
After measuring the voltage on the battery, the wires coming from the battery began to ring. Before installing the voltage regulator, I changed the negative wire of the battery to a thick lead wire (called “Euro” in the store). The old one had a bad thin terminal that was bent, did not fit well to the battery, did not clamp well, and its cross-section was smaller than the new one and the wiring going to the body to the headlight (insulation) was damaged. I drove with the new one for several days. All was good. These days I monitored the battery charge with a multimeter and looked at the BC. Therefore, from the context I thought that it was not the negative wire. However, I decided to call him. I called, everything is OK.
By the way, before installing a new negative wire on the battery, I noticed this:
— Noticeable voltage drops at the battery terminals when the engine is running with consumers turned on. — When listening to music loudly, I sometimes noticed the backlight on the radio tape recorder flickering. And also (if I’m not mistaken) I noticed a barely noticeable flickering of the headlights with a loud radio. ! After installing the negative wire and regulator, these problems disappeared.
Next, I checked the wire that supplies power to the ECU (which comes from the battery). I stuck a needle behind the barrel and measured the voltage between the needle and the battery negative. 12.45 V (approx.) Those. Everything is fine with this wire, the fuse is not blown. Wrapped it up with duct tape.
Then the positive wire from the battery, which goes to the gene, rang. All OK.
Then I climbed inside. First I listened to the relays, which are on the right at the passenger’s feet. When the key is switched to position 1, they are all silent.
M.b. Of course, I’m a moron and it’s impossible to do this, but then I switched the key to zero and, without removing the terminal from the battery, pulled out the relay that supplies power to the ECU. I connected a voltmeter to the contacts at 85 and 86 - there is about 11.4 V. Next, I connected the voltmeter to the 2 opposite contacts, along which the relay should close when the key is switched to position 1 of the ignition switch. I switch to position 1. There is nothing there. Those. The power does not reach the relay itself.
Chevrolet Lanos 2008, 86 l. With. - breakdown
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Comments 25
The same situation happened today, I thought that was it, the ECU was screwed up, the check light didn’t light up and the car wouldn’t start, it turned out to be the EFI fuse
Where is that EFI fuse?
Hello from 2022, I discovered a problem on a 2006 VAZ 2113. I opened the computer, found acidified contacts on the board, cleaned it with alcohol and a cotton swab. Now the check works as it should.
I had exactly the same experience. I searched for two days. I dismantled the floor of the car. I measured the resistance between the ECU housing and the negative terminal of the battery = 1.5 kOhm. I connected the wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the ECU housing and the check light came on and the pump started working and started with half a turn. I don’t know if this is possible or necessary)) but for now I’m happy.
Your immobilizer just goes off. We need to turn it off. Or press the button on the door opener remote control several times and try to start it
Good day! Guys are just as bad. Car Camry 40 2008, automatic transmission. I turn on the ignition - the ABS and VSC system come on, but the check engine light is off. The starter is oily, but there are 0 signs of life. While researching this problem, there were a million different versions from many specialists. In just two days my brain has been boiling... I came across a very interesting fact - after disassembling the ECU, there was water inside. the entire board was covered in dew. Now I’m thinking... How will it end for me and how did the water get there? Before this day, I actually drove 500 kilometers through heavy rain. But this is not a ZHIGULI after all... But anyway, when connecting via OBD, the note does not see the ECU at all. not to mention counting mistakes. Maybe someone knows where to start? how to check the connection between the ECU and the car (power supply at the output and input) Thank you all in advance.
Good day . In short, I have the same favla and I don’t have enough anger. The faw Chinese car started up without any problems: I drove in the evening in the morning and it didn’t start (the characteristic sound of pumping the fuel pump disappeared, the checkbox didn’t light up), I took it to the service center after lunch, I thought I’d let it start from a tow, both of them didn’t start, Alelujah, I’m shocked, let’s work for about 3 minutes at idle, it stalled, I started it right away by turning the key without any difficulty! I got to the service station under my own power, it turned out that the only thing that had not been repaired was the electrician who climbed into the computer and poked it and said that he had corrected the error, well, I’m glad, I left the territory, the error check came on again, mourning! I rode for four days, sometimes it stalled twice, twice, three times, and the high point came, it wouldn’t start. I tried to get it in tow again for service without success! I got to the service center, one craftsman said it was the fuel pump in the ice (this happened)! Well, as a rule, they gave up and began to disassemble the tank, removed everything in order, the pump works directly, the current pressure gives 6 points (I’m in shock). We started looking for the problem (electrician). No, the bastards are the official service of the car dealership. They say relay in unison. I flew out and bought it to no avail, everything was protected and looked normal. Well, what should I do? I found the left electrician, he walked for about 15 minutes and came across a computer that said that it wasn’t plowing, well, without thinking for a long time, I found the same machine, took it off and installed it for myself, the result was 0, my work machine started up fantastic! The result is that the electrician on the left side of the car is disassembled, the holidays are ahead, these restrictions don’t work, what should I do, what’s the problem? I also tinkered with what this master was doing in it.
