How to set the ignition on a 16 valve Lada engine » Auto Tips

Setting timing marks on a 16-valve VAZ-2112 with your own hands

Car: VAZ-2112.
Asks: Kostikov Vladimir Igorevich. The essence of the question: I can’t correct the timestamps, how to set TMV tags? I have a problem. When replacing the timing belt, the upper pulleys were not blocked and now it is not clear how to expose them. The marks on the pulleys do not "point" in exactly one direction. Maybe it would be easier to turn all the pulleys to TDC in cylinder 1? If we are talking about 16 valves, then the markings on the VAZ-2112 are familiar to me: I performed this operation on timing belt 21124. Well, I have a 1.5 engine. Are there any differences?

Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2112 16V

Replacing the timing belt of a VAZ 2112 16V in a car service center by specialists using a complex scheme...

Greetings, car enthusiast on the autoblog RtiIvaz.ru! Today we will look at the work scheme for replacing the timing belt and tension rollers in a car service center on a 16-valve, 1.5-liter VAZ 2112 car engine by masters of their craft.

Replacing the timing belt is a responsible operation that must be performed in accordance with the regulations prescribed by the manufacturer. It is extremely undesirable to exceed the prescribed mileage before replacement, since when the timing belt breaks, the valves bend as they meet the pistons.

About timing marks and their displacement — Lada 2111, 1.6 l., 2005 on DRIVE2

I have been looking for information about the valve timing of 124 internal combustion engines for a long time, and now I came across this material completely by accident. In general, I understand what is being said here. But it would be nice if someone thoroughly chewed on what exactly a change in one or another direction of pulsations, the angle of inclination of the first peak, passing through zero and the maximum value of the vacuum vacuum mean.

From my own experience, I can say that shifting the entrance 1 tooth to the right adds elasticity. And also the intake and exhaust are shifted to the right. And shifting the descent to the left gives a noticeable jerk (acceleration) somewhere around 3500 rpm.

Timing PHASES on a VAZ 2112. The belt is specially moved to one tooth, forward and backward. Engine 21124 (1.6 16kl.) Gearboxes:

Gear 2112

Norm

• ХХ = 840 rpm (engine is warm, measured after turning off the fan, t = 97 degrees) • the difference between DR and DPKV is 0.32 degrees; First, auto-tuning is performed according to DPKV, then an indicator (1 or 2) is set at the beginning of the line (i.e., the value of the marker displayed on the line will be equal to 0). Auto-tuning is then performed based on DR and the marker value (on the ruler) previously set at the beginning of the ruler. The displayed value will be considered the difference. 2) the difference between DPKV and DR is calculated as in point 1, but vice versa. First, auto-tuning is performed using DR, then using DPKV 3) Real UOZ - UOZ according to the scanner 4) As a result of all experiments, the ECU did not generate a direction finding error (phase sensor

Release the norm of tooth 0; 1 posterior tooth entry

Signs: • ХХ = 840 rpm (t = 92 degrees) • The angle of inclination of the 1st peak has increased, it has become softer • Pulsations have decreased • The maximum values of vacuum and vacuum have decreased • Extra transitions from 0 to appeared) Automatic adjustment by DR • the difference between the DR and DPKV is -8.44 degrees • SOP 25 degrees (real 15 degrees) • the closing degrees of the exhaust valves have shifted slightly to the right • the phase overlap has shifted slightly to the right side b) Auto-tuning for DPKV • the difference between DPKV and DR is +8, 27 degrees • SOP 16 degrees (actual 15 degrees) • Exhaust valves close late and intake valves open later • Overlap phase shifted to the right

Release the norm of tooth 0; Input 1 tooth forward

• ХХ = 850 rpm (t = 92 degrees) • The angle of inclination of the 1st peak has decreased, it has become steeper • The pulsations have become larger • The maximum values of vacuum and vacuum have become much larger • There are extra transitions through 0 a) Auto-tuning in accordance with DR • difference between DR and DPKV is +15 degrees • UOZ 3 degrees (15 real degrees), missing in DR waveform b) Auto-tuning according to DPKV • difference between DPKV and DP – 15 degrees • UOZ 16 degrees (15 real degrees) , missed within the DR waveform • Exhaust valves close earlier and intake valves open earlier • Overlap phase shifted to the left Release 1 tooth forward; Normal input 0 tooth • XX = 840 rpm (t = 92 degrees) • The inclination angle of the 1st vertex has remained virtually unchanged • Pulsations have decreased • The maximum values of vacuum and vacuum have decreased slightly DPKV to + 3 degrees • SOP according to DR 12 degrees ( real 15 degrees) b) Auto-tuning by DPKV • difference between DPKV and DR is -3.47 degrees • UOZ by DPKV 15 degrees (real 15 degrees) • Drain valves close a little earlier and inlet valves open a little earlier • The overlap phase is shifted to the left

Release 1 tooth forward; Standard input 0 teeth

In what cases is replacement required?

To understand that the timing belt needs to be replaced, you need to visually inspect the element.

It is necessary to stop using it if the following damage is detected:

cracks, cuts have appeared on top of the timing belt, or its base is delaminating;
if the notches located on the inside of the belt are damaged.

The most common reasons why a belt breaks:

the car enthusiast simply does not know how to tighten it properly;
improper operation or use of the belt for longer than the specified period;
contact with the belt surface of coolant, fuel, lubricant;
incorrect operation of the water pump;
play in the belt rollers: tension and support.

If you do not ensure the correct adjustment of the belt, do not inspect and replace the rollers on the VAZ 2112, this can lead to other breakdowns. We will find out which timing belt rollers for the VAZ 2110-2112 16v are better from the author of the video, MegaMeyhem.

If the timing belt breaks, it will disrupt the operation of the entire engine. Then everything descends into chaos: valves and pistons touch each other because their movements are not controlled. As a result of the impact, the valves bend and, touching the pistons, damage their outer walls, scratch the cylinders and important parts of the gas distribution mechanism.

In addition to visual diagnostics of delamination, cracks and other things, it is recommended for a VAZ 2112 car (including the injector) every 50 thousand km. movement to change the belt. Which timing belt for a VAZ is better to choose is described below.

Set the timing marks correctly - otherwise you will bend the valves!

The VAZ-21124 engine has a peculiarity: no matter how its pulleys rotate, it does not bend the valves. With the 21120 engine (16v 1.5l) such bits will not work! If the pulley positions do not drop too far, try putting on the belt and moving the mechanism to the "TDC 1 and 4" position. And from now on, always use the instructions:

The crankshaft is brought to the required position by checking the mark on the generator transmission pulley (photo 1) or on the crankshaft pulley (photo 2);

Alternator drive pulley and crankshaft pulley

Exhaust and inlet pulley

Theoretically, the marking on the VAZ-2112 is the same, regardless of what type of engine we are talking about. Here is a photo of engine 21120.

What it all looks like in reality and in the instructions

Take the time to locate the inspection window on the gear housing. There is another sign under the thorn.

The last step is optional. And they do this so as not to redo all the work from scratch.”

The mark on the crankshaft pulley sometimes breaks: use control method “1” (photo 1) or “3” (photo below).
The number of belt teeth between o is 16;

Updates for VAZ-21124

On the 1.6 engine, all actions are performed as described above. There is one exception: the generator drive pulley is installed according to the mark on the casing (see photo).

Generator drive pulley, engine 21124

However, if this sign is not present, then use the proven method - count 20 teeth from the body of the DPKV. Instead of 21 there should be "pass".

The timing pulleys can be turned at will - the pistons never touch the valves. Compare the appearance of the pistons of two different engines - it will become clear what we are talking about.

Two different 16-valve valves

For those who don't understand anything

The number of teeth on the crankshaft pulley is 21, on the camshaft pulleys – 42. When the crankshaft is rotated 360 degrees, the camshafts rotate 180 degrees. Typically, a complete engine cycle consists of two revolutions of the crankshaft (720 degrees).

In theory, an alternative tuning method could be used. Place the marks on the camshaft pulley down. Then the mark on the crankshaft pulley should point upward (TDC 1 and 4).

If there is no clasp, you can make one yourself. A suspension spring remover will also work (see photo).

How to change it yourself?

Before changing the timing belt yourself, you need to study the diagram of the gas distribution mechanism, stock up on the necessary tools, and also imagine the order of work in the form of a sequence of actions.

Before replacing, study the timing diagram

There are differences between modifications of the VAZ 2112, but the basic algorithm is approximately the same for all modifications. This algorithm can also be used on VAZ cars of other modifications, for example, 2110. It is necessary to have a good manual that explains the progress of work step by step. And if you have at least a little experience in car maintenance and minor repairs, we can calmly carry out timing belt maintenance ourselves and change the necessary parts.

Tools and materials

The set of basic tools is small:

socket heads for 10, 15 and 17;
spanner or open-end wrench 17;
large flat screwdriver;
key for the tensioner pulley (if power steering is installed on the car).

The materials required are a new timing belt.

Step-by-step instruction

The work begins by removing the negative terminal of the battery.
Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the six bolts and remove the gas distribution mechanism cover.
The crankshaft sensor chip is disconnected.
The crankshaft sensor mount is unscrewed. Then you need to remove the sensor.
The sensor hole must be aligned with the part of the pulley where there are no teeth. This is done so that the crankshaft sensor can detect TDC (top dead center). In addition, the area without teeth is used to block the pulley. After alignment, you need to put a 12mm hexagon in the hole of the sensor and fix the pulley.
When the pulley is blocked, the generator nut is unscrewed.
The belt tension roller bolt is loosened. After this, the belt is removed. Often during this operation the tension and support rollers and the pump are also changed.
Installing a new timing belt. There are two ways to correctly install this part. First: put on the belt with the tension roller removed. The tension is adjusted after installing the roller. Second: install the belt by turning the exhaust camshaft pulley using a 17mm wrench.
Next, you need to tighten the timing belt using the adjusting bolt. It rotates using a 10 key. Rotation clockwise increases the tension, counter-clockwise weakens it.

Replacing the timing belt 16 cl engine — Lada 2112, 1.6 l., 2007 on DRIVE2

Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2112 1.6 16 cl.

1. Remove the timing belt cover. Timing belt guard secured with six bolts. Remove the chip from the crankshaft sensor, unscrew the bolt and remove the sensor.

2. There is a missing tooth on the pulley, this is not without reason, this allows the crankshaft sensor to determine the top dead center, and also allows you to block the crankshaft, unscrew and tighten the pulley bolt.

3. The pulley is then aligned with the crankshaft sensor hole and a suitable tube or other suitable object is inserted through the sensor hole, in my case it is a hex wrench, the pulley is locked and then unscrewed and removed.

4. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut and remove the old timing belt.

5. Install a new belt, the belt can be installed by moving the right camshaft with a wrench, or you can remove the tensioner roller in any way you like.

6. Tighten the pulley bolt back and align the timing belt drive gear to the marks. If there are no marks on the oil pump body, put marks on the flywheel and for one make a mark on the oil pump with a chisel, this will be more convenient.

7. We join the marks of the camshaft pulleys so that the timing belt drive gear does not get lost

8. Use a special wrench to tighten the belt with the tension roller. If there is no key, don't worry, you can tighten it with two nails and a screwdriver between them, or you can take a steel fork, remove the two center prongs completely, shorten the outer two in half and fold them over. Don't forget to tighten the tensioner nut. (To tighten the belt, turn the tensioner pulley counterclockwise (about 10-15 °), to loosen it clockwise)

9. We check the crankshaft two full turns and check the marks, if all three marks match, put the pulley in place, do not forget the generator belt and crankshaft sensor, then the belt cover and you can start the engine.

Timing belt tension

1. Check the belt tension. A correctly tensioned belt should rotate 90 ° from the finger force (1.5-2 kgf) in the middle between the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.

2. I run two fingers between the camshafts and up and down. 5-6 mm swings back and forth, then I go away.

3. Adjust the timing belt tension using a suitable tool. The most correct belt tension is 2 kgf. Having achieved this, fasten the fixing nut.

4. The manual inspection method is described in detail in the "Manual". It involves checking the tension of the timing belt at the center of the branch between the camshaft pulleys. It should be such that the belt deflection is 5.4 mm under the influence of an object 3 mm wide with a force of 10 kg. Deviations in any direction are allowed no more than 0.2 mm. The engine must be at “ambient air” temperature (+ 15-30 ° C). A belt that is too tight will break - the strength of the strings is limited. And the tighter the belt is, the faster the threads will break. Even a weakened belt will not run for long, because when entering the pulley, the belt teeth do not fall into the grooves of the pulley teeth - undercutting occurs and the subsequent separation of the teeth from the base.

Features of labeling

Before installing another timing belt, it is better to set the crankshaft and camshaft to the specified marks from the very beginning. We set the gears to 0 position. Points A, B, C, D, E, F must match as shown in the picture. After this, you need to set the marks on the camshafts and the belt casing in the same position.

Timing belt tension diagram

To check the location of the crankshaft, remove the plug from the box, which is installed under the thermostat, and look for the flywheel. If the marks on the camshaft and the casing match, then there should be a match in the cut on the flywheel and on the metal casing.

All alignments must be clear, the marks must match for proper operation of the belt. After the mark is installed on the flywheel, it must be fixed in this position so as not to break off the thread. And then, as mentioned, you can begin to tension and adjust the timing belt.

Injector types

The injector controls fuel injection and can also control the ignition. On all new injection machines, the ignition is set by a computer and adjusted by compiling various firmware. But this was not always the case, and on old cars, the same Japanese ones from the 90s, the ECU only regulates fuel injection, and the ignition timing is set using a distributor and set in the same way as on old models. Lada, but depending on the speed, the ignition timing is adjusted using a more complex vacuum system than the Zhiguli carburetor. Sometimes a pipe breaks during operation and the traction is lost; you will have to look for and correct this defect.

How to set timing marks on a 124 engine

Should the tension be checked on a hot or cold engine?

In conclusion, let’s talk about two more secrets. The first one - as a reminder: on a 16-valve engine, the correct belt tension is obtained only when adjusted while hot. Second: depending on the position of the crankshaft and camshafts, the belt tension changes cyclically from minimum to maximum

Second: depending on the position of the crankshaft and camshafts, the belt tension changes cyclically from minimum to maximum

A little different. Or rather, almost like that, but I don’t know how to explain. In general, under the action of valve springs, camshafts in certain positions tend to rotate in different directions, tensioning or relaxing the belt. But there are situations in which the springs of one cylinder themselves balance the springs of the other - and the RV pulley itself will not rotate anywhere. And this position is close to the TDC position

Or rather, it is 2 teeth away from it (in fact, it depends on the shafts used). 2 teeth is a small thing. One spring has not yet straightened out, and the other has just begun to compress. The force there is minimal, the RV pulley can be turned +/- 5 teeth easily by hand

Ignition system sensors and marks

For the ignition system to work properly, the computer must read the correct information from the sensors. In the future, this information will be processed using fuel maps embedded in the injector.

The main signal comes from the crankshaft sensor. This sensor shows the position of the crankshaft at a given moment and, guided by it, calculates at what moment it is necessary to inject fuel and at what moment the same fuel should be ignited, depending on the engine speed, which is also determined by this sensor.

1 – drive shaft of the drive disk; 2 – crankshaft position sensor; 3 – angle of rotation of the crankshaft; 4 – output signal of the crankshaft position sensor

And here is what a typical signal looks like when the computer receives it from the crankshaft sensor. Notice the 270°: this is like the zero point, which tells the computer that the motor has turned and that a new cycle is starting. This is achieved by missing a tooth on the crankshaft sprocket.

Lada 2112 2007, 89 l. With. - with your own hands

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Comments 48

I don’t know what they write about here regarding belt tensioning on 2112; on PRIOR everything is tightened bit by bit through the tension roller. The right branch of the belt must already be laid through the guide roller: - through two camshaft pulleys, a crankshaft toothed pulley, through the pump and have sufficient tension. In this case, the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft toothed pulley must be fixed to the corresponding counter marks. In this position, holding the belt with your hand on the left side of the branch, on the side of the tension roller, so that it does not weaken and does not jump over the teeth, no matter where and in what place (and this is possible even for one tooth), we place or slip the tension roller under the belt , insert its bolt and tighten everything with such a turn of the roller by hand that the belt does not loosen and does not jump over the teeth.

Next, spin the engine several times, or maybe it’s better, by the wheel with 4-5 gear engaged, and make sure that all the marks on all the pulleys match perfectly. How to recognize the mark on the gear ring of the generator drive pulley on the crankshaft, I have already written below and given a drawing. With the wheel removed and the stand hanging up with the steering wheel turned, this crown and the DPKV are clearly visible, or almost well, through the mirror.

Then, after cranking the engine several times by hand, carefully, slowly - and what the hell is not joking, the marks didn’t match when parked and the valves were bent with the starter, yikes, then you begin to tighten the roller to working condition.

At the moment when, when cranking the engine, the right branch self-tensions when viewed from the side of the pulleys - and the left one weakens, this is where you need to tighten the roller - like how everyone around writes and rips off each other. On a Priora, the tension of the roller may be weak or weak, the belt will jump, or the roller may be pressed against the belt so that it and other damn spare parts will become sick.

Don't be afraid to start the engine to see how your video lives when the engine is running. Nothing will happen to either the belt or the roller when adjusting in a tightened state. The main thing is that the belt does not dangle too much, otherwise it will either fly off or fly like plywood over the toothed pulleys and damn it, bend the valves. If the tension roller is dead, overtightened, the belt may hum a little from the tightening, which in turn will affect the PUMP because it will not last long from a strongly overtightened belt (of course it will not immediately fall apart) - then we begin manipulations to tension the roller . The ROLLER on a Priora should be alive when the engine is running. It should vibrate inconspicuously on the tension spring and this is clearly noticeable, and when you press the gas sharply it jumps, pushing up well with the belt and this can be seen even by a blind mole.

Replacement process

When does a belt need to be replaced? If you naively trust the manufacturer and hope that it will last all 100 thousand kilometers, then problems cannot be avoided. An experienced and knowledgeable driver will always conduct a visual inspection, noting signs of replacement, such as:

the appearance of hanging threads and loosening of the belt.
various folds, cuts, ligaments, etc.;
traces of oil on the belt;
excessive wear of teeth located on the inside of the belt surface or cracks;

Note. It would be a good idea to check the tensioner pulley, which, if it malfunctions, can cause colossal damage not only to the belt, but also to the main parts of the internal combustion engine.

Replacement is carried out using the following tools:

long lever or screwdriver.
special circlip remover;
keys 15 and 17 (normal and ringtone);
a special key with which you can adjust the take-up reel;

Belt removal

Let's proceed with the replacement, presented here in the form of detailed instructions:

place the piston of the first cylinder at the top dead center position;
remove the generator drive belt;
de-energize the battery;

subsequently turn the tensioner roller slightly to reduce the timing belt tension;
take a 15 mm wrench and unscrew the bolt securing the tensioner pulley;

Note. To easily unscrew the generator drive mounting bolt, you need to rest the support against the crankshaft so that it does not rotate. It is best to use the services of an assistant who will prevent the crankshaft from turning when the bolt is loosened.

remove, but very carefully, the washer from the drive pulley;
remove the generator drive pulley;
then take a 17mm wrench and unscrew the bolt securing the crankshaft pulley;
remove together with the washer;

remove the timing belt from the crankshaft pulley.

Installation

Before you begin installing a new timing belt, you should carefully prepare everything. First of all, this concerns cleaning the pulley from oil and dirt, as well as cleaning the take-up reel.

Note. If the parts are very dirty, it is recommended to use a cloth soaked in gasoline or white alcohol.

Like:

we mount the generator drive pulley in place (there is a special recess on it that needs to be placed);

put the new belt in place.

Note. When installing a new belt, pay attention to the tension of the drive branch.

take a 15 mm wrench and tighten the bolt that secures the tensioner pulley.
turn the roller until the notch on the disk coincides with the protrusion on the inner sleeve of the tension roller (rectangular protrusion);
We arm ourselves with a special key and extractor;
insert the key into the grooves of the tensioner roller located outside;

Note. If after installing the belt you hear a characteristic noise in the camshaft, there are probably problems with the tension roller bearing, which is also of great importance for internal combustion engine mechanisms.

To check this, you need to disassemble the rollers and begin to slowly rotate the bearing, making sure that there are no gaps or jams. In addition, you need to pay attention to traces of oil leaks. If the above malfunctions are detected, it is necessary to replace the roller itself.

We change this part too

To replace the tension roller you will have to buy a new one, which is not that expensive. It is also recommended to watch this video.

Note. When installing a new tension pulley, make sure the holes for the special wrench are facing outward.

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Set the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position on the compression stroke:

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by the pulley mounting bolt using a 19mm socket.
Aligning the marks on the camshaft timing belt with the mounting tab on the rear timing cover.
Remove the rubber plug at the top of the clutch housing.
Make sure that the mark on the flywheel is located opposite the slot in the clutch housing cover.

Further actions:

We fix the crankshaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver through the hole in the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth.
Unscrew the bolt securing the generator drive pulley and remove it.
Loosen the tension roller mounting nut using a 17mm wrench.
Rotate the tension pulley until the belt is as loose as possible, and then remove the timing belt.

Ignition control

Electronic ignition control

How to set the ignition angle? In systems with electronic ignition control, this can be done using computer diagnostics that are connected to the electronic control unit (ECU) or "brains" of the car. And there you can see how the engine operates in real time: what signals the sensors receive, what engine speed, fuel consumption, injection time, ignition time and other input and output data.

Essentially, you don't need to change anything while running unless you change the firmware. That is, if the machine somehow began to work incorrectly, then most likely there could be several reasons:

An incorrect signal is received from the sensors: in this case, you can replace the supposedly faulty sensor with a replacement one that is known to be good, and see if the result changes.
The mains voltage is incorrect and as a result the sensors produce an incorrect signal. The input signal to the sensor is 5 V, if this value is different, the ECU will receive incorrect input data and the engine will not be able to operate normally.
Faulty ECU. Quite often it happens that, having considered everything possible, it turns out that the brain has flown. But it’s not scary, they are cheap at VAZ.

Therefore, the ignition itself is not installed on injection machines; it is already included in the system, but it is worth checking whether the signs are set correctly.

Adjusting the ignition marks on the VAZ-2110 injector

When the engine is running, some phases must work synchronously, the camshaft must coincide with the crankshaft, and the timing of fuel injection and ignition must be associated with them. Let's look at all this using the VAZ-2110 as an example.

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2110 injector

If the car does not start, shoots, sneezes and everything is in the tube, then there are no signs somewhere and this needs to be solved.

On any car, the timing marks must be set perfectly, only then it will work normally. On the VAZ-2110, the crankshaft mark is located on the flywheel. You need to look through the inspection window on the gearbox housing, through which you can see the flywheel. It's better to use a flashlight because it's not that easy to see.

Belt faults

Malfunctions of the timing belt can arise as a result of its long-term operation, and can also be the result of incorrect adjustment or malfunctions of the pump or tension roller. These include:

violation of the integrity of the belt (cracks, delamination);
deformation;
belt break.

If any of the specified malfunctions are detected, the belt must be replaced.

Causes of belt breakage

One of the common problems with the model is the failure of the timing belt. The reasons for this may be different:

Simple wear and tear caused by a long period of use of the vehicle;
Regular increased loads under which the engine has to work intensively;
Mechanical damage as a result of improper operation or received during the repair of other components;
Manufacturing defect.

Over time, it stretches so much that the gear teeth jump by 1-2 links. This disrupts the valve timing and causes interruptions in engine operation. But this is the best-case scenario for such a situation. The worst is when the strap breaks and the valves bend. By the way, this problem was finally solved on the new Lada Vesta.

List of damage to the timing belt on the VAZ 2110

Replacing the timing belt of a VAZ 2110 8-valve injector with your own hands is carried out:

As a result of increased tension, the surface begins to become shaggy. Gaps appear.
If the product was loosely tensioned, this leads to cutting off the tooth. In such a situation, replacing the VAZ 2110 8-valve timing belt on a VAZ 2110 is required immediately.
The teeth are largely worn. This is also a consequence of poor tension adjustment.
The surface of the product is covered with small cracks. This happens due to prolonged overheating or hypothermia.
Sometimes the wear area is between the teeth. This is also the result of poor belt tension.
If oil constantly leaks from the engine and gets on the belt, then the product is removed. Then you need to find and fix the leak. The timing belt is replaced with a new one.
On a VAZ 2110 with 8 valves, the timing belt is changed if there was a misalignment during its installation. Its end wear is observed.

When driving the car, you must constantly listen to noises. When it is clearly audible in the engine area, it means you need to stop and tighten the belt.

In some cases, the tooth skips. This problem is indicated by a signal from the sensor. It is necessary to stop and carry out another drive adjustment.

Timing belt life

From time to time you need to inspect the belt and replace it if:

the belt structure began to delaminate;
cracks appeared on the surface;
the teeth that are on the inner surface of the consumable are damaged.

But what could be the reasons that the consumable has reached a state where it is no longer possible to do without replacing it:

the consumable was not properly tensioned initially;
the belt has been used longer than expected;
a lubricant has reached the surface;
the water pump did not work well;
the tension roller had play.

If you do not periodically inspect the belt and do not change it on time, this can ultimately lead to a break. And a break is very serious, since in this case the pistons will collide with the valves. As a result, they will be damaged and the engine part will have to be seriously repaired. A broken belt drive will cause real chaos, as a result of which other timing parts will also suffer serious damage.

The manufacturer promises that you should be interested in the condition of the belt only after 50,000 km. This is not entirely true, because premature wear of consumables can be influenced by a number of factors, such as aggressive driving or weather conditions. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect the belt drive after 20-25,000 km.

Signs by which you can determine the need to replace the VAZ 2110 timing belt

To replace the timing belt on time, you need to monitor the condition of the engine. The timing belt needs to be replaced if:

there are oil leaks on it;
there are many cracks and signs of increased wear on its surface;
timing belt teeth are damaged;
the belt has delaminated, cuts, bulges or folds have appeared;
threads appeared on the surface.

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2110

Among the most popular domestic cars, it is worth highlighting the VAZ 2110, or as it is also called “Ten”. This car was produced from 1995 to 2007. The 8-valve VAZ 2110 was a kind of replacement for the usual carburetor. The main difference between the models is the method of supplying fuel to the fuel cylinders. In the injection machine, everything happened under pressure.

The VAZ 2110 has 8 valves and the engine is more powerful. In this case, fuel consumption is lower. Repairing a car requires the use of additional equipment and painstaking work. Engine capacity 1.5 – 1.6 liters. How to correctly set the ignition on the valve injector of a VAZ 2110 8? To do this, you need to know the technology of work, and then all the actions will seem simple. This will be discussed further.

Recommendations for installation and assembly

The first step is to check again that all marks match and correct if necessary. The new VAZ 2110 timing belt begins to be put on the pulleys after the new rollers have been installed and screwed on. The operation begins with the lower pulley, the belt is placed on it, aligning the teeth, and then, under a slight tension, on the upper two pulleys so that the teeth coincide (on an 8-valve engine there is one upper pulley). Holding the belt in slight tension, use a special key to move the roller to it, using it to ensure the belt tension. The position of the roller is fixed with a nut. Now use the wrench to make two full revolutions of the crankshaft and again check the alignment of the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the flywheel. If the mark on the camshaft pulley has moved in one direction or another by a couple of millimeters, this is allowed. The belt tension is finally checked, after which you can reassemble in the reverse order and start the engine, this completes the replacement of the timing belt on the VAZ “Ten”.

When to tension the timing belt

The timing belt tension on the VAZ-2112 and other VAZ models is carried out in the following cases:

Installing a new belt;
Loose belt;
“Slipping” of the belt with a violation of time;
Replacement of the tension roller and other timing drive mechanisms.

If the reason for the operation is a break or “slippage” of the belt, you must first make sure that the valves are in good condition. Failure of the gas distribution mechanism (drive) leads to engine failure on 16-valve 1.5-liter power units. However, if the drive fails at high speeds, the valves and CPGs also fail on other engines.

Check the functionality of the timing belt on the VAZ-2114 and other models equipped with 8-valve units by turning the camshaft manually. The operating mechanism should turn with some effort. This usually does not affect the faulty one.

During the procedure, it is necessary to check the compression in each of the cylinders. The easiest way to do this is to cover the candle hole well with paper. If there is pressure in the cylinder, the pin will be pushed out of the seat at some point during the firing of the camshaft. It is not recommended to carry out such a test on 16-valve engines. The risk of damage to initially good fittings is too great. There are no holes in the pistons of one and a half liter engines of this type. Consequently, the downward moving valves bend as they contact the piston surface.

Why do you need a timing belt?

In all cars, the timing belt acts as a connecting element between the camshaft and the crankshaft. After all, as you know during operation, the crankshaft rotates due to the work of the piston group, and in order for the camshaft to open the valves at the top point, synchronization of their movement is necessary. The timing belt does this job. In other words, in the absence of such a link, the engine simply will not move. Therefore, it is very important to maintain it in excellent working condition and replace it on time.

How to choose a timing belt?

Complete kit from Gates - timing belt and rollers, all that remains is to choose a pump

Which timing belt to choose? Which one has a longer service life? These and many other questions are asked by many VAZ-2112 owners when choosing a new timing belt. Of course, there is a large selection of belts in stores, and the seller will select one for you based on your parameters, focusing only on the manufacturer.

Among Russian manufacturers, VAZ-2112 owners, according to reviews from most forums, have a leading timing belt - OJSC BRT Balakovo . Further, with a large lag, car enthusiasts choose belts from Gates and Bosch . However, the latter is not stable, because its breakdown can occur either at the 5,000th mileage or at the 20th.

In addition, there are enhanced options from the above-mentioned manufacturers.

Work order

Before starting work, you need to enter information into the control unit. Sensors will help with this.

To set up the ignition on the 8-valve injector of a VAZ 2110, you need to have some skills related to car repairs:

Find the gas distribution mechanism and remove it from the case.
The distance between the sensor and the crankshaft toothed disk should be no more than 0.5 - 0.7 mm. This is necessary so that the pulse from the sensor can pass without continuous sparking.
The crankshaft pulley should remain in place. How can I check this? The marks located on the flywheel will help with this. They should match the marks on the gearbox. To do this, you need to turn the crankshaft.
Make sure the mark on the oil pump aligns with the cylinder block protrusion.
The mark on the camshaft drive wheel should align with the rib on the timing belt cover.
Pistons 1, 4 cylinders, while all points are aligned, will be in the upper position. The distance between the teeth should correspond to the protrusion on the cylinder block. The tooth located in the 20th position will coincide with the crankshaft sensor.
The signal will be sent from the sensor to the internal combustion engine control system. This will mean that the piston of the first cylinder is in the upper position in a compressed state.

Replacing timing belt VAZ 2110 16 valves

Replacing the VAZ 2110 timing belt 16 valves in VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112 cars. Requires regular performance. Of course, an injector with sixteen valves adds agility to our Lada and this is pleasantly pleasing. There is a fly in the ointment. The timing belt must not be allowed to break due to wear. This leads to damage to the cylinder head.

The content of the article:

How to avoid valve failure

The camshafts are stationary and at the moment when the piston approaches top dead center, the valves remain open, resulting in the piston hitting the open valves, which leads to the valves bending and in some cases destroying the seats and guides. Repairs are of course expensive.

This can be avoided by installing pistons in the engine with recesses for the valves, such as in the photo. It is not advisable to replace this on purpose, since engines have a significant service life, and there is no point in disassembling a working engine. Therefore, it is easier and cheaper to simply change the timing belt in a timely manner, especially since it does not require extensive experience in locksmith work and deep knowledge in the field of car repair, but just attentiveness and knowledge of some of the nuances when installing the belt itself.

Disassembling the timing belt

Where to start replacing the belt. First, you need to remove the alternator belt drive pulley. It’s convenient to do this if you remove the right front wheel and the protective cover, if you still have one. The pulley mounting bolt must be unscrewed. Then remove the timing belt protection covers and the mechanism before your eyes. The nuts securing the tension rollers must be unscrewed so that when replacing the belt, the rollers can also be changed, and remove the rollers, then remove the belt itself

Installing timing marks

The crankshaft is installed so that the piston of the first cylinder is at top dead center, this position must correspond to the mark on the crankshaft timing pulley, it must align with the rib on the oil pump housing

In addition, there is a mark on the flywheel; it should be located in the center of the ignition timing scale; it is clearly visible through the inspection window located on the flywheel housing.

Having installed the crankshaft, install the camshafts in this way. So that the valves have a position corresponding to the moment of compression of the fuel in the cylinders. When the piston is at top dead center.

For this purpose, there is a mark on the camshaft timing pulley.

must align with the slot on the body of the protective casing

this is typical for both pulleys

Belt tension

Having installed the tension rollers, install the belt as shown in the photo

The hole for fastening the left tension roller is offset from the center. Due to this, the timing belt is tensioned. Using holes into which a special key is inserted (a screwdriver is also suitable)

After tensioning the belt, turn the crankshaft two turns and align the marks again. This is necessary for self-testing. If this time the marks coincided clearly. Then after installing the generator drive pulley and protective covers, the engine can be started. timing belt replacement VAZ 2110 16 valves must be done every 80,000 km

Setting the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke

Setting the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position

When carrying out work related to removing the camshaft drive belt (timing), the valve timing can be interrupted, to prevent this from happening, the piston of the 1st cylinder is set to the TDC (top dead center) position during the compression stroke. If the valve timing is incorrect, the engine will not run smoothly and will not perform properly. Set TDC according to the mark on the camshaft pulley (when installing according to the marks on the flywheel or crankshaft pulley, the piston of the 1st or 4th cylinder may be in this position). Then make sure the marks on the flywheel or crankshaft sprocket are aligned (if the alternator drive pulley was removed). If the marks on the flywheel or crankshaft pulley do not match, the valve timing is incorrect (the piston of the 1st cylinder is not installed at TDC). In this case, you need to remove the camshaft drive belt and rotate the crankshaft until the marks match. Important! Rotate the crankshaft only by the pulley bolt (do not rotate the crankshaft through the camshaft pulley itself).

TIP Since it is inconvenient to turn the crankshaft using the pulley bolt, there are two ways to do this

Engage any gear and suspend the front wheel. Then rotate the suspended wheel until the mark on the camshaft pulley aligns with the mark on the rear camshaft drive belt cover.
Engage any gear (preferably IV) and slowly move the car until the mark on the camshaft pulley aligns with the mark on the rear camshaft drive belt cover.

TDC marks VAZ 2110 2114 8 valves

The TDC marks are located on the camshaft sprocket (lug) and on the camshaft drive belt rear cover (screw).

In addition, the markings are located on the flywheel (risk) and on the scale of the rear cover of the clutch housing (triangle cutout). For clarity, the gearbox has been removed.

In addition, marks are located on the crankshaft sprocket (dot) and on the oil pump cover (V-groove). These marks are only visible when the generator drive pulley is removed.

You will need: 17" wrench, 10" socket wrench. 1. Disconnect the cable from the “-” terminal of the battery.

2. Set the gear shift lever to the neutral position, place stoppers under the car wheels.

3. Remove the right front wheel and the right fender in the engine compartment.

4. Open the hood and remove the three screws that secure the front camshaft belt housing. Note. Screws on the mounting side of the cover also secure the cable clamps. Remove the front cover.

5. Rotate the crankshaft using the bolt securing the generator drive pulley until the marks on the camshaft pulley and the rear cover match.

6. Remove the plug from the hole in the clutch housing and check the alignment of the marks on the flywheel.

TDC marks VAZ 2112 2111 16 valves

About the engine mod. 21126 (16 cl) are located on the camshaft sprockets (lugs A) and on the rear camshaft drive belt cover (slots B).

In addition, the markings are located on the flywheel (risk) and on the scale of the rear cover of the clutch housing (triangle cutout). For clarity, the transmission has been removed.

Also, all engines have marks on the crankshaft sprockets (dot) and on the oil pump cover (V-groove). These marks are only visible after removing the alternator drive pulley.

You will need: 17" wrench, 5" hex wrench, T30 TORX wrench, Phillips screwdriver.

1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screw that secures the right fender to the wheel arch trim

3. Using a torx t30 wrench, remove the two screws that secure it to the case

4. Remove the screen.

5. Open the hood and use a 5-point hex wrench to remove the five bolts that secure the upper front timing belt cover 6 . and remove the cover.

7. Using a 17-inch wrench, rotate the crankshaft by the bolt that secures the alternator drive pulley to it until the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the rear cover line up.

8. Remove the plug from the hole in the clutch housing and check the alignment of the marks on the flywheel (the thermostat has been removed for clarity).

Preparatory work

Before you start work, familiarize yourself with the timing system diagram and the location of the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft.

This is what a detailed timing belt diagram looks like.

Scheme: 1 . Crankshaft pulley. 2 . Timing belt. 3 . Water pump pulley. 4 . Tension roller. 5 . Intake camshaft pulley. 6 . Timing belt upper protective cover. 7 . Exhaust camshaft pulley. 8 . Phase sensor synchronization dial. 9 . Support roller.

A – TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley. B – Mark on the oil pump cover. C – Installation mark on the protective cover. D – Mark on the exhaust camshaft pulley. E - Mark on the intake camshaft pulley. F - Installation mark on the protective cover.

Tools for work

To carry out all the work you will need:

New timing belt for the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine.
Socket head for “10” and “17”.
The key is "17".
Screwdriver.
Tensioner pulley key.

Step-by-step replacement procedure

First of all, after opening the hood, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
Next, remove the timing belt protective cover by unscrewing 6 bolts using a “10” socket.

We clean the sensor from dirt and dismantle it.

Everything has been removed, everything needs to be replaced - that’s how it should be!

We set them up as marked with a marker.

If all work is carried out in such a strict order, the entire replacement can be done with your own hands within an hour.

Source

How to evaluate the work already done

Accurate diagnosis is carried out using a computer. However, you can also independently evaluate the correct operation of the circuit.

With the ignition off, check the contacts.
Find the voltage inside the module at terminals C and B.
Check the high voltage cable. To do this, you need to take a candle and put it in the cap. In this case, it should be secured to the cylinder block. If you start the internal combustion engine with the starter, a spark will appear. The check is carried out for all wires. If the spark does not appear, the entire ignition system must be checked or even replaced.
If the engine continues to run poorly, the fuel system needs to be checked.

For the VAZ 2110 carburetor model, markings are also made to adjust the ignition system.

If the ignition of the 8-valve injector of the VAZ 2110 occurs earlier or, conversely, late, then the ergonomics of the entire engine deteriorates. Power is also reduced. The engine is exposed to high temperatures and excessive loads. Among other things, detonation may occur. All this can lead to loss of ignition in the VAZ 2110.

What will you need for the job?

The least that can happen is that the size of the belt will increase from stretching so much that it will jump on the gear teeth by one or even two links, and the valve timing will be disrupted and the engine will begin to operate with severe interruptions. In the worst case scenario, it can end with a broken belt and bent valves. It would not be superfluous to periodically visually inspect the technical condition of the timing belt assembly; to do this, you just need to remove the protective plastic casing. The presence of deep cracks on the surface of the belt indicates that trouble may soon await you, and at the most inopportune moment, so it is better to change the product. It is worth examining the nearby VAZ 2110 alternator belt.

The manufacturer’s recommendations since the advent of the timing belt instead of a chain are clear:

It is best to change the product complete with tension rollers. The VAZ “ten” was equipped with two types of engines: 8- and 16-valve. The first has one tension roller, the second has a tension and support roller. Replacing the timing belt on the tenth VAZ model is not a complex and very labor-intensive type of work; it can be done on your own, with the required minimum of tools:

It is better to use fabric gloves at any time of the year; they are needed to protect your hands from minor injuries that can be caused by loosening threaded connections. Any car mechanic knows firsthand how this happens. An inspection ditch is not required here, but removing the right wheel may well be necessary when removing the alternator belt of a VAZ 2110 equipped with a power steering (power steering), so you need to have a jack.

Checking the ignition coil with a multimeter

Checking the voltage at the wire terminal block

Disconnect the block with wires from the ignition coil (on the H4M engine, to access the coils of cylinders 1 and 2, remove the intake pipe).
Turn on the ignition and measure the voltage at terminal 3 of the block (the pin numbering is indicated on the ignition coil).
The output voltage must be at least 12 V. If it is less or less, the battery is discharged, there is a fault in the power circuit, or the engine control unit (ECU) is faulty.
Turn off the ignition.

Why change the belt?

In accordance with the list of routine maintenance for the VAZ 2110, the timing belt must be changed after every 60-75 thousand kilometers, however, here you also need to take into account the conditions of its operation, and this is:

temperature changes;
oil getting on the belt;
problems with the tension roller;
faulty pump.

All this will inevitably lead to damage.

It is necessary to inspect at least once a month:

belt (determining its integrity);
tension roller ;
water pump gear.

And although on 8-valve VAZ engines, the valve does not bend when the belt breaks, this breakdown can damage the pump or generator.

Setting the ignition timing

Required for carburetor models only. To work you will need a tool - a strobe light. It is sold in almost all car dealerships and at a reasonable price. It is also advisable to have a wrench to unscrew the nut that secures the distributor.

When choosing the correct ignition timing, mark 1 on the flywheel should be between the central division (notch) 2 and the previous division 3 of the scale. If not, adjust the ignition timing.

To adjust the ignition timing on a VAZ 2110 you need to:

Do minimal work. The crankshaft should rotate at a maximum speed of 820-900 rpm. The tube coming from the carburetor and connecting to the vacuum valve must be disconnected.
Take a strobe light and connect the cables to the “-” and “+” terminals of the battery. The tip of the high-voltage wire must be removed from the socket and the wire coming from the strobe inserted.
Remove the rubber plug from the slot in the crankcase and point the strobe light at the free space. Next you need to start the car. During its operation, it is necessary to apply a mark to the flywheel. As soon as the engine starts, the strobe light starts. Flashing will indicate a sign. The flashing will be fast and the sign will remain stationary. However, if you move the dispenser, the label will move.
To move the label and dispenser, you must loosen the top nut securing the dispenser, as well as the 2 lower nuts. Subsequently, the distributor can be turned slightly. At this time, the mark will also move with the strobe light.

To understand the process of adjusting the ignition in more detail and clearly, it is recommended to watch the corresponding videos. To resolve the issue of how to set the ignition on the VAZ 2110 8 injector, you can also consult with experienced car owners.

Description of disassembling the mechanism

Disassembling the timing drive assembly on a VAZ 2110 with 8V and 16V engines is somewhat different; in the case of a 16-valve engine, some additional elements must be removed. Therefore, a description of the process will be posted specifically for it with reservations for the 8-valve unit. At the very beginning, you need to remove the protective plastic casing and, for greater ease of operation, remove the air filter housing and move it to the side . A sensor is installed below, opposite the crankshaft pulley. You need to disconnect the connector from it, unscrew and remove the sensor itself (this is not necessary in an 8-valve engine). Next, in both types of engines, you need to rotate the crankshaft to align all the marks on the camshaft pulleys and the engine housing. This alignment is checked by matching the mark and the slot on the flywheel; to do this, remove the rubber plug from the socket on the gearbox.

Carefully rotating the crankshaft, align all existing marks on the pulleys

Next, in order to disassemble the mechanism and remove the timing belt, you will first need to loosen and remove the alternator belt from the pulley. When performing this simple operation, the latter should be carefully examined. It is quite possible that it is also in poor condition, and at the same time the VAZ 2110 alternator belt will also need to be replaced. In cars equipped with power steering, this is an additional operation, which will be discussed below.

The next step is to loosen and unscrew the pulley bolt on which the VAZ generator belt of the tenth family is put on. To do this, jam the crankshaft with a screwdriver or a small pry bar and loosen the bolt with a spanner, after which you can remove the pulley itself. Now you can unscrew the roller, the timing belt tension will decrease, which will make it possible to unscrew and remove the support roller.

It is important not to lose the special washers that are located under the rollers (there is only one roller in the 8V engine). Disassembly is complete, the old timing belt can be removed.

Will a spark ignite a flame? Not always! — “Electrics” on DRIVE2

This modification will be useful in almost the entire line of VAZ injection engines, regardless of the type and composition of the ECM equipment and the ignition system in particular.

Just a word of caution - based on the results of comments and questions. ! ! ! Intervening and making changes to the electrical circuit of a car requires at least basic skills in electrical engineering and awareness of the actions being performed! ! ! If you feel that electrical circuits and car electrics are a little out of your profile, contact a more qualified person or an experienced auto electrician. This is in your own interests. And it will save you from unpredictable consequences.

Updates and additions are at the end of the article.
A detailed detailed analysis of changes in the ignition system after modification is described here: Part two.
Expanded results In order. Engine VAZ 21124. 1.6 liters, 16 valves. Individual ignition coils (or dual module with high-voltage wires). Everything is beautiful. And at first glance, it seems that everything is thought out, so it should work clearly and reliably. It turns out that this is far from true. This is a VAZ!

Customized ignition coils

Quite a lot has been written about ignition problems on this engine - about the choice of spark plugs, replacement and selection of individual ignition coils (hereinafter - IKZ).

So I came face to face with this problem.
The main manifestations are that the engine rotates unevenly at idle (speeds dance in the range of approximately 720-840 rpm), sluggish acceleration with twitching, increased consumption. In principle, most people understand that misfires are rare, but they do happen. The ECU doesn't see them directly. Last year, one coil clearly started to fail - the ECU saw it. I replaced it and it started to loosen up a bit. But still the engine was missing something. What a good spark! Here's more about this. From the versions: - replacing the spark plugs (the current NGK ones lasted only 7 tons km) with something more expensive from the “platinum, iridium” series, etc. - an expensive option. — changing the IKZ, and they are a little over 7 years old (the original ones are BOSHevsky, the mileage is 75 tkm) - it’s a little expensive (the cost of one IKZ is around 540 UAH ($22), and there are four of them) and there is no confidence that the problem will go away. — Mass air flow sensor, which is also not fun... — look into the ECU to check the serviceability of the keys, current-limiting resistors, etc. Acting at random or based on assumptions is not my method or my approach.
Reading the ECU showed: 1. Speed jumps 2. Injection time jumps, slightly 3. Reduction ratio jumps at idle (9-15 degrees) - a bit too much 4. Power supply, mass air flow sensor, TPS - everything is stable and beautiful.
5. ECU masses - everything is ideal (previous modifications and correct wiring were made) Verdict - unstable sparking.
The ICP parameters were measured - resistance of the primary winding, inductance, resistance of the secondary winding (taking into account the diode in the high-voltage circuit), checking for the absence of short circuits.

www.drive2.ru

Belt tension on 8-valve VAZ engines

Before tightening the timing belt on the VAZ, the following preparatory work should be performed:

Hang up and remove the right front wheel;
Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the front timing cover;
Remove the cover;
Use a 17 key to loosen the tension roller.

After this, you should check the drive marks. One of them, located on the crankshaft pulley, must coincide with the installation tab of the rear cover. At the same time, check the mark on the flywheel. It should be flush with the alignment mark on the block boss.

IMPORTANT! In reality, it is not always possible to achieve an exact match of marks. Therefore, the mechanism is adjusted with an error of +/- 1-2 mm. This does not have a noticeable effect on the driving performance of the car.

If the marks match, the question of how to tighten the timing belt can be considered resolved. Without removing the belt, it is necessary to move the weakened tension roller to the right so that the necessary tension occurs. After this, the roller is tightened tightly. To adjust the roller, a special “horned” key is used. If it is not available, you can use two Phillips screwdrivers, which are inserted into special holes on the roller.

If the marks do not match, the timing belt on the VAZ-2109 must be removed from the pulleys. After this, the pulleys themselves are individually set according to the marks. It is better to start reinstalling the belt from the rear branch. After installing it, the roller is tightened.

IMPORTANT! When installing the timing belt on a VAZ-2114 and other front-wheel drive models, the pulleys located according to the marks can shift by 1-2 teeth. If this happens, the marks should be set with an error to the left, which allows you to compensate for the offset. After installing the belt, the pulleys themselves will move into the required position.

It is necessary to finish tensioning and fixing the belt, and then manually turn the engine 2-3 turns by the crankshaft pulley. To do this, it is convenient to use a “19” head with an extension. The gearbox must be in neutral. If after turning the marks have not moved relative to each other, the procedure can be considered completed. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. The question of how to check the consistency of the tension should be answered. To do this, hold the strap between your thumb and index finger and turn it 90°. The technician must be able to do this, otherwise the belt is considered over-tensioned.

Selection options

In the automotive market you can find several companies that produce high-quality belts. Its length should be 742 mm.

When choosing a belt for 16-valve engines, you can pay attention to:

Factory belt from the Volzhsky Automobile Plant: Lada 21126-1006040. This is a durable belt made from quality material. It is not so expensive that you can spare money.
Lynx 137FL22 – timing belt from a Japanese manufacturer. On its inner side there are 137 serrated cuts. Since it is relatively inexpensive, it will have to be replaced more often than others. This does not mean that the quality of the material is bad. Japanese products have proven themselves well among car enthusiasts.
Belts from Bosch. This company has established itself in the market as the embodiment of quality and sustainability. The belts from the manufacturer turned out to be excellent and, as a result, they are deservedly popular among car enthusiasts. The recommended service life of the straps is fully met.
German ContiTech belt. Manufacturers tried to make the product durable by including polyamide fabric, fiberglass and synthetic rubber.
Optibelt. Belts from this company are also installed on 12-valve engines. They enjoy a good reputation among car enthusiasts due to their large resource. This is because cases of belt “death” are almost never recorded, and it serves its life due to the quality of the materials used.
Gates 5631XS heads the line of the most popular belts, the quality of which is at its best. This is a well-deserved sales leader. Gates belts are made of high-quality material, and therefore the risk of timing belt breakage on a VAZ with a 16-valve engine is reduced to zero.
BRT belts of domestic production. Experts believe that BRT is the Russian analogue of Gates. What is noteworthy is that the quality of a domestic belt is not inferior to a foreign product, but its price is an order of magnitude lower.

After how long to change the timing belt, we find out from the video from the AVTOTEMA TV channel.

VAZ 2112 tale about timing marks — DRIVE2

I’ll tell you an interesting incident that many masters do not pay attention to. The car is an unremarkable VAZ 2112 with a 16 valve engine 21124. The owner’s complaint is that it has already started to throttle, and has lost power. Before that, he went to many services where almost everything was changed for him, but things are still there. I approach my work with complete immersion, and if I don’t find the reason right away, I find it in an hour. But people, apparently because of the high dollar, go to have their cars repaired at local tire shops, which will inflate the tires and do diagnostics and chip their brains.

But let's move on to our sheep, hmm, more precisely one. The trouble with the car was quickly corrected; a quick inspection revealed 2 non-working ignition coils, as well as a fuel filter and a mesh in the tank. But after replacing everything, there was a residue that something was wrong. And the solution was to screw the pressure sensor into the first cylinder and see how everything is there. Those who know will understand what I mean, but those who don’t know just read what other methods there are for repairing your cars.

I screwed the sensor in like this and connected it to the oscilloscope

mega hood holding device

And what we see, and this is what we see

the area marked with a blue circle shows the spark moment with a red line, and the top of the hump is TDC. And what can you say, but the fact is that the spark is supplied after TDC, but should be before TDC, otherwise how can we ignite the mixture. From this it turns out that the drive pulley has turned (which is the green pulley). But that’s not all, with a green circle I highlighted the place where the exhaust valve opens, in our case two valves. For all normal engines, opening begins at 140 degrees after TDC, but for us (green small circle) at 125 degrees. The difference is 15 degrees and from experience I will say that this is equal to 1 tooth. Therefore, the timing belt is incorrect. After disassembly, a discrepancy between the timing marks and a broken groove on the drive disk and crankshaft gear was revealed. It’s a pity there are no photos; it was already dark; the car needed finishing. I replaced the crankshaft gear and the drive disc and the car started working so I said “I like it,” which only means one thing that everything is fine with the car.

By the way, here’s an oscillogram taken after the repair, I didn’t mark the location, but you can see the spark went to TDC, and the opening degrees of the exhaust became 140. I think if you compare it, you’ll see the before and after.

For ordinary car owners, this entry may not arouse interest, but the purpose of all this is to make it clear to the owners that everyone should mind their own business, a tire fitter should do the wheels, and diagnosticians should do the diagnostics.

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The result of the work

As a result, the timing drive should work without the slightest failure. If the tension or support roller makes a hum or whistle when the engine is running, the belt tension should be reduced by slightly turning the tension roller to the left.

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Correctly tensioning the timing belt on production vehicles is a simple procedure, but it requires certain special knowledge.

The algorithm of actions may vary slightly depending on the model of the power unit, and not on the make of the car. There are differences in the procedure for replacing and tensioning the belt on 8-valve and 16-valve engines. Read on to find out how to tighten the timing belt on both types of car hearts.

Four-cylinder eight-valve power units are more often found on:

VAZ-2108 - 2115;
VAZ-2110 - 2111.

Sixteen-valve engines are mainly used:

On VAZ-2112;
Lada Priora;
Lada Kalina;
Lada Largus;
Lada Granta;
Lada news.

A number of cars of the Samara 2 family were also equipped with 16-valve engines. In addition, such engines were also installed on models 2110-2111.

Replacing the VAZ 2110 alternator belt (8 valves with power steering)

Remove the power steering fluid reservoir.
Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the generator mounting nut. Please note
that on the VAZ 2110 with power steering there is no adjusting bolt; its work here is performed by the tension roller.

Clamp the tension roller in its extreme position and slide the part onto each of the pulleys, and then onto the tensioner roller. To do this you will have to make an effort.

Tensioning should be done when the part is on all rollers and pulleys. Using the handle of a hammer, the tension roller should be pulled back and fixed in the desired direction.

Replacing the VAZ 2110 alternator belt (16 valves with power steering)

In the place where the generator is located in a car without power steering, on a car with power steering there is a special pump, while the generator itself is located slightly higher.

The alternator drive belt passes through the following parts: the crankshaft pulley, the tension roller, the power steering pump shaft and again onto the crankshaft pulley.

The replacement procedure is somewhat complicated by the fact that the belt rotates around the left engine mount.

To replace a part, you must first unscrew the support, jack up the engine and only then remove it.

The left engine mount needs to be unscrewed and then the tensioner lowered.

The support bolt will not fall down because it rests on the power steering pulley.

We use a ratchet and a screwdriver to loosen the pulley.

We remove the pulley.

Raise the engine with a bottle jack without removing the crankcase protection. We insert the jack through a special hole, which is designed to drain the oil in the protection. To prevent the edge of the crankcase from being damaged by the jack, you can substitute a piece of wood.

If you lift the engine with a wheel jack, you will need to remove the protection from the crankcase. And before removing the part to be replaced, you must first remove the nut from the engine mount.
Now we pull out the belt through the support.

Advice!

Before purchasing an alternator belt for a VAZ 2110, you must make sure that there are 6 rivulets, the length of which is 1,115 millimeters. If you do not find this, as an alternative, you can purchase a similar part from a Lada Priora car.

After this, install the new alternator belt in the reverse order.

Timing is an abbreviation that stands for gas distribution mechanism of an internal combustion engine.

The gas distribution system of the VAZ 2112 (2110, 2111) engine consists of:

A camshaft (8-valve power unit) or two shafts (16-valve engine).
Mechanism drive belt.
Intake and exhaust valves.
Pushers, rods and rocker arms.
Other auxiliary elements.

The drive belt acts as a connecting element that transmits mechanical force from the crankshaft to the camshaft(s), thereby rotating the camshaft(s).

On a VAZ 2112 car, the timing belt is located in the front of the engine, under the cover. It is made of special (increasing service life) rubber. The inner surface of the belt is toothed for connection with pulleys, which also have a toothed surface.

Buying a belt today is not a problem; it is available in almost every Lada auto parts store. Its cost starts from 500 rubles. Depending on the characteristics (resistance to breakage). In addition, quite often in stores you can see ready-made kits for sale, which include a belt and tension rollers; their price starts from 1,200 rubles and above.

Replacement

hex key 5;
spanners or sockets for 15, 17;
tension roller wrench;
large flathead screwdriver.

1.We install the machine on a level area. Raise the hood, turn off the power to the on-board circuit by removing the ground terminal on the battery.

2. Unscrew all six bolts securing the timing case to the left of the cylinder head.

3.Disconnect the contacts on the crankshaft sensor.

4. We check the marks on the gears of both camshafts with the marks on the rear cover of the casing (triangular notches).

5. We also check that the mark on the flywheel crown matches. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry off the rubber plug located on the clutch housing under the thermostat. Under it there is a flywheel gear, on which the mark is located. It should coincide with the cut on the left side of the crankcase.

6. Move on to the crankshaft pulley mark. To do this, you need to loosen the tension on the generator belt by unscrewing the tensioner nut.

7. Having removed the belt from the pulley, we fix the current position of the flywheel by inserting a screwdriver between its crown and the crankcase.

8. Place the 17 key on the generator pulley bolt, unscrew it and remove it. Behind it there is a crankshaft gear with a mark, which should coincide in this position with the mark on the oil pump cover.

9. If any pairs of marks do not match, you need to turn off the gear, screw in the bolt securing the generator pulley, and, without removing the key from it, gradually turn the crankshaft until all the marks match.

10.When the marks are in place, remove the tension roller with a 15mm wrench, then the support roller, and remove the timing belt.

10. We install new rollers, install a new belt, starting with the crankshaft pulley.

11.Tighten the belt by rotating the tension roller clockwise using a special wrench (or fixing it with curved pliers) until the tension is optimal. You can check the degree of tension without the help of tools. It is enough to grasp the belt in the area between the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft pulleys and rotate it horizontally. The optimal tension will be at which you can turn it with your fingers no more than 90 degrees.

12. Installation is carried out in reverse order.

13.Pull out the screwdriver from the crankcase hole.

Introduction

1. Gas distribution mechanism (GDM) - a mechanism for timely distribution of the intake of the combustible mixture and the exhaust of exhaust gases in the cylinders of an internal combustion engine.

2. It is carried out by closing and opening the pistons of the cylinder purge windows in two-stroke engines, or by opening and closing the intake and exhaust valves (in four-stroke engines), driven by a camshaft (camshaft) and a cam mechanism. The camshaft has rigid synchronization of rotation with the crankshaft, implemented using a gear, toothed belt or chain transmission.

3. As a rule, on highly accelerated engines, a break or slippage of the timing belt or chain leads to engine failure due to the impact of the pistons on the open valves.

Purpose, devices and principle of operation of the timing belt of the VAZ 2112 car

The gas distribution mechanism (another name is the gas distribution system , the abbreviated name is timing ) is designed to ensure timely supply of air or a fuel-air mixture to the engine cylinders (depending on the type of engine) and release of exhaust gases from the cylinders. These functions are implemented through the timely opening and closing of valves.

The most common four-stroke piston internal combustion engines use valve gas distribution mechanisms , so the timing device is considered using its example.

The gas distribution mechanism has the following general device:

· camshaft drive.

Gas distribution diagram

mechanism

The valves directly supply air (fuel-air mixture) to the cylinders and release exhaust gases. The valve consists of a disc and a rod. On modern engines, the valves are located in the cylinder head, and the place where the valve comes into contact with it is called the seat. There are intake and exhaust valves. To better fill the cylinders, the diameter of the intake valve plate is usually larger than the exhaust valve.

Replacing the belt drive

First, about the tools that we will need when carrying out repair work:

hexagon;
socket heads;
ring and open-end wrenches;
screwdrivers with different tips;
roller tensioner.

1. The repair must begin by placing the car on a flat surface. The hood opens and the left terminal is disconnected from the battery. This is how the car is de-energized. 2. Now you need to remove the timing system housing. . 3. On the crankshaft sensor, you need to disconnect the contacts and check the location of the marks. These marks are located on the crankshaft gears and the inside of the casing.

4. The marks on the flywheel crown should also converge. To trace their coincidence, you need to unscrew the plug on the crankcase. The mark is on the flywheel gear. If it matches the mark (cut) located on the crankcase, then everything is fine.

5. Loosen the tension on the belt drive and check the mark located on the crankshaft. We fix the flywheel by installing a screwdriver between the crankcase and the crown. 6. Unscrew the crankshaft pulley. We check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft gear and the oil pump. 7. Now you can change the belt. To do this, you first need to remove the tension roller. Then the belt is removed. 8. We tighten the new gear. The tension roller rotates clockwise. This is easier to do with a special key, which should be prepared in advance. If there is no key, then you can use pliers for this, the ends of which are curved. The tension needs to be adjusted until it is optimal. 9. Now we collect everything from the opposite. Don't forget to remove the screwdriver from the crankcase.