How to set the ignition of a Prior 16 valve engine

The VAZ 21126 power unit was designed for the Lada Priora; it became the base unit for this car. On the Priora, this engine has 16 valves in the cylinder head, which makes it possible to increase its fuel efficiency and power. The mechanism is driven by a toothed belt. This made it possible to reduce noise and weight of the power unit, and simplified engine maintenance. For trouble-free operation of the engine, it is necessary to change the timing belt in a timely manner. For its correct installation, there are marks on the rear casing, camshaft pulleys, and flywheel.

How to check the VAZ-2114 DPKV for serviceability

To check the crankshaft position sensor, it must be removed and inspected for mechanical damage. If dirt is found on the sensor, the part should be thoroughly cleaned.

You can check the DPKV using an ohmmeter. A working sensor has a coil resistance of 550-750 Ohms. A multimeter is used to check the inductance of the winding, but you cannot be sure that the DPKV is working properly, even if all the readings coincide with the permissible parameters. In this case, the state of the magnetic core is not taken into account in any way, so an oscilloscope is best suited for diagnostics.

You can check the DPKV in any way, but it would be more logical to simply replace it immediately with a new one. If the cause is not in the sensor, you need to look further for the cause of the malfunction. The old DPKV can be put into storage; it will come in handy. The crankshaft sensor on a VAZ is quite inexpensive, so is it worth the hassle of measuring resistance and inductance? The price of DPKV ranges from 250-350 rubles, and on the road a spare sensor can be very helpful.

It's no secret that if the crankshaft position sensor fails, the car will only go further on a tow truck or in tow. The engine will simply be impossible to start, and the sensor cannot be repaired, only replacement. The sensor is not cheap, so before buying a new one, I recommend making sure that the cause of the malfunction is the DPKV, and not something else, or just a jamb in the wiring and connection chip of the sensor. If the diagnostics show that it is he who is to blame, we go to the nearest auto parts store and purchase a sensor, it looks like this:

To replace the DPKV on VAZ-2110, 2111 and 2112 we will need the following tool:

Socket wrench at "10".

A set of feeler gauges to set the gap.

Well, the new crankshaft sensor itself.

The sensor is located in close proximity to the crankshaft pulley. So, remove the block from the sensor by prying it with a screwdriver or any other handy tool. (you can just use your hands).

Then we take the prepared 10mm socket or open-end wrench and use it to unscrew the bolt that secures the DPKV to the engine.

Then we put the removed sensor aside, take a new one and install it in place of the old one, it is impossible to make a mistake during installation, it is installed in only one position. We screw back the sensor mounting bolt and take our set of probes. We will use them to adjust or simply check whether we have the required gap for the new sensor. The correct distance from the crankshaft pulley teeth to the sensor is 1 mm. plus or minus 0.41 mm.

If everything is correct, put the chip back in place and try to start the engine. If the distance is greater, we look where the jamb is and what got under the sensor, maybe just dirt. I have not yet encountered problems with the fact that the distance is less. Usually everything becomes normal right away.

Reference information: The CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CPSE) supplies the controller with a signal of the rotation speed and position of the crankshaft. This signal is a series of repeating electrical voltage pulses generated by the sensor as the crankshaft rotates. Based on these pulses, the controller controls the injectors and the ignition system. The DPKV is installed on the oil pump cover at a distance of about 1+0.4 mm from the crankshaft drive disk (pulley). The crankshaft pulley has 58 teeth arranged around its circumference. The teeth are equidistant and spaced at 6° intervals. To generate a “synchronization pulse,” two teeth on the pulley are missing. As the crankshaft rotates, the teeth of the disc change the magnetic field of the sensor, creating induced voltage pulses. Based on the synchronization pulse from the crankshaft position sensor, the controller determines the position and speed of the crankshaft and calculates the moment of activation of the injectors and the ignition module. The DPKV wire is protected from interference by a screen connected to ground through the controller. DPKV is the most important of all sensors; if it is faulty, the engine will not work. It is recommended to always carry this sensor with you. Diagnosis of DPKV is described here. The PCV sensor is a polar device; if the wiring is broken, it should be connected observing the polarity. In “reverse” switching, the engine will not start.

Crankshaft marks

Installing the camshafts correctly in the desired position does not mean that this is enough to start the engine. Lada Priora has 16 valves, so if you do not synchronize the operation of all engine mechanisms, several of them will be damaged. To prevent this from happening, they must open or close at strictly defined times. The timing mechanism parts are driven from the crankshaft. The crankshaft has a gear at the output, the rotation of which is transmitted through a toothed belt to the remaining parts of the timing mechanism.

This gear is fixed on the crankshaft with a key; it will be impossible to install it in any other position. To correctly match the position of the pistons and valves relative to each other, there is an installation mark on it. It is located on the outside of the pulley in the upper part of the crown. Usually it is found opposite the tooth in the form of a slot, notch, or conical hole. Sometimes this requires wiping the working area of the pulley with a rag. The generator set drive pulley, which is removed from the crankshaft, may interfere with visibility.

Maintenance frequency of car generator bearings

When servicing the unit, you need to know which bearings are on the generator, and which race of each of them is pressed into place. To extend the time between overhauls, bearings are lubricated at the time of installation at the factory or when replaced by the user. It is believed that this amount is sufficient for the entire life of the rolling elements.

The frequency of bearing replacement is determined by ear:

if the generator is noisy, it means the clip has worn out;
Before jamming, the generator bearing hums for quite a long time, so the owner usually has enough time not to let this happen.

Design features of the generator are:

one bearing is called the front bearing, since it is pressed into the corresponding (front) generator cover by the outer race;
the second one is put on the shaft with tension on the reverse side, called the rear one, and is located near the commutator group;
Before changing standard rolling consumables, you need to prepare a special tool;
To get to the rolling parts, you will first have to remove the generator and then completely disassemble it.

For example, the front bearing can be knocked out, then a new rolling element can be installed in the mounting hole without a puller

It is important that the external dimensions match. It will not be possible to pull the rear bearing off the shaft in this way; a puller will be required.

But you can put on a new standard product by tapping a hammer on a sleeve of a suitable size or an old bearing.

Benefits you shouldn't ignore

Lada 2105 Bright White 15 R Logbook Installation of steering column switches for Chevrolet Niva ignition switch for VAZ 2110

Along with optimizing his car, the owner, with a new ignition, additionally receives a number of special advantages.

Among them:

1. A real opportunity to customize your own engine for any attractive fuel for the car.

2. If you have a car with HBO, an increase in traction and overall power of the car.

3. Complete absence of detonations and knocking noises when picking up speed, even when less than ideal fuel is available.

4. In gasoline-powered cars, fuel burns out much faster, which reduces fuel consumption by an order of magnitude.

5. In cold weather, the car starts much faster and easier.

6. The electronic system does not require total control on the part of the owner, since control is assigned to the built-in display.

7. The machine can be converted and an additional toggle switch can be added to easily switch to one type of fuel or another.

8. With a new type of ignition, the owner receives new options; important parameters are kept at a specifically set level.

9. The starter turns off on its own after the engine starts.

10. You can control the ventilation of the cooling system.

Checking and adjusting the tension of the timing belt.

If you want your belt to last long and trouble-free, it is important to maintain its tension in the correct position. To do this, periodically test the tension. Pay special attention to the first tension of the new belt. If the belt is loose, the lateral load on the teeth increases, which greatly accelerates their wear. In some cases, if the belt is very loose, there is a high probability of the belt teeth moving relative to the pulleys. This can lead, at best, to engine instability and loss of power. In the worst case, it will lead to expensive repairs. To check the tension, perform the following steps:

1. Unscrew the 5 bolts securing the protective timing cover and move the cover to the side.

2. Press the timing belt exactly in the center between the camshaft pulleys with a force of 100 Newtons (10 kgf). The belt deflection from the horizontal position should be no more than 7 millimeters. Modern tension rollers are also provided with a tension control mechanism. To check the quality of the tension, make sure that mark A on the outer part of the roller coincides with protrusion B.3. To adjust the tension, slightly unscrew the roller mounting bolt and, by rotating the roller, achieve complete alignment of the marks described above (see figure)

4. Secure the tension by tightening the roller mounting bolt.

5. Reassemble all remaining parts in the opposite order of removal.

Pinout of the instrument panel VAZ 2170 Priora

The layout of the instrument panel is made in a simplified version to facilitate the replacement and installation of replacement parts. The decoding of the wiring connections at the factory terminals looks like this:

1 – EUR;
2 – emergency signal control;
3 – oil pressure sensor;
4 – indicator light for turning on the hand brake;
5 – immobilizer control unit;
6 – control unit for airbags;
7 – external lighting of the car;
8-9 – direction indicators;
10 – control of the combustible mixture injection system;
11 – disabling the front passenger SB;
12 – indication of seat belt buckles;
13 – operation of the brake system;
14 – reset button of the steering column switch;
15 – indication of the expansion tank of the brake system;
16 – ABS control unit;
17 – headlight high beam position switch;
18 – dashboard lighting;
19 – mass;
20 – receiving power from the battery terminal;
21 – ignition switch connector;
22 – fuel consumption sensor;
23-24 – BC mode switch;
25-26 – temperature sensor “overboard”;
27 – remaining fuel in the tank;
28 – speedometer;
29 – antifreeze temperature indication;
30 – tachometer;
31 – diagnostic terminal;
32 – power supply from generator (L).

How to understand that the ignition is late or early

Ignition of the working mixture of fuel and air in the cylinders with advance or delay leads to certain malfunctions in the operation of the engine. The list of main signs by which you can identify an incorrectly installed ignition includes:

An incorrect ignition angle can manifest itself in the form of characteristic pops that are heard in the exhaust system, carburetor, etc. It is quite obvious that further operation of an internal combustion engine with a broken ignition timing can lead to more serious engine damage, especially if persistent detonation occurs.

The principle of operation, what it consists of and the main malfunctions

The generator converts the mechanical energy coming from the engine into electrical energy. The principle of operation and its design are the same for all cars. The difference lies only in the quality, dimensions and location of the connecting nodes.

What it consists of:

Pulley - transmits mechanical energy through the belt from the engine to the generator.
The body is presented in the form of two covers. The starter is attached to them and the rotor supports are placed. The back cover contains external terminals for connecting to electrical equipment, a voltage regulator, a rectifier and a brush assembly.
Stator - produces power. It is made of steel sheets and has the shape of a pipe. A three-phase winding is installed in the stator slots.
The rotor is the moving part of the unit. When the engine starts, the rotor begins to rotate, and voltage is supplied to its exciting winding from the battery. The steel core becomes electromagnetic, creating an alternating magnetic field when rotated.
Voltage regulator - maintains voltage stability in the on-board network when the ambient temperature and rotor speed changes.
Assembly with rectifier diodes
Diode module cover
The brush assembly is a removable structure where brushes are installed that interact with the rotor rings.

Marks on the flywheel

To reduce inertial masses and make it possible to start the engine with a starter, a flywheel is installed at the rear end of the crankshaft. It can only be locked in one position, so there is also an installation mark on the flywheel. Finding it is not so easy and inconvenient. The protective housing of the clutch mechanism has a rectangular cutout, which is closed with a rubber plug. It can be easily removed with pliers; putting it back will be a little more difficult. In the hole that appears after removing the rubber plug, a conical cutout on the body will be visible.

Now, rotating in any available way, the engine crankshaft is combined with this cutout, a notch on the flywheel in the form of a slot. This is usually done to set the piston of the first cylinder to top dead center. If the notches on the flywheel and its housing coincide, check whether the other reference points of the engine mechanisms match. If this does not happen, you need to turn the crankshaft one more revolution. It is worth remembering the fact that to complete a full revolution of the camshafts, the crankshaft rotates twice.

Self-replacement

Before changing the ignition switch on a Priora, you must take into account that this operation will be more labor-intensive than a similar process when working with classic VAZ car models.
A motorist can complete this job in an hour. He also needs to stock up on tools:

Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver with a similar bit;
hammer 0.5 kg;
a pointed chisel or punch with a blade width of 8–10 mm;
hex head 10;
ratchet equipment with middle extension.

Due to the fact that the repairs are supposed to be carried out in dark, cramped conditions, it is worth thinking about local comfortable lighting. Some find it convenient to work with a car lamp equipped with a hook or magnet for hanging in any conditions.

Some motorists are accustomed to using a bright headlamp with LEDs for such purposes.

Where to repair a VAZ engine

How to remove the ignition switch on a Priora

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to remove the terminals from the battery. Experts recommend using a proven algorithm:

At the initial stage, you will need to get rid of the casing that hides the ins and outs of the steering column. The operation is simple and requires only a screwdriver or screwdriver to unscrew threaded hardware. The second stage involves unscrewing the special bolts. They are manufactured with tear-off caps and are disposable materials. This design approach provides a certain degree of security, minimizing the possibility of unauthorized access to starting the car. A chisel is used to unscrew them.

It is important to remember that they have a right-hand thread. Having torn the hardware from its place, you can finally get rid of them using long-nose pliers (curved or straight)

Remove the clamp. Special bolts held the clamp installed on the steering column

The latter is installed to hold the lock. The dismantling work is completed by disconnecting the power plugs in order to have full access to working with the lock.

Next, we purchase a new lock with an immobilizer and relearn it if necessary. Usually you can do it the first time. In some situations, transponders in keys are changed so that the standard protection can recognize electronic signals and unlock in a timely manner.

New lock installation stage

For installation, you will need the bolts used in breakaway fasteners. When a certain force is created, the edges will break off, leaving a head that the classic key will not take. As a result, the clamps will be tightened sufficiently tightly and at the same time receive additional protection.

All four bolts are screwed in the same way with the edges breaking off. The estimated cost of the castle is about 1000 rubles. Most often, special bolts may be included in the kit so as not to purchase them separately.

It is important to know that it is not recommended to reuse old torn hardware to attach the clamp. A replacement service will cost another few hundred. In the end, by doing everything yourself, you can save money.

In the end, by doing everything yourself, you can save money.

A replacement service will cost another few hundred. As a result, by doing everything yourself, you can save money.

Do I need to put fender liners on the front?

Conclusion

The motorist can independently carry out all operations without outside help. The main thing is to have a lock and tools available.

Report on replacing the ignition switch on a Lada Priora

So, to get to the lock mount, we first need to remove the steering column cover. After this, this entire structure becomes available to us. Now, using a sharp chisel, you need to tear off all the bolts securing the lock, since the caps there are without edges.

When all 4 bolts are broken, you can finally unscrew them by hand, or using long-nose pliers, as shown more clearly in the photo.
When they are all unscrewed, you can remove the lock from the steering shaft, since there is nothing else holding it.
And in order to completely release the ignition switch, you need to disconnect the two plugs with wires.

We install the new part in the reverse order, having previously purchased a new one. The price of a lock on a Priora is no more than 1,800 rubles complete with keys and door cylinders. But you can buy the same one at a disassembly for half the price, although it is no worse in quality.

To install, you need to buy new 4 bolts with tear-off caps. They twist until the caps break off.

The photo above shows an example of tens, but the meaning does not change. As a result, the caps come off like this, as shown in the photo.

What tools are needed to replace the belt?

To properly replace the timing belt, you need a set of the following tools:

classic pliers for removing circlips;
wrench for 10, 13, 15, 17 mm;
5 mm hex key or T-30 star;
a set of standard keys;
The set with rollers and belt includes a special adjustment key;
Screwdriver Set;
roller tension device;
office proofreader for accurate installation.

When performing these works, installing the Priora on the pit will not be necessary. All work on changing the timing belt is carried out in the engine compartment area.

Priora timing belt replacement

If you have an additional air conditioner installed, the belt itself will need to be longer. The air conditioner will also need to be unscrewed. Otherwise, it will interfere with the removal of the protective cover. It is advisable to begin work with a complete package of all necessary tools.

Ignition and engine control system

General information

These engines are equipped with an electronic distributed phased injection system: fuel is supplied by injectors alternately in accordance with the operating order of the cylinders. To do this, a disc with a slot is installed on the camshaft pulley and a camshaft position sensor (phase sensor) is installed on the cylinder head.

The ignition system consists of individual ignition coils installed in spark plug wells on the cylinder head cover and spark plugs. The ignition coils are controlled by the engine's electronic control unit (ECU).

Removing and installing the throttle valve assembly

For this operation you will need the following tools: screwdriver, 13 mm wrench.

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Disconnecting the negative battery terminal

2. Remove the decorative engine cover (see the corresponding section).

3. Drain the coolant (see the corresponding section).

4. Remove the throttle cable clamp.

5. Remove the throttle cable.

6. Loosen the air duct clamp.

7. Loosen the crankcase gas pipe clamp.

Belt faults

Like any other car with a timing belt drive, the Priora belt may have the following malfunctions:

Cracking and delamination of the timing belt working surface is a consequence of:

long-term operation;
frequent temperature changes;
contact with oil or coolant;
malfunction of the water pump (pump);
malfunction of the tension or support rollers.

These same factors, as well as improper tension adjustment, can cause belt deformation and breakage.

How to replace spark plugs on a VAZ 2170-VAZ 2172?

Note! As we said earlier, in order to change a spark plug you will need a special spark plug wrench that is suitable for 16 valve cars, and a special one is needed only because it is equipped with a magnetic insert that will hold the spark plug when you unscrew it and remove it from the hole, respectively, without a magnetic one inserting a candle will be more difficult for you to get!

Removal: 1) At the very beginning of the operation, remove the screen from the engine so that it does not interfere with further work, since it covers most of the engine, and about how to remove it, read the article called: “Replacing a car engine screen.”

2) Then from each ignition module (There are four modules in total, each goes separately to each spark plug, the modules were also shown with arrows in the second photo from above) disconnect the wire blocks (For clarity, the photo below shows only one ignition module, and its block indicated by a red arrow) that are connected to them, these pads are held on clamps by bending them, the pad can be disconnected from the module, and after this operation, pick up the key and use it to unscrew all the nuts that secure the module to the car engine (One nut securing one module is indicated by a blue arrow).

Note! When the fastening nut is unscrewed, remove the module indicated by the blue arrow from the hole in which it is located and then put it aside and make sure that no water gets on it, otherwise it may quickly fail when connected!

3) Now that all the modules have been unscrewed and removed, pick up a special spark plug wrench and use it to unscrew all four spark plugs (the spark plugs are located deep in the holes from which you removed the modules).

Note! When you are about to remove the spark plug, and if suddenly you do not manage to do this, then pick up any ignition module and put it in its place (the module must go all the way into the spark plug itself and lock onto it), so that’s when the module will be fixed on the spark plug, pull it and thereby you will remove the spark plug from the car!

Something else you need to know, many of you have already heard, or maybe not, that any malfunction with the engine can be determined by the spark plug, so I suggest you read the article entitled: “Diagnostics of spark plugs”, everything is in detail in it scheduled!

4) Well, to finish the removal, let’s add a few words about the spark plug, namely, when you remove the spark plug and determine by its appearance that everything is in order with it and it does not need to be replaced, then clean the spark plug itself from dirt, using a special sandblaster for this a device with fine-grained abrasive material, I will note the fact that you are unlikely to have this device in your garage or at home, so travel to car services and find where such a device is used, or simply wrap the spark plug back without cleaning it with anything.

Note! By the way, you cannot clean the spark plug with sandpaper or a metal brush, because all the dust from it will fly onto the spark plug electrodes and if the dust gets on the central electrode, it can easily cause a spark to leak, thereby sometimes tuning up your engine!

Installation: 1. When installing a spark plug, remember the fact that it is installed in the reverse order of removal, but if you are installing the same spark plug again, then using a special probe, check what gap you have between the electrodes, it should be no less and not more than 1.00-1.15. (see photo 1)

Note! If suddenly the gap is different, then in this case take the same special feeler gauge and use it to adjust this gap, the gap is adjusted only by bending or straightening the side electrode of the spark plug, but take into account only the side electrode, the central electrode (It is indicated by a red arrow in photo 2, but it in the photo above it’s hard to see, so you understand, it goes into the spark plug itself, and the side electrode comes from the spark plug and it’s not located in it) you don’t need to touch it, because if you even accidentally get on it, it can lead to because the spark plug will fail, so be careful!

2. And one more thing you should know, namely that the spark plug must first be screwed in by hand and only then it must be tightened using a wrench; the tightening torque for the spark plugs is 30.7-39.0 (3.1-4.0 kg).

It will be useful: This is sva with 542 hp. f-pace from jaguar

Additional video clip: If you are interested in more detail about how to change spark plugs in cars, then check out the instructive video clip that is located just below and which gives a visual representation of how a spark plug on a car is replaced.

Set the timing marks correctly - otherwise you will bend the valves!

The VAZ-21124 engine has a special feature: no matter how its pulleys are turned, it does not bend its valves. With the 21120 engine (16 v 1.5 l) such jokes will not work! If the pulley positions are not too far off, try putting on the belt and turning the mechanism to the “TDC 1 and 4” position. From now on, always use the following instructions:

The crankshaft is set to the required position by checking the mark on the generator drive pulley (photo 1) or on the crankshaft pulley (photo 2);

Alternator drive pulley and crankshaft pulley

Exhaust and intake shaft pulley

In theory, on the VAZ-2112, marking is carried out the same way, no matter what engine we are talking about. Here are photos for engine 21120.

What it looks like in reality and in the instructions

Take the time to find the inspection window on the gearbox housing. There is another mark under the plug.

The last step is optional. And they do it so as not to redo all the work “from scratch.”

The number of belt teeth between the “upper pulley” marks is exactly 16;
The mark on the crankshaft pulley sometimes breaks off - use the control method “1” (photo 1) or “3” (lower photo).

Updates for VAZ-21124

On a 1.6 engine, all actions are performed in the same way as described above. There is one exception - the generator drive pulley is aligned according to the mark on the casing (see photo).

Generator drive pulley, motor 21124

However, if this mark is not there, use the proven method: 20 teeth are counted from the DPKV body. Instead of the 21st there should be a “pass”.

The timing pulleys can be rotated as you like - the pistons will not touch the valves in any case. Compare what the pistons of two different engines look like and it will become clear what we are talking about.

Two different 16 valves

For those who don't understand anything

The number of teeth on the crankshaft pulley is 21, on the camshaft pulleys – 42. When the crankshaft rotates 360 degrees, the camshafts rotate 180. In general, a complete engine cycle consists of two crankshaft revolutions (720 degrees).

In theory, you can use an alternative configuration method. Let the camshaft pulley marks point straight down. Then the mark on the crankshaft pulley should face up (TDC 1 and 4).

If there is no fixing device, you can make it yourself. Even a puller for suspension springs will do (see photo).

Replacing spark plugs - step-by-step instructions.

Good day to all. Almost every car enthusiast has at least once replaced spark plugs or glow plugs on their own. We described replacing glow plugs here. Spark plugs are the most important element in the operation of any car. Their purpose is to ignite the fuel-air mixture in the combustion chamber.

The spark plug is the final element on which the entire car ignition system operates. Spark plugs are consumables and require periodic replacement during operation. This article will provide information on how to do this yourself and avoid mistakes.

When to change spark plugs

To understand the specific timing of replacing spark plugs, you need to refer to the technical regulations of the car on which this operation must be performed. This is done due to the fact that depending on the make and year of manufacture of the car, the requirements vary.

What's wrong with the weather and how does it affect spark plugs? You ask. Very simple. Partial dust, sand, dirt, water from the road gets onto the engine. In the process of replacing spark plugs, we observe sand in the wells, oil that flows from under the gasket (Ford), and even water (from above from under the plastic where the wipers are). It's different on different cars. Since the engines are located differently.

How to change spark plugs

Everyone knows this very well, but still many neglect the requirements for replacing spark plugs. Perhaps the rush prevents everything from being done efficiently. Or they do not represent the full responsibility of the matter.

Spark plugs are changed when the engine is cool. It must be taken into account that spark plugs operate at high temperatures, so if you do not cool the car after driving, there is a risk of burns.

In addition, since the cylinder head is aluminum and the spark plugs are steel, they have different expansion coefficients when heated, and a plug that is unscrewed from a hot engine can bite.

The spark plugs really bite and they break off or come out of the cylinder head together with the threads. When unscrewing long spark plugs, they turn 1.2 turns and get snagged. Short candles most often envelop the candle thread.

Preparing to replace spark plugs

Before removing the coils (or wires) and the spark plug itself, it is necessary to thoroughly blow off the working surface so that the dust and sand that accumulate on it do not get inside the cylinder and damage the cylinder mirror and elements of the piston group. This must be done with a professional, powerful compressor.

If there is no compressor, but you need to unscrew the spark plugs, then find one (for example, a tire shop, there is always compressed air there). I do not consider the case when replacement is required in an open field.

If you unscrew the spark plugs without cleaning and blowing out the spark plug well, sand will fall into the cylinder. In engines that are tilted, when starting, the piston will rub sand against the cylinder wall as an abrasive. It will be a bully.

Some will say that this is nonsense. But such cases do occur. The human factor is present everywhere.

How to tighten spark plugs correctly

Go ahead. Let's imagine that you have completed all the preparatory operations and the spark plugs have come out. Great. You are well done. Now you need to screw in the new spark plugs.

First of all, you need to carefully inspect all the new spark plugs one by one. There should be no chips on the ceramic insulator, the threads should be clean, good, and there should be no other externally visible damage.

Carefully place the spark plug (without throwing it towards the spark plug well, so as not to damage the insulator) into the well.
Fit the spark plug by hand. In case of biting, go through the thread in the head with a tap (if possible). Be careful not to drop the tap into the cylinder.
Tighten the spark plug to the required torque using a torque wrench.

If you put a load on the spark plug that exceeds the recommended norm, the sealing ring will be overtightened, overheating will occur and there will be a possibility of destruction of the spark plug, which may simply break.

It is also possible to strip the threads of the cylinder head, which will require an expensive and complex repair. Thus, tightening the candles is an extremely important point and doing it “by eye” is highly not recommended, even though this rule may be neglected even in some services.

Thank you all for your attention. I hope that this information will be useful to all those who are interested in it. subscribe to the channel

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Why change the timing belt on a Priora

Why this belt is needed, most likely, does not need to be explained. In general, there is probably no need to explain why it should be changed, however, there are inquisitive minds who need a lot of information simply for general development. And with that, let's get started.

So, the belt drives the gas distribution mechanism, namely the camshaft. This, in turn, lifts the valves, which move towards the piston at the moment of the exhaust stroke. But they get into the saddle in time, so nothing bad happens. If the timing phases are disrupted, and it is precisely this disruption that occurs when the belt breaks, it may happen that the camshaft stands in one position when, for example, the intake valve in the first cylinder is open.

The moment the piston goes up, it will simply bend the valve. Repairing a domestic car in this case will cost about 15 thousand rubles, while for repairing a foreign car head you will have to pay from 30 thousand of our wooden ones. Therefore, it is imperative to monitor the belt, or better yet just the mileage. The factory regulates a gap of 70,000 kilometers for this unit. There are fellows who have driven more than a hundred, but the 127 engine bends the valves, just like it bends.

How to train a Lada Priora key

Remote control keys serve vehicle owners to quickly control the locking and unlocking of the car lock. Also, in cars of the Lada Priora modification, the keys help control the super-locking of doors, turning on and off the alarm system that responds to touch and vibration. Other useful functions of the remote control include controlling the trunk lid lock and raising and lowering the windows. In addition, it can be used as an electronic code key for the APS-6 immobilizer, which is a standard anti-theft device on the Lada Priora, as well as modifications of Kalina and Grant.

The delivery set includes two unprogrammed keys, as well as a “master key”, which is designed to “train” the entire system.

Structurally, the remote control key is mounted on the blade of the key designed to turn on the ignition of the car. Via wireless communication it provides control of the following nodes:

signals are sent via the radio channel to the electrical package control unit and the door module on the driver's side;
via a transponder channel, communication is carried out with the immobilizer control unit APS-6 or APS-6.1 and the electrical package controller.

Initially, the key is unprogrammed, and for its further operation it is necessary to carry out certain manipulations. First of all, it should be “trained”, using a coded, so-called red immobilizer key, after which it can be used by the car owner.

It must be remembered that two independent remote control keys can be used simultaneously with one security system.

Weak link: pump, roller, belt

The reasons for repairing the timing unit are most often broken bearings of the tensioner roller and pump, as well as the timing belt. The pump also has to be changed if the seal of the structure is lost, causing loss of coolant. To replace it, you will have to remove the camshaft pulleys and the rear protective cover of the casing. Remove the generator roller tensioner fasteners (3 bolts), unscrew the 6 bolts (10mm) securing the casing, two of which are located under the camshaft pulleys. After removing the casing, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the pump.

Types and differences of VAZ ignition coils

A car's gasoline engine operates by burning fuel. To ensure ignition, an electric spark is required, which is formed between the electrodes of the glow plug. They have a small gap that the spark must overcome. This is feasible when high voltage (tens of thousands of volts) is applied to the spark plug.

The vehicle's on-board system is not designed for such loads, and the equipment that supplies electricity is not capable of producing such values.

To solve this problem, a coil is introduced into the car's ignition system, creating a high voltage. A component of the vehicle's ignition system converts low voltage to high voltage (depending on the characteristics of the part from 6-12 V to 35,000 V). The tasks performed by the coil are determined by the structural features of the element. It consists of primary and secondary windings, which are housed in an insulated housing.

Attention! If malfunctions occur, it is recommended to check all engine components: from the valves and cylinder block to the ignition coil or module

The basis of the operation of the gas distribution mechanism

When the mixture is compressed, a spark enters the working cylinder and the mixture explodes, pushing the piston. He pushes the connecting rod, the connecting rod pushes the crankshaft. Everything is known. The valves, by timely opening and closing, ensure tightness in the cylinder at the right moment and free inlet and outlet in other cycles. The camshaft controls these devices by pressing the valve mechanism with its cams. The Priora engine has 16 valves. They are controlled by two camshafts. And the camshafts are driven by the crankshaft via a timing belt.

To ensure that the valve timing matches and the drive is installed correctly, special marks are applied.

Timing timing marking points

They are applied by the manufacturer in several places and are divided into movable and stationary:

On the body of the Priora engine
On camshaft gears.
On the crankshaft gear.
On the engine flywheel.

Now in more detail about these tags.

On the engine body of a VAZ 2170

Here the mating marks are installed in three places. They are immovable:

On the lip of the oil pump housing.
On the flywheel housing.
Marks on the plastic protection of the Priora timing belt

The first two types of marks are intended for mating the crankshaft.

That is, the risks on the gear and on the flywheel must coincide with them. The crankshaft drive gear is located in the oil pressure pump housing. This is a slot in the metal skirt that half-encircles the gear from above. It is clearly visible in normal lighting. Sometimes it can be “bombarded” with oil and dust. Then you need to wipe this place with a rag, and everything will be visible.

There is a special arrow installed on the flywheel housing, in the viewing window in the starter area. It must be taken into account that the top dead center is determined only by the average of the three marks.

Marks on the timing case

In fact, they are not located on the motor block, but the plastic casing is very firmly attached to it. Therefore, these notches are referred to as marks on the motor. These are triangular indentations in the upper section of the casing. They are perfectly visible and easy to use. Access to them opens immediately as soon as the outer part of the casing is removed.

If carbon deposits appear

After 15 thousand kilometers, it is recommended to re-inspect the condition of the spark plugs. Sometimes brownish-yellow carbon deposits can be observed on the surface of the electrodes. This indicates the use of fuel with an octane rating that is not suitable for the vehicle. When the spark plug overheats, the carbon deposits will turn white. Erosion is also possible. The reason may be early ignition timing. Sometimes the candle is simply not screwed on tightly. Also, with early ignition, the electrode itself melts. This spark plug is for replacement only. Which spark plugs are better for Priora 16 cl., see above.

If the car is moving, you should check the part with a tester for functionality. Typically, a gun with a metal tip and cap is used for this. The tip is touched to the thread of the spark plug, and the cap is placed on the terminal for the armor wires. When you pull the trigger, a spark should occur between the electrodes. If it is not there, the element needs to be replaced.

Preparatory operations

First, disconnect the negative battery terminal, remove the engine protection and drain the antifreeze.

Engine 16 valves Priora.

Remove the protective cover, not forgetting to disconnect the absorber purge valve.

Tuning and replacement of the center console on Lada Priora and Kalina

Modern versions of cars are supplied to the market with a restyled version of the tidy. Here, a relatively old generation, navigation and a liquid crystal display appeared. Installing an updated shield requires the following steps.

Selecting the required version

There are only two types of updated designs with and without a CAN bus. The nuance is that the versions are completely identical in appearance. In order to find out which variety is suitable, you need to check the production date of the car. Machines manufactured before 06, 2012 are not equipped with this technology. The article numbers for the new devices with navigation are as follows:

2170-3801010-50 without CAN;
2170-3801010-60 with CAN.

Also in the kit you need to purchase a navigation antenna and a steering column switch of the appropriate design.

Installation nuances

For Lada Kalina versions, all devices are not equipped with a CAN module. Also the old generation of Priora. Here the installation is carried out without modifications or nuances - just snap out the old panel, remove the terminals, and mount the new set on the stock fasteners. Next, you need to install a navigation antenna on the roof and connect it to the appropriate connector. The second case is when an old panel with a CAN unit, but without navigation, is replaced with an analogue one. Here it is necessary to rearrange the contact connectors of the standard wiring from positions 10-11 to sockets No. 28-29. In case of incorrect operation of the devices, the replaced wires are swapped with each other. After the repair is completed, the counters should reset to zero.

Determination of early or late ignition

The stability of the engine, its power, fuel efficiency, etc. directly depend on the correct settings and uninterrupted operation of the ignition system. Normally, on four-stroke engines, the fuel-air mixture should ignite at the end of the compression stroke, that is, just before the piston rises to top dead center. This ignition timing is due to the fact that the mixture requires a certain time to burn, after which the energy of the expanding gases pushes the piston down and the power stroke begins.

Late or early ignition should be understood as a delay or advance in the operation of the ignition system in relation to the position of the piston in the cylinder. In other words, a spark plug spark forms and ignites the fuel-air mixture not at the optimal moment when the piston approaches TDC, but earlier or later than this moment. This phenomenon is called early or late ignition. For this reason, owners of vehicles that have the ability to independently adjust the ignition timing (ignition timing) are often faced with the need to adjust the ignition.

Which rollers are better for the drive mechanism?

Gates rollers were installed on the Priora from the factory. Reviews say that this is not the best option, since the quality of the material in them leaves much to be desired, and the service life is barely long enough to replace the belt. Plastic, after all, is plastic. Therefore, when replacing a belt, you should still play it safe and install better quality belts and rollers. The Marel KIT Magnum is a pretty good kit, it includes two metal casters and a quality Contitech belt. They are even visually different, although they cost about 4 thousand. In a word, there are no special questions regarding the VAZ belt, but it is better to install the rollers from a third-party manufacturer and certainly metal ones.