Replacing the rear side member of a VAZ 21099

“The spar is gone” - this phrase can often be heard from car service workers inspecting a car after an accident or other mechanical damage. Let's look at what a car spar is and find out where it can actually go.

In the photo, the spar is the load-bearing part of any car.

A spar (from the French longeron, from longer - to go along) is a load-bearing part of a car. As a rule, it is the most powerful beam that holds all the other parts of the car. The spars are mainly made of metal profiles, often aluminum. In essence, it is a longitudinal pipe of the car frame, passing through the nose and rear of the car, and is the basis for the body and fastening of important parts: wheels, engine, etc.

Spars are an integral part of the car. You won't be able to see her in her usual position. But if you look at the bottom of the car from the inspection hole, you will not confuse it with anything.

Preparation for work

Lanzheron photo in a VAZ 2114 car
Considering the long-term use of the VAZ 21099 sedan, the condition of the power frame of the car body may not be the best. Therefore, if you need to replace the rear side member of a VAZ 21099, you need to purchase all the necessary spare parts.

Replacing the rear beam

It is equally important to decide how the replacement will be carried out. If you do everything in a garage, you will need a lift and the necessary equipment

If you are replacing the rear side member yourself, you need to perform a number of preparatory work before lifting the car on the lift.

Seats, carpets and interior floor coverings must be removed. This is done to comply with fire safety and maintain the quality of materials.
Considering the welding work, it is advisable to dismantle (or at least protect with special material) the fuel tank with gasoline residues. And after the car is on the lift, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Further operations are carried out in the following sequence:

drive the car onto a lift, remove the wheels from the hubs;
release the rear beam with suspension elements, otherwise it will be impossible to carry out work;
clean the rear spar to determine the mounting points.

It should be borne in mind that the spar is usually secured by spot welding, so it is important to locate all such places. For better cleaning, use a wire brush

We clean the welding areas using an angle grinder.

Preparatory work

If you nevertheless decide to repair the spar on a VAZ yourself, first you will need to acquire the following tools for the job:

welding machine;
metal hacksaw or plasma cutter;
grinding machine;
metal spatula.

Since spar replacement and repair are carried out using the same technology, the set of tools will also be the same. First you will need to dismantle all electrical equipment, parts, engine components and chassis.

The next stage is heating the parts. But first you will need to get rid of the old coating, remove the sealant, sound insulation and primer. Now you can cut off the heated spar. Please note that if the wheel arch is also being replaced, there is no need to separate it first.

Please note that it is better to purchase spars complete with other parts. This way you will be sure that they will fit each other perfectly and will not spend so much time installing them.

Recommendations for replacing the rear side members of the VAZ-2114

Trunk volume of VAZ 2114 Lada VAZ 2114

When replacing a LP, many craftsmen cut off the old body element with a gas cutter, but it is better to drill out the part. When installing a new spar, it is very important to find the control points correctly and not to disturb the geometry of the body, otherwise the work will have to be redone and problems will arise. It is recommended to grab the spar at three or four points; before thoroughly welding the part, it is recommended to try on the rear beam - the fasteners must match the studs. Before installing the body element, the seat must be thoroughly cleaned of rust and well primed; if the metal is rusty, new plates must be welded.

You cannot weld with a continuous seam, this will weaken the metal of the body.

Replacing rear side members is not an easy job, if you are not confident in your abilities, you should not take on it, it is better to use the services of professionals.

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The VAZ-2109 is a car that is not distinguished by a strong body; iron quickly succumbs to corrosion, and almost all body parts rust. Replacing the front spar is required when its metal is rotten in different places; the part is also replaced if it is severely deformed after an impact (accident).

Rear spar repair kit 2108-09

The correct tightening torque for the cylinder head on a VAZ-2114

The rear spar repair insert allows you to replace only part of the body part, which simplifies the repair and makes it cheaper. The repair kit is a reinforcing element located on a bend; it is believed that this particular place on the body is subject to intense rusting.

In practice, it is not always possible to use a repair insert, since both the rear beam fastening in the side member (the main problem of 2109) and the jack often rot. The average cost of a repair insert in auto stores is 700-800 rubles, catalog numbers are 2108-5101372 and 2108-5101373 (right and left sides).

The main reasons for the destruction of the front spar

As noted above, the submarine bends from impact and rusts over time. The following also have a destructive effect on this body element:

constant engine vibrations, especially if the engine or gearbox mounts are loose;
driving a car on bad roads;
extreme driving.

Since the side members are practically the skeleton of the body, a large load falls on them. All vibrations and shocks are transmitted to these elements; as a result, the body parts cannot withstand, become deformed, and cracks appear on them.

Replacing the rear right side member 2109

The condition of the rear spar is determined by external inspection; if the body element has traces of severe corrosion and is thoroughly rotten, it must be replaced; in many cases its repair is impractical. Even before performing work, it is necessary to inspect the car body itself; often the iron on the 2109 rots to such an extent that there is practically nothing to weld to.

To carry out repair work you will need:

welding machine;
electric drill with drills;
screwdrivers;
a set of keys;
hammer;
core;
chisel;
cleaning wheels.

You must first buy the floor spar itself (LP), the average retail price of the body element in auto stores is from 1800 to 2500 rubles, catalog number is 2108-5101372. This spare part is suitable for model 2108-09-13-14, with minimal modifications it can be installed on VAZ cars 21099 and 2115. Since when replacing a spar you basically have to work under the car, you need to think about how to make it easy to get to below. There are several options here:

use a car lift;
carry out work in the inspection pit, hanging the rear part of the body on “goats” or other stands;
turn the car over on its side, using a reliable support.

Before you start drilling out the old spar, you need to partially disassemble the car and remove:

rear seats;
gas tank;
rear floor trim;
rugs;
rear beam (you will have to disconnect the handbrake cables and brake hoses).

After disassembly, you can begin to directly remove the rear LP; to do this, you need to find the attachment points, drill them at the spot welding points using a drill clamped into the drill chuck. After dismantling the body part, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the metal under the spar and prime it, remove the shipping primer from the new part (it can be removed very effectively and quickly using sandblasting). In order for the right side member to fit exactly in place, you should use measurements (there are control points for attaching units), there must be a certain distance between the elements of the front and rear suspension (between the fastening of the rear beam and the front wishbone).

After determining the control points, the spar is tacked by welding in several places, the correct installation is checked, then the part is finally welded to the seat. The final stage of repair consists of the following steps:

cleaning welding scale with a grinding wheel;
degreasing the metal surface;
application of primer and anti-corrosion coating.

Very important conditions when performing welding are an intermittent seam, a maximum length of 4-5 mm. A continuous weld is unacceptable; with such welding, the body loses its elasticity and becomes very rigid. The left rear lip on the “Eight” or “Nine” changes in exactly the same way as the body element on the right side, the procedure for performing the work and the installation principle are the same.

Problems related to spars

Under the influence of loads, the side members still deform over time, especially the front one (the load from the engine and its systems) suffers. Just like the front ones, the rear ones can crack and get tired. The word “get tired” implies the initiation of a crack, which over time grows throughout the entire part. Of course, an accident can also leave a significant mark.

What does operating a car with damaged side members entail? Some parameters of the car are violated: slightly, but the position of the doors, connectors of body parts, and the position of the power plant changes. The suspension geometry also suffers. Due to all these shortcomings, the car's handling is reduced. Therefore, if the body is damaged, you need to take the car for diagnostics - this decision will be correct.

If the spar completely bursts, then the entire body structure will be completely destroyed. It is because of this that after an accident, experts look at the degree of deformation of these elements. The position in which the side members are in the car also plays an important role.

Statistics: Approximately 90% of all work associated with this part occurs on the front spar. Such damage can be resolved quickly only with a frame spar - there it is simply replaced. As for the supporting body, sometimes the spars simply cannot be replaced. Let's say it was slightly dented in an accident: such damage can be corrected using a special carolin stand. For example, on the stand there are front left and rear side members - using a convenient location, mechanics measure all the parameters necessary to correct the problem.

It happens that the side members of a car are in such a state that the only option left is replacement. Changing parts entails a significant change in the properties of the entire body. After all, the shape, material and weight are calculated by the manufacturing company - in automotive centers you have to improvise. When the main parts of the spar are in good condition, a partial replacement is performed using arc gas welding.

When making repairs, you must insist that the new spar is no larger in size and weight than the old one. Some people prefer to harden a new one, but one must remember that such a decision may lead to a loss of shock-absorbing properties upon impact. Constant blows will lead to more serious consequences. Do not forget that in the event of an accident, the side members are checked first, and then everything else.

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Hello everyone, is it expensive to rebuild the rear right side member?

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by Adminrive · Published 02/24/2016

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by Adminrive · Published 06/16/2016

Replacing the spar Lada 2114 16

So, the geometry of the body has been almost completely restored, which means it’s time to start replacing the spar. The first thing that had to be done was to cut off the old spar, since there was little point in changing it entirely. It was decided to cut almost to the very root of the engine shield, which, in fact, was done.

Next, the remaining part of the spar was opened almost to the very threshold in order to remove the remains of the internal amplifier from it.

What took the most effort and time were the weld points, which I carefully drilled out with a half-killed drill for three days on the remains of the TV and burdock (especially on the number plate).

After all this torment, no less painstaking work awaited me. Since my new spar was assembled, I had to practically cut out the part I needed from it, which, as a result, took about 10 hours of labor, and even more with all the small adjustments. And finally, the treasured part of the new spar fell into place.

By the way, it was decided to weld the new spar overlapping with the remaining part of the old one.

In order to increase the penetration area, a bunch of holes were drilled throughout the spar, in the place where it overlapped with the old one. And the whole thing was thoroughly welded at maximum current with a semi-automatic welder. It should be noted that all this was first thoroughly coated with epoxy primer.

After a little adjustment of the freshly boiled spar, the cup was boiled using the same principle. The car began to take on a more familiar appearance)

I forgot to mention that to increase the rigidity of the engine compartment, almost all the seams under the hood were thoroughly welded.

Phew... That seems to be it))) A lot of work was done, and now that everything worked out, the spar is completely welded and adjusted, I can’t help but smile)))

What is a spar, what does it look like, and where is it installed?

A spar is a structural unit of a car that looks like a rectangular pipe, that is, a metal profile with a rectangular cross-section.

The part passes through the front and rear of the body, acting as a support. Depending on the body design, an option with side members between the bumpers is possible.

This unit can be composite (assembled from several elements) or integral.

In the classic configuration, two spars are installed (left and right).

Example, left front side member of a VAZ 2110.

Each element is divided into three parts - middle, front and back. The main difference is the location.

Thus, the spar installed at the front and left is positioned at a level lower than the spar at the rear and the same unit, but only the wing.

The nodes are parallel to each other, but there may be cases where they are located at a minimum angle.

Spar on Nissan Bluebird HU14 SR20VE.

The starting material for production is aluminum or titanium. Sometimes component layers are used to add to the fortress structure. The cross section of the spar has the shape of the letter “P”. At the same time, in places of maximum load the cross-section is larger.

The main advantage of the part is its exceptional strength. These units are able to withstand maximum loads - the weight of the car, luggage, mass of units, and so on.

In addition, the side members cope with all the impacts that they receive when the wheels get into holes or in the event of an accident.

Structurally, these units form a U-shaped staircase frame laid on its side.

This type of design is an integral part of many SUVs and trucks.

As for passenger cars, the ladder principle is not applied in them. To visually see the detail, just look under the bottom of the vehicle.

Body structure of the VAZ 2108, location of the side members.

When repairs are required

For all VAZ models, the body was made of black or low-carbon steel of class 08Yu, 08KP. The parts were not galvanized, but were coated with a polymer anti-corrosion composition; the film protected the bottom from moisture for up to 6 months, then natural oxidation processes began. After the purchase, drivers had to carry out thorough anti-corrosion treatment of the metal.

Repair or complete over-welding of the bottom of the VAZ 2114 will be required in the following cases:

It is impossible to jack up the car; the jacks fall through.
The floor in the car became uneven, the metal sagged from corrosion.
The driver's seat cannot be adjusted; when the doors are closed, increased gaps appear.
Noticeable areas of corrosion on the sills and wheel arches. If you lift the car onto an overpass and check it with an awl, the anti-corrosion layer from the bottom will fall off, and traces of rust will be clearly visible.

Repair of the front side member of the VAZ-2109

The main reasons why submarines have to be repaired are the appearance of cracks on the body element. In some cases, the spar bursts in a circle, the metal rots through and through, if the part itself is not yet in a completely deplorable state, patches are put on it, and the iron is strengthened using spot welding. If the spar is pulled away as a result of an accident, it is pulled out on a stand. You can try to pull out the submarine without a slipway; in garage or field conditions, craftsmen carry out a similar operation using a strong metal chain, a hand winch and some kind of support, for example, wood.

In this case, the rear beam must be fixed so that the car does not move forward; it should be pulled carefully, constantly checking for deformation of the rear axle. If the beam bends due to excessive force, it will have to be replaced. Only professionals can say whether it is worth repairing a car after damage to the spar; in some cases it is easier to sell the car for spare parts than to restore it.

Classification

There are composite parts similar to a set of iron elements. There are also solid ones, produced by milling or stamping.

The standard design assumes:

Each has three main parts: middle, back, front. Most often, individual elements are installed in parallel, but in some designs a small angle is assumed.

They are mandatory components of every car, no matter what type of body it has. To produce this type of spare part, aluminum or titanium alloys and composite materials are used. The channel, which is the main section in this part, has a U-shaped appearance.

Automotive engineers can install the frame at the rear, at the front of the vehicle, or throughout the entire vehicle body.

Due to the significant pressure, durable materials and alloys are needed during manufacturing. Pressure is exerted on this element by the weight of passengers, the engine, and other automobile parts. It is also subject to the load transmitted during driving from the wheels of the vehicle. Passenger cars require a load-bearing body structure, SUVs are equipped with ladder frames.

Spar deformation

Like any spare part of a car that experiences stress, the side member can break or even crack under heavy load. But the operation of such important parts of the car as the engine, suspension parts, door operation and the integrity of the wings depends on the condition of the spar. In addition, the spar supports the driver and passengers. If damage from an accident is added to the normal loads on the spar, this does not bode well.

If a car with a crumpled fender or door can move normally, then if the side member is damaged, further operation of the vehicle is impossible. Otherwise, this can lead to loss of vehicle control, destruction of rubber, and even complete destruction of the entire body.

Replacing the rear right side member 2109

To carry out repair work you will need:

welding machine;
electric drill with drills;
screwdrivers;
a set of keys;
hammer;
core;
chisel;
cleaning wheels.

use a car lift;
carry out work in the inspection pit, hanging the rear part of the body on “goats” or other stands;
turn the car over on its side, using a reliable support.

Before you start drilling out the old spar, you need to partially disassemble the car and remove:

rear seats;
gas tank;
rear floor trim;
rugs;
rear beam (you will have to disconnect the handbrake cables and brake hoses).

cleaning welding scale with a grinding wheel;
degreasing the metal surface;
application of primer and anti-corrosion coating.

Features of replacing the front spar

Let us highlight several main reasons for wear of the front part:

poor quality road surface;
weakening of the steering mechanism, suspension mountings;
driving at high speed on bad roads

There is a certain algorithm of actions when replacing such a spare part:

Use a power screwdriver to remove the door. Soundproofing material and mats are removed from the interior.
The wing is removed, the front part of the body, as well as the front axle, are fixed.
The spring is tightened, 3 bolts are unscrewed from the upper ball joint, and the upper arm is dismantled.

Advice! If you can’t unscrew the bolts (they are jammed), you can use a grinder.

Next, the stretcher is unscrewed, with the help of which the beam and the front spar are attached, and the engine mudguard is cut off using a grinder.
The front side member, divided into two parts, is separated from the car body.
Dust and traces of corrosion are removed from all attachment points of the front spar, and then the new part is fixed.
The mudguard of the car engine and the lower part are welded, the fender is put in place, and the door is attached.

Every car owner must know what the front and rear side members in a car are intended for. A similar tubular structure with a rectangular cross-section takes on the main loads. The maximum of them exist in automobile side members, since they are associated with traction and lifting force. In older car models, designers used rigid longitudinal frames. When assessing the technical characteristics of the spar, it should be noted that this part is important for the car and, if deformed, can have a negative impact on the main characteristics of the car. Collisions and strong impacts lead to deformation of the side members and the appearance of cracks on them.

Damage has a serious impact on the integrity of the entire vehicle: main components, engine, suspension, doors, wings, and other parts. If the wing or car door is damaged, the deformed rear and front side members can “float”, that is, disrupt the geometry of the entire suspension. The car stops “obeying” its owner, and the rate of wear of car tires increases.

During crash tests, some modern Chinese cars demonstrated a sharp separation of the side members from the floor in the cabin. In Chinese models, welding a deformed spar is a waste of time and money. It’s better to immediately go to a service station and entrust your car to professionals who will replace the worn-out part. A significant impact negatively affects the subsequent use of the vehicle and casts doubt on the possibility of safe operation.

You can learn how to pull out the spars from the following video:

Carrying out repair and welding work

Repairing the underbody of a VAZ 2115 is quite difficult. Under the bottom of the car there is a fuel system, brake system and muffler pipes. When replacing an entire part, these systems must be completely removed and reinstalled after welding. Experienced tinsmiths recommend not dismantling the muffler elements, but cutting them out, after repairing the bottom, boiling the part and installing it in place.

If the underbody is partially repaired, there will be no need to remove the fuel and brake system pipes. When cutting out entirely, it is recommended to cut out the bottom not along the factory welding line, but leaving an allowance of 1-2 cm. The new element is welded with an overlapping seam, which increases the rigidity of the body and the durability of the weld seam.

The cost of replacing the front side member of a VAZ-2108-09 in a car service center

Since replacing a submarine is not an easy job even for an average car service center, not all craftsmen undertake it, especially since not everyone is eager to begin restoring the body of a used Nine. Mostly, small auto repair shops carry out minor and medium body repairs, while large auto repair centers do not want to deal with domestic cars at all. Prices for body work from auto repair companies and private owners are most often approximate; often the final cost of the repairman is announced closer to the end of the repair. The fact is that “pitfalls” may unexpectedly appear, and as a result of their identification, the work is delayed and becomes more complex.

Some car service centers indicate two values in the price list at once - the upper and lower limits; in large cities or the capital, they charge from 3,500 to 9,000 rubles for replacing the front side member; usually, work from private repairmen in garages costs less. Often, along with the submarine, it is necessary to change the wing splash guard, sills, and repair the bottom; some auto repair shops note in their prices that the cost of repairs in the price list is indicated without painting.

A brief excursion into history

The development of the spar and the creation of various body elements are closely interrelated. This is not surprising, because on the first vehicles only frames were used as support.

At first they were made of wood, but over time they were replaced by durable metal structures.

In the last century, in the 1920s, Auburn developed the first spar frame with an "X" cross member.

Over time, the parts were improved and became one with the bottom of the vehicle.

At the present stage, spars are an integral part of the machine design, regardless of the type of supporting system.

Causes of spar failure

Our uneven roads can also damage the spar

Active use of the car, long journeys on uneven roads can lead to side member malfunction. If you do not pay attention to it for a long time and do nothing, this important part will collapse and it will no longer be possible to repair it.

The causes of failure are:

road with potholes;
driving at high speed over bumps;
loosening of fastenings;
corrosion processes;
collision with an obstacle.

Matters of the heart

Over the 22-year conveyor life of the Nizhny Novgorod “one and a half”, quite a few different engines managed to work in its engine compartment, starting with gasoline Rover 20T4 / V8 MPI, DCC EDZ (Chrysler 2.4 DOHC), ZMZ, UMP and ending with diesel engines GAZ-560 (Steyr), ZMZ-514 and Cummins ISF 2.8. And these are only mass-produced units, and how many more experimental, experimental and converted versions were generated both by the plant itself and by countless private service stations and tuning studios...

Acting empirically, in the late 1990s, experts came to the conclusion that one of the most optimal engine options for GAZ passenger cars and light commercial vehicles is the product of the Japanese company Toyota. Numerous tuning shops operating at the Gorky Automobile Plant at that time, "Celeste"), began to re-equip Volgas, Sobols and GAZelles on individual orders, installing more powerful 6-cylinder Toyota engines on them. One of the most famous in this area was, which still exists today, however, tuning GAZ cars has not been its main business for a long time.

But if in any search engine on the Internet today you type the query “Toyota engine for GAZelle”, many companies that continue the work of Technoservice will appear in the list of results. But if 10-15 years ago the Japanese power units installed on gas cars cost incredible amounts of money, today components come from Japan in the form of used “contract parts”. In addition, the engines were installed mainly on new GAZ cars, which required certification and registration. And today, engine changes are often carried out on used cars only under a re-equipment certificate.

The latter circumstance became possible thanks to Order No. 20152 of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia dated March 17, 2011, according to which the verification of engine numbers of vehicles with a gross weight of up to 5 tons in the traffic police was canceled. This point still causes numerous disputes and various legal consequences in the traffic police. But this is already a question of the imperfection of legislation and the lack of uniformity in law enforcement.

Classifying an engine as a numberless part has freed up the hands of vehicle tuning companies, and the “registration” of alternative engines under the hood of GAZelles has recently been gaining popularity. With the assistance of Nizhny Novgorod, I watched the process of converting a GAZelle from a basic power unit to an alternative one and even took a ride in one of the “one and a half” with the heart of a samurai.

Design Features

Model 2114 was built on the basis of the VAZ 2109, it is a restyled version. The hatchback received a new steering column, a modernized dashboard, an updated one and a half liter engine, redesigned for Euro 2 protocol. The VAZ 2114 shares the same wheelbase with the Nine, 2460 mm. The configuration of the bottom panel is the same for the models.

Are there any differences between 2114 and 2115

The VAZ 2115 model is considered a related model. The hatchback is built on the basis of the VAZ 21099 with various transport sizes and shares one wheelbase with the entire Lada Samara family. The standard dimensions of the bottom and sills for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115 models are the same and interchangeable.

The bottom of the VAZ 2114 structurally consists of the following parts:

central reinforced panel;
driver's side panel;
side passenger;

The factory stock bottom is a one-piece stamped part, primed and painted black. The polyethylene coating acts as protection.

Why is a spar needed?

The rear and front spar are the power unit of any system where it is installed. In trucks and heavy SUVs it becomes an integral part of the frame; in a frameless car it is intended to strengthen the underbody. The total weight of the engine, body, driver and passengers, and heavy luggage can be colossal, and the spar can support them all.

Another function of this element is shock absorption for the front of the car. If the body is too rigid, the impact cannot be fully absorbed and is transmitted to the passengers. The spars are involved in absorbing deformation distortions, which makes the part of the body where passengers are located less deformable.

Car front design

To ensure this function, deformable zones are created in the rear and front of the body, in which the longitudinal force structure is weakened. Weakening of the side members can occur in several ways:

reduction in wall thickness;
reduction of cross-section;
holes in parts subject to minimal loads;
creating folds that allow the part to be removed into a kind of accordion during an accident. In the event of a frontal or rear impact, these places are destroyed, but the absorption of maximum impact energy is achieved with a decrease in the impact force directed into the passenger compartment.

Tasks of spars

The spar in a passenger car serves as a reinforcing part for the underbody, mudguards and luggage compartment floor. In large cars it acts as the main strength element of the body. In addition to its reinforcing task, the front spar acts as additional shock absorbers - it is located in the deformation absorption zone. After all, in order for the part of the car body where people are located to receive the least impact while driving, it is necessary to soften the impact - and this impact is taken by the front side member.

Installation process

Let us describe the process of replacing the front side member on VAZ 2108/2109 cars:

Using a plasma cutter, in the absence of which you can use a hand hacksaw for metal, you need to cut off a new spar. Its size must be identical to the size of the damaged VAZ part. Once you have everything you need to make the repair, you can begin installation. The spar is connected to other parts, using guide templates, you can achieve precise installation. Now you can start welding parts 2108 / 2109, but first you need to check everything carefully. Only after this will it be possible to secure the part in several places. She welds the joint to the joint using arc welding. Fix the side member on the front panel of the VAZ. The method of spot or through welding is used here.

Please note that if you replace the spar, the second option is more reliable. All you have to do is go over the welding areas with a grinding machine. It will be enough to tap the new contact points between the spar and the wheel arch with a hammer to secure the result.

Finally, apply primer, soundproofing and sealant to 2108 or 2109.

Body geometry VAZ 2108/2109

If you have completed all stages of the work, then you can be proud of yourself! But remember that doing the repairs yourself is quite difficult. If you have doubts about your skills, it is better to contact a car service. It may cost a little more, but the car will serve you for many years.

I just finished replacing the rear side members on the 2108. A short report with my comments.

The old spars were already covered with rust and the patches had been patched over (and rather obscenely), there was no living space left. At first I wanted to limit myself to a couple of patches during a quick inspection at the client’s, after removing the beam and a more or less detailed inspection from a hole in my garage, the decision was made to definitely change both entirely.

View from the arch of this wonderful patch after stripping with a wire wheel

Attention to the number of welding points

On the left side the picture was almost the same. I think the general condition of the side members is more or less clear from these three photos.

On the very first day of work, the new iron was immediately painted from the inside with gf-021 primer. Excellent primer, very durable and with good adhesion, insensitive to slight oiling and contamination, holds well, the layer is durable. One problem - it takes a very long time to dry. Even in the summer at 20 degrees, not just one day, as it says on the can, but all three until more or less complete drying; in winter, at least a week.

By the way, real gf-021 can ONLY be red-brown in color. I won’t describe here what and how, so as not to deviate from the main topic, if anyone is interested, write, I’ll make a separate post.

The easiest, fastest and highest quality way to remove old side members (and any body parts in general) is drilling. I used the most common metal drill with a diameter of 7.5mm. I’m clarifying about a regular drill because there are special drills for drilling resistance welding points - I’ve never used them, I can’t say anything about them.

Since I weld power elements in a way that is as close as possible to factory welding in terms of strength and rigidity, that is, with an electric rivet, drilling will immediately give the necessary holes for subsequent welding exactly in the same places where the old spar was welded, allowing you to navigate along them in the position of the new part.

Replacement or welding

If a crack forms on the spar, a patch is usually placed in this place. The crack is first welded, covered with a piece of metal and spot welded on top for reliability. Typically, a semi-automatic machine with carbon dioxide is used for this.

During welding, spacers are placed on the spar to prevent it from being pulled to the side. Otherwise, the body may become deformed. If possible, it is always better to purchase a new part, which costs more than temporary repair work. But, with a limited budget, in some cases, you can save money.

For example, if the metal is rotten, then the side members (front and rear) can no longer be repaired. Even if you weld, the rot will continue around it. In addition, welding on soft metal can disrupt wheel alignment, tires will begin to wear out faster, transmission parts will begin to break, and body deformation may occur. How long will this repair last? At most, for a couple of weeks. Agree, replacement is much cheaper.

But if the crack is a consequence of a VAZ impact or collision, welding will be sufficient. But here you need to be very careful. Typically, a crack forms after an accident only if the body has also become deformed. And in this case, it will be necessary to first level it, and only then can you proceed to welding work.

Recommended literature on repair and maintenance of VAZ 2108 and VAZ 2109:

But is it necessary to contact a service station or can the replacement for 2108 and 2109 be done independently? Remember, you shouldn’t skimp here either. Do your own VAZ repairs only if you understand body work and know how to work with a welding machine. When you encounter it for the first time, you are unlikely to be able to perform high-quality repairs. And all of the above problems may follow.

Spar VAZ 2018/2109

Straightening and repairing the body of a VAZ 2109 can also only be done in a car repair shop. If you do not have the skills and special equipment, it will be difficult to cope with the task.

Final processing

Primer, anti-corrosion treatment, installation of new sound insulation and installation of the interior with electrical connections are the final stage of work on the bottom. For external treatment, you will need bitumen mastic or anticorrosive Body 930. The product has a budget cost and is highly resistant. The mastic forms a dense but elastic protective layer that does not allow moisture to pass through and protects the iron. Final work step by step:

Clean weld seams.
Treat welding areas with a primer containing zinc.
Cover the inner surface with mastic and install new sound insulation.

What to do if the spars are rotten

Unfortunately, the quality of the metal from which our cars are made meets the highest standards. Because of this, the body does not withstand high humidity, which is quite common in our latitudes. The side members mounted under the car body also suffer.

Sources

https://avtomobil-vaz.ru/zamena-zadnego-lonzherona-2109/
https://avtobrands.ru/perednij-lonzheron-vaz-2109-zamena-remont-stoimost-rabot/
https://AutomobilGroup.ru/instruktsiya/zamena-lonzherona-foto-instruktsiya-pomenyat-lonzheron/
https://AvtoChehol.su/remont-i-obsluzhivanie/zamena-lonzherona-vaz-2109.html
https://mashinaa.ru/avtovaz/vaz-2109/6187-lonzheron-vaz-2109-remont-zamena.html
https://avtorazbor59.ru/stati/zamena-lonzherona-vaz-2109.html
https://prometey96.ru/ustrojstvo/lonzheron-vaz-2109.html
https://avtobrands.ru/osobennosti-zameny-zadnih-lonzheronov-vaz-2109-stoimost-remonta-v-avtoservise/
https://automanyak.com/remont-i-zapchasti/podrobno-pro-lonzheron-vaz-2109.html