Adjusting the clutch pedal on the Lada Granta. Expert advice on self-replacement


Pedals on a Granta To remove the clutch pedal on a Lada Granta car, you must perform the following steps:

  1. Secure the car on a level surface, squeeze the parking brake lever, and install wheel chocks on the rear row of wheels.
  2. Using a “14” key, unscrew the three bolts and disconnect the steering shaft (interior of the car, at the base).
  3. Unscrew the plastic clamp from the clutch cable lead.


Plastic retainer

  1. Remove the protective bracket and remove the brake pedal vacuum booster pin.


Safety bracket

  1. We disconnect the block with wires from the dashboard with the sensors on the bracket.
  2. Using a key set to “13”, unscrew the four nuts and remove the vacuum brake booster.
  3. Using a “13” wrench, unscrew the five nuts and remove the clutch pedal bracket and brake assembly.

After troubleshooting, we replace the worn elements with new ones and assemble the structure in the reverse order.

Symptoms of malfunction, diagnostics, solutions

SignCause and remedy
Short pedal strokeAdjust the length of the cable. Check the integrity of metal fibers. Most likely delamination or bending.
The clutch drags at speed, it is difficult to shift into higher gears.The flywheel is bent or damaged. The gripper teeth are worn. Replacing the flywheel and related consumables.
Slipping when activating first gear and increasing speed with the accelerator pedal.Replace friction linings, disk, clean the drive from old grease
Sharp jerks when turning on / changing gears.The pressure plate is damaged, replace the basket.
Whistle when activating first and subsequent speedsInstall a new release bearing
Crackling, knocking, crunching noise when shifting into up/down gearsWear out the damper spring, replace it with a new one, lubricate the entire drive mechanism.
The lever falls, falls, rattlesExcessive stretch of tensioner. Replace with a new one, install bushings.

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The reason for the squeaking clutch pedal on the Lada Grant

The design of the clutch on the Lada Granta car is different from previous VAZ models. The shaft drive is activated by a cable with an automatic tensioner.

If the adjustment was made correctly from the factory, then the owner does not need to re-adjust the strain relief. In practice, this is far from the case; problems do happen. Especially at the stage of passing the first and second technical inspections.

Stage No. 1 Adjusting the clutch pedal of Lada Granta

The appearance of third-party noises and squeaks indicates the need for preventive maintenance and troubleshooting of clutch elements. First of all, we check the clearance on the drive fork.


Gap on the drive fork

In the engine compartment, dismantle the plastic casing of the air element and remove the pipes. Using a caliper, measure the size of the gap between the plastic wing and the fork. The factory standard is 27 mm, exceeding or reducing the length is unacceptable. We correct the gap by unscrewing the nut (key set to “10”).

Stage No. 2 Lubrication of elements

Lubricating the moving elements of the pedal assembly, including the compensator ratchet, clutch pedal bushing, and cable sheath.

To simplify the lubrication process, we use a grease gun, fill a medical syringe with transmission oil, and apply it to the surface.

Sometimes the creaking comes from the engine compartment. The reason is the leash of the tip. To eliminate squeaking, apply oil to the contact area between the nut and the drive fork.

Stage No. 3 Insufficient amount of lubricant

In rare cases, the cause of the squeak is the lack of lubrication on the input shaft of the gearbox. The defect is eliminated by applying graphite lubricant to the surface of the shaft. First remove the rubber bushing and spray lubricant using an aerosol can.

Replacing the cable

Tips from experts on replacing the generator belt roller on a Lada Granta with your own hands.
To change the cable, you need to carry out a number of simple operations:

in the car interior (under the panel), the nut that secures the cable to the pedal assembly is unscrewed;

the braid stopper is removed from the pin;

  • use pliers to remove the locking bracket;
  • the pedal axle is removed;
  • the pedal bracket spring is also dismantled;
  • use pliers to pull it towards you and remove the tip stop;
  • the pedal is released from the cable end;
  • the cable sheath seal is removed (in the engine compartment);

  • the tip of the cable connected to the plug must be pulled forward towards you and pulled out of the groove;
  • dismantle the tip driver;
  • remove the guide bushing;
  • pull the Lada Granta clutch cable through the hole between the engine compartment and the car interior.

Before installing a new cable, it must be lubricated. To do this, a little machine oil is poured between it and its shell. Install the new cable in reverse order

It is impossible not to pay attention to the imperfection of the cable tension mechanism. The reason for its squeaking may be:

  • plastic bushing on the pedal;
  • plastic leash;
  • cable (cable and its sheath);
  • gearbox input shaft.

Most of the reasons can be eliminated very simply - you need to lubricate the rubbing parts, for example, with lithol. The same applies to the input shaft - creaking occurs due to lack of bearing lubrication. To lubricate it, you need to get to the fork boot and, pulling it back, generously pump graphite lubricant inside.

The clutch of the Lada Grant remains the same as before. Exactly the same single-disk mechanisms were installed on previous models - Priora, first-generation Kalina, VAZ 2110, 2109, 2108. The plant only partially modified the design, providing it with higher quality parts. Additionally, an automatic cable tensioner has appeared, which in itself is an additional source of malfunctions. This is a fairly old development, and during its use no measures have been taken to eliminate the most common problems. On the contrary, engineers complicated the design by adding additional elements. On the other hand, the Lada Granta clutch is inexpensive to maintain, and you can buy all the necessary spare parts in every car store. Any car owner can replace the Lada Granta clutch with his own hands. Availability and simplicity of design remain AvtoVAZ’s priorities, although quality is not in first place.

Many owners of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora notice the creaking of the clutch pedal. Moreover, this problem may arise after the first kilometers of driving. We will tell you about the possible causes of this disease, as well as ways to solve it.

First, make sure your car's clutch is adjusted correctly. While holding the clutch cable end in an extended position, measure the size between the fork and the driver, it should be 27 mm. How to adjust the clutch cable is shown in the video:

About 11% claim that the causes of clutch squeaking were in the clutch cable

Pay attention to the presence of a spring in the tension mechanism; Lada Kalina 2 and Lada Granta may not have it. It is worth noting that this spring is present on the clutch cable of the Lada Priora and the owners of these cars practically do not encounter a squeaking clutch pedal

If there is no spring, then it should be installed. Also, it would be a good idea to lubricate the clutch cable using a thin tube, or, if suitable, install a clutch cable from Lada Priora (catalog number: 21700-1602210).

What should be the clutch pedal travel of the Lada Granta?

The free play of the clutch pedal on the Lada Grant is 146 mm - this is the distance from the base of the body to the back of the pedal (frog). The manufacturer allows a stroke play of 2.0 mm.

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If the above distance does not meet the standard, we carry out the following adjustment steps:

  1. In the engine compartment, pull the end of the cable forward as far as it will go. Using a caliper, measure the actual distance from the plastic nut to the drive fork. Factory standard 27 mm.
  2. We carry out adjustments and adjustments as necessary (key to “10”).
  3. We pump the pedal 2-3 times and take repeated measurements.
  4. Inside the car we measure the pedal stroke, it should be equal to 146 mm.

If the pedal travel increases/decreases, the clutch cable must be replaced with a new one. To eliminate free play, use the Lada Granta clutch pedal repair kit.

Includes:

  • pressure bushings;
  • plastic compensator;
  • spring.

Step-by-step instruction

Prior clutch adjustment: detailed description of settings

Now we will analyze the whole process step by step. Stock up on a caliper or at least a ruler in advance.

  • Open the hood and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Now we need to remove the air filter, which hides the components we need
  • We remove the mass air flow sensor connector, the adsorber coupler, the rubber supports and tilt the VF housing to the side
  • Our clutch fork is located next to the crankcase. On some cars on the secondary market you can also find a sensor moved there by the driver
  • Using a tool, say, pliers, we pull the tip towards ourselves in order to free up more space for work
  • We take a caliper and measure the distance from the leash to the fork. According to Grant's technical documentation, it should be exactly 27 millimeters
  • We adjust the leash according to the thread if the distance does not match
  • Then we press the pedal a couple of times, look at the result, and repeat the setting
  • Next is the travel of the pedal itself. It should be 14.6 centimeters (+ - centimeter). As already said, it is better if it is flush with the brake
  • If even after several adjustments the pedal does not fall into place, then it would be logical to deal with the unit itself

Why does the clutch pedal click on the Lada Grant?

Often, owners of the new Lada Grana complain about the clicking of the clutch assembly. In most cases, the reason lies in insufficient lubrication of the drive cable.

Lubricating the cable yourself is not difficult. The lubrication procedure is described above; read additionally if repairs are necessary.

Sometimes the cause of the clicking sound lies in a faulty sensor (clutch pedal switch) located on the rear side. For dismantling and subsequent replacement you must:

  1. Remove the block with wires coming from the dashboard.
  2. Unscrew the two screws securing the base of the board to the pedal and replace the part.
  3. Reassemble in reverse order.

Note to the driver!!! The pedal position sensor cannot be repaired; it can only be replaced with a new one if it fails.

Other malfunctions, such as loose pedals, stiffness, failure, are also associated with cable stretching, fiber delamination, winding damage, and worn out hinges.

Verdict

Substandard behavior of the Granta pedal assembly is a malfunction that should be eliminated as soon as possible. The issue may be either in the drive, which here is a cable drive, or directly in the unit connecting the engine and the gearbox.

Most often, the problem lies in an unraveled cable or its limited mobility in the jacket. This problem can be eliminated by replacing the cable and/or lubricating it with oil, silicone or WD-40. The fork shaft often needs lubrication.

Less commonly, the problem is caused by a deformed or cracked fork. Wear on the leaf spring can radically change the amount of force required to release the pedal. A new clutch can also cause it to feel stiff.

Hi all. I recently talked about the reasons for clutch pedal failure, as well as ways to solve this phenomenon. Today I decided to supplement the series of articles about the clutch with another, no less relevant topic - the creaking of the clutch pedal.

You will learn about the reasons why the clutch pedal squeaks and how to get rid of it.

I’ll say right away that the creaking of a pedal, whether it’s a clutch or a brake, in most cases does not affect its functionality and, by and large, is a common irritant that infuriates many motorists. Creaking or grinding of pedals rarely indicates serious damage, but before you give up on it with the words “I still have nerves of iron,” I recommend making sure that the problem is really not worth attention.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

ManufacturerPrice, rub.)Resource (Thousand km)
LADA 21901-1602210
original
From 634100
ASPCC260210From 46575 – 80
BRAND 219011602210From 30075 — 80
Plastic cable lead
21901-1602266-00
From 15040
21901-1602210-00
clutch cable assembly
From 550 – 60075
21901-1602210-00
clutch cable assembly
—/—75
JSC "ProSport" 26594516From 50080 – 85
JSC Vortex 5465465From 55080 — 85

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*prices are current as of October 29, 2018.

Recommendations for the selection of parts and components

The vast majority of spare parts for the Lada Granta are domestically produced. Foreign analogues are not in demand due to their high cost. Compared to “our” products, imports are 10–15% more expensive. The workmanship is at the same level.

When purchasing spare parts and components, always give preference to high-quality, original parts. Check the correspondence of catalog items with the actual data specified in the operating instructions for the technical device.

If you have no experience in car maintenance, seek qualified assistance from service station specialists.

List of online stores selling parts (Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kyiv regions)

NameAddress
1."Autoall"www.avtoall.ru
2."Original part"lada-original.ru/
3."Navigator"www.navigator-63.ru/
4."TOTAX"totax.com.ua
5."Zakupka"kiev.zakupka.com
6."How much"www.avtostore.spb.ru

Diagram and principle of operation of the clutch on the Lada Grant

During the systematic operation of the equipment, the friction linings of the driven disk wear out, as a result of which the clutch fork moves forward. The free play of the cable increases. A length compensator is pre-installed for automatic cable tensioning.

A pressure spring installed in the plastic housing of the compensator automatically tightens the cable, eliminating free play of the pedal.

To maintain the clutch in good condition, periodically lubricate the pedal rolling mechanism, cable, and shaft drive lever. It is best to use graphite lubricant, gear oil. Any car owner who is familiar with the principle of operation of the clutch on the VAZ 2109, 21099, 2108 will not experience any difficulties with the Granta.

Why the ECM detects error “P0830”, video explanation

Praise to the author! I am also a terrible car enthusiast, albeit with little experience... I also had right-hand drive ones, but unfortunately, they are not convenient with our traffic. I now have probably the most boring Toyota model. For almost 2 years of owning this car, I had no problems at all, it burned out once a light bulb in the foot, and I changed the brakes and oil according to plan, despite the fact that the car is 8 years old, the mileage is about 150 thousand. It accelerates quickly, drives smoothly, and is maneuverable. spacious trunk and for its size a very comfortable and spacious interior, dad feels completely comfortable in the back seat, and he is a large man. After a night in a windswept parking lot at minus 35, it started up and didn’t even sneeze once. The stove heats perfectly, the air conditioner cools quickly, the consumption is 6-7 liters of 92 in the city. engine 1.5. 106 horses, + with its size it will fit into any hole in the parking lot. In short, the car is just great. )))

I've been meaning to adjust the clutch on my Grant for a long time. I made a printout of your article. Tomorrow I’ll arm myself with the necessary tools and go to the garage to do everything with my own hands step by step, as described in the article.

Open the hood, under the air filter there is a clutch foot. It is equipped with a cable with a plastic screw. Lightly pressing the foot, remove the cable to the side. We adjust the cable screw and put it back on the foot.

When accelerating, the engine roars slightly when the leveler revs up

Clutch needs replacement! It's slipping!

When starting off there is jerking, what could be the problem?

The clutch is designed to connect and disconnect the gearbox and engine flywheel, smoothing out sudden changes in torque loads. The friction clutch allows the car to start and stop smoothly with the power unit running. If sudden braking is necessary with the clutch engaged, it slips, protecting the gearbox from possible overloads. In good condition, the mechanism should provide a reliable connection between the transmission and the power unit.

Reviews

Positive
1.Gennady: This is my second year driving Grant, there are no special problems. I follow maintenance deadlines, fill with high-quality oils, and have a moderate driving style. I believe that these are the main factors that ensure the “longevity” of a car.
2.Vasily: after 35,000 km the cable creaked, I thought about replacing it with a new one, but the guys advised me to lubricate it with oil. Thanks for the recommendation, I’m driving, I don’t know any problems.
3.Vitaly: I heard from motorists about the problem of cable squeaking on Grant. I can’t confirm, since I drove 75,000, the unit is working properly.
4.Ivan: the total mileage of the car is over 110,000 km. I replaced the clutch cable at 80,000 km; this is a very good resource for the Lada Granta. Of course, the car is not perfect, but with timely maintenance, everything works properly.
5.Kirill: on a run of 90,000 km the cable flew, I didn’t think that Grant would last that long. The store recommended a number of manufacturers, and made a choice in favor of domestic ones. My recommendations to motorists.
6.Vladislav: the first creak of the tensioner appeared at 65,000 km, did not lubricate it, replaced it with a new one. I think that this is quite normal for Russian quality.
7.Igor: the clutch works properly, does not knock, does not stick, mileage is 95,000 km. Taking good care of the machine and quality parts are the main factors contributing to long service life.
Negative
1.Victor: the first tensioner flew at around 30,000 km. The interval is too short. Manufacturer's warranty is 95-100 thousand km. In the store I chose a foreign-made tensioner. I've been using the machine for two months now and I'm happy with the quality.
2.Vasily: at the second technical inspection, the master recommended replacing the tensioner, since the pedal travel exceeded 146 mm at maximum tension. I think the resource is too small.
3.Gennady: the release bearing flew at 60,000 km, which was unexpected, because the replacement interval had not yet arrived.

FakeHeader

Comments 14

I also wanted to get confused, bought the 10th cable, went to the service center, removed the old one and then surprise, the factory cable was 10 cm longer than the 10th (Kalina 1 ’13) and the bummer had to be replaced with a Kalinovsky one.

Like for your efforts. But. For example, I have a stock cable and am quite happy with it, sometimes it clicks once every now and then, but it doesn’t bother me because it happens very rarely. True, I myself re-adjusted it according to the manual and lubricated it, after the adjustment I pressed the pedal several times, the device tightened it and that’s it, I drive, nothing bothers me.

When I was working on getting rid of the squeak, I also wanted to do the same thing (although it can be cheaper to buy both the cable and the fastener at a disassembly) until half a year later nothing creaks. I installed it while there is a spring in the BZ. So far I’m happy with it and another option is to press in another loop and not change the entire cable.

and someone else had another option - remove the machine gun and weld a metal ring to the end of the cable.

you can't weld it to the cable. only if you fill it with tin. Separately solder the cable with acid and then pour it into the tube.

On the pedal side, the cable already has a metal tip with teeth. I saw someone had it welded to it.

I thoroughly lubricated the auto-tensioning mechanism and there was no squeaking or squeaking.

The only inconvenience of the standard clutch for you is clicking, and this is completely normal, does not affect the ride in any way, does not irritate me, an absolutely pointless idea, you will still change to the classic! There's also a gap you can adjust at the bottom, which is cool. Looks like the world has gone crazy! Sorry, I just can’t get my head around this alteration, you’re looking for problems for yourself! On the contrary, they did it well; there is no need to adjust anything during operation. For example, a friend of mine drove a two-wheeler with his leg stuck in the knee due to manual adjustment, until I adjusted everything properly for him, and one wonders why go against real improvement.

So everything started well and ruined everything with the last phrase. It's a pity, it's a pity.

The technique is not suitable for everyone. It won't work like that on a cable car.

The right thing to do! Good job!

Add to favorites, I've been wanting to do the same thing for a long time!

You have an old box with a short cable, on a new (cable) box 2181, there is a longer clutch cable, your method is only suitable for grants with black bumpers where the old box has a rocker.

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