The catalytic converter sooner or later makes itself felt in any car with an internal combustion engine. Then the car owner is faced with a choice: regularly buy a new part or get rid of it once and for all. The Driver News portal tells more about the catalyst and its removal using the example of LADA Granta.
LADA Granta. Photo: Driver News
Cons of Catalyst Removal
When it fails, the CN causes a lot of problems for the owner of the car. A catalytic converter that is coked and clogged with slag creates excessive resistance to exhaust gases, which reduces engine power and significantly increases fuel consumption. It becomes impossible to drive with a faulty catalyst; the car has to be repaired. The car owner has two ways out of the situation:
Removing CN has its disadvantages:
- the CO level in the exhaust gases increases;
- an unpleasant ringing sound appears in the area where the flame arrester or empty can is located;
- depending on the settings of the electronic engine management system, fuel consumption may increase;
- After removing the catalyst in modern fuel systems, the electronics generate errors that need to be corrected.
Summary
According to some motorists, after tuning the car becomes faster, there is no hysterical roar when the revolutions approach 5,000. The exhaust sound has also changed, it has become more pleasant. In most cases, there is a decrease in fuel consumption. The financial component is also very noticeable - installing a 4-2-1 spider costs at least half as much.
Replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester on a VAZ Granta is the most economical way to eliminate problems associated with the catalytic unit. The cost of work starts from 1490 rubles. We offer a large selection of flame arresters from trusted brands. The work is provided with an official guarantee of 1-5 years. If you are planning to replace the catalyst with a flame arrester, come to the RamFlow Exhaust Systems Center from 9:00 to 22:00. We work seven days a week.
Installing a flame arrester instead of a catalyst allows you to:
- increase engine power by increasing the throughput of the exhaust system;
- save money due to the lower cost of flame arresters;
- use fuel with a lower octane number.
Our technicians are ready to remove and programmatically disable the catalyst, select and install a flame arrester, install a fake oxygen sensor and reflash the ECU. Professional equipment and durable components are used for work.
Error after removing catalyst
Many modern electronic engine control systems have various sensors that monitor the composition of the fuel mixture. Oxygen sensors (lambda probes) are always paired with a catalyst, and two sensors are usually installed:
- the first of them stands in front of the catalyst can, it adjusts the fuel supply and sends a signal to the engine control unit;
- the second lambda probe is located after the catalyst, it serves for diagnostics - it determines the qualitative composition of the exhaust gases.
If CI is removed from such an exhaust system, the toxicity of the exhaust gases will be higher than normal, and the diagnostic sensor will give a signal that CO is exceeded in the exhaust tract. The control unit will receive the signal and inform the driver about the error - after removing the catalyst, the Check Engine warning light on the instrument panel will light up.
Service life of the catalytic converter on Lada Granta
The service life of this part depends on many factors. But the main ones are:
- fuel;
- engine condition;
- silicone sealants.
Low-quality gasoline can “kill” the catalyst quite quickly. After all, it will burn out not in the cylinders, but directly inside the honeycomb of the neutralizer, thus its wear will accelerate.
Frequent refueling with such fuel can reduce the service life of this part to 30-60 thousand kilometers.
Another factor is the engine oil and the condition of the engine. The higher the mileage, the higher the likelihood of loss of lubricant in the cylinders. Oil particles that come out through the exhaust clog the catalyst, as they are difficult to burn.
It would not be amiss to talk about the use of sealants in engine repair. Silicone-based sealants enter the combustion chamber and from there into the catalyst. Silicone can quickly damage this part.
On average, a catalytic converter can travel about 100 thousand kilometers.
This means that it is designed to last for the entire service life of the vehicle. However, good fuel and compliance with all operating recommendations can keep the catalyst alive for 150 thousand kilometers.
Fuel consumption after catalyst removal
Many car owners often ask the question: can fuel consumption increase after removing the catalyst? If the catalytic converter was simply cut out, the lambda probe installed after the catalyst insert will signal an error and the ECU will put the fuel system into emergency mode:
- the engine will lose power;
- fuel consumption will increase.
But car repair workers have learned to cheat the system - they reflash the control unit and remove the second lambda probe from the circuit. The electronics “believes” that there is no second sensor in the system, so error information does not appear, and the internal combustion engine operates normally. With the “trick”, fuel consumption after removing the catalyst is almost the same as with a catalytic converter, the only difference is that the emission of toxic substances into the atmosphere with the removed CN increases.
How to check: is it working or not?
The filter component can have three states: working, semi-working and non-working. In the first case, in fact, there are no signs of breakdown - the car is working normally, there are no complaints.
If the neutralizer does not function fully, the following symptoms appear:
- Sometimes (or even always) traction and throttle response disappear at high speeds. It feels as if the car lacks strength or is being held back by something.
- In the morning or when “hot,” the car starts worse. In this case, the engine has to be driven for a long time with the starter.
- Sometimes the revs disappear: the gas is squeezed to the floor, and the tachometer needle barely crawls to 2-4 thousand and freezes. There is also increased fuel consumption.
If the catalyst is completely clogged, it is easy to determine. The car takes a long time to start, and when it finally succeeds, it immediately stalls. The Check Engine light appears on the dashboard and the scanner displays an error code indicating a problem in the exhaust gas exhaust system.
A lit "check" is the first alarm bell.
It is easy to verify that the catalytic converter is not working: you need to go to the exhaust pipe at the moment the engine starts and look (or determine with your hand) whether gases are coming out of it or not.
Flashing after removing the catalyst
When a faulty catalyst is removed from a car’s exhaust system, the car “comes to life” – dynamics appear. In order to remove errors in the ECM (electronic control system), the unit is reflashed for Euro-2. In Russia, such a system still works - environmental standards are not as stringent as in Europe. If the system has only one lambda probe installed on the catalyst (in front of the “can”), flashing the ECU is not required.
Technical features of the insert for Lada Kalina 8V
The industry offers two types of tuning inserts, the design of each of them depends on the location of the pipes. Moreover, each design is designed for a specific power unit:
- Insert 4-1 is installed on forced engines with a speed range from 5,000 to 10,000 rpm. structurally suitable only for 16-valve engines.
- The 4-2-1 insert operates over a wider range and is considered a "low-end" insert. It is possible to increase engine power by about 3-5%. This is the model most often installed on the VAZ 1118.
Since it will not be possible to install a preliminary flame arrester on this VAZ car, you will have to carefully approach the issue of choosing an insert. The installation process of the part will not take much time if you follow all the recommendations.
Smokes after removing catalyst
The catalyst is replaced if it fails and prevents the engine from operating normally. Typically, increased smoke is observed on cars with a faulty converter installed, and after removing the CN, the smoke disappears. However, car owners often complain that the car smokes even after removing the catalyst. There may be several reasons for this phenomenon:
- the firmware has not been re-flashed, and the “fake” has not been installed after removing the CN;
- there is a malfunction in the ECM (one of the sensors does not work), there are problems with the control unit itself;
- piston rings stuck;
- The ignition timing is not adjusted (it is set too late).
If black smoke comes out of the muffler pipe, this means that the fuel mixture is rich and there is excessive fuel consumption. As a rule, clouds of black smoke fly out of the chimney when you sharply press the gas pedal; if you unscrew the spark plugs, they will be covered in black deposits.
In modern systems, the ignition timing is adjusted using diagnostic equipment - laptops, car scanners. The cause of excess fuel consumption and the appearance of black smoke from the muffler may be sensor failure:
- air flow;
- absolute pressure;
- camshaft position.
If unstable engine operation is accompanied by bluish smoke from the muffler, the malfunction is not related to the fuel system and muffler, the cause of the increased smoke should be sought in the piston group:
- overheated or worn piston rings;
- the ring partitions on the pistons burst;
- The valve stem seals need to be replaced.
Installing a spider in a 16-valve car
The sixteen-valve Kalina is equipped with a complex power supply and gas distribution system, so the work carried out will be more labor-intensive. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- removing the terminals from the battery, draining the coolant;
- loosening the clamps securing the air duct pipe and the throttle assembly to the filter;
- the pipe is removed;
- the chip is disconnected from the throttle assembly and oxygen sensor;
- the hose of the crankcase ventilation system is removed;
- the adsorber purge hose is disconnected;
- the receiver mounting bracket is unscrewed;
- the nuts are unscrewed and the receiver is removed;
- unscrew the upper and lower fastening nuts, remove the heat-insulating shield and eye;
- the fastenings of the spacer to the exhaust manifold are twisted;
- the heat shield is removed;
- the intake manifold is dismantled, for which you need to unscrew nine nuts near the block head and three at the exhaust pipe;
- “spider” is mounted;
- the lambda probe wire is extended, a mechanical or electronic snag is installed;
- The elements are assembled in the reverse order.
Replacing a catalyst is a rather complicated process. Inattention during operation can lead to damage to the vehicle's exhaust system and engine wear. Repairs should only be started if you have all the tools and replacement parts.
The catalyst prevents atmospheric pollution with carbon monoxide and other toxic substances. Its service life is not designed for more than 100,000 kilometers of vehicle mileage, so every owner will sooner or later be faced with the need to replace this element. You can replace the catalyst yourself or by contacting a service station. It is important to remember that inept DIY repairs will worsen the problem and cause additional costs in the future.
Sound after catalyst removal
Often, after removing the catalyst, engine operation is accompanied by an unpleasant sound emanating from the exhaust system. The cause of this sound may be:
- hollowness inside the can - the ceramics from the catalyst were cut out, and the iron body was welded and simply installed in place;
- the installed flame arrester is of poor quality, it is too “empty”;
- when removing the catalyst, the housing was poorly welded, it is not airtight, and therefore cuts;
- When installing the flame arrester, the elements of the exhaust system were poorly connected.
In order not to redo the work, it is better to immediately install high-quality flame arresters; a simply welded empty can of catalyst will not last long and will cause the car owner a lot of trouble:
- the smell of exhaust gases will enter the cabin;
- an unpleasant sound will appear under the hood;
- The jar will quickly burn out from the high temperature.
Our centers on the city map
Do you want to inexpensively but efficiently replace the muffler on your Lada Granta? “SPB Muffler” is an urgent replacement of the front, middle and rear parts of the Lada Granta muffler with a 1-year warranty. Sign up for a free diagnostic - our service stations are located in every district of St. Petersburg! The replacement cost is reasonable and the quality far outweighs the price.
How to restore the operation of the muffler if only part of the exhaust system has failed, but you don’t want to buy a completely new one because of the high price?
Replacement (repair) of the front part of the muffler
These are the exhaust pipe (“pants”), the corrugation and the catalyst. The most resistant part of the exhaust system, because less susceptible to mechanical shocks of the road surface and temperature changes.
Signs of a malfunction of the front part: mechanical destruction of the corrugation (the corrugation is also often rubbed against the bottom of the crankcase protection) and the catalyst, a burning smell in the cabin, engine compartment, loss of power, increased fuel consumption.
New Lada: Comparison of Renault Sandero 2 and Kalina. Which is better Lada Kalina or Renault Sandero
The repair consists of installing a new corrugation, replacing the catalyst and soft metal flange O-rings.
Installation (repair) of the middle part of the muffler
This is a resonator designed to pre-muffle the sounds of exhaust gases.
Signs of malfunction: characteristic rattling under the bottom, gas breakthrough, burning of welds and flanges.
The resonator is not repaired, but replaced completely, because its internal structure along with its mineral filler is destroyed. Often the resonator and the rear part of the muffler are one integral part. In this case, we carefully cut out the middle part and weld a new one in an inert gas environment, restoring the tightness.
Replacing (repairing) the rear part of the muffler
This is the visible part of the exhaust system (“can”), the main muffler with a complex internal structure. It fails most often because... susceptible to temperature changes, the effects of “evil” road chemicals in winter and mechanical destruction among those who like to “jump” along curbs.
Signs of a Lada Granta malfunction: a loud “roar”, rattling inside the “can”, destruction of the connecting seams.
Usually the part is replaced with a new one, but sometimes a patch is applied.
It’s convenient to replace a muffler with us: our service centers are located in all districts of St. Petersburg.
We make it profitable to repair or replace a muffler part. What is the price? We know our business well. We do it quickly, efficiently, and the cost is reasonable.
We are reliable: contact us once and forget for a long time. Warranty when replacing exhaust system elements with new ones is 12 months.
Quality and guarantees
All work is carried out using special tools and technologies for dismantling stuck parts. We have a large selection of original and reliable alternative muffler parts in stock. Welding is carried out in an environment of inert gases. At the finish line, check the operation and tightness of the entire exhaust system; if necessary, replace worn-out hangers, clamps, gaskets, and cushions.
The guarantee for such work is 12 months or more.
The rear part of the muffler on Lada Granta cars most often becomes unusable. If we consider the failure of exhaust system parts in chronological order, then the rear muffler burns out first, then the resonator, and lastly the exhaust manifold. It is the rear muffler that we will change in this article.
To carry out this repair we will need the following tools and accessories:
- Penetrating lubricant
- 13 ring wrench
- 13mm socket and ratchet
- Jack
Do-it-yourself catalyst removal
Motorists often ask the question: is it necessary to remove the catalyst? Some drivers believe that making a hole in the KN ceramics adds power to the engine and improves the dynamics of the car. These arguments are incorrect - only the faulty catalyst needs to be removed, if the CO level is normal, it is better not to touch the KN.
You can remove the catalyst yourself, but to complete the work you will need welding equipment and a grinder.
On many modern cars, the main catalyst is welded to the exhaust manifold and is an integral part of it. To remove ceramics from such a CN, you must:
- disconnect the exhaust pipe of the muffler;
- remove the exhaust manifold;
- use a grinder to cut the neutralizer body;
- remove all the insides from the jar;
- weld the housing, install the manifold in place.
It should be taken into account that this measure is temporary; for normal engine operation it is necessary to install a flame arrester, or even better, a new catalyst.
Self-test methods
If you know that your car has a high mileage or you are worried that the fuel you use may someday make itself felt, then it is worth checking once again whether the catalyst is clogged. It is not necessary to visit a service station. Whether the catalyst is clogged or not, you can check it yourself at home. There are several verification methods:
- The simplest method is visual inspection. It will take some effort to get the catalyst out. Because over the period of operation, bolts and nuts can rust and stick to the pipes. Let's assume that we managed to remove it. Since filters take the brunt of cleaning exhaust gases, we check them. The filter should be transparent. If you look from one end of the catalyst, you should see the sky at the other end. But sometimes the other end may be aligned with the exhaust manifold and may not be easy to view. Then we take a flashlight and shine it into the collector. If the light does not pass through, then the catalyst is clogged. Or, after removal, small pieces of metal and other rubbish fall out from inside - this is a sign that the catalytic converter is clogged.
- Checking for catalyst back pressure is the most popular method. To do this, you need to unscrew the oxygen sensor, and in its place screw in a pressure gauge through a special adapter (you can use a tube from the brake system). Having screwed in the pressure gauge, you need to start the engine and check the pressure at different speeds. If at 2500 the device shows 0.3 kgf/cm 3, then this is the norm. A maximum of 0.5 is allowed. If it is more, then this already indicates that the catalyst is clogged. This method has one drawback - unscrewing the oxygen sensor requires effort. Since the bolts become covered with rust during use, it will be difficult to unscrew them.
- Checking the temperature of the catalyst requires a special electronic pyrometer device. This is a thermometer that is designed for remote temperature measurement. So with the help of this device it is necessary to measure the temperature of the catalyst in its different parts. Before checking, you should start the engine and warm it up (driving for about 20 minutes). Using a pyrometer, we check the temperature at the weld and at the place after the “catalyst”. If the temperature in two places is the same, or the temperature at the place after the “catalyst” is less than at the weld, then this means a malfunction;
- The most effective way to determine a malfunction is to measure the pressure using a motor tester. To do this, you need to unscrew one spark plug and screw in a special pressure sensor instead. At various speeds, pressure is measured and the results are analyzed by a motor tester;
- There are other ways to check. You can check for smell without removing the catalyst. If you smell a pungent odor, that's bad.
Notice that the “CHECK ENGINE” sign lights up. This may serve as a signal that the catalyst is clogged
And finally, dear car owners, watch the video on how to check if the catalyst is clogged:
Firmware for EURO2 and snag – what does this mean?
As I wrote above, the second oxygen sensor (lower lambda) controls harmful emissions. Their number is now strictly regulated by European standards, which are called “EURO”; I will not talk about EURO “0-1” now; we are interested in the second generation.
So, what is EURO2 ? It was introduced a long time ago, namely in 1996. AT that time, the cars received an innovative system, namely a catalyst. As we all know, over time it can become clogged, and the fuel then was not the same as now, it had a lot of sulfur, which contributed to the honeycombs clogging much faster, and as you and I know, the car began to choke itself. Then the engineers installed an oxygen sensor, there was only one, and it was needed to capture CO2 in the chamber in front of the catalytic converter.
If the CO2 level increased, this indirectly indicated that the catalyst was clogged (that is, a backpressure effect was manifested); the sensor sent this information to the ECU and the ignition was adjusted, namely, a decrease in the supply of the fuel mixture. Thus, the power dropped significantly, the car did not drive and the owner “willy-nilly” had to go to a service station and change this spare part.
BUT, as you and I know, the price tag is, to put it mildly, HIGH, so many owners simply removed these honeycombs and the POWER RESTORED!
But how? YES, everything is simple, the CO2 level in the chamber in front of the neutralizer dropped significantly, the oxygen sensor recorded this (that everything is in order) and the car drove cheerfully and without constraint. This suited everyone, BUT NOT ECOLOGISTS! Therefore, they introduced the EURO3 standard (now the EURO5 standard already exists). What has changed is that a second oxygen sensor (lower lambda) just appeared behind the catalyst. The principle of operation here is this : the first lambda (before the filter) records the level of harmful substances, the second (after it) should record a much lower level, because the harmful substances have decomposed.
If you remove the catalyst cells , then both sensors will record the same values (“the second one” supplies information to the ECU), thus, CHECK ENGINE will light up, the power will drop, and the car will not drive. Now this doesn't solve the problem.
What is done with firmware for EURO2? The firmware in the ECU is changed, instead of EURO3.4 standards, EURO2 standards are installed. The essence of all these actions is banal - we simply turn off the second lower lambda (only the upper one remains), the car begins to drive as expected, without underestimating the power.
Review of manufacturers, cost of oxygen sensors
| Catalog Article/sensor number | Price, rub.) | Resource (Thousand km) |
| Catalog number of the control sensor 21074-3850010-00 | From 2600 | 70- 75 |
| Diagnostic sensor 2 21074-3850010-00 | From 2600 | 70 — 75 |
| Lambda probe NGK 95801 Code: 0000-749176 | From 2800 - 2900 | 70 — 85 |
| BOSCH 0 258 006537 | —/— | —/— |
| BOSCH 0 258 986 602 | —/— | —/— |
| BOSCH 0 280 218 116 | —/— | —/— |
| BREMI 30223 | —/— | —/— |
| ERA 570023 | —/— | —/— |
| FENOX SD10100O7 | From 3100 – 3300 | —/— |
| FENOX AM28116C3 | —/— | —/— |
| DENSO DOX-0150 | —/— | —/— |
| PIERBURG 7.22701.08.0 | —/— | —/— |
| DENSO DOX-0150 | —/— | —/— |
| STELLOX 20-00028-SX | —/— | —/— |
| STELLOX 20-00022-SX | —/— | —/— |
| STELLOX 20-00020-SX | —/— | —/— |
| PATRON HZ-30301006-0042 | —/— | —/— |
| ERA 570023 | —/— | —/— |
| NGK 5653 | —/— | —/— |
| NGK 1628 | —/— | —/— |
*prices are current as of November 6, 2018.
Advice from car experts on choosing and purchasing
When choosing a catalyst for the Lada Granta, questions often arise regarding the manufacturer. Car mechanics strongly recommend installing original spare parts . It is ideal for the car and will last much longer than its analogues. But it is expensive. Therefore, not everyone can afford to buy a new original catalyst for Grant.
There are many stores in Russia today where you can purchase new spare parts for the Lada Granta. Not all of them are reliable, conscientious and sell really high-quality goods. It is important to make a purchase from a trusted store. Its signs are the following:
- Availability of a license to engage in trading activities.
- Availability of quality certificates for the goods sold.
- Issuance of a warranty certificate for sold spare parts.
- Good reputation, positive customer reviews.
You can also order a catalyst for Grants in the online store. But we must remember that among them there are often scammers. To avoid becoming a victim of scammers, you should follow these tips:
- Read reviews about the selected online store on the forums. Ask fellow motorists if they have already purchased any parts from this store.
- Do not transfer money to the seller until you actually receive the goods.
- Please inspect the delivered item before paying. It must be new in appearance, without any defects, and have accompanying documentation.
Source
