Clutch adjustment gazelle business engine 4216

30.12.2019

Issues discussed in the material:

• How to install a clutch disc: step-by-step instructions
• Which side is the right way to place the clutch disc?
• How to install the clutch disc correctly: the opinion of motorists

As you know, a manual transmission is characterized by fairly high reliability and unpretentiousness. As a rule, even for a careful driver who knows how to drive a manual transmission, the clutch lasts on average 100–120 thousand km. In the future, the release bearing fails, and problems with the clutch disc and basket may arise. If the car is used actively and aggressively, then the clutch can be scorched and damaged much earlier. And a reasonable question arises: how to install the clutch disc?

Replacing the clutch itself is not an extremely complicated procedure, but it does require certain skills and tools. Also, during the installation process, some owners do not know how to install the clutch correctly. Next, we will look at the nuance of how to install the clutch disc when replacing it.

How to install a clutch disc: step-by-step instructions

The main task of the clutch is to ensure smooth gear changes. The car starts moving as carefully as possible, the transmission and engine operate without significant loads, thanks to which they remain in working condition for a long time. Since the clutch is subject to great forces, replacement is carried out regularly: after 100 thousand km. Signs that it is time to change the clutch disc include these changes:

• slip;
• incomplete disengagement of the clutch;
• difficult gear shifting;
• tight clutch pedal (possible sagging);
• lack of traction in a vehicle, especially a truck.

It is not recommended to change the part yourself if the car enthusiast has little understanding of the car’s configuration and has never carried out the installation himself. A poorly mounted clutch disc will not work properly and the unit will have to be disassembled again.

How to install the clutch disc correctly

Most often, installing a new clutch basket is required, but sometimes just replacing the disc is enough. The process itself does not cause difficulties, but most car enthusiasts have a question: how to install the clutch disc? This task can be performed in 2 ways:

• with preliminary removal of the gearbox;
• without removing the gearbox.

The second option is the simplest and fastest, and if the car is equipped with rear-wheel drive, even an inexperienced driver can handle the task. With front-wheel drive the situation is more complicated, but replacement is still possible.

To install the clutch yourself, the car is placed in the garage on an overpass or pit. Before installation, stops are placed under the tires to prevent the car from moving.

Clutch disc: how to install correctly?

Replacement steps

The entire installation and dismantling of the clutch disc takes place in several stages:

1. The cardan and working cylinder are detached from the gearbox. Then the limit switches of the electrical wiring of the reverse signal switch are turned off.
2. Using a spanner, unscrew the bolts holding the KCP cushion. The pillow itself is dismantled.
3. The PCP is moved a considerable distance from the motor, while the switch is tightly close to the bottom. This is necessary so that the transmission is located on the inlet pipe of the exhaust system. To do this, the gearbox is supported by a jack or a special support.
4. The flywheel is dismantled and the 6 bolts holding the clutch basket are unscrewed. The crankshaft must be rotated regularly to ensure easy access to the bolts.
5. The clutch basket is moved into the emerging shaft to make it easier to dismantle the part. To remove the basket, it must be moved towards the engine. After which the fork and release bearing are dismantled.
6. To install the clutch, all the above steps are carried out in reverse order. The bearing hole of the gearbox input shaft is lubricated. The area with which the clamping part is in contact is wiped with a cloth.

What you need to know when replacing

During installation, the driven disk is centered relative to the axis of the crankshaft. The best rule is that the input shaft is splined. If the installation is carried out correctly, it is quickly and easily pulled out.

The bolts holding the casing are screwed in with equal load, otherwise it will move. On the side of the casing there are rectangular recesses into which 3 pressure plate hubs will fit. This structure will ensure maximum high-quality transmission of torque to the element. Also, it is better to move it relative to the axis when the clutch is disengaged.

18 springs are installed in pairs between the pressure plate and the casing. Each element has coils directed in different directions. This is necessary so that the structure always works smoothly. All springs belong to the same category so that the working disk does not warp under the required force.

Section of a splined shaft and bushing with a straight-sided profile

Washers are installed to prevent the springs from overheating when the clutch slips. The washers are made of compressed asbestos, as it can withstand sudden temperature changes and has good thermal conductivity.

Also, cone-shaped springs and spherical nuts are installed on the ends of the tail forks. All this creates the effect of the mechanism rolling, which is required when leveling the distance between the axles and when retracting the clutch disc.

The following malfunctions may occur in the clutch basket:

1. The petals (otherwise known as pressure plates) may break;
2. The pressure plate may be subject to wear;
3. Rivets and fasteners may become worn and play may increase.

Basically, when repairing a clutch, the faulty element is always replaced. It should be clarified that experts in this field recommend replacing the clutch basket together with the driven disk, as well as the release bearing. This must be done due to the fact that the clutch part is constantly subject to loads, as well as uniform wear. Therefore, we can conclude that if you replace only one clutch basket, you will still have to replace the driven disk, and after that the release bearing. And when any clutch repair operation is performed, removal of the gearbox is a mandatory factor for this. The only exception is adjustment work.

Thus, we can conclude that it is much wiser to replace the entire assembly at once. Of course, much depends on how the driver drives in the trouble-free operation of the clutch, as well as in correctly made adjustments. In addition, you should not install a clutch basket on your vehicle, which was produced in an unknown place, as people sometimes say, “in artisanal conditions.” You need to purchase car parts only from trusted and good companies. At the moment, the best manufacturers of clutch baskets have proven themselves to be: Kraft, MecArm, SACHS, VIS (Vazinterservice) and LuK.

Steering wheel beating or vibration after repair

Oddly enough, beating of the steering wheel or the entire car can occur immediately after a car service. If the problem is discovered after manipulations affecting the chassis, it is logical to look for the root cause in repairs.

Most often, the sudden appearance of vibrations when braking at high speed is preceded by the installation of new parts:

• brake rotor;
• hub assembly, including a new bearing.

In most cases, this is due to the use of defective spare parts; less often, the cause is poor-quality installation of parts.

If the steering wheel or the entire car begins to shake after repairing the chassis, you should contact the car service center where the work was carried out.

Steering wheel shakes when braking

The VAZ-2170 (like many other models) has front disc brakes. Therefore, it is worth considering possible problems in this case. When the steering wheel shakes when braking at speed, there are three reasons. These are crooked wheels, worn brake discs or wheel bearings. If the brake disc is curved, then the pad will follow the shape of this surface. Thus, due to the curvature, the wheel rotates unevenly. This happens due to great inertia. If you start to rock the wheel, it will resist. At speed this resistance is especially high. Therefore, vibrations are felt both on the steering wheel and on the pedals.

Clutch faults VAZ 2107

The main signs of a faulty VAZ 2107 clutch are:

• it is difficult to change gears;
• the driven disk slips;
• vibration appears;
• The pressure bearing whistles;
• the clutch is hard to disengage;
• The pedal does not return from the lower position.

Destruction of the pressure plate and basket casing can lead to very serious consequences

Almost any malfunction is accompanied by extraneous sounds - noise, knocking, whistling, etc.

Gears won't shift

If the gears are difficult to shift, an experienced driver will immediately tell that the clutch is moving. In other words, the clutch does not disengage completely. As a result, when starting from a stop, it is difficult to engage first gear, and when the pedal is pressed, the car moves slowly. The reasons for this situation may be:

• Increased distance between the thrust bearing support surface and the heel of the basket. It must be set within 4–5 mm, changing the length of the working cylinder rod.
• The spring sectors of the driven disk are warped. The disk needs to be replaced with a new one.
• The thickness of the driven disk has increased due to the stretching of the rivets securing the friction linings. The disk needs to be replaced with a new one.
• Jamming of the driven disk on the splines of the gearbox drive shaft. Both parts are defective and, if necessary, replaced with new ones.
• Lack of brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir or accumulation of air bubbles in the hydraulic drive system. The working fluid is added to the required level, and the clutch hydraulics are pumped.

The clutch is slipping

The clutch may start to slip for the following reasons:

• there is no gap between the pressure bearing and the fifth basket;
• the clutch drive is not adjusted;
• oil got on the rubbing surfaces;
• the bypass channel in the main cylinder body is clogged;
• The clutch pedal does not return to its original position.

Such malfunctions are eliminated by adjusting the drive, replacing oil seals, cleaning the channel with wire, and identifying and correcting the causes of pedal sticking.

Clutch is jerky

If the clutch starts to jerk, it may be caused by the following:

• the driven disk is jammed on the splines of the gearbox drive shaft;
• oily areas have formed on the friction linings;
• the clutch hydraulic drive is not adjusted;
• the steel disk of the basket is warped, some friction springs have lost their elasticity;
• The driven disk is faulty.

In such situations, a complete clutch replacement is most often required.

Noise when engaging clutch

The appearance of grinding and rattling noises when releasing the clutch pedal may be due to the following:

• the pressure bearing is jammed due to lack of lubrication;
• The gearbox drive shaft bearing is jammed in the flywheel.

In both cases, the problem is solved by replacing the bearing.

Noise when disengaging the clutch

When you press the clutch pedal, you hear a knocking, clanging, rattling sound, and you can feel vibration on the gear lever. The reasons may be the following:

• the damper part of the driven disk (springs, sockets) is faulty;
• The splined connection of the driven disk and the gearbox drive shaft is badly worn;
• the return spring of the clutch fork has become detached, lost its elasticity or broken.

In all cases, worn elements should be replaced with new ones.

The pedal returns but the clutch does not work

Sometimes it happens that the clutch does not work, but the pedal returns to its original position. This may be due to the following situations:

• air entering the hydraulic drive system;
• wear of the sealing rings of the main and working cylinders;
• lack of working fluid in the tank.

In these cases, you should bleed the hydraulic drive, replace the rubber rings with new ones and add working fluid to the reservoir.

Tight grip

The softness of the clutch is determined by the force of pressure on the heel of the basket to retract the pressure plate. The magnitude of the force depends on the elasticity of the damper springs. Baskets from many manufacturers, including foreign ones, are suitable for the VAZ 2107 clutch. A tight pedal signals to the driver that the basket's life is coming to an end.

The pedal disengages the clutch at the beginning/end of its stroke

When you press the pedal, the clutch may disengage at the very beginning or, conversely, at the very end. In such situations, adjustment of the free and working travel of the pedal will be required. The free stroke is regulated by changing the length of the pedal limit screw, and the working stroke is regulated by changing the length of the working cylinder rod. In addition, increased free play may be a consequence of wear on the driven disk linings.

Replacing cylinders

• Replacing the clutch master cylinder is necessary if installing new O-rings does not improve system performance.
• Replacing the clutch slave cylinder is necessary if brake fluid continues to leak even after installing new seals.

b - working cylinder pusher

To remove the slave cylinder, remove the spring that returns the fork when the pedal is released. Next, remove the 2 nuts that secure the slave cylinder to the transmission housing. Holding the working cylinder suspended, unscrew the rubber hose that fits it.

To avoid brake fluid leakage, immediately screw the new slave cylinder to the hose. To remove the master cylinder, pump out all the fluid from the reservoir. Unscrew the fitting with the copper tube that goes into the cylinder and close it with a rubber plug to prevent brake fluid from leaking out. Move the tube to the side so it is out of the way, then unscrew the two nuts securing the master cylinder to the car body. Pull towards you and unclip the joint to which the pedal is connected. Pull out the pin and disconnect the cylinder from the pedal. Install the master and slave cylinders in the reverse order. Don't forget to adjust the length of the rod that pushes the clutch fork.

Master cylinder

After installing new cylinders, pour new brake fluid into the reservoir and be sure to bleed the clutch. To do this, put a rubber tube on the valve and lower it into a transparent container, pour brake fluid into it, then ask him to smoothly press/release the pedal 4 times. After this, ask to press the pedal again and not let go without your command. When the assistant presses the pedal for the fifth time, unscrew the valve to drain the fluid. Then tighten the valve, and then ask an assistant to release the pedal. It is necessary to pump the clutch until you are sure that the fluid comes out without air. Add brake fluid to the reservoir in a timely manner so that the cylinder does not suck air. If the brake fluid level drops too much, re-bleeding will be required.

Gazelle clutch: which one to choose

Today you can find products from various manufacturers on sale. However, some clutch kits are soft and smooth, but may have a shorter service life, while others operate more harshly, but handle loads better and last longer.

Different manufacturers independently determine the number of springs. The material used to make the friction linings may also differ, there may be unique manufacturing features for the release bearing, etc.

If we talk about the clutch manufacturers themselves, SACHS, LUK and VALEO are considered to be the market leaders. The Sachs clutch is traditionally considered reliable and durable, but some complain about being too stiff.

The LUK company is famous for its high-quality baskets, which allows full transmission of torque and ensures sufficient softness of the mechanism. The VALEO clutch is soft, the comfort is high, but the service life is somewhat reduced.

Let us also add that when designing a clutch assembly, the world's leading manufacturers separately take into account the power of the internal combustion engine, the operating features of the gearbox, the drive axle gearbox, etc. At the same time, cheaper analogues from unknown manufacturers may be of significantly worse quality or manufactured without taking into account certain characteristics and indicators.

For this reason, it is better to choose clutches from well-known brands, even taking into account the high cost. Otherwise, the mechanism may fail, for example, after 15-20 thousand km, and not after 80-90 thousand.

Clutch selection

When purchasing a new clutch kit for the VAZ 2107, experts recommend being guided by the following criteria. When assessing the driven disk:

• the surface of the linings must be smooth and uniform, without scoring, cracks or chips;
• all rivets on the disk must be the same size and located at an equal distance from each other;
• there should be no oil stains on the disc;
• there should be no play in the places where the linings and springs are attached;
• The manufacturer's logo must be applied to the product in one way or another.

When choosing a basket, you should pay attention to the following points:

• the casing must be stamped, without cuts or scratches;
• the surface of the disk must be smooth and uniform, without cracks or chips;
• the rivets must be identical and strong.

The most popular brands are the following.

1. Valeo (France), specializing in the production of excellent quality brake system elements.
   The characteristic features of the Valeo clutch are soft operation with a clear engagement moment, reliability, and long service life (more than 150 thousand kilometers). However, such a clutch is not cheap. The Valeo clutch is characterized by soft operation with a clear engagement moment
2. Luk (Germany). The quality of the Luk clutch is close to Valeo, but costs a little less. The good damping properties of Luk products are noted.
3. Kraft (Germany). However, production is concentrated in Turkey. The Craft clutch features soft operation without overheating and reliable flywheel protection.
4. Sachs (Germany). The company specializes in the production of transmission parts. The use of asbestos-free linings in the manufacture of clutch discs made Sachs very popular in Russia.

The choice of clutch should be approached comprehensively and the choice should be made after examining the product and receiving expert advice.

Which side to place the clutch disc towards the engine? How to do it correctly?

Which side should the clutch disc be placed towards the engine? Which is correct?

I have my own sad experience of incorrectly installing the flywheel disc, when I assembled everything and at the first start there was no clutch at all, and even grinding sounds were heard. I had to remove the box again and change the disk side. Technically, this is what happened:

The disc hub rested against the flywheel support bearing, and the damper springs rested against the flywheel mounting bolts. Because of this, a gap of several millimeters has formed between the disc and the flywheel (that’s right - the working part of the clutch disc should fit snugly against the working surface of the flywheel)

The basket pressed on the disk from the reverse side, which led to the disk being pinched between the basket and the flywheel. Even when the clutch was depressed, the release bearing did not do its job, and the clutch disc remained clamped, but torque was transmitted from the engine through the clamped hub and the damper spring housing.

What should you do to avoid mistakes when installing the clutch disc? There are three ways:

1) Some manufacturers mark the sides of the disk, which side should face, with inscriptions on the damper spring housing. Depending on the country of destination or production, the words will be in different languages.

The gearbox side is marked with the following words - GEARBOX SIDE, PP, Getriebeseite, GB SIDE, TRANS SIDE, T/M SIDE

The internal combustion engine side is marked with the following words - COTE VOLANT, FLYWHEEL SIDE, ENGINE SIDE, MOTOR SIDE, FW SIDE, SCHWUNGRAD-SEITE

2) Empirically, i.e. Apply the disk with different sides to the flywheel and see which side will lie better over the entire surface and will not cling to anything. But this option can lead down the wrong path, since some clutch discs have almost the same hub offset and, regardless of the side of contact, will not cling.

3) The best way to determine the side when there is no marking is to inspect the clutch disc itself, it is best to use a measuring tool (caliper - Columbian)

Here is the side from the gearbox side, it should lie tightly on the basket, as you can see, on this side the hub sticks out.

And in the basket there is a special opening for the housing of the damper springs, and the springs themselves are 75 percent placed towards the basket (gearbox)

But on the internal combustion engine side, the springs protrude less, by 25 percent, the body is seated almost flush with the working part (feredo), the hub practically does not protrude.

By the way, here is the inscription “FLYWHEEL SIDE”, meaning that the side is directed towards the flywheel (engine)

Adjusting the double-disc clutch basket using a caliper

There is a ring on the paws. Adjusting the double-disc clutch of a Kamaz vehicle requires correctly setting the distance from the outer plane of the pressure ring to the clutch disc. The double-disc clutch is adjusted using a caliper. It is necessary to measure from the metal plane of the disk to the outer plane of the pressure ring.

Many people try to do this from the disc hub. But it's not right. And there are no such sizes. The lock washer on each leg is unscrewed. It is closed with a lid that is attached to two bolts at each adjusting nut. Rotating this nut raises or lowers the clutch tab. The gap is set this way. So that the ring is removed from the disk at the same distance. That is, when rotating the adjusting nuts, the disk must be perfectly level.

Factory distance

The factory default distance from the clutch disc to the top plane of the pressure ring is 65 mm. The clutch works perfectly. All operating angles are observed when the clutch fork is pressed onto the release bearing. The clutch operates smoothly. The clutch pedal is adjustable. The clearance on the PSU rod is also easy to set.

Desired distance

Kamaz is used in agriculture. Removing crops from the fields. It is almost impossible to leave the field without setting the clutch on fire. The disc wears out quickly. Therefore, other car models will not appear in the fields for a long time.

When the clutch disc wears out, the paws come out to meet the release bearing. This increases the gap from the disk to the upper plane of the ring. Therefore, when adjusting, it is necessary to take this into account. And make the gap a little smaller. The best option is 62 mm.

At 62mm, the clutch is also highly adjustable. And the difference from 65 mm is almost invisible. But we still have a margin of 3 mm, which will extend the operation of the clutch until the ring rests the release bearing on the gearbox housing. In this case, the clutch will soon stop working.

Undesirable distance

They say on the Internet. That the optimal size is 57 mm is not true. I tried. At the owner's insistence. He failed to immediately prove the opposite. What happened. The clutch released well. But it became impossible to move off without a jerk. The release bearing fork is in the most extreme position. And when the pedal was released, there was a sharp release of the release pedal. The position of the fork when the clutch is depressed should look like this.

And at 57 mm it became like this.

The fork ends up facing the release lever. Smooth release of the release lever became impossible. There are two options left: either wait until the disk is erased. And the paws will come out on their own. But this will most likely damage the gearbox. Or adjust the clutch locally. This is possible although very inconvenient.

Quick clutch replacement on a VAZ 2115

When is it necessary to replace the clutch on domestic cars? This should be done when the clutch begins to slip while pressing the pedal and after extraneous sounds or squeaks appear. To replace the clutch on a car, you will need an alignment mandrel. It is necessary to change two disks at once: driven and pressure, and you also need to immediately replace the release bearing. To carry out this work, it is necessary to remove the gearbox. Don't forget about the marks; the position of the basket will need to be marked in the flywheel. Take a 8mm wrench and unscrew the 6 bolts securing the basket to the flywheel.

The flywheel will most likely turn on a VAZ 2115, 2114, 2113, so it will need to be held with an assembly. The bolts are completely removed, all that remains is to remove the basket and driven disk.

You need to look at the protrusion of the release bearing clutch, there is a small spring there that needs to be removed, this needs to be done using a regular screwdriver. Now there is a good opportunity to pull out the release bearing along with the clutch; you need to remove the structure and spring. The condition of the clutch release fork must be carefully inspected and at the same time inspect the condition of the adjacent bushing. If they are worn out, then all parts must be replaced with new ones.

Do not forget that the plug is located inside a rubber cover, which performs a protective function. When replacing the VAZ 2115, 2114, 2113 clutch, you need to carefully remove the plastic fork bushing from the crankcase hole, move the lever axis and move the lower end from its place, so the clutch release fork can be easily pulled out.

All parts must be thoroughly washed in a special container with kerosene; after washing, their condition must be inspected. You cannot replace damaged parts, because after some time they will completely fail and thus other structural parts may break, and this will entail expensive repairs of many clutch parts. We carefully remove the old grease, the gearbox shaft needs to be cleaned and washed, at the same time this can be done with the bearing bushing. You need to buy a special lubricant called CV joint-4 and apply it in a thin layer.

Now everything needs to be put back together: we fix the clutch spring on the crankcase, press in the release bearing and fork, everything needs to be done in the reverse order of removal. New lubricant must be applied to the surface. A centering mandrel must be inserted into the end of the crankshaft. On top of the mandrel you need to insert the driven disc of the VAZ 2115, 2114, 2113 clutch.

The disc must be installed so that the side on which the hub protrudes the most is directed towards the gearbox

After this, you need to install the basket in its original place; at this stage, the robot needs to pay attention to the marks, which should coincide with the marks on the flywheel. Now we take an 8 wrench and tighten 6 fastening bolts and this work must be done evenly, the tightening torque is from 2 to 3 kgf/m. The support must be removed and the gearbox must be installed in place.

When the assembly is completely completed, you need to check the functionality of the clutch

The support must be removed and the gearbox must be installed in place. When the assembly is completely completed, you need to check the functionality of the clutch.

Replacing the cable

The cable replaced the hydraulic clutch. Higher reliability, low maintenance requirements and low price made the cable very popular. The cable must be changed if the mileage has exceeded 150 thousand kilometers or more than 10 years have passed since the previous replacement. Replacing the clutch cable is not difficult even for an inexperienced driver. Release the fork from the return spring, then remove the cable. After this, unpin the connection and remove the cable from the pedal. Pull out the pin, then remove the old cable through the interior. Install the new cable in the same way. This completes the replacement of the clutch cable. The cable must be changed if even slight damage is found on it. If this is not done, the cable will break while driving, making it impossible to change gears.

Replacing the release bearing

The mileage of the release bearing should not exceed 150 thousand kilometers. In addition, replacement of the release bearing will be required if the gears begin to shift indistinctly or if there is noise when pressing the clutch pedal. The procedure for replacing the release bearing is described in detail in the article replacing the release bearing.

Clutch is more than just smooth gear shifting

First, let's look at why a clutch is needed at all and what work it does. As a rule, all knowledgeable people will say the same thing. The clutch is needed to ensure smooth engagement of the gearbox speeds, and for this purpose it temporarily disconnects the engine from the gearbox. Thus, the car engine is not overloaded, and gear shifts occur smoothly. In addition, thanks to this mechanism, rapid wear of engine and gearbox parts is prevented. It is clear that the engine is not overloaded when changing gears, and there are also no overloads that arise due to the rotation of engine parts when the crankshaft speed suddenly slows down.

In addition, if the car’s clutch is working properly, then the car will always move off smoothly and unpleasant situations will not arise when starting under a traffic light, or indeed when changing gears

Well, this is very important to know: if you don’t treat the clutch properly, it can also be subject to premature wear. In particular, with a rather aggressive driving style, this vehicle mechanism receives loads that affect its wear.

The device should be handled with care to avoid frequent problems in the future.

What you need to know

The release bearing is not the weakest link in the clutch system, but for some reason it is the one that causes problems and troubles.

coupling

Some car owners have gotten used to the whistle and simply ignore it. But this cannot continue for long, since untimely solution to the problem can lead to even more complex and expensive repairs. If the situation gets worse, then a simple replacement will not be enough for you.

The clutch serves to act on the leaf spring of the clutch basket. It is also called diaphragm, so don't be confused if you hear this designation. Due to this impact, the driven disk is disconnected from the flywheel and the pressure plate of the basket. This disengages the clutch.

If the squeezer is faulty, this can lead to various consequences:

• The clutch fork will be damaged;
• The integrity of the clutch spring petals will be compromised;
• The guide bushings are deformed.

In order not to pay twice, or even three times, promptly react to the appearance of a whistle in the clutch and try to quickly take action.

Adjusting the double-disc clutch without removing the gearbox

The upper hatch of the clutch housing allows you to do this. The stoppers are removed one by one from the adjusting nuts. Then the paws are released. Through the hatch you can see the gap between the ring and the release bearing. The release bearing must be moved away from the basket. The lever on which the PSU rod presses must take a vertical position. In this position, the PSU operates correctly and is easily adjusted. The plane of the release bearing will become clearly visible. After this, the paws are brought in. You can use a wire with a diameter of 3 m. Insert it between the ring and the release ring. When bringing the paws in, the wire should not be pinched too much. It’s not convenient to adjust each foot this way. But much easier than removing the gearbox.

Therefore, if the question arises about how to properly adjust the clutch, I do not recommend setting the gap to 57 mm.

Additional adjustments

The rest of the Kamaz clutch adjustment consists of maintaining the gaps between the release bearing and the pressure ring. It is 1.5 - 3 mm. The gap is adjusted by moving the PSU rod. The lock nut unscrews and the rod rotates. Here it is not necessary to go to the release bearing and measure the clearance on it. It is enough that a slight play appears on the release fork rod. You can hear the release fork hitting the ring. When pressing the fork.

Adjusting the free play of the clutch pedal is to ensure that there is a gap between the rod and the piston in the clutch master cylinder. It is also 1.5 – 3 mm. If the gap is larger, the PSU rod will not fully come out and depress the clutch. If the rod presses on the clutch master cylinder piston. The cylinder will stop working. And the clutch will not be depressed. These are the main points of adjustment on a double-disc clutch.

Let's move on to replacement

Now let's move on to the most important thing in this article, that is, the replacement itself. Before you begin the process, you need to arm yourself with the necessary tools

In particular, you need to prepare:

• a pry bar or a long thick screwdriver;
• tenth size wrench or socket;
• a special mandrel that will help straighten the driven disk. By the way, such a mandrel is sold in a specialized store, or you can use the gearbox input shaft instead, removing the gears from it.

First of all, before installing the clutch disc, you need to dismantle the gearbox. But again, we must not forget that replacing a disk can be done in different ways. For example, replacing the clutch on front-wheel drive cars is much more difficult than on rear-wheel drive cars. And besides this, each make or model of car may have its own nuances when replacing this part.

Video on how to replace the clutch:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=jhpohw9qgJE

What does it mean? And the fact is that, before starting the replacement process, you should read the clutch replacement instructions provided by the manufacturer. You can also use special forums for information, where those who have independently changed the clutch disc of a car of a certain make or model give useful advice.

Important points

When replacing the clutch, it is necessary to pay close attention not only to the condition of the discs, but also to the condition of the release bearing, which was mentioned above. After removing it, you need to turn it several times by hand.

If rotation is difficult or a creaking or crackling sound is heard during scrolling, then the bearing needs to be replaced. If this is not done, all the work on replacing the clutch discs will be useless, since they will again become unusable. The gearbox shaft and adjacent parts should be cleaned of dirt very carefully; it is best to wash everything with kerosene and wipe dry with a clean rag. The above is a method for replacing the clutch with complete removal of the gearbox. But sometimes car enthusiasts do without removal. To do this, the bolts that secure the box to the engine are carefully unscrewed (one at a time). In their place, studs are installed, which are slightly thinner and at least three times longer than the mounting bolts. These pins serve as guides along which the box can be moved slightly to the side. This creates a gap between the engine and the gearbox, through which the clutch discs are removed. This method is less labor-intensive, but it has its drawbacks: it will be impossible to get to the release bearing and it will not be possible to thoroughly clean the gearbox shaft from dirt.

As you can see from this article, replacing a clutch is a very labor-intensive operation. Therefore, it is necessary to follow the proposed instructions exactly. You should also not forget about safety precautions, especially when it comes to removing the gearbox. This is a very heavy unit and you should be extremely careful when handling it.

Replacing the clutch and fork on a Gazelle car with your own hands

1. Replacing the Gazelle clutch
2. Replacing the clutch fork
3. Replacement video

Replacing the clutch of a Gazelle car is required quite often, as it is a vulnerable point. The machine is mainly intended for business, the components and assemblies of which always operate under load. Therefore, the service life of the parts is limited; on average, the clutch requires replacement every 50–70 thousand kilometers. As a rule, it changes as a set (pressure disk, driven disk, release bearing).

Gazelle business clutch replacement

Replacing the clutch of Gazelle business model cars is not difficult to do. To do this, you just need the appropriate tool. Work must be performed on a car lift or in a pit.

You can replace the disk or the entire set yourself. For example, let's take a Gazelle with a ZMZ 40524 engine (it is from the ZMZ 406 engine family).

We put the car in the pit and first of all remove the gearshift lever. Before removing the lever, it must be set to the neutral position. Raise the rubber casing.

We find the cone nut, unscrew it and pull out the lever.

We make marks on the driveshaft and rear axle shank.

Marks are made in order to place the shaft in the same position during assembly. If the “cardan” is not placed according to the marks, vibration may occur.

Then unscrew the gearbox yoke (8 bolts along the edges) and pull out the shaft. Before removing the driveshaft, it is advisable to drain the gearbox oil.

• We disconnect the wires going to the gearbox;
• We disconnect the fastening of the gearbox bracket to the exhaust pipe of the muffler;
• We completely remove the gearbox traverse, do this carefully, since the engine and gearbox will go down;
• Then we unscrew the nuts securing the gearbox itself and dismantle it.

We unscrew the fastening of the clutch slave cylinder, move the cylinder to the side, and remove the fork. We dismantle the clutch housing (“bell”), first the lower aluminum housing amplifier, then the housing itself.

Unscrew the six bolts on the basket. Everything has been taken apart.

We take a new set - basket, disk, release bearing, and begin assembly. In order to install the gearbox without problems, the driven disk must be centered, and then the “basket” bolts must be tightened. The bolts need to be tightened evenly in a circle, and not immediately on one side. For alignment, you can use a special mandrel or any input shaft of the Gazelevskaya or Volgovskaya gearbox. The shaft will fit even a 4-speed gearbox.

Then we assemble everything further in reverse order. It is convenient to immediately put the release bearing on the flange of the input shaft of the box, having previously placed a sponge soaked in thick lubricant under it. The sponge can be soaked in transmission oil.

To fasten the gearbox yoke alone, you will need to jack up the gearbox; it is more convenient to do this operation together. After assembly, you should fill the gearbox with oil, checking the oil level using the control plug on the side. That's all - the clutch disc has been replaced.

Clutch replacement

Complete replacement of the clutch kit involves the following procedure:

• removal and installation of manual transmission;
• replacement:
• disk;
• baskets;
• master and slave cylinders (if any);
• cable;
• release bearing.

Removing and installing the box

Technologies for removing and installing manual transmissions on cars with rear-wheel drive and front-wheel drive are different. On rear-wheel drive vehicles, it is necessary to disconnect the clutch connecting the manual transmission to the driveshaft. On front-wheel drive vehicles, you will need to remove the drive shafts and insert plugs in their place. After this, disconnect the cables or links of the gear selection device, unscrew the fastening nuts, then remove the gearbox input shaft from the bearing in the engine flywheel.

Be sure to check the condition of the gear selector seal. Oil stains in the area of ​​the rod indicate oil seal wear.

When installing, it is necessary to rotate the box shaft so that it fits into the flywheel splines. When removing or installing a manual transmission on vehicles with all-wheel drive or a large engine capacity, use a winch. After installing the manual transmission on the car, it is necessary to adjust the length of the rod that presses the fork.

Spare parts for trucks

Full model range: GAZ-3307, 53, GAZ-3309, GAZ-66, 3308, 33081, 33086, GAZ-33104

Car clutch GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko for diesel engine

The clutch of the GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko (diesel engine D-245) is permanently closed, single-disk, dry, with a central pressure diaphragm spring and a damper device on the driven disk. Pressure disk 19 (Fig. 1) is connected to casing 10 by three groups of plates.

The clutch and release mechanism of the GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko are located in the clutch housing 21, which is attached to the rear sheet of the engine with ten nuts 16 studs and a bolt, under which conical spring washers 15 are installed with the convex side to the nuts and the bolt head.

Centering the clutch housing relative to the axis of the engine crankshaft is carried out using two pins 20 pressed into the clutch housing. On the clutch housing there are 6 brackets for the rear engine mounts, which are secured with 5 bolts.

Rice. 1. Clutch GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko (diesel engine D-245)

1 flywheel; 2, 5 - bolts; 3 - fork; 4 — rear cushion; 6 — rear engine mount bracket; 7 — protective ring; 8 — clutch; 9 — rivet of the friction lining; 10 - casing; 11 — support ring; 12, 20 — pins; 13 - bearing; 14 — gearbox input shaft; 15 — washer; 16 - nut; 17 — driven disk; 18 — disc pressure spring; 19 — pressure disk; 21 — clutch housing

There is no gap between the pressure spring 18 and the clutch bearing 8, so the inner ring of the bearing rotates at the engine crankshaft speed. During operation, the clutch does not require adjustments.

The clutch control drive for GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko is hydraulic. The clutch master cylinder 15 (Fig. 2), mounted on the front panel of the cab, is actuated by the suspended pedal 20.

The master cylinder of the GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko clutch is connected by a hose 2 to one of the sections of the three-section supply tank 1, equipped with an alarm sensor for an emergency drop in the brake fluid level (the other two sections of the tank supply the hydraulic drive of the dual-circuit service brake system).

Rice. 2. Clutch drive of GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko cars

B - compensation hole; G - bypass hole; 1 - supply tank; 2 - supply hose; 3, 18 — fittings; 4, 23 — protective caps; 5, 24 — pushers; 6.33 — bushings; 7.34 - pistons; 8 — piston valve; 9, 14, 35 — cuffs; 10.32, 37 — springs; 11 - coupling; 12 - nut; 13 — thrust washer; 15 — clutch master cylinder; 16 — clutch master cylinder valve; 17 — thrust ring; 19 - pipeline; 20 - pedal; 21 - hose; 22 — clutch slave cylinder; 25 - cover; 26 — fork ring; 27 — fork support axis; 28, 30 — rollers; 29 - coupling pin; 31 — clutch bearing; 36 — spacer sleeve

The working cylinder 22, mounted on the upper part of the clutch housing, is connected to the main cylinder by a pipeline 19 and a hose 21, and is equipped with a valve to remove air from the hydraulic system. When the pedal is not pressed, the cavity under piston 7 of the main cylinder is connected to the reservoir through compensation hole B, which eliminates an increase in pressure in the hydraulic system and clutch slipping.

The bearing 31 of the GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 clutch release clutch is pressed against the pressure spring with a force of 70-100 N (7-10 kgf) using spring 32 through piston 34, pusher 24, fork 3 (see. Fig. 1) and clutch 8. When the clutch linings wear out under the action of the pressure spring, the system takes a new position, compressing spring 32 (Fig. 2).

Excess fluid from the clutch slave cylinder GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko enters the reservoir through a pipeline into the compensation hole in the master cylinder.

The existing bend in the length of the working cylinder for the movement of the piston provides (without adjustment) the calculated wear of the clutch linings. The position (travel) of the clutch pedal relative to the floor is regulated by changing the length of pusher 5. Repair work on the clutch can be carried out without removing the engine from the car.

Removing the clutch of a GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko car

To remove the clutch, you must remove the gearbox and clutch housing.

To remove the clutch housing GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko, you must do the following:

— disconnect the exhaust system pipe from the clutch housing; — Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the cover of the clutch slave cylinder; — unscrew the nuts of the studs securing the clutch working cylinder, lift up the working cylinder assembled with the pusher, without disconnecting the hose;

Design features

Clutch basket is the popular name for the pressure plate, which is an integral part of the car transmission. It is a structure with a convex round base, into which pressure springs are built-in.

These elements are connected to a special round platform called a clamping platform. It has a smooth, sanded surface on one side to ensure a tight surface fit. From the center of the basket there are special pressure springs attached to the flywheel.

The purpose of a car's clutch assembly is to smoothly connect the flywheel of the car's power unit and the gearbox shaft. This is done by connecting a disk (in other words, a basket) to the driven element.

There are single-disk mechanisms with one driven disk and multi-disk ones. Most cars have a single-disc design. There are also dry and wet mechanisms. Wet works in an oil environment. Most of the components installed in the machines are dry.

According to the method of actuation, clutch mechanisms are divided into mechanical, electrical, hydraulic and combined. Nowadays, most cars are equipped with manual varieties.

Replacement and repair of clutch basket

Replacing the clutch basket is an operation that skilled drivers carry out in the garage, using a jack and support blocks. If it is possible to use a lift, then you should use it.

The work of replacing the basket and repairing the clutch is not an easy task for the uninitiated person. The technological features of removing the gearbox and disconnecting the clutch are different for different models, so we describe the principle and sequence of the operation for replacing the basket.

First, you need a manual, namely, a repair manual for your car. Necessarily

Namely, the method of repair and maintenance. The second thing you need is to get a catalog of parts (something may be superfluous, something may be missing). It is important that when disconnecting the gearbox, before removing the clutch, you need to mark the position of all rotating parts so that during reassembly (if installed incorrectly), vibrations do not occur. Disconnect the gear shift lever in the cabin. We get to the gearbox and disconnect it. Unscrew the bolts securing the basket to the flywheel. If the flywheel turns, then hold it with a mounting tool. Remove the clutch basket and driven disc. The clutch release clutch is dismantled along with the bearing

As the repair progresses, evaluate the condition of the clutch fork, and other parts, the bushing, and so on. The release bearing will need to be pressed out of the clutch. This is a labor-intensive operation. After pressing out, the clutch bearing is changed. For lubrication, use only those lubricants recommended by the manufacturer.

Before assembling the clutch, thoroughly wash all parts in kerosene and at the same time troubleshoot them. Never reinstall damaged clutch parts.

We assemble the clutch after cleaning the parts from old lubricant and applying new one. Naturally, we install the clutch and gearbox strictly in the reverse order.

Important! Pay attention to the tightening of the bolts. It is necessary to clarify the tightening torque parameters of the basket bolts to the flywheel, etc.

Communities › VAZ: Repair and Modification › Blog › INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPLACING THE CLUTCH (VAZ 2114)

SOME RULES: those who don’t like anything, are dissatisfied and want to take a shit, then GO THROUGH THE WOODS)))) posted for those who want, are going to change the clutch themselves. I hope the information is useful

I haven’t written for a long time, but it’s big right away!)

in general, what can I say... I bought a clutch. I decided to change it. In the book everything is written that everything is simple... well, I went for a drive, and everywhere everyone had notes like “I went to a hundred to change the clutch.” But because the clutch died, and the pre-session budget does not allow give 2.5 k to the service to change the clutch, and in general I want to change it myself! I went at 5 am to change the SoKoL2013 with a friend... well, we thought we’d get it done by 12 noon, so that we could then drive to the track in Glinkovo ​​near Sergiev Posad to break in the new one clutch)) but that was not the case. I encountered many difficulties due to the fact that among us there were no car mechanics or specialists in this matter, but only a book... SO THE DETAILS. INSTRUCTIONS

what you will definitely need:1.

guide for clutch VAZ 2114 (photo 1) (required! without it, the box will never fall back into place)
2.
a powerful 30 socket (to unscrew the hub) or a hub puller
3.
a stronger wrench (to rip off the hub nut)
4.
set heads with all sorts of extensions and cardan shafts (it was much simpler and more convenient)
5.
a jack and two wheels (or bricks)
6.
a powerful 8-point head to unscrew the basket (it was firmly seated on mine)
7.
a 17-point wrench for adjusting the clutch (yes and in general, keys can come in handy)
n
a garage with a bunch of nuts, screws, washers (you never know;) ), straight arms, a friend with straight arms (better than two), a pit, and so on little things...)

don’t be lazy and take a lot of jars or a suitcase with compartments and put all the nuts, bolts, washers from each part in different cells

stage 1.

we tear off two hub nuts on both sides of the front with a 30mm socket and a powerful wrench (under the plastic cap on the brake disc) (if you first jacked up the car, then have a friend get in the car and press the brakes or set it to speed 1), loosen the wheel. Jack up the car , we throw two wheels and a board under it (this height was enough for us, and the jack was all screwed out), take out the jack, it will come in handy, and it’s dangerous to do it on a jack, remove the wheel.

stage 2.

remove the battery and air filter (required) and immediately below it there will be a clutch cable and disconnect it from the release rod, fall into the hole and unscrew the protection (crankcase and engine, which is on the side of the box) and two engine supports: rear and left. Next, unscrew the bolts and the nuts that connect the box and the engine together. They are all big there (I won’t say how many of them there are, because I don’t remember... I visually found and unscrewed 5-7 pieces: from below, from above 2 or 3, the ignition module mounting bolt (this is also will hold), then from the hole we find a rod that holds the box to the internal combustion engine (such a tube), we dodge, install an extension cord and remove it too (ONLY where it is attached to the box) in general, we unscrew all the bolts, nuts, studs that we like and come across eyes)))) just look there and you can see everything that holds it. Now the box is held only by the drive rods that go to the wheels.

stage 3.

we unscrew the stabilizer, which is on the side of the box and everything that holds it, and the molt holds it (two rubber cushions like that, connected and the holes point in different directions) and something else... you will see what and how. Our task is to take it out the rod and grenade from the hub (in short, remove the rod from the wheel) it can be easily removed. Put it down, unscrew it and take out the rocker switch (it’s next to the rear support there), check if anything is holding our box by placing 1-2 boards under the box in the hole to put it down.

Cost of replacing clutch disc friction linings

The cost of restoring a clutch disc depends on the size and type of clutch disc; we have a special article about types of discs. The prices in the table are based on statistics and are approximate. The exact cost after a free inspection of the disk by a specialist.