Lowered SS20 Racing struts and shocks

How to lower a VAZ 2114 correctly

Message by tazmen72 » 07 Jul 2012, 14:33
I’ve been reading the forum for a long time, but I decided to register and ask for advice on undervaluation.

what we have: 2114 with standard suspension, r13 wheels, 175/75 tires

in the future I plan to change the wheels to white forged r15 with tires something like 195/50

you need to lower it without sawing the arches or shuffling your wheels against them.

Which struts with springs are best to buy? Or maybe it’s better to cut the drain, because I don’t need rigidity, but I need a beautiful fit? And is it really possible to do it yourself, is there a lot of hassle in replacing the struts, or should I go to a hundred?

Now I’ll try to find pictures of chepyreks on the Internet with a lowering that I like

Lowering a car (for example, lowering a VAZ ) is one of the most common areas of tuning a VAZ.

The most common solution for novice tuners is to take and cut off several coils of suspension springs. Some manage to do this without even removing the shock absorbers from the car. This approach to undervaluing a car is fundamentally wrong.

By cutting the spring, the support coil, which is made to contact the support cup, is lost. Due to its absence, the spring warps, it flies off the support cup, and the load is distributed unevenly. %product1_l% All this leads to incorrect operation of the spring and its further breakage. By reducing the height of a standard spring, you also increase its stiffness, while the stress in the metal increases and its service life decreases.

A suspension spring is only one element of a car's suspension. When lowering the vases, it is also necessary to select the necessary shock absorbers. There are many types of shock absorbers that are designed to lower a vehicle to suit specific suspension springs. This means that if you want to lower your VAZ by 50 mm, then you will need springs lowered by 50 mm and a set of shock absorbers with modified characteristics designed to lower them by 50 mm. These components cannot be used separately for the reason that the spring must be clamped between the upper and lower cups. If, for example, you decide to install springs with a 50 mm lowering on standard shock absorbers, then the length of the shock absorber rod will be too long, because it is designed for the height of the standard rod. %product2_r% For shock absorbers designed for lowering springs, the length of the rod has been changed to properly fix the spring. In addition, when using springs for large lowering, to reduce the load on the steering, the mounting points for the steering tips have been moved to the racks.

For proper operation of suspension tuning, it is necessary to use a complete suspension kit, which necessarily includes springs and shock absorbers made for them. Our online store offers several options for lowering a VAZ car. %product3_l% Lowering is possible from 20 to 90 mm. When lowered by more than 90 mm, normal suspension operation is almost impossible to achieve.

To ensure the longevity of your suspension, we recommend always using new rebound buffers and all shock rod boots. The support bearings of the front struts also play an important role. Good quality journal bearings can reduce steering force by up to 10%.

In our store you can buy ready-made suspension kits for lowering your car, or assemble them yourself.

alexx600oo › Blog › My hobby. Budget landing 2114 “super car”.

Hi all.
Today after work a client arrived to plant another Vase. I have no desire to discuss the very necessity and meaning of planting, because... this will be a shit topic. But personally, I am FOR adequate planting of the VAZ! For me there are only advantages from it.

I decided to try to capture the whole action and reflect the process in detail. Maybe it would be better to create an entry in the b/w of my ex 08, but still this entry does not quite apply to her.

So, what we have: a VAZ 2114 with an engine and suspension from Priora. I’m not a fan of experiments, so I told the person in advance about the need to purchase lowering front springs. For the life of me, I don’t understand the heated or sawn front Prior springs. Let's start to sort it out.

We remove the wheel. Remove the tip pin. I use a puller, but many people make do with a crowbar and a hammer.

Next, we take out the brake hose from the clamp on the rack and unscrew and remove the bolts responsible for adjusting the camber.

Then unscrew the three nuts under the hood that secure the support to the body.

That's it, the rack has been removed and is ready for further disassembly. It is advisable to compress the spring with special ties, but I have already gotten used to doing this without them.

We install “low springs” instead of the drain and assemble everything in the reverse order, without using zip ties.

Next, fix the strut to the body using the support nuts. We insert the camber adjustment bolts, insert the brake hose into the groove and also tighten and cotter the tip pin.

The second side runs in the same direction.

Now I want to talk separately about camber and toe-in. I often come across posts, especially on VK, that people park their cars without doing a wheel alignment. I completely disagree with this, because... the position of the body relative to the ground changes, the length of the lever remains unchanged, therefore the camber goes away. And if the camber goes away, then the toe-in is correspondingly lost, and it is precisely because of it that it begins to “eat” rubber. In general, this is a matter for everyone - I expressed my position.

I always make the camber a little negative on the PP, because... this has a positive effect on handling and does not harm the tires.

With the rear axle, everything is simpler: unscrew the top nut in the cup under the shelf, then hang the car and unscrew the bottom bolt securing the strut in the beam. I don’t see any reason to set the rear springs to lower ones, because... 99% of cars are used for civilian purposes and there is no smell of real sport. Yes, and underestimation of the global is not usually planned. Therefore, we simply saw off the required number of turns with a grinder. If you don’t agree, for God’s sake, buy ready-made products, I don’t mind at all.

Assembly should be carried out slowly, because... It’s important not to forget any rubber bands. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything all over again. The rubber on the body must be removed and installed on the spring, because This will make it easier to put it in place.

That's basically it. The whole process takes me from 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on the age of the car.

Important details: — do not forget to insert the brake hose into the groove; - use an angle grinder with glasses; - lubricate the bolts that adjust the camber, this will greatly simplify their removal in the future and insert these bolts with the head forward, and not vice versa, because this simplifies camber adjustment.

I really hope that this post will encourage someone to do their own repairs, because... it really brings you closer to the car. ))) I was glad to help, if I helped of course.

Answers (2)

It's quite simple. Topics such as how to lower or tune a VAZ 2113, 2114 or any other Russian car have long been known and a lot has been done and written. But nevertheless, you can give some recommendations and give ways on how to do this.

1) Wheels and tires. Choose those wheels that you like and that visually match the color and design of the car. But the most important thing is to comply with the standard parameters, in particular the bolt pattern, which in the VAZ 2113, like other Ladas, is 4X98, the approximate width is up to 6.0 J - otherwise the wheels will stick out, the offset is ET30-40 - if less, then the wheels can also stick out a lot or touch the arches or calipers. The centering hole - TsO 58.5 - if it doesn’t fit, it can be easily solved with spacer rings.

In general, there are a lot of rims for the R15 for the VAZ, and inexpensive ones, on average 2500 rubles per rim costs. Rubber is more expensive. For 15-inch wheels, you need to look for tires with parameters - 195/50 R15 - such summer tires - cost an average of 3,000 rubles. So calculate how much it will turn out: 10,000 rubles wheels + 12,0000 tires + 22,000 rubles. But you can, of course, find used options that will cost much less.

2) Let's move on to the second point, which is important - this is an underestimation. There are many ways to lower it, even to the point of carrying bags of cement in the trunk and in the back row of seats. But let's list the simplest ways:

1) Cut off a couple of turns from the spring. You can easily do such tuning yourself, or in any normal service - they will do such a service for you for 500-1000 rubles. The disadvantages of this method are that you will feel all the bumps very strongly, and stability will not improve

2) Replace the standard springs with sports, shortened ones, which themselves are stiffer, and at the same time, the car will be more stable when cornering and on a straight line. The cost of this approach will be on average 5000-6000 rubles + labor.

3) The most interesting way to lower vases or cans is to install air suspension. It’s expensive, around 20,000 rubles including work, but in your area, and just in the city, you will become the coolest guy thanks to the Vase with air suspension. You can adjust the ground clearance, etc.

As for tinting, everything is simple. You stop by any tinting shop and for 2000-2500 rubles they will tint your windows. I do not recommend tinting the windshield and front side windows, as this may result in a fine and removal of license plates. Oh, and by the way, recently it has become fashionable among fans of the Russian automobile industry not to tint the windows at all - to drive like in an aquarium.

How to lower a VAZ 2114 with your own hands

Recently, there has been a tendency among young people to undervalue their cars. As they say: “A low pelvis is pleasing to the eye!” I’ll say right away that if you decide to lower your VAZ, you can do this in several ways, but the easiest and cheapest is to cut the springs. But, I want to warn you that on bumps it will not be very pleasant, due to the fact that all the impacts will go to the bump stops, the spring will not smooth them out much. If this doesn’t stop you, as in principle it doesn’t stop me, then this article is for you  And this article is also for those who don’t like the fact that the back of the VAZ 2110 is much higher than the front. To level them, you can cut off just a couple of turns - this will not affect the behavior of the car.

Lowering options

1. Buy a ready-made suspension kit. It includes: springs, struts, etc. This is the simplest, most convenient and expensive option, replacing almost the entire suspension at once. It will cost from 12,000+ rubles. This is the safest option, especially if you get quality parts and install everything correctly. If you choose this option, then do not forget about the wheel alignment.

2. The best option is to replace only springs with a smaller turn stroke. This will lower your car and add rigidity, without any harmful consequences for the car. You can also just buy a regular spring, but stiffer and lower. The range of prices is huge, but from about 3k rubles.

3. There is an option to move the spring cup down. But here you are playing the lottery, since it is very dangerous to do it yourself. - You may weld poorly - The stand is not guaranteed to be able to withstand high temperatures during welding. But don’t be discouraged, such racks are sold ready-made.

4. Cutting springs. Most people simply cut the coils off the spring. And this should not be done under any circumstances! In this case, the stroke of the rod decreases and when it gets into a hole, the strut does not have enough free play and it hits the body. Also, a sawn spring can become warped and it will also hit the body and spoil the suspension. Has proven itself to be excellent.

conclusions

Of course, the best option for installation on a VAZ-2114 are sports racks, since they are durable and have many advantages over the original ones. It is worth noting that several analogues have also earned their name because they have a price-quality ratio. So, if you know your driving style, the characteristics of the region and some characteristics of the struts, you can choose the best option for your car.

Good evening. The question is this. Will the front struts from the Priora fit on the VAZ 2113? The struts from the Priora on the VAZ 2109.

Similar articles

How to lower a VAZ 2114 correctly

Post by tazmen72 » 07 Jul 2012, 14:33

I've been reading the forum for a long time, but I decided to register and ask for advice on undervaluation.

what we have: 2114 with standard suspension, r13 wheels, 175/75 tires

in the future I plan to change the wheels to white forged r15 with tires something like 195/50

you need to lower it without sawing the arches or shuffling your wheels against them.

Which struts with springs are best to buy? Or maybe it’s better to cut the drain, because I don’t need rigidity, but I need a beautiful fit? And is it really possible to do it yourself, is there a lot of hassle in replacing the struts, or should I go to a hundred?

Now I’ll try to find pictures of chepyreks on the Internet with a lowering that I like

Lowering a car (for example, lowering a VAZ ) is one of the most common areas of tuning a VAZ.

The most common solution for novice tuners is to take and cut off several coils of suspension springs. Some manage to do this without even removing the shock absorbers from the car. This approach to undervaluing a car is fundamentally wrong.

By cutting the spring, the support coil, which is made to contact the support cup, is lost. Due to its absence, the spring warps, it flies off the support cup, and the load is distributed unevenly. %product1_l% All this leads to incorrect operation of the spring and its further breakage. By reducing the height of a standard spring, you also increase its stiffness, while the stress in the metal increases and its service life decreases.

A suspension spring is only one element of a car's suspension. When lowering the vases, it is also necessary to select the necessary shock absorbers. There are many types of shock absorbers that are designed to lower a vehicle to suit specific suspension springs. This means that if you want to lower your VAZ by 50 mm, then you will need springs lowered by 50 mm and a set of shock absorbers with modified characteristics designed to lower them by 50 mm. These components cannot be used separately for the reason that the spring must be clamped between the upper and lower cups. If, for example, you decide to install springs with a 50 mm lowering on standard shock absorbers, then the length of the shock absorber rod will be too long, because it is designed for the height of the standard rod. %product2_r% For shock absorbers designed for lowering springs, the length of the rod has been changed to properly fix the spring. In addition, when using springs for large lowering, to reduce the load on the steering, the mounting points for the steering tips have been moved to the racks.

For proper operation of suspension tuning, it is necessary to use a complete suspension kit, which necessarily includes springs and shock absorbers made for them. Our online store offers several options for lowering a VAZ car. %product3_l% Lowering is possible from 20 to 90 mm. When lowered by more than 90 mm, normal suspension operation is almost impossible to achieve.

To ensure the longevity of your suspension, we recommend always using new rebound buffers and all shock rod boots. The support bearings of the front struts also play an important role. Good quality journal bearings can reduce steering force by up to 10%.

In our store you can buy ready-made suspension kits for lowering your car, or assemble them yourself.

Rear suspension

The diagram of this node includes a total of 16 elements:

• Rubber-metal hinge (it serves as the main fastener for the body);
• Bracket. It secures the rear suspension arm to the body;
• Shock absorber housing;
• Compression load buffer;
• Housing cover;
• Washing machine support;
• Amortpodushka;
• Spacer sleeve;
• Solid spring;
• Shock absorber;
• Beam lever;
• Insulation gasket;
• Lever connection element;
• Flange;
• Rack bracket;
• Lever handle.

Answers (2)

It's quite simple. Topics such as how to lower or tune a VAZ 2113, 2114 or any other Russian car have long been known and a lot has been done and written. But nevertheless, you can give some recommendations and give ways on how to do this.

1) Wheels and tires. Choose those wheels that you like and that visually match the color and design of the car. But the most important thing is to comply with the standard parameters, in particular the bolt pattern, which in the VAZ 2113, like other Ladas, is 4X98, the approximate width is up to 6.0 J - otherwise the wheels will stick out, the offset is ET30-40 - if less, then the wheels can also stick out a lot or touch the arches or calipers. The centering hole - TsO 58.5 - if it doesn’t fit, it can be easily solved with spacer rings.

In general, there are a lot of rims for the R15 for the VAZ, and inexpensive ones, on average 2500 rubles per rim costs. Rubber is more expensive. For 15-inch wheels, you need to look for tires with parameters - 195/50 R15 - such summer tires - cost an average of 3,000 rubles. So calculate how much it will turn out: 10,000 rubles wheels + 12,0000 tires + 22,000 rubles. But you can, of course, find used options that will cost much less.

2) Let's move on to the second point, which is important - this is an underestimation. There are many ways to lower it, even to the point of carrying bags of cement in the trunk and in the back row of seats. But let's list the simplest ways:

1) Cut off a couple of turns from the spring. You can easily do such tuning yourself, or in any normal service - they will do such a service for you for 500-1000 rubles. The disadvantages of this method are that you will feel all the bumps very strongly, and stability will not improve

2) Replace the standard springs with sports, shortened ones, which themselves are stiffer, and at the same time, the car will be more stable when cornering and on a straight line. The cost of this approach will be on average 5000-6000 rubles + labor.

3) The most interesting way to lower vases or cans is to install air suspension. It’s expensive, around 20,000 rubles including work, but in your area, and just in the city, you will become the coolest guy thanks to the Vase with air suspension. You can adjust the ground clearance, etc.