Replacing the backstage of Lada Kalina sedan (VAZ Kalina)

Malfunction of the yoke cardan

This is one of the most common problems. At the same time, eliminating it is quite tricky. Backlash occurs as a result of wear of the cardan parts. This happens regularly. Therefore, in order to save time, it is better to buy and install a sports version or from Kalina. Such cardans last much longer. When installing a “original” part, be prepared that you will soon have to change it again.

The part should be changed in an inspection pit or overpass. First you need to loosen the clamp on the drive rod. You will have to use an open-end wrench size 13. Next, the hinge is removed from the rod. The boot is turned away and we get access to the cardan.

It is secured with a locking bolt. To remove it you will need a 10 mm wrench. It is advisable to use a clamp used for brake pipes. Otherwise, there is a risk of crushing the edges. The fact is that domestic engineers came up with an ingenious way to avoid unscrewing the bolt during vibration; they put it on glue. After struggling with the bolt and unscrewing it, remove the cardan. After which a new part is installed and reassembled. The correct assembly is indicated by the position of the latch; its head should be completely in a special recess.

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To replace the “ten” cardan you will need a pit, keys for 10 and 13:

1. The gearbox control rod joint is hidden under the boot.
2. We remove the boot and move it to the gearbox.
3. Loosen the clamp bolt to 13, loosen it a little and pull the link off the hinge. Then unscrew the 10mm bolt that secures the hinge on the gear selector rod and remove the hinge.
4. We install a new hinge without play on the gear selector rod and secure it with a 10-point bolt. To prevent it from turning away from vibrations, we lubricate it with a thread locker.

Causes of rattling of the Kalina gearbox handle

The Kalina gearshift lever is a component of the transmission. The handle is functional and fits comfortably in the hand. Thanks to the lever, speed modes can be quickly changed. It should be noted that the lever is securely locked, which increases the clarity of gear shifting.

Why does the gearshift lever rattle on Kalina? Both the car owner of a car with high mileage and the owner of a newly purchased Lada may encounter this problem. First of all, the rattling of the gearbox lever is due to the fact that the fastenings have become loose. In some cases, the problem may lie in the bushing, lever bolt, or gearbox cover. The specialists of a specialized center can accurately determine the reason for the play of the handle, why the lever began to dangle on the box. They will take appropriate measures to correct the problem (replacement of components may be necessary). You should purchase original spare parts for Kalina.

How to remove the old one and install a new gearshift pad with your own hands

After driving a VAZ-1118 for some time, many owners of this car noticed that the Kalina gearbox lever was rattling. Moreover, this rattling sound resembles the sound that was present in earlier cars of this plant (from VAZ-2108 to VAZ-2110). The fact is that the mechanical transmission is structurally controlled according to one type.

Driving a car when the interior is noisy is not very pleasant. Therefore, it is better to get rid of this problem, since the experience of many drivers shows that rattling does not go away on its own. On the contrary, as the mileage increases, it becomes increasingly louder. Ordinary driving turns into real torture for people sitting in Kalina, causing particular discomfort.

The main cause of this problem is an imperfectly executed system for attaching the gearbox lever to the linkage. The car owner can take two ways to correct the situation: fix the problem yourself or have the car repaired at a service station.

SYNCHRONIZER

The first samples were equipped with a three-cone synchronizer. But calculations have shown that double-cone, cheaper ones, can withstand the required torque with a margin (see pictures). Among other advantages, they made it possible to get rid of the problematic cone on the gears of the first and second gears, which is in contact with the synchronizer ring and requires high precision in manufacturing. The ring set now creates two friction surfaces for smooth and efficient synchronization. In addition, the German manufacturer (Ho¨rbiger) applies an additional coating to the intermediate ring, which reduces wear and ensures stable operating parameters, including the required coefficient of friction.

Technical features of the gearbox

The drive gear block is engaged by the input shaft

This is important to consider when repairing a gearbox. As for the input shaft itself, a constant clutch is created for it with the front gear elements that perform similar functions

When repairing the secondary shaft, we must remember that it has a hollow structure. It is thanks to this that the oil reaches the driven gears without any problems.

The design of the gearbox is such that repairs cannot be done without the use of special circuits. In this case, the radial clearance on the roller bearings is no more than 0.07 millimeters.

Repairing the gearbox is also a rather complicated process. Especially considering that 0.04 millimeters should not exceed the same figure, but for ball analogues.

Location of the checkpoint backstage on the Lada Kalina.

The oil sump is responsible for supplying oil. It is located in the area of ​​the front bearing, fixed behind the output shaft. Major repairs often affect such details. If you select the desired thickness of the rings, it will be possible to adjust the tension indicator. The dimensions of the seals are easy to find in the instructions; these parts can be replaced without problems, even at home.

When repairing the gearshift knob, you must remember that the driven gear of the gearbox on this machine is attached to the differential flange. Through the saloon, the atmosphere is combined with the box itself, located at the top of the structure we are considering.

Lever repair is not the only operation that needs to be carried out from time to time. Sometimes it is necessary to replace bearings; this is done when extraneous noise appears. A gearbox repair kit must be purchased if excess noise becomes noticeable when pressing or releasing the clutch pedal.

All control drive elements of the Lada Kalina gearbox.

The repair manual says that the box is controlled using a drive, which consists of several elements:

• Switch rod.
• Spherical bearing.
• Lever arm.

According to the manual, cable structures are always equipped with jet traction, then the gears do not turn off on their own. One of the ends of the rod is connected to the lever, and the other to the motor. If the seals of the internal joints are faulty, it is necessary to carry out independent repair of the gearbox. But before replacing them, you need to completely change the oil. The front wheel drive is completely disconnected.

Three axes are present on the shift system. One axis is equipped with a three-arm lever for selecting and disengaging gears. There is no gearbox on the second axle, but there are brackets that block rotation. After every 75 thousand kilometers, this design is completely changed. Gearbox lever play should also alert you, as should failure of other parts.

ROPE DRIVE

The single-rod gear shift drive was replaced by a cable. The unpleasant vibrations on the lever are gone, there is less play, and shifting is clearer.

Lightweight aluminum German gear forks are equipped with anti-wear shoes made of plastic. Previous parts were cast from steel, and to reduce wear, a bronze layer was applied to individual parts, which wore off over time and tinted the oil with golden powder.

VAZ-2181 is the first AVTOVAZ gearbox for which a computer calculation of all parts subject to loads was performed: crankcases, forks, levers, etc. Thus, the design was not only optimized, but also made more reliable.

1 — gear selector levers;

3 — selector grid;

5 - central three-dimensional plate.

Thank you for your help in preparing the material.

Mikhail Votinov, Vladimir Petunin,

Other reasons for the lack of reverse gear on the VAZ-1118

The gearbox may not yet turn on if the link (thrust) is not adjusted, but in this case problems will also arise when trying to turn on some other speed (for example, first or fifth). That is why, whenever removing a manual transmission, it is recommended to put marks on the slide so that during reassembly it can be installed in exactly the same position.

Another reason for the malfunction of the gearbox is an unadjusted or poor clutch, but here, too, other gears either do not engage or shift with a crunch. The travel of the clutch pedal on Kalina is adjusted by decreasing or increasing the length of the cable; when the disc is worn out, the car begins to drive with slipping and does not pick up speed well. One of the main signs of bad ferrodo is the smell of burnt linings, which is especially noticeable when the car picks up speed and operates under increased load. At the same time, the free play of the clutch pedal increases, and it is not always possible to adjust it.

The Kalina gearbox has its own characteristics that every car owner should know. The manufacturer installs 5-speed gearboxes on the cars, which have 1 rear gear and 5 forward gears. Some car owners complain that the gearbox makes a squeaking noise when the lever is shifted. The thing is that the manufacturer installed special synchronizers on all forward gears. They are the ones who create the creak. When adjusting or replacing synchronizers, the squeak disappears. To carry out repairs, you will need a diagram of the device.

Most often, buyers choose cars with manual transmissions at car dealerships. It must be said that their power directly depends on how many valves there are in the car’s engine. More recently, the car plant has carried out work to improve them; changes affected engines with 8 and 16 valves. The installation of reinforced parts made the engines more powerful and reliable.

REQUIREMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS

Figuring out what and how we could improve, we agreed on one thing: not to touch the gear part, namely the shafts, gears, and synchronizers. Otherwise, huge financial costs will be required to launch a new gearbox into production - without high-precision equipment, it will not be possible to ensure the proper quality of engagement, operation and synchronization.

Main elements of the VAZ-2181 gearbox:

2 - secondary shaft;

4 — fifth gear fork;

6 — reversing light switch;

8 — gear shift mechanism;

Gear selection rod viburnum

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We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

We move the joint assembly with the control rod from the gear selector rod.

Using a 10mm spanner, unscrew the hinge locking screw.

. and remove the screw.

We move the joint assembly with the control rod from the gear selector rod.

Remove the protective cover of the hinge from the switch rod

Using a powerful slotted screwdriver, evenly (from different sides) pry the seal ring by the collar.

. and press the race with the oil seal out of the clutch housing socket.

A mandrel of the appropriate size.

. press the oil seal out of the cage. We clean the race and the seat under it in the clutch housing from the old sealant. Select a mandrel (for example, a tool head) with a diameter close to the outer diameter of the oil seal.

. press the oil seal into the cage until it stops (the working edge of the oil seal should face the clutch housing). We apply transmission oil to the working edge of the oil seal, and sealant to the outer surface of the race.

We put the cage on the switch rod and press it into the clutch housing socket, resting it with a mandrel of a suitable size on the collar of the oil seal cage. We carry out further assembly in reverse order. We replace the damaged hinge cover.

Before assembly, clean and degrease the threads of the hinge locking screw and apply locking (thread) sealant to the threads. Before tightening the screw, we ensure that the holes in the hinge and the gear selector rod match

Hello). Another small repair. Loss of fuel and lubricants in the engine compartment area is a bad thing.

Through long and complex research in a top-secret laboratory, it turned out that the gear selection oil seal (the “rocker” oil seal) had given up... and the transmission quietly, little by little, but constantly, went into protection and then into the ground. “Looking into tomorrow” it became clear that this cannot continue for long, it is necessary to change:

Unscrew the rod and the rocker...:

...and the first surprise - having pulled the boot a little away from the gearbox housing, oil rushed out of it, probably 200-300 grams just leaked out:

It’s good that the substrate was laid in advance, otherwise they would have added a link and a cardan for 3.14):

Because The oil was almost all gone, and the boot was getting in the way a lot, so I threw it away:

Next it was necessary to unscrew and remove the cardan:

...and here is the second surprise - I can’t unscrew it...pzdts)). Firstly, it’s not convenient to climb, hands and keys in the oil-liquid are slippery, and secondly, the bolt has already begun to “lick”, and it’s not simple, but specific - The prospect of following him to the store did not make me happy, and what’s the point if I didn’t unscrew this cardan... The disassembly of the gearbox from below has already begun) ... well, what if I could throw my head on the “8”:

And the **** there)), still can’t get to it. In the end, somehow (I didn’t understand how) I turned it a little with the cap, then completely unscrewed it and removed the cardan:

Then the only thing left to do is to knock out (carefully) the “bucket” from the gearbox, in which this unfortunate oil seal is located. As it turned out, there was no oil seal in it... it was on the gearbox rod, that is, it was stupidly knocked out of its seat... so and such rivers of oil flowed.

Before all this crap, on the advice of KalinAklubnikov, I bought not one oil seal, but two: Kalinovsky and eight-wheel:

And the duster is also unforgotten:

I did not shorten the springs on the seals, because... if I had gone to remove them, I would definitely have messed up and torn them, from experience, it was...nah, I don’t want to)). I just carefully pressed the Kalinovsky one in first, and then pressed it down with an eight-piece... in size they are just like:

Sealant on the “buckle” from the outside and put everything in the reverse order, replenishing the loss of oil from the gearbox. Nothing complicated, though there is one point: adjusting the rocker so that the speeds turn on normally. Before removing it, someone puts a mark on the driveshaft, and then follows it puts on the drawstring, I completely missed this point, I didn’t put marks, I did it according to the ABC book: when putting the drawstring on the cardan, you need to leave a 13-15 mm gap between them. I didn’t climb there with a ruler, I just measured 1.5 cm using a match and set it up like this...well, you understand, in general, who regulated it)):

But no, not everything, I don’t remember, someone was wondering why the block below was covered in oil. Answer: dry crankcase gas hoses and a rubber seal on the dipstick. 1.5 or 2 years ago I changed everything, this is how it is at the moment, relatively clean:

Issue price: 180 ₽

Replacing the clip

The rubberized metal socket is attached to the frame by means of two jumpers, which are prone to destruction as a result of intensive use and temperature changes.

Replacing the gearshift lever cage on a Kalina will require work inside the car and under its bottom, so to carry out the work you will need:

• keys, heads for “10” and “13”;
• slotted screwdriver;
• a shaped screwdriver for unscrewing screws;
• a device for removing a lock ring or pliers;
• jack, wheel chocks and safety stands.

An inspection hole, overpass or lift is also required.

Activities in the salon

To replace the gear selector cage, it is necessary to completely dismantle the Kalina gearbox rod drive mechanism by performing the following steps:

1. Pry off and remove the cover with the gear shift pinout from the knob.
2. Unscrew the nut with a “13” head and then unscrew the knob by hand.
3. Pull the casing out of the socket and remove it from the lever, disconnecting the reverse gear connector.

Clip rupture

Further actions will require removing the console, which is prevented by the parking brake button bracket, which blocks access to the end screw. After removing the casing, two “10” bolts securing the handbrake handle to the bottom and releasing the bracket, you can begin dismantling the console, for which:

1. The end screw is unscrewed.
2. Unscrew two screws securing the side panels with ventilation holes on the driver and passenger sides.
3. The console body is removed and moved to the side.

The overhead metal plate for fastening the holder is held in place by four bolts in the corners, which must be unscrewed. Access to the left front bolt is blocked by an air duct tunnel, which will have to be removed or moved with a spatula or screwdriver slightly to the left to be able to work with an open-end wrench. Next, remove the bolt that secures the gear selector lever to the eyelets of the rocker. After this, you need to continue working under the bottom of the car (see the corresponding section).

Dismantled holder or support for the Kalina gearbox

The dismantled mechanism consisting of the rocker, lever and its holder is placed in a convenient place for further work:

1. The metal mounting platform is separated from the holder.
2. The retaining ring is removed from the metal mounting socket, then the lever with the bearing.
3. After removing the old bearing, a new one is put in its place through a bushing on the end of the lever and the entire assembly is placed in the socket, where it is fixed with a clamping ring.
4. The faulty support is removed from the slide and a new one is installed.

Replacing the Kalina gearbox cage is completed by assembling the restored gear selection device in the reverse order with mandatory adjustment of the rocker position (see the corresponding section).

To do this, secure the reaction rod with two previously removed bolts, and leave the clamp on the rocker untightened, allowing it to move relative to the gearbox rod.

Actions under the car

To dismantle the drive mechanism, you will need to disconnect the torque rod from the holder. The tools you will need are a 13" socket and a slotted screwdriver, with which you need to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the torque rod to the holder.

Backstage adjustment

After this, continue working in the interior, pulling out the clip mounting area along with the boot and the rocker inside.

Backstage adjustment

Replacing the gearshift lever cage on a Kalina will require re-adjusting the position of the rocker on the rod. For this:

1. The car is secured with wheel chocks.
2. Reverse gear is engaged.
3. The bolt of the clamp that fixes the position of the link on the rod is loosened.
4. Holding the gearbox fork rod, slightly move the gear shift lever to select its position when the reverse gear is engaged.
5. Tighten the clamp on the rocker, fixing its position relative to the rod.
6. Check the lever stroke in all positions and repeat the adjustment if necessary.

When tightening the clamp bolt, do not use excessive force, since the knurling on the rod ensures good engagement.

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Advantages of a short-stroke rocker

The advantages of a short-throw shifter are that, in addition to the clarity of gear engagement, less time is spent on this, and accordingly, acceleration becomes faster. Moreover, the price of the issue is not so high. The dynamics of the car improves.

And one more thing that should be noted is that the rattling and shifting of the lever disappears. Why? Their number is really reduced because a backlash-free Kalinovsky cardan is installed.

To summarize this article, we can say with confidence that a short-stroke rocker significantly improves comfort for the driver of the car. And many people note that after installation the cabin becomes much quieter. And if you take into account the number of advantages and the not at all high price, then we can confidently recommend this product to you.

Why does the gearshift lever rattle on Kalina?

The main reason for this problem lies in the very design of the attachment of the lever to the rod. To put it mildly, it is not perfect, but it can be corrected at minimal cost and in just a few minutes of time.

So, first you need to lift up the lever casing, and then unscrew the fastening nut, which is already shown in the photo below almost completed:

When the bolt is removed, we also remove all the washers and the metal sleeve. And this whole damn thing looks like this in parts:

So, the reason for the rattling is that when connecting this entire structure, a small gap appears between the parts, which is the source of strong vibration.

To achieve a smaller gap, it is necessary to slightly grind off the metal bushing, which prevents these washers from being compressed more tightly. I would like to warn you that you need to grind very carefully and very little, literally 1 mm. If you overdo it, then the lever will move with very great effort.

As a result, after connecting the bushing with washers into a single structure, as was shown first, we get a picture when this gap has decreased:

I messed up a little and sanded a little more than necessary (which I warned about above). As a result, when the fastening nut is tightly tightened, the lever moves tightly when switching. But I loosened this nut a little, literally half a turn - it shouldn’t come off!

When everything was done, I started the car and gave good speed, and there were no sounds from the lever. But to be sure, I decided to take a ride. I accelerated to about 70 km/h in third gear and left the gas pedal. Previously, in this situation, the rattling was simply terrible, and the only salvation from this was a hand on the lever! Now there is not a single hint of extraneous sounds or vibration.

Anyone who has not yet eliminated a similar defect on their Kalina can use this advice, just grind the bushing minimally. It’s better to improve it a second time than to screw it up the first time!

Below is material from an old article that talks about a similar problem, but it is easily solvable and is a thing of the past!

Many owners of the Lada Kalina very often have the following problem: when accelerating, as well as when braking the engine, the gear lever begins to rattle. A similar problem arose with my Kalina after about 15,000 km of operation.

At first, these extraneous sounds did not irritate me much, but every day the rattling of the gearbox lever became stronger, and to be honest, it’s not very pleasant to listen to it every day. I decided to tackle this issue. So, eliminating the cause can occur in different ways, depending on the complexity of the problem.

Fortunately, in my case it was enough to pry and remove the upper cover of the lever, on which the gearbox diagram is extruded. It is better to pry off this cover with a thin screwdriver so as not to damage the plastic parts. After we managed to remove it, we wrap its inner circle with a thin strip of electrical tape and insert it back. After this, this lid fits much tighter and does not rattle.

Of course, there are other sources of extraneous sounds, but for me everything worked out as simply and quickly as possible. The picture above shows exactly what needs to be wrapped with electrical tape.

In this article I will talk about possible causes and malfunctions due to which the reverse gear on the Lada Kalina does not engage. You will also learn how to find and fix a malfunction in the reverse gear locking mechanism with your own hands.

1. Before you start drastic actions and disassemble “anything and everything”, check the gear shift lever itself, this may be the reason. The linkage and cardan are quite often the cause of this breakdown. The splines could also be worn out or the clamp loosened. In this case, you will need an inspection hole.
2. A faulty release bearing is an option. Although it is unlikely, since in this case all gears without exception would be engaged with a characteristic crunch and with great effort.
3. Reverse gear may stop engaging due to problems in the reverse gear locking mechanism; in order to confirm or refute this, remove the gear shift knob along with the dashboard between the seats and perform a visual inspection.

SWITCH MECHANISM

The new mechanism is a separate module. It can be installed last and removed if necessary without disassembling the box. This is technologically advanced not only in production, but also in repair. Already at the concept stage developed by the VAZ team, a selector grill appeared in it, clearly repeating the gear shift pattern and setting the lever stroke when selecting gears. The mechanism includes a lock against accidental reverse gear, which is only accessible from neutral.

The characteristics of the mechanism were selected on the original simulation stand. The tester sits down on the seat and begins to go through the gears, while the automatic system imitates the shift pattern, forces and lever strokes implemented on a specific production car. You can also upload your own settings. Don't like an overly tight lever? A couple of taps on the keyboard and the effort is reduced. So, step by step, we selected the optimal settings for the “eighty-one”. The computer processed the data and produced parameters for constructing an accurate mathematical model, according to which those very tricky central plates were made.

Which box is suitable for Kalina?

Box from 2109 will fit Kalina. It is recommended to take it from Sputnik if the car is used in hard mode. It is much more reliable, although louder. The gearbox from 2110 will also fit the Kalina. Specifically, in terms of transmission, Kalina is closer to a “ten” than to a “nine”.

Hydraulic automatic "Zhatko"

The four-speed Japanese automatic transmission Jatco JF414E turned out to be quite successful and reliable. It was developed shortly before the release of Kalina and Grants and was made taking into account their design. Contrary to popular belief, this “automatic” is new, and not borrowed from the Toyota of the last century. Now it is found on many modern Nissans.

Hydraulic automatic "Zhatko"

A car with an automatic transmission costs a little more and is also more expensive to operate due to the maintenance of the gearbox. Oil and filters need to be changed more often, and at 200 thousand mileage a major overhaul will be required. The cost of operation is one of the key differences between the Kalina automatic transmission and the Kalina manual transmission.

The main thing in this “machine gun” is survivability. This box can be easily installed on Kalina.

AMT

AMT gearbox

During the design, some parts were borrowed from ZF, and the box was tested with Porsche engineers, just like on the G8 in the eighties. Owners of Kalin with a robotic gearbox speak warmly about it.

A few simple ways to temporarily fix the problem

The best solution is to eliminate the causes of the problem, rather than deal with temporary measures. The repair must be complete (for example, you can change the repair kit or the lever holder). But sometimes the situation forces motorists to take temporary measures.

Temporary measures include installing plastic washers on the gearshift lever axle. This is a fairly reliable method. To do this, you will need soft plastic (it can be successfully replaced by a jar lid) and tools: 10 and 13 mm wrenches, scissors, a screwdriver and a file.

The first step is to remove the gearshift knob cover. To do this, just lift it. The gearshift knob remains in place. After this, you need to unscrew the nut (its size is 13 mm). In this case, you should remember one rule: the tighter this nut is subsequently tightened, the harder it will be to shift the gear knob on Kalina.

After this step you will need a Phillips screwdriver. Use it to unscrew the screw. Then two 10 mm nuts are unscrewed. Release the bolt, bushings and nuts. Lubricate everything with a special lubricant, for example lithol.

A washer is cut out of plastic or a plastic cover, which must be installed on the gearbox lever axis. This is not an easy task, since the gap is small. Rubber rings are put on the axle on both sides of the bushing. To make the process easier, you can lubricate them a little. The clamped axle will stop rattling for a long time. This simple repair will even help smooth out gear shifting slightly.

Another way is to make a new gear knob pin. Any polyurethane turner can do this. Before installation, all rubbing parts are lubricated, which prevents extraneous sounds from appearing from the gearshift knob. This simple repair is a temporary measure. It’s better to fix everything for real and forget about extraneous noise while driving for a long time.