Replacing the clutch cylinder in a working VAZ 2105. The slave cylinder - when it’s time to replace it with a new one.

Dismantling the hydraulic drive

To perform the operation we will need:

1. container for operating fluid and a large-volume syringe.
2. set of wrenches and sockets;
3. screwdriver and pliers.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Brake fluid is pumped out from the expansion tank of the master cylinder of a VAZ 2107 car using a syringe. A rubber tube is disconnected from the drive, from which the remains are also poured into the prepared container. If liquid gets on paint surfaces, they must be wiped with a damp cloth.
2. Using an open-end wrench set to “10”, unscrew the fitting of the pipeline connecting the main and working hydraulic drives.
3. Using a “13” socket and an extension adapter, unscrew the nuts holding the assembly to the engine compartment panel.
4. To remove the master cylinder from the studs, simply press the clutch pedal, this will move it out of place, after which you can pull it out by hand.

The work on removing the unit is completed, and you can begin installing the spare part.

Removing the master cylinder

Before dismantling, you will need to drain the fluid from the expansion tank and remove the pipes. Then you will need to do the following:

1. Using a special “10” wrench, loosen all pipes.
2. Unscrew the tubes completely using a regular key to “10”. It is advisable to place a rag underneath so that the brake fluid does not get on the body parts.
3. After disconnecting the GTZ from the system, it is necessary to unscrew the nuts using a wrench set to “13” that fasten it to the vacuum booster housing.

This completes the dismantling. The brake cylinder must be replaced in exactly the reverse order. But if it is possible to make repairs, disassemble the cylinder.

Hydraulic drive installation

Replacing a mechanism involves purchasing it in a retail network or via the Internet. Installation work is performed in the following sequence:

1. The clutch master cylinder of the VAZ 2107 is put on the studs and pushed all the way to the base.
2. The nuts are screwed onto the fasteners and tightened with a wrench to “13”.
3. The union nut of the pipeline laid to the working hydraulic drive is screwed into the main cylinder.
4. The rubber tube is connected to a plastic connecting element and secured with a clamp.
5. The expansion tank is filled with brake fluid, which enters the main and slave cylinders of the clutch through tubes. Replacing the fluid in the system is mandatory due to wear products.

Upon completion of installation of parts, it is necessary to inspect and check the tightness of the nuts. Replacing the main or working clutch drive of a VAZ 2107 car ends with bleeding the system.

Nobody wants to experience discomfort while driving, especially if it is associated with problems in driving. Owners of domestic “classics” have to devote more time and effort to the condition of their car, because they are used to doing everything with their own hands. We can say with complete confidence that if the car owner has already mastered the process, then he can also repair the hydraulic drive of the transmission clutch, just study the technology.

In order for the replacement of the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder to be justified, it is good to know its purpose and the first signs of a malfunction. The torque transmission system on classic VAZ models is driven by a hydraulic drive, the main task of which is to transmit force when pressing the clutch control pedal.

In turn, the hydraulic drive consists of two cylinders: the main and the working. When the pedal is applied, pressure is created in the main center, as a result of which the brake fluid is pumped through the valve into the working cylinder (WC). The latter activates the rod, which squeezes the fork, thereby selecting gears.

Traditionally, the control center is located on the gearbox housing and secured with two bolts, so it can only be reached from under the bottom of the car. The operation of both cylinders depends on the presence of brake fluid, so you need to monitor its level, especially since this is not difficult to do - the container is located in the engine compartment.

Product location

The master cylinder on a VAZ 2107 is located under the hood, directly on the wall separating the interior from the hood, near the driver’s feet. Directly above it is the expansion tank, and next to it are the vacuum booster and the brake master cylinder. Usually, simply looking at the product is enough to determine the problem. The presence of a leak indicates that the part is faulty and requires repair or replacement.

Purpose of the device

Cars are equipped with clutch master and slave cylinders, without which the operation of the mechanism is impossible. The VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder is designed to push out brake fluid. Below is a diagram from which you can visually find out the operating features of the unit.

When you press the clutch pedal, the piston moves in the device in question, thereby pushing out the brake fluid. This liquid enters the working cylinder through a tube, where the reverse process is observed (the liquid pushes out the piston). Brake fluid drives a piston, which is connected by a fork to the clutch disc. As a result, the clutch disc and flywheel are separated, allowing you to change gear. The GCS is also called the main one, since it is with its help that force is supplied from the pedal when it is pressed.

The need to replace the device: when required

Like all parts of any car, the GVC tends to wear out, resulting in the need for repair or replacement. The simplest breakdown of a product is wear of the boot, which can be determined by the characteristic signs of a fluid leak.

To identify a cylinder malfunction, an initial visual inspection is required. It is possible to repair a failed main circulation system on a VAZ 2107; for this you can look for repair kits, but this is not always rational due to the quality of modern spare parts, so it is easier and faster to replace it entirely. The malfunction can also be determined by the characteristic loss of pressure in the system, which is determined by pressing the pedal. Let’s take a closer look at how to change a faulty VAZ 2107 mechanism.

We change it ourselves

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder begins with the need to pump out the brake fluid from the hydraulic reservoir. This can be done using a syringe or a rubber bulb. Together with this socket or a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bracket securing the expansion tank and move it to the side to gain access to the cylinder.

The next step involves removing the clutch expansion tank hose. To do this, you need to loosen the hose clamp, then disconnect the hose and position it so that it does not interfere with further work. If you want to remove the tank completely, this is done very simply.

Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

1. Using a “10” wrench, you need to unscrew the pipeline securing nut to the device. Once the nut is unscrewed, the tube can be moved to the side.
2. There is a hose nearby near the steel pipeline, which also needs to be disconnected from the main device. This can be done by loosening the fixing clamp.
3. The GCS is fixed to the body using two fastening nuts. To unscrew them, you will need to use a wrench with an extension and a “13” socket. After unscrewing the two nuts, you can remove the product and drain the remaining brake fluid from it. If it is not possible to dismantle the unit, you can press the clutch pedal, as a result of which it will move.
4. But repairs are usually not rational, so after removing the old one, a new unit is installed in its place. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to carry out the process of pumping the hydraulic drive, first pouring fuel fluid into the tank. You can find out how the system is pumped from the relevant material on the website.

After the work is completed, you can test the operating features of the new GVC. If necessary, the RCS (working cylinder) should also be replaced, but you can find out more about this in the corresponding material.

Cars of the Volzhsky plant models 01-07 have a hydraulic clutch drive. The main actuator of this mechanism of the VAZ 2107 is replaced in the event of its breakdown or failure. The cylinder is secured to the engine compartment shield on the driver's side with two studs and nuts, and a reservoir with brake fluid is installed in the upper part. A pipeline is laid from it to the working unit.

When is it necessary to replace a faulty clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107: signs and causes

In most cases, clutch control problems are associated with loss of tightness, when the pedal loses its elasticity when pressed. However, this fact is not so bad, but the inability to engage the gear is already serious.

If we put together the signs indicating the need to replace the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107, we get the list:

• A drop in the level of brake fluid in the reservoir, which indicates a loss of tightness of the hose or brake fluid. The breakdown is also determined by the spots under the car.
• Periodic “failures” of the pedal or its soft movement indicate air entering the system. Failure may be the result of a worn cuff or cracks in the working cylinder body.
• A gradual loss of pedal stiffness and difficult gear shifting indicate a broken RC spring. In this case, the fluid level remains unchanged, and adjusting the pedal does not produce any results.

Liquid leakage from the master cylinder is signaled by similar signs, so during inspection you need to pay attention to its condition.

Selection of GVC for VAZ 2107

The best option for replacement is to purchase a GCS designed specifically for classic VAZ models. Clutch master cylinders from UAZ, GAZ and AZLK vehicles are not suitable. The same applies to foreign analogues - foreign cars with rear-wheel drive are equipped with GVCs, which only highly qualified specialists can adapt to the VAZ 2107 (different sizes, different threads for pipelines, different pipe configurations). However, you can easily replace the original cylinder with a GCS from a VAZ 2121 and from a Niva-Chevrolet.

Manufacturer's choice

When purchasing a new GVC, you should focus on products from trusted Russian manufacturers (AvtoVAZ JSC, Brik LLC, Kedr LLC), the Belarusian company Fenox, which is adapted to our conditions and is affordable. The average cost of GVC is 600–800 rubles.

How to change the Lada slave cylinder yourself?

To work you will need the following set of tools:

1. Pliers.
2. Open-end wrench “17”.
3. Head "13".

It is more comfortable to carry out the repair process on an inspection pit or overpass. If this is not possible, the front part of the machine must be jacked up and placed on supports, having previously secured the rear wheels with shoes. Further work is carried out on the following transitions:

• Loosen the nut of the hose tip in the RC plug using a 17-mm open-end wrench.
• Using pliers, disconnect the tension spring.
• Unbend and remove the cotter pin at the end of the pusher using pliers.
• Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the gearbox housing.
• Disconnect the bracket that was secured with bolts.

• Having removed the pusher from the fork, take the RC in your hand and, using a 17mm wrench, completely unscrew the tip nut and remove the hose.
• Replace the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107, and immediately tighten the hose tip to avoid loss of brake fluid.
• Attach the new part in reverse order.

A certain part of car enthusiasts prefer to drain the old brake fluid before surgery, believing that this will allow them to get rid of dirt in the system. Be that as it may, bleeding and adjusting the clutch

will have to do it anyway.

How to bleed the clutch control system?

For the quality of transmission operation, the absence of air in the system is important, which is why bleeding is done. The procedure is similar to bleeding the brakes. An assistant is needed to complete the work:

• Fill the reservoir on the master cylinder with brake fluid.
• Place a rubber hose of the appropriate diameter onto the fitting. Place the other end of the hose in a container with some liquid.

• Ask an assistant to press the pedal 5-6 times and hold it in the pressed position.
• Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the fitting half a turn and release air bubbles, then tighten the fitting and repeat the procedure until the air in the liquid completely disappears.

During work, it is important to monitor the fluid level in the tank and replenish it in a timely manner.

Communities › Auto club VAZ and Lada Classic. › Blog › How to replace the clutch master cylinder of a VAZ-2107

If you begin to notice that there are visible leaks from under the cuff on the side of the clutch pedal, and there is a wet mark under the hood at the place where the cylinder is attached, while there is a sharp decrease in the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and the clutch is not being released well, then it’s time to change the clutch master cylinder.

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Leaking from under the cuff

We buy a new clutch cylinder and find time for repairs - with good skill, you can do it in an hour.

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So, we need to arm ourselves with: - An open-end wrench for 8 and 13 - A socket wrench for 13 with an extension - A flat and figured screwdriver - VD-40 or an analogue, a metal brush - A medical dropper or hose for pumping - A rubber bulb or syringe for pumping liquids— Clean jar for liquid

To begin with, use a bulb or syringe to pump out the liquid from the tank.

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Then we disconnect the expansion tank and move it to the side so that it does not interfere. Using a 13 mm wrench and a screwdriver, unscrew and remove the pipeline nut, as well as the tank hose and also move it to the side, having previously cleaned the area with a brush and sprayed it with VD.

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Now use a socket head to unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the body and remove it, not forgetting to hold the engraving washers so that they do not fall.

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It's difficult to climb, but it's possible

We scrape off the old sealant from the seat and wipe everything thoroughly. Now you can install a new cylinder. But first we check the presence of grease under the boot - everything is normal.

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From the passenger compartment, we position the piston pusher in the center of the opening; it should fit into the hole in the cylinder cuff without any problems.

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The tip sticks out

We coat the flange of the new cylinder with a thin layer of automotive sealant, let it dry a little and insert it into place.

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We install new engraving washers and tighten the bolts. Press the clutch pedal and make sure that the pusher is in place and the cylinder is working. We return the pipeline and hose to their place.

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We fill the reservoir with drained brake fluid and begin bleeding the clutch. According to the standard instructions you need to: 1. Place one end of the hose onto the clutch bleeder fitting, and lower the other end into the jar.

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2. Sharply depress the clutch pedal 4-5 times at intervals of 2-3 seconds and keep it pressed.3. Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the fitting approximately 3/4 of a turn; liquid with air bubbles will begin to come out of the hose.

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4. After the flow of liquid stops, tighten the fitting and repeat operations 2 and 3 again until the bubbles stop completely. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the liquid level in the tank is above the minimum and, if necessary, add it.5. Tighten the fitting, remove the hose, and put on the protective cap.

Now, pressing the pedal, we check the clutch - the moment of pressing the clutch should be clearly felt, the pedal should not “fall through”. We check the connections between the hoses and the pipeline for leaks, add fluid to the tank to the required level and close the lid.

Let's disassemble the old cylinder and see why it started leaking. First, use a small screwdriver or awl to remove the retaining ring.

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We do this carefully, since the piston inside is spring-loaded and can suddenly fly out along with the remaining brake fluid.

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We inspect the piston - surface wear and small scuffs are clearly visible, especially at the edges.

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The same is true on the pusher piston; accordingly, the cylinder mirror is also worn out, the rubber rings do not press tightly.

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Replacing the o-rings may help, but not for long, which is why it is recommended to replace the cylinder completely, especially since it has already reached its 10-year mark.

How to repair the working cylinder of a classic “seven” clutch?

In certain cases, car enthusiasts prefer to independently purchase not only couplings, but also spare parts for cylinder restoration on their own. This option allows you to save some money if you follow the following points:

• Clamp the part in a vice and unscrew the plug at the back.
• Remove the rubber cap.
• Remove the retaining ring from the plug side.
• Extract the internal elements of a node.
• Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bleeder fitting.

In order for the replacement of a repaired clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107 to be of high quality, you need to:

• Inspect the condition of the spring and replace it if necessary.
• Replace all rubber seals.
• Inspect the node mirror.
• Clean the fitting.

Before assembly, all parts should be lubricated with brake fluid. You cannot use gasoline or diesel fuel, because the rubber will lose its quality. Change the gasket under the plug only if there are leaks. Having assembled and installed the unit, we finish the process by bleeding the system.

The slave cylinder is the cylinder in the clutch system that directly moves the clutch fork, is mounted underneath and contains the clutch bleeder. As you guessed, today we will talk about replacing the VAZ 2106 clutch slave cylinder with our own hands.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder VAZ 2106

1. Disconnect the tension spring.

2. Using pliers, remove the cotter pin from the end of the pusher.

3. Using a 17mm wrench, loosen the fastening of the hose tip in the cylinder plug.

4. Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the clutch housing.

5. Holding the hose tip with a “17” wrench and rotating the cylinder by hand, disconnect it from the hose.

6. To reduce fluid loss, immediately screw a new cylinder onto the hose tip. Next, install the cylinder in the reverse order of removal and adjust the gap between the pusher and the fork.

After installing the new cylinder, we bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Note that after this the hydraulic drive also needs to be pumped.

Clutch problems? Does it not engage completely, is the clutch pedal “soft” or does it fail altogether? All this will tell us that the time has come to repair the clutch - the master and slave cylinders! How this is done will be discussed in this article. Here you will find: instructions for repairing the clutch on a VAZ 2107 car, a useful video, tips and features of this type of work. Here you will find information on how to change cylinders, repair and bleed them.

Adjusting the clutch release drive of the VAZ 2105 Zhiguli

1. Repair manuals
2. Repair manual for VAZ 2105 (Zhiguli) 1980-1992.
3. Adjusting the clutch release drive

Clutch pedal and master cylinder

EXECUTION ORDER ↓ Comments ↓ 1. Vehicle operation 1.0 Vehicle operation 1.1

Starting the engine 1.2 Controlling the gearbox 1.3 Driving the vehicle 1.4 Braking and parking 1.5 Operating a new vehicle 1.6 Adjusting the ignition timing 1.7 Precautions when operating the vehicle 1.8 Caring for the body 1.9 Storing the vehicle

2. Vehicle maintenance 2.0 Vehicle maintenance 2.1 Maintenance operations 3

General data 3.0 General data 3.1 Technical characteristics of vehicles 3.2. Controls 3.3. Control of interior ventilation and heating 3.4 Tightening torques for threaded connections 3.5 Tools for repair and maintenance 3.6 Used fuels, lubricants and operating fluids 3.7 Basic data for adjustments and control 4. Engine 4.0 Engine 4.1 Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination 4.2 Removal and engine installation 4.3 Engine disassembly 4.4 Engine assembly 4.5 Engine bench testing 4.6 Checking the engine on a car 4.7. Cylinder block 4.8. Pistons and connecting rods 4.9. Crankshaft and flywheel 4.10. Cylinder head and valve mechanism 4.11. Camshaft and its drive 4.12. Cooling system 4.13. Lubrication system 4.14. Power supply system 4.15. Carburetor 2105-1107010 4.16. Carburetor 21051-1107010 5. Transmission 5.0 Transmission 5.1. Clutch 5.2. Gearbox 5.3. Cardan transmission 5.4. Rear axle 6. Chassis 6.0 Chassis 6.1. Front suspension 6.2. Rear suspension 6.3. Shock absorbers 7. Steering 7.0 Steering 7.1 Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination 7.2. Inspection, check and adjustment of the steering 7.3. Steering mechanism 7.4 Rods and ball joints of the steering mechanism 7.5 Bracket for the pendulum arm 8. Brakes 8.0 Brakes 8.1 Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination 8.2. Checking and adjusting the brakes 8.3 Clutch and brake pedal bracket 8.4 Vacuum booster 8.5. Main cylinder 8.6. Front brakes 8.7. Rear brakes 8.8. Rear brake pressure regulator 8.9. Parking brake 9. Electrical equipment 9.0 Electrical equipment 9.1 Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination 9.2 Circuits protected by fuses 9.3. Battery 9.4. Generator 9.5. Starter 9.6. Ignition system 9.7. Lighting and light signaling 9.8. Sound signals 9.9. Windshield cleaner 9.11. Heater fan electric motor 9.12. Control devices 9.13. Carburetor pneumatic valve control system 10. Body 10.0 Body 10.1 Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination 10.2. Doors 10.3. Hood, trunk lid, bumpers 10.4. Body glazing, windshield and headlight glass washers 10.5 Instrument panel 10.6. Seats 10.7. Heater 10.8. Body frame repair 10.9. Paint coatings 10.10. Anti-corrosion protection of the body 11. Vehicle modifications 11.0 Vehicle modifications 11.1. Features of repair of VAZ-21051 and VAZ-21053 cars 11.2. Features of repair of VAZ-2104 and VAZ-21043 cars 11.3 VAZ-21044 cars with a fuel injection system 11.4. Design of the central fuel injection system 12. Electrical diagrams 12.0 Electrical diagrams 12.1 Interactive electrical diagram of the VAZ-2105 car 12.2 Electrical diagram of the VAZ-2104 car 12.3 Electrical connection diagram of the injection system 12.4 Connection diagram of the instrument cluster 12.5 Connection diagram of the brake system warning lamps 12.6 Connection diagram of the headlight cleaners and washers 12. 7 Connection diagram for the electric motor of the heater fan 12.8 Connection diagram for the windshield wiper and washer 12.9 Connection diagram for the turn indicators and hazard warning lights

Clutch replacement

Often, car owners prefer to simply replace clutch parts, since the cost is low and time can be saved significantly. Therefore, you can first consider the process of replacing clutch parts.

Replacing the clutch master cylinder

So:

• First you need to drain the fluid from the clutch reservoir. This can be done using a syringe - select the liquid and pour it into another container.
• You can also remove the hose from the master cylinder fitting and insert it into the same container. Slightly straighten the clamp on the fitting to make it easier to remove the hose. Do whatever is more convenient for you.
• After this, you need to unscrew the pipe fitting that fits the clutch slave cylinder.
• Then spray the two studs that secure the clutch master cylinder to the car body with WD-40 or an equivalent to prevent breaking them when unscrewing the nuts.
• Take a 13mm wrench or a socket with extensions (whichever is more convenient) and unscrew the two fastening nuts one by one.

• Remove the clutch master cylinder.

Ready! Withdrawal completed. Now let's install the new cylinder:

Advice! Before installing a new master cylinder, pay attention to the condition of the clutch reservoir flexible hose. It often happens that it cracks at the end. There are two options - either replace the hose or cut it (if the length allows).

• First you need to get the drive rod from the clutch pedal into the hole in the new master cylinder. For convenience, ask a friend to press the clutch pedal a little.
• Then install the clutch master cylinder onto the mounting studs.
• Tighten the fastening nuts with a 13 mm wrench or a socket with extensions.
• Using a 10mm wrench, connect the pipeline from the clutch slave cylinder.
• Install the clutch reservoir flexible hose.
• Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to the filler neck.

The master cylinder has been replaced.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder

Now we will change the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2107:

Advice! When unscrewing and tightening the slave cylinder mounting bolts, be careful not to strip the threads in the gearbox housing.

• Remove the spring from the slave cylinder.
• Next, you need to unscrew the tube that connects the main and working cylinders using a 10mm wrench.
  Brake fluid will flow from it - put the cap on the end of the tube, which is located on the bleeder fitting of the working cylinder.
• Unscrew the two bolts securing the working cylinder using a 13mm wrench and remove them together with the plate.
• Remove the slave cylinder.

Removed. Now we will install a new clutch slave cylinder on the VAZ 2107:

• To begin, unscrew the adjusting nuts in approximately the same way as they were set on the old cylinder. This will help you either avoid clutch adjustments altogether or reduce them to a minimum.

• Then insert the slave cylinder push rod into the fork.
• Screw the two bolts together with the plate. As practice shows, it is most convenient to tighten the upper bolt first, and then the lower one.
• Connect the fluid supply tube. Screw it into the cylinder with a 10mm wrench.
• Put the spring back on.

After replacing the working cylinder, it must be bled. If both the clutch master and slave cylinders were replaced at the same time, then read the bleeding method below:

• Unscrew the bleeder fitting 1 turn.
• Wait until liquid flows out along with air bubbles.
• When the air bubbles come out, tighten the fitting until it stops.
• Put on the cap.
• The pumping is over!

Installing the clutch master cylinder repair kit

VAZ-2106, main brake cylinder operating principle, design, repair It is not difficult to determine when it is necessary to repair the main cylinder; the main signs of its malfunction are:

• Insufficient clutch release (clutch drives)
• Any type of leakage, whether from under the nuts securing the hose and tubes, or from the end from under the rubber seals
• Master cylinder stuck in pressed position

In my situation, the main leak was due to a worn out sealing ring, in other words, fluid flowed down the clutch pedal into the passenger compartment.

I started the repair by dismantling the reservoir hose, unscrewed the clamp on the main cylinder and quickly removed it from the main cylinder, turned it up and pinched it behind the reservoir cap so that the liquid did not flow out of the reservoir. Next, I unscrewed the tube that goes to the working cylinder, I did this with a special key, it’s a pity there is no photo, but you can buy one without any problems at any auto store. All that remains is to unscrew the main one itself, it is secured with two 13 nuts and remove it from under the hood.

Main removed

The boot was removed and it was noticeable that fluid was flowing from here.

Having picked up the boot with a screwdriver, I saw exactly where the liquid was flowing from; the assumption was absolutely correct.

Next, you need to wipe the cylinder, remove dirt and rust.

After cleaning the dirt, you can begin disassembling. To do this you will need an awl or similar object.

Corkscrew ring

Corkscrew ring

We take out the ring

Next, you need to carefully remove the insides, keeping in mind that the piston is under the action of a spring.

This is what it looks like

Next, you need to clean the master cylinder body, you cannot scrape the parts with a screwdriver, sandpaper, etc., this is just in case, I use a rag with brake fluid. In repair manuals, I often came across such expressions that if rips, scratches, etc. appeared on the parts, then it is unusable. But despite all this, practice shows that despite all the risks, provided that a high-quality repair kit is installed, the master cylinder works without problems. I used this kit:

Repair kit for clutch master cylinder VAZ

We remove the old rings, clean all the grooves and holes. There should be no dust or debris there.

The ring is removed, clean the piston, install a new one

Pure "Innards"

And by the way, here is the reason for the clutch cylinder leaking:

The ring is not worn evenly

After cleaning and replacing the rings, you can assemble the cylinder, below is a photo of what should be there and how:

Here is a photo not cleaned, I added it here to show the correct assembly

Having assembled the cylinder, install the corkscrew ring

Bleeding the clutch on a VAZ 2106

After the repair has been made, it is necessary to bleed the clutch. In all repair manuals you can find standard instructions for bleeding the clutch, but it may not always help.

1. The first bleeding option is standard; it consists of filling the tank with liquid, unscrewing the bleeding fitting, putting a hose on the fitting, and lowering the other end into a container with clean liquid. Then, by pressing the pedal, we monitor when the air stops being released, and also do not forget to control the level in the tank.
2. The second method is to use an assistant - one person presses the pedal 4-6 times and keeps it pressed to the floor. The second unscrews the bleeder fitting; air bubbles should come out of the fitting; as soon as they stop coming out, you need to screw the fitting in and then release the pedal. And so on until normal operation of the pedal is restored and air bubbles stop coming out.
3. There is also the simplest method of pumping, but which does not always work - to implement it you just need to pour liquid into the reservoir and unscrew the fitting on the working cylinder. The liquid will flow by gravity through the entire system and when it begins to flow steadily out of the fitting, it can be closed and the pumping can be considered complete.

Clutch repair

Now let's consider another option - using a repair kit for the clutch cylinders - main and working.

Master cylinder

So, we have removed the main cylinder and now we begin to disassemble it.

So:

• We start by removing the fitting. Use a screwdriver to remove the retaining ring.
• After which you can easily remove the fitting with the gasket.
• Now remove the rubber boot (protective cap) by simply prying it with a screwdriver or other convenient object.
• Now, using a 22 key on the other side, you need to unscrew the plug of the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder.
• You also need to remove the retaining ring from the boot side. This can be done using two screwdrivers, or special pliers. It is more convenient to use expansion pliers.
• Now you can easily remove all the insides of the cylinder.

Now about damaged parts and their replacement:

• All rubber seals should be replaced. 2 rubber rings - on the piston and pusher rod, one on the fitting, and we also replace the protective cap if necessary.
• If necessary, replace the spring. If it is deformed or damaged.
• Also pay attention to the internal mirror of the cylinder. It should not have burrs or chips.
• If the piston is damaged or the pusher is bent, then it is better to replace the cylinder with a new one.

Assembly:

• When assembling, all parts should be washed very thoroughly.

Note! Never wash parts in gasoline or oil and do not allow these liquids to get inside the cylinder. Lubrication is carried out only with brake fluid!

• Put all retaining rings back.
• Tighten the clutch master cylinder plug tightly!

Then install the cylinder back on the car. This is how the clutch master cylinder is repaired on a VAZ 2107 car.

Working cylinder

So:

• Clamp the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder in a vice and unscrew the rear plug.
• Remove the protective rubber cap.
• Remove the retaining ring from the plug side and remove all internal parts of the working cylinder.
• Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bleeder fitting.

About details:

• Check the condition of the spring.
• Replace all rubber seals of the VAZ 2107 working cylinder.
• Check the condition of the working cylinder mirror.
• Wipe the inside with a clean cloth if necessary.
• Clean the bleeder fitting. If the edges on it are “licked”, replace it.

Assembly:

• Wash all parts in brake fluid.
• Lubricate each part with brake fluid during assembly.
• Reassemble all parts in reverse order.
• Install the retaining ring, protective cap and plug.

Install the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder on the car (see above).

Technical parameters of the seven clutch, classification and parameters

VAZ models are equipped with a single-disc clutch with a central spring

Motorists interested in which clutch is best to install on a VAZ 2107 should take into account that its type depends on the power of the power unit. The units differ in the parameters of the pressure spring, casing and dimensions of the driven disk, and the entire set consists of three elements:

1. Pressure disk.
2. Slave disk.
3. Release bearing.

Pressure plate

On VAZ classics, two types of such mechanisms are used:

• 2103 – for cars with engines up to 1.5 liters.
• 2121 – for cars with engines up to 1.7 liters.

Externally, they are almost identical, they can easily be confused - the diameter of the disk in both cases is 200 mm. However, there are still distinctive signs:

• On product 2121 there is a mark in the form of a six-millimeter hole in one of the slots in the diaphragm spring blade.
• The width of friction linings 2103 is 29 mm, and 2121 – 35 mm.

Driven disk

To decide which clutch is best to install on a VAZ 2107, it doesn’t hurt to know that a “classic” disc is quite easy to distinguish from a “front-wheel drive” one by the bends that partially cover the damper springs. Driven disks are available in two sizes:

• 200x140 – for engines up to 1.5 liters; There are two brands: 2103 and 2107, the latter has asbestos-free linings.
• 200x130 - according to the documentation, the disk is brand 2121 and is designed for the Niva, but installation on the “seven” is also possible. In addition to its size, it features a reinforced damper with reinforced diaphragm springs.

Another noticeable factor is that the 2121 driven disc has a larger number of rivets on the linings than its 2103 counterpart.

Release bearing

The part is supplied complete and has an additional name - release clutch. For “classics”, its marking also begins with a set of numbers 2101. The bearing is visually distinguished by the presence of wire brackets, which is familiar to car enthusiasts who have replaced the working cylinder on a Lada.

A set of clutch parts for Niva can be installed on any classic car. Such parts are designed to withstand heavy loads, and therefore will last longer. The only inconvenience is that the “Nivov” basket will require a lot of effort on the clutch pedal.

Bleeding the clutch on a VAZ 2107

For clutch performance, it is very important that there is no air inside the system. To do this, you need to bleed the clutch. This is done on the principle of bleeding the brakes. Two people will be required. So:

• Pour brake fluid into the clutch reservoir.
• Place a hose of suitable diameter onto the bleeder fitting of the working cylinder. Place the other end in a bottle (or other container) with brake fluid.

Important! The second end of the bleeding hose must always be below the liquid level in the container.

• Unscrew the bleeder fitting approximately half a turn.
• At this time, the second person, at the command of the first, presses and releases the clutch pedal.
• Repeat the last step until all the air has left the system and only brake fluid comes out without bubbles.

Important! Maintain the brake fluid level in the expansion tank!

• Next, you need to press the clutch pedal and, without releasing it, tighten the bleeder fitting.
• Put a cap on it.

Thus, we pumped the clutch and completed the repair of the VAZ 2107 clutch. The attached photos clearly show some details of the process. We really hope that this article helped you repair clutches on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands!

The dry single-plate clutch of the classic type on the Chevrolet Lacetti has proven to be durable and quite reliable. The hydraulic drive ensures easy pedal travel and precise force dosage. With proper care, it requires repair after a long run, but the whole picture is spoiled by the release bearing assembled with the working cylinder. Replacing the Chevrolet Lacetti clutch slave cylinder is on our agenda today.

The design and principle of operation of the VAZ 2107 clutch

At its core, a clutch is a transmission link between the engine crankshaft and the input shaft of the gearbox. In this case, a simple press of the pedal separates these two units: the engine continues to operate without changing the optimal mode, and the driver can change gear to up, down or neutral.

Clutch device VAZ 2107: 1 - flywheel; 2 — clutch driven disc; 3 — clutch basket; 4 — release bearing with clutch; 5 — hydraulic clutch reservoir; 6 - hose; 7 — master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch release; 8 — servo spring of the clutch pedal; 9 — clutch pedal return spring; 10 — clutch pedal travel limit screw; 11 — clutch pedal; 12 - pipeline; 13 — ball joint fork; 14 — clutch release fork; 15 — release spring for clutch release fork; 16 - hose; 17 — working cylinder of the hydraulic clutch release; 18 — clutch bleeder fitting

What would happen if the crankshaft and gearbox were connected directly? At a minimum, when stopping the car, you would have to turn off the engine and then start it again. Nowadays there are cars on the roads with a “Start-Stop” system, when instead of idling the engine simply turns off, but on the VAZ 2107 neither the battery, nor the starter, nor the engine itself are designed for such “extreme”. Changing gears while driving is also not the best option; the load on the gearbox will be too strong. And such jerks do not add “health” to the engine itself.

So, using the clutch you can:

• Transmit torque from the engine crankshaft to the transmission;
• Disconnect the engine and transmission, interrupting the transmission of rotation.

The clutch device on the VAZ 2107 is a classic clutch design, the simplest and most understandable:

1. The engine crankshaft is rigidly connected to the flywheel, which rotates with it. The flywheel performs two functions: it maintains the moment of inertia so that the engine pistons do not freeze at a “dead point”, and serves as one of the elements of the clutch system;
2. The driven (friction) disc is a transmission link between the flywheel and the pressure plate. It is installed on the input shaft of the gearbox and connects the clutch elements due to friction;
3. The pressure (drive) disk is rigidly connected to the clutch basket. Its task is to tightly press the driven disk to the flywheel, then the torque will be transmitted to the driven disk and from it to the gearbox;
4. The clutch basket consists of a casing and a system of leaf springs, which, when pressed, move the release plate back and separate it from the driven disk. When there is no pressure on the springs, they push the drive disc forward so that it presses the driven disc against the flywheel. The basket casing is rigidly connected to the flywheel and rotates with it;
5. The release bearing is an essential element of the clutch system. When you press it, the leaf spring of the basket is pressed;
6. The driver controls the clutch by pressing the pedal, from which the force is transmitted to the bearing through a system of rods and a hydraulic system.

As can be seen from the description, this is a “dry” (not in an oil bath) single-plate clutch, with a mechanical release bearing and a permanent connection (closed-loop system). Hydraulics are used to transmit the force that the driver applies to the pedal.

Clutch hydraulic drive device

Separately, it is necessary to say about the hydraulic drive. Thanks to it, it is possible to use the incompressibility of the liquid (maintaining a constant volume even under high pressure) and transmit force along a complex trajectory. There is no need to install complex rods and levers; hydraulics do their job perfectly.

Drive diagram VAZ 2107

The hydraulic drive system includes several elements:

1. Clutch pedal;
2. Master cylinder with expansion tank;
3. Working cylinder with pusher;
4. Pipeline and hose;
5. Release fork.

Principle of operation:

1. The force is transmitted from the pedal through the pusher to the master cylinder rod;
2. The cylinder piston moves forward and pushes a portion of liquid into the pipeline leading to the working cylinder;
3. The fluid presses on the piston of the working cylinder, combined with a pusher. The pusher comes forward and presses on the release fork;
4. The fork moves the release bearing away from the clutch leaf spring.

Thanks to the hydraulic drive, the clutch can be engaged and disengaged smoothly, avoiding jerky loads on the engine and gearbox. That’s why they say that dropping the clutch is one of the driver’s “deadly sins” (and, by the way, that’s why the clutch quickly “burns out” for beginners).

Service life of the clutch slave cylinder on a Chevrolet Lacetti

Packaged.

The Lacetti clutch basket and driven disc can easily last 130–150 thousand, while at the same time, you have to think about replacing the working cylinder after 30–35 thousand km.

Flaws

Such an insignificant resource is primarily associated with cuff leakage and wear of the cylinder mirror

. The matter is complicated by the fact that the cylinder and the release bearing are one unit. This is what Korean engineers decided to reduce the cost of the design.

Prices and articles

New clutch slave cylinder installed.

They made the design cheaper, but added headaches to Lacetti owners - the price of the original cylinder is about 4 thousand rubles

, and to replace it you have to remove the gearbox.

Catalog number of the part - 96286828

according to General Motors, however, the
Valeo 804 513
; this company supplies clutches to the conveyors of many companies, including GM. This cylinder is sold by the officials, both articles are current.

Many people improve the hydraulic clutch system by installing an external slave cylinder from the Daewoo Nexia or Chevrolet Aveo T200.

Cylinder from Daewoo!

But we won’t go into collective farming today, since both cylinders, native and external, have slightly different characteristics.

Do-it-yourself clutch master cylinder repair

The main job of the clutch system is to transmit torque from the engine to the wheels. To put it simply. The clutch mechanism disconnects the engine from the gearbox at the right time, after which it smoothly connects this duo back. During this time, the driver manages to switch to another gear.

The clutch release drive consists of the following elements:

1. Clutch pedal.

2. The clutch master cylinder, it is located directly in the chain itself behind the pedal.

3. The clutch slave cylinder, the one that moves the pressure bearing into the fork.

4. Clutch release fork.

5. Pressure bearing.

6. Pipeline system (pipe).

What is the design of the clutch master cylinder? This is just a piston, cylinder, cuffs, body. The job of the clutch master cylinder is to transmit force from the pedal, which the driver presses on the clutch slave cylinder, through the working fluid.

The need to repair the clutch cylinder

If the piston fails or brake fluid leaks through the cuffs, it is necessary to repair or overhaul the clutch master cylinder. In addition, air can enter the clutch hydraulic drive through damaged clutch master cylinder o-rings. In this case, repair of the clutch master cylinder is simply inevitable.

It will not be difficult to detect a fluid leak, since it can be seen by the “strange” behavior of the clutch pedal. When air enters the hydraulic drive, this is also accompanied by a characteristic dip in the clutch pedal.

In short, if any of the above “symptoms” are present, repairs must begin. Often, a complete replacement of the clutch master cylinder can be avoided and you can “get off duty,” as they say, with “little loss” by doing a little work with your own hands. For this purpose, car dealerships have a special repair kit for the clutch master cylinder.

As a standard, such a repair kit contains all the most frequently worn parts. A complete replacement of the clutch cylinder should only be done in extreme cases, when neither bleeding nor a complete overhaul will help.

Master brake cylinder: overhaul and repair

Dismantling and installation of the master cylinder is usually carried out according to the traditional scheme. That is, you should remember how you dismantled it, so that later you can easily install it back in place, only in the reverse order. Sorry, but I won’t describe this process in detail, since I don’t think it’s necessary.

I do not recommend disassembling the master cylinder on their own for those who do not have the slightest idea what it is or do not have basic plumbing skills. In such “severe” cases, it is better to either seek help from a specialist or completely replace the master cylinder.

After the main cylinder is disassembled, you can begin the procedure of washing the cylinder parts. This is done exclusively using brake fluid. It is advisable to change all the parts that are included in the repair kit, for example the return spring, o-rings.

When inspecting the cylinder, pay special attention to the following details: the general condition of the body, as well as the condition of the mirrors and rods. If there is slight corrosion or some minor scuffs, they can be removed using fine-grained sandpaper. However, be careful, sometimes scuffing may indicate a violation of the gap between the cylinder and the piston

However, be careful, sometimes scuffing may indicate a violation of the gap between the cylinder and the piston.

Here are some useful tips for repairing the master cylinder:

1. When removing the clutch master cylinder, the working fluid from the hydraulic drive may not be completely drained.

2. When washing cylinder parts, it is prohibited to use liquids such as mineral oil, diesel fuel, gasoline or kerosene. It is necessary to flush only with brake fluid in order to prevent swelling of the rubber parts.

3. Before assembling the cylinder, wipe all parts with brake fluid.

4. When the installation of the master cylinder is completed, be sure to bleed the hydraulic drive.

Do-it-yourself clutch master cylinder repair

Signs of a faulty hydraulic clutch

The hydraulic clutch system is combined with the brake system and, naturally, it uses the same brake fluid.

Towing a trailer greatly reduces the life of the clutch!

The life of the working cylinder is greatly influenced by operating conditions.

- towing a trailer, loading the car, driving style, frequent and prolonged disengagement of the clutch. Here are the main reasons when the release bearing along with the working cylinder asks for scrap:

1. Clutch disengagement with jerking, discs slipping.
2. Increased noise of the release bearing.
3. The clutch moves and does not disengage completely.
4. Leaking brake fluid at the junction of the gearbox and cylinder block.