Description, gearbox drive, differential of a VAZ 2110 car

VAZ-2110 is a front-wheel drive sedan produced by the Volzhsky Automobile Plant. Production of the car began in 1996 and continued until 2007. Knowledge of the structure of the car's gearbox allows the owner to objectively judge the need to adjust the gearbox, repair or replace it. And also consider the possibility of repairing the VAZ 2110 gearbox yourself.

↑ VAZ-2110 gearbox diagram

1 – rear cover of the gearbox housing, 2 – drive gear of the 5th gear, 3 – ball bearing of the input shaft, 4 – drive gear of the 4th gear of the primary shaft, 5 – input shaft, 6 – drive gear of the 3rd gear of the primary shaft, 7 – gearbox housing , 8 – drive gear of the 2nd gear of the input shaft, 9 – reverse gear, 10 – intermediate reverse gear, 11 – drive gear of the 1st gear of the input shaft
12 – roller bearing of the input shaft, 13 – input shaft oil seal, 14 – breather, 15 – clutch release bearing, 16 – clutch release bearing clutch guide sleeve, 17 – main gear drive gear, 18 – secondary shaft roller bearing, 19 – oil sump, 20 – satellite axis, 21 – speedometer drive drive gear, 22 – axle shaft gear, 23 – differential box, 24 – satellite, 25 – clutch housing, 26 – oil drain plug, 27 – driven gear of the main gear, 28 – adjusting ring, 29 – tapered roller bearing of the differential, 30 – axle shaft seal, 31 – driven gear of the 1st gear of the secondary shaft, 32 – synchronizer of 1st and 2nd gears, 33 – driven gear of 2nd gear of the secondary shaft, 34 – driven gear of 3rd gear of the secondary shaft, 35 – synchronizer of 3rd and 4th gears, 36 – driven gear of 4th gear of the secondary shaft, 37 – secondary ball bearing shaft, 38 – driven gear V gear of the secondary shaft, 39 – synchronizer of the V gear, 40 – secondary shaft.

Transmission service

A guarantee of trouble-free operation of the gear shift unit is monitoring and timely replacement of lubricants. The plant fills with TM-5-9p oil, which needs to be changed every 60,000 km due to loss of viscosity. This simple procedure will take no more than half an hour if you have:

• 4 liters of GL-4 gear oil with viscosity 75W90;
• funnels;
• 17″ key.

The next steps are:

1. Open the hood and remove the dipstick from the gearbox.
2. Unscrew the drain plug.
3. Drain the used oil into a container.
4. Screw in the drain plug.
5. Place a funnel in the dipstick hole.
6. Fill with new oil.
7. Insert the dipstick.

Causes of gearbox failure Causes of gearbox failure Before changing the oil, you need to warm it up by driving in normal mode for 15 minutes. The lubricant level is controlled by a dipstick - it should be between two marks. Experienced technicians advise replacing a new car after 3,000 km due to the appearance of metal particles in the oil after grinding in new parts.

↑ Transmission control drive

1 – protective cover of the rod, 2 – gearbox control rod, 3 – gear shift lever, 4 – spherical gear shift lever pin, 5 – ball joint cage, 6 – gear shift lever ball joint, 7 – buffer, 8 – spring, 9 – jet thrust, 10 – gear selection rod lever, 11 – gear selection lever, 12 – gearbox housing, 13 – clutch housing, 14 – gear selection rod, 15 – rod bushing, 16 – rod seal, 17 – protective cover, 18 – hinge body, 19 – hinge bushing, 20 – hinge tip, 21 – clamp.

Instructions for removing the gearbox

The procedure for removing the gearbox is labor-intensive and time-consuming. It’s easier to replace it with a VAZ 2110 by visiting a car service center, but you can do it yourself.

Tools

To carry out the procedure, you will need tools consisting of:

• a set of wrenches, socket or open-end wrenches;
• set of heads with extensions;
• flat screwdriver;
• mounts;
• pliers;
• jack;
• clean rags.

In addition, you should prepare a container to drain the used oil. You can use a plastic 5 liter bottle.

Tools should be prepared in advance so that they are nearby while working.

Sequencing

To remove the gearbox, you need access to the underbody of the car, so it needs to be lifted. This can be done using a lift, or driving the car onto an overpass or inspection groove.

The following video demonstrates replacing the clutch, the first step of which is removing the gearbox.

Removing the gearbox from a VAZ 2110 car consists of a sequence of steps:

1. First, you should remove the engine mudguard (protection). To do this, use a socket wrench to unscrew the mudguard mounting bolts and remove the protection.
2. Next, we dismantle the engine compartment shield on the right.
3. The next step is to drain the oil from the gearbox. To ensure high-quality drainage of oil, it is recommended to warm up the engine before draining, allowing it to run for several minutes. Next, place a prepared bottle or other container under the drain hole and unscrew the drain plug.

↑ Description of the gearbox

Transmission

– mechanical, two-shaft, with five forward gears and one reverse gear, with synchronizers in all forward gears. It is structurally combined with the differential and main gear.

The gearbox housing consists of three parts (cast from aluminum alloy):

• clutch housing 25,
• gearbox housing 7
• and the rear cover of the gearbox housing 1.

During assembly, a gasoline-oil-resistant gasket sealant (for example, KLT-75TM or TB-1215) is applied between them. There is a special magnet in the crankcase socket that retains metal wear products.

The input shaft 5 is designed as a block of drive gears, which are in constant mesh with the driven gears of all forward gears. The secondary shaft 40 is hollow (for supplying oil to the driven gears), with a removable drive gear of the main gear 17. Driven gears 31, 33, 34, 36, 38 and synchronizers 32, 35, 39 for forward gears are located on it. The front bearings of shafts 18 and 12 are roller, the rear bearings 3 and 37 are ball. The radial clearance in roller bearings should not exceed 0.07 mm, in ball bearings - 0.04 mm. Under the front bearing of the secondary shaft 18 there is an oil sump 19, which directs the flow of oil into the shaft.

Differential

– two-satellite. The preload in the bearings 29 (0.25 mm) is adjusted by selecting the thickness of the ring 28 installed in the gearbox housing housing under the outer ring of the differential bearing. The driven gear of the main gear 27 is attached to the differential box flange.

How to dismantle a car wheel

A tire puncture is a very common phenomenon and almost every car owner has encountered it. This malfunction does not cause problems if there is a tire service station nearby, where repairs will be carried out quickly and inexpensively. But it’s not always possible to seek services from such a service point, but you need a car and don’t have a spare tire or it’s already in use. In this case, you will have to do the repair yourself.

Restoring the integrity of the tire directly depends on its type. Tubeless products can continue to be used, but provided that the element that punctures it remains in the tire. Of course, there will be an air leak at the puncture site and the tire will have to be pumped up periodically, but you can drive. Additionally, the tubeless can be repaired using “first aid kits” for recovery. They allow you to carry out repairs even without removing the wheel from the car.

But it is impossible to repair tube wheels without disassembling them. To repair a puncture in the chamber, it must first be removed, and this is the main problem. Note that even with tubeless tires, the highest quality repairs can only be performed on the inside of the tire, and to do this it must be removed from the rim.

Nuances of the work

Disassembly would not be a problem if not for one feature. During the operation of the car, the tire at the point of contact with the rim is gradually “welded” to the metal. And this nuance causes the most problems during disassembly.

Video: do-it-yourself home tire fitting

At tire service stations, special presses are used to break the “weld,” so all the work looks very simple. In field or garage conditions, rubber tenaciously “holding” to the metal can cause a lot of trouble. But it is still possible to solve the problem.

So, the main task when disassembling a wheel is to separate its edge from the disk, along the entire circumference and on both sides. The rest of the disassembly process is not complicated and is very easy and quick, but safety precautions must be observed.

↑ Gearbox control

Transmission control drive

consists of a gear shift lever, a ball joint, a rod, a gear selection rod and gear selection and shift mechanisms. TB-1324 thread glue is applied to the screws securing the rod and lever to the gear selector rod before assembly. The lever and hinge mounting screws vary in length, coating and tightening torques. The lever fastening screw is phosphated (dark color), 19.5 mm long, tightened with a torque of 3.4 kgf.m. The hinge fastening screw is cadmium-plated (golden), 24 mm long, tightened with a torque of 1.95 kgf.m. LSC-15 lubricant is placed in the ball joint before assembly.

To prevent the gears from spontaneously switching off due to the axial movement of the power unit when the vehicle is moving, a reaction rod is introduced into the gearbox control drive, one end of which is connected to the power unit, and a ball joint race for the gear shift lever is attached to the other end.

A lever is attached to the inner end of the rod, which acts on the three-arm lever of the gear selection mechanism. This mechanism is made as a separate unit and is attached to the plane of the clutch housing.

The gear selection mechanism housing has two axes. One has a three-arm gear selector lever and two locking brackets. The other axis passes through the holes of the locking brackets, securing them from turning. One arm of the gear selection lever is used to engage forward gears, the other is used to engage reverse gear, and the third arm is used by the gear selection rod lever. A reverse fork is installed on the axle.

Adjustment

Removing and installing the gearbox of a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
On a VAZ 2110, it is not that rare that the gears engage poorly or are knocked out. A mechanism for adjusting the speed selection drive is provided specifically for this purpose.

Adjustment may be necessary if:

• the box was recently removed for repairs;
• one of the gears falls out;
• the speeds do not engage well or simply get knocked out when the car is moving.

If you have one of these problems, try making adjustments first. Its sequence:

1. Under the bottom of the VAZ 2110, find and slightly loosen the nut on the bolt that tightens the clamp that secures the rod designed to control the gearbox;
2. Use a screwdriver to slightly move apart the grooves in the end of the rod and the resulting gap on the clamp itself. This is necessary to ensure easy movement of the rod in relation to the gear selection rod. Place the rod in the neutral position;
3. Release the shift knob from the cover in the cabin;
4. Align the lever using a special template. This is done like this: install a template in the window of the rear speed lock bracket lining. After this, insert the lever axis stop into the groove of the template, pressing it without unnecessary force in the transverse direction;
5. Then adjust the axial play of the rod in the rear direction, and its axial play by turning to the left;
6. Install the clamp, not reaching a few millimeters from the end of the rod. Then tighten the clamp thoroughly with the bolt.

If the described adjustment did not help you, you need to remove and disassemble the VAZ 2110 gearbox

Pay special attention to the fact that the gears with which the first and second speeds are engaged often knock out. Don't forget to check each fastener

They are made in the form of springs, there are three of them. The first clamp is long, it is responsible for first and second gears. Second is medium, for third is fourth gear. For the fifth, the shortest clamp is used.

Design features

If you have a “ten” with an 8-valve engine, then the design provides two side and one rear support;

On a 16 valve engine there are two side mounts, one lower and one upper.

It is important to note that 8 valve engines on the 10 have a rear engine mount, while on the 16 valve there is none. But such motors can boast of having additional supports

Regardless of the design, the replacement procedure is performed using a similar method.

Malfunctions

In fact, it is quite easy to detect failed airbags, since engine vibrations will immediately increase.

If the power unit is working normally, but the body is shaking, vibration is felt on the steering rack, pedals, and dashboard, then there is no doubt that the engine mounts are worn out.

The vibration peak occurs when the engine starts and when it is turned off. If the rubber elements are completely worn out, then a knocking noise will begin to appear. It is caused by contact of engine elements with the supports.

To make sure the cushions are worn, turn on the engine, lift the hood, and visually inspect the supports and cushions. By placing your hand on the engine, you will tactilely feel an increase in vibrations compared to the normal behavior of the car.

There may be several reasons for problems.

Is replacement required?

If you find that the rear airbag or any other airbag has begun to wear out, you should under no circumstances delay repairs.

In addition to the discomfort of the driver and passengers when the car is moving, you risk delaying the breakdown until the moment when destructive processes begin in the operation of the gearbox and power unit.

When starting to repair engine mounts, you should think about whether it is worth changing the cushions separately, or replacing the mounts as a whole.

If the support is not damaged, it is not necessary to replace it. That is, in such situations it is enough to simply replace the pillow. A set of new pillows for a VAZ 2110 today costs about 1.3 thousand rubles. A set of supports will cost you 2.5 thousand rubles.

Doing the work yourself or contacting a service station is your choice. But you should know that you will be charged at least 300 rubles for replacing one pillow.

Product delivery options

Note! Below are the shipping methods available specifically for this product. Payment options may vary depending on the delivery method.

Detailed information can be found on the “Delivery and Payment” page.

Parcel by Russian Post

Available payment methods:

• Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 5 to 12 days.

Parcel by Russian Post 1st class

Available payment methods:

• Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 2 to 5 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 50%. Parcel weight up to 2.5 kg

Express Parcel EMS

Available payment methods:

• Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 3 to 7 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 100%.

Transport companies

Available payment methods:

• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Delivery is possible to any locality where there is a representative office of the transport company. Delivery time is from 2 to 10 days. Sending large parcels is approximately 50% more profitable than by Russian Post.

Pickup from our warehouse

Available payment methods:

• Cash upon receipt
• Credit, installments
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Pickup times must coincide with store opening hours.

Changing the oil

According to the documentation, the lubricant component in VAZ 2110 engines and transmissions must be changed every 15 thousand kilometers or at least once a year.

So, we need to warm up the engine well and prepare the required oil and, preferably, a new oil filter, as well as the tools necessary for the job.

gearbox housing 2110

To drain the waste, you will need to unscrew the plug from the oil pan. Next, within 10-15 minutes, the oil is drained into a special container, which will need to be prepared in advance. Then the drain plug returns to its original position and is screwed tightly. Now you can replace the old oil filter with a new one (if necessary).

Now that the old oil has been drained, pay attention to its color and presence of inclusions. If the oil is dark brown in color and to the touch contains various types of inclusions such as metal dust or pieces of dirt, then the transmission will need to be flushed

DON'T SPEND MONEY ON REPAINTING! Now you can remove any scratch from the body of your car in just 5 seconds.

For this purpose, special solutions are used, which are poured into the engine and gearbox before new oil. In this case, you will need to drive the car with such a solution for a short time and not quickly, five minutes along the garage will be enough, and then drain the mixture and the dirt that it has collected in the same way as described for the process of draining the “working off”.

In order to fill with fresh oil, you will need to remove the filler cap. In this case, from 3 to 4 liters of oil are poured into the engine, depending on the readings of the dipstick. Ideally, the oil level is between the min. marks. and max.

These marks are marked on the dipstick as the minimum and maximum values. Next, you will need to start the engine and wait until the oil light (or oil pressure light) goes out. After this, turn off the engine, check the oil level and, if necessary, remove excess or add more oil.

There are times when the light bulb just won't go off. In such cases, it is better to check the quality of the oil filter or replace it if it was not changed during the replacement process.

Finding a new synchronizer

Since the synchronizer is assembled for a specific gearbox, there is no reason to think that the mechanism from one car can be installed on the gearbox of another car. Of course, the operating principle of these two mechanisms will be the same, but, for example, their geometry may be different. It would be best to select a spare part according to:

• Vehicle VIN code;
• Code of an already installed synchronizer;
• Parameters of the vehicle and its gearbox.

• Onnuri (South Korea);
• Transporterparts (France);
• KAP (South Korea);
• Omix-ADA (USA).

Also, synchronizer components can be found in the catalogs of major European packers. The quality of these spare parts, as noted by car enthusiasts, is not always high. But spare parts from South Korean companies, on the contrary, please with both price and workmanship. As for assembled synchronizers, they can only be found under the names of automakers, i.e. originals . If you wish, you can save on buying a mechanism by choosing an option at a dismantling shop. If you are interested in purchasing a spare part with the longest service life, it is better to buy a new original.

Installation of the backstage from "Kalina"

Replacing the VAZ 2110 gearbox

On a VAZ 2110 you can successfully install a slide from Kalina:

• To do this, it needs to be modified a little.
• The cardan from the new model is 20 mm longer than the original “tenth”.
• Therefore, it needs to be cut, to do this, use a lathe.

• The replacement of the slide must be carried out in the garage from the inspection hole.
• Remove the plastic tunnel from the car interior.
• Also remove the boot.
• Remove the old rocker, unscrew all the fasteners from under the bottom of the car.
• Install a new link and adjust it.

Why is it recommended to install a cardan from the new Kalina? On VAZ-2110 models, universal joints made of less resistant material are installed, so they quickly fail. This causes premature play in the rocker, which usually affects the quality of gear shifting while the vehicle is moving. After purchasing a new link, a visual comparison should be made of the old cardan and the purchased one. The comparison will be entirely in favor of the new acquisition. The Kalina cardan is made of better quality material, it is much more wear-resistant.

Gearbox slides for VAZ 2110

After installing a new link, the lever may rattle. Since this link completely eliminates play, that is, the vibration is transmitted completely to the lever.

Fixing lever rattling

• To do this, install a new ball joint for the lever and install a repair kit.
• The ball joint must be replaced from the inspection hole, since it is easier to change it from under the bottom of the car.
• Install the retaining spring to the gear lever.

It will dampen vibration by holding the lever in the desired position. This will not affect the application of additional forces when turning on the speeds. To get rid of the rattling of the lever, you can install additional plastic washers on the gearbox axle. To do this you will need:

• material - plastic (regular lid for jars);
• open-end wrench No. 10, No. 13;
• scissors;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• flat file, you can use a small flat file.

Repair work

If the adjustment does not give the desired result, you will have to work more carefully with the box. A common problem is knocking out the gears responsible for speeds 1 and 2.

When dismantling, make sure that each individual fastener is in good working order. The latches are springs, of which there are a total of three. The first one is the longest, it is responsible for speeds 1 and 2. The second is medium in size, and its prerogative is 3 and 4 speeds. The third detent is the smallest, and its “guardian” is fifth gear.

Repair work

If the adjustment does not give the desired result, you will have to work more carefully with the box. A common problem is knocking out the gears responsible for speeds 1 and 2.

When dismantling, make sure that each individual fastener is in good working order. The latches are springs, of which there are a total of three. The first one is the longest, it is responsible for speeds 1 and 2. The second is medium in size, and its prerogative is 3 and 4 speeds. The third detent is the smallest, and its “guardian” is fifth gear.

Problems

Often, VAZ 2110 owners voice a problem regarding the switching or departure of first gear. Most likely, the reasons lie in the following:

• synchronizer problems;
• damage to the retainer spring when the lever dangles and the gears are switched on randomly;
• damaged rod and fork.

A common problem is when the second gear is reluctantly engaged, or it is simply knocked out. The most likely causes of the problem:

• poor engagement of the gear and clutch that engages the gears;
• wear of gear teeth and coupling;
• problems with the clutch.