The operation of the ignition switch (IZ) in the Lada-Kalina car is inaudible and hardly noticeable. It does not participate in the preparation of the working mixture, does not affect the speed of movement and is not able to extend the service life of the engine. As a rule, they forget about it immediately after starting the power unit. However, any damage to the lock, mechanical or electrical, makes further operation of the car impossible. It simply cannot be started. Therefore, it is necessary to have at least minimal knowledge about the design of the Kalina ignition switch, the most common faults and how to eliminate them.
General information
The purpose of the Kalina ZZ is no different from other cars - turning on the ignition and controlling the engine starter. It is equipped with a mechanical interlock and protection against restarting the starter without turning off the ignition. This allows you to protect the flywheel crown and bendix from accidental turning of the key. There is also electronic protection in the form of an immobilizer, the antenna of which is integrated into the 3Z.
The Kalina ignition switch has 3 positions, each of which is described in the table.
Side lights, radio, hazard warning lights, brake lights, courtesy lamp
Car ignition system, low and high beams, heater, washer and wipers, turn signals, fuel pump.
The key can only be pulled out in the zero position. In order not to forget it in the lock, when the engine is turned off, an audible alarm is provided, which turns on simultaneously with the opening of the driver's door.
Training procedure
Carrying out the training procedure leads to the following consequences:
- the engine control controller activates the anti-theft function if it has not been activated;
- the system changes its password to a new one chosen at random;
- a new system password is written into the training key;
- all remote controls that were previously trained are erased from memory;
- The codes of those remote control units that were trained in this training procedure are stored in memory.
The training procedure is applied in the following cases:
- activating the anti-theft function in the controller (for example, in a new car or replacing a faulty controller);
- erasing old and training new remote controls if lost;
- changing the system password if the owner admits that his system password may have been read (for example, when selling a car from one owner to another)
- remote control training when replacing a faulty immobilizer with a new one.
Only new remote control units or those that were previously trained using the training key used in this training procedure can be trained. It is impossible to learn a remote control key from another car into your car.
Please note: Due to the importance of the training key, it is not recommended to use it for everyday use and should be kept in a safe place. Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline, so as not to get confused by squeaks
Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline so as not to get confused by the squeaks.
Design
The lock consists of mechanical and electrical parts. Briefly about the design of each of them:
- The mechanical part is a cylindrical mechanism, which can only be turned with a key designed specifically for it. In addition, this includes an anti-theft latch that prevents the steering wheel from turning.
- The electrical part consists of terminals and contacts that close accordingly with each turn of the key. For this purpose, it is connected to the lock mechanics. There are only three contacts. One of them, the thirtieth, is supplied with plus directly from the battery. The remaining two (15 and 50) are intended to turn on consumers and the starter, respectively. To limit the current through the fiftieth contact, a relay is included in its circuit. The starter is powered through its contacts, and not through the Kalina ignition switch.
The immobilizer antenna is located in the decorative ring covering the 3Z. It responds to the transponder of the key inserted into the lock. The immobilizer recognizes only its own unique signal and gives permission to the control unit to start the engine.
How to remove the lock and replace the cylinder
To gain access to the trunk lock of the Kalina sedan, it is necessary to dismantle the internal plastic trim. It is held on by two bolts, which makes it easy to remove. They are located in the places where the handle is installed, in the so-called latching pistons. You can pry them off using an ordinary screwdriver.
The design of the trunk lock of the Kalina hatchback consists of two parts. This is the larva and the mechanism itself responsible for blocking the door. Elements must be disconnected individually. Below you will find information about such deletion.
If you need to replace the larva, everything can be done in a couple of movements. All you need is a deep socket and a flathead screwdriver. Then you should unscrew the bolts and release the desired part of the housing. When the work is done, you need to use a plastic screwdriver to remove the clamp, which is attached to the body of the larva. Next, it is carefully removed, holding the spring. Then the replacement is made, but in the reverse order.
Replacing a trunk lock or disassembling the entire mechanism requires a lot of effort. You need to unscrew the door lock using a screwdriver. There are only two bolts, so the job is quick. You can remove the mechanism using a Phillips screwdriver. When everything is done, just pull the lock and it will come out easily.
To summarize, it is necessary to note what tools are needed for the job. These include:
- plastic screwdriver;
- deep head;
- Phillips screwdriver.
The work is not at all difficult, the main thing is to purchase an electric trunk lock and perform all the steps described.
ZZ malfunctions
Most often, damage to the Kalina ignition switch is associated with its mechanical part. In this case, it is impossible to turn the key to the desired position. A malfunction does not arise, as they say, out of the blue. As a rule, frequent jamming of the key is observed over the course of several months, which is eliminated by rocking it in the cylinder.
Rarely, there are cases of failure of the electrical component of the Lada-Kalina ignition switch. Basically they come down to a lack of contact when turned on. This is typical only for locks with a long service life. True, there is another common reason for burnt contacts - the car owner himself.
General information about the castle
Before changing the ignition switch on Kalina, you need to familiarize yourself with the structure of this unit. It is used on VAZ 1117, 1118, and 1119 modifications. A unit is used to control the transfer of voltage to the starting system and prevent the battery from discharging.
The ignition switch here consists of several components. The kit includes the following items:
- metal case with a built-in clamp for fastening;
- mechanical block with a “secret” and a hole for keys;
- an electrical part that ensures contact closure after turning the key at a certain angle.
The designers developed this part of the car control in such a way that it functions in several modes. Let's look at them in more detail:
- zero mode allows you to effortlessly remove the keys from the hole, and when activated, the audio system, alarm system and head optics are started;
- the first position of the key is fixed and in this case it will not be possible to remove the key, since it is clamped by mechanical latches; At the same time, almost all electrical consumers are activated in it, excluding the starter;
- the second position of the key is unstable, since the driver has to hold the lock in it independently, because the position allows the starter to start.
It is important to know that it is not recommended to keep the car in the first position for a long time, as this will drain the battery.
Symptoms of a problem
The main symptoms of 3D damage are most often obvious:
- The Kalina ignition key does not turn. You should not think that it can only jam in the “0” position. Sometimes, on the contrary, the car cannot be turned off because the key does not return to the neutral position.
- A number of devices do not work, including the indicator lamps on the panel do not light up.
- The starter does not turn.
- There are constant interruptions in movement, with the disappearance of readings from control devices.
- The instrument panel lamps light up after several turns of turning the key in one direction or the other.
As with any problem, some symptoms do not necessarily point to a lock. Therefore, before disassembling it, you need to exclude all other options. This can often be done based on indirect evidence. For example, if the starter does not rotate, but when you turn the key to position “2”, the relay clicks, then the lock is working.
How to program new keys for Lada Kalina
This process is called immobilizer training. Its purpose is to write new key chips into the ECU memory in case the old ones are lost. This is relevant after replacing locks, keys, etc.
You need to perform the following procedure:
- Close all doors. Turn on the ignition and wait 6 seconds.
- Turn off the ignition. The immobilizer indicator on the panel will begin to blink quickly, confirming the start of the learning procedure.
- Pull out the red key and insert a new one, turn on the ignition. Wait for three beeps from the buzzer.
- We wait until the buzzer gives two more signals and turn off the ignition.
- If you need to train another key, then repeat steps 3 and 4. After completing training, insert the training key again for 5 seconds while the indicator is flashing and wait for three beeps. After this, two more signals should sound after some time.
- Turn off the ignition.
- We wait until the buzzer beeps once.
- Turn off the ignition for 2-3 seconds and turn it off.
- The hazard warning lights will flash and the horn will sound.
- Turn off the ignition and remove the learning key.
- We wait more than 10 seconds, then turn on the ignition with a new key.
- We wait 6 seconds and try to start the engine, if it fails, then turn off the ignition again, wait 10 seconds and repeat this procedure.
Keys with a built-in remote control for electric locks are registered in the same way.
Repair or buy a new one
There is no clear answer to this question. The fact is that it is very difficult to find a new contact group on the Kalina ZZ, in contrast to the classics, Samara and the tenth family. Therefore, you have to repair it, which without experience, skills and desire is not the best idea. Most often, owners install a new ZZ by purchasing it assembled.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the Kalina ignition switch has an immobilizer that will not respond to the new key and the car will not be able to start. Of course there is a way out. You can retrain the immobilizer for a new key. In this case, you will also have to change the cylinders on the door locks.
You can do it easier - carry two keys with you. True, it is not clear whether it is worth keeping them on one bundle. Therefore, the most reasonable thing would be to make a new “tip” and install it on the old key. By the way, it may be included in the delivery of a new lock.
Replacing the ignition switch
As always, if the work involves electricity, you need to start by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. The tool you will need is a shaped screwdriver and a small chisel. You must purchase an ignition switch in advance. In this case, you need to take into account the presence of an immobilizer. If everything is ready, you can proceed to replacement. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- After unscrewing the five bolts, remove the decorative steering column cover. The screws are different, so it’s better to remember which one was placed where. In addition, to remove the casing, you need to lower the steering column adjustment knob.
- The ignition switch is secured to two clamps, secured with bolts that cannot be unscrewed with a key. Therefore, you will have to use a chisel. You need to rest it against the cap and unscrew it with careful but rather strong blows until it becomes possible to do it with your hands. That is, you should not cut off the bolt with a chisel, but use it as an analogue of a key.
- Thus, you will have to unscrew all 4 screws.
- The lock will remain hanging on the wires.
- We disconnect the electrical connectors, and the ignition switch can be easily removed.
- Installation is carried out in reverse order.
Causes
There are several main reasons why the key in the ignition switch does not turn on a car. Depending on the source of the problem, the driver will have to perform certain actions. Practice clearly shows that quite often the problem is not serious, and therefore it takes little time, effort and money to eliminate it. Most often, the key does not want to turn in the ignition switch because:
- The steering column lock is activated;
- nodes freeze due to exposure to low temperatures;
- elements become dirty;
- natural wear and tear is observed;
- the key or other components of the locks are deformed, etc.
Each potential cause must be addressed separately. This will allow the motorist to recognize the malfunction and understand how best to fix it.
Blocking
Car owners often panic and try to figure out what to do if the steering wheel and ignition switch are locked. Such situations are explained by the presence of factory steering lock systems on many cars. This is a fairly common and effective protective measure designed to prevent possible vehicle theft. When this same locking system on the steering column is activated, then it will be impossible to turn the key in the ignition switch. Therefore, the driver is deprived of the opportunity to start the engine and drive. Don’t rush to call for help, call a tow truck and look for a suitable car service. You can try to solve the problem yourself if the car’s steering wheel and the ignition switch itself are locked at the same time. Experienced motorists recommend searching for a suitable steering wheel position. There is a point at which the steering column and lock must unlock. To achieve the desired result, try inserting the key into the lock and simultaneously turning the steering wheel in different directions. Do not do this very quickly so as not to miss the desired position. In most cases, using this method, you can fully insert the key into the ignition, turn it and start the engine. If this is factory protection from the car manufacturer, then if the position is correct, unlocking will occur. You just need to find it.
Exposure to low temperature
In some regions, winter is accompanied by severe frosts, which can easily cause the key to stubbornly refuse to turn in the ignition. Most often, this can be observed in situations where the air temperature drops below -20 degrees Celsius. Gradually, as it is used, a certain amount of moisture in the form of condensation may accumulate inside the ignition switch. When the car sits in the cold for some time, the process of crystallization of water droplets begins. As a result, frozen water blocks the moving elements of the ignition switch. Because of this, the motorist cannot start the engine and drive. The simplest and most effective solution in such circumstances would be to heat the castle. You can use any suitable available means for these purposes. The most convenient way is to use a household hair dryer, directing a stream of hot air to the center of the ignition switch of your car. But it is better to avoid using any hot liquids that freeze at subzero temperatures. This is especially true for hot water. This can only make the problem worse, because the next time you stop for a long time in the cold, there will be even more ice inside the castle.
If you don’t have a hairdryer at hand, which is quite logical when you’re not near the house, then take matches or a lighter. Carefully light them and bring the fire to the key. Gradually heat it up and insert it into the lock. The heat emanating from a match or lighter should be transferred to the metal of the key and melt the formed water crystals, thereby opening access to starting the engine. Be prepared for the fact that during the first heating the key will not be able to be fully inserted and turned the first time. The procedure should be repeated several times. But even if you are in a hurry, never bring an open flame to the lock itself. You can melt the plastic parts and create additional problems for yourself. But it’s definitely not an option to come to the car every day with a hairdryer or keep a supply of lighters in your pocket throughout the winter. Therefore, an effective solution to the problem of freezing of the ignition switch at low temperatures is proposed. When cold weather sets in, you can protect the castle from possible freezing for the entire winter period. This requires a regular medical syringe with a needle. Using a simple tool, you need to inject a small amount of brake fluid into the lock. It will prevent condensation from freezing, even if it appears there.
But remember that after the temperature rises in the spring, the lock must be cleaned. To do this, use carburetor flushing. If you forget to carry out this procedure, the lubricant will become a source of dust and dirt accumulation. As a result, you will encounter another reason for the ignition switch being stuck, which is related to blockages.
Clogging
Even if it’s warm outside, there is no frozen condensation in the lock and everything is fine with the locking, when you try to insert and turn the key to start the engine, nothing happens. Something is blocking the ignition from working properly. This is often caused by accumulated dirt. When the machine is operated for a long time, dust, dirt and other small debris accumulate in the well through the key itself and in other ways. At first it does not interfere at all, but as it increases in volume it can cause a similar problem when the key does not want to turn. This situation can be observed especially often in those cars where thick materials were used to lubricate the mechanisms. They are sticky and therefore easily attract debris.
Possible causes of ignition switch malfunctions and ways to prevent them
Most often, the cause of a malfunction of the ignition switch is severe mechanical wear of its moving parts. Contacts fail a little less often as a result of burning and oxidation. To extend the service life of the lock, when the first signs of malfunction appear, it must be removed, disassembled and inspected, removing wear and tear products, applying lubricant to the moving parts and cleaning the contacts.
The fact that the lock may soon jam is indicated by periodic jamming of the key in one of the positions, problems with its removal and insertion, or lack of proper response to turning it. Most often, at first, the ignition switch continues to perform its functions when you carefully rock the key from side to side and search for the working position. However, you shouldn’t delay solving the problem - sooner or later it will break completely. If immediate repair is not possible, silicone lubricant or a liquid such as WD-40 applied to the key and directly to the lock cylinder through the key hole can sometimes temporarily solve the problem.
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Ignition switch in viburnum: repair or replacement?
For locks of classic VAZ models, the contact group or cylinders were sold separately, which significantly reduced the cost of repairs if these parts failed. The ignition switch for Kalina can only be purchased assembled, so many people prefer to change it entirely at once, without having to worry about disassembling and reassembling. It must be remembered that in this case you will also have to change the cylinders in the door and trunk locks, since in Kalina they are all unlocked with one key. Otherwise you will have to take two keys with you.
Another nuance is that the car has a built-in immobilizer - an anti-theft system that prevents unauthorized starting of the engine. If it is activated, then when installing a new lock and using new keys, you will need to remove the chips from the keys for the old lock and install them in the new ones, otherwise you will not be able to start the car even with a working lock.
Complete failure of the ignition switch can be prevented by disassembling it, removing scuffs and wear debris, and restoring lubrication. If the damage is serious, it is better to replace the ignition switch assembly or replace worn parts by taking them from a new lock. In the latter case, you may not have to change other cylinders or carry two keys.
How to select a lock for a Lada Kalina
There are two ways to replace the ignition switch and this leads to two selection methods:
- Officially, using the key tag.
- Replacement of all car locks.
When a car owner buys a car, he is given two keys with a special metal tag with a number. Using this number you can restore the factory key or even the ignition switch. This is the official replacement method and can be done at your dealer. It is less expensive and simpler.
Another option is that both keys or the tag are lost. In this case, you will need a new set of locks with new keys. This method is more expensive and will require additional replacements of larvae.
If you have chosen the second method, then it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the list of manufacturers of ignition lock and door lock kits for the Lada Kalina:
Manufacturer | vendor code |
Original – Lada | 1118-6105006 |
Grand Rial | GR04002 |
Aroki | 132180 |
TSN | 116070 |
NIKA | 731183 |
After selecting the desired lock, you can begin replacing faulty elements.