During the life of the car, the owner has to deal with many minor problems. They are fairly easy to fix and are a bit of a hassle. But sometimes unpleasant breakdowns occur, putting the car owner in a very uncomfortable position. For example, the key is stuck in the ignition and will not turn. The malfunction is not serious, but it is quite capable of ruining your plans for the coming day. Try to get out of the situation yourself and resolve the issue using one of the proven methods.
Briefly about the operation of the lock
This switching unit is designed to turn on electrical equipment, ignition and engine starter using a key. For the convenience of the driver and the anti-theft (locking) function, the element is integrated into the design of the steering column on the right side.
In old Soviet cars, the keyhole was located to the left of the steering wheel.
The castle consists of the following elements:
- Cylindrical steel body.
- A secret key mechanism is installed inside the case - the larva.
- Contact group connecting to the larva with a leash.
- A locking rod connected to the lock mechanism protrudes from a side slot in the housing.
Simultaneously with turning the key, the cylinder rotates the shaft of the contact group. Depending on the selected position (usually there are 4), voltage is supplied to different consumers - electrical equipment, ignition system and starter. The locking rod locks the steering wheel only in the first position (Lock). In the same position, the key is removed from the well.
Renovated or new?
It would seem that what could be simpler than replacement if the key does not turn in the ignition? Whether it’s a Toyota or a domestic VAZ, it doesn’t matter. But it's not that simple. Buying a lock at a salvage site is not suitable for many people, since a used element will be in the same condition and is unlikely to last long.
To start the vehicle moving, you need to start the power unit - both experienced motorists, novice drivers, and those who never drive at all know this. In most cars, the electric charge from the battery is supplied to the starter via a contact group. An appropriate key is required, set it to the first position to start the ignition, and then turn it to the extreme position. Only after these actions does the starter operate. But sometimes the key does not turn in the ignition, and manipulations with it do not bring the desired result . No need to panic. This problem can be solved quite easily .
Causes of the problem
Car ignition switches are quite reliable devices. Before the first problems associated with wear arise, the car manages to travel from 100 to 300 thousand km, depending on the brand and country of manufacture. In order to avoid getting into an unpleasant situation, the car owner must clearly grasp the moment when the key gets stuck in any position and take measures to correct the problem.
There are 5 main reasons why the ignition switch of a modern passenger car jams:
- the locking of the shaft connecting the steering wheel to the rack is triggered and does not disengage;
- the moving parts of the secret mechanism are heavily clogged;
- working wear of elements (on cars with high mileage);
- condensate freezing;
- deformation or mechanical damage to the key.
Note. The listed problems have been successfully eliminated on new cars with keyless entry and push-button engine start.
The purpose of the locking system is to mechanically lock the steering shaft in one position and simultaneously disable the starter. If an attacker manages to break the locking rod and turn the steering wheel, it will still not be possible to start the engine. This nuance should be taken into account when troubleshooting a broken lock. A characteristic sign of a malfunction is the key jamming in the Lock position.
Clogging of the cylinder with dirt is a consequence of lubricating parts with conventional automobile oils, including motor oils. These liquids strongly attract dust, which accumulates inside the mechanism over time. At a certain point, the key jams and jams in any position except Start. Accordingly, it becomes difficult to remove it.
Similar symptoms are observed as a result of natural wear and tear of the locking mechanism on cars with a mileage of 200 thousand km. Over a long period of use, the grooves of the secret part of the key are also damaged, which does not allow them to clearly interact with the cylinder. Sometimes car enthusiasts themselves damage the working side of the key by using it as a lever (for example, to open traffic jams). The soft alloy bends and cracks easily from such exercises.
Freezing of the larva is a rare and most harmless cause of problems. Ice inside the lock appears as a result of moisture from outside or condensation when a heated car is left outside during severe frosts. A sign of freezing is easy to recognize - the inserted key does not turn, the typical “movement” is not felt in the mechanism when trying to rotate.
When contacts freeze
Russian winters are so severe that in severe frosts the castle also freezes solid. A huge number of situations when the key does not turn in the ignition occur in winter, when temperatures drop below -20 degrees. The thing is that the lock mechanism can accumulate condensation in winter. And then, when the car sits in the cold for a while, these droplets of liquid crystallize, thereby blocking moving parts. As a result, the engine will not be able to start.
The most effective and efficient option is to heat the key with a lighter or a match. The hot element is inserted into the lock and then carefully tried to turn it. If the key does not turn in the ignition the first time (and most often this is what happens), then you need to repeat this operation two or more times.
To prevent the locks from freezing with the onset of cold weather, experts recommend injecting brake fluid into the lock with a syringe and a needle. In the spring, this “well” is thoroughly cleaned with carburetor cleaning fluid. If this is not done, the lock's lubricant will accumulate dust and eventually cause a blockage. This can also cause blocking.
What to do with blocking?
When the ignition switch is stuck in the Lock position, the operation of the mechanical lock depends on the angle of rotation of the wheels. If the steering wheel gets into the sector of action of the locking rod, the latter will lock the shaft in a certain position. As a result, it will be possible to deliver the car to the repair site only with the help of a tow truck - it will not be possible to tow it.
What actions can a driver take in such a situation:
- overcome a jammed mechanism with patience and hard work;
- break off the locking rod, start the engine and move to the garage;
- remove the ignition switch by pulling the rod out of its socket.
The first method involves numerous attempts to turn the key in order to “catch” the position when the mechanism opens. Be patient, exhale and try to rotate the key head while moving the steering wheel. An aerosol lubricant like WD-40 sometimes helps to disengage jammed parts of the cylinder - blow it through the tube into the keyhole.
The first option is the only one that allows the car owner to get by with “little loss” and get to a garage or service station.
Try the method before taking drastic measures .
Let your wife twist the key - maybe she will succeed the first time. On cars where electronic starter locking is not provided, you can break off the rod by sharply turning the steering wheel, applying medium force. Then the car starts by shorting the wires or turning the released key. What are the consequences of such a barbaric method:
- the broken rod will remain inside the steering column, where it will begin to rub, jam and wedge the shaft;
- from excessive force, the shaft may bend and during the repair of the lock it will have to be replaced with a new one;
- if the larva remains motionless, you will need to remove the casing, get to the contacts and find the necessary wires to start the power unit.
The complete disassembly option is suitable for all situations where the lock is jammed. The task is not an easy one - you need a tool and an understanding of how to dismantle the unit in a certain car model. The task is to get rid of the blockage and get to the contact group, whose shaft can be turned manually or with a screwdriver.
In any case, unscrew the plastic lining of the steering column and examine the fastening of the lock: you may be able to remove it. After unscrewing the nuts or screws, disconnect the housing and at the same time move the steering wheel to release the locking rod. If things go wrong, the only thing left to do is call a tow truck.
Answers to popular questions
The principle of operation of locks on almost all cars is approximately the same, which is why similar questions arise.
How to lubricate the lock cylinder
It is usually stated that the most popular lubricants among motorists, such as WD40 and silicone, are harmful to the larvae. As for silicone, its use is really inappropriate here, but WD will effectively wash the lock from invisible contaminants and even lubricate it, although its anti-wear properties are not great.
Regarding the thickening of residues, we can only say that there are almost none of them left there, they are relatively harmless, and if they still interfere, then a new portion of WD40 will instantly change the situation, wash and lubricate everything.
How much does a new larva cost?
A new Audi A6 with a body and a pair of keys from a good manufacturer will cost 3,000-4,000 rubles. It will be even cheaper to buy a part from disassembly, an original one, in “almost like new” condition.
The new original, delivered from Europe, is much more expensive, about 9-10 thousand rubles. But there is no need to order it, so such goods are unpopular in trade.
Clogging and freezing of the larva
Due to dirt accumulated inside the lock, the key jams and jams in various positions. If the jam occurs in the intermediate position indicated by the letters ON and ACC, it cannot be removed. What to do:
- purchase WD-40 lubricant in an aerosol can from your local auto parts store and blow it into the mechanism through the keyhole slots;
- make attempts to turn the key by rotating it in different directions and swinging it in the lock;
- periodically add lubricants to dissolve the dirt inside the larva;
- Gently tap the key head and lock with a light hammer or similar object.
Recommendation. During the manipulations, keep the car on the hand brake. By focusing on the stuck mechanism, you may not notice the car rolling away.
Usually the blockage can be cleared using these methods and the key is turned at least once. This is enough to get to the nearest car service center or garage. If attempts are unsuccessful, it is necessary to dismantle the lock or get to the contact group in another way. Without disconnecting the wires, turn the shaft with a screwdriver and start the motor. Do not touch the key - you may accidentally engage the mechanical lock.
A frozen mechanism is “treated” by warming it up . Pouring hot water is not allowed: just heat the key with a lighter, insert it into the well and try to turn it. The second option is to fill the mechanism with warm WD-40 lubricant from a heated can.
What to do if the ignition switch is jammed in an Audi A6 C5, Passa B5
Two situations are possible, in one of which the key turns, but the lock does not perform one of its functions, or the key cannot even be turned.
In the first case, the cylinder can be removed quite easily; it is enough to release it through the hole located next to the protective washer with a slot for the key in the ignition on position. If the key is lost or jammed, everything is much more complicated.
Removing the larva
The cylinder can be removed quite easily if it is possible to rotate it with a key. If the lock is jammed, you will have to drill out the housing opposite the latch and press it through the resulting hole.
It is possible to determine exactly where to drill only if you have a faulty body for experimental destruction.
Bulkhead code frames (secrecy pins)
Theoretically, it is possible to disassemble the cylinder, remove the pins, read the codes from them and order a repair kit with the same numbers.
This is a very time-consuming and labor-intensive procedure; it is much easier to replace the lock with a new one. In addition, it is unlikely that everything will work out clearly on the first try for an inexperienced repairman.
You can even refine the pins by filing them. This will compensate for their wear, as well as damage to the key. The work is very delicate and requires great skill.
Production in the ignition key
The key wears out in the same way as the cylinder, but it can be ordered quite inexpensively from a specialized workshop, where they will make a copy taking into account the wear of the sample. It will be necessary to remove the cylinder for precise fit and error-free operation of the lock and key.
Wear and deformation of the key
In a situation where a worn ignition switch is jammed, it is necessary to perform all the manipulations described above. The goal is to start the engine and deliver the car to the repair site. Use a similar approach: swing and turn the key, lubricate the cylinder with aerosol.
If you are on the road away from any shops, use motor oil for lubrication. Remove the dipstick from the engine and drip lubricant onto the working part of the key, then insert it into the well several times. If there is no result, disassemble the lock - there is no other way out.
Often the cause of a jammed lock is a bent key. Having discovered deformation, bend the splined part on a flat area with light and careful blows of a hammer. A cracked or broken key cannot be used - a piece of metal may remain in the lock the next time you try to start the engine.
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With prolonged use, the key may simply break and wear out. Contacts are erased and deformed.
A spare key, which almost everyone always has, will help you here. If you don't have a spare one, you can try restoring the old one. But this is relevant in a situation where it has been bent and deformed. It is impossible to build up erased contacts with your own hands.
It is usually recommended to insert worn keys and try to turn them in different positions and with different forces. There is a chance that you will be able to hit the secret key and the engine will start. But the key needs to be replaced soon.
Repair or install a new one
Many people believe that a change is the best option, but this is not entirely true. Buying a disassembled lock is not an option for everyone, since a used device is in a similar technical condition and is unlikely to work for a long time.
Repair or new installation?
In addition, the new keys will not fit the trunk/glove compartment. It will need to be registered in the car (does not apply to our cars). Undoubtedly, you can carefully disassemble the element from the old lock and remove the chip from it, and then put it on the purchased copy.
But the best option is to restore the larvae. This way you can keep the old copy of the keys in use. If it is necessary to cut a new body onto an element, it will be made according to the original characteristics.
