Replacing the tension roller stud of a VAZ 2109

characteristics :

Left thread length: 20mm;
Thread length from right: 25 mm;
Material: galvanized steel;
Thread: M10;
Thread pitch - 1.25.

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Replacing the timing roller on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099

Removal

1. First, remove the casing and locate the roller that is secured in the center by one nut. Unscrew it using a wrench, or better yet, a spanner. Then remove the washer located behind, pull the timing belt by hand in the place where it touches the tension roller (look at the large photo) and you can safely remove the roller from the stud, by the way, there is a spacer ring behind the roller (see small photo), it is very important and make sure that it does not fall and is in good condition; if necessary, replace this ring with a new one.

Note! The distance ring provides distance to the roller and the belt fits exactly where the belt passes. Due to this ring, the roller does not touch the belt and spins without much care to the side, so the belt does not fly off and does not come into contact with any parts on the side.

Carry out in the reverse order of removal. After installation, a belt is put on it. Do not forget about the two holes on the roller for a special key; they should be directed not inward, but outward. Thanks to them, the belt is tensioned with a tension roller (for more information about tension, read the article: “Replacing the timing belt on a car,” point 2).

Additional video

We have attached video material on the procedure for replacing and installing a new video, enjoy watching:

Replacing the tension roller VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109

Many drivers often do not have time to delve into the design features and subtleties of repairing a particular vehicle component. And if the purpose and maintenance of the main elements (for example, the engine, radiator, bridge, battery and others) is not difficult, then problems may arise with smaller parts. So, in practice, few people know what a timing belt tensioner pulley is needed for, what its malfunction can lead to, and how to change it. The information in this article will fill your knowledge gaps.

Purpose

The tension roller is one of the main elements of the gas distribution mechanism. The quality of tension of the timing belt, which connects the engine crankshaft and the car generator, depends on its serviceability. As a result, the stability of the on-board network voltage and normal battery charge are ensured.

How it works? When the engine is turned off, the generator is immobilized, so the battery takes on the entire load. After starting the engine, the crankshaft (via the timing belt) transmits rotation to the generator rotor. From this moment on, the on-board network switches to a new power source.

The purpose of the roller is to maintain the belt tension at an optimal level. In case of strong constriction or, conversely, weakening of the latter, the following problems are possible:

— the appearance of unnecessary noise when the engine starts (for example, a squeaking or whistling belt); — a decrease in the voltage level, which leads to malfunctions of on-board devices and poor battery charging; — roller jamming. In this case, you definitely won’t go far.

How to determine the malfunction?

When the engine is running, the tension roller is in constant motion, in the mode of friction and load from the timing belt. Consequently, sooner or later it will expire and require replacement. The service life can be found in the factory operating instructions (most often it is about 40-50 thousand kilometers). But, as practice shows, replacement may be needed much earlier.

A breakdown can be diagnosed by the following signs:

— the appearance of defects on the bracket, bearings and other parts; - presence of play; — obvious abrasion of the roller; - grinding or squeaking. To check, remove the timing belt and rotate the roller by hand - it should make a slight rustling sound.

There should be no creaking or squeaking. If everything is quiet, try another experiment. Put the belt back in place and treat the inside of it with WD-40.

If the squeak (whistle) disappears, then the problem was most likely in the belt.

So, a serviceable tension roller should have no defects, signs of wear or play. And most importantly, it should rotate silently even when turned lightly by hand. Go ahead.

Should I change it myself or contact a professional?

Many car enthusiasts underestimate their strength and, at the first sign of a malfunction, go to a service station. The advantages of this method are undeniable - you receive a repaired car within 1-2 hours (without a queue) and do not worry about the repair (replacement) technology. On the other hand, you will have to spend some money on paying for the services of a specialist.

In fact, there is no need for such expenses. Replacing the tension roller with your own hands is a matter of 30-40 minutes. The main thing is to prepare the necessary tools, a workplace and follow the recommendations in the article.

The thread of the tension roller of the VAZ 2109 was torn off

I tightened the timing pulley nut and the pin turned in the head. damn =((I got out of it with some metal chips, tried to turn it over. No big deal! So you screw it in normally; the thread seems to be there at first, but then it disappears. The question is how to do it?

September 17, 2012 / Author admin / Category Timing belt repair / Comment

When replacing the timing belt, I encountered one problem: when the belt was already installed, it was necessary to fix the roller in the tensioned position of the belt. The nut that tightens the roller was not tightened and the stud began to rotate in the body of the block head. I had to remove the roller again, and after unscrewing the pin, it was discovered that the thread into which the pin was screwed was pulled out along with it. The force with which the fastening nut is tightened must be sufficient so that the roller cannot unscrew; repeated replacement of the belt, possibly mechanical stress, such as belt breakage due to failure of the pump or tension roller bearing, weaken the threaded connection.

The first thing that came to mind was the need to increase the diameter of the internal thread and install a stud with an enlarged thread. The old pin has a diameter of 10 mm, naturally we increase the thread to 12 mm. To do this, we use a tap with a diameter of 12 mm, pitch 1.7. For the first time we go through the thread with tap No. 1

and then with tap No. 2. Our carving is ready. Now a pin is needed. It should be 10 mm in diameter, since a tension roller cannot be installed on a 12 mm diameter, and the diameter of the thread that is screwed into the block head should be 12 mm. Any turner can easily make such a pin, but the first thing I did was go to an auto parts store, and they had such a pin on sale.

Apparently my case is not the first. We screw the pin into the enlarged thread and install the tension roller. We install the timing belt according to these instructions.

Replacing the timing belt VAZ 2109

The timing belt is replaced every 50,000 km of vehicle mileage, or every three years of vehicle operation. The timing belt is designed to synchronously transmit torque from the crankshaft to the engine camshaft. This means that a certain position of the engine crankshaft corresponds to a strictly defined position of the engine camshaft. There are special marks: one on the camshaft drive gear, the other on the flywheel of the engine crankshaft, but more on them later. The camshaft's job is to provide valve timing. At the required moment of the intake stroke, open the intake valve of the cylinder and keep the exhaust valve closed. During the compression stroke, keep both valves closed, and during the exhaust stroke, open the exhaust valve and keep the intake valve closed. This is what is called valve timing.

If the timing belt is not replaced in time, it may break due to wear. The valves at the moment of rupture will remain in the position of the camshaft when the rupture occurred. That is, if the intake valve was open, it will remain open and will be hit by the crankshaft piston, as a result of which the valve will bend. The piston head may also become dented, resulting in an expensive overhaul of the engine. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the timing belt and, if necessary, replace it.

So, you have driven 50,000 km on your car and the timing belt needs to be replaced. Where to begin? First, of course, you need to purchase a timing belt and tension pulley from a car dealership. The most recognized and reliable belts are Bosch and Gates. It is better to buy a metal tensioner roller rather than a plastic one. And remember one important point: there are old and new tension rollers. The old style video looks like this:

Old style tension roller

The new type of roller differs from the old one in that it has a different inner race:

Tensioner roller VAZ 2109 new model

Therefore, if you purchase a domestic roller from a plant that produces products for AvtoVAZ, it may be an old model. If the tension roller is imported, then it will probably be a new model.

So, let's proceed directly to replacing the timing belt on the ninth family. We lift the hood and first of all remove the thermostat from the air filter and unscrew the bolts securing the timing case

Unscrew the timing case

Unscrew the timing case fastening

Protective cover removed

Now you need to remove the tension roller. Unscrew the nut securing the timing tension roller and remove it

Unscrew the tension roller

Now you need to remove the engine crankshaft pulley. To do this, turn the wheels as far to the right as possible, unscrew the protection mount and bend it to provide access to the pulley.

Unscrew the crankshaft pulley VAZ 2109

Unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut

After unscrewing the nut, we take out the generator drive roller along with the belt.

We take out the generator drive roller

After this, remove the timing belt

Removing the timing belt

Let's look at his condition. When bending, there will be microcracks on it. It needs to be replaced. But first you need to check the machine pump. To do this, simply turn the pump drive gear by hand. If it turns easily and there are no extraneous sounds, then everything is in order with the pump. Now we need to remember the marks that we talked about earlier. It is necessary to align the timing gear strictly according to the mark

Camshaft mark

Now we set the engine crankshaft to the mark

Crankshaft mark

We install, but do not clamp, the new tension roller. And now you need to put on the new timing belt strictly according to the marks.

We put on a new timing belt

Now we adjust the tension of the car's timing belt using a tension roller

Adjusting the timing belt tension

Normal tension is when you can turn the belt 90 degrees by hand. We clamp the tension roller. Reinstall the roller and generator drive belt and tighten the crankshaft pulley nut.

Reinstall the generator roller and belt

Ready. Now, having checked the marks again, you can start the engine and visually check the engine operation. The belt should not dangle or rub against the engine. During operation, the belt may play left and right by 1-2 mm. If everything is in order, secure the wheel protection and replace the casing.

Reinstalling the casing

Well, that's all, the new timing belt and tensioner pulley are installed on the nine.

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#1 nrgizer79

Users
79 messages
City: St. Petersburg
Auto: 21099i

VAZ 21099 engineer 1.5l 8kl Background: During the next trip the engine started knocking. He stopped and began to study. It turned out that the fastening of the tension roller was loose, the belt slipped several teeth. I tried tightening the roller nut. It didn’t work out, the fastening became loose because the thread of the stud in the cylinder head was torn off and the stud was simply pushed out. I screwed the pin in the other way (the thread is longer there), adjusted the belt, tightened it, and drove home. Now I’m actually thinking: 1. Leave the pin with the longer side, but fill it with thread reducer (high-temperature); 2. Cut a 12mm thread and screw in the repair pin. The first option is “scaring” in that the “tenacity” of the thread restorer may not be enough and the stud will tear out again. The second, accordingly, is that the thread will be cut crookedly and the timing belt will move away (it’s very inconvenient to crawl up). Who has had this happen, who solved it and how long it has been working. PS: and ass. could something have gone wrong in the engine, it was knocking loudly, I almost turned gray when I heard it

#2 Sir YareG

thinks he is telling the “Truth”)) Fail

Blocked

3,403 messages

City: Railway-City
Interests: Depeche Mode & Cars!
Auto: Behind The Wheel.

I have had ! Second option. A repair pin costs 10 rubles. The main thing is to cut the thread properly in the head.

#3 DIMAN

Users

326 messages

City: M.O. Shchelkovo
Car: VAZ 21061 sprint edition, GAZ 3102

* */ VFTS is not mine, I just charged the five!” (c) S. Brundza Stasis Brundza is so severe that he even goes to the bathhouse with a safety cage © Edgar

#4 nrgizer79

Users

79 messages

City: St. Petersburg
Auto: 21099i

If it `s not a secret. how they cut it, or rather how they drilled it out. Without drilling, the sword will not fit on M12. It seems like you can unscrew the front engine mount and jack it up, then use a drill to get to it. but this is in question. Well, or remove the entire head, which is of course worse!

#5 sim

Users

2 messages

Car: VAZ 21099

I have the same problem! The thread in the engine is broken! The repair pin does not fit (( You need to drill and tap. Different services say different things. Some say that you need to remove the engine anyway, and someone says that you can drill and tap anyway. I wonder who how did you do it?

#6 lucky star

Users

660 messages

City: SEAD
Interests: Tuning vases of any complexity
Car: VAZ 2108T

#7 Seryoga (kira)

Users

233 messages

City: Moscow Maryino
Car: VAZ 21093

#8 sim

Users

2 messages

Car: VAZ 21099

#9 2bad4u

Users

5,860 messages

Moscow city
Interests: Striving for excellence
Auto: none.

Men's Motors is a highly specialized professional service for the repair and maintenance of automobile engines.

#10 lexleb2008

Users

97 messages

Auto: 21043

tension roller stud

Hello everyone, I’ll tell you about the further development of events, I drove it to the service center, I decided to do the following, install a new belt, respectively, new rollers and try to start it, since the mechanic had the opinion that the valves might not have met since the teeth were cut off at the bottom of the belt, that is, on the crankshaft pulley, he he said that if the camshafts did not separate from each other, then perhaps they did not meet, they set the timing belt according to the marks and lo and behold, the car started up and ran smoothly, they adapted the engine to 0.5, only one jamb surfaced when you pressed the gas, the car up to 1000 rpm picks up speed very stupidly above a thousand everything ok, the throttle valve error is on, but it was on before, the former owner gave me a new throttle valve with the car, it’s just that the car didn’t behave like that before before the belt, everything was fine, please tell me what could be the reason, and I also want to measure the compression in order to confidently hold on to the steering wheel and not to worry that it could still get caught, although the engine mechanic convinces me that if we met, we would probably hear it after starting, and by the sound of the engine, the compression is ok. Is it worth measuring the compression? and another problem started to tighten the timing belt tension roller, the nut doesn’t fully grip, it feels as if a stud is being pulled out of the block, is this possible or are they stupidly trying to get me to repair the mechanic, they say that they will have to lower the engine to cut a thread for the repair stud

He’s a mechanic, like a doctor, you either believe him and get over him, or you don’t believe him and self-medicate. In this situation, it is difficult for you to advise anything, the roller carries a large and constant load, there have already been cases when the pin was unscrewed, and from here there are corresponding consequences (((Not advice! - I would listen to the mechanic. Regarding compression, if the engine is running at startup and during operation it would release bluish, acrid, nasty, smelly, etc. smoke from the chimney, then there would be no point in worrying.

I decided to listen to a mechanic who would lower the engine and cut a thread for the repair pin,

I ran into a similar problem the other day! the thread in the head was licked off, the previous owner retightened it, and I still drove and didn’t think about it. When replacing the rollers, the service center said that a different pin needs to be made. Fortunately, my father has a lathe and turned out the same one, only on one end there was a 9 thread. In the service, they cut the thread calmly, without lowering the engine. Everything works wonderfully. I wonder how much they charge in Cheboksary for replacing a timing belt and rollers?

[QUOTE=Stasengel;431753] the thread in the head was licked off, the previous owner retightened it, and I still drove and didn’t think about it. When replacing the rollers, the service center said that a different pin needs to be made.

Indeed, on 2-liter diesel engines, or rather on original timing belt repair kits, or rather studs from 2010-2011. there was a marriage not recognized by officials until now! but according to TPI, there was an instruction to tighten the tension roller nut instead of 25Nm and further turn it by 90 degrees. tightening to 25Nm without further tightening and seating the nut on the thread lock. Now regarding what happens on the 2.0 TDI if the teeth on the timing belt are licked off or it is torn! or set the belt without fasteners, etc. that is, the intake and exhaust are out of sync! if this happened without starting, i.e. When you control crank the crankshaft, you will feel how the valves of one of the cylinders bluntly rest against the piston and you will not damage anything! If during normal starting, you will hear a sound reminiscent of a hammer hitting a full bucket of nuts! The consequences in this case are different! starting from clogged pistons of the hydraulic compensator valve itself on a couple of cylinders (8 pieces), it’s impossible to determine visually! Or slightly bent valves on one or two cylinders. With all this! and with the subsequent correction of the synchronization without replacing the hydraulics and valves, oddly enough, the car will work well! (well, except for a slight rattling of the hydraulics when cold and in the cold, a slight loss of compression (determine by starting the cold, not the first time, lubricate the starter for 5- 7, and a slight increase in oil consumption, as well as increased blue smoke from the exhaust at revolutions from 2000 to 4000 thousand. Well, the worst thing! if the timing belt breaks under load, i.e. from 2000 to 4000 thousand revolutions, i.e. while driving or you Didn't notice that after replacing the timing belt, the engine works like a tractor, but you continue to accelerate in the hope that now everything will fall into place and the knocking will go away! First of all, the valves bend and the heads of the hydraulic compensators stupidly break off! At the same time, the roller axle of the hydraulic compensators bends in those places where the hydraulic compensators are broken And for a snack! If for some reason a water hammer occurs, starting from the penetration of coolant into the pressurization system or into the cylinders, or the injector needle of one of the cylinders is stuck and so much diesel fuel has accumulated that just don’t worry! We usually get a torn piston pin and a bent connecting rod! So as not to create controversy in this topic like (what if that? what if that? but you are wrong here, I saw it differently)! I indicated what I was dealing with on 2.0 TDI engines

Signs of a faulty alternator belt tension roller

First, make sure that the alternator belt tensioner pulley needs to be replaced. Signs of its malfunction are listed below:

the generator does not fully charge the on-board network or it does not receive electricity at all;
from the side where the belt is located, a sound similar to squeaking is heard;
a hum is heard;
the roller or belt vibrates a lot when the power plant is running;
there is play in the video;
The belt is worn on one side.

Some of these symptoms may indicate a problem with the components that drive the roller. A hum and squeaking noise may indicate wear on the bearings of the power steering pump, air conditioner or compressor. The malfunction may lie in the generator itself.

Signs of a faulty timing belt tension roller

It is necessary to install a new tension pulley every time the engine timing belt is replaced.

For engines of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars this is once every 75,000 km. Usually he calmly nurses this period.

But, in a number of cases, for example, when a low-quality part was encountered or if, when replacing a belt, a decision was made to leave the old roller, since it seemed to be nothing yet and perhaps lasted for one period of time (but the roller was received and did not live up to expectations), it is possible that malfunctions.

Its main malfunctions are: loosening of the fastening, leakage of lubricant, wedging and installation with a skew.

Let's figure out what signs indicate a malfunction of the timing belt tension roller so that when they appear, we can quickly replace it and prevent the unpleasant consequences of a breakdown. Using the example of engine 21083 of VAZ 21083, 21093, 21099.

Signs of a faulty timing belt tension roller in a car engine

Noise from the timing drive side.

If, when the engine is idling, a hum and noise in approximately the same tone and even with some squealing is heard from the side of the protective cover of the timing drive, then it is quite possible that its source is a faulty tension roller. Of course, it is almost impossible for an ordinary person to understand that it is the video that makes the noise, so you need to exclude other possible culprits from the list.

Similar noise can be made by the pump bearing, timing belt, bearing and alternator drive belt.

The generator can be eliminated simply by removing the drive belt from it. It's more difficult with a pump. You will have to dismantle the protective cover of the timing drive and shake its pulley with force. If there is noticeable play (and perhaps there is even coolant leakage from under the pulley), then most likely it is the bearing on the pump shaft that is making noise.

We inspect the timing belt for wear. Most often, it rubs against the protective cover of the timing drive, so it is driven off the pulley and a distinct noise appears. Or it may be poorly tensioned and therefore make noise when rotating. You can check the belt tension by hand. The tension is considered sufficient if you can forcefully turn it around the axis 90 degrees with your fingers.

Checking the timing belt of engine 21083 by turning it 90 degrees around its axis

Well, the video itself. Let's examine it. If there are traces of lubricant squeezed out of its housing, it means that the belt was overtightened during installation and too much load was placed on the roller. A roller deprived of lubrication will definitely make noise. In addition, it is necessary to loosen the tension of the timing belt and apply force to the roller in different directions by hand, checking the play, and also twist it, assessing the smoothness of the move. A roller with play or too free movement when rotating is best replaced. Regardless of whether it makes noise or not.

Loosening the tension roller

Details of replacing the tension roller and tensioning the belt with it are described in detail in the article “Replacing the timing belt on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 vehicles.”

Unstable engine operation at idle.

Due to the fact that the roller is poorly secured and has shifted somewhat, loosening the tension of the timing belt may cause some shift in the phases of the gas distribution mechanism, the valves will open and close at the wrong time and the engine will shake.

In the worst case, the belt may jump a tooth or two, and then problems with starting, attempts to stall, decreased power and throttle response, shots in the muffler or carburetor will be added to the unstable idle.

It is necessary to check the alignment of the timing marks and the belt tension.

Worn timing belt.

The belt is “eaten up” on one side or the other if the tension roller is installed skewed (its pin is bent) or it has strong play. In this case, the belt is simply driven off the pulley and abraded, for example, on the front protective cover of the timing drive.

The timing belt was driven off the pulley and “eaten”

To solve the problem, sometimes it is enough to replace the tension roller, and sometimes you also need to change the bent roller pin.

The tightening torque of the tension roller nut is 33.2 - 41.2 N.M (3.4-4.2 kgf.m). You shouldn’t apply more force, since then you can probably bend the roller pin and get a problem with belt abrasion.

Notes and additions

— On engines 2108, 21081, 21083 of VAZ cars 2108, 21081, 21083, 2109, 21091, 21093, 21099, a tension roller with number 2108-1006120 is installed.

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How to replace the timing belt tension roller on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?

This roller is very easy to replace, you don’t even need to remove the belt itself from the pulleys, just unscrew the nut that secures this roller and then remove it from the car engine!

1. First, remove the same plastic casing that we talked about above and after removal, you will see that same roller in front of your eyes, it is attached to one nut in the center, you will have to unscrew it using a wrench or, better yet, a spanner, and when the nut is completely unscrewed , remove the washer located behind it, pull the timing belt by hand in the place where it touches the tension roller (look at the large photo) and you can safely remove the roller from the stud, by the way, there is a spacer ring behind the roller (see small photo), it is very important and make sure that it does not fall and is in good condition; if necessary, replace this ring with a new one.

The distance ring ensures the distance of the roller and thus it stands exactly in the place where the timing belt passes, while, due to this ring, the roller does not touch anything and the belt spins along the roller without much care, thanks to which the timing belt It doesn’t fly off and doesn’t really come into contact with anything on the side!

The new roller is installed in its place in the reverse order, the timing belt is put on it after installation and do not forget, the tension roller has two holes for a special key, they should be directed not inward, but outward, and due to them the belt is tensioned tension roller (You can find out more about how to tighten the timing belt in the article: “Replacing the timing belt on a car”, read point 2 in that article).

You can see the process of replacing the tension roller in the video that we specifically linked to this article below:

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Timing roller pin of VAZ 2109 torn off

September 17, 2012 / Author admin / Category Timing belt repair / Comment

34 comments on “Repair pin. The repair pin of the tension roller has come out”

Maybe it's time for a pump.

It's not like there's no way out. To change the block because of one stud. Find a good craftsman or turner, I think.

Beer can washers for the roller. Look on YouTube about the shrinking belt, there is a lot of information

Friend. This will continue to cause problems. I would advise changing the head. Well, let's face these homemade products, the belt will break and the valves will bend

Stas, 8klop doesn’t bend the valve

Alexey, they say 1.5 is not oppressive, but 1.6 is oppressive. Idk

The valve does not bend either 1.5 or 1.6

Try to put the video from 1.5 16 cl

Alternatively, maybe take a ride

If washers do not help, then argon will help. And cut it again on the machine!

Stas, 1.6 has been running since 2012 on motors with new pistons

Gennady, ha I have a 2008

Yesterday, the washer under the roller was slightly ground off on one edge, now the belt will move in the other direction...

Make half-washers and give them a hand, I’ve been riding with them for three years now, everything is fire

I also had a belt slide down to the engine, put a 0.5mm washer, and it was in the center

Ivan, look on YouTube there are videos on how to make a channel Alexander Skripichenko master

They will press together and won’t go anywhere, the main thing is not to do it exactly in half, but to make it a little more than half. I have everything so far thank God))) good luck

Don't drive, come on! There is a thick ground washer between the roller and the wall of the block. The pin only presses the washer against the wall and the roller aligns parallel to it. And the belt is eating because the pulleys are worn out. Change the entire set of pulleys, roller and pump with belt. Everything will be fucked up!

Free forecast! Write!

The hairpin can be made of mild steel and bends. If the thread is cut crookedly, the pin can be bent, but this is definitely not easy to do

Andrey, This whole fucking thing started after I got a pin unscrewed while driving, well, I immediately replaced the timing belt, before that there was nothing like this even close... the pin was screwed in a little crookedly, it’s barely noticeable, the thick washer that was between the roller and the head was ground off a little Now the belt goes out.

Buy a new washer and tighten it

The hammer will help you, on the original stiletto it also led away, knocked a little and everything was fine..... the main thing is without fanaticism

Stas, he only bends 1.6 Grant engines, his timing belt is in a separate case, but the simple ones that went to 10-14 will never bend anything

Alexander, at least this makes me happy

Ivan, and in Tyr-Tyr-Net they advise putting cans under the roller, and for some it helps, but only for some and by chance, and not for everyone at once, but after two or three belts. Agree that it is cheaper to buy everything once than to change a new belt every week. Moreover, gears cost pennies. Just got a pump, and even then it’s worth 50 thousand, not that much money.

Repair of tension roller stud VAZ 2109

Good morning! I really need help. I have a VAZ 2114, 8 valve. The tension roller repair pin has fallen out. I ordered a stud with a 10/14 thread. They cut the thread and installed it, but after a couple of days I noticed that the timing belt was sliding towards the engine, and it was being eaten away. Along the way, the thread was cut crookedly, and the stud was barely noticeably shifted towards the headlights. Please tell me what can be done here, except how to change the head. I would be very grateful..Repair pin.

34 comments on “Repair pin. The repair pin of the tension roller has come out”

Maybe it's time for a pump.

It's time to change the pump

It's not like there's no way out. To change the block because of one stud. Find a good craftsman or turner, I think.

Beer can washers for the roller. Look on YouTube about the shrinking belt, there is a lot of information

Friend. This will continue to cause problems. I would advise changing the head. Well, let's face these homemade products, the belt will break and the valves will bend

Stas, 8klop doesn’t bend the valve

Alexey, they say 1.5 is not oppressive, but 1.6 is oppressive. Idk

The valve does not bend either 1.5 or 1.6

Try to put the video from 1.5 16 cl

It will be wider

Alternatively, maybe take a ride

If washers do not help, then argon will help. And cut it again on the machine!

Stas, 1.6 has been running since 2012 on motors with new pistons

Gennady, ha I have a 2008

Yesterday, the washer under the roller was slightly ground off on one edge, now the belt will move in the other direction...

Make half-washers and give them a hand, I’ve been riding with them for three years now, everything is fire

Gennady, cut a beer can to size, did I understand correctly?

I also had a belt slide down to the engine, put a 0.5mm washer, and it was in the center

Vlad, won’t the half pucks fly out during operation?

Ivan, look on YouTube there are videos on how to make a channel Alexander Skripichenko master

They will press together and won’t go anywhere, the main thing is not to do it exactly in half, but to make it a little more than half. I have everything so far thank God))) good luck

How to tighten the timing belt on a VAZ 2109

With normal belt tension, its front branch should be twisted 90 degrees with the thumb and forefinger of the hand with little effort. Excessive tension will reduce the life of the belt, as well as the coolant pump bearings and tension pulley.

Using a 17mm wrench, loosen the nut securing the tension roller.

By inserting a screwdriver between two screws or rods installed in the hole of the tension roller, turn the roller counterclockwise, tensioning the belt. Tighten the tension roller mounting nut.

Next, you need to make two full turns of the camshaft so that the belt is tensioned along its entire length.

This can be done either by holding the crankshaft with a 19 key,

and using the front right wheel, you first need to jack it up and put it in 5th gear.

Signs of a faulty timing belt tension roller