Replacing the ignition coil on a Lada Vesta. Recommendations for selection and prevention

Replacing ignition coils and spark plugs on LADA cars

According to the technical maintenance regulations for LADA cars, spark plugs are changed every 30,000 km. Depending on the engine, replacing the spark plugs will require removing high-voltage wires or individual ignition coils (ICO). Let's look at this process in detail.

On cars Lada Vesta, XRAY, Largus, Priora, Granta, Kalina, Lada 4×4) all actions are performed in the same way.

Differences for 8-valve engine

Firstly, keep in mind that for an engine with 8 valves (VAZ-11189), a key of 21 mm is used, not 16. Second, instead of disconnecting the plug on each coil, you will need to disconnect the shank power cable on each plug. There are also design differences - on an 8-valve engine, the spark plugs are located directly at the top of the cylinder block. However, as a result, there is nothing complicated here either; in short, the procedure looks like this (described for each candle):

• disconnect the shank wire;
• using the 21 socket, unscrew the spark plug;
• replace the old spark plug with a new one by tightening it (but not excessively);
• connect the tail cable back.

Replacing individual ignition coils

The engine has four individual ignition coils (one for each cylinder). The ignition coils are mounted directly on the spark plugs, and there are no high-voltage wires.

Required

: disconnect the negative wire from the battery and prepare a key depending on the engine:

• for VAZ 21126, VAZ 21127, VAZ-21129 and VAZ-21179: TorX E8;
• on K4M: key “8”;
• on other VAZ engines (including Renault H4M): key “10”.

How to remove

:

1. Remove the plastic engine cover (pull up against the resistance of the clips).
2. Remove the block with wires from the ignition coil (press the lock).
3. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolt.
4. Remove the ignition coil by pulling it up.

:

1. Apply a special dielectric high-temperature grease to the inner surface of the coil tips with a roller with a diameter of 2 mm (for example, General Motors 12345579, Renault 8200168855, Beru 0890300029, DoneDeal Silicon Dielectric Grease, etc.).
2. Install the coil onto the engine in reverse order.

The process is also shown in the video:

How to disassemble the ignition module of a VAZ 2110

Many car owners are faced with the problem of their car not starting. If it suddenly turns out that high voltage has disappeared on the cylinders (either only on one, or on several at once), or the warning lamp does not light up, there is no spark, then the engine will not work. The ignition module may have failed. It's not always worth rushing to stores to look for something new.

Those who own a VAZ-2110 car are offered an alternative - repairing the ignition module themselves. The main thing is to have basic knowledge of auto electricians and the ability to understand circuits and contacts. It’s also a good idea to know how to use a digital multimeter in your work.

In order to disassemble the ignition module, you will also need knowledge of its components. This is a pair of ignition coils designed to excite high-voltage pulses, and a two-channel switch. Basically, high-frequency pulses can disappear in the 2nd and 3rd cylinders. You will have to start by removing the ignition module. The high-voltage wires are disconnected, then the VAZ-2110 ignition module itself is removed.

The essence of the repair is as follows:

To open the aluminum plate you will need a straight screwdriver. Looking at the inside of the module, it may seem that everything is very complicated. Attention should be paid to the printed circuit board, which is coated with transparent silicone. The sealant is removed. To make the wires with which the board is connected to the contacts of the connectors and coils, too soft aluminum is used, so they become unusable. Such wires are torn off and thrown away. What should I put in place? You will need a computer mouse, which will have to be disassembled. It only requires stranded wires. The ignition module circuit includes two L497D1 switches, which are also manufactured by two fairly powerful transistors. The contacts are aluminum, so for soldering you will need a special flux for aluminum. First, the wires are soldered to the board itself. During manufacturing, the collectors are coated on top with a special metal that cannot be soldered. Therefore, before soldering the wires, the coating is removed from the metal. Then the plate is placed on the stove and heated to one hundred and eighty degrees, the heat will be distributed throughout the plate

This is important so that when the soldering iron comes into contact with the plate, the heat does not dissipate from it. Now you can proceed directly to soldering the wires to the module contacts. Try to make the wires as short as possible.

Next, take a varnish (the varnish you use to paint your nails will also work), and use it to insulate the joints. Next, you need to check the ignition module. It must be functional. And the final touch: the inner surface is coated with autosealant, after which the assembly is completed. The wires should be positioned freely and not be pinched.

The work is not that difficult, and can be done by anyone who can work with a soldering iron and have basic knowledge of electronics.

If after repair it turns out that the cause of the malfunction was different, then this reason needs to be found, or go to the store for a new module.

Replacing spark plugs

Required

: wait until the engine has cooled down, and also the high spark plug head depending on the engine:

• H4M: "at 14";
• K4M, K7M, VAZ-21129, VAZ-21179, etc. 16cl VAZ engines: “for 16”;
• VAZ 8 class engines: “21”.

How to remove

:

1. Depending on the engine: disconnect the high-voltage wire (pull) or remove the individual ignition coil (see above)
2. Clean all dirt from the spark plug well (clean with a narrow, hard brush, then blow with compressed air) to prevent dirt from getting into the engine cylinder.
3. Unscrew the spark plug and remove it from the spark plug well.

:

1. Screw the spark plug in by hand (without a driver).
2. Tighten the spark plug to 31-39 Nm. (Over-tightening the spark plugs may damage the threads).

The process is also shown in the video:

Typical coil faults

The main problems include:

• systematic operation of the vehicle in elevated temperature conditions;
• wear of the insulating materials inside the plastic case, as a result of which the current conductivity decreases;
• short circuit of conductors;
• transformer burnout due to low voltage of the on-board network (below 11.0 V);
• mechanical damage to conductor products: breakage, peeling, deformation;
• excessive vibration of the power unit;
• breakage of conductors inside the circuit.

Other (spare parts, maintenance) Lada Vesta

Products from the Dustershop77 range on the topic of the article:

How to replace the ignition switch on a VAZ 2170-VAZ 2172?

1. First, remove the negative terminal from the battery (How to do this, read the article: “Replacing the battery”), we strongly recommend that you do this, otherwise there may be a problem with the wiring (For example, the wires will be shorted, or moisture will get on them, which is very undesirable), after this operation is completed, crawl under the steering column and unscrew while there all the screws that secure the protective cover (There are seven screws in total, all of them are indicated by red arrows in both photographs below) and then remove it, but before that , first lower the lever that fixes the steering column down (Indicated by a blue arrow), otherwise the cover will not be removed.

2. Now look at the ignition switch, namely at the back part, there are two wires coming from it, you follow these wires and disconnect them at the place where they connect to other wires, for more details about these places, look visually at the two photos below:

3. Well, now the most difficult thing is to unscrew the bolts that secure the lock (They are all indicated by red arrows), in order to unscrew them, you need to apply a chisel to them obliquely and hit them with a hammer and chisel, as if trying to unscrew them (That you need to hit counterclockwise), and when the bolts come off, you can take pliers and finish the job with them, by the way, if you can’t get the lock out, then take a drill, drill bits and drill out all the bolts, but just be careful, don’t damage the steering column .

4. When the lock is removed, you can, in principle, change it and install a new one in its place, but we will still show how it is disassembled, in case you need to replace the contact group, in general, let’s get started, first bend the connector lock using a flat screwdriver (see . photo 1) and then, remove the terminals from the connector (see photo 2, they are removed using a thin screwdriver, any terminal has a latch for which it hooks, so you will need to press it with a screwdriver and just pull out the terminal, and so on with each ), then squeeze the plastic latches with your fingers (see photo 3) and pulling the metal body of the lock, separate it and the plastic cover as shown in photo 4.

Note! When you remove the terminals, remember how they were positioned (You can mark them), during reassembly all the terminals must fall into place, otherwise the wiring will not connect correctly and the car simply won’t start, or the wiring will shorten, be careful with this!

5. Finally, bend the two latches that are made of plastic (Be careful not to break them, see photo 1) and after that, remove the contact group from the plastic cover of the ignition switch (see photo 2), inspect the contact group after removal, inspect all contacts of the lock cover, if any contact is oxidized, then carefully clean it with sandpaper, if the contact is severely damaged, then replace the contact group with a new one or replace the lock assembly itself (If the lock is broken, the lock is assembled in reverse order of removal, do not forget about the terminals (see photo 4 for how they are located), they will have to go into the same places, when installing the ignition switch, insert the key into it and turn it from position 0 to any other and you can put the lock on your place, and when everything is assembled and installed, replace the transponders in the ignition keys, otherwise the car will not start (For more details about this, see the video clip, which is located at the end of the article).

Note! If you suddenly need to retrain a key, then retrain it, this is done easily (How to retrain a key, read the article: “Retraining car keys”), but essentially this operation should not be affected if you replace the transponders, in general, after replacing the transponder , start the car, if it doesn’t start (the ignition should light up, but the starter will not respond), then relearn the key!

Additional video: Look in more detail at the process of replacing the ignition switch in cars of the tenth family (In Priors, everything is done exactly the same way), so that you have at least a little idea of ​​how to remove the nuts that secure the ignition switch, how to then unscrew them with pliers, and so on Further.

Note! As for the transponder, watch the second video, which is located in exactly the same way, just below:

The ignition system of any car includes various elements and mechanisms to ensure the most optimal start of the power unit. One of the main components is the Priora ignition switch, with which the driver can start the engine. We will tell you more about the malfunctions, as well as the replacement of the seal below.

Main types of IKZ breakdowns

Let's move on to the main reasons that cause malfunctions in the car's ignition system. A common cause of IKZ failure is the influence of external factors; the use of counterfeit spare parts cannot be ruled out. This factor can spoil the function of the ignition system. In cold weather, deterioration in the performance of the ignition system is also noticed.

Ignition coil malfunctions manifest themselves as follows:

• the car refuses to start the first time, while accelerating slowly, losing power;
• the following checks will be displayed on the display: from 0301 to 0304;
• The engine does not start and stalls in any position; when warmed up, the car starts much better.

If the car’s ignition system fails, there are a number of reasons that contributed to this:

• incorrectly replaced spark plugs;
• filters replaced at the wrong time;
• gasoline or diesel fuel of poor quality;
• oxidized contacts of coils, relays, controllers and other equipment;
• damaged electrical wiring;
• penetration of liquid under the hood;
• generator malfunction;
• other damage to parts;
• low temperatures.

This means that to avoid problems with the ignition system, you need to change the spark plugs on time, fill in good quality fuel, and prevent water from getting under the hood of your car. Monitor filters and wiring; such monitoring is necessary for proper operation of the ignition system.

Manufacturers and cost of analogues

• “FENOX” (Fenox) - IC16003O7 - KZ VAZ 2110-2112 16kl. + controller M7.9.7 2112-3705010-03 – from 916 rub.
• “France Car” (FranzKar) - FCR220807 - KZ 21120-3705010-10 - from 814 rubles.
• “STARTVOLT” (Startvolt) - SC 0110 - Module for VAZ-2110i-2112i (1.6 l engine, 16 cells) (IKZ) - from 711 rubles.
• “ZOMMER” (Zoomer) - 2112-3705010-12 - KZ 2112, 2170 1.6 16 cl. ZOMMER – from 1100 rub.
• "AVTOVAZ" - 21120-3705010-13 - KZ - from 987 rubles.
• "DELPHI" - 2112-03705010-11 - MODULE 2112 engine, 1.6l

16 valves, engine - from 1000 rubles.

• “France Car” (Franz Car) - FCR20V014 - KZ 21120370501011 - from 789 rub.
• "AVTOVAZ" - 21120-3705010-11 - KZ - from 987 rub.
• “ELKAR” - 2112.3705010-11 - KZ V-2110.12 (16 valves) - from 1397 rub.
• “QUARTZ” (Quartz) - QZ21705010 - KZ 2112, 2170, QZ21705010 - from 816 rubles.