VAZ 2109 will not start: the starter does not turn, what should I do? distribution of the cause of the breakdown, do-it-yourself repair

04.03.2022 7 003 VAZ 2109

Author: Ivan Baranov

Many owners of Russian-made cars are faced with the problem of the inability to start the car, and the reasons may be different. And quite often it happens that the VAZ 2109 does not start due to the fact that the car’s starter does not turn. You can learn more about this malfunction, as well as options for solving the problem, from this material.

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Solution

First you need to put your “nine” in neutral gear, and also turn on the parking brake.
After this, the hood opens, you need to find the red cable on the retractor.
Using a thick screwdriver, you need to short-circuit the terminals on this component. When a short circuit occurs, sparks may fly in different directions - there is no need to worry, this is a normal situation.
Then you need to try to start the engine. If you notice that the starter starts to work normally when screwing in, then the problem is not with it. If the device does not turn, then most likely it will need to be changed.
If the mechanism is working properly, the red wire from the solenoid relay must be removed, and voltage from the battery must be applied to this terminal. If there is a pop, the relay will be fully operational. If there was no clap, then most likely the reason lies precisely in the relay.
Check the contacts on the starter, it happens that due to oxidation it stops turning.

Possible causes of failure of the VAZ 2109 starter.

So, there are actually quite a lot of situations in which the starter stops working. For example, if you are trying to start your car and you hear a clicking noise, there may be a problem with the car's fuse or wiring. Also, the starter retractor relay may not yet work, or the reason may lie in the wear of the bushings. In such a situation, I recommend checking the contacts on the relay, since they may simply oxidize. But first of all, make sure the battery is working, I advise you to read my articles:

car battery is not charging
battery light is on

To do this, simply turn on the lights and/or hazard lights. If you can do this, it means the battery is charged and working properly.

Individual situations

If the VAZ 21099 injector stops starting, you can try to close the contacts of the mechanism in a straight line.

But sometimes there are emergency situations when the device stops functioning, let’s consider a few of them:

The injection engine does not start in cold weather, but all devices work normally, the battery is charged. If there is no click, you should first diagnose the safety components, electrical circuit, and also the solenoid relay. If the device clicks, the relay must be replaced.
all day, there was a spark, but in the evening the engine stopped starting. Before, you need to fully charge the battery, and then clean the contacts both on the battery and on the mechanism itself. If these steps did not help solve the problem, you need to check the battery itself more carefully - try closing the contacts with a wire, which may cause a spark to melt. If this does not help, try applying a positive charge from the battery directly to the relay. If there are no changes, the unit will have to be replaced.
If the car was operated normally all day, but after parking for five minutes it stopped starting, you can try to close the mechanism. You need to directly close two bolts on the relay; if this helps, but later the problem reappears, then disassemble the unit completely. Most likely, the problem lies directly in the erasing of the brushes. In this case, they will need to be changed.
The unit does not turn at all, but the car can be started from the pushrod. If the problem is not with the starter, then check the fuse box and ignition switch. But before this, you should check the wiring - the reason may lie in the oxidation of the contacts.

A starter, without it you can’t start the car, which means you won’t go far. The success of the trip depends on its performance. Therefore, you need to figure out how to prevent its failure, or fix an existing breakdown. Let's take a closer look:

Alarm Signals
Malfunctions

Candles

Unscrew the spark plug, place it against ground and crank the starter. If there is a spark, then there is probably a problem in the fuel system. We will tell you about it later.

It is necessary to do otherwise when the unscrewed spark plug works properly, but it turns out to be wet. Here you should check the timing belt. The latter sometimes jumps off, which disrupts the correct gas distribution and, accordingly, the VAZ engine does not want to start.

If you see that the spark plugs are filled with fuel, then perhaps this very circumstance is preventing you from starting the engine. Dry them with a burner or on a gas stove burner. When they turn out to be wet again during the next attempt, you will have to find out why this happened.

If there is no spark, the cause is sought further. It often lies in problems:

crankshaft pulley or sensor that controls its position (DCPV);
computer.

In most cases, the VAZ model 2109 injector does not want to start precisely because of the failure of the DPKV. Failure of other sensors does not prevent the engine from starting, it will simply not work correctly.

Starter malfunctions

As you operate a vehicle with a starter, problems of various types may occur. Each breakdown manifests itself with its characteristic symptoms, which allow you to quickly and correctly identify the problem and eliminate it in a short time.

The starter works, but the engine does not start

If you hear that the starter is functioning, but the engine does not spin, then the problems may be of the following nature:

Worn overrunning clutch gear teeth. This leads to the fact that there is no engagement with the flywheel teeth and rotation does not occur. Tooth wear is normal. However, the failure of this part can be accelerated by the use of thick motor oil, incorrect operation of the relay, or prolonged cranking of the starter after the engine has already started. When the teeth wear out, you will hear a characteristic buzzing sound from the device without any further action. Teeth can also wear out on the flywheel, which is quite rare. If the starter gear breaks, the Bendix will need to be replaced.
The fork itself, which engages the gear with the flywheel, may fail. In such a situation, you will hear that the relay has activated, but the drive sprocket has not moved out of its place. With such a problem, the starter will turn, but without transmitting torque to the flywheel.
It is possible that the Bendix drive gear may be misaligned, such that it will not fully engage with the flywheel. This happens when the Bendix spring supporting the gear is deformed. If in such a situation you try to continue to start the engine, the teeth on the bendix or on the flywheel itself may break off.
It may be that the starter is unable to spin the crankshaft until the start occurs. The malfunction comes down to problems with power supply (wiring, brushes, oxidized battery terminals). In such a situation, the starter will simply not have enough voltage due to its drawdown.

If the bendix wears out, the starter will turn, but the engine will not be able to start.

The starter clicks but doesn't turn over

If the starter makes clicking noises, but nothing else happens, then the reasons should be looked for in the following:

With one powerful click, you can judge that the retractor relay is working, but the force of this device is not enough to turn the motor. If several unsuccessful attempts have been made, the starter will need to be dismantled for further disassembly and troubleshooting of parts. The probable causes of this phenomenon may be wear of the starter brushes and bushings, short circuit or breakage of the coils, poor contact of the power wire, problems with the retractor or bendix.
With several clicks, the fault lies in the solenoid relay, unreliable contact between the starter itself and the relay or ground. Before you begin repair work on the starter, you need to check the reliability of the connections, starting from the battery and ending with connecting the wires to the starter.
Bendix malfunctions (breakage of teeth or fork).

Video: the starter clicks but does not rotate using the example of a VAZ 2110

https://youtube.com/watch?v=M4lhK1TG-ZM

Crackling sound when turning on the starter

There are situations when, when trying to start a car engine, the starter makes sounds in the form of a crackling or grinding sound. In this case, malfunctions may be of the following nature:

The fastening of the starter to the power unit has become loose, resulting in vibration.
The bendix is worn out.
Lack or lack of lubricant on the shaft, which led to difficult movement of the bendix.
Broken flywheel teeth.

The starter does not turn on

If the starter does not respond to turning the key in the ignition switch, then the reasons should be sought in the following:

Problems with the solenoid relay. To determine that the problem is in this element, it is necessary to apply voltage directly from the battery to the starter power terminal. If the motor starts to crank, then the reason is obvious - the traction relay is faulty. The contact pads in it quite often burn out, which will require disassembling the device and cleaning the contact elements.
Broken ignition switch. Sometimes the contact group fails, which can be replaced without completely replacing the lock.
Problems with power supply. It is necessary to check the entire circuit from the voltage source to the consumer.
There is a short circuit in the winding, which will be indicated by a characteristic burning smell and the appearance of smoke. In such a situation, the starter must be dismantled and the windings replaced or the old ones rewound.

Due to burnt contacts in the contact group of the ignition switch, problems with starting the starter may occur.

Alarm Signals

The starter is the highest-loaded electrical consumer in a car. If, when starting the car, an extraneous sound, noise, or crackling appears, or it becomes clear that there have been changes in the operation of the starter, action must be taken without delay. On a VAZ 2109, problems with the starter can be different, some of them can be fixed with your own hands by reading how to do it or watching a video. Here is a small instruction on faults.

Malfunctions

If the starter on a VAZ 2109 does not start, first you need to do a basic check
Check the fuse in the fuse box for the starter.
Check the relay responsible for the starter, it is located in the engine compartment (photo 2).

Changing the relay (Photo 2)

If, however, the starter does not work on the VAZ 2109 and the problem is different, you need to contact a specialist.

On VAZ 2109 the starter barely turns
Is the alternator belt too tight?

Advice! If the problem is different, you need to contact a specialist; perhaps the starter bushings are worn out or another reason. More often on a VAZ 2109, the starter turns poorly due to wear of the front bushing installed in the engine crankcase.

On a VAZ 2109, the starter sticks (by turning the key to the “engine start” mode, the starter is activated for 1-2 seconds, which is not enough to start the engine and stops)
The armature bushings may need to be replaced.
On a VAZ 2109 the starter sticks, in other words on a VAZ 2109 the starter does not turn off (releasing the key after starting the engine, the starter continues to work)
It is possible that the contacts (nickels) of the starter solenoid relay are sticking.
Or there is a malfunction in the contact group of the ignition switch - the contacts have fused.
On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn in the cold (the starter turns a little, but with a lot of tension, or does not turn at all)
Another option involves heating the battery in a warm room (do not make the temperature difference too large, for example, placing it in hot water)
You can also start the car by throwing power from another car
If the previous options did not help, the battery needs to be replaced.
On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn, the relay clicks (when you hold the key in the “engine start” mode, the relay automatically turns on and off)

This happens because there is enough battery charge for the solenoid relay to operate. When the contacts close, the starter consumes a lot of current, but this current is not enough for it to work. The voltage on the battery drops and the solenoid relay returns to its original position. There is no more load, again there is enough current for the retractor to work. The actions are repeated. So:

On a VAZ 2109 the starter does not turn on (the solenoid relay turned on, but the starter did not turn on)
The starter may have burned out
starter jammed

Advice! If the starter is burned out, sometimes it is more advisable to buy a new starter; the price of the starter varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

The brushes are worn out and do not reach the anchor (photo 3)

On VAZ 2109 the starter is cracking
The bendix (the mechanism that engages with the flywheel) is worn out.

This is where the starter is cracking (Photo 4)

Advice! One of the most common starter malfunctions is armature play. How to eliminate play in the VAZ 2109 starter armature. The sliding bushings need to be replaced. The greatest difficulty for some is replacing the front bushing located in the crankcase (photo 5). Namely, how to get this bushing?

Solutions

We select a suitable tap, screw it into the bushing and pull it out.
Or cut the bushing with a sharp object (screwdriver, small chisel, etc.)

Bushing in the body (photo 5)

At first glance, there are a lot of starter malfunctions, but nothing is impossible. What is made by human hands can definitely be repaired, and with the necessary knowledge and skills, this can be done much faster and with better quality. Good repair.

Causes of malfunction

Before we begin to study the causes of the malfunction, we remind you that hereinafter we are talking about the crackling noise of the starter, which is most similar to the loud rattling of the contacts of an electromagnetic relay. If you hear an unpleasant metallic grinding noise from under the hood, then it appears due to poor engagement of the overrunning clutch (starter Bendix) with the flywheel teeth - that’s a completely different story.

Most often, the starter crackles when you turn the ignition key for three reasons:

Low battery

To understand the cause of the crackling noise due to a discharged battery, let's remember the starter device. When you turn the ignition key, the voltage from the on-board network is supplied to the coil of its solenoid relay. The electromagnetic forces that appear in this case cause the armature of the device to move. It closes the power contacts that connect the starter motor to the battery, and in addition, causes the Bendix gear to engage with the flywheel.

When the battery is discharged, its energy may be enough to attract the metal core - cranking the crankshaft is out of the question. As soon as the starter contacts close and power is supplied to its electric motor, the voltage drops to such an extent that the electromagnet is unable to hold the metal core. Under the action of the return spring, it tends to take its original position and opens the power contacts. The restored voltage contributes to the repeated retraction of the anchor, and the situation is recreated many times.

To make sure that the culprit of the problem is a deep discharge of the battery, just turn on several consumers (lighting, electric heater motor, etc.) and press the sound signal. The latter will either not turn on at all, or will be heard with wheezing, reduced amplitude or attenuation.

Poor engine ground contact

The picture of what is happening is practically indistinguishable from the case discussed above, with the only difference that the test for battery discharge ends with a negative result - all consumers, including the sound signal, are working at full strength.

At the same time, it is very simple to determine that the cause of the malfunction is poor contact between the battery and the engine - just pay attention to the oil pressure warning lamp, which is located on the instrument panel. If the voltage in the car’s on-board network is below normal, then turning the ignition switch to the “Start” position will lead to a gradual attenuation of the brightness of the warning lamp (like all others)

In the case where the cause of the crackling sound of the starter solenoid relay is a bad ground, an attempt to start the engine will lead to its complete extinction in time with the clicks of the solenoid relay. At the same time, other indicators practically do not change the intensity of the glow.

Everything is explained very simply - the “mass” of the oil pressure sensor, as well as the starter, is the housing. Therefore, as soon as the electrical contact between the engine and the battery is lost, both of these devices stop working synchronously.

Open or shorted starter relay winding

Another reason why the solenoid relay cracks is an interturn short circuit or a break in its holding winding. In other words, the efforts of the electromagnet become insufficient to keep the power contacts of the starter relay in the closed state and engage the overrunning clutch gear with the flywheel ring gear. Under the action of the return spring, the bendix tends to take its original position, and the contact pad located on the armature opens the electrical connection. After this, the retractor winding turns on again and the situation repeats itself many times, which causes the crackling noise.

It is possible to determine that in this case the starter solenoid relay has failed by the behavior of the warning lamps located on the instrument panel. At the moment when the loud clicks of the starter are heard, their brightness does not change - the switching of the starter motor occurs for such a short time that the battery voltage practically does not drop.

Something else useful for you:

The starter does not turn the retractor, but clicks
How to check the starter solenoid relay?
Why doesn't the car start, but the starter turns?

Fuel system

If there is a spark in a carburetor or injection engine, it should be assumed that the car does not start due to problems in the fuel supply system.

First make sure that gasoline is flowing into the injectors. If not, then look at the VAZ fuel pump. It is equipped with an electric motor and is located directly in the tank. Normally, when the ignition is activated, it starts to make noise.

It is advisable to find out whether the pressure in the ramp is normal. Measure it with a pressure gauge - there is a special fitting for it. Connect the device to it - if the reading is 4 atmospheres, then everything is in order. Low pressure appears due to a clogged fuel filter; this element will have to be removed and cleaned.

If there is no positive result, move on to the injectors. When they become clogged, gasoline either stops flowing altogether or its volume noticeably decreases. Moreover, it does not spray, but only drips. This problem does not make itself felt while the engine is hot. In frosty weather, the car, even if it starts moving, will still not be able to develop normal power.

In addition, fuel atomization does not occur when the computer does not open the injectors. Make sure they have all the wires and are securely attached.

In winter, a Lada, which has a carburetor or injector installed on its engine, faces another problem. When cold, the timing belt teeth slip or shear, preventing the engine from achieving proper valve timing. Accordingly, it won’t start.

To check, remove the timing cover and inspect the marks installed on the camshaft and flywheel. If they are in the correct position, then the cause must be sought further.

Other reasons why the starter may not respond when the ignition is turned on

In some cases, there have been malfunctions in the operation of automobile anti-theft systems (car alarms, immobilizers). Such systems simply block the supply of electric current to the starter after the security mode is removed. At the same time, the diagnostics shows the full functionality of the battery, power contacts and other elements of electrical equipment that are involved when starting the engine from the starter. For an accurate determination, it is necessary to directly supply power from the battery to the starter, that is, bypassing other systems. If the starter works, then there is a high probability of failure of the car's anti-theft system or immobilizer.

The next item to check is the solenoid relay. If it breaks, the starter can:

Bendix and retractor

The above symptoms will indicate that the fault is localized to the solenoid relay or the bendix does not engage the flywheel. Note that in the case of Bendix, a more characteristic sign is that the starter crunches and does not turn the engine. Another common sign of a bad starter is that the starter buzzes but does not turn the engine.

To check the traction relay, voltage must be supplied from the battery to the power terminal of the relay. If the engine starts to turn over, then the retractor starter is obviously faulty. A frequent breakdown is the burning of the contacts. To eliminate it, you will need to remove the relay to clean the nickels. After cleaning, you must still be prepared to quickly replace the traction relay, since in the factory the contact pads are covered with special protection that resists burning during operation. Stripping will mean that the specified layer is removed, as a result of which it is difficult to predict the moment when the retractor coins will burn again.

Now let's turn our attention to the starter bendix. Bendix is a gear through which torque from the starter motor is transmitted to the flywheel

The Bendix is mounted on a single shaft with the starter rotor. To better understand, it is necessary to understand how a starter works. The principle of operation is that after turning the ignition key to the “start” position, current is supplied to the solenoid relay. The retractor transmits voltage to the starter winding, resulting in the engagement of the bendix (gear) with the flywheel ring gear (flywheel ring gear). In other words, two gears are combined to transmit the starter torque to the flywheel.

Wear of the Bendix gear means that there is no normal connection with the flywheel ring. For this reason, a cracking sound may be heard when starting the engine, and the starter may spin freely without engaging and buzzing. A similar situation arises if the teeth of the flywheel rim are heavily worn. The repair involves disassembling the starter to replace the bendix and/or removing the transmission to replace the flywheel. To check the bendix yourself, you will need to close two power contacts on the traction relay. The electric current will bypass the relay, which will determine the rotation of the starter. If the starter rotates easily and hums, you should check the quality of engagement of the bendix with the flywheel.

Replacing the flywheel crown

Please note that if the starter spins but does not turn the engine, and the reason is in the crown, then not all of its teeth will be destroyed. Most of it will be in perfect condition, but a small section will be damaged. The thing is that the crankshaft stops in one position relative to the starter. And it is here that the engagement begins - the impact of the Bendix gear on the crown.

Crown repair can be completely free. It would be quite reasonable to remove it and install it backwards. This element is completely symmetrical, so no problems will arise. A new one costs about 200-250 rubles, which also won’t hurt your pocket. First you need to knock it off the flywheel. Then the crown (new or the same) warms up. Red-hot is not necessary. And it is simply applied to the flywheel. That's all, now the metal cools down and the crown firmly clamps the flywheel. At this point, you can complete the repairs and begin assembling the car.

The starter clicks but does not turn, what is the reason?

Good afternoon. Many car enthusiasts are familiar with the situation when the starter clicks but does not turn. As luck would have it, such situations happen at the most inconvenient moments, for example, at gas stations or when leaving for work.

In today's article, we will tell you how to determine the malfunction and, if possible, start the car to get to the repair site.

Before telling the troubleshooting algorithm, let's look at the starter device. For clarity, watch this video:

As you can see, the starter is a regular DC motor and relay. When you turn the key in the ignition and hear a click, it is the solenoid relay that clicks (the coil and contacts at the top of the screen in the video). If the starter does not rotate, but clicks, the following options are possible:

The battery is dead.
starter relay failed
The contact coins in the solenoid relay are burnt.
The starter brushes are worn.
the starter armature is jammed.
power plus is not supplied to the starter (because if there is no mass there will not even be retractor clicks)

Below we will analyze each of these faults in detail, and tell you which faults will allow you to start the car on the spot, using the existing starter, in order to get to the service station.

A severely discharged battery is the most common cause of clicking noises when turning the ignition key.

The error looks like this:

In our video you can see that when starting, at first, the starter barely turns the engine, and then it just crackles…. If the battery is severely discharged, the starter will not even try to crank the engine but will immediately make nasty clicking noises.

The fact is that the battery voltage is not enough even to operate the solenoid relay!

Options to solve the problem:

light a cigarette from another car (we have a separate article about this on our website).
start the car from a pusher/tug (if it has a manual transmission).
remove and charge the battery.

If the starter does not click or turn, what should the owner of a VAZ-2106 do in such a situation?

There can be many reasons for this problem. The simplest and most common is a battery that is grounded to zero. Recognizing the source of the problem in this case is not difficult. You just need to turn on the headlights. If they do not light up, it means the battery is completely discharged. In this case, you can start it “from the pusher” or ask your neighbors in the garage for a “light.” By the way, the headlights can shine at full intensity. That is, the battery is not completely dead, but the starter does not have enough energy. In this case, the retractor, if everything is in order with it, will make itself felt with a click.

If the battery is charged normally, then you need to continue searching for the source of the problem. We check the integrity of the fuses. If everything is in order here, we look further. By the way, the fault may well be in the ignition switch itself. To check this version, you should carry out a simple manipulation. In particular, you need to try to start the car directly by connecting the necessary wires to each other. If after such manipulation the starter comes to life, it means that the problem is really in the lock, and it should be replaced.

Next, carefully inspect the wiring for breaks. If everything is in order here, then we continue the search. The absence of clicks from the solenoid relay may indicate:

contact between the rotor “mass” and the positive charge of the stator;
jammed bushing or shaft of the electric motor.

Without removing the starter, it will not be possible to determine the exact cause. It is quite possible that the absence of clicks is due to the short circuit of the rotor or stator winding. To understand the reason, in any case, you will need to remove the starter and disassemble it.

After this, carefully inspect the retractor terminals. It is likely that they need cleaning (or replacement) after which the problem disappears. If this procedure does not help, check the relay winding. The presence of a malfunction will be indicated to you by a characteristic burning smell. The problem can also be caused by a loose fit between the brushes and the commutator, or too much wear on the commutator. It is quite possible that you just need to replace the retractor.

One point is worth noting - if you have already disassembled the starter, found a specific malfunction, and fixed it, then still conduct a visual inspection of the entire device. This kind of preventive maintenance is extremely useful in preventing future malfunctions. If you see that a part is clearly reaching the end of its service life, replace it immediately. This will eliminate the need to disassemble the starter again after some time. That is, in this case you are doing a kind of prevention.

In conclusion, I would like to note one more point. There are often situations when the retractor clicks, but the starter still does not start the engine. There are many more possible reasons here. However, it also happens that after turning the key there is no reaction at all. Let us list once again all the most typical causes of this problem, both with and without retractor clicks:

discharged battery;
loosening the tightening of the tips;
mass short circuit;
oxidation of terminals or terminals on the battery;
brushes worn out or stuck;
burnt out collector;
slipping of the freewheel;
damage to gear teeth;
bushings that have exhausted their service life;
egnition lock;
relay malfunction.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=_JcRf4xWs_E

Why does the VAZ 2109 starter not turn?

The first thing you need to pay attention to if the engine does not start is whether the starter is turning the engine crankshaft. Naturally, if the starter does not turn the crankshaft, the car can only be started with a pushrod

Since the starter's job is to turn the crankshaft until a spark catches the engine.

Starter VAZ 2109

To begin discussing possible malfunctions of why the starter does not turn, let's pay attention to what happens when you turn the ignition key to the starter position: 1) A single click is heard. 2) Multiple clicks are heard

3) Nothing is heard 1) The reason for the single click when turning the ignition key is either the ignition relay or the VAZ 2109 starter solenoid relay.

Starter solenoid relay

It is necessary to check all connectors on the starter itself and the solenoid relay. If this clicks the starter solenoid relay, then we check the following things: a) The starter brushes are worn out b) Burnt contacts on the solenoid relay c) The fork that pushes the starter bendix could be broken

Attaching the starter to the gearbox

d) The starter cannot turn the crankshaft for some reason. For example, after the timing belt breaks, the piston rests against a valve that is not retracted. 2) If multiple clicks are heard, they mean that the voltage on the solenoid relay is not enough to turn it on. The reason for the low voltage at the starter solenoid relay may be: a) Dead battery b) Poor contact at the battery terminals. 3) If you don't hear anything when you turn the ignition key, see if the instrument panel lights up. Maybe a mass has just fallen off the battery. If the instrument panel lights up, then the reasons that the starter does not turn are as follows: a) The contact group of the ignition switch has fallen apart

b) Ignition relay is faulty

Starter activation relay

c) Short circuit in the starter. If this malfunction occurs, the starter will begin to heat up and a characteristic smell and possibly smoke will appear.

Video.

Hello, dear car enthusiasts! All. But, especially car enthusiasts of VAZ models. VAZ starters, despite their reliability, durability and endurance, still fail sooner or later.

The average starter life is usually 5-6 years, which is half the life of the engine. And whether it’s a malfunction of the VAZ 21093, VAZ 2109 or 21099 starter, the problem will still have to be solved by diagnosing, repairing, and possibly even replacing this electrical component.

Since the VAZ starter design differs only slightly, we will take into consideration the situation when the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn.

After turning the key in the ignition, you may find that:

VAZ 2109,21099 starter does not work after a single click;
The VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after a whole “trill” of frequent successive clicks;
The starter response to turning the key is completely absent.

What to do if the starter does not work? Of course, look for the cause of this phenomenon and try to eliminate it.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after one click

Reasons why the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn,

after a single click, there may be several.

Perhaps the power bolts on the . This defect leads to the fact that from the supplied 12V, only about 6-7V reaches the starter.

The fork that pushes out the starter bendix may be bent, broken, or otherwise deformed. In this situation, the bendix does not fully fit the flywheel; the cores only partially enter the coil, preventing the contacts from closing.

The teeth on the Bendix sprocket have worn out. Because of this, the solenoid relay cannot transmit voltage to the starter.

Also, the cause of the phenomenon of “one click” of the starter may be either the order of the armature bushings or a short circuit in the winding.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after frequent clicks

A crackling noise from the starter in response to turning the key in the lock may indicate the need to check whether the terminals on it are oxidized or loose.

Repeated clicks are repeated due to the fact that the retracting winding retracts the core, and the holding winding cannot hold it and lets go. This can continue until the battery runs out completely.

The design of a car engine starter and its operating principle

The main components of the starter:

electric motor;
solenoid relay;
gear with bendix;

In a nutshell, it is installed on the engine crankshaft. When the starter is turned on, the starter gear meshes with the flywheel crown and the electric motor turns the crankshaft. After the engine starts, the starter overrunning clutch disengages the gear from the shaft when the engine speed exceeds the starter speed.

If we take a closer look at the starter, its electric motor consists of a housing, inside of which there is a stator and a rotor rotating in two bushings.
The brush assembly consists of three or four brushes, which are supplied with voltage from the battery. The brushes, in turn, connect to part of the rotor and supply voltage to it, causing the starter motor to rotate.
The gear and bendix, located on the rotor shaft, moving forward and backward along it, engage with the flywheel. The solenoid relay turns the electric starter into operation.

The principle of operation of the starter is as follows. The vehicle interior has an ignition switch that has several positions, including the “On” position and the “Start” position. When the key is turned in the ignition switch in the “Start” position, the current transmitted through the circuit from the battery is supplied to the starter solenoid relay.

The solenoid relay is an electromagnet with a coil and a core. The core, under the influence of the electromagnetic field, begins to move to the side, while the fork connecting the core and the bendix pushes the bendix and gear along the shaft forward to engage it with the flywheel.

The relay has two contacts, one of which is supplied with voltage from the battery, and the other is connected to the brushes of the electric motor. When the core reaches the end of the relay, with the gears already engaged with the flywheel, the copper plate located at the end of the core closes these two contacts and voltage flows to the electric motor.

As for the types of starters, there are:

A starter with a gearbox, which consists of several gears and is mounted directly to its housing. The electric motor of such starters is highly efficient and consumes much less current when starting the engine. It is installed on cars with and on gasoline cars with more powerful engines.
A starter without a gearbox, having high resistance to loads, ensures quick starting of the motor due to instant connection with the flywheel crown after current is applied.

In this case, starters may differ from each other, but not significantly. In most cases, their difference lies in the mechanics of automatic gear disengagement.

It usually takes a few seconds for the engine to start. But in practice, malfunctions may occur when, after starting the engine, the starter spins along with the engine, etc.

Connection diagram

Now let's talk about how to connect the starter to the car's electrical network. Let's look at the connection diagram somewhat simplified.

Since the electric starter motor of the VAZ 2114 and other cars is a power motor, a significant amount of energy is consumed, which is supplied from the battery. Essentially, the device is the main consumer.

And to ensure maximum energy output, the battery and starter are connected directly to each other by a “positive” wire of a large cross-section.

This wire goes from the battery terminal to one of the solenoid relay terminals.

The second terminal of this relay is connected to the electric motor. To ensure that the electric motor runs only when needed, there is an open circuit between these terminals.

There is also another “positive” wire in the circuit, which goes from the battery to the ignition switch and is intended to power the auxiliary relay itself. Additionally, the circuit includes a mounting block and fuses.

Knowing the connection diagram, you can understand how everything works. By turning the key to the “start” position, the driver closes the relay power circuit and voltage is applied to its winding, resulting in the formation of a magnetic field that acts on the armature.

That, in turn, after moving, eliminates the circuit break between the relay contacts, and the energy is supplied to the electric motor.

Starter malfunction

If, when starting the engine, the starter makes one loud click and nothing else happens, in 100% of cases this is caused by problems in the module itself. One click indicates that charge is reaching the starter as the relay clicks. In this case, failure of the relay is excluded. The cause of the problem with the functioning of this module may be an unstable charge that reaches it. In this case, you should try to start the engine again, and repeat attempts at intervals of 20 seconds. Perhaps on the 2nd or 3rd try you will be able to start the car. If the engine still does not start, investigate the following potential causes of the problem:

the starter bendix has failed;
the retractor is broken;
the main winding of the starter is broken;
winding short circuit;
brushes and bushings are worn out.

In the latter case, it is only necessary to replace the failed components.

In any case, regardless of the reason why this problem occurred, the first step is to inspect and check all contacts visible from the outside. Often the starter stops performing its functions normally due to weak contact in one or another node. An unstable charge is also a fairly common cause. In this case, you just need to repeat the attempt to start the engine several times. Most likely, after two or three attempts you will be able to start the engine, and a similar situation will not repeat during subsequent starts.

Even if you eventually managed to start the engine after some attempt, you should not consider the problem solved. Otherwise, at some point the car will simply stop starting and you will have to look for alternative ways to start the engine. You should not solve the problem by replacing the starter.

A car has long ceased to be a luxury. It’s hard to imagine life without a car these days. Many people drive a car every day and for any need - to work, study, dacha, shopping, on vacation. And that's why it becomes very bad when the car won't start. Plans are ruined, meetings are cancelled, people lose money!

We will look at situations where the starter works, but the car still does not start, another time. And now - about what to do if the starter on a Priora does not turn.

First, let's understand how a starter works and what its structure is. An electric motor with a gear that meshes with the engine flywheel and turns it when started. All this is hidden in a housing on which the solenoid relay is mounted. It is designed to move the gear and supply power to the electric motor.

When you turn the ignition key, current is supplied to the relay. Using an electromagnet, it is retracted, using a special mechanism, it moves the gear and starts the engine by closing the contacts. When the key is released, power stops being supplied to the magnet of the solenoid relay, the relay operates in the other direction and the contacts open. So, we know what the principle of operation of the starter looks like in general terms, so now it will be easier for us to understand why the starter does not turn on the Priora.

If you hear clicking sounds when you turn the ignition key and the lights on the instrument panel go out, it may be the battery. It needs to be checked, recharged, topped up with electrolyte or replaced. Is the battery OK? Then the situation becomes more interesting. Check the wires that come from the battery. If they get hot, check their contact with the battery. Remove them from the terminals, clean them, lubricate them (sometimes oxidation occurs) and install them back.

Check the connection between the ground terminal and the body. If necessary, clean this connection. Check the connection between the plus terminal and the starter. Determine if power is supplied to the solenoid relay from the ignition switch. To do this, you need to disconnect the connector from the relay, and turn the ignition key “to start” and measure the voltage at the connector.

The Priora starter still won't turn? Then you will have to remove it from the car and check it.

The removal procedure looks like this: disconnect the battery terminals, unscrew and remove the air filter, unscrew and remove the positive wire from the starter. Then disconnect the connector from the relay, unscrew the starter mounting nuts and remove it. We are already much closer to solving the question of why the Priora’s starter does not turn. Now we take the wires for lighting (crocodiles) and connect them with the negative wire of the battery and the starter housing. We connect the positive one to the relay connector, after which the gear should be activated and ejected forward. If not, change the retractor.

You can hook the negative wire to the starter housing, and the positive wire to the lower terminal of the solenoid relay. The electric motor didn't work? The culprit is most likely the motor brushes.

If the battery is dead

But you can consider the option of a seated battery, no contact at the terminals, no contact on the ground wire, which is attached to the car body. It’s easy to check the battery - remove the negative terminal, measure the voltage and, if it is less than nine volts, put the battery on charge and go to work on public transport.

Video about the causes of starter malfunction

If the battery is charged, then we check the terminal contacts, but the most insidious contact is the negative wires from the battery to the car body. It has one nasty property. The contact may appear and disappear, so you need to completely unscrew it, clean it, reassemble it, and try again. If the attempt fails, we move on.

It happens that the solenoid relay clicks, but the engine refuses to crank, and this is also the fault of the battery, but at the same time the indicator lamps on the instrument panel dim or go out completely. In this case, and in the case when the starter does not click and does not scroll, we place all the blame on the battery, charge it, but now we need to think about what led to the complete discharge of the battery. Even if we charge the battery today, there is no guarantee that it will not run out tomorrow.

How to fix starter malfunctions with your own hands

The electrical component of the starter consists of the following structural elements:

winding;
brush assembly;
solenoid relay.

When checking the solenoid relay, skip the starter operation, bypassing its switching. The relay has 3 terminals at once, one of which is the control terminal. The remaining 2 large terminals, located at the input to the battery and at the output of the starter, are closed using a screwdriver or wrench. Closing for a short period of time is enough, the main thing is that the tool you are using does not touch the metal body directly under the hood.

Remember that starting the engine in this way is prohibited, because the main gear of the device does not engage.

Most likely, the contact planes on the inner plane simply burned out, and therefore a dielectric layer of metal oxides formed on top. To burn the contacts, there is no need to make great efforts; just one start of the VAZ-2109 engine is enough.

There are 2 ways to repair the VAZ-2109 solenoid relay:

Dismantle the device and disassemble it into components, clean the contacts.
If it is financially possible, it is better to replace the relay completely. Practice shows that if a relay fails, the contacts will have to be cleaned more and more often to restore its operation. If you want the repaired relay to last a long time, give preference to this option for repairing the starter if the device does not spin or click.

The fact is that in the units installed on the VAZ-2114, a layer of non-ferrous metal alloy is applied to the contact planes, which minimizes the risk of oxidation and erosion. When stripping, you remove this layer with your own hands, so it is not surprising when the part quickly fails again.

To repair the starter on a VAZ-2109, if it does not spin and the characteristic ignition click is not heard, you may need to check the condition of the brush assembly. Start disassembling the starter; if the brushes are worn out, the signs will be visible immediately. As for the combustion of the windings, this malfunction can be easily determined by the color and characteristic burning smell.

Solution

First you need to put your “nine” in neutral gear, and also turn on the parking brake.
After this, the hood opens, you need to find the red cable on the retractor.
Using a thick screwdriver, you need to short-circuit the terminals on this component. When a short circuit occurs, sparks may fly in different directions - there is no need to worry, this is a normal situation.
Then you need to try to start the engine. If you notice that the starter starts to work normally when screwing in, then the problem is not with it. If the device does not turn, then most likely it will need to be changed.
If the mechanism is working properly, the red wire from the solenoid relay must be removed, and voltage from the battery must be applied to this terminal. If there is a pop, the relay will be fully operational. If there was no clap, then most likely the reason lies precisely in the relay.
Check the contacts on the starter, it happens that due to oxidation it stops turning.

The starter does not turn over, what should I do?

In the life of owners of the VAZ-2114, and other cars close to this line (see above), sometimes such an unpleasant moment arises when you need to go somewhere, but it is not possible to start the power plant due to the fact that the starter does not turn the flywheel engine.

That is, when you turn the ignition key to the “start” position, nothing happens.

And if in the summer you can calmly look for the cause of the malfunction, then in the winter, in severe frost, you won’t spend much time searching for the malfunction. And in order to quickly fix a breakdown, you need to know where to look for it.

How to quickly start your car in cold weather, see below.