How to eliminate clicks and squeaks in the clutch pedal of the Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora » Lada.online - all the most interesting and useful about Lada cars

All the best to the house!

Recently, the creaking sound that appears when releasing the clutch has become very annoying.
Lubricating the pedal shaft did no good. And below I’ll tell you how to overcome this attack.
So first, an IMPORTANT warning.
Under no circumstances should you try to do it in accordance with the Murzilka "To make the operation easier, pull the clutch pedal firmly towards you.
So that the trailing edge of the pedal slightly deforms the thin sheet metal of the body panel. Use a screwdriver to pry up the locking bracket of the clutch pedal pin.” This operation is extremely unjustified, and will give nothing except damaged metal. So, to begin with, using an “8” wrench, unscrew the nut securing the cable sheath bracket to the pedal bracket and disengage it from the latter.

Next, the most interesting thing is to remove the clutch pedal pin retaining bracket. The photo shows its location.

This is what it looks like when taken from Murzilka.

Next, you need to remove the rubber clutch pedal damper to make it easier to remove the cable from the pedal assembly. This is what the ill-fated bushing and fixing bracket look like.

We generously lubricate everything we see, I personally used penetrating lubricant from LIQUI MOLY

I lubricated the pedal axle and bushing with ordinary lithol. Next we assemble in reverse order. The problem will still be with the same fixing plate. I offer a solution that I have personally verified. The essence is in the photo

Otherwise there are no problems. We assemble, remove excess lubricant, and enjoy the quiet operation of the clutch.

P.S. Some photos are taken from the public domain. All questions, wishes and comments in the comments. Cool salon everyone!

Many owners of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora notice the creaking of the clutch pedal. Moreover, this problem may arise after the first kilometers of driving. We will tell you about the possible causes of this disease, as well as ways to solve it.

How to stop squeaking when pressing the clutch?

Firmware for the radio of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora (luxury)
Often the cause of a squeak is a cable on which the lubricant has dried. If it is not old, there is no need to completely dismantle it. Just take a syringe and lubricate the cable from the hood and interior.

How to remove squeaking noise when pressing the clutch:

Push the nozzle of the lubricant bottle deep under the casing and inject the oil. After carrying out the manipulation, do not forget to treat the casing joint with a water-repellent agent to prevent water from entering.
Usually aerosols help little in such cases, since they do not completely penetrate under the casing. Two drops of oil will save the situation and eliminate the squeak. It is more difficult if the creaking does not occur in the pedal itself, but in the clutch mechanism.
Typically, this situation is often observed in VAZ cars, where the creaking is caused by the clutch fork and bushing. Lubrication in this area is very difficult due to limited access.

Control pedals

Creaks in the clutch mechanism

How to train the key of a Lada Priora, Kalina, Grant (activation of the standard immobilizer)

In cars of the VAZ family, the creaking of the clutch pedal can be caused by the clutch fork on the bushings in the crankcase

If everything is more or less clear with squeaks in the pedal block, then with squeaks and rattles in the clutch mechanism everything can be somewhat more complicated. On Grant, Kalina and similar cars, as well as VAZ 2108, 2109-2114, the clutch fork itself on the bushings in the crankcase can creak. The problem is that it is quite difficult to lubricate it without removing the clutch. And for this purpose, many people have WD in their trunk. But we are adults, and we don’t solve problems with half measures. Therefore, you need to try to lubricate it with oil, without removing the gearbox. Otherwise, such a lubricant is worthless. Although if you are not sure that it is the fork on the crankcase that is creaking, then disassembling the entire mechanism may well be required. Creaks don’t just appear and indicate either increased wear, a lack of lubrication, or both.

To lubricate the fork in front-wheel drive cars, you need to remove the rubber plug, if any, and use a syringe to apply lubricant to the clutch fork axle. Sometimes it may be necessary to drill out the housing where the axle is mounted. This way the lubricant will work more efficiently and accurately reach the fork axis.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=1YbOGBZgu1w

In the same mechanisms where the fork does not have an axle, but simply rests against the rod, as in the VAZ 2107, you just need to use a strong screwdriver or pry bar to move the fork to the side, and then lubricate the contact point of the fork with the rod with Litol. It's a two-minute job, but you'll have to crawl under the car. But nerves are more expensive. Therefore, do not be lazy, and your nerves will be stronger and the car will be quieter.

Video “How to properly remove the cable for replacement”

User Sergei Spiridonov created and posted a video on the Internet that shows the process of removing the cable in a Lada Priora car for its subsequent replacement.

No one will dispute the essential role of the friction clutch in the operation of a car transmission. The efficiency of using the traction of the power unit and even safety directly depend on the quality of the clutch. It is important for VAZ 2170 owners not only to replace the components for transmitting torque in a timely manner, but also to configure their control system extremely correctly.

Types of clutch drive

Adjusting the clutch of the fret grant

Regardless of what type of drive, what drives the clutch fork, almost every component or part can creak. It all depends on the technical condition and level of wear and tear of the drive mechanism. Most modern cars use a single-plate dry clutch. The mechanism itself consists of a clutch basket, which is rigidly fixed to the crankshaft flywheel. The torque of the motor is transmitted through the basket to the driven disk. The clutch disc is constantly pressed against the flywheel by a diaphragm spring or lever-spring mechanism. The pressure mechanism is acted upon by a release bearing, which, when transmitting force to the pedal, disengages the engine’s clutch with the driven disk and thereby separates the engine and gearbox.

The main source of annoying noise is the clutch drive. The drive can be mechanical or hydraulic. Mostly. There is also an electromagnetic drive, but it is installed extremely rarely and only when it is necessary to automate the clutch release. Most often on cars with manual gear shift. Hydraulic and mechanical drives are designed differently, but they creak the same way. The force from the pedal is transmitted to the clutch fork using a cable or hydraulic system.

Video tutorial on how the clutch works

Sometimes a vacuum booster is installed in the hydraulic drive. On inexpensive cars VAZ 2114, 2110, 2112, Daewoo Nexia, Lanos, Chevrolet Aveo and Lacetti, a mechanical cable mechanism is installed. Sometimes, to compensate for friction lining wear, a compensatory mechanism is used that does not require adjustment. This mechanism is installed on Lada Granta, Priora, Kalina, Kia Rio, Hyundai Accent. And for classic cars: VAZ 2101-2107, as well as some front-wheel drive: Volkswagen Polo sedan, Mitsubishi Lancer 9, Honda Civic 4D, Renault Logan, Sandero, Lada Largus, Mazda 6.

Troubleshooting Sensor Problems

This mechanism is installed only on the Lada Kalina clutch with an electronic gas pedal. Its function is to control engine modes when changing gears, starting to drive, etc. Sensor malfunctions are reflected on the engine controller as “error 0830”, and the Check Engine lamp lights up.

Physically, malfunctions are felt as jerking of the car when changing gears, when the engine is running at low speeds, or a sudden increase or decrease in engine speed when you press the pedal. It is impossible to adjust the clutch sensor on Kalina; it will have to be completely replaced.

This part is located above the pedal, under the steering column. When buying a new one, you should choose sensor 1118-3720015 (for Kalina, Priora, Grants). Replacing it is a little complicated by the inaccessibility of the 2 screws on which it is attached to the pedal bracket.

To remove the sensor, you need to pull the wire block holder out of the hole on the pedal bracket. Then disconnect it from the dashboard wiring harness. Use a screwdriver to remove the spring hook from the holder and unscrew the sensor mount on the pedal bracket (screws).

The clutch sensor is removed together with the holder, released and replaced. Reassemble in the reverse order, starting with attaching the sensor to the holder rods.

Adjusting the Lada Kalina clutch or replacing the sensor is not very difficult. When carrying out work, the engine must be turned off. If after adjustment measures extraneous noises and other malfunctions do not disappear, you should contact a car service for diagnostics and possible repairs with the replacement of clutch discs.

Advice!

The clutch pedal should be installed at the level of the other two, otherwise there is a chance that the reverse gear simply will not engage.

If all the manipulations to lubricate all rubbing parts and mechanisms did not help you, and the problem remains unresolved, then in such a situation the best option would be to contact a specialized service center for diagnostic analysis.

Because solving problems with the gearbox and clutch in advance can prevent you from unexpected breakdowns and further expensive repairs.

For lubricants in hard-to-reach areas, it is best to use WD-40 or a silicone lubricant in spray form. Thus, the material will be better distributed on the surface and will reach all places that are difficult to reach manually.
It is recommended to lubricate the clutch pedal and fork cable fastenings with graphite lubricant, which has a beneficial effect on such mechanisms and holds well on devices subject to constant load.

The essence of the problem

Everyone decides to fight this scourge on their own, using their own resources (using the “scientific” method) or uses the advice of experienced “logan breeders” who have conquered this terrible “melody”. In this article you will learn about where this squeak comes from and how to cure it with your own hands.

We are looking for the cause

In fact, based on the design of the Renault Logan clutch, creaking can come from anything, from the bolt securing the pedal together with the spring, to the clutch basket with the release bearing. Such problems begin to appear from least to greatest after only kilometers of driving.

We are looking for a solution

Replace the clutch cable if it shows signs of mechanical stress and damage.

If the car's mileage is not too high and there are no problems with the clutch, first of all, pay attention to the condition of the transmission pedal cable. Visual damage, tears and corrosion are the determining indicators for its replacement.

This spring needs to be lubricated first.

If the cable is intact, then it is recommended to treat all rubbing surfaces (including the pedal spring) with silicone grease or WD-40. If such manipulations do not solve the problem, then it is necessary to look for it through the engine compartment, removing that same cable and replacing it with a new one. If this does not help, then the clutch assembly will need to be replaced.

PS

Remember that during operation, during operation, it is not the clutch cable itself that fails, but its casing, which wears out much faster. Therefore, when buying new parts, choose the highest quality of all.

In what cases is it recommended to contact a service station?

Unfortunately, not only squeaking occurs, but also serious problems, among which the most unpleasant and difficult to fix is clutch slipping, which is not uncommon for this model. In such a situation, the only way out would be a visit to the service station. On average, a clutch kit will cost 5 thousand rubles, plus 1-2 thousand rubles. – installation fee.

A visit to a service station can be avoided if you properly care for the transmission and follow the recommendations of experts:

If possible, do not overstress the clutch. Try to move off gently at a low crankshaft speed (watch the tachometer readings). Otherwise, due to natural inertia, slippage with accelerated wear will occur.
Do not release the pedal too slowly, as if on a truck: do not be afraid - the car will not stall. Modern cars with synchronizer are equipped with systems that do not involve, for example, double squeezing with re-throttle. In general, feel free to take your foot off the pedal. What was useful in Soviet times is now harmful, and light pressure leads to unwanted slippage and a reduction in resource.
Do not tow other vehicles when driving uphill. This is especially harmful on slippery, uneven roads.
Do not hold the clutch in the depressed position, but remove your foot from the pedal, placing the lever in neutral. This loads the box, but spares the clutch.

Thus, how long the clutch will last and how often it will be disturbed during operation depends only on you. Remember: any malfunction can be easily fixed in a timely manner. And if you don’t have the appropriate skills, it’s better not to get down to business, but entrust the responsible mission to professionals.

Why does a squeak occur when the clutch is released?

Very often, along with a squeak, other problems associated with the clutch pedal may arise. Basically, the pedal can be hard to move and is pressed jerkily.

Why does a squeak occur when releasing the clutch:

In this case, it is necessary to urgently undergo diagnostics, since with further operation of the car, the fork or the cable that connects the clutch pedal to the car parts under the hood may break.
Most often, the squeak appears when the clutch pedal is released, that is, at moments when there is no pressure on it. When all the mechanisms are under pressure, they work more smoothly. As soon as the pressure decreases, a squeak occurs.
There are several options to solve the problem. Of course, it is best to remove the pedal, disassemble it and lubricate all the components. However, this manipulation takes a lot of time; even experienced car enthusiasts can do the job for half a day.

Adjustment

Why might the clutch squeak?

The creaking of the clutch pedal can be figuratively divided into two types:

The so-called light squeak. Such a squeak does not affect the pedal in any way, and absolutely does not affect its operation in any way. Rather, this unpleasant sound begins to irritate the driver, creating uncomfortable conditions for operating the car and causing a great desire to end it as quickly as possible. Very often it can occur when the air temperature outside is close to zero or below zero (typical of winter). As a rule, in these weather conditions it is extremely difficult to get rid of it, since it can appear again and again. It disappears on its own when the car warms up a little and the clutch eventually develops and returns to normal.
A hard or, as it is also called, a heavy squeak is a clear signal that it is necessary to diagnose the system, since the appearance of this heavy sound implies a real threat of failure of any of the parts closely associated with this pedal. You can also notice non-standard behavior of the pedal: it may be stiff or jerky. This is a rather serious problem that requires urgent repair, otherwise it will lead to a malfunction of the fork or a broken cable.

So, let's figure out why the clutch pedal squeaks.

One of the common causes of noise coming from the pedal is the plastic transmission bushing. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the bushing touches the bracket, resulting in some friction between the two elements, and this interaction produces an unpleasant sound.

Clutch pedal creaking can also occur in another situation, for example, there is no lubricant in the box on the input shaft. The sound in this case appears during operation of the pedal, in the place where the pressure bearing is located. During operation, the fork presses on this bearing, which in turn interacts with the clutch disc. From such an impact, the sound will undoubtedly make itself felt and, as a rule, a sharp desire to get rid of it.

The creaking of the clutch pedal can also be heard from the engine compartment. In this case, the reason may also be the lack of lubricant on their surface.

In very rare cases, the squeak may come from the pressure finger. In this case, no diagnostics or lubrication will help, since such an element cannot be repaired, but requires replacement. But do not forget to lubricate the new part well before installation.

Solution

In almost all cases, the problem of a squeaking clutch pedal can be eliminated with the help of lubricant. To do this, you need to lubricate all intensively rubbing parts.

Experts recommend using thick grease (CV joint or something like that) as a lubricant. If the car was designed in such a way that it is impossible to get to the pedal elements or spring, do not despair - there is a way out. Use a slotted screwdriver for this. Apply a little lubricant to its metal part, after which you can reach the necessary places with a screwdriver.

There is also a possibility that the squeak does not come from the pedal, but from the clutch fork. During operation, it serves as a place for dirt and used lubricant to accumulate. Because of this, this unpleasant sound appears.

In order to eliminate squeaking in the clutch fork, it must be washed from dirt. Naturally, it is very difficult to reach it, so this must be done through the engine compartment. To clean, you can use carburetor cleaner - it will do the job perfectly. Once you have removed all the accumulated dirt, apply a coat of thick lubricant to the fork.

Other possible squeaks

In addition to the clutch pedal, the reasons for the appearance of squeaks we have already figured out, the reason may lie elsewhere. For example, if the clutch mechanism uses a cable drive, then it is often the cause of unpleasant sounds. If this is the case, simply changing the lubricant will not help solve the problem. To do this, it is necessary to replace the clutch cable.

If you hear a squeak somewhere from the engine, this indicates a faulty release bearing. To fix this problem, you will most likely need to replace the release bearing.

The clutch pedal may make peculiar noises due to the clutch actuator. This is due to the fact that all the work of the clutch is mechanical friction of the working parts. Naturally, the appearance of noise cannot be avoided. In order to get rid of annoying sounds, you will need to periodically lubricate the rubbing parts. Because you will not be able to control a constant level of lubrication - everything is washed off during operation.

There is a more difficult way out of this situation. Using a skilled turner, turn the bushing between the rubbing parts from a softer metal or polycarbonate. In this case, the occurrence of unpleasant sounds will stop, because the friction of different materials will not create such noise as two materials of the same density and structure create.

First, make sure your car's clutch is adjusted correctly. While holding the clutch cable end in an extended position, measure the size between the fork and the driver, it should be 27 mm. How to adjust the clutch cable is shown in the video:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=vYme_hsn6nM%23t%3D210

About 11% claim that the causes of clutch squeaking were in the clutch cable

Pay attention to the presence of a spring in the tension mechanism; Lada Kalina 2 and Lada Granta may not have it. It is worth noting that this spring is present on the clutch cable of the Lada Priora and the owners of these cars practically do not encounter a squeaking clutch pedal

If there is no spring, then it should be installed. Also, it would be a good idea to lubricate the clutch cable using a thin tube, or, if suitable, install a clutch cable from Lada Priora (catalog number: 21700-1602210).

Even less often (about 4% of owners) they solved the problem of a squeaking clutch pedal by lubricating the tip of the clutch cable. Apply lithol to the contact point between the plastic cable nut (No. 2) and the clutch fork (No. 1).

And about 3% of owners solved the problem with the help of lubricant (graphite) of the gearbox input shaft. To do this, you will have to remove the boot from the clutch fork lever (No. 6), and then lubricate it by inserting a tube from a lubricant can into the hole.

Most often (in 24% of cases), the creaking comes from the plastic pedal bushing, which rubs against the bracket. In this case, you should simply lubricate the rubbing areas with lithol.

In conclusion, I would like to note that it is better to start diagnosing a malfunction by determining the source (direction) of extraneous noise. Then you won't have to do extra work. Let us remind you that knocking noises on Lada cars can also come from the steering rack.

Engaging and disengaging a working clutch occurs silently. If squeaks and noises appear, it’s time for you to have the part diagnosed.

Lada Kalina sedan 2009, engine Gasoline 1.6 liter., 84 hp, Front drive, Manual — tuning

Comments 15

There are clicks on the new viburnum too. This is normal, since this indicates that the mechanism for adjusting the length of the cable is activated (1 - bushing; 2 - leash; 3 - toothed (upper) cable tip; 4 - cable tip clamps; 5 - bracket (with limiter). Manual: yadi .sk/i/T39rNo48bhgn5, page 90-92. On page 92, pay attention to: "Pulling the tip, stretch the clutch cable as much as possible and use a caliper to measure the distance between the driver and the fork lever. If the distance is not equal to 27 mm, turn the driver along the thread on the end of the cable, achieving the recommended value.”

I did everything exactly the same) my friend’s Kalina 2 also clicks, but it annoys me

Well, at least withstand the tension of 27 mm. Write a letter to AvtoVAZ - I wonder why they didn’t leave it like on the 2110 and put in a mechanism for adjusting the length of the cable - this is not economical on their part)))?

I’m not a fool, I stood it) MB it was a cable issue, who knows, it doesn’t matter) Well, in foreign cars this mechanism works great) but ours somehow didn’t hold up

I remember driving to work. The clutch cable broke. I put it in 2nd gear and started the internal combustion engine, got there in 2nd gear, put in a new cable, and it also clicks. Colleagues also click on grate-sport.

I changed it after denver02, because I also encountered this problem, not only were there clicks, there were also creaks, although they removed the cable, and poured oil into it, and sprayed silicone on the clutch fork, it helped, but for a couple of weeks, then everything again , I installed a cable from 10 with a minimum of modifications and everything is quiet and comfortable, and by the way, regarding the rigidity of pressing, again lubricate the fork and the cable itself and everything will be easy to press! They changed it for me at the service center because I’m dragging myself around during the replacement process and there’s no garage; it’s not on the street to change it! I paid 500 rubles for everything including installation and finishing touches.

Source

Clutch pedal mechanism

Often squeaks appear as a result of wear and tear on the pedal mounting mechanism itself. The return mechanism may also make noise. These problems occur in both mechanically and hydraulically driven vehicles. The creaking mainly occurs when the pedal is released, when some parts of the mechanism are released from the load. In principle, knowing exactly how the clutch pedal is attached in a particular car, it is not difficult to troubleshoot the problem. Only mechanical connections and the return spring can creak in the pedal assembly when pressed. The problem in most cars is one - how to get to the pedal block. In cars with a large interior, this is a little easier, but try turning around in Kalina or Daewoo Matiz.

The clutch pedal may squeak due to wear on the pedal mounting mechanism.

As a rule, the pedals in all cars are suspended on a bracket and fixed to an axle, and easy pedal travel is ensured by plastic bushings through which the pedal is mounted on the axle. In principle, the bushings are not lubricated, but only replaced when they are severely worn. But they can creak regardless of their service life. To eliminate squeaks, it is best to unharness the spring and remove the entire pedal block. At the same time, you can lubricate the brake pedal. The problem is that this operation is labor-intensive and takes half a day. First, you should try to drip motor oil into the bushings from a syringe. This is much easier to do than lubricating the pedal unit when completely dismantling it.

If the creaking of the bushings does not disappear, then you need to get to the return spring. It can creak on its own or touch the metal bracket, as on the Polo Sedan or Grant. The spring should not be lubricated with engine oil, as this will only lead to a dirty interior. Magic products like WD40 can solve the problem for a couple of days and nothing more. Therefore, in such cases it is necessary to use lubricant for CV joints. That's what it's called. Lubricant is sold in tubes or jars, but in this case it is much more convenient to use a tube. The creaking is removed by 99%.

Design, adjustment, configuration and replacement of the Lada Priora clutch

The content of the article:

Lada clutch device

From "Murzilka". The connection is made through a special ratchet mechanism that regulates the length of the cable. Therefore, during the operation of the vehicle, it is not necessary to regularly check and adjust the working stroke of the clutch pedal. This mechanism also ensures that there is no play in the clutch release drive.

During operation, the driven disk linings wear out. To compensate for this wear, an automatic cable length adjustment mechanism is built into the clutch release drive. As the linings wear, the clutch release fork lever turns and tightens the cable. At the same time, the spring located in the bushing of the adjustment mechanism is compressed and tightens the clamps of the toothed tip of the cable. The clamps release the tip, as a result of which it is freely pulled out of the cable leader, compensating for wear on the disc linings.

If the driven disk linings are not worn out, then when the pedal is released, the bushing only touches the bracket and does not release the clamps - the toothed tip of the cable does not move relative to the body. As the linings wear, the clutch release fork lever with the threaded end of the cable moves forward (in the direction of the vehicle), tensioning the cable. In this case, the spacer sleeve, resting against the bracket, releases the spring-loaded clamps and the toothed tip of the cable moves out of the housing by the amount necessary to compensate for the wear of the linings.

After installing the cable, we adjust the clutch drive. To do this, pull the cable forward by the threaded end until it stops, overcoming the force of the spring, and hold the cable in this position. Using a caliper we measure the distance from the end of the plastic leash to the clutch release fork lever, which should be 27 mm. If necessary, rotate the leash to achieve the required distance. When removing the load (releasing the cable), the leash should adhere to the fork lever without play. After this, press the clutch pedal three times to activate the automatic cable length adjustment mechanism. We check the full travel of the clutch pedal, which should not exceed 146 mm.

Adjusting the clutch of Lada Priora

It started to smell like the clutch periodically. I decided to tighten it up, opened the Murzilka and was surprised that it was so easy to do this on a Priora. I waited until the weekend, took a regular screwdriver and a ruler.

Turn off the mass air flow sensor and remove the air filter.

We see a cable and a plastic clip at the end.

We pull this clamp towards ourselves,

measure how many mm from the end of the plastic clamp to the plug (should be 27mm). I had 15mm.

We twist this clamp counterclockwise,

thereby increasing the size from plug to clamp. We measure, it should be 27mm, if so, then release the cable and put it in the fork. We get into the car, press the clutch 3 times, go back and look, measure how much it has become, if everything is the same 25-27mm, then everything is done, if more or less, we adjust further. In the end, we put everything back together, start it, and check it. Personally, the smell immediately disappeared for me, which means the clutch will still live.

Replacing the clutch in Lada Priora

2 months ago the clutch began to act up (it became harder to press, some clicks appeared when pressed) and the release bearing began to rattle. While I was driving, I thought it would pass, but the clutch release rattled louder and louder, and the clutch began to work even worse. I consulted with friends, they said go buy a new clutch, your release lever will soon fall apart, and it’s better to change the entire clutch right away, since there are many difficulties. I went to the store and consulted with the salesman about which clutch was best to buy, the salesman advised to take the KRAFT or VIS company, but said that they charge more for KRAFT than VIS, so I had to take KRAFT, the price is 1800 rubles. Just 3 weeks ago the clutch disappeared and the speed stopped turning on. I immediately drove it into my uncle’s garage and slowly began to disassemble everything with him.